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FoxProGT
06-22-2009, 03:00 PM
Sup peeps...

I have to replace the blown cap on the esc and wasnt sure what numbers i needed to look for on the caps... theres 25v 680uf ZL TO633 & 105c.. i went to 3 radio shacks but they didnt have the part >:(

anyone have links to an online store that sells these parts or upgrades?

egneg
06-22-2009, 03:17 PM
Kintec Racing has Rubycon caps. Scroll down and you will see them.

http://kintecracing.com/Accessories.html

FoxProGT
06-22-2009, 03:28 PM
awesome! that you so much for the quick reply ...iv put an order for 5 of them :D i take i can add 2 caps to the battery wires for more safety?

TCR
06-23-2009, 06:35 AM
How did you know the cap was blown, was it bulging?

Grimracer
06-23-2009, 10:01 AM
How did you know the cap was blown, was it bulging?

TCR

First is the tell tail start/stop with the boat in the water (under load)
Then.. take a look at the exposed end of the cap.. you will see some lines in the end. Yep.. that’s the right place to look..

It might be bulged allot or just slightly.. if its not dead flat.. its bad..

To put a new one on is easy.. using your hands tear the old one off and clip the leads off as close to the ESC as you can.

Using a new cap.. I use 25V 2200Uf.. remove about 1/8" of the insulation around the + and - power leads leading to the ESC. Do this as close to the ESC as you can.

Solder the proper + and – leads of the cap to the wires of the ESC.. Try and keep the leads of the cap as short as you can and as close to the ESC as you can.

Let me know if you understand

Grim

TCR
06-23-2009, 10:20 AM
TCR

First is the tell tail start/stop with the boat in the water (under load)
Then.. take a look at the exposed end of the cap.. you will see some lines in the end. Yep.. that’s the right place to look..

It might be bulged allot or just slightly.. if its not dead flat.. its bad..

To put a new one on is easy.. using your hands tear the old one off and clip the leads off as close to the ESC as you can.

Using a new cap.. I use 25V 2200Uf.. remove about 1/8" of the insulation around the + and - power leads leading to the ESC. Do this as close to the ESC as you can.

Solder the proper + and – leads of the cap to the wires of the ESC.. Try and keep the leads of the cap as short as you can and as close to the ESC as you can.

Let me know if you understand

Grim

Thanks! Can you tell me what's going on w/ my UL-1 ESC when after full throttle bursts the boat dies in the water, I then have to rearm by powering the TX off then on and cycle the trigger for beeps, then it will take off again? THis happens once or twice per run and on fresh packs? Could this be a cap getting weak or bad?

detox
06-23-2009, 11:35 AM
Thanks! Can you tell me what's going on w/ my UL-1 ESC when after full throttle bursts the boat dies in the water, I then have to rearm by powering the TX off then on and cycle the trigger for beeps, then it will take off again? THis happens once or twice per run and on fresh packs? Could this be a cap getting weak or bad?

You have a bad capacitor. I use two of the 1500uf 25v types. To make job easier, apply flux then tin yor battery wires before soldering on capacitor leads.
http://www.newark.com/rubycon/25zlh1500m12-5x20/aluminum-electrolytic-capacitor/dp/38M3253?_requestid=246709

It would also be a verygood idea to replace those cheap Aquacraft 4mm motor/esc connectors with beefier 5.5mm bullet connectors.


.....

Grimracer
06-23-2009, 01:14 PM
TCR,

let me know if that goes away after you install the new cap.. that is likely what’s causing the issue.

Also.. make sure the solder joints are good between all the connectors..

:rockon2:

Grim

TCR
06-23-2009, 06:17 PM
TCR,

let me know if that goes away after you install the new cap.. that is likely what’s causing the issue.

Also.. make sure the solder joints are good between all the connectors..

:rockon2:

Grim

No offense guys and I know the UL-1 is a really good RTR boat(as I have 2 of them and I'll have a 3rd by the end of the week for my son), but this boat is 2 months old and I thought I was taking pretty good care of it. I guess I'm not real impressed with the the quality if this is my issue, not to mention the 2.4ghz remote doesn't have near the distance of my SV27. I don't race so yeah I'd like to run the boat 100yds away w/o issues.

FoxProGT
06-24-2009, 03:29 AM
How did you know the cap was blown, was it bulging?




my cap had a slight bulg on the top so hopefuly that is the issue........

FoxProGT
06-24-2009, 03:30 AM
TCR

First is the tell tail start/stop with the boat in the water (under load)
Then.. take a look at the exposed end of the cap.. you will see some lines in the end. Yep.. that’s the right place to look..

It might be bulged allot or just slightly.. if its not dead flat.. its bad..

To put a new one on is easy.. using your hands tear the old one off and clip the leads off as close to the ESC as you can.

Using a new cap.. I use 25V 2200Uf.. remove about 1/8" of the insulation around the + and - power leads leading to the ESC. Do this as close to the ESC as you can.

Solder the proper + and – leads of the cap to the wires of the ESC.. Try and keep the leads of the cap as short as you can and as close to the ESC as you can.

Let me know if you understand

Grim


i understand 100%.... i just hope that is indeed my issue :)

FoxProGT
06-24-2009, 03:40 AM
No offense guys and I know the UL-1 is a really good RTR boat(as I have 2 of them and I'll have a 3rd by the end of the week for my son), but this boat is 2 months old and I thought I was taking pretty good care of it. I guess I'm not real impressed with the the quality if this is my issue, not to mention the 2.4ghz remote doesn't have near the distance of my SV27. I don't race so yeah I'd like to run the boat 100yds away w/o issues.



it does suck alittle and i think it is something that the makers should be able to fix easy .. you would think... but iv seen worse things in the hobby game. X)


i did take my boat out to far once that made it lose reception but it was pritty far out and i was only testing how far it would go.. maybe my eye sight is that bad but when it was that far out .... you couldnt barely even see it so i myself have no need for it to go even farther then it already can.. XD but i bet with a wire antenna on the receiver it could have gone abit further ... i wonder if one can mod the receiver with a wire antenna :D

LuckyDuc
06-24-2009, 09:30 AM
FWIW. I really pushed the limits of my stock ESC and had zero problems... pushed 120+ amp spikes with some props.

I ran it at full throttle though, and only did 2.5-3 minute runs at most. If you run your UL-1 at less than full throttle for long periods of time you risk blowing caps. That holds true with any ESC. Fortunately the repair is pretty straight forward.

If you like to run your boat at long distances you should switch to a FM radio.

FoxProGT
06-24-2009, 05:26 PM
If you run your UL-1 at less than full throttle for long periods of time you risk blowing caps.


so running at full throttle most of the time is better for it? that would mean more fun for me then :D

Drag Boat Bob
06-24-2009, 09:18 PM
Yep, what he said... :iagree:

no stick
07-06-2009, 10:31 AM
Using a new cap.. I use 25V 2200Uf.. remove about 1/8" of the insulation around the + and - power leads leading to the ESC. Do this as close to the ESC as you can. Grim

Kintec racing has the 1500uf capacitors. Please tell us where we can get the 2200uf capacitors. Can I solder two 1500uf capacitors tegether to get 3000uf and then solder to the power leads going to the ESC?

Pics would be helpful.

Tks in advance,

TCR
07-06-2009, 10:35 AM
Yes, you can. I went to radio shack and got two 25v/1000uf caps, tied them in parallel, tie the longer leads(+) the the red(positive)side, then the shorter(-) to the black side.