My Micro Hydro

[JimClark]

Ok I have now received one of Randy's micro dropped sponson hydros. I plan on reinforcing the interior with a combination of wood frames and fiberglass. Never having worked on a vacuum formed hull before I was wondering about what weight of fiberglass to get? Any ides on reinforcing would be appreciated as all I have done is scratch built wood or a carbon hull that was ready for finishing.

http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/1577/img1537ir8.jpg

[JimClark]

Here is my choice
1975 Oberto

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/49713739_DsCup-L.jpg

[Dr. Jet]

Oh Lord, don't let Darin see that! Next thing you know there will be a fleet of Obertos! :laugh:

[RandyatBBY]

Here is my choice
1975 Oberto

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/49713739_DsCup-L.jpg

Thought I would give you a view that is about the same.
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/6582/img1544lc8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[RandyatBBY]

Oh Lord, don't let Darin see that! Next thing you know there will be a fleet of Obertos! :laugh:

He just might want one:thumbup:

[Meniscus]

Nice. Marketing at its best!

[JimClark]

About the onlg thing I plan on changing is to modify the front of the cowl so it is 90 degrees instead of angled. Some of the drop sponson boats cowl were angled like Randy mad eit and a bunch were at 90 degrees like the Oberto is.

I already contacted Darin to see what he has that i might be able to use in the way of templates so i can make the graphic files.
going to use one of Dr Jets 3000kv brushless outrunner motor/esc $25.00 combo, a wire drive and one of Joe's micro rudders and a micro strut I got off of ebay
a 2s lipo MAH to be determined and a X430r prop as I am going to be turning left like the real boats

I also may try one of the little screamer brushless motors that has water cooling built in I have already talked to the designer about getting one
Jim

[JimClark]

another picrure of the real boat

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/49713728_j5hyJ-L.jpg

[Jesse J]

Beautiful! I bet that thing sounds like sweet thunder.

Ok, about that fiberglass, I am curious too - I have the turbine guy, but same question, weight and best resin.

[Sneasle]

Well... that explains it.. I started my own thread about this hull, but everyone is in yours!!

I am going to build this one and one of the MH at the same time with the same hardware/motors/methods in an effort to give Randy a good solid comparison between the two hulls.

That being said, I'd be interested in seeing what you come up with for wood frames. I will use one of the Doc's for the MH, but I test fit them in the Shovel and there is no way they will fit without lots of cutting/sanding/modifying. If your frames work out well, I'd might want to use them here.


On the issue of glass, I have some 3.5-4oz glass I was planning on using, have some 1.5oz glass in the mail (maybe). Doc suggested using two layers of the lighter glasses, I'm not sure if it is actually needed though. The key to these hulls is keeping them light.

My motor choice as of now:
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5222&Product_Name=HXT_2845_(380L)_2700kv_Brushless_Inru nner


Anyone know of any other shovels I could paint mine after? Something unique that looks.. mean.. maybe?

[JimClark]

go to newtonmarine.com and look at page 10 and 11 for the drop sponson hulls

Jim

[Sneasle]

Thanks Jim.

I flipped through, not much jumped out at me.

Let me know how your wood frames progress. I may move my build into your thread at some point if you don't mind.

[JimClark]

The hard part is getting the top of the frames to fit. maybe Dr Jett has a trick up his sleeve on how to do that.
No problem on joining the thread
Jim

[JimClark]

It might take me a little while. I just ordered some wood and fiberglass so I probably wont have anything for a week at least.

Jim

[Sneasle]

no worries, I'm a slow worker as well.

Anyone got any comments on that motor?

[RandyatBBY]

no worries, I'm a slow worker as well.

Anyone got any comments on that motor?

It looks like a good choice with Lipo. I think I want to try one, but I have way too much to do.

[Dr. Jet]

The hard part is getting the top of the frames to fit. maybe Dr Jett has a trick up his sleeve on how to do that.


Jim, et. al.,

Here’s how I made the outline for the MTH framework: Using card stock, I made ½ templates; one for the top and one for the bottom. It was mostly trial-and-error cutting, taping, splicing, and fitting. Once I had the proper outline for the top of the frame and the bottom, I lightly “tack”-taped them to the hull pieces and assembled the top to the bottom. Then, through the hatch opening, I taped the two half-templates together with the hull halves joined. Voilá, you now have a perfect-sized template! Then use this template to cut out your reinforcement pieces. This works for the stringers as well as the bulkheads.

[Sneasle]

@ Jim

Well, Doc did such a good job cutting the lightening hole that we can't really do much modification to those frames. I might just use them as a template to start from, the only problem being I can't get the same type of lite ply used for those frames locally. I'll either have to use a stiffer ply, or go to balsa, so I'm not sure what to do since I want these boats to be as equal as possible.

@Randy

Good to know. I'll get a set on the way.

Can anyone give me some input on what size range props I can expect to use and how much current I expect to draw? I can mentally size my power systems for my planes pretty easily.. boats are another matter and I have no idea how big of an ESC I'm going to need.

[Dr. Jet]

Can anyone give me some input on what size range props I can expect to use and how much current I expect to draw?

My hulls are drawing somewhere around 10~12 amps with a 29 mm Graupner prop and the 3000 Kv motor.

[Sneasle]

hmm. ok, I will go with the 30amp super simple from HC then. I've used them in planes and had good results.

Think the 2700kv will give me any difficulties?

[Dr. Jet]

Think the 2700kv will give me any difficulties?

No. You may even consider going 3S with a 2700 Kv motor and a small prop like an X427 for starters.

[Sneasle]

Sounds like a plan.

[RandyatBBY]

When making the templates use Medical Paper tape to hild the 1/2 together it will pull off with out ripping the card stock apart.

[Sneasle]

I guess I know what I am doing tonight!

Where did I put those notecards...

[JimClark]

I ordered a bunch of wood from national balsa last night. I could call them and see if they would add some more 1/8 lite ply for you then send it to you if you want. The $25.00 min order is what kills you

[Sneasle]

I ordered a bunch of wood from national balsa last night. I could call them and see if they would add some more 1/8 lite ply for you then send it to you if you want. The $25.00 min order is what kills you

Thanks, I appreciate it.

Doc, what kind of ply are the MH frames cut from?

[JimClark]

Doc and Randy just how much framing does on of these little babies actually need? I plan on filling the sponson's with foam and adding fiberglass to the inside of the tunnel area. What about supporting the deck?

Jim

[J Solinger]

I wonder if strategicly glueing some carbon fiber strips in the top and bottom would stiffen it up enough to forgo the wood frames?

[Sneasle]

Whoa.. this was a long evening.

After some severe mutilation of a nice stack of note cards, I have some frame templates made and transferred over to balsa.

The frames are pretty rough and were very hard to cut to fit this hull. The deck of this hull is not flat like the MTH, which made this very hard for me to do. Also, the angled indent in the bottom of the back of the hull near the transom causes my stringer to angle in. The angles of the top deck and the inside angle of the sponsons causes my stringer to tilt at an angle, even more so when you squeeze the deck on tight.

I'm sure there is a better way to do this, but I'm not sure how.

Jim, what I can offer to you is to make another copy of the front bulkhead, one stringer, and the transom piece and either make a copy/trace and mail it to you, or I can cut one of those out of balsa and mail you that. That will save some time on your end. If you want the templates, you can cut some balsa forms from that and refine the fit on your hull and then transfer that over to ply. If you want the balsa, you can directly fit them to your hull and then make some ply templates.

It would probably be a good idea to add a crossbrace in the front like in the Doc's frame, but I haven't done that yet.

I also checked my ply inventory and I don't have anything suitable to cut a set of frames from, nor does my LHS when I called them.

So.. whatcha think Jim,Randy,Joe,Doc?

[Sneasle]

More images

[JimClark]

Just scan the card templates you have and email me the scans. no need to send wood
Looks like a good start
Thanks much

Jim

[Sneasle]

Ok.

I'm gonna have to remake up one of the stinger templates.. I scavenged them to make the transom and bulkhead templates.

I'm about to head to bed, got a 9am class. I'll try and get them scanned and on their way to you at some time tmrw.

Glad you like it. I figured it would give you a decent starting point. Maybe we can talk Doc into refining them :).

[JimClark]

Anyone ever tried this to glue together these hulls?

http://www.micromark.com/SAME-STUFF-PROFESSIONAL-PLASTIC-WELDER-WITH-TOUCH-N-FLOW-APPLICATOR,9014.html

[Dr. Jet]

Doc, what kind of ply are the MH frames cut from?

1/32 aircraft ply.

Are the frames really necessary?

Yes and no. I have found that they add a lot of torsional rigidity. Coupled with foam-filled (and bonded) sponsons, my MTH is stiff as a board. With such a small hull, you may get away with some strategically-placed carbon and fiberglass, but that lacks the "Coolness Factor" of the wood, and I don't know if it would be as stiff.

Does it need to be that stiff? I don't know for certain, but I would rather have a rigid hull than one that flexes, and "soaks up" power in so doing.

Years ago, I used to race track bikes (fixed-gear, velodrome bicycles), where sprinting is the name of the game. Stiffer is better in that arena. My custom-built track bike used a downtube from a tandem bike (WAY heavy-duty), ovaled front fork blades for chainstays (WAY heavy duty), steel handlebars and stem, cross-4 spokes that were tied and soldered. It was the stiffest thing I ever rode. You felt every bump on the track. You could throw it through a brick wall. BUT...all that stiffness translated into every ounce of power going into speed, not flexing some wimpy frame. That bike was an absolute rocket!

I would suspect the same would apply to a boat hull. My Campbell hydro is equally stiff and I am amazed at how well it handles; it's like nothing I have had before (H&M Viper, various vacuum-formed hydros).

If you can keep it light, stiffer is better.

[Sneasle]

@ Jim

I haven't, but I would be worried it would eat/melt more of the abs then you really wanted. I plan on sticking with the Gorilla glue for joining my halves, and then using the cab-o-sil/epoxy method for getting rid of the lip.

@ Doc

Thanks for the info, we do appreciate it. Have a look at my images if you have time. Where would you suggest additional framework?

[RandyatBBY]

I think Gorila glue makes a mess, Ok on lexan. I use nothing but Thick, thin and med CA with kicker. I have not ran one of these boats with any FG or wood frame work. I just run a transom and turn fin doubbler (wood). With the power we have the stiffness will not hurt anything and the extra weight does helps. I just use lead for more weight.

[Sneasle]

Ya, gorilla glue can make a mess. I've used it quite a bit and have learned how to handle it.

Biggest thing to keep in mind is a little goes a long way. If you think you put just enough, wipe it off and put half that in it's place.

Plus, I like the foaming action :)

[JimClark]

I guess I missed something "cab-o-sil/epoxy method for getting rid of the lip" ?


@ Jim

I haven't, but I would be worried it would eat/melt more of the abs then you really wanted. I plan on sticking with the Gorilla glue for joining my halves, and then using the cab-o-sil/epoxy method for getting rid of the lip.

@ Doc

Thanks for the info, we do appreciate it. Have a look at my images if you have time. Where would you suggest additional framework?

[Sneasle]

The cab-o-sil and epoxy method is what Doc used in his MTH thread (the original SSSH thread I think) to get rid of the lip on his version 2 boat. The cab-o-sil is a filler of some sort.

Basically, you mix the stuff up and smear it into the lip after the halves are glued together. I think it should be thin enough to work it's way in, and then you go in and sand it down to bring that lip in line with the hull and make it nice and smooth. It will take several applications and lots of elbow grease, but that is how Doc got his hull as nice looking as it is.

[JimClark]

Ok I think I have brainstormed enough on this one and have a plan. I am going to make several frames for it and want a wide stringer to support the top (see picture below). I also would like to add balsa on the outside edges of the bottom to give a good glue surface for the top then I can hopefully sand off the top flange flush for a cleaner looking hull. I may put a light fiberglass over the edge also.

Jim

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/243809825_Suz2J-L.jpg

[Sneasle]

Sounds good. You still want my templates?


Question for Randy/Doc.

I notice that neither the hull edge or the deck edge is cut straight. What should I do to the hull to ensure that I get a good, even, twist free hull when I go to glue them together?

If I had a really big belt sander I would smooth the hull on that, but I don't.

[JimClark]

How bout just the side to side template

[Sneasle]

can do.

I'm going to cut the template at the joint with the forward bulkhead. That ok with you?

Just as a note, if you look at my images, you'll notice the stringers are taller then the bulkhead. That is because the stringer fit into a raised groove in the deck, while the bulkhead goes all the way across the hull and I didn't feel like doing the fancy cutting required to make it match up perfectly.

[Sneasle]

Jim, here is the outline for the formers. Let me know if you have any issues. There is a scale drawn to help you, you will probably have to rescale it to print it correctly.

[JimClark]

Thanks that will be a good starting point

[Sneasle]

np, anything I can do to help.

[JimClark]

I hope to work mine over this weekend. Likewise anything I come up with I will pass to others also.
Jim

[Sneasle]

Cool. Keep me updated.

[RandyatBBY]

Sounds good. You still want my templates?


Question for Randy/Doc.

I notice that neither the hull edge or the deck edge is cut straight. What should I do to the hull to ensure that I get a good, even, twist free hull when I go to glue them together?

If I had a really big belt sander I would smooth the hull on that, but I don't.


I set up my hulls on a building board. Then I set up the framers or carbon fiber chassis. If they are stright on the install, the transom will be flat to the table. Pic below.

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/7645/img1546hm8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[Sneasle]

I got that, but how do you trim the hull flat so the deck glues on flat?

[Dr. Jet]

Oh, I think I know where you are going......

The top of the hull (the deck) is curved both lengthwise and crosswise, so for a proper fit, the top edge of the hull is not straight. I believe you can actually see a faint trim line on the parts.

I use a long sanding block and a lot of trial fitting to get a good joint. I also take a fine line Sharpie pen and go over the trim line so I can see it better. Randy does a pretty good job of suppling the hull trimmed fairly close. I imagine many people have just glued them together as supplied by Randy.

Cats and V-hulls can be formed with a flat top on the hull, scale hydros aren't that easy most of the time.

[Sneasle]

Nope, let me clarify.

I am calling hull the bottom half of the boat. I am calling the deck the top portion of the boat that Randy supplies.

The upper edge of my 'hull is not cut straight around the perimeter, and so, when I put the 'deck' on, it does not line up straight. I can see the trim line in the 'deck', but I see no trim line in the 'hull'. So How do I go about trimming the top edge of the 'hull' straight so the deck, when glued, will be straight?

[RandyatBBY]

I got that, but how do you trim the hull flat so the deck glues on flat?

I use Gap filling CA that fills any gaps, what I am more conserned about is the bottom of the hull and how it sits on the table. The top is a shoe box and fits over the bottom. The rest is just visual. What matters is that the bottom edges are stright and square.

[Sneasle]

I'm just worried about the 'deck' warping during the gluing process if the top edge of the hull isn't straight.

With this shovel, I have to put a LOT of pressure on the back of the deck to keep the two halves together. I'm going to end up having to wrap it in several turns of masking tape as it easily pulls a single turn loose.

[Sneasle]

Any updates Jim?

[JimClark]

Nothing except I have a plan on how to get really good shapes for templates made just havent gotten to trying it.

Jim

[Sneasle]

cool. Progress is progress. Let me know if there is anything I can do to speed up the process for you.

[Sneasle]

Just got my 1.5oz fiberglass in today. My epoxy should be in later in the week or early next week. Hopefully we can get some progress going :).

[JimClark]

I got started on the frame templates hopefully have them done by this weekend. I'm thinking on filling the sponsons with foam instead of frames.

JIm

[Sneasle]

Why not frames and foam, copy how Doc did his hydro?

[JimClark]

I think it might be easier to just shape the foam and glue it in so the sponson will be solid foam. But we will see if it is too hard to shape frames it will be

Jim

[Sneasle]

ah, understood

[Sneasle]

Lookie what came in the mail today :)

[Sneasle]

and a few more...

[JimClark]

How many boats you building. I hope to have frame templates done this weekend.

Jim

[Sneasle]

I've got hulls for 6

2 mini partiots
2 turbine hydros
1 shovel
1 scat cat tunnel

Will probably build a few hydromites in the near future as well since short kits are available.

[JimClark]

It is a whole Micro race team

[Sneasle]

Yup. I've got 6 hulls and 4 radio's total. I plan on running them all on my MX-3s, but come 4th of july at the lake, assuming nice weather, I plan on having a nice race set up for the family.


I got my Epoxy and Marble dust filler in today as well.. now I just need to get my electronics ordered and the plywood so I can get these hulls moving.

[JimClark]

Marble dust?

[Sneasle]

Ya, it's a type of filler for epoxy resins. Haven't used it before but it was very cheap. 3lbs of filler material for $5.50, but shipping bumped the price some.. thankfully I ordered it with the epoxy so it made shipping more bearable.

[JimClark]

Ok in addition to starting to work on the frames I decided I wanted to trim the overlapping flange as much as possible on the sides as I need the space to put the graphics and I think it will look much better. There was one problem in that the top contacted the bottom in only two places just behind the sponsons and at the transom along the after plane of the hull. So I decdided to add some 1/32nd plywood to the after plane sides that were shaped so I would now have full contact with the top and would allow me to add a nice glue surface to the plywood. Only problem is I need to add more plastic or plywood so ship it out flush with the afterplane sides. Shouldn't be a problem and it should look just like it is all one piece when I am done.

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/465907195_JeF3V-L.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/465919345_zJUii-L.jpg

[RandyatBBY]

Jim I noticed that in the mold and added more material in that spot and raised the top of the bottom mold behind the turn fin. Sorry I did not catch it sooner.

[JimClark]

Randy what do you think of using a 062 wiredrive for the shaft of the micro.

Jim

[RandyatBBY]

Randy what do you think of using a 062 wiredrive for the shaft of the micro.

Jim


I have been trying to build my test boat to make sure the strut does not need to be too deep for a wire drive. Every time I just about get a kit done for me the good fortune of a customer coming threw the door and wanting a hardware set. On the old micro hydro the strut was not that deep and a wire drive would work fine. This boat the sponson's are a little deeper about 1/8 of an inch. It is a real short shaft and you do not want too much bend in it. To be safe use a flex shaft.

[JimClark]

Kind of what I thought I was just trying to do it with materials I already had.

Thanks Randy
Jim

[JimClark]

Finally some progress here are my frames. If anyone want to use them let me know I can send a pdf file via email. now I can make some progress.

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/483470024_BLdSk-L.jpg

[Sneasle]

*waves*

mememememe

I hope what I sent you way back when helped a bit.

[JimClark]

File sent

[RandyatBBY]

You can send me a PDF file I will try them too.

[JimClark]

Updated file sent to everyone

[JimClark]

I cut the frames out today and will drill lightning holes in some of them and in the next couple of days whe should have pictures of a hull with frames installed.
Alos just ordered the RightHand flex for the shaft today. Now allI need to get is paint and a couple of lipos
Jim

[JimClark]

Need to re work the frames and shape them to the boat and will have a revised set hopefully by the weekend.

Jim

[Sneasle]

sounds good, keep it up. Can't wait to see them when you finish.

[JimClark]

Ok updated templates are done. going to drill some lightning holes where I can and the shaded areas will be cut out. Final shaping on the top will have to happen when they are glued into the bottom and I can put the top on and look in to make sure the top is contacting the bottom and the frames properly. Hopefully I will be making a lot of progress this week as i have the week off and my main projects are to finish painting my 1/16th 67 Bardahl and make as much progress on the micro as I can.

Jim

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/491343568_oRvJd-XL.jpg

[JimClark]

We have progress. All frames, transom and sponson doubler's are glued in place.
Next check shape with top on and adjust where needed and possibly a piece couple of pieces of spruce running fore and aft along the underside of the hatch opening. I am going to attempt to fill and shape the sponsons with the urathane foam talked about in the UL-1 thread.

Jim

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/492094792_VLa6X-L.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/492094929_kBNpU-L.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/492094470_zSG8e-L.jpg

[Sneasle]

do you have a drawing of the piece that is running the length of the rear of the hull?

[JimClark]

No drawing it is just going to be a strip of 1/32 ply or a strip of balsa of a 1/8th square piece of spruce . The same principal as this picture

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/243809825_Suz2J-L.jpg

Jim

[Sneasle]

Ok, sounds good.

Since it really isn't worth me ordering ply, how thick a piece of balsa do you think I need to cut these frames from?

[JimClark]

I used 1/8th light ply instead of 1/32nd ply so I could have a good glue surface except on the #2 at the back of the sponson I used 1/32nd ply and two 1/32 ply doublers for ataching turn fin and water pickup. Probably 3/32 balsa would work out just fine

[JimClark]

I used 1/32 ply for the stringers

I also added two strips of 1.5 oz Glass cloth to the open area. Not sure if this is enough but I would rather add more them try to take some off after the fact. Got to try to figure out where the motor is going to go on this one.

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/493056511_TA9Pg-L.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/493056657_whZ9E-L.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/493056751_fhXDL-L.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/493056871_LnTnD-L.jpg

Jim

[JimClark]

Ok I think I will run one of these PolyRC Batteries either

7.4V 1500mAh (2 cells) 25C/50C
Rating: 25C (37.5A) continuous, 50C (75.0A) burst
Dimension: 105mm x 32mm x 15mm
Weight: 84 grams

or

7.4V 2200mAh (2 cells) 25C/50C
Rating: 25C (55.0A) continuous, 50C (110.0A) burst
Dimension: 107mm x 32mm x 17mm
Weight: 112 grams

And think I am going to put the motor mount at 7 inches forward of the transom that places the motor at just slightly aft of the CG and gives me loads of room for batteries and esc in the nose. Going to make a small aluminum mount for it and reinforce the motor mount area with more glass and some plywood also. anyone got any good ideas for bullet connectors for the ESC to Motor> very tiny wires look very small in a 3.5mm Bullet.


Jim

[JimClark]

Motor, Strut and shaft locations Flex shaft is .098
http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/493175123_2UyQv-L.jpg

[Sneasle]

What hardware is this?

[JimClark]

It is the same strut you got from ebay. I only bought the strut and will use the solinger micro rudder

[Sneasle]

AH, ok. My shaft was drilled off center... so one of my drive line sets is unusable.

[JimClark]

I am using a octura flex and one of their stub shaft

[Sneasle]

hmnm.. got part numbers for those?

[JimClark]

Steve has them
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-oc098L-24c

[JimClark]

Anyone have any recommendation for paint for an abs hull? Preferably something that works with airbrushes.
Got my garage all set up for painting and am going to sit the micro aside now and paint the 1/16th scale Bardahl I have been working on.

Jim

[Sneasle]

Good question, Something I've been trying to figure out as well.

I almost wonder if you could spray a rattle can into a container and then transfer that to the airbrush...

Airbrush paints are just so damn expensive..

[RandyatBBY]

Hi Guys back from Az. House of color paint is what I use. They have little bottles all mixed for air brush for $11.00 to $18.00 a bottle.

[Sneasle]

How little is 'little' and where can it be had?

[JimClark]

Randy I only seem to find metalics and pearals no just solid colors. What other brand works well on aABS?

Jim

[RandyatBBY]

Randy I only seem to find metalics and pearals no just solid colors. What other brand works well on aABS?

Jim

You can use Krylon or Fusion rattle Or any auto paint

[RandyatBBY]

How little is 'little' and where can it be had?

they are 2 and 4 Oz. bottles they can be bought from any Auto body suply store.

[JimClark]

More progress. I added blind nuts for turn fins and watercooling and reinforced the motor mount area with 1/32 ply
http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/495237931_eNpDa-M.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/495238047_cJfDb-M-1.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/495238106_k6ByF-M.jpg

Jim

[JimClark]

I know I have not been working on this for a while now. Just toooooooooooo many other things getting in the way. Today I tried a test of the urathane pour foam in an extra cowl i got from Randy to make sure it doesn't react badly to the plastic Randy uses. It seems just fine it got a little warm but nothing bad and it did absolutely nothing to the cowl. Seems like great stuff and the next step will be to pour it into the sponsons and shape them in preparation for joining the top and bottom. Hopefully get this thing done fairly quickly.

jim

[Sneasle]

sounds like some interesting stuff. is it available in small qty's anywhere?

[JimClark]

smallest i have seen it is in a one pint can. It is a two part and there is one pint of each in the kit.
Jim

[Sneasle]

hmm.. ok.

Where do you get it? How much does it expand?

[JimClark]

I got mine at a local company named Fiberlay somewhere on here there is a thread talking about the foam and there are links where you can order it.

Jim

[JimClark]

Got the Foam shaped still need to seal it where I sanded then I can loin the two halfs. Also working on the dashboard.

She is coming together

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/523551598_fxYWP-L.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/523551717_cuYfU-L.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/523551802_Hzgy8-L.jpg

[Sneasle]

Looking very nice.

Somehow I managed to loose my list of motors/esc's I had planned for my hulls. I'm not at a loss as to what I wanted to use in this boat. Can't figure out if it was that little 380L 2700kv motor or something else..

Were you gonna run one of the little mystery motors?

[JimClark]

yes one of the little Mystery 3000hv motors and esc

[JimClark]

Designed the tail today and glued the two pieces of the hull together

Jim

[Sneasle]

Nice Jim.

My cash is major tight so I haven't been able to do much of anything hobby wise sadly. Hopefully I can pick up some ply and cut me those frames in the next few weeks.

[JimClark]

Alright update day


http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/549441889_s7Gnj-L.jpg
The driver figure

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/549442092_Xa3vD-L.jpg
The Allison under construction

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/549442176_82hiz-L.jpg
Allison

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/549441773_a3TdA-L.jpg

Jim

[Sneasle]

nice, looks good.

mind if I do a mini hijack of your thread Jim? It's kinda related, but kinda not.

[ace028]

Looking good, I love your builds, they are always clean, and have outstanding pics!!!

[JimClark]

Thanks I need to update as I now have the tail made and attached and it is starting to look like a boat. Just haven't had a lot of time to work on it as i have been repairing my old 1/10th scale that I sold when I got out of racing. The guy I sold it to got hit and there was a fair amount of damage to it.
updates soon
Jim

[JimClark]

Here is my update finally the motor is finished
http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/589064654_NC2Bw-L.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/589064718_XYLNc-L.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/589064787_4xeDE-L.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/589064897_ap9tD-L.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/589070847_VGkUf-L.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/589070854_jCbXx-L.jpg

Next up sealing the wood on the motor and getting ready to gear it up.


Jim

[JimClark]

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/589070842_yCJtk-L.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/589064530_yYLGh-L.jpg

[Sneasle]

Looks great, keep it up.

[screwball]

i just read through all 5 pages of this build and it looks amazing!!!!


i cant wait to see the finished product

[JimClark]

An update as I have this week off so I plan on working on it some in between the Blue Angles and the Unlimited Hydros this week. My camera is going to be very busy Thursday Friday and Saturday

Anyway I have made the servo bracket, Motor mount, added 1/64th plywood to the sponsons to sharpen the edges, mounter the rudder and the strut.

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/603914137_TbRYn-L.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/603914612_vm4jv-L.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/603915078_szkQN-L.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/603915367_2vTmf-L.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/603915878_DSZVz-L.jpg

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/photos/603916014_7Rqsu-L.jpg

Full gallery here
http://jimclark.smugmug.com/gallery/7249767_aeqAj/1/603916563_bcfUB

[Waksk8n]

Jim, Can you please send me the PDF file for frames. How is the build coming?

[JimClark]

Sure it is just kind of sitting there almost ready for paint
now if I can just find it

Jim

[befu]

Ok I have now received one of Randy's micro dropped sponson hydros. I plan on reinforcing the interior with a combination of wood frames and fiberglass. Never having worked on a vacuum formed hull before I was wondering about what weight of fiberglass to get? Any ides on reinforcing would be appreciated as all I have done is scratch built wood or a carbon hull that was ready for finishing.

http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/1577/img1537ir8.jpg

So which boat is this? Is this a BBY hull? haven't seen it on any site. I also imagine that it is in the 16" - 18" range? Might have gotten into these instead of the 1/16 scale I bought if I had known about it earlier.

Oh-well.

Brian

[JimClark]

Yes it is Randy's from BBy It is 15.5 inches long
jim


So which boat is this? Is this a BBY hull? haven't seen it on any site. I also imagine that it is in the 16" - 18" range? Might have gotten into these instead of the 1/16 scale I bought if I had known about it earlier.

Oh-well.

Brian

[JimClark]

Ok should be more progress on this as I am going to finish it the same time I am working on the other two boats. Hope to have it ready for paint this weekend. So more pictures should be forth coming in a few days. I installed the motor mount today and hopefully will have the stuffing tube done tomorrow and it all sealed up with epoxy. Only thing left after that is to add a little bit of glass on the sides where i had to add the wood then a little filler to blend it in nicely and she is ready for paint.
Jim

[JimClark]

More progress soon on this after I finish my sale of racing gear. But here is the finished driver figure. hee looks kind of crosseyed so not sure if he will be able to steer straight or not.

Jim

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG9649/814135705_UoGUi-XL.jpg

[JimClark]

Finally getting around to getting paint on this hydro. Hull is all white and spraying some of the green on right now hopefully some pictures to come in a couple of days.

Jim

[Waksk8n]

Jim, Who makes the strut and shaft set up you are going to be using?

[JimClark]

Strut is a chineese one I got on ebay the rudder is a Solinger you can maybe get one from Joe but not sure if he is making anything right now.
like this but not colored
http://cgi.ebay.com/RC-Boat-small-strut-28mm-deep-3-18mm-/260480653578?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Radio_Controlled_Vehicles&hash=item3ca5db590a

but steve has it also
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-80046

[j.m.]

Guys, make sure if you do glass the hull that the fibers are running at +\- 45* to the centerline of the boat. This is for torsional stiffness. I'm sure the plywood ribs add plenty of longitudinal stiffness, but you don't want your transom twisting in a hard turn.

2 layers of 1.5 oz glass with e appropriate amount of epoxy would only add at most 2 ounces to the hull, probably less.

Jon

[JimClark]

mine is glassed down the center section and with the frames it is very solid and I did not worry about the +\- 45*

[JimClark]

Ok some pictures of the progress

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG5985/853553936_JYRAa-L.jpg (http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/7249767_aeqAj#853553936_JYRAa-A-LB)

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG5986/853553955_MZXyv-L.jpg (http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/7249767_aeqAj#853553955_MZXyv-A-LB)
http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG5987/853553977_abVXJ-L.jpg (http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/7249767_aeqAj#853553977_abVXJ-A-LB)

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG5989/853553991_5ceAA-L.jpg (http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/7249767_aeqAj#853553991_5ceAA-A-LB)

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG5991/853554012_LtuEH-L.jpg (http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/7249767_aeqAj#853554012_LtuEH-A-LB)

[JimClark]

Hull is almost ready for clear. Cowl should be ready by by next weekend and cleared. Should be ready to run it on Memorial day weekend.

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG1444/868919900_Uz9EJ-L.jpg (http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/7249767_aeqAj#868919900_Uz9EJ-A-LB)

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG1446/868920328_DKhfD-L.jpg (http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/7249767_aeqAj#868920328_DKhfD-A-LB)

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG1448/868920670_KQukp-L.jpg (http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/7249767_aeqAj#868920670_KQukp-A-LB)

[Xfactor]

I like it I like it. R u gonna go 3 s?Wire drive?

[Xfactor]

Nice stand too by the way:cool2:

[JimClark]

Only 2s and a .098 flex shaft and a x430 prop


I like it I like it. R u gonna go 3 s?Wire drive?

[JimClark]

More progress only thing left is to paint the cockpit black, make a windshield and clearcoat.
WooHoo this is gonna be fun running this
http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG1454/871482651_Rzfzr-M.jpg
http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG1455/871482895_DTBSq-M.jpg
http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG1456/871483209_QtTgg-M.jpg
http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG1457/871483466_2CFcE-M.jpg
http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG1459/871483717_J5bVm-M.jpg
http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG1460/871483946_HTzSY-M.jpg

[JimClark]

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG1461/871484424_9Em7z-M.jpg
http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG1462/871484814_HKZMq-M.jpg

[ABPMotorSport]

want to see it run.

[JimClark]

You will my son just got a new camera with really good HD video.
Jim

[RandyatBBY]

It is looking great Jim,I can not wait for the video:banana:

[JimClark]

Thanks Randy Has anyone run one of these yet?


It is looking great Jim,I can not wait for the video:banana:

[RandyatBBY]

Thanks Randy Has anyone run one of these yet?

Not sure, I have been so busy I have not finished mine yet. I just do not get to the pond enough lately. It should work great the hull is done correctly I have only made about 10 total

[JimClark]

All right we have clear coating. Let it dry a couple of days and throw it together thursday and Friday and Run her on Sunday.

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG6009/877674638_fcc3w-L.jpg (http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/7249767_aeqAj#877674638_fcc3w-A-LB)

http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG6012/877674685_rJZiU-L.jpg (http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/7249767_aeqAj#877674685_rJZiU-A-LB)

[Sneasle]

Got any shots of the internals installed?

What coupler, drive line, and prop did you use?

[JimClark]

waiting for the clear to harden another day then I will throw it tigether. Coupler made by either Jeff oe Ned Schmidt. .098RH Flex and an octura x430 R prop

full gallery here http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/7249767_aeqAj#465907195_JeF3V

[Xfactor]

Nice man nice

[bonewar]

waiting for the clear to harden another day then I will throw it tigether. Coupler made by either Jeff oe Ned Schmidt. .098RH Flex and an octura x430 R prop

full gallery here http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/7249767_aeqAj#465907195_JeF3V

WOW Jim,

That is one beautifully crafted hydro.
I love your engine detail , looks awesome.
Well done mate.:thumbup1:

Bonewar :rockon2:

[JimClark]

Thanks Bonewar and xfactor

[RandyatBBY]

Thanks Bonewar and xfactor

I wish I could mold those parts, they are gorgeous! But at the present time I am working on a set of three riggers so I can not evan make my own.

[JimClark]

Was going to try for the Maiden voyage this weekend but just too many things to do and not enough time to work on the boat so the first run will be postponed at least a few days.

[RandyatBBY]

Any news yet Jim?
I took the plans home to make a template to build motor parts, soon to come.

[JimClark]

Randy this little Oberto will for sure run this year. If the water is good enough it will run at the first race I am running with Puget Sound fast electrics on 6/25
Sorry it took sooooooooo Longggggggggg
http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/IMG1462/871484814_HKZMq-L.jpg (http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/7249767_aeqAj#871484814_HKZMq-A-LB)

[Sneasle]

Looks really nice. Now if only I would sit down and put some time into my hulls I could have some fun little toys to play with on the water.

Did you use the little 'mystery motor' combo from Dr. Jets hydro thread, or something else? I don't even remember anymore.. wow that's sad.

[JimClark]

It has been a long time but yes the Dr Jet Mystery outrunner

[JimClark]

She is all ready to go and smooth water permitting she will run this Saturday video to follow

[JimClark]

Tried to run today got a couple of laps in but it has major ESC issues I need to find another one for it. Off to the B&S Forum. Mostly hap[py once I got it running it is only 2s ( no room for a 3s pack) but i think is runs fine but can probably tweak it some. I know it needs more rudder travel but before I make any changes I want to get another esc and run it two or three times more to decide which way to go with this.


http://jimclark.smugmug.com/Radio-Control/Micro-Hydro-Build/7249767_aeqAj#1389800601_zHqSZdQ-A-LB

[JimClark]

I know this has been on the back burner but this will be resurected shortly and finally get a good run. I figured out what my ESC problems were. It was me not programming turns out the default for the ESC I had was for 3s I was using 2s so hence it would not run. Got another ESC anyway and am going to us it as it has a program carg much easier to program. Going to use a turnigy plush 30 amp this time.

Jim