PDA

View Full Version : M1 Supercat EZ paint



ReddyWatts
07-20-2007, 11:24 PM
For you guys that want an easy way to paint your hulls without priming or getting a krinkle paint job from the clearcote. Use Rustoleum "Paint for plastic" and "Polyurethane gloss". I only have one coat of clearcote at this time. I will add more after the stickers are on for a slick finish.

You can probably do a better detailed job than me. I am not much for painting, so I found the easy way. You do not need to sand the surface. Only clean the surface with paint thinner, then just paint it.

Jeepers
07-21-2007, 12:44 AM
isnt the M1 made of fiber glass/epoxy glass? I am just wondering how well plastic paint sticks to it, have you tried using hatch tape on it to see if it peels off?
sorry for all the questions.

ReddyWatts
07-21-2007, 12:49 AM
It better not peel off. "Epoxy is a Plastic". I think this paint will bond to the fiberglass epoxy better than normal paint or primer. It wil also work on ABS hulls.

Jeepers
07-21-2007, 01:54 AM
let us know how it holds up. if its durable I may have to try it, I get tired of trying to fix messed up paint, cause my paint skills are................ lacking. (getting better though)

ReddyWatts
07-21-2007, 07:59 AM
The paint can says it will work on : polypropylene, polystyrene, PVC, fiberglass and vinyl plastics. No primer needed. Superior adhesion to these surfaces. Dries in hours, but maximum adhesion and durability is in 5-7 days.

Read the directions on the can for how long to wait between coats and all that stuff.

Jeepers
07-21-2007, 12:20 PM
thanks for the info!!! I will have to go check this stuff out at the local spend money places.:D

ReddyWatts
07-21-2007, 12:42 PM
I found some at Home Depot and Sutherland Lumber yards.

Piranha2
07-21-2007, 10:03 PM
I have been using the Plasti-kote Fusion for plastics for the reasons stated above, F iberglass R einforced P lastic.

ReddyWatts
07-21-2007, 10:06 PM
What do you use for a clearcoat with the fusion paint that will not krinkle?

Piranha2
07-21-2007, 10:24 PM
Uhhh, I forgot to mention that yes my clearcoat crinkled!!! I thought it might have been because I painted it outside in the heat and then brought it down to the cellar to cure....ie: temperature change crinkled clearcoat.

ReddyWatts
07-21-2007, 10:36 PM
The same thing happened to me when I used the fusion paint and added a clearcoat.

Rex R
07-22-2007, 12:11 AM
fusion is an enamal paint, and the clear is a laquer.

hkusp45
07-22-2007, 03:46 AM
Uhhh, I forgot to mention that yes my clearcoat crinkled!!! I thought it might have been because I painted it outside in the heat and then brought it down to the cellar to cure....ie: temperature change crinkled clearcoat.

Two different types of paint caused the krinkle. Enamal and Laquer.

ReddyWatts
07-22-2007, 08:41 AM
The ingredients in the Rustoleum paint for plastic and clear gloss are the same.

Toluene, Acetone and Xylene

The clear coat says it is Polyurethane. It was designed for airplanes and boats. It seals, protects and reduces air and water drag.

http://www.polyurethane.org/s_api/sec.asp?CID=918&DID=3631

ReddyWatts
07-25-2007, 06:22 PM
Finally got the stickers for it and installed the KB45.

Just realized what the KB stands for in the model name. KICK BUTT!!!

skeeler
07-27-2007, 12:19 PM
So, what's the consensus on Krylon Fusion paint for plastic? Does it work well without priming?

ReddyWatts
07-27-2007, 12:57 PM
It works great without priming, but I don't know what you can spray on it as a clear coat without it crinkling the fusion paint.

hammertime
07-27-2007, 02:03 PM
i can wait to see how those motors performe.........paint looks great...........how did you come up with your name if you dont mind me asking i really like it

ReddyWatts
07-27-2007, 06:02 PM
I work for an Electric Utility in the technical support department. We transport (345000 Volts/ 3 phase) megawatts of electricity across Texas. Reddy Kilowatts is the electric utility mascot. Remember the guy made out of red lightning bolts with a yellow round head with a light bulb as his nose. So I thought it was appropriate to be Reddy since Watts is my game. That is why I am fascinated with these 3 phase electric boat motors. I never get to deal with motors in my job.

Probably more than you wanted to know.............. ha

hammertime
07-27-2007, 07:01 PM
wow that is cool........and you have a head start on some pretty good knowlege of electricity

Jeepers
07-28-2007, 01:44 AM
NICE boat, you should add the little lightning dude to it that would look cool on that boat.

ReddyWatts
07-28-2007, 07:19 AM
Yes, it would be cool, but is was hard to get him on a material that I could spray clearcoat over. I experimented with a laser printer with no success.

I may take it down to a graphics place and see if they can do it.

Jeepers
07-28-2007, 12:43 PM
fusion is an enamal paint, and the clear is a laquer.
If the paint is enamel use an enamel clear coat.

Doug Smock
07-28-2007, 02:46 PM
It works great without priming, but I don't know what you can spray on it as a clear coat without it crinkling the fusion paint.
Good looking boat Mr. Watts.

Fusion has it's own clear and the "Mystic Prisim Effect" clear, like metalflake.

You ABSOLUTLY HAVE TO follow the directions. "recoat within 24 hrs or after five days" Don't ask me how I know, I won't tell.:eek:

Doug

skeeler
07-28-2007, 04:57 PM
Does one need to add a clear coat, or will it hold up well without it?

Doug Smock
07-28-2007, 05:12 PM
Does one need to add a clear coat, or will it hold up well without it?
(FUSION)
It will hold up without clear, we have it on several boats.
I haven't had hatch tape lift it either.:)

Doug

Stealth Assassin
07-29-2007, 10:17 AM
Does the m-1 not have gel coat over the epoxy???

ReddyWatts
07-29-2007, 10:36 AM
I am not sure. The Rustolean paint can says it works on fiberglass.

Stealth Assassin
07-29-2007, 10:45 AM
Allmost all hulls come with gel coat except hulls like the phill thomas sport 20/40. If It has color, It's more than likely gel coat. Gel coat Is sprayed In the mold before the glass Is layed. Then when you pull the part out of the mold, the gel coat Is stuck to the part/glass layed up.
So In other words, you are more than likely going to be looking for a paint that sticks to gel coat. The first step you have to make Is sanding and being 100% sure you get all the mold release of the gel with the proper degreaser.

The mold release can cause alot of the proplems you guys are speaking of. ;) IMHO...

Derrick

ReddyWatts
07-29-2007, 10:50 AM
Thanks for your input. The paint can instructions says that fiberglass does not need sanding using this paint, just clean it with paint thinner. You are saying it works better if you sand it?

Stealth Assassin
07-29-2007, 11:00 AM
Yes light 600 grit wet sanding Is the way to go before paint. Mainly what I am saying also Is that more than likely you will or have painted over gel coat unless you sanded It all off to the glass.

Nothing to freek out over or anything:eek: ;) But I thought I would point out the mold release Issue. Most people do not know about It. It's best to try and cut It down with the proper degreaser just for gel coat from your local body shop supply.

ReddyWatts
07-29-2007, 11:12 AM
So cleaning it with paint thinner will not take care of the gel coat?

Stealth Assassin
07-29-2007, 11:16 AM
The degreaser I am speaking of Is totally differant than paint thinner, laquer thinner or acetone. Also when you wipe It down with the degreaser you have to be sure and wash your hands very well and not touch the surface cleaned with you bare hands before painting.

The degreaser Is not as harsh as the thinners listed above. It Is what Is needed to clean the gel coat of mold release and oils.

ReddyWatts
07-29-2007, 11:47 AM
Ok, but the rustolean paint was engineered to go on without sanding. That is why I chose to use it and the reason for this thread. I agree that any paint will bond better to a ruff sanded surface, but I am not into spending time prepping the hulls. If the paint performs like it says I will be happy. Thanks for your input.

Stealth Assassin
07-29-2007, 11:56 AM
That's cool. I was not meaning you did wrong. I just wanted to give a little helpfull Input on my experience.;)

skeeler
07-29-2007, 09:16 PM
Thanks Doug and Stealth Assassin.

I think my plan is to use Krylon Fusion for plastics, but to sand the surface and maybe use the special degreaser to ensure proper bonding. Stealth, is there a particular brand or model of degreaser you would suggest?

There doesn't seem to be a clear coat specifically for this paint. (I'm not counting the prismatic stuff.) I may just go without, since Doug reports that it holds up well.

skeeler
07-30-2007, 10:45 AM
While we are on the subject of paint, can anyone tell me whether it is advisable to paint the hull before installing the hardware and electronics or afterwards?

Stealth Assassin
07-30-2007, 10:48 AM
Do the Install first and take It back out/off then paint.

skeeler
07-30-2007, 11:05 AM
Stealth Assassin,

Thanks for the tip. That sounds like the right approach.

ReddyWatts
07-30-2007, 06:02 PM
Final paint job.

Doug Smock
07-31-2007, 06:08 PM
She looks good Mr.Watts! When is the maiden voyage?

Doug

ReddyWatts
07-31-2007, 06:39 PM
I am waiting on some parts. Probably not until the end of the month. I read about someone using the same setup as mine. They said it is running 47mph with the KB45 and 24 NiMh cells in a M1. I do not know how experienced the guy was at setting up boats.

ReddyWatts
11-06-2007, 06:07 PM
I have been running the "EZ Paint" job for 3 months now. This brand of paint has worked great without prepping the hull as the instructions on the can directed. Just clean the fiberglass with paint thinner, then spray it with Rustolean Paint for Plastic.
If you are going to add a clearcoat? I would apply it within 1 hour as directed. I waited for 7 days and had a problem with the clearcoat coming off in one spot from the hatch tape.

This is for the guys that dont get excited about prepping and painting a hull.