Simon's 30"mono build

[Simon.O.]

My plan is for this one to be 30" long but we shall see once it is skinned and the nose is tipped with hardwood.

I have the ability to add a flood chamber as marked below and would like to hear if it will do the job of righting the hull.

I know that most flood chambers run further forward but I have chosen to make the hull water tight from amidships-forward, with the exception of the battery tunnel that gives me the ability to move a 4S pack to alter the Cg of the boat.

My Plan
9xl on 4S
440 prop for starters and upwards from there.

[Simon.O.]

More pics

[andym]

A flood chamber in a Wild Thing, YES PLEASE. I would love to see how it goes.

[ED66677]

Master Builder you are Simon! If you were living in France I would offer you to make a complete drive line for free for this project!
If it's light weight, and it should be as it's balsa, go for a 8XL it will be a blast!
Just a question as I'm comparing to my DF copy, did you "flaten" the rear of the Vee, at transom? Looks like you kept the same Vee angle all along the hull? not sure it's a good idea! I'd have more angle (deeper V as my DF copy) at the amidship section for "wave breaking" purpose!

[Gerwin Brommer]

hm, hopefully the volume of the floodchamber is large enough...............
Wouldn't be surprised if not.

[Simon.O.]

ED The vee is constant on this one. I used the bottom profile of the Wild thing as a design cue. The info I have picked up so far tells me to go with the vee keel, no pads, rails or rocker / hook. This will give me a "clean peice of paper" as such and I can alter or add from there.
As for wave-breaking, no-way. I am a flat water boater, although the 4S rigger screams on 1-2" ripples.

Gerwin I fear you may be right. :unsure:
I'll wait and see if anyone fires me a PM with some more opinions on the flood chamber.

[Gerwin Brommer]

Why not make it larger , till the next bulkhead ?

[crabstick]

Looking good!

I will take some Pics of inside my Oval Master for you Simon

the flood chamber on that doesnt run any further forward than the hatch opening and It would right itself in about 2-3 seconds.

The other thing to consider is with the COG where It was in my OM the bow was out of the water when the boat was upside down, I actually think you might be ok if the opening in the transom is large enough, My Friend (Zero Limits) and I built our OM's together and we figured the hole in the transom needs to be roughly about 1/3 of the transom...

Lots of bathtub testing is the way we got it in the end.

[Simon.O.]

Why not make it larger , till the next bulkhead ?
The flood chamber came as an idea after the build began. The centre bulkhead is framed in such a way that even if I cut a hole there is still 4mm of hardwood strip across the bottom that would affect water flow out.
Í have a few days to decide if I want to go ahead with the FC so I'll read a bit more about them.

[Zero_Limits]

Looking good!

I will take some Pics of inside my Oval Master for you Simon

the flood chamber on that doesnt run any further forward than the hatch opening and It would right itself in about 2-3 seconds.

The other thing to consider is with the COG where It was in my OM the bow was out of the water when the boat was upside down, I actually think you might be ok if the opening in the transom is large enough, My Friend (Zero Limits) and I built our OM's together and we figured the hole in the transom needs to be roughly about 1/3 of the transom...

Lots of bathtub testing is the way we got it in the end.

Bath tub testing, frustrating times, but worth it in the end. Nothing better than a flood chamber if you’re just running for fun!

The other thing you can do to help the flood chamber work is put as much weight on that side of the boat as you can, receiver battery, esc etc. The only problem with this is if you do get any water in your boat and it stops in the middle of the pond It will sit to that side and all the water will be sitting where the electronics are, aye Matt :tongue_smilie:

[crabstick]

yeah :banana: so the moral of the story is : Run a dry boat... the cause of my leak was a pinhole in the water cooling tube, I now use a electric nitro pump to pressure test the cooling system LOL

[Simon.O.]

It has been a busy morning here.
The R&D team directed the design department to make alterations to the plans.
The manufacturing shop was notified and the fabrication engineers called in to remove a portion of bulkhead to make the flood chamber run longer.
The materials aquistion officer has been fired as there is not enough balsa sheet in stores to complete the FC today. :blah:

This is where I am at now.

Oh and I too know about good tape downs and pinholes in water lines, been seen done. :cursing:

[tylerm]

Looks good Simon, the flood chamber should be sweet, sweet as bro.

With the light weight of the lipo and brushless, weight placement will most likely be critical. Unlike our ovalmasters(i copied Bruce and Matt, although i think i have a larger total area due to not knowing what i was doing:doh:), which had 12 cells and 700s in them which would sink the boats further down in the water, this will most likely sit higher up on the water? So after all that my suggestion is to make the opening as close to the deck as possible. Try not to leave a lip, what i did was reinforce the whole area by bending a single stainless steel bike spoke to fit round the opening, from the bottom, up the side and round the top. Then i glued this in. Spokes are cheap, bout a $1 each. Or free for a broken one:bounce: They also make GREAT pushrods.

Whew, that was more of a workout than the gym:laugh:

[tylerm]

BTW Simon, are you a member of Intlwaters? If so i have some good info for you regarding the setup.

[Simon.O.]

my suggestion is to make the opening as close to the deck as possible. Try not to leave a lip,
I hear ya on the opening. I am not keen to set the top of the hole any higher as I will lose the strength in the transom. I will do some float testing before paint on this so If I really have to I can adjust the hole.


BTW Simon, are you a member of Intlwaters? If so i have some good info for you regarding the setup.
Member. PM me any link you have.

Thanks
Simon.

[Gerwin Brommer]

How high is the wall of the floodchamber ?
Large enough to be the place where the lipo's can be placed ?
You now have the lipo in the centre of the hull ???
You need weight on the floodchamber side to flip back.
Another point to consider : your boat is made of wood. wood floats.
So your boat is flipping back extra hard.
So I suggest : put as much weight as you can on the left side.

And ; IF this boat gets a canopy ( I hope so ) , make it offcentre, to the right, that will help flipping back.

[Simon.O.]

How high is the wall of the floodchamber ?
Large enough to be the place where the lipo's can be placed ?
You now have the lipo in the centre of the hull ???
You need weight on the floodchamber side to flip back.
Another point to consider : your boat is made of wood. wood floats.
So your boat is flipping back extra hard.
So I suggest : put as much weight as you can on the left side.

And ; IF this boat gets a canopy ( I hope so ) , make it offcentre, to the right, that will help flipping back.

Gerwin
The flood chamber wall will be up to deck height from front to back.
The 4S lipo was always intended to be in the centre ( that tunnel in the middle )
I will have enough room between the centre line and the FC wall to place the Rx, Rx battery and ESC. This will give me a little weight advantge to the left.

I will do a float / flood test with a hatch that has no canopy and then work from there with size and shape.
A foam dummy one can be made and reworked to get a desired shape and location.
The offset canopy is an idea that I am looking into.

[norbique]

Very nice build Simon!

Any new pics?! ;)

[bigpapa]

look great good luck

[rcboatfan]

looks awsome!!!

[Simon.O.]

looks awsome!!!
Either my photography skills are great or your eyesight is a bit suspect. :just-kidding:
My boats do look better on screen than in person.


Anyway here is an update.

I need to:
Swap out some of the temp fasteners for SS.
Plumb up the water lines
Complete the cf jacket for the 9XL
Make a hatch
Design and fab up a canopy, not sure waht look to go for yet
Sort out the steering linkage.

Get it ready for water.

[tylerm]

Looks sh*t hot Simon, wanna make me some hardware?:biggrin:
I really like the motor mount, must be real strong:thumbup1:

[rcboatfan]

looks great simon:thumbup:

[EPower]

Either my photography skills are great or your eyesight is a bit suspect. :just-kidding:
My boats do look better on screen than in person.


Anyway here is an update.

I need to:
Swap out some of the temp fasteners for SS.
Plumb up the water lines
Complete the cf jacket for the 9XL
Make a hatch
Design and fab up a canopy, not sure waht look to go for yet
Sort out the steering linkage.

Get it ready for water.

It looks great Simon i think it will not self right the fact been is that wood floats and most of your weight is in the middle i hope i'm wrong :beerchug:

Adrian

woops someone else already mentioned it :zip-up::tape:

[Simon.O.]

It looks great Simon i think it will not self right the fact been is that wood floats and most of your weight is in the middle i hope i'm wrong :beerchug:

Adrian

woops someone else already mentioned it :zip-up::tape:
Adrian.
I too have my concerns about the self righting ability.
You are right about the weight distribution as most of it is down the centre line for a few reasons.
However it is very low, and therefore high when upside down. This should help with tipping it over.

It is a bit of a catch 22 with a flood chamber. If you have one then the pack must be more central.
The esc , rx and rx pack is on the left of centre.

I will float test it in the next few days and see what happens.
The results may mean that I have a taller canopy, that is fine too.

Tyler
Too right, that motor mount is very strong, a bit weighty but that is not all bad as this hull may need ballast anyway.
PM me with what you have in mind for some good old Kiwi alloy HW.

[Gerwin Brommer]

Maybe you can glue some lead inside the floodchamber.....................

[tylerm]

Simon, i was just pulling your leg mate:bounce: We might have a chat on a saw project i may do sometime in the future. Other things on atm tho:tape:
A bubble canopy will help. I have faith that it wil work:thumbup: All you need is flood holes down the freeboard or on the deck, a hole in the bottom to let the air out, and one up front of deck to let the water out when taking off.

If all else fails stick on mag wheel weights will fix her up:cool:

Ty.

[crabstick]

Hi Simon,

I reckon ye might be ok, only way to find out is to try. Check out the holes in the pics, the side holes make the FC fill a lot faster


The old Beater *sniff* probably one of the most fun boats to run ive ever owned, with 16cells and an ss1 and she moved out pretty quick., probably the first FE that Tyler drove too ?
on 12 cell Dominated the LSO class for a while:rockon2:, despite a few course changes to supposedly even it up for other boats:zip-up: I recall a particular rough race where prior to racing the course had gone from an oval to a dogleg in the back straight, and I had to do a left hand turn at speed with no left turn fin LOL. I Flipped, righted in about 3 seconds and then won the race by 1/2 a lap. Flood chambers are now banned in that class (well using them during a race) LOL ah the good old days.

http://milsim.co.nz/whip/IMG00353.jpg
http://milsim.co.nz/whip/IMG00354.jpg
http://milsim.co.nz/whip/IMG00355.jpg
http://milsim.co.nz/whip/IMG00356.jpg

[crabstick]

apologies for the hazy phone pics, my lens has dust and junk all over it

[tylerm]

Oh cuz thats a sight, i think ol' STi(afta the subaru's) must have an STI now:rofl:
You'd be right that she was the first FE i drove, and its what got me really motivatedto get into FE(geez that must have been a couple of years ago now). Infection hasn't left me yet(thankfully):beerchug: There a good boat, your motivating me to continue with the remodeling of mine :eek:

[Simon.O.]

I ran the power system today, in a test hull. Old Academy Sea Dagger 29" ABS hull
Well modded by me.

Chinese 9XL with no water cooling
Flightpower 4900 4S
Super Simple 100A ESC with cooling on the top plate.

M440 Good hook up and happy speed
X637 Better hookup and happy speed
X642 Ok hookup and serious speed

Need to try a 447 cf prop I found later.

My findings tell me that I will need to cool the motor for anything over a 440.
That is fine as I have a solid jacket ready to go on there

All of the wood is now sealed and now is the long process of curing the varnish between coats.
I want 3 full coats on there before I go for colours.
YES!! This one will get painted...................colour to be chosen, but I am leaning toward a very bright green with black trim.

I hate painting

This will get wet soon !!

[Gerwin Brommer]

Simon :

for example : red for the upperdeck, yellow in bottom.

[crabstick]

The sea dagger would have not known what hit it

you got the Chinese 9xl

How is it ? have you replaced the bearings

[Simon.O.]

The sea dagger would have not known what hit it

you got the Chinese 9xl

How is it ? have you replaced the bearings

The SD had the 7XL out of the big rigger in it once :eek:
It has a Simon style stinger out the rear.

The Red 9XL is fine so far. Very smooth and no lateral play in the bearings, yet.
It got midly warm on a M440 and a 642 strated to heat it up a bit, not hot though.
A cf jacket is being made this week.

[Simon.O.]

Progress today

Canopy made and sealed
Water jacket for motor made, to be fitted tomorrow.
Rudder linkage made and ready to fit.

Here are a couple of pics as it sits now.
The canopy needs 2 more coats of varnish to seal it properly.

I am not sure if I want to paint this one.

[norbique]

Hi Simon!
Nice canopy, and nice boat!
What kind of varnish are you using?
Do you also use varnish to seal the inside of the boat?

[Simon.O.]

Norbert.
The varnish is a Wattyl clear, that is what the can says but I think my father may have put a tint in it a while ago. It is an old can.
The other varnish I use is a Cabots clear.

The canopy will get a couple of coats of the clear so will contrast a little with the darker deck.
Given the different grain directions of the deck it looks really nice in the sunlight.

I'll get it outside for some pics once all the HW is polished and fitted.

[tylerm]

Sh*t hot simon, it looks good. Good to hear on the chinky XL, my one ran in a cambell un cooled and it was burning, so maybe its a hit and miss sorta thing. At thats price you could afford a dud or 2.

Ty.

[crabstick]

Simon, Looking shiney man! how did the flood chamber testing go ? or you still waiting to do that ?

on the chinese HTX Xl's etc . they are no longer the same motors as when you got yours I think Tyler. I just got an 8S and its a KB36, not KD36, the endbells are silver not black and its almost identical to my Fiegao, apart from the wire.

[Simon.O.]

It has been wet and goes well so far.
The flood chamber does not flip it back over......yet.
It ran a little wet but I will work on that.

Setup
Bow to transom length 30" 760mm
Width 8.5" 215mm
Cg 10" 250mm 30%
Shaft centre line is 8mm above keel line and 0 deg
Prop is setback 4.5" 105mm 13% of hull length.
Rudder Te is inline with drivedog and it turns very well, at wot will skip a little in the turn but I 'll sort some of that later. On the straight it sits on the keel like a knife edge but a bit nose wet for my liking

This is my main concern so I have added a pair of lift strakes to the bottom to see if this will get the nose up a little more.

A few pics of the HW as it is now, and the strakes. Glue is drying

[tylerm]

Simon do you have air release holes and holes on the side of your floodchamber? these are essential. My OM would not right without them.

[Simon.O.]

Simon do you have air release holes and holes on the side of your floodchamber? these are essential. My OM would not right without them.

Tyler, there are air release holes at the front of the FC in the bottom.
This thing is just too bouyant (big/light) and too flat on the top.
I am not keen to have one of those dufuss looking canopies that are made for the SV27 to help with righting either.
I will see how the boat runs once I air it out a little and if it does flip a lot then I will sort the FC out.
For now it will be a tow upside down like all my other boats, especially the canard.

[tylerm]

You need holes along the side as well, let me see if i can find a pic. It will not self-right without holes along the side.

[tylerm]

haha AM radios FTW:just-kidding:http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tj15C2BO0yPdg-U_sxKf5Q?feat=directlink

[Simon.O.]

You need holes along the side as well, let me see if i can find a pic. It will not self-right without holes along the side.

Tyler, it has vent holes in the botttom as that becomes the top when it is playing possum.
There is a row of flood holes in the upper deck to let the water in plus the obvious one in the rear.
I have spent a bit of time on this one in the neighbours pool and the bottom line is the bugger is too bouyant and stable while upside down,.....for now.

I do know a bit about vessel stability as I have salvaged/refloated more than one, full size that is.

Trust me a trimarran upside down is one of the most stable things I have ever seen on the water. :laugh: A royal pointy thing to get upright too.:cursing:

I am not putting a lot of concern into the flood chamber on this hull.

I want to get it running well first.

[tylerm]

haha, not good bout the chamber simon.

[Flying Scotsman]

Simon, very nice looking boat. On the self righting, you may have to add weight on the flood chamber wall side ..battery...lead. My ToysPort Triton requires this. It will look lopsided in the water at rest but will centre under power.

Douggie

[Simon.O.]

I got a hole in the weather to run it today after a pile of lawns that needed mowing.

The new lift strakes on the bottom make it fun.
On the straight it sits flat but dry, on a knife edge of the keel. The smallest rudder input will heel the boat over and that tells me that is is running high on the keel.
A little lifting but no serious signs of blowover yet.

Corners ?? Well there comes the fun.
A loose wide bend can be taken at wot but if I pull it in tighter then it begins to skip. It will not hook and spin just skip a lot as the turn gets tighter.

It is now a hoot to hold it at wot and see how tight I can pull a turn and keep it steady on the water. A mix of throttle control and steering will give me what I want.

Back off for the tight turn and run wide and loose for a wot turn.

I'll sort the flood chamber another day. For now I have a rough weather boat and will use it a lot over the winter.

The Cg is now at 27% and I am running a pair of 2S 5000 20C zippy packs in series as the Flightpower 4S pack I used two days ago has had enough.

[norbique]

Hi Simon!

It soudns interesting. Could you make a short video to show how it perfoms on the water?! :)

[lomdel]

... with all of your projects running simultaneously, I would really like to see a pic of your workbench / workshop Simon ...

[Simon.O.]

Here is a suggestion that was sent to me in a PM

just a thought would a ride pad make it a bit better give it a bit of width to ride on then maybe add a small skeg considering you made your own strut

Thoughts and ideas ??

Lombard, I'll e-mail you a few shots soon.

[Simon.O.]

From this discussion.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=7653

I will now cut the bottom of this hull and step it.
The principle here will be to keep the keel line as is and the strut may not even have to move at all.
It is possible that the motor mount and other internal structure will remain unaffected and this can be a quick nip&tuck to the hull bottom.
If the motor rails etc need to be moved then that is fine too.

There are two reasons I will do this step project on this hull.

1. It is not fast enough at present. The setup is 7XL + 4S + m440. I just get 40mph so far and while it is fun to run, l would like a bit more, maybe 50 ??
I know it would be easy to change the power train or prop but I want to alter the hull. It is a lot cheaper to do hull work and I want to know how steps work

2. The step project on the Cat taught me a lot and I want to further my knowledge of hull design into stepped monos.

I have coloured on the hull bottom where I plan to do the cuts. The "blue" area will be removed and then I will re-skin the bottom to produce the steps.

This is the plan. 1 step at 40% and the 2nd at 20% from the transom.

[CornelP]

I'll be watching this, as I also want more from my wildthing...
Maybe it would be an idea to try adding some thick balsa to the first 50% of the hull, to get a more traditional step (whole width of the hull)... it is easier to remove than fill the holes....

[Simon.O.]

I'll be watching this, as I also want more from my wildthing...
Maybe it would be an idea to try adding some thick balsa to the first 50% of the hull, to get a more traditional step (whole width of the hull)... it is easier to remove than fill the holes....

I had already thought of that and dismissed the idea as it would raise the whole hull profile and make a lot of work for me to get the wire/shaft setup sorted again.
It is as much wood and glue to go the way that I am intending.

I do like your way of thinking Cornel.:tiphat:

[CornelP]

Thank you, same here...:beerchug:

[G Doggett]

You just can't resist butchering a perfectly good hull can you mate. :just-kidding:

Might see ya at the Quarry Sunday AM if the weather holds off.

Graham.:rockon2:

[crabstick]

wouldnt hold your breath on that weather Graham its meant to turn to :flame42: 25knots for saturday, 10 for sunday.

I have a big game of paintball i have organised on saturday, but sunday Im going to run my cat (your old cat) out here at by my place, at high tide its only about 4 feet deep for about 100 meters out, also have my jetski for a rescue vessel if needed. TRUE OFFSHORE!! haha bring longlite or victory out for a run. If the wind is a southerly the beach remains protected. Theres even a rock that you can walk up on that elevates you 2-3 feet above the water. There will be enough water to run from about 1:30 - 4pm as the tides are huge at the moment. Might post it up on our forum. im happy for people to come over to my place to rinse the boats afterwards, its about 400m from the beach

[Simon.O.]

You just can't resist butchering a perfectly good hull can you mate. :just-kidding:

Might see ya at the Quarry Sunday AM if the weather holds off.

Graham.:rockon2:
You are right Graham, I enjoy cutting in and then makeing alterations.

Here are a few pics of progress. It should get wet at the weekend. The weather up here on the Shore is always nice. :thumbup:

[crabstick]

interesting, looks very.... odd :P

[domwilson]

Interesting design and concept. How do you think the low speed and cornering characteristics will be?

[domwilson]

Do you think that the flat area behind the second step will serve as a planing service?

[Simon.O.]

Interesting design and concept. How do you think the low speed and cornering characteristics will be?
My gut feel is that there is now less hull at the rear and it may turn better. Before it used to corner like a kangaroo on speed.



Do you think that the flat area behind the second step will serve as a planing service?
That flat became necessary to get the running points in a flat line. It used to have a flat there anyway so I do not see too much of an issue.
The concept here is to get it to run on all 3 points of the hull much like my stepped cat.
If it chooses to rise nose up and run on the tail only it will look very cool but I suspect will be a real handful to drive.

I have so many theories and some counteract others so I will wait until I get this one wet.
That is how I did the Step Project on the small cat.
Cut-glue- observe, learn. :thumbup1:

[domwilson]

Not the flat on the keel. I was thinking that if the bow is high, would the triangular shaped area act like the front of a hydro sponson with an angle of attack all its own?
It's really thought provoking..

[G Doggett]

I like it. :thumbup:
IMO I would put the full length spray rails (strakes) back on so that they can help prevent water clinging to the hull.
Keep those wild and wacky ideas coming.
Graham.:rockon2:

[crabstick]

my thoughts are it may not be in contact with the water a lot, the steps look like they may act as a ramp and 'pop' the boat out of the water, if you can set it up to run on the back step it might go real quick! it is VERY interesting and im just itching to find out how it goes.

[domwilson]

my thoughts are it may not be in contact with the water a lot, the steps look like they may act as a ramp and 'pop' the boat out of the water, if you can set it up to run on the back step it might go real quick! it is VERY interesting and im just itching to find out how it goes.

That's kind of what I what I was trying to say. :beerchug:

[Simon.O.]

This hull is now on the display shelf in the downstairs lounge. It is rooted, Danny can amend that if required.
The steps were a double edged sword, very very faster but cornering sucked even more. This thing was like a kangaroo on bad drugs.
In a straight line it was insane. Easy 80kmh but I'll never know as the gps is now at the bottom of the pond.

It was going very well, very fast and very straight. then there was a big ball of water and I got to see it right side up with no hatch.
A quick pull in by tennis ball and fishing reel revealed the true damage.

Hatch smashed open, gps gone ( not stuck in properly) side split and deck spit.
Both of these areas have very little internal framing.

My observations.
Stepped monos are fast.
My flood chamber never worked, my problem.
This hull was plagued with problems from day 1.

I have learnt a lot about monos and now know enough to know that I will not have a big one again. I still have my small mono and that is a hoot to drive and flip.

I did have a new prop on there today as I lost my m440 to the pond monster yesterday. The new prop is a stock 3 blader that I am lead to believe is off a SV.
On a 7XL and 4S this is an amazing power combination.

I will now take the guts from this hull and build a strong, heavier cat about 32-36"

I have learnt a lot about hull design and my construction methods during this build and run.
I want to thank all of you who helped me with this project and I'll now draw it to a close.

I'll be back soon with progress on a new XL powered (single) cat.

Thanks all. :beerchug:

[domwilson]

Sorry to hear about your gps. I'm sure it was an interesting and educational experience. I await your next build. I'd like to see your cat. Do you have any design ideas?

[crabstick]

bugger Man.. had a boo boo myself, kicked water into my futaba fasst radio this arvo when running my petrol cat at the beach, its not in bits after being washed with fresh hot water and put on the hot water cyl

again i say though, time for more ply in your boats now they are going fairly quick :bounce: You will survive such things.

[CornelP]

Sorry to hear that... I lost my first Wildthing because of the 100% balsa body. A small hit and it looks like an origami... with all the fiberglass and epoxy... Doing the hull in ply helped a lot on the second one, as the same hit (concrete bank, kids not careful...) only cracked the very tip. It is now redone and armed with a rubber nose!

[Simon.O.]

time for more ply in your boats now they are going fairly quick :bounce: You will survive such things.
I hope your radio gets better after a sit in the hot water cupboard.
I'll use a fair bit of ply on the next build and I'll do a lot more hardwood framing too.
Can you PM that supplier of ply again please.

I am still smiling even after todays losses. :thumbup1:

[CornelP]

Hey, we all know a loss like this is an invite for a new and better one...

[egneg]

That's a shame about the boat not to mention the loss of a GPS and prop. I have lost a GPS when my boat flipped and sank as well as a few props here and there. I did get the boat back with a fishing pole that had a treble hook and big lead weight. Everything was fine once it dried out.

[G Doggett]

Sorry to hear your mono is no more Simon.
Maybe it didn't appreciate all the strange things you did to its bottom.:olleyes:
You can borrow my GPS anytime you need.
Bit concerned you are talking about a 'SINGLE" engined cat !!!!!:ThumbsDown01:
Anybody can build one of those, a man with your flare for the unconventional should settle for nothing less the 2 motors !
Graham.:rockon2:

[Simon.O.]

Maybe it didn't appreciate all the strange things you did to its bottom.:olleyes:
I had a girlfriend that once.........never mind
You can borrow my GPS anytime you need.
Big offer, I hope I can afford it if I lose it.
Bit concerned you are talking about a 'SINGLE" engined cat !!!!!:ThumbsDown01:
Anybody can build one of those, a man with your flare for the unconventional should settle for nothing less the 2 motors !
Graham.:rockon2:

You think it will be a single for ever ?? maybe if it really screams on 1 can.
I am still keen to twin the little cat with a pair of 450 heli outrunners.

A new 30"+ Cat hull will cost me less than a esc. I'll do this new one as a single and make it so that I can/may retrofit a set of "L-size" cans in there later.

The 7XL is very keen to grab that SV prop again......it was wicked !!
I had a new wire drive in there too and that is a real success. :banana: