What ESC for Q Mono oval racing

[zooma]

I am running 6S2P with TP Power 1650 KV motor and ABC 1815 prop. Have burned up SeaKing 180, MTZ Seal 200, Swordfish 220, and Swordfish 240.

What are you guys using that works?

[StevenBryant]

Swordfish 220 works well for me


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[Fluid]

The problem is not the ESC. IME the motor Kv is excessive for a racing mono. I raced my Q sport hydro with a 1250 Kv motor and was very competitive. That high Kv TP motor will draw a lot of amps if the boat is set up even slightly wet or the prop is a little too large, which the OP’s experience shows. OTOH he doesn’t give us much to go on...

Exactly what hull is he running? Exactly what packs? How long are the wires between ESC and packs? Is he using an external cap bank? How many mAhs is he using in a six lap heat? What are the temps on his motor, packs and ESC? How much part throttle does he use in a heat?

[RaceMechaniX]

Listen to Fluid, that motor is too HOT. You want something around 1100-1250kv. Then go back and run the SF220X.
You need a 400A ESC to keep up with that motor even with small props.

[zooma]

OK. I understand the advice, and I'm thinking of going to a TP Power 4070 1090 KV. How does that sound?

Hull TFL Ariane 2
Batts Giant Power 6S2P 5000 mah 70C
Prop ABC 1814-17 or 1815-17
Wires that came on the motor & ESC
8mm motor connectors
Temps warm to the touch, not excessive
Almost no part throttle
Nothing smokes, ESC just quits

[RaceMechaniX]

That's a better combination. I assume you are running two 5000 packs and not 2500's. 10-12,0000 is pretty typical for a Q mono.
Does the ESC quit and die or quit and come back? If it pauses and come back you are likely thermalling the ESC or hitting a low voltage cut-off limit.
I suggest adjusting your timing to 5Deg and setting your LVC to 3.2-3.5V/cell.

[zooma]

That's a better combination. I assume you are running two 5000 packs and not 2500's. 10-12,0000 is pretty typical for a Q mono.
Does the ESC quit and die or quit and come back? If it pauses and come back you are likely thermalling the ESC or hitting a low voltage cut-off limit.
I suggest adjusting your timing to 5Deg and setting your LVC to 3.2-3.5V/cell.

Yes two 5000s. I set LVC at 2.8 volts. It's not brownouts.

ESCs are either dying in a race, or being dead the next time I power-up. No heat, no smoke, but often a faint burnt electronics smell.

I am not trying find a motor that will run on cheap ESCs. I want the boat to be competitive in Q class, and trying to find out what the successful racers are using.

Last year I was running this boat with a Leopard 4092 1480 KV with up to an Octura x450 prop. The ESC logs showed average amps of 150 or so. I was always running second place to a guy with the same boat and a TP 4070 1650KV motor and SF 240 ESC, so I copied that. He is not having problems, even with bigger props than me.

[jaike5]

Competitive and cheeeep don’t go well together... just say’n!!
Cheers, Jay.

[RaceMechaniX]

Unfortunately there are not a lot of good 6S ESC's. A converted Castle Creations ICE or EDGE 200 or a SF300 are your best choices from what's currently available today and not too expensive.
If you were running 2-pole motors, you could consider an MGM 28026. However that ESC does not work well with 4-pole motors like the TP's and Neu's.
It sounds like there is a some significant difference in your set-up that's causing higher current. i.e. the boat is running wet or your driveline is not free. Pictures of your set-up would help.
Other things to consider:
-Is the ESC getting wet?
-Are you battery and motor connections tight?
-Using good connectors?
-Wires are not too long?
-How is your cooling routed? In parallel or series?

[HTVboats]

Tyler,
Maybe I have a one off exception but my MGM 28026 has been working well on my 1415,1512 and 1515 Castles in P boats and presently with a 4060 TP 3y 2100kv in my P mono. I believe I have the P-16 delay set at 1.0 while MGM tech says it should be higher. It does delay coming to full throttle and at times during launch it seem to cog but goes away at speed. The 25035's work for me also but some local guys hate them. Just a side bar I sent two 25035's in for repairs and they told me they were not repairable due to water damage which was funny as I paid extra for full water proofing. Needless to say I am not replacing them when they don't back their product in my opinion.
Mic

[RaceMechaniX]

Hello Mic,
Yeah there are a couple known exceptions. The Castle motors seem to work pretty good. I have a 1717 and a 28026 which run quite happy together. Wye (Y's) seems to work better than D's with the MGM's. Although I completely demagnetized a Neu 2215 1.5Y in 30 seconds with a 40063, while I can run a Castle 2028 with the same 40063 all day long in the same boat with the same set-up. Both are Wye winds and very similar, but polar opposite results.

On your 25035's did you get the water proof or water resistant option? The later is just conformal coating and works decently, but it not 100%. The water proof one is fully potted with epoxy and should not fail due to water.

[fweasel]

I ran a 25035 last season with a TP motor in my Genesis. It performed well. I have the fully potted version, hard to imagine those could be damaged by water.

[HTVboats]

I paid the extra for fully water proof which my 28026 has also and has been submerged and still lives. Maybe I didn't get what I thought I was paying for? I did run Castle 1520's with no issues on the 25035's. Back to the original question on what is out there for 6S. If anyone would consider making a "limited" class for "Q", say a 40X74mm max, you would have performance with reasonable cost. I think numbers would grow similar to the P limited classes. Jumping into full P or Q requires an investment in ESC's. A limited Q would give racers an option to run quite a bit faster than P/limited with larger hulls at reasonable cost.
Mic

[RaceMechaniX]

Personally I am against another limited class for many reasons which was aired out in another thread. I don't want to reopen that discussion.
From my perspective it is not difficult to build a low cost reasonable Q boat. It does take a lot of testing and finding good combinations, but the same is true for all the P-limited boats out there.
A Castle 1717 and ICE 200 converted make a very good combination for mono's, sport hydro, cat's and hydro's. It's hard to get much cheaper than that.

[zooma]

I don't think I could make my own water cooling strips/tubes. What about the cooling plates that are in the OSE store.

[RaceMechaniX]

Cooling plates will not work on the Castle ESC's. Do a search for "Castle cooling" you will find several good threads on modifying car ESC's for water cooling.

[zooma]

Cooling plates will not work on the Castle ESC's. Do a search for "Castle cooling" you will find several good threads on modifying car ESC's for water cooling.

true, but everything looks custom machined.

[K.R.Joye]

Surprised no one mentioned ETTI HV ESC I use the 240HV in my Scales and Qs with no issues. They affordable and very underrated http://www.etti.com.hk/product_info.php?cPath=3&products_id=396&osCsid=c65b016a4ae34cd953fc67de733dbfec

[meangenesracing]

Surprised no one mentioned ETTI HV ESC I use the 240HV in my Scales and Qs with no issues. They affordable and very underrated http://www.etti.com.hk/product_info.php?cPath=3&products_id=396&osCsid=c65b016a4ae34cd953fc67de733dbfec

100% agree I have 2 of them work fine on 10s