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View Full Version : UL-1 Eagle Tree data with Grimracer L40x57 3 blade prop



LuckyDuc
04-23-2009, 11:54 AM
I managed to squeeze 3 runs in with my new Grimracer L40x57 3 blade prop.

Initial thoughts on the prop are…
----------------------
1. It runs very consistent laps of 45-42mph with much lower average amp draw than the Octura m445 and the stock prop. For reference, the m445 and stock prop data can be found in this thread: Link (http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=7379)

2. It is much more difficult to get up on plane than the stock prop and the m445. I found it best to hand launch start with this prop.

3. It took MUCH more file work to get the prop balanced, thinned, and sharpened.

Below is the Eagle Tree data with speed and amp draw for my most consistent heat run.

I will post the fastest run data (47mph) in the next post.

LuckyDuc
04-23-2009, 11:56 AM
This is the fastest run so far with the L40x57.

Darin Jordan
04-23-2009, 12:17 PM
This is the fastest run so far with the L40x57.

I think you may want to stick with the other prop... looks like this one was faster in the straights, but your average speed dropped off quite a bit... Prop isn't getting you off the corners as hard and is dropping off more in the turns, from what I can tell with a quick look at the data...

Gotta LOVE this EagleTree data... :rockon2:

detox
04-23-2009, 07:45 PM
Gotta LOVE this EagleTree data... :rockon2:

What he said. Big Thanks!


............

LuckyDuc
04-23-2009, 08:34 PM
Happy to contribute.:tiphat:

Next on the testing block will be the GrimRacer L42 x 66 and the Prather S220.
The Prather may cook her in normal race setup.:eek: .... Good excuse to upgrade the ESC I guess.;)

**** As a disclaimer I should mention that I'm using an external 6v ParkBEC to take the step down work off the stock ESC.

longballlumber
04-24-2009, 07:55 AM
Happy to contribute.:tiphat:

Next on the testing block will be the GrimRacer L42 x 66 and the Prather S220.
The Prather may cook her in normal race setup.:eek: .... Good excuse to upgrade the ESC I guess.;)

**** As a disclaimer I should mention that I'm using an external 6v ParkBEC to take the step down work off the stock ESC.

WOW... both of those will be alot of prop... I am going to try the L38X55 this weekend for heat racing.

Drag Boat Bob
04-24-2009, 09:46 AM
Happy to contribute.:tiphat:

Next on the testing block will be the GrimRacer L42 x 66 and the Prather S220.
The Prather may cook her in normal race setup.:eek: .... Good excuse to upgrade the ESC I guess.;)

**** As a disclaimer I should mention that I'm using an external 6v ParkBEC to take the step down work off the stock ESC.

You may have to name your boat, "Smoke On The Water"... :ohmy:

Darin Jordan
04-24-2009, 10:05 AM
Just keep in mind, guys... the UL1 system is NOT an SV27 or BJ26 system... it will NOT take as much prop as those other two setups... it's working with RPMs as opposed to torque... Take it too far and "Puff"...

Drag Boat Bob
04-24-2009, 10:54 AM
On the positive side, LuckyDuc is willing to push the equipment to the limit (which all real racers do) and identify the weakest link... Information that some of us would like to see :popcorn2:

LuckyDuc
04-24-2009, 10:58 AM
So far I haven't pushed the power system beyond that of the stock prop setup. Below are the stats for the stock prop.

The L42x66 may be the limit though.... We shall see what happens:popcorn2:
If it does go into melt down I will make sure to dub Smoke on the Water into the video ;)

I should be testing more heat oriented props, but this is more fun:banana:

longballlumber
04-24-2009, 12:01 PM
Having fun is the best part!!!! Thanks for sharing all of you data. :beerchug:

detox
04-24-2009, 07:45 PM
There will be no smoke. It will just die on water. Swollen Capacitor.

Drag Boat Bob
04-25-2009, 06:08 PM
There will be no smoke. It will just die on water. Swollen Capacitor.

Detox, when you popped a cap, did you replace your ESC with the same one?

Also, can you get inside the stock one?

detox
04-25-2009, 09:32 PM
Detox, when you popped a cap, did you replace your ESC with the same one?

Also, can you get inside the stock one?

Aquacraft sent me a new esc.

Old damaged Stock ESC in photo has rubber coating on ends of a hollow rectangular cooling jacket.

Drag Boat Bob
04-25-2009, 10:59 PM
Aquacraft sent me a new esc.

Old damaged Stock ESC in photo has rubber coating on ends of a hollow rectangular cooling jacket.

I'm sorry; I meant can you get to the electronic/circuit board components inside the ESC?

detox
04-26-2009, 12:29 AM
I do not think so.

Brushless55
04-26-2009, 12:05 PM
Have you tried the S220 yet?

LuckyDuc
04-26-2009, 04:03 PM
Not yet. The L42x66 and Prather S220 just arrived yesterday. I'm almost done B/S the L42x66. Then I will start filing on the S220.

detox
04-26-2009, 10:15 PM
LuckyDuc, New batteries will make your UL-1 haul Ace. The Maxamps 2s 30c 5250 packs would be quicker than your older 4s packs.
http://maxamps.com/categories.php?cat=8


...

jingalls007
04-26-2009, 10:36 PM
I have these packs and my boat hauls ass on them. I don't have a gps (in the bottom of the lake) but it looks quite a bit faster then most UL-1 videos I see on youtube with 25c lipos. It could be because video makes things look smaller and slower?? Duc, if you can swing a few of these packs you'll be very happy and we'll get to see the difference with your nifty eagle tree data...thing.

Brushless55
04-27-2009, 12:16 AM
I'm only getting 40.4mph with my 5000mah 12c spc packs :ThumbsDown01:

jingalls007
04-27-2009, 12:26 AM
I'm only getting 40.4mph with my 5000mah 12c spc packs :ThumbsDown01:

12c?? it's highly suggested to run 20c or better in the UL-1. your in Colorado right? hit me up if your ever down around Wash Park, we can meet up with Jesse J and Camel and runnnnnn the boats.

LuckyDuc
04-27-2009, 09:46 AM
LuckyDuc, New batteries will make your UL-1 haul Ace. The Maxamps 2s 30c 5250 packs would be quicker than your older 4s packs.
http://maxamps.com/categories.php?cat=8


...
I'll have to give those packs a try. I just hate buying lipo packs that I can only use in one vehicle.

jingalls007
04-27-2009, 10:46 AM
I'll have to give those packs a try. I just hate buying lipo packs that I can only use in one vehicle.

Maxamps also make a 6500mAh pack in the 30c. I have the 5250 30c's and love them. I get 10 minutes of full throttle run time and still have about 7.5 volts left on the pack when i get home. I will try to get a video later today (it's snowing right now but weather changes quick in Colorado as you know) so you can see the difference between the 25c and 30c packs.
http://www.maxamps.com/products.php?cat=46

detox
04-27-2009, 04:32 PM
**** As a disclaimer I should mention that I'm using an external 6v ParkBEC to take the step down work off the stock ESC.


What was the purpose of doing this? Do you think this protects your ESC from popping a capacitor?

LuckyDuc
04-27-2009, 05:05 PM
What was the purpose of doing this? Do you think this protects your ESC from popping a capacitor?

Most of the built in BECs that you find in ESCs are linear. Linear BECs are not as efficient at stepping down the voltage for the receiver as switching mode BECs. As a result, many ESCs tend to build up excess heat and fail when used with 4S or higher voltage packs. I learned my lesson a few years ago with EDF jets. I now use external switching mode BECs in all of my RC gear that utilizes 4S or higher packs. I haven’t lost an ESC due to BEC failure since.
Castle Creation makes one, as do other companies. I prefer Dimension Engineering’s ParkBEC. Link (http://www.dimensionengineering.com/ParkBEC.htm)

External BECs are cheap insurance :thumbup1:

Brushless55
04-27-2009, 05:22 PM
Just got my bec in the mail today and will be putting it on my UL-1 just in case...

detox
04-27-2009, 05:33 PM
Most of the built in BECs that you find in ESCs are linear. Linear BECs are not as efficient at stepping down the voltage for the receiver as switching mode BECs. As a result, many ESCs tend to build up excess heat and fail when used with 4S or higher voltage packs. I learned my lesson a few years ago with EDF jets. I now use external switching mode BECs in all of my RC gear that utilizes 4S or higher packs. I haven’t lost an ESC due to BEC failure since.
Castle Creation makes one, as do other companies. I prefer Dimension Engineering’s ParkBEC. Link (http://www.dimensionengineering.com/ParkBEC.htm)

External BECs are cheap insurance :thumbup1:

Thanks for the explanation.

Drag Boat Bob
04-27-2009, 05:33 PM
LuckyDuc,

Does the ESC still provide input voltage to the BEC or are you using and external source?

Drag Boat Bob
04-27-2009, 05:44 PM
I found the installation file and figured it out... :doh:

LuckyDuc
04-27-2009, 05:55 PM
LuckyDuc,

Does the ESC still provide input voltage to the BEC or are you using and external source?

There is a positive and negative lead coming off of the BEC than gets soldered onto the ESC's battery leads. The ESC's receiver wire is then plugged into the BEC, and then the BEC is plugged into the receiver's ESC channel.

LuckyDuc
04-28-2009, 10:47 PM
Data for the Grimracer L42 x 66 is now available. Link (http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=7593)

LuckyDuc
05-01-2009, 10:39 AM
I put the Grimracer L40x57x3 back on yesterday and started tweaking my setup. After reading that Detox had his strut set at 1 1/8" I did the same. Bam! She gets right up on plane now. Thanks Detox!

It is SUPER consistent lap to lap and very stable. I’m averaging 40mph now! Check out how consistent it is in the chart.
I also hit 52mph with it on my second run.

detox
05-01-2009, 10:51 AM
You can see on the graph batteries are dropping off and boat is slowing. The new G3 batteries advertise flat consistant discharge before hitting LVC stutter.

LuckyDuc
05-01-2009, 11:21 AM
You can see on the graph batteries are dropping off and boat is slowing. The new G3 batteries advertise flat consistant discharge before hitting LVC stutter.
Here is a chart of the same run with speed AND pack voltage. The lowest voltage my packs hit under load was 14.33 volts. That is pretty good considering the amp draw on this power system.

All packs loose voltage during use. I'm sure that the G3s have a curve similar to the one in the chart below... it just may have less voltage loss... Hard to say with out testing them.

BTW. I've been running 3 x 4s 2250mAh packs in parallel for a total of 6750mAhs, and a continuous discharge capability of 135amps for the last 2 weeks. :spy:
I should have mentioned that sooner in the spirit of full disclosure I guess:o

LuckyDuc
05-01-2009, 11:40 AM
Pic of my battery layout and mess of wires :olleyes:

Also, the parallel connector I made with 12 guage wire, 5.5mm bullet connectors. This connector stays perfectly cool BTW. The hot temps are coming from the ESC side.

jingalls007
05-01-2009, 11:43 AM
Duc, is the stock controller in there somewhere?

LuckyDuc
05-01-2009, 11:50 AM
Duc, is the stock controller in there somewhere?
LMAO!!!:roflol:

Yeah. It's under the rat's nest... just follow the cooling tubes:laugh:

detox
05-01-2009, 12:08 PM
LuckyDuc, What is the weight of your ready to run UL-1?

Capt. Crash
05-01-2009, 12:20 PM
...that was a 10 lap run right?

Those are very similar results to my runs except I have to pull a full rudder 180 turn at one end of my course that really scrubs off the speed and tortures the turn fin.

Interesting that you are finding more speed at 1 1/8" and I'm going the other way and finding mine at 14-15/16". Must be a difference in the strut angle of attack? I would rather be at your setting because it's a lot easier to get hooked up.

Anyone tried de-tonguing this prop yet?

LuckyDuc
05-01-2009, 12:41 PM
LuckyDuc, What is the weight of your ready to run UL-1?

6lbs 2.6oz (98.6oz)
For you metric guys... 2.796 kilograms

She looks light as a feather on the water

LuckyDuc
05-01-2009, 12:44 PM
...that was a 10 lap run right?

Those are very similar results to my runs except I have to pull a full rudder 180 turn at one end of my course that really scrubs off the speed and tortures the turn fin.

Interesting that you are finding more speed at 1 1/8" and I'm going the other way and finding mine at 14-15/16". Must be a difference in the strut angle of attack? I would rather be at your setting because it's a lot easier to get hooked up.

Anyone tried de-tonguing this prop yet?
Yes. 10 laps.
Most likely... I am getting more speed than you at 1 1/8" because I have 6750mAhs backing up the voltage.

Capt. Crash
05-01-2009, 01:19 PM
Yes. 10 laps.
Most likely... I am getting more speed than you at 1 1/8" because I have 6750mAhs backing up the voltage.

Rip...that is what I was thinking too...but the specs on the MaxAmp 5250 is pretty impressive.

# 45mm X 138mm X 18mm
# 30C Constant(157.5 amps)
# 60C Burst - 2330 surge watts(315 amps)
# 241 grams
# Water-sealed for all-weather protection
# Comes standard with Hyperion taps
# Comes standard with 12awg Deans Ultra wire
# Highest performance in the industry

I think my prop sharpening skills may have something to do with it too! :doh:

Brushless55
05-01-2009, 01:35 PM
...that was a 10 lap run right?

Those are very similar results to my runs except I have to pull a full rudder 180 turn at one end of my course that really scrubs off the speed and tortures the turn fin.

Interesting that you are finding more speed at 1 1/8" and I'm going the other way and finding mine at 14-15/16". Must be a difference in the strut angle of attack? I would rather be at your setting because it's a lot easier to get hooked up.

Anyone tried de-tonguing this prop yet?

What batteries are you running?

Capt. Crash
05-01-2009, 01:50 PM
What batteries are you running?

a pair of the above Maxamp 5250s.

jingalls007
05-01-2009, 01:55 PM
a pair of the above Maxamp 5250s.

I also run the same and love em', plus the more you order from maxamps the cheaper they get!

Brushless55
05-01-2009, 02:04 PM
Ok well you got the amps for sure..

I just picked up a pair of 5200mah 30/40c batteries and got alittle over 6mph more with them!

detox
05-01-2009, 03:30 PM
I also like Maxamps batteries, but you can buy two of the new Hyperion G3 35c lipo's for roughly the same price of one simular Maxamp lipo.

I just ordered two of these 4s packs for my UL-1, Raptor Rigger, and Brushless Emaxx.
http://www.allerc.com/product_info.php?cPath=3_4_93&products_id=4550



.....................

Capt. Crash
05-01-2009, 03:45 PM
What does 25/45C mean?

25C constant/45C burst?

The link is for a 4s 3300mah pack @ $104.00ea...is that the one?

If so, the price is a wash for me cause I get a 15% discount on the $120.00 MaxAmp packs bringing them to somewhere around $100.00 ea.

Those G3s are 5C better and a good deal more amps for 2, but weigh more. A really great looking pack. Let us know how they work.

Next month there will be something even better! Ain't it great!

jingalls007
05-01-2009, 04:09 PM
I also like Maxamps batteries, but you can buy two of the new Hyperion G3 35c lipo's for roughly the same price of one simular Maxamp lipo.

I just ordered two of these 4s packs for my UL-1, Raptor Rigger, and Brushless Emaxx.
http://www.allerc.com/product_info.php?cPath=3_4_93&products_id=4550



.....................

can't wait to see the difference from your 25c packs to these 35c monsters. Video? Please?

detox
05-01-2009, 04:24 PM
What does 25/45C mean?

25C constant/45C burst?

The link is for a 4s 3300mah pack @ $104.00ea...is that the one?

Thats the one. HYPERION G3 VX 14.8V 4S 3300 MAH 35C/65C LIPOLY PACK (4s2p 6600mah)
I will compaire them against my Hyperion G3 2S 5000 MAH 25C/45C. (4s1p 5000mah)


............

Brushless55
05-01-2009, 05:02 PM
Wow! That's alot of juice!

LuckyDuc
05-01-2009, 06:03 PM
Those look like some nice packs. You will definitely see an improvement with 6600mAh 35C packs. You might melt off the insulation on your motor leads though. I did. I'm on my second coating of heat shrink tubing now:cursing:

detox
05-01-2009, 08:02 PM
I am using Castle's beafier 4mm male bullet connectors on motor wires so maybe heat will not be a problem.


...

LuckyDuc
05-01-2009, 10:31 PM
Cool:cool: Keep an eye on them and you shouldn't have any problems.