How to remove anodizing from hardware

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  • longballlumber
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Apr 2007
    • 3132

    #1

    How to remove anodizing from hardware

    Has anyone tried to remove the black anodizing yet? I know there are certian chemicals that will remove it, but it can also pit the aluminum. I might try sand blasting too. Anyone else have better suggestions?
  • Meniscus
    Refuse the box exists!
    • Jul 2008
    • 3225

    #2
    Longballlumber, here is one of the more recent discussions related to your question:

    http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ead.php?t=6440
    IMPBA: 7-Time FE World Record Holder "Don't think outside the box. Rather, refuse to admit that the box exists in the first place!"

    MGM Controllers - Giant Power Lipos - ML Boatworks - Wholt's Wire Drives & Struts - Nano-Oil

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    • longballlumber
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Apr 2007
      • 3132

      #3
      Thanks,

      I should have done a search before posting...

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      • Meniscus
        Refuse the box exists!
        • Jul 2008
        • 3225

        #4
        No problem, we all do it! At least I know I do!
        IMPBA: 7-Time FE World Record Holder "Don't think outside the box. Rather, refuse to admit that the box exists in the first place!"

        MGM Controllers - Giant Power Lipos - ML Boatworks - Wholt's Wire Drives & Struts - Nano-Oil

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        • EATMYWAKE
          certified dumbass
          • Feb 2009
          • 30

          #5
          sand blast it and wet sand what ever you were guna remove the anodizing from. go from 400-600-800-1000-1500-2000 grit and after the 2000 grit use mothers aluminum polish. it should look almost like chrome if not the same, after your done... otherwise, the easy off should work....
          Last edited by EATMYWAKE; 02-20-2009, 08:32 PM.

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          • Meniscus
            Refuse the box exists!
            • Jul 2008
            • 3225

            #6
            IMPBA: 7-Time FE World Record Holder "Don't think outside the box. Rather, refuse to admit that the box exists in the first place!"

            MGM Controllers - Giant Power Lipos - ML Boatworks - Wholt's Wire Drives & Struts - Nano-Oil

            Comment

            • egneg
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Feb 2008
              • 4670

              #7
              Sodium Hydroxide (draino) will work but the water needs to be 160 degrees for best results. Put a table spoon in a shallow non aluminum or glass pan and stir - the parts need to be moved around to keep fresh chemicals in contact with the surface. After a few minutes check the parts - when done they will be a dull grey and ready for polishing.

              WARNING!!!: this is harsh stuff and rubber gloves and goggles are required. Also this needs to be done in a well ventilated area as the gas given off is very nasty!
              IMPBA 20481S D-12

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              • Meniscus
                Refuse the box exists!
                • Jul 2008
                • 3225

                #8
                Originally posted by egneg
                Sodium Hydroxide (draino) will work but the water needs to be 160 degrees for best results. Put a table spoon in a shallow non aluminum or glass pan and stir - the parts need to be moved around to keep fresh chemicals in contact with the surface. After a few minutes check the parts - when done they will be a dull grey and ready for polishing.

                WARNING!!!: this is harsh stuff and rubber gloves and goggles are required. Also this needs to be done in a well ventilated area as the gas given off is very nasty!
                So you do have a hot plate in the garage!
                IMPBA: 7-Time FE World Record Holder "Don't think outside the box. Rather, refuse to admit that the box exists in the first place!"

                MGM Controllers - Giant Power Lipos - ML Boatworks - Wholt's Wire Drives & Struts - Nano-Oil

                Comment

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