PDA

View Full Version : Ran My UL-1 Today...



detox
02-07-2009, 05:27 PM
Using my heavy Maxamps 8000mah packs (these packs barely fit and measure 145mm x 45mm wide x 35mm high) and detunged Octura 645 the UL-1 boat was incredably fast. Do not know for sure how fast, but nearly twice as fast as using the stock prop and smaller 4900 mah batteries. I did have one problem after running the boat for about 10laps... the UL-1 shut down. Im thinking the 645 prop is too large causing the ESC go into overload protection. I was also using a lot of on and off throttle which I know will cause overheating. After about 10 minutes of cooling off the ESC operated like normal again.

Even with the heavy batteries the boat ran a little loose on sponsons and did chime walk some, but this can be fixed maybe with deeper prop depth, prop angle, and COG. I did not use air dam...the extra weight of these large batteries kept boat from going airborn.

Here's a couple of mods I did to the boat afterwards. During run I noticed very little water coming from water outlet, so I installed a home made 3/16' aluminum motor cooling coil. Also check out the upward angled 1/8" aluminum water outlet...water exit should be easier to see now. I also noticed that turn fin area is OK and has not cracked so far.

egneg
02-07-2009, 06:43 PM
I am curious as to the speed with the stock prop as I have never used it. The one that came w/my boat left a lot to be desired.

properchopper
02-07-2009, 07:19 PM
The specs state that the SC thermals at 230 deg F. Pretty hot; also the LVC kicks in at 11.6 V. Doubtful that with your big packs the LVC kicked in, and 230 deg is hotter than I've ever experienced. I'd suggest checking the solder joints on the motor/SC junction.
My UL-1 powered LSO mono would stop & start; it had de-soldered one connector under the shrink and became intermittant. I redid both the UL-1 & mono with 5.5's I need to run the mono for 4 minute LSO heats so I put in an Etti cap board to keep things stabilized & will test tomorrow.
Frankly, at this point I'm questioning the accuracy of that 11.6 LVC. I hope I'm wrong !

detox
02-07-2009, 07:30 PM
I checked voltage of the large packs and they were OK...15 volts total. I am sure the extra weight and large prop caused this thermal overload. Or maybe it was a failed soldered joint. THANKS

I remember I did have to resolder my SV27 ESC/MOTOR connectors. I now use Castle bullets without a problem.

rightturnonly
02-07-2009, 07:54 PM
I ran my UL-1 with the stock prop today. Ran her right out of the box....GPS'd at 39.2 MPH...

detox
02-07-2009, 11:28 PM
I was going to try the CMD Racing 3 Blade CNC Aluminum Prop (45mm diam 69mm pitch), but the drive dog on propeller shaft needed readjusting so that threads would be exposed for prop nut. This prop covered all of threads.

Next I will try the .062 wire drive with Octura m445. Then maybe the CMD aluminum prop?

BTW...I wonder how well thIS big three blade CMD prop will work in the UL-1?

properchopper
02-08-2009, 12:22 AM
I immediately replaced the stock shaft with an Octura .150; less windup & I gave myself more shaft length behind the drive dog. I've watched Jan lose lots of props with wire drive so I'm a little shy of them myself.
I tried a m445 & it was a wild ride !! Way fast ! Once I get the trim dialed I'll try it again. For now I'm using the Grimracer 40X57X3. I have the CMDI 45X69X3 & may try it, 'tho I bet It'll cavitate like hell before it bites. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get some smooth water to see how the G 10 ride pads [DJ's idea] do.
If the sponson wiggle persists, I have what may be the "final"solution in mind, although it involves some scary surgery :spy: !

detox
02-08-2009, 01:05 AM
I noticed that my sponsons would wiggle at top speed "only" in slightly choppy water (2" chop). I will try more forward COG to see if that helps.

I tried Raptor347's 65 mph prop (he used a modified Octura 2047) in my SV27 powered Rigger Insanity and man is this prop fast. I can see why he ran 65mph using this big prop in the UL-1. Octura makes smaller versions of this 20series prop that I think would work great in this UL-1 boat...although OSE does not stock them.

Capt. Crash
02-08-2009, 09:13 AM
That balance thing is what I've been saying about my boat...ran it again yesterday and tried moving the batteries back a little...nope..."hospital hop" have to have all the weight forward . 10 laps may be pushing it for an aggressive prop...depending on what a lap is.

I was curious about those MaxAmp 8000s but I see they are only rated at 20C. That's why I went with the 5250s....30C.

Here is pic from yesterday....RightTurnOnly and me duking it out.....more to come.

Edited to add...I see they have a new 6500 2s 30c pack now....rats!

detox
02-08-2009, 02:09 PM
Capt. Crash,
I think you made a verygood battery choice (Maxamps 5200 30c)...you can always add more weight if needed. The new Flightpower 28 and 30 are verygood batteries , but their larger size will barely fit in the UL-1 hull.

I was looking at all the Grimracer lifter style props. I am betting some of these would be worth investing in. They take a little more time to sharpen and balance because they are so beefy.

Cool picture BTW!



.................

detox
02-11-2009, 09:53 PM
I am thinking the sponson hopping or chime walk (loose) at higher speeds is caused by the steep AOA built into sponsons. I will try to cure this hopping by setting strut deeper, using a higher lift prop, and/or more upward angle on propeller strut. This extra lift at stern should decrease AOA of sponsons and decrease the chime walk.

I installed home made cooling coil and rerouted my water cooling lines to try and prevent thermalling using the larger props...(I think it was thermal shutdown?).

Capt. Crash
02-12-2009, 07:51 AM
I think you may be right about the chine walk...I have mine set up the way your describing and have eliminated it as long as I keep the battery weight forward too.

Looking at your can cooler I have to wonder if that isn't your heat problem. I use that coil system in a brushed Crackerbox boat and found that it takes a combo of the coils flattened , taped down and thermal pasted against the can, extra tab cooling and a electric end bell fan to keep my motor cool enough to run for a few minutes...and this is with a NiMh 6 pack. Here is a pic of that mess. Maybe you need to go back to a water jacket?

Darin Jordan
02-12-2009, 10:16 AM
Maybe you need to go back to a water jacket?

I'd say that's incredibly good advice... Jay turner did an article in RCBM some time ago talking about this... The coils are minimally effective. One of the beauties of running BL motors is that you can put the water in direct contact with the can. INFINATELY better cooling performance...

detox
02-12-2009, 11:13 AM
Guys, The boat thermalled using the Aquacraft water jacket, I have not ran the boat since I installed the home made cooling coil. I know the water jacket sounds like a more logical choice, but now I am having second thoughts. I will take temp readings at shaft/bearing area to see which is best...coil vs. water jacket. I do know the coil will allow more water flow...which I think is good for cooling the ESC.

Isn't the ESC usually the first to burn up?

BTW Captain Crash, After I formed the cooling coils on smaller diameter socket. I then wrapping 300grit sand paper around socket then sanded the inner part of coils flat...so simple yet so effective.:smile:


..................................

detox
02-12-2009, 11:52 AM
I'd say that's incredibly good advice... Jay turner did an article in RCBM some time ago talking about this... The coils are minimally effective. One of the beauties of running BL motors is that you can put the water in direct contact with the can. INFINATELY better cooling performance...

INFINATELY better only if you can controll the flow aroung motor...much like a silicone jacket does. Water can act as an insulator if it is not replaced correctly with cool water.

Capt. Crash
02-12-2009, 12:17 PM
I'm not having any issues with cooling at all....in fact everything is staying around 100 degrees or less and this is after a 1 1/2 mile run with the upgraded Grimracer 40X57X3 prop. Are you running it full tilt boogie? I run all out... all the time except when I have to let off for short moments for corners or chine walk or whatever. Did it heat up with the stock prop too?

Doby
02-12-2009, 12:18 PM
Replaced correctly:confused1::confused1:

There is so minimal contact with a coil,,,even if you are able to wrap it snugly so that all the coils make contact with the motor can.

A jacket provides 100% contact with the water to the motor can over the length of the jacket.

Not aout the logic you are using,,,but good luck,,,looking froward to seeing the results:thumbup1:

detox
02-12-2009, 12:43 PM
My boat quit on the water and it took me roughly 10 minutes to retreave it so there were no temp readings. All I know is the boat shut down. I am sure it was caused by too much on and off throttle (esc shutdown) because of the fast loose condition (no control using bigger detunged 645 prop).

The coil will cool motor good enough for me and is lots cheaper... plus I "know" it flows more water which should be better for cooling ESC. Cooling the ESC is far more important I think...Just My Opinion.

properchopper
02-12-2009, 12:59 PM
[QUOTE=detox;73657]My boat quit on the water and it took me roughly 10 minutes to retreave it so there were no temp readings. All I know is the boat shut down.

I've been holding back reporting this 'cause I don't want to start another slam session, BUT the SC on the UL-1 went fully defectoid. With fresh batt's, she'd go about 3 seconds & quit. Wait about 1 min. & then maybe 10 sec. runtime, then nothing for @ 1 min., then repeat. Soldered on fresh 5.5's on the SC/motor wires. No diff. Popped in the UL-1 SC from my LSO boat & ran fine. Sent in for warrantee replacement last Monday & will wait & see what response I get. BTW, SC temps never appeared anything near "too hot":confused2:

Capt. Crash
02-12-2009, 01:19 PM
That doesn't sound like the same problem as in the first post to me. :popcorn2:

One thing does bother me though...I've yet to get to the LVC or stutter bump and the batteries were @ 11 percent capacity according to the meter after the last run....I didn't think to record voltage though.

detox
02-12-2009, 01:25 PM
I've been holding back reporting this 'cause I don't want to start another slam session, BUT the SC on the UL-1 went fully defectoid. :confused2:

What prop were you using when this happened?

properchopper
02-12-2009, 01:57 PM
What prop were you using when this happened?

40X57/3 S&B. I know it couldn't be due to the thermal protection circuit because it happened cold. Batt's were freshly charged so the LVC was not the likely cause. I simply put in another UL-1 SC & all was good. The replacement SC had the Etti Cap board on it, BTW. I'll do the same to the next one when it arrives.

Just so you know, the SC with the Etti cap board was out of my LSO 29" mono, which needs to run 4 minute races, so I want to keep the voltage stabilized & avoid any LVC interference, theoretically, I might add.

Rumdog
03-23-2009, 09:19 PM
Had the same issue. After owning this boat for about a month now, i'm Really starting to dislike it!! Don't get me wrong, The spped is great, handles great, but I cannot believe the number of B.S. issues that a "RTR" boat is giving me. At first it wasn't so bad mainly because I enjoy modding and customizing. But, i've had MAJOR structural issues! Here's my list so far.

-plastic headers both cracked and fell off as did one mirror
- rear of starboard sponson near turn fin, cracked all the way through. first run.
-water cooling jacket........ we all know of these two.
-Cracked hull behind both sponsons. no impact damage. thoght the were just gelcoat till water seeped through.
-esc malfunction. not sure why. running octura 440/3 sharpened/balanced professionally. runs for about 30 seconds and shuts down. re-arm it and it shuts down again as soon as i go more than half throttle. running 2x2s 4000mah 25c packs.

These issues have been more than enough to get me quit agitated. I wish I would have just went with the Delta Force Vortex build I was going to do. I'm gonna have to try to get ahold of Aquacraft on this one. I wish I could just get my money back on this one!!

detox
03-24-2009, 09:43 AM
You may have a swollen capacitor. Have you ran a prop larger than 440/3?
Read here:
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=6750

Rumdog
03-24-2009, 01:34 PM
That was the first thing that I checked. There appears to be no physical damage to the esc. The only props I have ran are the stock plastic prop and the 440/3. On one run the motor coupler began to fray the coating on one of the battery leads and the tiniest bit of wiring. I melted some solder to the wiring to compensate for any loss of wiring and taped it up. My esc problems were occuring before this happened though. I'm confused!?

Rumdog
03-24-2009, 01:39 PM
I was on and off throttle quite a bit. I can see how this would heat things up a bit. BUT, should this really occur to the point where the esc thermals? Seriously?! If the esc cannot handle the amp load of the motor then the boat should have a much better esc. my old SV27 never ever thermaled. God knows that I abused the hell outta that boat too!

Rumdog
03-24-2009, 07:49 PM
Thanks detox, i'll give that a whirl tomorrow. Hope i'm as lucky as you! By the way William Murderface has gotta be your fav, no?

alvinsmith75
03-24-2009, 09:35 PM
You may have a swollen capacitor. Have you ran a prop larger than 440/3?
Read here:
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=6750

Ya know the funny thing is when I contacted Hobby Services about my issue they told me that "We have not had any problem at all with our esc's".:ThumbsDown01:

detox
03-24-2009, 10:52 PM
Thanks detox, i'll give that a whirl tomorrow. Hope i'm as lucky as you! By the way William Murderface has gotta be your fav, no?

Yes...he's my favorite.

William Murderface (voiced by Tommy Blacha) is Dethklok's bassist. He plays a Gibson Thunderbird Studio 5-string. He has brown hair, lime green eyes, a heavy lateral lisp and a diastema. Murderface's father killed his wife with a chainsaw before turning it upon himself in front of Murderface in a grisly murder-suicide. Murderface is "a self-hating bass player who's always trying to act like he's more important than he is," in part because his bass playing is usually mixed out completely.

Brendon Small describes Murderface as "thin-skinned and incredibly sensitive and just wants to be accepted constantly but can’t get that because he’s such a dick and pushes people away". Murderface's voice was originally achieved by Tommy Blacha putting paper towels inside his mouth when voicing the character, but he has since refined his technique to avoid the paper towels.