First run with the UL-1

[brad65]

Hey guys, I've been staring at the UL-1 in the lhs for months now and I decided to ask if he would let it go cheaper. Needless to say I go it for 285!:rockon2: First thing I did was make my own alum sleeve water jack (stock one is a piec of crap do to the thread caps are way to big need a much higer tolerance). I desided to lube the shaft and go through everything. Other than that I left it stock and wanted to just try it out. Also I'm running 4000/5000mah size 2s lipos (maxamps) on the stock prop. Man that stock prop sucks reminds me of my sv27 when I had the stock prop on it LOL. I notice I couldn't steer as much as I wanted to so I drilled another hole in the servo horn and gave myself a tighter steering radius. On my second run I installed a GrimmRacer 42*55mm 2 blade prop. All I can say is night and day difference almost 0 cav and she moves out big time! I didn't get to check the temps because the set screw in the motor coupling came loose (blue loketite is my friend). So, will I be ok with that large of a prop? Also does the 2 blade hop more than a 3 blade prop? Sorry guys, I'm a newbie two hydro's. I've read alot on the ul-1 and I'v worried about the hull cracking :confused2:

[detox]

My three favorite props are Grimracer L38 x 55, L40 x 57/3, and Octura m440. The three blade L40 x 57/3 prop seems to handle ruff water better.

Your 42 x 55 is probably veryclose to borderline of being safe to run with the weak UL-1esc. A seperate BEC may help ESC live longer using larger props than recomended by Aquacraft.


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[brad65]

I hear ya, I didn't even want to go full seed with the 42 it seem way to crazy. I just like the none cav it gave me. I will have to try some of those you mentioned thank you

[bwells]

I've been around boats all my life but new to RC boats. It has been my understanding that a 2 blade prop is for speed and a 3 blade was for power, out of the hole for pulling a skier. Does this change for RC boats?

[CircusCircus]

I've been around boats all my life but new to RC boats. It has been my understanding that a 2 blade prop is for speed and a 3 blade was for power, out of the hole for pulling a skier. Does this change for RC boats?


This is True, typicallly a 2 blade is faster in the straight runs and slower in the turns, while the 3 blade is faster in the corners and slower on the straights.

[sewerpit]

hey circus you have any pics of your AZ boats how do you like them

[brad65]

Today I deside to try a 40/52mm grimmracer 3 blade today, seem better than the stocker nice speed nothing to crazy. But I lost my canopy, can I run with out one does it effect the airflow? Also can I run with out the tail fins also?

[Meniscus]

...But I lost my canopy, can I run with out one does it effect the airflow?

At higher speeds it will effect airflow, but I'd be more concerned about a blow-over. Do you use hatch tape and how did you lose the hatch? For the future, attach flotation to the underside of the hatch. Then you can at least fish it out in the event the tape pulls off and it comes off, but I've yet to see this happen when taped properly.

Please consider not running without a hatch...that is unless you have all of the extra parts such as motor, batteries, ESC, servo, etc. laying around and you're willing to lose it all. Also keep in mind what happens to lipos when they get wet.

I don't want to come off as insulting, but rather just wanted to make sure you consider the consequences.

Only a recommendation though :popcorn2:

[brad65]

all good, I did tape the canopy to the bottom, I guess it wasn't enough. I hear ya I do want another one, I just looked up the price 33 bucks damn! I notice there was alittle foam inside of the nose piece guess it wasn't enough ethier. That sucks I watched it disappear into the water and I didn't want to go swimming ethier.

[Meniscus]

So how did the canopy come off? Did it flip? Did you tape all around? And finally, what kind of tape did you use?

[brad65]

Ok I didn't tape all around, I'm guessing I should have I just put two pieces of electrical tape on the bottom to hold it in place. Yes I flipped here, I got no water at all inside include the hull also. I like the way this boat seals it very simple. I ordered the canopy her, it was to winding and I was pushing it. Anybody want to explain or show me the best way to attach this bad boy up? And how to fix the crack in the hull by the turn fin.

[longballlumber]

Darin has a nice explination on how to fix the turn fin area. Personally I chose to go thru the bottom of the sponson ride pad. However, I was planning on re-sheeting the sponson bottoms anyhow...

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=6249

[brad65]

wow I just went through the four pages. Man thats alot of detailed work he did. I'm thinking there has got to be any easier way like cutting that hole out of the hull in the same spot and add some fiberglass and some resin to reinforce that wall. If there are strong enough bolts in the hull to hold the turn fin mount then I'll like to reinforce just the wall and the ajcents walls. Bad idea?

[longballlumber]

Like I mentioned in the other post, I did mine a little different than Darin did on his. I should have taken pictures, but I didn’t my bad. I used the blind nuts (or T-nuts) into a new wood backing plate, but I also increased the size of the fasteners to 6-32 SHCS too. I was worried about stripping out the threaded aluminum plate that is installed from the factory. The material they used was to thin for my liking. I preferred more thread engagement. The other thing about using the blind nuts, they are typically made of stainless steel, which would be much stronger.

I am not saying that your idea of simply putting in my glass and resin won’t work; I just wanted to make sure that I wouldn’t need to fix this area again. Mine is maybe a little over kill, but I do know that it is going to take some major wreck before I will need to fix the turn fin area again.

Let us know if you have any questions.

[detox]

This is how I strengthened my turnfin area:

Loctite makes a syringe type 5min Epoxy (Homedepot sells this) that has the self mixing tips. I removed my Turn fin bracket then injected a whole syringe of this stuff into both screw holes in rear of sponson. I then quickly attached my mounting bracket before epoxy hardened (be sure to put grease on back side of bracket and screws so epoxy will not stick to them). Work quickly and set boat on stern (boat pointed strait up) so all of the epoxy will settle on inside rear of sponson. Done

My turnfin area is holding up verywell.


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[sewerpit]

i did the same thing detox did and its holding up great, only ran the boat two times and it really takes a pounding on turns but its holding up great.

[Darin Jordan]

Is this still necessary on the recently received boats? I thought this had been fixed? My buddy got one and he reports that this area is as rigid as can be...

[Capt. Crash]

I don't know if it's been fixed...I've read nothing, heard nothing....seen nothing on it!

I do know my double epoxy injection fixed the backing plate area but I developed cracks everywhere else to include this latest one.

Oh...my boat has a lot of miles on it already...well over 50 since I injected it.

[detox]

Is this still necessary on the recently received boats? I thought this had been fixed? My buddy got one and he reports that this area is as rigid as can be...

I received my UL-1 months ago when it first came out which is why I did this mod. I did notice that Tower has the UL-1 on backorder till mid May...hopefully the new shipments are the better ones (improved cooling jacket and reinforced turnfin area).


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[jingalls007]

I don't know if it's been fixed...I've read nothing, heard nothing....seen nothing on it!

I do know my double epoxy injection fixed the backing plate area but I developed cracks everywhere else to include this latest one.

Oh...my boat has a lot of miles on it already...well over 50 since I injected it.

Mine also fixed the issue and I made absolutely sure, when pouring in the expandable foam, to coat the turnfin area. Now the entire hull is harder as rock with minimal weight added.

[brad65]

I'm trying gorilla glue in this turn fin area. I've had great luck with strenghten landing gears with giant scale rc planes. So when it hardens its very hard foam. We shall see. I'll let you guys know on that. Now how do you set the strut hight and angle I'm gonna stick with the 40/52mm 3 blade for the time being I just need to set the hight and angle. Also can I run with out the turn fin I don't race and I understand it will help in turning but will I be able even to steer at all without it?

[Drag Boat Bob]

Is this still necessary on the recently received boats? I thought this had been fixed? My buddy got one and he reports that this area is as rigid as can be...

Here is the one I received just last Wed.

They didn't send the correct color either, but I was willing to take it anyway, until I found the crack.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2479946

[brad65]

Well it's hard, hard as a rock now. I love gorilla glue. Now I know the small plate inside is permintly in place with weak nuts/alum plate inside. But the structure is rock solid. Now I need to make a larger foot print bracket to spread to surface load out. I will use welders glue once new bracket is install and if that's brakes off the boat well I must have hit a brick wall LOL. Anyway im so happy with the gorilla glue that I'm thinking of using it else where. Any other areas I need to know about??

[Capt. Crash]

Here is the one I received just last Wed.

They didn't send the correct color either, but I was willing to take it anyway, until I found the crack.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2479946

Ya'll don't think they are turning around some of these damaged boats and reselling them do ya? It just amazes me that this issue continues! And to send someone the wrong color too! :doh:

[Capt. Crash]

Well it's hard, hard as a rock now. I love gorilla glue. Now I know the small plate inside is permintly in place with weak nuts/alum plate inside. But the structure is rock solid. Now I need to make a larger foot print bracket to spread to surface load out. I will use welders glue once new bracket is install and if that's brakes off the boat well I must have hit a brick wall LOL. Anyway im so happy with the gorilla glue is was thinking of using it else where. Any other areas I need to know about??

Yea...I never thought about the Gorilla glue...it works great on everything else but you have to use it sparingly because it expands. Not a problem inside the hull. It does say you need the parts to be damp first...did you do that? I'm thinking about injecting some into my fin area on top of the epoxy.

[brad65]

Yea...I never thought about the Gorilla glue...it works great on everything else but you have to use it sparingly because it expands. Not a problem inside the hull. It does say you need the parts to be damp first...did you do that? I'm thinking about injecting some into my fin area on top of the epoxy.

Yes, I pored a cap full of water in and moved it around first. I can't begin to tell you how hard this stuff hardens. It expanded just the right amount IMO. It did not hurt the hull at all. I'm thinking about poring some more glue in other area, but its gonna suck patching up the holes. I'm already thinking not to use epoxy! I'm in love with welders glue since it can flex, epoxy cracks with something flexable. I might make a small plexy glass piece so I can see inside LOL. I've also made a 2024 alum mount that will have way more surface area than the stocker. I will also use welders glue on the bottom of the new mount and with the stock two week screws I believe I should be fine.

Now can someone show me how to measure the strut angle, please:bowdown:

[LuckyDuc]

I might make a small plexy glass piece so I can see inside

That is what I did after making the reinforcements to mine.

[brad65]

That is what I did after making the reinforcements to mine.

Nice job, I feel better! I thought I made my hole to big LOL. That looks very tin plexy glass. Looks good!:thumbup1:

[Capt. Crash]

...me thinks just a piece of clear duct tape would work just fine if the hole is kept to a size smaller than the width of the tape. I would need 3 holes...one port, one starboard and one forward to fix the leading edge mess. With all the glue I've already applied I'm not sure what would be the best patch material. I definitely want to beef up the backing plate and trade out the turn fin bracket bolts with something better.

I'm thinking I need to glass as much as of the sponson as I can get to on the turn fin side since it's already cracked in so many places.

I can't wait to see the mess I made with the epoxy injections. :doh:

Thanks for the idea LuckyDuc!

[LuckyDuc]

Nice job, I feel better! I thought I made my hole to big LOL. That looks very thin plexy glass. Looks good!:thumbup1:

It is actually the plastic material from the packaging on one of my children's toys. Plexy glass can be a PITA to work with for such a small piece. Tape would work fine too.

[LuckyDuc]

I'm thinking I need to glass as much as of the sponson as I can get to on the turn fin side since it's already cracked in so many places.

I can't wait to see the mess I made with the epoxy injections. :doh:

Thanks for the idea LuckyDuc!
I used 1.5oz SIG fiberglass and Z-poxy finishing resin to strengthen mine. 10 layers on the inside and 2 on the outside. A little over kill perhaps, but I didn't want to repair it twice.:laugh:

[brad65]

I used 1.5oz SIG fiberglass and Z-poxy finishing resin to strengthen mine. 10 layers on the inside and 2 on the outside. A little over kill perhaps, but I didn't want to repair it twice.:laugh:

Damn dude that great also.:thumbup1:

[detox]

Guys,
You can also drill small holes in the sponson area then inject whatever type of glue you choose using a disposable syringe like this one. I like using 30 minute epoxy mixed with fiberglass. I puchase five of these syringes for odd jobs like this one.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGG7&P=7


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