11.1 lipos on UL-1

[slyman]

Has anyone tried a couple of 11.1 lipo's on the UL-1? Could I use the stock motor and ESC?

[detox]

I think the max you can use is 5s (one 11.1 volt 3s pack + one 7.4 volt 2s pack = 18.5 volts).

[Fluid]

You'd fry the ESC pretty quick, and it would not be that good for the motor either. There is really no need to do it, you can go faster than the hull can handle with 4S.



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[Darin Jordan]

We had TWO club members at different times put TWO 4S packs into stock SV27s... thinking they were wiring them in parallel... They were REALLY, REALLY fast for about 30-seconds... ;) A couple of the few SV27 ESCs I've ever whitnessed failing... :doh:

The UL1 is PLENTY, PLENTY fast on two 2S packs (4S).... you'd be better off learning to tune props if you need more speed...

[slyman]

I was a newbee with an SV-27 and 2S lipos. I knew I was in trouble when I brought the boat in and the batteries were twice there normal size almost too hot to handle.

I did some research and ended up changing the stock ESC with one from a Blackjack 26. Boat runs great with new 2S lipos and the BJ ESC but feeling the need for speed I got a couple 11.1 3S lipos and the boat really rips. I ran it for about five minutes with no problems. This was the last run of the season befor the lake I run on froze over.

Over the winter Mrs. SANTA got me a UL-1 and I was wondering if I could do the same type of setup on that.

[Fluid]

Every post in the thread has told you no. Why do you even bother asking? Do whatever you want, good luck!



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[no stick]

I think the max you can use is 5s (one 11.1 volt 3s pack + one 7.4 volt 2s pack = 18.5 volts).

Hook those up in series and plug into your voltmeter and report back as to the voltage you get. You'd be suprised?:doh:

[Flying Scotsman]

Fluid, you have my sympathy. Unfortunately, a lot of the young turks do not know who you are and the experience that you have. Jay and others, if these people do not want to take some advice, which will enhance their initial FE boating experiences. What do you do?.
I suggest that a person seeking advice, receive no reply, unless they have stated the basic facts to the area they are questioning...hulls...motors...ESC etc. and then their goal and are you a newbie on the topic!

Douggie

[Doby]

Yes you can use 2 3S packs,,you can also hook up Qty 2, 5S packs in series for 10S total.....Run times may vary.....

[Jeff Wohlt]

10S? Not a chance.

Maye a 2s and 3S in series but that would be max.

[Darin Jordan]

I know what I'm doing, and this thread confuses me... :blink:

Look... the boat and ESC were designed to run 4S... You MIGHT get away with 5S, but you would be money AND performance ahead to just spend $15.00 and get the right prop, then tweak and tune on that... THAT is where you are going to see the most performance gain...

[Doby]

10S? Not a chance.

Maye a 2s and 3S in series but that would be max.

Understand :sarcasm1: as my post was intended.

[properchopper]

Yes you can use 2 3S packs,,you can also hook up Qty 2, 5S packs in series for 10S total.....Run times may vary.....

For this setup, It's best to hook up a 12V deep-cycle RV battery to the transmitter
to prevent any damage to the boat's electronics as well as eliminating any run-time worries. :tiphat:

[Jeff Wohlt]

Maybe the flag in the post would be better.

[Doby]

Would have thought that most people could have figured that out,,,,oh well.................

[yudruln8]

how fast do you want to go i run mine with a 440/3 prop fastest its gone is 47 and the prop isn't even balanced it runs 3 or 4 min full thottle and i get two runs out of the one 4s 4800 mah i just bought a m445 from steve sharpen and balanced im gonna see how fast i can get it to go with the m445 but im waitng till the wind dies down its been windy the last couple of days

[properchopper]

how fast do you want to go i run mine with a 440/3 prop fastest its gone is 47 and the prop isn't even balanced it runs 3 or 4 min full thottle and i get two runs out of the one 4s 4800 mah i just bought a m445 from steve sharpen and balanced im gonna see how fast i can get it to go with the m445 but im waitng till the wind dies down its been windy the last couple of days

You'll love the performance/speed with the M445. Rockets right up on plane. May want to look into a small air dam & adding some weight in the batt box.

[Flying Scotsman]

how fast do you want to go i run mine with a 440/3 prop fastest its gone is 47 and the prop isn't even balanced it runs 3 or 4 min full thottle and i get two runs out of the one 4s 4800 mah i just bought a m445 from steve sharpen and balanced im gonna see how fast i can get it to go with the m445 but im waitng till the wind dies down its been windy the last couple of days

An m445? this should be fun!
A word of FE wisdom, balance your prop or the drivetrain will be destroyed.

Douggie

[properchopper]

An m445? this should be fun!
A word of FE wisdom, balance your prop or the drivetrain will be destroyed.

Douggie

Douggies right. The stock cable/bushing interface is pretty loose to begin with & mine wore the bushing after @ 15 runs. And my props are well balanced. Replaced with Octura .150 cable { stronger & way less windup} and the Speedmaster STRUT bushing [ not the STINGER bushing]. Had to shorten it and slim it down some. Available here at OSE. Way less power robbing vibrations :biggrin:

Cool Runnings, Bro

[longballlumber]

I found that my strut bushing was binding on the stock stub shaft badlly too.

[Flying Scotsman]

I have also observed that the original cable drive system is not of high quality. But to be fair this is a RTR boat and you get what you pay for.
Grrim, after all is said and done ...BRAVO ... to your design.

Douggie

[Capt. Crash]

I've been waiting on some one to get upgraded cables in stock...such as...OSE Upgraded AquaCraft UL-1 Cable. Any idea when this is going to happen or do I need to just forget it and upgrade to the Octura?

Guess I need to check my strut bushing too! It has plenty of runs on it....probably around 50 or so. What exactly do I look for here?

[Apples1]

i was going to run 10s in mine with a tweaked prop but then figured that 160MPH maybe a little quick. will just go with 8s :sarcasm1:

[yudruln8]

An m445? this should be fun!
A word of FE wisdom, balance your prop or the drivetrain will be destroyed.

Douggie

the m445 i bought from steve is sharpend and balanced

[Flying Scotsman]

[QUOTE=yudruln8;75159]the m445 i bought from steve is sharpend and balanced[/QUOTE

You ran your drivetrain as you stated with a prop that was not balanced. You may have damaged the motor and all other drive components.

Douggie

[properchopper]

I've been waiting on some one to get upgraded cables in stock...such as...OSE Upgraded AquaCraft UL-1 Cable. Any idea when this is going to happen or do I need to just forget it and upgrade to the Octura?

Guess I need to check my strut bushing too! It has plenty of runs on it....probably around 50 or so. What exactly do I look for here?

Use an Octura, it's likely what the upgraded UL-1 is, although you'll need to cut it to the proper length.

Wiggle the prop up & down & see how loose it wiggles. The tighter the better without binding. A few SHORT blips on the bench should tell the tale; if it buzzes loudly you may want to re-bush. The fit & clearance of the Octura shaft & Aeromarine strut bushing is just perfect in my experience. A well balanced prop makes a big difference as well.

[properchopper]

i was going to run 10s in mine with a tweaked prop but then figured that 160MPH maybe a little quick. will just go with 8s :sarcasm1:

LMAO :bounce:

[longballlumber]

What exactly do I look for here?

Crash, I would look for any "over abundance" of slop at the prop end of the strut and strut bushing. There is no hard fast rule that the bushing is wore out.

Too tight of a fit and you’ll be binding the drive line. This will decrease RPM, speed, etc... Too loose and the vibration will start to "oval" out the bushing surface.

With all of that being said, a properly lubricated flex shaft (including stub), strut bushing, and B/S propeller this system should last for a LONG time. You mentioned 50 runs. I have no reason to believe anything needs replacing, as long as everything has been properly lubricated.

[Capt. Crash]

Thanks guys...I pulled the bushing last night and it does have a little side to side slop and appears to be slightly out of round. I keep my drive shaft well lubed. Do I need to pull the bushing each time and lube the outside of it too? With the holes in it, I would think it already gets it's fair share. I probably will need a new bushing real soon...but I hate to place these 1 part orders where the shipping cost more than the part.


Ha...the shaft is out of stock....what's new!

[longballlumber]

Again,

Are we talking about 1/32" or 1/8" movement???? I would expect 1/32" maybe 1/16"

This is my rule of thumb. I lube before race day. Our race days include 3 heats. A lot depends on the viscosity of the lube you’re using. I have seen some use ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid). That stuff is pretty runny. I would be re-applying that lube after every run. People like to use that because it is "lighter". The theory is its less resistance on the drive.

Now I use something that is thicker http://www.lubriplate.com/products/auto-and-marine.html But, I can run 3-4 times before I reapply.

Don't get me wrong, there are many many products that will work fine. Just make sure you use it. (I am saying this for everyone’s benefit not directly at Crash)

Check out this website http://woodrcboatproducts.com/ Steve Wood makes an oil reservoir that attaches to your stuffing tube that automatically oils the shaft. Different strokes for different folks.

I will come down to a maintenance thing. If it’s done on a regular basis then you should be fine.

[Capt. Crash]

I use a thin film of Grim Racer Speed Grease on the UL1 shaft. I re-lube after each day of usually 4-6, 1 mile ea runs. The play in my bushing is somewhere in the 1/32 to 1/16" range...probably closer to the 1/32"side.

I also use the below in my other boats...the reel oil is great for u-joints and gears and in places you can't get the thicker grease. I also use it on my Crackerbox boat shafts before I add the Speed Grease.