updated pics new paint and gutted hull

[brad65]

Ok guys it was a 5 min paint job so dont shot me LOL. I just wanted something quick and not white. I also gutted the hull and added some fiberglass with some cloth. Also I needed to find a new spot for the battery, so I sodder a parallel connect so I can split them on each side of the hull 2 (3s) 2200mah batterys on each side so . I'm now need to experiment with cg and turn fins. More time.

Oh and yes I lost my canopy caps, they blow off LOL>

[SweetZ28]

It looks good ...looks different that's for sure!

[brad65]

Thanks, how you making out with yours?

[SweetZ28]

I am going to leave it with a brushed motor for now I held the original rudder straight and put new proboat steering rudder on the back ...I still have to test it out.

[FE Wannabe]

Brad65,
Looks good. Much better than factory.
That makes me want to gut my cat too! :eek: I hope PETA isn't listening!:tape:

I hate the fact that the factory battery location is so high, making the boat so top heavy. Gutting it also makes it so much easier to install flotation as well. I almost sunk mine once. Did gutting it make the hull a lot weaker side to side? Was the tub that you cut out glued to the bottom hull?
Inquiring minds want to know???????? :biggrin:

Brad

[brad65]

Brad65,
Looks good. Much better than factory.
That makes me want to gut my cat too! :eek: I hope PETA isn't listening!:tape:

I hate the fact that the factory battery location is so high, making the boat so top heavy. Gutting it also makes it so much easier to install flotation as well. I almost sunk mine once. Did gutting it make the hull a lot weaker side to side? Was the tub that you cut out glued to the bottom hull?
Inquiring minds want to know???????? :biggrin:

Brad

I didnt' do anything to the stuffing tube, all I did was cut under the lip of the hatch and I left a little plastic and a piece of wood with blind nuts for the motor mount. I then fiberglassed with cloth the lower hull and added some support to the servo, and also added some velcro to the back and middle of the rear sides for battery placement.

-the way she drives-
I've never been happy with the way she drive! Reason being I can't get this apache setup right. Once it goes full speed it wants to kick right or left volently and flip at full speed, and sucks *** to turn. I need more time to ajust prop/strut angle and battery location. I'm about to rip out the stock stuffing box/rear rudder hinged shaft setup and put in my ul-1 hardware since I have no running gear in her anymore. I believe its the same hull as the BJ26 but scaled down 2". I read tons for threads on the blackjack and I'm not the only one having handling problems. I think I need turn fins and need to get rid of the u-joint rudder shaft setup. Just not sure what to do to help make her handle better. I wish I could get here to run good with the stock drive setup first. More time..:cursing:

[SweetZ28]

-the way she drives-
I've never been happy with the way she drive! Reason being I can't get this apache setup right. Once it goes full speed it wants to kick right or left volently and flip at full speed, and sucks *** to turn. I need more time to ajust prop/strut angle and battery location. I'm about to rip out the stock stuffing box/rear rudder hinged shaft setup and put in my ul-1 hardware since I have no running gear in her anymore. I believe its the same hull as the BJ26 but scaled down 2". I read tons for threads on the blackjack and I'm not the only one having handling problems. I think I need turn fins and need to get rid of the u-joint rudder shaft setup. Just not sure what to do to help make her handle better. I wish I could get here to run good with the stock drive setup first. More time..:cursing


:thumbup1: Do what i did to mine but leave the stock set up with the U joints being that it won't be twisting the U joint to turn anymore it should run faster...

Lock the stock turn fin in the straight position.. and use the $18.00 proboat steering rudder and put it on your boat like i did see photos this may make it run better... I have not run mine yet but most all guy's told me this way it will run faster and handel better also.

[brad65]

-the way she drives-
I've never been happy with the way she drive! Reason being I can't get this apache setup right. Once it goes full speed it wants to kick right or left volently and flip at full speed, and sucks *** to turn. I need more time to ajust prop/strut angle and battery location. I'm about to rip out the stock stuffing box/rear rudder hinged shaft setup and put in my ul-1 hardware since I have no running gear in her anymore. I believe its the same hull as the BJ26 but scaled down 2". I read tons for threads on the blackjack and I'm not the only one having handling problems. I think I need turn fins and need to get rid of the u-joint rudder shaft setup. Just not sure what to do to help make her handle better. I wish I could get here to run good with the stock drive setup first. More time..:cursing


:thumbup1: Do what i did to mine but leave the stock set up with the U joints being that it won't be twisting the U joint to turn anymore it should run faster...

Lock the stock turn fin in the straight position.. and use the $18.00 proboat steering rudder and put it on your boat like i did see photos this may make it run better... I have not run mine yet but most all guy's told me this way it will run faster and handel better also.


I was thinking this, it would prove out the slop in the rudder/prop area. I just might thanks bro, and get that thing in the water man!:thumbsdown:

[brad65]

drove her yesterday and adjusted everything, I finialy can run her full throttle with out spinning and then flipping. But its on the ragged edge , this little puppy move out! I know the problem lies in the rear rudder u-joint setup. Since there is so much play and slop in the rudder area it moves constainly. I don't know how BJ26 owned arent haven't similar problems with the extra slop and play back there. I need to gut her down more and install some type of flex shaft and rudder on the left or right side, hopefully soon. One problem I'm gonna have is I have a 1/4" motor shaft hope I can find something that will work.

[FE Wannabe]

Brad65,
What motor are you running, because the only motors that I know of that have that large of a shaft are much bigger motors like the KB45s. If it is an odd size Jeff Wholt who is a member here can make custom couplers of any size. You could PM him.

[SweetZ28]

drove her yesterday and adjusted everything, I finialy can run her full throttle with out spinning and then flipping. But its on the ragged edge , this little puppy move out! I know the problem lies in the rear rudder u-joint setup. Since there is so much play and slop in the rudder area it moves constainly. I don't know how BJ26 owned arent haven't similar problems with the extra slop and play back there. I need to gut her down more and install some type of flex shaft and rudder on the left or right side, hopefully soon. One problem I'm gonna have is I have a 1/4" motor shaft hope I can find something that will work.

I think you can leave it all stock just glue the turn fin rudder in the straight position...I used goop glue for mine.
and next get the $18.00 proboat aluminum rudder and put it on and see how it works...I think it will work this way you probably won't need aflex cable.

[brad65]

Ok, heres what I'd done that just about made me happy with the boat as a whole. I added the UL-1 rudder setup to the right side rear and locked the orginal rudder/ u-joint with metal strapping and epoxy.

NIGHT AND DAY DIFFERENCE.. I suggest everyone do this when thier apache is moving to fast for the hull like mine was. Wow, I can take turns with speed and not spin out or flip, and she stable at full speed. But I did lose quiet a bit of speed with the extra drag. (Thanks SweetZ28 for mention this, it was worth the time customizing her, not get out there are drive her with that setup you made) I'll take some picture soon and some video soon also.

FE Wannabe, I got it off ebay. I believe the listing was wrong something like 2600kv but i came with a lable 2816kv and 1/4" shaft.

[FE Wannabe]

Brad65,
Glad you finally got it working the way you wanted it. I do want to see some video soon. Do you think the better handling came from just the rudder install, or if it was a combination of the things that you did, like gutting the interior?
Can't wait to see a good handling Apache!

[brad65]

I believe keeping the prop ridged is key IMO. I wish I had the rudder directly behind the prop but this works good. I should be going out this week hopefully I can get some footage. FE, have u posted pics or videos of ur setup here yet? I'd love to see more apache mods.

[FE Wannabe]

Brad65,

Here are pictures of my idea for fixing the steering issues. I haven't tried it yet, I just finished the pushrod connection today. The nice thing about it is that it is very light weight and cheap. I used a CEN composite rudder $5 new and some scrap aluminum. We have to see how it works.

Brad

[brad65]

I like it, it looks great! I'll post some pictures tonight of what I did. What size flex cable did you use.

[FE Wannabe]

I like it, it looks great! I'll post some pictures tonight of what I did. What size flex cable did you use.

I used a .130 cable with a 3/16" prop shaft stepped down to 1/8" so I could run the smaller sized Octura props. It was fairly easy to install. I can post the step by step install process if you need it. I still think that the factory U-Joint could be robbing you of some power and placing a greater load on your motor. All I know is that when I converted from the U-Joint to the flex cable the boat ran a lot quieter.

I am hoping to run it in a couple days, I'll let you know how it goes.

[brad65]

I used a .130 cable with a 3/16" prop shaft stepped down to 1/8" so I could run the smaller sized Octura props. It was fairly easy to install. I can post the step by step install process if you need it. I still think that the factory U-Joint could be robbing you of some power and placing a greater load on your motor. All I know is that when I converted from the U-Joint to the flex cable the boat ran a lot quieter.

I am hoping to run it in a couple days, I'll let you know how it goes.

That would be great, I want to do this bad to my boat. I will make a coupling for the motor if I have to for the 1/4" shaft. But yes I would love some more help as to want I need to do this.

[SweetZ28]

:banana:COOL IT WORKED!!!
For the flex unit here is my post on the second page shows what i ordered to make it work...you don't need all i ordered just flex shaft teflon tube end connector and motor connector plus tubing..
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=1667

[FE Wannabe]

That would be great, I want to do this bad to my boat. I will make a coupling for the motor if I have to for the 1/4" shaft. But yes I would love some more help as to want I need to do this.

Brad,

My list of parts might vary from some others, you can "skin this cat" more than one way.
I used a .130 cable with a teflon liner, so I used 7/32" brass tubing for the hull from transom to motor.
I also used a stinger bushing in the outdrive so I drilled my outdrive to 1/4" and installed 1/4" brass tubing cut to length and then inserted a stinger bushing in the strut for the 3/16" prop shaft to run in. The stinger bushing holds grease better for increased lubrication.
Here is my parts list:

1 piece 7/32" brass tube
1 piece 1/4" brass tube
1 ea Stinger Sleeve bushing
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ros-spdsd-187

1ea .130 cable with teflon and 3/16" stepped down to 1/8" propshaft
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-oc64pkg

1ea motor/flex shaft coupler (motor shaft size x .130)

CA glue for securing teflon liner inside brass tubing
Epoxy for securing the new brass tubing to the hull.
7/32" drill bit for transom and motor mount end of brass tube to open the hole larger.
1/4" drill bit for outdrive to open the hole for the 1/4" brass tube.

I would follow Diegoboy's directions(below) on removing the stuffing tube on the link that Z28 provided but I would add one thing: if you carefully heat the stock stuffing tube with a soldering iron it will help the epoxy release its hold on the stuffing tube. Sometimes the epoxy will make a cracking sound when it starts to release. Just be careful how much heat you apply, because you more than most, know how thin the ABS hull is and you don't want to melt it. If you don't heat it, you have to twist the tube and the hull fairly hard for the epoxy to release.

Diegoboy's removal/install instructionswith my modifications:
Pull out the Motor
Pull out the drive shaft
Remove the strudder
Apply heat to stock stuffing tube with care.
Using needle nose pliers, Grab the stuffing tube in the boat, and twist to free it from the silicone or epoxy holding it in place. If it widens the opening in the transom a bit, don't worry because the new tube will be a bit bigger.
Pull the stuffing tube out through the back of the boat after it breaks loose.
Drill the transom hole for the tube with the 7/32" bit
Drill the other end with the 7/32" bit also
Cut the7/32" tube to the same length as the stock tube removed
Install the 7/32" tube in the hull, Use epoxy to hold it in place
Remove the brass bushings from the strudder (short piece at each end)
Drill the strudder with the 1/4" bit.
Measure and cut the 1/4" tubeto the length of the strudder (1 piece)
Install the 1/4" tube in the strudder and CA glue in place
Assemble the flex shaft (if needed)
Install the teflon liner in the stuffing tube, cut to length (to the back end of the strudder) CA glue in place
Grease and install the flex cable in the boat
Couple it to your motor that I forgot to tell you to install.
Add a prop... I think you can take it from there.
End of Diegoboy/FE Wannbe Instructions

I know this is a long post, but I wanted to be fairly thorough.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Brad

[brad65]

Oh lord, you guys are great. I will read through and go over everthing and diside what I'm gonna do. Guys post some videos of you Apache's running, we need play catch-up with our bigger brother LOL.

[FE Wannabe]

Oh lord, you guys are great. I will read through and go over everthing and diside what I'm gonna do. Guys post some videos of you Apache's running, we need play catch-up with our bigger brother LOL.

No problem Brad, glad to be of assistance.
I ran mine yesterday afternoon and I broke my .130 flex cable half way between the transom and the outdrive. After I brought it back in I could tell the outdrive had way too much of a positive angle and I think that put too much stress on the flex cable. I noticed that it was running a little slower than normal as well. I thought it might have been the new rudder setup causing the drag, but after the cable broke, I think it was the outdrive angle that caused the break.

On the plus side though, the inline rudder did save my prop shaft, prop, drive dog and prop nut when the cable snapped. In addition, the new rudder setup did turn a lot smoother without hooking, even with the high COG. I still think I will gut the interior to lower the COG. At least there is some progress.
I will see if I can get some video once I get my cable replaced.

Brad

[Diegoboy]

Brad,

My list of parts might vary from some others, you can "skin this cat" more than one way.
I used a .130 cable with a teflon liner, so I used 7/32" brass tubing for the hull from transom to motor.
I also used a stinger bushing in the outdrive so I drilled my outdrive to 1/4" and installed 1/4" brass tubing cut to length and then inserted a stinger bushing in the strut for the 3/16" prop shaft to run in. The stinger bushing holds grease better for increased lubrication.
Here is my parts list:

1 piece 7/32" brass tube
1 piece 1/4" brass tube
1 ea Stinger Sleeve bushing
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ros-spdsd-187

1ea .130 cable with teflon and 3/16" stepped down to 1/8" propshaft
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-oc64pkg

1ea motor/flex shaft coupler (motor shaft size x .130)

CA glue for securing teflon liner inside brass tubing
Epoxy for securing the new brass tubing to the hull.
7/32" drill bit for transom and motor mount end of brass tube to open the hole larger.
1/4" drill bit for outdrive to open the hole for the 1/4" brass tube.

I would follow Diegoboy's directions(below) on removing the stuffing tube on the link that Z28 provided but I would add one thing: if you carefully heat the stock stuffing tube with a soldering iron it will help the epoxy release its hold on the stuffing tube. Sometimes the epoxy will make a cracking sound when it starts to release. Just be careful how much heat you apply, because you more than most, know how thin the ABS hull is and you don't want to melt it. If you don't heat it, you have to twist the tube and the hull fairly hard for the epoxy to release.

Diegoboy's removal/install instructionswith my modifications:
Pull out the Motor
Pull out the drive shaft
Remove the strudder
Apply heat to stock stuffing tube with care.
Using needle nose pliers, Grab the stuffing tube in the boat, and twist to free it from the silicone or epoxy holding it in place. If it widens the opening in the transom a bit, don't worry because the new tube will be a bit bigger.
Pull the stuffing tube out through the back of the boat after it breaks loose.
Drill the transom hole for the tube with the 7/32" bit
Drill the other end with the 7/32" bit also
Cut the7/32" tube to the same length as the stock tube removed
Install the 7/32" tube in the hull, Use epoxy to hold it in place
Remove the brass bushings from the strudder (short piece at each end)
Drill the strudder with the 1/4" bit.
Measure and cut the 1/4" tubeto the length of the strudder (1 piece)
Install the 1/4" tube in the strudder and CA glue in place
Assemble the flex shaft (if needed)
Install the teflon liner in the stuffing tube, cut to length (to the back end of the strudder) CA glue in place
Grease and install the flex cable in the boat
Couple it to your motor that I forgot to tell you to install.
Add a prop... I think you can take it from there.
End of Diegoboy/FE Wannbe Instructions

I know this is a long post, but I wanted to be fairly thorough.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Brad

Wow! Good job!
http://www.addemoticons.com/emoticon/animated/AddEmoticons04230.gif

[FE Wannabe]

Thanks Diegoboy, I learned from the best, aka, you. Besides most of the content was from you, anyway.

[Diegoboy]

I like the details you added. It's awesome! :thumbup: