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View Full Version : Replacement ESC for the UL-1??



jingalls007
04-28-2009, 12:46 PM
I want to try some larger props but the last time I tried my X645 my stock ESC shut down and they had to send me a new one. SO what would be a decent controller that will handle the amp draw of the larger deeper pitched props? I'd prefer to spend less then 100$.. thanks

Brushless55
04-28-2009, 01:30 PM
Good question, I would like to know to..

jingalls, did your esc go completely dead or was is beeping when it shut down?

longballlumber
04-28-2009, 02:00 PM
I think you have a few options here...

If you’re going to buy a new speedo, I would suggest nothing lower than a 120 amp controller. If you take a look at the eagle tree data that LuckyDuc has been posting, the stock controller is taking some pretty high loads. The Etti 150 may be a good replacement but it is more than your $100 limit.

Another option would be to get another UL-1 speedo buy install an Etti cap board to help with the voltage spikes. I think there are a few people on the board that have actually tried this.

I on the other hand did something a little different. I actually bought some extra capacitors and added one on the battery side of the controller. I wouldn’t recommend this last option unless you’re comfortable with making these types of modifications. So far I haven’t had any problems with runner bigger props (42 X 55)

jingalls007
04-28-2009, 02:04 PM
My ESC would arm but once i put the boat in the water it would go about 20 ft and then shut down again. Hobby services sent me a new ESC but I don't want to burn that one up so I was thinking a Turnigy 120 amp controller.

jingalls007
04-28-2009, 02:08 PM
I think you have a few options here...

If you’re going to buy a new speedo, I would suggest nothing lower than a 120 amp controller. If you take a look at the eagle tree data that LuckyDuc has been posting, the stock controller is taking some pretty high loads. The Etti 150 may be a good replacement but it is more than your $100 limit.

Another option would be to get another UL-1 speedo buy install an Etti cap board to help with the voltage spikes. I think there are a few people on the board that have actually tried this.

I on the other hand did something a little different. I actually bought some extra capacitors and added one on the battery side of the controller. I wouldn’t recommend this last option unless you’re comfortable with making these types of modifications. So far I haven’t had any problems with runner bigger props (42 X 55)

Thanks for the feedback. What are your thoughts on Turnigy controllers? A 120 amp controller for 70$?? Seems a little cheap to me but I don't know anything about these controllers.

longballlumber
04-28-2009, 02:17 PM
Thanks for the feedback. What are your thoughts on Turnigy controllers? A 120 amp controller for 70$?? Seems a little cheap to me but I don't know anything about these controllers.

Sorry, I don't know much about them. Perhaps someone else will chime in.

LuckyDuc
04-28-2009, 02:33 PM
It only has two cooling inlet junctions on it. You would have to re-work your plumbing to accomodate it. I know many people who fly airplanes with their ESCs and like them very much. I do not have any personal experience with their ESCs though. I was considering the Etti 150 sold by OSE for a replacement in the event I need one.

jingalls007
04-28-2009, 02:35 PM
It only has two cooling inlet junctions on it. You would have to re-work your plumbing to accomodate it. I know many people who fly airplanes with their ESCs and like them very much. I do not have any personal experience with their ESCs though. I was considering the Etti 150 sold by OSE for a replacement in the event I need one.

Well for 70$ I think I may try one, ill let you know the outcome as a possible "inexpensive" upgrade for the UL-1.

detox
04-28-2009, 02:37 PM
If I were you I would install a sharpened and balanced Grimracer L40 x 57 and let it ride using the stock UL-1 esc. This prop will do 50mph with right setup and good water conditions.



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jingalls007
04-28-2009, 02:47 PM
I spent almost 2 hours sharpening and balancing that prop the other night, (and an hour when I first got it) my plan is to try it tonight see what happens. I could not get on plane to save my life with the L40X57 prop initially so hopefully now (razor sharp) I can get it up and moving. I really want to put back on the X645. That prop turned the UL-1 into a screamer, I want that again but safely without burning anything up so hopfeully the 120 amp turnigy will take it.

detox
04-28-2009, 02:53 PM
My Grimracer prop gets on plane quickly. Be carefull and do not remove TOO much material from prop while sharpening.

LuckyDuc
04-28-2009, 04:08 PM
Try 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and the L40x57 should get on plane better.

jingalls007
04-28-2009, 04:26 PM
cool, will try it tonight.

jingalls007
04-28-2009, 11:18 PM
Try 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and the L40x57 should get on plane better.

so not sure what the issue is but i cannot get my boat to plane with the 40x57. I tried it all, strut up, strut down, strut all over the place and boat acted the same. So I will stick with the stock prop for now until my new props arrive. Thanks for all the input Duc.

detox
04-29-2009, 08:11 AM
This is strange...my L40 x 57 gets on plane very quickly. Sounds like you may have sharpened prop incorrectly. Double check and make sure everything is tight and not slipping (collet on cable, collet on motor shaft, drive dog on propeller shaft).


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Capt. Crash
04-29-2009, 08:11 AM
My 40X57/3 will not get the boat on plane unless I goose it to get out of the hole then let way off and let it hook up. This will take a few yards. I have my prop depth at 14-15/16" or about where the boat came setup originally. If I lower the prop down some, to 1" it hooks up faster and easier.

Have you sharpened the prop?

detox
04-29-2009, 08:17 AM
My prop depth is 1 1/8"

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jingalls007
04-29-2009, 01:13 PM
This is strange...my L40 x 57 gets on plane very quickly. Sounds like you may have sharpened prop incorrectly. Double check and make sure everything is tight and not slipping (collet on cable, collet on motor shaft, drive dog on propeller shaft).


..............

I've been balancing and sharpening my props for 5 years now so I know it's sharp enough and balanced correctly. Im going to drop the strut down an 1 1/4" and start from there. I'll try that tonight.. the stock carbon prop is the same prop as the copper 40X57 so I didn't think I would have to drop the strut that much but that's what I'll do tonight. thanks for thelp guys!!