Hull Question

[scoota]

Hi guys, i ordered a new UL1 today from OSE , just want to know will it be the updated hull without all the problems i have been reading obout ?

Cheers jason ...

[JimClark]

You should ask Steve that he knows when he got the current stock

[detox]

Hi guys, i ordered a new UL1 today from OSE , just want to know will it be the updated hull without all the problems i have been reading obout ?

Cheers jason ...

Yes it is the updated hull...turn fin area has been strengthened to prevent cracking. Although the same old cheap esc will easily pop a cap if not careful. I added two extra caps to minimize this problem. Other than the caps failing this is a verycool boat...go UL-1's.


...

[scoota]

thanks guys i have been putting off buying the UL-1 cause of the hull defects , i have 2 new 120 hydras sitting around so i might use 1 in the UL1 .

Cheers jason

[Grimracer]

Scoota!

If Steven has current stock.. they need no updating..

Just so you know.. the ESC has not changed.. Its a good idea to update the cap but truth is if you run reasonable props and or keep the boat out of the weeds it will likely be fine.

IF.. you see silicone around the water cooling jacket go ahead and call Hobby Services for the new end cap and o rings.. We have a few motors out here with this fix.. not that many but if you get one go ahead and make the call.. ask for Jack or Lisa.

Keep us posted!

ROCK ON!

Grim

[MarkJnK]

Scoota!

If Steven has current stock.. they need no updating..

Just so you know.. the ESC has not changed.. Its a good idea to update the cap but truth is if you run reasonable props and or keep the boat out of the weeds it will likely be fine.

IF.. you see silicone around the water cooling jacket go ahead and call Hobby Services for the new end cap and o rings.. We have a few motors out here with this fix.. not that many but if you get one go ahead and make the call.. ask for Jack or Lisa.

Keep us posted!

ROCK ON!

Grim

Is there any way to tell by looking at the outside of the hull whether it is one of the newer versions? Is the fin bracket the same or has the footprint been enlarged?

[TCR]

Scoota!

If Steven has current stock.. they need no updating..

Just so you know.. the ESC has not changed.. Its a good idea to update the cap but truth is if you run reasonable props and or keep the boat out of the weeds it will likely be fine.

IF.. you see silicone around the water cooling jacket go ahead and call Hobby Services for the new end cap and o rings.. We have a few motors out here with this fix.. not that many but if you get one go ahead and make the call.. ask for Jack or Lisa.

Keep us posted!

ROCK ON!

Grim

FYI, I've burned up 2 ESCs w/ Aquacraft "Grimracer" recommended props and no weeds. That ESC is junk, let's be honest and up front for once. The UL-1 is the best or most fun of all RTRs, but it has alot of QUALITY weaknesses that could be avoided w/ a little QC and maybe an additional $10 in manufacturing funds.

[Chuck E Cheese]

just so you guys know i have been using that motor and esc in a different hull (mini mogli and spec delta 26") for about 6 months and have no issues. dont over prop and you wont hear the pop.... it makes a great esc with the SV and ammo motor as well... i own 3 and have burned zero

[MarkJnK]

From what I have been able to understand, the ESC issues stem from overpropping or running near the limit (40x57/3 is near the limit) and the culprit is the capacitor. Adding a second cap seems to eliminate many of the issues.

[TCR]

From what I have been able to understand, the ESC issues stem from overpropping or running near the limit (40x57/3 is near the limit) and the culprit is the capacitor. Adding a second cap seems to eliminate many of the issues.

I burned up 2 ESCs w/ a 40x52/3, closest metal prop to stock. The ESC is not dependable; howabout we quit BSing ourselves.

[MarkJnK]

I burned up 2 ESCs w/ a 40x52/3, closest metal prop to stock. The ESC is not dependable; howabout we quit BSing ourselves.

When you say burned up... what does that mean? Blown Cap or something else? Hmmm, thats not good, thats the prop I'll be using. I'll be adding an extra cap or two.

[JimClark]

There is also more that can cause problems besides the prop that can cause higher amp loads. Such as the setup of the boat, friction in the drive system, timing of the motor.

Jim


I burned up 2 ESCs w/ a 40x52/3, closest metal prop to stock. The ESC is not dependable; howabout we quit BSing ourselves.

[detox]

There is also more that can cause problems besides the prop that can cause higher amp loads. Such as the setup of the boat, friction in the drive system, timing of the motor.

Jim

Rough water will cause the amps to spike as the prop bounces in and out of water...prop turning loose then catching water over and over again. These amp spikes will pop a cap.

[JimClark]

My point is that to say in a general statement that an ESC crap without backing it up with how the boat was set up and looking at all the possible cause's does not help new people at all in solving their problems. There are lots of guy's running them hard here in the Seattle area and not having problems but they are set up properly for racing and running very free.

Jim



Rough water will cause the amps to spike as the prop bounces in and out of water...prop turning loose then catching water over and over again. These amp spikes will pop a cap.

[scoota]

WOW guys i have started something here ! ,i was more worried about the hull cracking around the turn fin area to be honest . I think we would all be gulity of overpropping & pushing our boats a little hard to see how quick they can go & thats why one of the first things i do is upgrade the ESC !!! i cant tell you how many ESCs i have smoked in my SV27 s ,cause i went 1 mm bigger in a prop :-) & to be honest how much quality do we expect for 300 dollars ???? & dont get me wrong there seams to be an issue with the caps but it sounds like an easy fix , compared to the turn fin ripping away from the hull now thats an issue!!!!!

[scoota]

Just a thought but maybe Aqua Craft should sell a cheaper version without the ESC & MOTOR & call it NTR not ready to run, so we can spec it to our needs ???? Anyway im still looking forward to getting my UL-1 when it gets to Australia , cause they dont sell them here yet !!!! how far behind are we to the rest of the world LOL . thanks again for all your input guys ...

Cheers jason..

[TCR]

My point is that to say in a general statement that an ESC crap without backing it up with how the boat was set up and looking at all the possible cause's does not help new people at all in solving their problems. There are lots of guy's running them hard here in the Seattle area and not having problems but they are set up properly for racing and running very free.

Jim

How would you like it backed up? All 3 of my UL1s set up like this... strut angle is as neutral as it can be, strut depth is right under an inch, turn fin is also very close to neutral... The boat runs loose or free, not wet at all which I like. I'm not going to make a comment w/o knowing the facts and how to properly set up the thing. Batts are enerland 6000s. Am I qualified yet? Nevermind, dont bother. I'm just trying to inform those who might not have the resources I do so they dont end up broke. If you want a maintenance free quality boat go elsewhere.

[JimClark]

Exactly what you said below back's it up and I would say that you have a legitimate beef with them on the ESC. Have you tried to get them to replace the ESC"s

Jim


How would you like it backed up? All 3 of my UL1s set up like this... strut angle is as neutral as it can be, strut depth is right under an inch, turn fin is also very close to neutral... The boat runs loose or free, not wet at all which I like. I'm not going to make a comment w/o knowing the facts and how to properly set up the thing. Batts are enerland 6000s. Am I qualified yet? Nevermind, dont bother. I'm just trying to inform those who might not have the resources I do so they dont end up broke. If you want a maintenance free quality boat go elsewhere.

[TCR]

Honestly, it's not worth my time anymore. I emailed CS on one of my hulls cracking in all the popular places:olleyes: anyway, "she" said if it was a manu defect it should be covered, but they weren't having issues like I described, again:olleyes: and she made me very aware of how much everything was going to cost me in shipping and labor if it wasn't covered. "I cant give you any information, just ship the entire boat back to us." Those little cheap Seaking ESCs are much better than the ESC included in the UL-1.

I wont even go into the experiences I had w/ Aquacraft CS w/ one of my SV27s. I just learned to repair brand new fiberglass.

All I can say is fully inspect a boat before you purchase it. Warranty anything is a battle and takes forever.

[Grimracer]

Additional comments and thoughts.

Something to keep in mind is how much "part throttle" use you are doing as you operate the boat.

I try to get some “U Tube Time” to better understand how our products are being used. Most of the vid I see (not saying this is your case) is 0 experience in driving a hydroplane. They turn the boat left, slow down to a crawl in the corners nail it from a dead start over and over….. just not great boat speed management. Hydroplanes are all about boat speed management!

All in all we knew this was going to happen and that’s why there is a Warning statement on the front cover of the manual.

In testing, we did some part throttle tests but it appears as if we might have designed more boat then the beginner can handle. It also fair to say I did not have as clear an understanding as i could have to how the beginner was going to use the product. As we know part throttle usage means high heat in the ESC..

Note: The only ESC frailer I had during testing was the BEC circuit. (12 back to back runs no cooling 40X52/3) Having said this I was some what carful about sneaking up on props that would fit the need. The 40X57/3 cleaver is THE LIMIT for play time.

Also: The ESC….this ESC (with just a added cap).. has went 65MPH as well as WON a world championship. We are looking at the cap issue and are checking back here from time to time to see how its doing.

All in all.. I feel it’s a good ESC. As I stated we are looking into the cap issue to see what has changed if anything..

Good racing

Grimracer

[TCR]

Well, I'm gathing I'm being labeled "A beginner", and trust me I'm totally cool w/ that, no I have not built a boat from scratch nor do I race. You've stated the the UL-1 is too much boat for a beginner. I would like to correct that; in my opinion, it's too much boat for too little ESC and that could have been easily corrected. If your going to make such a badass boat, why install such a chitty ESC?????????? It looks like your taking the same route as you did w/ the hull, pretty soon there will be an upgraded ESC and previous buyers are... well... just screwed.

[TCR]

Grim, since I can't PM you (which I find very odd if the customer is all that important) I would like to add I have all the respect in the world for you and your accomplishments/abilities. My problem is the way Aquacraft does business and acts with a "theres no problem, your the only one w/ this issue" attitude. I see it in many industries and it's a cop-out. Please start taking care of the customer; all of them, new and old.

[Chuck E Cheese]

i ran my brand new (old hull with sponon mod before running) UL-1 yesterday with no problems. the esc was acceptable temps with a x440 and x442 prop and i was running mid 40's (46.3 mph best with stock motor before swaping to a 8xl/cc240). i love this esc and as stated own 3 of them in other boats with no problems. i always tune my boats to run full throttle around the pond (except in the case i am using cc240's) so as to not build extra heat in any of the components. once again i agree with grim that for its purpose, used correctly this is a good product. out of 6 UL-1 esc's at my local pond used with motors from ammo-2300's, SV's and UL-1's there has only been 1 failure of the BEC. i wish i could claim that out of my CC 120's which seem to fail every other time i use them...

[Capt. Crash]

Mine is one of the first boats out the factory door...I got it about December 11, 2008. Over 75 miles on my stock UL-1 and still no electronic problems....other problems...yes...but not electronic problems. I do not slow down in the corners...it's too much fun watching her run through them at full speed to do that! See my videos and you will see I'm telling the truth.

I use the 40X57 and a cut down 40X52....running between 46-51mph and no caps popped. I don't over temp my equipment. I run 1 1/2 mile heats (max) at a time...and let her cool between runs.

If you popped caps on 3 UL-1s...somethings wrong or you're running hotter/longer/harder than I am.

Crash

[TCR]

I run mine full throttle as much as possible, you almost have to. I guess I'm not the only one...
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=9386

[longballlumber]

It's a pretty cheap additon

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=15425&d=1248784160

[TCR]

It's a pretty cheap additon

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=15425&d=1248784160

My point exactly, why do we have to has been my question for months........:doh:

[longballlumber]

Why does ETTI sell an additional cap board for there LV and HV ESC's?

Why do some highly regarded and experienced FE racers add caps to Castle controllers?

These aquacrafts aren't the only ESC getting extra caps... my $.02

[scoota]

Got my new UL-1 & fitted the extra cap 25v 2200uf cap as grim suggested & no esc issues . well as for RTR just as well i learnt from my SV27s .

1- the hardware was mounted wrong & loose.
2-the cooling jaket o-rings were cut to pieces ,lucky i ordered the up grade one with the boat.
3-the flex cable was to long & had to be cut down so you could set the gap between the strut & drive dog.
4-steering linkages set up wrong ,the rudder would only turn a few degrees out of the box.

I did get the upgrade kit for the water jacket with the boat , but thought the OSE one was a better design & cant understand why Aqua Craft didnt make a one piece jacket


I expected all this from owning 2 SV27s & knew i would have to spend hours getting it right before putting it in the water , but i think Aqua Craft have some major quality control issues . And i feel sorry for the mums & dads or newbees buying these RTR boats thinking they can put it straight into the water.

Apart from that im happy how it runs ...

[TCR]

Got my new UL-1 & fitted the extra cap 25v 2200uf cap as grim suggested & no esc issues . well as for RTR just as well i learnt from my SV27s .

1- the hardware was mounted wrong & loose.
2-the cooling jaket o-rings were cut to pieces ,lucky i ordered the up grade one with the boat.
3-the flex cable was to long & had to be cut down so you could set the gap between the strut & drive dog.
4-steering linkages set up wrong ,the rudder would only turn a few degrees out of the box.

I did get the upgrade kit for the water jacket with the boat , but thought the OSE one was a better design & cant understand why Aqua Craft didnt make a one piece jacket


I expected all this from owning 2 SV27s & knew i would have to spend hours getting it right before putting it in the water , but i think Aqua Craft have some major quality control issues . And i feel sorry for the mums & dads or newbees buying these RTR boats thinking they can put it straight into the water.

Apart from that im happy how it runs ...

Very well put. It is the newbees who get screwed when buying these Aquacraft boats(I've had no issues w/ 3 Proboats). I'm helping someone right now with a SV that will not stop leaking through the transom, siliconed and all. It's Sad, yet you'll have guys(Aquacraft cheerleaders) on here say we're ignorant for not knowing to expect it. This is what's wrong with this country along w/ quality and accountability. Obama's going to fix it all though!:thumbsdown:

[Grimracer]

Got my new UL-1 & fitted the extra cap 25v 2200uf cap as grim suggested & no esc issues . well as for RTR just as well i learnt from my SV27s .

1- the hardware was mounted wrong & loose.
2-the cooling jaket o-rings were cut to pieces ,lucky i ordered the up grade one with the boat.
3-the flex cable was to long & had to be cut down so you could set the gap between the strut & drive dog.
4-steering linkages set up wrong ,the rudder would only turn a few degrees out of the box.

I did get the upgrade kit for the water jacket with the boat , but thought the OSE one was a better design & cant understand why Aqua Craft didnt make a one piece jacket


I expected all this from owning 2 SV27s & knew i would have to spend hours getting it right before putting it in the water , but i think Aqua Craft have some major quality control issues . And i feel sorry for the mums & dads or newbees buying these RTR boats thinking they can put it straight into the water.

Apart from that im happy how it runs ...


You have 4 good points here. Help understand a few...

1 - Let me know how the hardware was mounted wrong.. that would be good to know..
2 – how do you know the o rings were cut to pieces. Did you take it apart before you leak tested it?
3 – I have seen some of this.. its minor and the new guys is never going to know the dif.. but we are listening.. better a tad long then to short..
4 – The steering linkage was actually correct...the boat easy runs well at that setting.. but.. you like me.. we “Like” a tad more.. its not hard to move the rod out on the horn.


Keep us posted

Grim

[scoota]

The rudder mount was bolted up with the top sitting on the top lip of hull ( see pic)& please let me know if that how its ment to be.

The steering rod was in the first hole up from the retaining screw on the servo & had no right hand rudder turn because the horn was hitting the steering rod retainer clip (see 2 pics) i moved it to the third hole up to get some right rudder turn(the pic shows the rudder at full right from out of the box) YES not a big deal if it was ment to be that way..

With the cooling jacket i blew through one end & put my finger over the other & could hear it leaking around the motor , i screwed the end cap off & found the o-rings all damaged.

Thanks for your reply Grim & hope i was some help . All is good & the boat rocks now!!! Im just happy the boat got to Australia in one piece with no damage cause nobody sells them here yet , we are a bit behind in the times LoL....

Cheers jason....

[scoota]

Very well put. It is the newbees who get screwed when buying these Aquacraft boats(I've had no issues w/ 3 Proboats). I'm helping someone right now with a SV that will not stop leaking through the transom, siliconed and all. It's Sad, yet you'll have guys(Aquacraft cheerleaders) on here say we're ignorant for not knowing to expect it. This is what's wrong with this country along w/ quality and accountability. Obama's going to fix it all though!:thumbsdown:

:iagree: i cant say a bad thing about my Pro Boat/Black Jack & wish i could say the same about the Aquacraft products , but the UL-1 didnt have half the problems of my SVs ,thats a good thing i guess ! Dont get me started on all the issues i had with my SVs ill be here all night!!!! It all comes down to quality control .....