New Pro Boat Impulse 32" Brushless Deep-V RTR

[MADRCER]

Here's the fiberglass boat some have been asking for. Videos coming soon...
https://m.youtube.com/user/MrMad2424/featured


https://youtu.be/ZJ3UITllapY

[skeeler]

I'm surprised no one else has comment on this new boat.

[jhurlbert]

I should be getting mine in a week. Looks like it should be a nice boat.

[skeeler]

Let us know what you think once you get it.

[alvinm]

Waiting for the local shop to get some in. Hopefully not as finicky as the BJ 42.

[Peter A]

Any clues as to motor esc etc in this new offering? Will it be a new p-td rtr option?

[skeeler]

Any clues as to motor esc etc in this new offering? Will it be a new p-td rtr option?

Some details are here:
https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/impulse-32-brushless-deep-v-rtr-with-smart/PRB08037.html

[jhurlbert]

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[MADRCER]

Great looking boat. Running videos with a few speed test coming soon.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUpkK3PmEeI

[alvinm]

I've had this boat for about a week now and in both passes I've made, the hull gets flooded with water. Has anyone had this issue? I'm guessing it's not sealed correctly around the copper tube that comes through the hull for the water pickup. All the cooling hoses are connected and no water comes in when the boat is stationary on the water. I added silicone around the tube to see if that eliminates the flooding.

[sciesielka]

I've had this boat for about a week now and in both passes I've made, the hull gets flooded with water. Has anyone had this issue? I'm guessing it's not sealed correctly around the copper tube that comes through the hull for the water pickup. All the cooling hoses are connected and no water comes in when the boat is stationary on the water. I added silicone around the tube to see if that eliminates the flooding.

I saw a video from "Mild to Wild RC" who must have been one of the early reviewers. He had a leak on his Impulse 32 as well. I didn't pay close attention since I don't have the boat, but I'm pretty sure he said it appeared to come at the corner between the hull bottom and the transom. Something about the plastic plate they put in to mount all the hardware must have a leak. Check it out. Just search Mild to wild rc "Proboat impulse 32 water leak issue fix"

[jhurlbert]

Some water in mine after one run but not flooded. I wasn’t to worried but maybe i should inspect it for leaks

[alvinm]

After less than a minute it'll have water sloshing inside. It's weird because if it had a leak somewhere in the transom, you'd think it would fill the boat up even if it's stationary?

[alvinm]

I'll look for that video.. thanks.

[jhurlbert]

So i just did a water test and i had water entering into at least 3 bolts in the back. One strut bolt one trim tab bolts on both sides

[jhurlbert]

Anyone notice this boat has the same prop as the blackjack 42 but the finish on the one it comes with sucks. The one on my bj 42 has a polished finish and the replacements are polished too
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[jhurlbert]

Some toyota form in place gasket behind the nuts on the spots that were leaking water and shes all water tight now. Unlike epoxy i can take it apart easily if need be.

[alvinm]

How did you guys do the water test? I placed the entire boat in the water and then pushed down until the water level was almost to the hatch. Should I just stick the back end into the water? Also, did the water gush in because, the amount of water I'm getting after just a couple of passes to me seams too excessive to be a minor leak through some bolts.

[jhurlbert]

I did the same as you, in my pool. I had water after about 10 sec

[alvinm]

I did notice they looked very similar but assumed they were different because of differences in power.

[alvinm]

Okay, so I'm about to send this boat back, but I have only one thing left to check. I noticed some bubbles coming through the motor water jacket when I blew through the hose. I'm gonna take it off, maybe it's missing o-rings or something.

[alvinm]

Success!!!!! I immediately noticed the rather thin o ring didn't have a great seal on the motor. I applied a thin bead of silicone around the edge of the water jacket and clamped down hard on the plastic mount that goes across the top. Now it's bone dry! What a relief.

[jhurlbert]

My cooling jacket is leaking too.

This boat so far is a hand-full. All i have done so far is a slight strut down adjustment. I have run both 2 3s 4500mah batteries and 2 6000mah batteries. Likes to bounce. Seems more so with the 6000mah batteries. I think this boat has more than enough power. Next is to make a bigger strut dow adjustment and see how she rides

[alvinm]

I wanna say my strut came from factory all the way down. I may be wrong but it's currently at the least position. I also lowered the trim tabs down about an 1/8th. I'm not getting much bouncing. I haven't had a chance with the wind and chop to get nice long passes but I still got it to 52.

[alvinm]

The batteries are all the way forward touching the cross brace.

[jhurlbert]

About 5 runs i i noticed this
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[alvinm]

What's the issue?

[jhurlbert]

The big crack up by the drive dog. I dont know if it came that way or just happened

[jhurlbert]

I have contacted horizon about the leaking cooling jacket and cracked prop. We will see what they say

[alvinm]

Yeah I wouldn't run it until it's replaced. I think the BJ 42 has the same or similar prop, in case you have a local hobby shop that has those in stock.

[Yomiel]

I just took mine for its first run, and I think I may be having similar leaking issues.

I'm also wondering if any other owners could comment on these imperfections I noticed in the rear of the hull. There's some very slight bulging in the fiberglass along the back corner. I haven't owned many fiberglass models, so I'm not sure if this is par for the course or the sort of defect I should be complaining to Horizon about (it certainly doesn't seem like a functional problem). Here are a couple pictures:
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[alvinm]

It's hard to tell whether it will get worse or not, but it definitely shouldn't be there. Send Horizon those pics to see what they say. Maybe they'll send you a whole new boat.

[Yomiel]

It's hard to tell whether it will get worse or not, but it definitely shouldn't be there. Send Horizon those pics to see what they say. Maybe they'll send you a whole new boat.

Thanks for the advice. I shot them a support request.

[Yomiel]

In case anyone's curious, Horizon ordered me a replacement hull after I sent them pictures of the defect.

Also, I was able to fix my leaking by tightening a few of the transom bolts and supplementing some of the sealant along the back panel with super glue.

The boat's a ton of fun once it's working, but it seems like these guys do not have their manufacturing process figured out...

[alvinm]

So did you send your boat back with electronics or do you have to gut your boat and reinstall it in the new hull?

[Yomiel]

So did you send your boat back with electronics or do you have to gut your boat and reinstall it in the new hull?

The latter. They offered to take the boat back and "maybe" replace it as an alternative, but I really didn't want to lose the two or so weeks (Horizon is warning of covid-related service delays at the moment).

[alvinm]

Yeah, I know it was probably a little bit of a pain getting stuff in and out of this hull, but I would have done the same.

[jhurlbert]

So after weeks of waiting to hear from horizon about my leaking water jacket they are going to send me a new motor with jacket (all I asked them for was some new o rings but they probably cant get just them). Im going to see if i can pull the jacket off of the leaking one and maybe put some silicone grease on the o rings to get it to seal. I really dont want to have to solder on a new motor, the factory solder and shrink wrap looks really nice

[alvinm]

In the meantime, just put a bead of silicone along the edge of the jacket. It was amazing how much water used to seep through the jacket before I sealed it. So far so good.

[jhurlbert]

So i received my new motor with jacket from horizon. I then pulled my old jacket off my old motor to see if i could fix the leak. The o rings looked good so i removed them from the jacket and coated them in some motocraft silicone brake caliper grease that i had (good stuff). I then re installed and bench tested with a mouth full of water and some spare water line. Not a drop. So i think its fixed with just a little bit of grease on the o rings. Now i have a brand new spare motor with cooling jacket.

I also learned during this that the motor is not soldered to the esc (thats what i thought it looked like) there is actually connectors that plug into the esc. I haven’t seen that before

[alvinm]

Yeah after I epoxied the hell out of the transom, it turns out to be a simple leak from the water jacket. I've spent so much time trying to get my BJ 42 to work that I haven't given this boat enough love, but that's gonna change.

[T.S.Davis]

I like love the lines of the hull.

Some observations....wonder why the stinger is SO for offset. Through hull water pick up? Odd for a production boat.

Someone mentioned our local hobby may have one. I'll have to swing by there.

[alvinm]

My Ms. Geico 36 has two through hull pick-ups. It seems like you get way for more water through the esc and motor jacket compared to the rudder pick-up.

[Panther6834]

I know this is going to sound like a "strange" question to some...but, has anyone run the boat on 4S? Then reason I'm asking is, for the P-Limited & P-open classes, NAMBA limits boats to 4S, which can be two 2S packs in-series, or a single 4S pack, or two 4S packs in-parallel.

Theoretically, this boat *should* be able to compete in NAMBA-sanctioned races, under P-Limited or P-open, depending on the motor...but, I am curious as to whether, or not, this boat could actually BE competitive. I'm guessing that the hull probably weighs too much to make this competitive in the P-Limited class (if the motor already is, or were replaced with, a 3660, or shorter)...but, if a longer 36mm can, or a 40mm can, were used, could it actually be a competitive P-open mono?

Speaking of the motor, can anyone who already has the Impulse 32 confirm what the motor's actual specs are (diameter, length, and kv), as there is no consistency in the info on the Horizon Hobby website & the manual. Some sections state 3682, while others mention 3680. As for what the kv is, both 1900kv & 2000kv are mentioned.

[jhurlbert]

So i had perfect conditions today and the boat was running really well. Was making full throttle 6s passes but i think I ended up hitting thermal protection. The boat cut back on the power and then i let it sit for 30 seconds in the water without shutting it off and then i had full power again.

Also after fixing my leaking water jacket the boat was bone dry after the run

[alvinm]

I'm surprised it shut down, unless you had it pegged the whole time and doing donuts or something. I have a pair of 60c batteries that for some reason can't handle the juice and causes the boat to go into thermal. Have you tried with other batteries?

[jhurlbert]

I am running zeee 4500mah 3s 50c batteries. I havent had Any problems with these zeee batteries i probably own at least 20 of them but with this new proboat 160a esc maybe its too much for them. I have the same esc in my blackjack 42 8s but i am running zeee 4s 9000mah 100c. All i have is some turigy 60-120c batteries but it will probably be a long time before I get to run them.

[Brushless1]

I am working on one of these and noticed the stinger does not go through the center of the transom. Its off set to starboard. It appears they did this to allow the ESC/receiver rack to have room. To fit that in, the Motor rack appears to have to be offest to starboard. Its a Normal rotation motor/prop so does this offest some kind of torque steer? or is it just a cheap hobby grade overlook by Proboat? I havent run the boat yet so I dont know if there is any kind of an issue due this offest.

[jhurlbert]

I have run the boat few times and have not noticed any problems due to the offset

[fweasel]

I am working on one of these and noticed the stinger does not go through the center of the transom. Its off set to starboard. It appears they did this to allow the ESC/receiver rack to have room. To fit that in, the Motor rack appears to have to be offest to starboard. Its a Normal rotation motor/prop so does this offest some kind of torque steer? or is it just a cheap hobby grade overlook by Proboat? I havent run the boat yet so I dont know if there is any kind of an issue due this offest.

Offsetting the stuffing tube to the right is not an uncommon practice with a CCW spinning prop on a V-bottom. It can help alleviate torque roll

[Jesse J]

I know this is going to sound like a "strange" question to some...but, has anyone run the boat on 4S? Then reason I'm asking is, for the P-Limited & P-open classes, NAMBA limits boats to 4S, which can be two 2S packs in-series, or a single 4S pack, or two 4S packs in-parallel.

Theoretically, this boat *should* be able to compete in NAMBA-sanctioned races, under P-Limited or P-open, depending on the motor...but, I am curious as to whether, or not, this boat could actually BE competitive. I'm guessing that the hull probably weighs too much to make this competitive in the P-Limited class (if the motor already is, or were replaced with, a 3660, or shorter)...but, if a longer 36mm can, or a 40mm can, were used, could it actually be a competitive P-open mono?

Speaking of the motor, can anyone who already has the Impulse 32 confirm what the motor's actual specs are (diameter, length, and kv), as there is no consistency in the info on the Horizon Hobby website & the manual. Some sections state 3682, while others mention 3680. As for what the kv is, both 1900kv & 2000kv are mentioned.
I had same question. So I picked one up yesterday and swapped out motor and esc with proboat 3660 2000 kv and castle X8s (for data logging, then a suitable esc for the amp draw I settle on).

The stock motor is a 2000kv 3682 (measured with calipers).

I’ll be testing it tomorrow as a plim option. If that doesn?t work, i’ll drop in a suitable p open motor.

I do suspect I will be blueprinting the bottom - all those trays and mounts have distorted the flatness.
I also raised the trim tabs to the highest they go to avoid unwanted drag.
I will be adding a dual intake rudder and capping off the through hull intake.
And using a suitable 4s prop.
I can summarize race prep procedure if there is interest.
J

[Brushless1]

I can summarize race prep procedure if there is interest.
J

Yes, I am interested in metrics. Have a few of these I work on so having others identify issues/fixes will be beneficial. Plus, Not sure what a 4s prop is.

[Jesse J]

Yes, I am interested in metrics. Have a few of these I work on so having others identify issues/fixes will be beneficial. Plus, Not sure what a 4s prop is.

Will do.
I too am unsure what prop this guy will like on 4s.
Testing today, will report back.

[Jesse J]

I don’t know what is the deal yet, but this thing will do nothing but hop and bounce like a jack rabbit on a bed of coals!
I tried moving batteries as far forward as possible(pair of 4s in series), and bending strut all the way down..

so the issue is either strut is too low, cog still too far back, bulge at the back of the bottom or a combination of all three.
I’ll keep trouble shooting, but quite discouraging that an “RTR” needs so much work..

oh and this one fills up with water like others reported, will be getting that stock motor cooler as far from this boat as possible!

[mappo]

I have contacted horizon about the leaking cooling jacket and cracked prop. We will see what they say
Hey try backing off the screws on the bracket that holds the jacket, I think the pressure and the vibration pinches the rubber seals. Some owners used some grease to stop the leak.

[mappo]

I have contacted horizon about the leaking cooling jacket and cracked prop. We will see what they say
Hey try backing off the screws on the bracket that holds the jacket, I think the pressure and the vibration pinches the rubber seals. Some owners used some grease to stop the leak.i did the same with my impulse

[sciesielka]

Anyone with the Pro Boat Impulse 32 run on 4s either in stock configuration or otherwise? I just picked up the Impulse 32 from OSE as the hull and hardware only so I'm trying to decide what motor. I can get the stock 3682 2000KV or the same size from SSS in different KV ratings. 2000KV on 6s seems crazy high RPMs to me for a sport/fun boat. My 37" fiberglass Razor with a 4082 1250KV motor does 50 to 55mph on 6s and uses up practically the entire lake! The Impulse is only slightly smaller and about the same weight so if I run 6s, to me, it's way to much. Maybe on 4s a 2000KV motor in this boat would be fine.
I'm thinking if I stick with the 36mm dia. motor, a 3682 or 3660 in the 1200 to 1600KV range would be better for running 6s. Any thoughts?
I would use the OSE 150A ESC. I'm not sure I'd stick with the stock prop (41mm x 1.7 pitch ratio I think), maybe go to an Octura x442 to get better low end "grip"

[koen]

hi siesielka you can use a sss 3682 v2 1650kv should be the perfect choice ,this motor pack a serous punch (2000w continuous )so the flex shaft must be a HD type ,with good setup the boat fly's you need maybe some different props abc works very good

[sciesielka]

you can use a sss 3682 v2 1650kv should be the perfect choice

A buddy of mine got the same hull and hardware deal from OSE and asked Steven V. at OSE what motor would be a good option for his Impulse 32. He recommended the exact same motor! So far, it's sounding like the easiest/best option is to just go with the 3682 since it's the same size as stock. And the 1650kv provides a much more realistic RPM, especially for the lake I'll be running on.

[T.S.Davis]

We ran one of these Saturday. Has potential but at the end of the straight gets weird. We put a straight edge on the bottom. Ours was a disaster. Fixable but yikes. That's where the bobble was coming from on the one we saw. It appears that when the glued in the rails they created a nasty hook. At least on this one. Again, fixable.

[sciesielka]

I don’t know what is the deal yet, but this thing will do nothing but hop and bounce like a jack rabbit on a bed of coals!


I got my Impulse 32 together and was starting to test props. Because I bought this with all the hardware and no electronics, I opted for the Leopard 4082 1600KV X2 and the OSE 150A ESC. I had to cut out some of the stock motor mount to make room for the larger diameter motor and a rear motor support.
I started with the trim tabs parallel to the bottom of the hull and raised 2 to 2.5mm instead of flush to the bottom of the hull as it came stock. I also started with the strut parallel (0 degree angle) and the stock prop. Batteries are 3s SMC DV Extreme 6900mAh "135C" to make 6s. As Jesse J said, it was hopping all over the place. I added 2 degrees negative angle to the inside trim tabs and about 1 degree negative angle on the strut. It's slightly better but not by much.

Anyone have a working setup on their Impulse? Do I go wrong moving the trim tabs up? Should I put them even with the bottom of the hull again and start trimming from there? I admit that I have not had much time to do much testing and, as it is now Nov. I'm rapidly running out of time before the lakes freeze over. So any help would be appreciated!175954175955

[Peter A]

Have you tried moving the CG forwards?

[mappo]

I got my Impulse 32 together and was starting to test props. Because I bought this with all the hardware and no electronics, I opted for the Leopard 4082 1600KV X2 and the OSE 150A ESC. I had to cut out some of the stock motor mount to make room for the larger diameter motor and a rear motor support.
I started with the trim tabs parallel to the bottom of the hull and raised 2 to 2.5mm instead of flush to the bottom of the hull as it came stock. I also started with the strut parallel (0 degree angle) and the stock prop. Batteries are 3s SMC DV Extreme 6900mAh "135C" to make 6s. As Jesse J said, it was hopping all over the place. I added 2 degrees negative angle to the inside trim tabs and about 1 degree negative angle on the strut. It's slightly better but not by much.

Anyone have a working setup on their Impulse? Do I go wrong moving the trim tabs up? Should I put them even with the bottom of the hull again and start trimming from there? I admit that I have not had much time to do much testing and, as it is now Nov. I'm rapidly running out of time before the lakes freeze over. So any help would be appreciated!175954175955

I think that Rcboatbitz figured out the issue with this hull and they produced a different trim tab, seems to do the trick. Rcboatbitz has a video on it before and after new trim tab.

[CJPB32]

I think that Rcboatbitz figured out the issue with this hull and they produced a different trim tab, seems to do the trick. Rcboatbitz has a video on it before and after new trim tab.

The problem now is these RC BBZ tabs are blue! I bought these instead- https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-83023

I'll see how she runs with these this spring.

[mappo]

The problem now is these RC BBZ tabs are blue! I bought these instead- https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-83023

I'll see how she runs with these this spring.

I think that Rcboatbitz has 2 different trim tabs for the impulse 32, one is blue and the other is black from what I’ve seen.

[sciesielka]

After struggling to get my Impulse 32 to run well at the end of 2022, I finally got it out in summer 2023 after making some trim adjustments. In all of the runs I did and am still doing, I have the batteries as far forward as possible (2x 3s SMC DV Extreme 6900mah). That, in itself is quite a task as the deck comes over most of the battery tray so getting to the straps closer to the bow is a real pain! I am also running all stock hardware and plumbing, including, so far, the stock prop.
The setup I am running now gets me to 50mph. The stock strut is at a positive 1 to 1.5 degrees; both inner trim tabs are negative 4 degrees and both outer trim tabs are negative 2 degrees. I also have the trim tabs 1mm above the bottom surface of the hull. With this setup, the boat runs well, maybe a little wet, but battery placement fixes that and after 5+ minutes running "for fun," the batteries, ESC and motor are under 120F in 90F weather and about 80F water!
The rest of this boating season (2023) I'll be testing props and data logging everything with the Hyperion Emeter v2 so I can monitor AMP draw, Watts, RPM, Voltage drop and temps. I'll match that to my GPS to see what the best prop and setup is for my Impulse 32.

[paulejr]

Update, I got my Impulse 32 April this year, so good to read back the concerns you all had up to this point. Mine ran 48.2 mph right out of the box stock. Added a 6s series, with octura prop x440 58.2, then Dasboata prop ( 59.1mph and only slight increase of speed for the 1516. I got the upgrade kit from RCboatbiz but did not like the prop. The hull sits low on the portside so i added what I thought was the same amount of wheel weight to the stbd side to get it to sit level side to side.
What a difference it makes in choppy water. Flat, half wet and straight as an arrow. ( plus I added a second rudder to get squirely with, works great!) Supposedly this and the UL-19 use the same prop but pretty doggy at best. I have a ABC 1716 coming from downunder and expect the hull to do 65 or so+ , as some have reported 70+ with same prop -stock . we shall see eh? The hull tested flat, no warps or bulges and I use the underside pick up as well to keep all the joy under 130 degrees. Next change is 4092 motor, ZTW 200 esc, Admiral 5500 mah 100c 22.4 v in series...lets see if I can hit 80 mph or smoke it....

[sciesielka]

The hull tested flat, no warps or bulges and I use the underside pick up as well to keep all the joy under 130 degrees. Next change is 4092 motor, ZTW 200 esc, Admiral 5500 mah 100c 22.4 v in series...lets see if I can hit 80 mph or smoke it....

One side of the bottom of my hull has a concave section. I looked at it over the winter but didn't do anything to fix it yet. Maybe this winter I'll fill it in and get the bottom flat. Maybe then it will run even better! For now, since I finally have it running well, I plan to get the data logger hooked up soon so I can start testing props. Since I only have access to the lake on the weekends, it might be a few weeks before I get all the results. Once I do, I'll post them here.

I also use the thru-hull pickup and the rudder pickup for the water cooling. Since that stock setup seems to work fine, I didn't change anything.

If you're interested, here's the info on my website about my build: https://myplace.frontier.com/~sv_design/impulse.html

[CJPB32]

You guys should reroute the stock water lines to the motor. Maybe not much difference in cooling (IDK) but wrong is wrong....
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?65236-another-Impulse-32-Spektrum-motor-question-cooling&highlight=

Also, check your water jacket for water leaks. If the motor top clamp is too tight, it pushes the water jacket off center of the motor and it will leak.