Feigao 540XL in UL-1 !

[Brushless55]

Just wondering if anyone has tried a Feigao XL in a UL-1?

I have a 6XL in my Erevo and that truck is nuts on 4s and outright stupid on 6s! :w00t:

that motor keeps looking at me like it want's to go into the UL-1 ! :rockon2:

Not sure if I should try it or not? :unsure:

[detox]

6xl is too hot using 4s lipo in the UL1. Perfect if using 3s lipo (3s2p)

[Brushless55]

I was thinking of that..
I have two 3s I could run parallel, the same way I run my truck on the track..

[detox]

I was thinking of that..
I have two 3s I could run parallel, the same way I run my truck on the track..

Awsome. A Hydra 120 should work easily with that combo

[Brushless55]

Great to know..
What about the stock esc, would it work?

[detox]

I doubt it.

[jingalls007]

Anyone's thought's on a 540XL using 4s and a 120 amp ESC in the UL-1?

[Rumdog]

Can't beleive no one's doing this yet

[Brushless55]

That's why I'ma askin.. :rockon2:

[rcboatfan]

just try it man!!!!

[Brushless55]

just try it man!!!!


First I want to work on my Mean Machine...
single SV motor setup, and then I might try a twin! :banana:

[Xfactor]

Im sure it will work but you probably need to step down to a 40mm or under prop maybe even a switch from x6xx series to x4xx series if a x6xx series is what you currently run.I think you could run 6s lipo on a 9xl with like a x432 thru 1732 series prop. All 32mm ,but youll probably cavitate. That's over 6oooo rpm at almost 3 hp.The motor will likely get warm too.A SAW set up?

[Brushless55]

3hp only if the motor is pulling the amps....
32mm on this hull possibly not a good idea..
9XL on 6s is about the same as a 6XL on 4s for rpm
an 8XL would be a great choice on 4s or even a 7XL on 4s would be awesome to!

[Xfactor]

Oh it can pull 100 amps but it will get warm

[Rumdog]

9xl on 6s is waaay too hot! No good!

[Diesel6401]

Anyone's thought's on a 540XL using 4s and a 120 amp ESC in the UL-1?

I'm in the process of this right now. So far motor is installed (7xl) and esc is soldered and ready to go (turnigy aquastar 120amp). I should be able to run this weekend. I've been out of town last few days and didn't have a chance to run it, but it is 97% complete. I also have a upgraded flexshaft and will be running a grim 40x57/3 and also try a x440/3. I'm going to try is on 2 2s1p's to start and I am going to order 2 4s batts and run them in parallel. I have to place a order for the 4s's though. :thumbup: I have holes cut out to try to splay the batteries through the sponsons and I also have a airdam ready to install if need be. I will play with different lipo configurations to see what works best. I am also going to pick up a garmin foretrex 301 gps on sunday. I will post video as soon as I can, prob monday or tuesday if weather works with me.

[Brushless55]

9xl on 6s is waaay too hot! No good!

I agree, I think that could cause issues, and trying to fit 6s in a UL-1

[Brushless55]

I'm in the process of this right now. So far motor is installed (7xl) and esc is soldered and ready to go (turnigy aquastar 120amp). I should be able to run this weekend. I've been out of town last few days and didn't have a chance to run it, but it is 97% complete. I also have a upgraded flexshaft and will be running a grim 40x57/3 and also try a x440/3. I'm going to try is on 2 2s1p's to start and I am going to order 2 4s batts and run them in parallel. I have to place a order for the 4s's though. :thumbup: I have holes cut out to try to splay the batteries through the sponsons and I also have a airdam ready to install if need be. I will play with different lipo configurations to see what works best. I am also going to pick up a garmin foretrex 301 gps on sunday. I will post video as soon as I can, prob monday or tuesday if weather works with me.

Oh man, that sucker is going to fly! :rockon2:

[Steven Vaccaro]

I have a coupler customers running 540 7xl's and hydra 240's. So far they are happy. No gps speeds from them.

[Brushless55]

maybe just for fun, I should try the 6XL I have lying around...
not sure what prop to try with it though? :confused2:

[Steven Vaccaro]

I would start with a Octura x438. Hopefully its large enough to lift the transom. If not stop right away and go a bit larger.

[Diesel6401]

Oh man, that sucker is going to fly! :rockon2:

Yea I can't wait to try it out.

[Brushless55]

I would start with a Octura x438. Hopefully its large enough to lift the transom. If not stop right away and go a bit larger.

Hey thanks Steven! :thumbup1:

[Fruity]

9XL on 6S -- Will need more than 120 amp esc, I run this combo in my Sv27, and twin in a H&M Maritimo, need at leat 180 amp esc, and start a little smaller on the props. should be OK.

If you are in doubt, go to 10XL on 6S.

Cheers...Tim:beerchug:

[Brushless55]

9XL on 6S -- Will need more than 120 amp esc, I run this combo in my Sv27, and twin in a H&M Maritimo, need at leat 180 amp esc, and start a little smaller on the props. should be OK.

If you are in doubt, go to 10XL on 6S.

Cheers...Tim:beerchug:

no one is looking to run a 9XL on 6s in this hull...
I'm thinking of trying a 6XL on 4s with a 200A esc

[Diesel6401]

no one is looking to run a 9xl on 6s in this hull...
i'm thinking of trying a 6xl on 4s with a 200a esc

whoa...

[Brushless55]

It could be a good run, or it could go wrong :w00t:

[Diesel6401]

I had a issue with routing the wires, but I think I figured it out. This is just a mock up and I still have a few more things to do, but it looks promising.

[Brushless55]

It's looking good!

[ncornacchi]

[QUOTE=Brushless55;84288]Just wondering if anyone has tried a Feigao XL in a UL-1?

Here is my UL1 with a 540 7XL, Etti 150, JW wire drive, custom dual water pickup rudder a friend makes for me. Boat is under-propped, running a grim 40x57

[ncornacchi]

Now, here is the hot setup.....a Nue 1515/1Y/S, Castle Creations 240LV, 4S, dual water pickup rudder, JW .078" wire drive..Grim 40x57/3, under-propped again (having a real hard time understanding and choosing the right prop) Cavatates at first, then when she hooks up, look out, starts dancing and chine walking...i'm going to air dam her today and eagle tree the speed...BTW, the dual water pickups are amazing,,after running hard and soft for full duration of 5400mAh batteries, the esc and motor aren't even warm to the touch...i think i hit a home run on the rudder setup.....

[ncornacchi]

now this is an even better setup: Nue 1515/1Y/S, 4S, CC 240LV, JW .078" wire drive (I'll never go flex again), custom dual water pickup, under-propped again with a 40x57/3 Grim (still don't know what to use for a prop)..I think I hit a home-run with the dual water rudder design, when i run this hard and soft for full duration of 5400mAh, the motor and ESC aren't even warm to the touch..Today I will be installing an air dam and the eagle tree to check speeds

[ncornacchi]

Sorry, same boat, double post....

[detox]

Try the new ABC 1518 3 blade prop or ABC S-15 2 blade prop then hold on. You will need to add more weight in front of the hull to reduce chine walk.


...

[Jeff Wohlt]

If that is a Etti 2mm coupler it could slip. Did oyu get that from me? It looks differnt than an Etti. . A person can rough the wire up a bit to help but let me know if it does and I will get you something else.

Just check the wire and see if it is shiney after running some laps and that will tell you. You really do not need the twin thrust bearing on that. It could be causing some drag for you at the strut.

Nice friggin ride buddy!

[Fluid]

BTW, the dual water pickups are amazing,,after running hard and soft for full duration of 5400mAh batteries, the esc and motor aren't even warm to the touch...i think i hit a home run on the rudder setup.....

Actually your motor and ESC are cool because you are under-propped and the boat is running so loose. All the rudder does is supply water (which is pretty cold this time of year); it does not take much to cool a motor pulling low amps. With a larger prop and warm pond water your results may vary.

BTW, the thrust bearing on the strut is a bad idea. First, because it is larger than the strut it will cause a lot of drag and prop cavitation. Even worse, when the flex cable winds up it shortens, putting the whole cable in a bind adding drag and eventually pulling the strut out of alignment. Take the thrust at the motor mount and be certain to leave a gap equal to the cable diameter between the drive dog and the strut.



.

[Diesel6401]

Here is my UL1 with a 540 7XL, Etti 150, JW wire drive, custom dual water pickup rudder a friend makes for me. Boat is under-propped, running a grim 40x57

What's your strut depth on this setup?

[Brushless55]

[QUO?

Here is my UL1 with a 540 7XL, Etti 150, JW wire drive, custom dual water pickup rudder a friend makes for me. Boat is under-propped, running a grim 40x57

you think the boat is under propped with the 40x57?
what are you going to try next, and have you put a gps in it to see how fast?

[Diesel6401]

Try the new ABC 1518 3 blade prop or ABC S-15 2 blade prop then hold on. You will need to add more weight in front of the hull to reduce chine walk.

...

You had a AoA build thread a little while back to help reduce the chine walk. I did the battery splaying mod that properchopper mentioned to my ul. It really reduced the chine walk, but speed really suffered. I am going to have to figure something out with the 7xl because the chine walk is only going to get worse.

[Jeff Wohlt]

He is running a wire drive. Contraction is virtually nothing. I still leave 1/8" in mine at the strut.

[Diesel6401]

I set the strut depth to 1 1/16" and strut angle is neutral as possible. Too much? I will be using 2x 2s and 2x 4s lipo's with a 40x57/3. I'm thinking I may need to come down a little bit for the lighter 2s and maybe more depth for the 4s's, is this proper thinking?

[detox]

I have ran as much as 1 3/16" strut depth . Works well with everything. Reread your UL-1 instruction manual...IT HAS LOTS OF VALUABLE INFO.

[Diesel6401]

I have ran as much as 1 3/16" strut depth . Works well with everything. Reread your UL-1 instruction manual...IT HAS LOTS OF VALUABLE INFO.

Yea I ran pretty deep with the stock set-up before. I just can't wait till get this thing in the water and start testing.

[Brushless55]

Yea I ran pretty deep with the stock set-up before. I just can't wait till get this thing in the water and start testing.

I can't wait either man! :rockon2:

[ncornacchi]

Try the new ABC 1518 3 blade prop or ABC S-15 2 blade prop:: Thanks Detox, I'll grab these props and hope to get them tuned by Egneg. I also had written in my notes from this past winters posts were the 2047 or the M448...I'm still a newbie and still don't understand the whole prop setup dia/pitch/cupping magic....wish there were a simple comparison chart

[ncornacchi]

COLOR="Red"]If that is a Etti 2mm coupler it could slip. Did oyu get that from me?[/COLOR]
Jeff, That's your wire drive, I got the coupler from Steve...No slip, thanks for the tip...I have to say that your drives are Superior, I just can't get over how true it was and how smooth it sounds when you wind her up....Don't know if you noticed, but at the motor end of the shaft, I first inserted a copper reducing sleeve (inside fitting collar from a brass compression fitting taken apart bought at home depot) , glued on a rubber vacum cap, left stock teflon liner in place, grease packed entire shaft until it spit out the rubber cap with .078 hole, and slid your drive in...not a drop of water and no grease sling..:thumbup1:[

[ncornacchi]

BTW, the thrust bearing on the strut is a bad idea
Fluid, I agree that the ftust bearing at strut was a silly idea, if I could have found a lesser diameter bearing, I would have kept it on, but right now, I thinks its' only adding to her chine walk problems. There's a bit of weight up front already (two crashes, lots of glass on sponsons) She's getting too much air, I'm gonna air dam her...Struts' been from 1" to 1-3/16", as you guys know, a 1/16" difference makes a huge change

[Jeff Wohlt]

Glad to hear you like the wire. Good mods also you did. I save all my rubber caps like that for the seal at the motor...or use shrink.

I have some new struts coming that will be CNC and not cast. They will also have ceramic bearings in them. Not cheap but they will be the best out there and virtually no maintenance. The wire drives really benefit from bearing struts.

I stopped using teflon but am thinking of getting more for the stock set ups for the UL1 stuffing tube. I still think it takes some of the wear and noise out of it and gives it a smoother run.

I spun up my 8XL cat last night on 4S and only running a 062 wire but it has the double lock on it. Even just in brass she sounded good.....I know...never hold her WFO for long but I was testing the bearings in the strut. Smooth as could be. Hard not to let her wind up a bit. I was bad but what the heck.

Running all 2.4 Tactic in my boats now...no more holes for the annteny.

New 30C cells coming so can't wait to throw her in the water next week.

[detox]

Try the new ABC 1518 3 blade prop or ABC S-15 2 blade prop:: Thanks Detox, I'll grab these props and hope to get them tuned by Egneg. I also had written in my notes from this past winters posts were the 2047 or the M448...I'm still a newbie and still don't understand the whole prop setup dia/pitch/cupping magic....wish there were a simple comparison chart

I am not too sure about the S15 working with your setup, but if it does hang on. Stay away from the 2047 if you do not know what you are doing. M445 is a tried and true prop for your combo.

4s2p would be safer on esc than your 4s1p. The higher the discharge rate and mah the better


...

[Brushless55]

Maybe I could try a Medusa 3670 2300kv on 4s. :tongue_smilie:
I also have this motor lying around..

[ncornacchi]

I am not too sure about the S15 working with your setup, but if it does hang on. Stay away from the 2047 if you do not know what you are doing. M445 is a tried and true prop for your combo.

4s2p would be safer on esc than your 4s1p. The higher the discharge rate and mah the better


...

Thanks for the info Detox, I've been on this site for over a year now, and there is a circle of few like you that, when they advise, you best listen.....I am going with the M445, and the 4S2P setup just might keep the nose down a bit.....Norm

[ncornacchi]

Jeff, Could you let us know when those struts are in? Would love to try them..

[Jeff Wohlt]

I will let you know. Should have them in a couple days and then they go to machining for the bearings.

[GIESDOG]

dang the inside of that thing looks like a power plant... sweeet! I bet that its not slow! any top speed info. referencing post #30

[Diesel6401]

Well the weather wasn't on my side and neither was the lake, their was a lot of chop in the water but I got a test run in today and let me say OMG. This looks very VERY promising. Most of the run was at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle due to the weather and only ran for about 3 minutes before it caught wind flipped in air then landed right side up with the hatch half untaped.. After it flipped and landed I had no response from the boat with my radio. After me saying WTF for about 5 seconds it finally responded and I brought it in and it was full of water. I dried everything out and tested the electrics and everything looks like it survived crash. Video hopefully tomorrow, no gps yet but may be able to get radar gun speeds. I think the esc dropped offline for a second and it had to rearm, at least thats what I hope. The little bit of WOT i did have was a BLAST.

[ncornacchi]

Diesel, No lie, the same thing happened to the Blue UL-1 yesterday. Grabbed air, flipped, and the hatch tape peeled back a couple of inches. Peddle-boated out, when I got her open, just a little water, no worse than some sloppy setups...here's the stupid part: I saw a little condensation under the clear wrap on the castle 240 this morning B4 I left for work, so I blew some compressed air into both sides....and now when I try to arm, I get unfamiliar beeps and only rudder, no throttle...I think I may have forced the water deeper inside the CC240...I am so mad at myself...this thing was rocken....was hoping for an easy 60+ and probbablly had her close, but I wouldn't brag unless I had the EagleTree logging it..that was my next step.

[Diesel6401]

Diesel, No lie, the same thing happened to the Blue UL-1 yesterday. Grabbed air, flipped, and the hatch tape peeled back a couple of inches. Peddle-boated out, when I got her open, just a little water, no worse than some sloppy setups...here's the stupid part: I saw a little condensation under the clear wrap on the castle 240 this morning B4 I left for work, so I blew some compressed air into both sides....and now when I try to arm, I get unfamiliar beeps and only rudder, no throttle...I think I may have forced the water deeper inside the CC240...I am so mad at myself...this thing was rocken....was hoping for an easy 60+ and probbablly had her close, but I wouldn't brag unless I had the EagleTree logging it..that was my next step.

I sprayed CFC Free contact cleaner all over the electrics and batteries after I dried them. It's a electrical contact cleaner that we use in the airlines on aircraft connectors that are exposed to the elements i.e. landing gear electrical connections when they get moisture/gear grease inside of them. Works like a champ. Man you got me thinking I should run back out to the shop and re check my esc even after I sprayed it. Matter of fact BRB...lol

[ncornacchi]

Yeah, I'm also going to try to clear all programming on the CC...at least I'm getting some beeps and its not DOA.....Kills me to buy a $200 esc and see it get all freaked out over a little moisture.....When I was building them both this winter, I was kinda comparing which was the better esc...I have to say, the Etti150 w/caps bank in orange boat is still working fine, I just dont see the Fieago overtaking the Nue in speed...I miss my blue UL already..

[Diesel6401]

I just took the esc out of the boat and going to let it set out over night. I wasn't submerged or anything just a little wet so im praying it will be ok. Since it did respond a few second later and worked on the bench after I think it will be just fine. I hope your is OK hate to see your CC die. I just don't have the money for a CC or Etti esc at this time or a Neu motor for that matter. This is the esc I run and I have to admit with the program box I really really like this esc even though today was the first run :tongue_smilie:

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10626&Product_Name=Turnigy_AquaStar_120A_Water_Cooled_ES C

[Brushless55]

great price on that esc, D!

[Diesel6401]

Yeah, I'm also going to try to clear all programming on the CC...at least I'm getting some beeps and its not DOA.....Kills me to buy a $200 esc and see it get all freaked out over a little moisture.....When I was building them both this winter, I was kinda comparing which was the better esc...I have to say, the Etti150 w/caps bank in orange boat is still working fine, I just dont see the Fieago overtaking the Nue in speed...I miss my blue UL already..

:iagree:

I hope it all works out for you.

[Diesel6401]

great price on that esc, D!

Thanx buddddddddddddy. I'll let you know how it goes and if it's worth your time/money. Knowing HC & the Turnigy label i'm sure it is.

[Diesel6401]

Well I got the video up on youtube, not the best but runs but just testing. I just got my stock pile of batts from HC in today so I will try two 4s in parallel also I will try different battery postions and see what works best. Damn I NEED MY GPS ASAP... lol, I WANT SPEED CHECKS....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELmjwLeOzIk

[Brushless55]

Oh man!
looks fast... :rockon2:

[Colby]

Nice vid ... looks like it hauls ... any readings on the speed?

[wizard122]

Looks good Dale can't wait to run together soon

[wizard122]

You guys should get some spray lube with PTFE in it like Super lube water proofs most anything
http://www.super-lube.com/ I use it in my RX and servo works great

[Diesel6401]

Thanks for all the positive comments guys. Next I will try the 4s 3600mah 30c's in parallel and I will try 2s 4000mah 40c's in series. I really think the 4s is gonna be the winning ticket. I need the weight. I never had a blow over on my ul with the stock setup, since the new motor it's happened 3 times. I have a airdam standing by, but I hope the 4s is the fix for catching air. It was a blast running it.

[Diesel6401]

You guys should get some spray lube with PTFE in it like Super lube water proofs most anything
http://www.super-lube.com/ I use it in my RX and servo works great

I wonder if spray liquid electrical tape would work as well. I have some laying around in the shop.

[Diesel6401]

Nice vid ... looks like it hauls ... any readings on the speed?

Not yet, but I would guess like 150mph... :just-kidding:

As soon as I get my new gps which I will order this week (tomorrow is pay day :banana:), I will post some speeds for it and my sv with ul power.

[Brushless55]

I wonder if spray liquid electrical tape would work as well. I have some laying around in the shop.

I like that spray on my rx's
works great :thumbup1:

[Diesel6401]

I like that spray on my rx's
works great :thumbup1:

SWEEEEEET!!!! I'll put some on the my rx's this weekend then. Glad to know it works :thumbup1:

[ncornacchi]

I must be interpertating something wrong....I wanted to buy the ABC 1518/3 blade, but it looks to me like the dia. is only 38.1 ( 1518-10-75(3) CLL 1.5 1.8 2.700 38.1 68.58 10 0.75 L 3 0.187 $29.95) The Grim is a 40mm ....I bought the M445 to get something to try until I can figure out the prop sizing mystery...

[ncornacchi]

I also think that the rudders that I had made may be contributing to the transom hop..I think the blunt end was causing too much lift....I had my buddy hone down the bottom edge to reduce resistance...see what happens this weekend..thanks for tip on contact cleaner guys, got the CC240 back to life last night!

[Brushless55]

yes, the blunt end will cause lift...

[Diesel6401]

I must be interpertating something wrong....I wanted to buy the ABC 1518/3 blade, but it looks to me like the dia. is only 38.1 ( 1518-10-75(3) CLL 1.5 1.8 2.700 38.1 68.58 10 0.75 L 3 0.187 $29.95) The Grim is a 40mm ....I bought the M445 to get something to try until I can figure out the prop sizing mystery...

Higher kv motor sometimes need smaller dia props to allow the motor to spool up more without putting to much of a strain electrics. Bigger props on higher kv motor is a lot of load. One of the recommended props for the ul is a 38x55. It's a smaller dia, but it's a lifting prop which you need on hydro. I personnaly like the l40x57 a whole lot. I may try the 38x55 or maybe even a 38x63 down the road. It's kinda like higher kv motors have less torque and more top end and need a smaller prop and lower kv motors have higher torque and lower top end and can swing a bigger prop with no problem. At least I think that's kinda how it works, I may be wrong :tongue_smilie:

[detox]

L40 x 57 is slightly faster than L38 x 55 in the stock UL-1. I did try the 38 x 63 some, but it seemed slower also. Some guys like the x642, but I never tried that prop. X442 is a good one to try also.

[Diesel6401]

I also think that the rudders that I had made may be contributing to the transom hop..I think the blunt end was causing too much lift....I had my buddy hone down the bottom edge to reduce resistance...see what happens this weekend..thanks for tip on contact cleaner guys, got the CC240 back to life last night!

Glad it all worked out for you. This is what we use in the airlines http://www.drillspot.com/products/1023940/lps_03116_cfc_free_electro_contact_cleaner_electro nic_chemical?s=1

as you can see by the price it is another reason airlines are broke as joke. Theirs probably 3 cases of this stuff sitting in the hangar at all times. We don't order from this place, this is just to show the product.

[Diesel6401]

L40 x 57 is slightly faster than L38 x 55 in the stock UL-1. I did try the 38 x 63 some, but it seemed slower also. Some guys like the x642, but I never tried that prop. X442 is a good one to try also.

Thanks for the great info as always.