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Punisher 67
01-19-2009, 04:31 PM
Brand new never even been out of package , Himodel 200amp 2-7cell esc ( lipo )

$50.00 + $7.00 for shipping

Ub Hauled
01-19-2009, 05:59 PM
why are you selling Peter?

Eyekandyboats
01-19-2009, 06:19 PM
i will take it
57 CND?

Punisher 67
01-20-2009, 01:27 AM
why are you selling Peter?

Jan

I am selling it for a friend , he already has 6 other Esc's and only 2 boats on the fly at the present so he asked if I could sell it for him , I have one like it and don't need a second

If it was mine Taylor I would give you that deal but its sort of out of my hands price wise , sorry my friend

Eyekandyboats
01-20-2009, 07:37 AM
so 57 US.?
send me your paypal addy.
i just really wanted to try one of these out!

Punisher 67
01-20-2009, 11:34 AM
It is yours Taylor if you still want it.........:sold: , the first guy bought dirrectly from Himodel when I sent him the link

Eyekandyboats
01-20-2009, 05:43 PM
i sent you some pesos

Punisher 67
01-21-2009, 01:20 AM
Thanks Taylor I will mail it out in the morning.....:tiphat:

Jeff Wohlt
01-21-2009, 10:14 AM
Are people happy with this ESC? Does it hold up and I hear it works with pistol?

Guess it is good for a 125 amps or so...or have some tracked and pushed it up to closer to 200 amps?

mechengineer03
01-21-2009, 11:31 AM
Do these ESC's work with Pistal radio's or do you have to have a PiStix for it to work with a pistal radio?

Thanks for anyone that can answer this for me as I would like to try one if they work with pistal radio's.

THANKS

DISAR
01-21-2009, 12:50 PM
They work with pistol radio. No need pistix. However I have one cheap AM radio that it does not work at all but with all the rest is fine.

Eyekandyboats
01-21-2009, 06:04 PM
we have a guy in our club who has 4 of these and he runs this in his P mono on 4s2p with a NEY 1521 motor. and the esc comes back warm. and he is pushing a DF 33 on 10000 Mah

Are people happy with this ESC? Does it hold up and I hear it works with pistol?

Guess it is good for a 125 amps or so...or have some tracked and pushed it up to closer to 200 amps?

Flying Scotsman
01-21-2009, 06:16 PM
Peter, what is your take on this ESC. As I truly respect your oppinion.
Taylor what is warm?

Douggie

Eyekandyboats
01-21-2009, 10:52 PM
Peter, what is your take on this ESC. As I truly respect your oppinion.
Taylor what is warm?

Douggie

(adj) warm
having or producing a comfortable and agreeable degree of heat or imparting or maintaining heat

Jeff Wohlt
01-21-2009, 11:37 PM
Thanks for the info. I had heard good and bad so was just wanting more opinions.

I thought several on this board had them.

Punisher 67
01-22-2009, 01:35 AM
Douggie I havent really pushed one to hard yet but when I get caught up I want to push one to the brink on a bench test and will certainly post results probably with a youtube video

I really like it so far especialy not needing a pistix

Jesse J
01-22-2009, 10:13 AM
I posted my set up when I blew mine, but might as well again here for the record.

I was running my Titan 29, 10XL, HM 200 (added water cooling to the fins on top), wire drive, Grimracer 4466 prop on 6S (5000mah). Time to meltdown was under 2 min. Top speed was 41 mph. I think Reddywatts said (according to FE Calc) I was pulling 167amps, probably more since I was tooling around instead of doing religious laps. Jeff I am sure you have read through this thread:
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=5924&highlight=titan&page=2

I am investing in an Eagle Tree to be able to quantify actual data.

Viking
01-22-2009, 06:39 PM
Jesse;
I see your mistake and you know what it is or you wouldn't have mentioned it.
The water cooling needs to be right on the mosfets. You need to remove the shrink wrap and the finned heatsink and put your water cooling right where the finned heat sink was.
Don't forget that heat rises, mount the ESC so the water cooling is on top. The heat rises into the water cooling plate and is drawn away by the water. There was a photo on here or RR of a boat with a burnt ESC the guy had mounted the ESC so the water cooling plate was on the bottom. I think that was the only reason he cooked it.
Viking

Viking
01-22-2009, 06:47 PM
I have been running the HiModel/Mystery 200Amp ESC all Season with no problem.
My boat is pulling 150Amps according to my EagleTree logger. The ESC only gets comfortably warm, BUT I don't try to empty the batteries in one run, without checking how things are. Occasionally I have found my 4800mAh 3s lipos hotter than the ESC or the motor, running 6s on the boat.
Maybe I should water cool the batteries too:biggrin:
Viking

planezero
01-22-2009, 07:29 PM
Jesse;
The water cooling needs to be right on the mosfets. You need to remove the shrink wrap and the finned heatsink and put your water cooling right where the finned heat sink was.

So you left the soft (heat conducting) material between the FETs and the cooling plate ?
I'm pondering to put the plates right on the FETs or leave the material there...

ReddyWatts
01-22-2009, 07:55 PM
I am trying to air cool the inner Fets.

Jesse J
01-22-2009, 09:11 PM
I put water cooling on the outside of the fins. I didn't even take off the shrink wrap. Since, I have removed it and the cooling plate and have a plan.

Viking
01-22-2009, 09:48 PM
I removed the white stuff.
If you find the MosFets are not exactly flat and making perfect contact with the water cooling plate, you can even their contact surface by lapping them with emery cloth and a perfectly flat surface. Like a piece of heavy plate glass, or a machined tool table. Then use a little silicone heat transfer compound (the same stuff computer guys use when putting the heatsink on a CPU heatsink) on the MosFets before installing the cooling plate. I re wrapped the ESC and cooling with a piece of shrink wrap I got from Steven.
However I didn't use a simple cooling plate I used some brass sheeting and brass c channel to solder up a water tank 3/16" thick, just the correct size for the ESC. Drill a couple of holes in the end and solder in brass tubing for inlet and exhaust water connections.
I also used DP Epoxy to waterproof both of the printed circuit baords. The DP Epoxy is non conductive and safe for electronics, it is available from Steven.
Good Luck;
Viking

Spot Me 2
01-24-2009, 01:20 PM
PM sent.

Jesse J
01-24-2009, 06:40 PM
Viking, I like that idea. I have made a little "box" out of brass sheeting for my Turnigy 100A and it has worked great. I like the idea of water rushing over the hot surfaces as opposed to just a tube touching a plate. thanks for the explanation! I will try it for sure.

ksm2001
01-24-2009, 08:06 PM
Here is the thread on the HM 200 amp a while back with cooling plates

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=5924

Go to post #5 I added some pics of the HM 200 with cooling plates

crrcboatz
01-24-2009, 08:49 PM
Here is the thread on the HM 200 amp a while back with cooling plates

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?t=5924

Go to post #5 I added some pics of the HM 200 with cooling plates

the thread does not go that far, #51. It was something like 48 or so.

ksm2001
01-24-2009, 10:04 PM
post #5

Eyekandyboats
01-27-2009, 05:43 PM
got it today Peter, thanks man, I love ya!!

Punisher 67
01-28-2009, 02:06 AM
Glad to see that it arrived safe Taylor , give me a dingle on how it works for you

Eyekandyboats
01-28-2009, 07:00 AM
Glad to see that it arrived safe Taylor , give me a dingle on how it works for you
i will be running it on February the 8th.
:)