PRO BOAT UL-19_How to run on 6S with stock prop

[sammyha]

I'm done with this, sammyha...



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[MADRCER]

Looks like you have a lot of time on your hands to write all this up. I'm sure people will appreciate your input on this boat. A flat bottom strut acts as a "trim tab" and it works decent on this boat as you know. Some have changed them out to the round version but it really depends on which one works for your style of running. A couple of things you need to do.
1. Get rid of the deans plugs and put at least EC5's on your battery before you have to rescue it from a wire coming unsoldered from the Amp draw from this boat.
2. Add more gap at your strut and drive dog *4-5mm (including the Teflon washer).
3. Get rid of that OEM flex cable and get a OSE upgraded cable or get kfxguy on here to make you one up or you will be purchasing a new prop and a cable.
Happy Boating!

[sammyha]

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[MADRCER]

Congrats on obtaining your goal! Also, If you continue to use 6s and try to corner very hard with the stock fin you will need to reinforce the inside of the hull where the turn fin mounts to the sponson because the small mount is too small doesn't cover enough area on the hull and the force of the fin in a "hot" turn will cause the hull to split in that area. It's a 10 minute project worth doing before it actually cracks.

[sammyha]

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[eric113]

UL is looking good.
I would do this upgrade. If you are interested I can talk to crazed build to make one for you.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/b8a74659812f54abe936da738b2987c8.jpg

[sammyha]

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[eric113]

I can get him to tie front into mounts if you like.
Darin modded his tray and tied into the front mounts.
But when I Raced my UL in the pic above I never had any issues with flexing as far I could tell.

[boatsrnew2me]

read the whole thread ,watched some your videos .your doing well .my only critique would be the rudder cooling mods .while it looks like it would work well i got to wonder how much extra drag those tubes are causing ?
the effect they have on steering?
the extra drag they create can also make the rudder "pull" on the transom .

there's a reason a rudder has a knifes edge on it so to speak .you added 2 speed bumps

those are just my thoughts .other then that you seem be doing well .

[sammyha]

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[MADRCER]

Sammie. It's obvious you edited or 'doctored up" your 100% all stock UL-19 video that supposedly hits 74.7mph on the stock prop that you prepped. It didn't dong on me until the "click sound" at the 5:13 mark in the video as you were reaching for the gps and I noticed the video changed suddenly when the "click" is heard at the 5:13 mark in the video. It's obvious that part of the video was from before your run...The other big giveaway was your cooling line being off of the esc when you were pulling the gps out of the boat that "displayed 74.7mph" after you pulled the boat from the water. You can see the ESC cooling line had been disconnected from you installing the battery in the boat in the "walk around" picture at the 5:47 mark as well. The ESC cooling line had to be removed when you initially put the batteries in the boat due to the tight fit around your second cooling tube exit that you have on the boat. You must have forgot that you had left the esc cooling line off while you were "reverse engineering" the run, when you filmed that portion of the video...LOL. However you didn't forget to put it on before you actually ran the boat as you can see when you are placing the "cleared out gps" in the boat at the 2:02 minute mark in the video the esc cooling line was on... The boat would have been full of water if you would have made your run with the ESC cooling line off during that run...LOL! Again almost a great job on this one and everyone knows that the Garmin Forerunner and Fortrex series gps units will dispay the last mph reading when they are turned on....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_L36UTNxg8

160716 160717 160718


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_L36UTNxg8&t=4s

[rcboone2000]

Good catch madrcer the run was very short and looked to be 50 to 60 mph.It looked to be running the same speed mine did stock

[MADRCER]

Good catch madrcer the run was very short and looked to be 50 to 60 mph.It looked to be running the same speed mine did stock

Exactly! Here is a video of how the "Fake news" 74.7mph all stock with self prepped prop was reverse engineered....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKK5TtFI18E&t=1s


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKK5TtFI18E&t=1s

[MADRCER]

well well well....Is he finally going to come clean? A new video is released saying "call off the dogs".. Let's see if he is going to do the right thing...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wOH1Q00d29g


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wOH1Q00d29g

[sammyha]

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[MADRCER]

66.7mph and 74.7mph is a long ways apart Brother...71.2mph or 71.8mph is a long ways off from the "super fake run" of 74.7mph also. 70-71mph is about tops for the stock prop. Buy you a Chris Hoffmann (dasboata) prepped abc prop and you will be in mid 70's with of course a good tune, If he will sell you one since you threw the slur out on your YouTube comment you posted. sad, sad, sad...

[Bp9145]

Man, this thread started out so good. For someone who's new to boats, I was actually impressed with sammy for his mods, observations and corrections. Also, for him to take advice from everyone was great. But his detailed observations on the boats behavior during his runs was impressive because I can guarantee you most newbies are not like you sammy. Now, you just have to do another video and like you said unedited. . .straight video without having the boat out of the picture for even a second. But you can see most of the experienced guys here have been there and done that and they know what's going on. Mark, holds the record for two of his boats with only thing that is not stock is his awesome Dasboata prepped props. But the way he did his videos, there are no doubts at all his videos are doctored up and he makes no secret how his setups are as he will share his setups with anyone.. . .a great guy as some don't but have big big claims. So do another video and take a look at how Mark did his videos and go from there. So good luck with getting it in the mid 70's mph.

[sammyha]

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[MADRCER]

Just upload the original file to YouTube and all can see it. It's that simple. YouTube doesn't have a limit on the size of the file. All of my videos are over 1GB and they upload fine. As for speed feel free to claim what you want to claim...Btw the gps showed 95 mph on my veles 29 run last week but I didn't claim it because it was a bad gps reading I am experienced enough to know what is a real number and what is a wrong number.

160729

[sammyha]

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[MADRCER]

I thought about doing that, but as much as you've tore apart my cred here and on YouTube I did not think you would believe that.

I will upload the single file of my 74.7 mph run straight from my phone to YouTube now...

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Lets see if the "thud and click" with the cameras shake at the 5:13 minute mark is any better in this one along with the crop feature when you reveal the speed of the boat in this one. Also the slow mo portion shows water blasting out your water cooling tubes as well so your cooling tubes were on during the run but not when you wanted us to see the 74.7mph number. As posted in a previous post by a member your boat don't even appear to be going much over 60mph in the video.

[sammyha]

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[MADRCER]

Not proving nothing to me cause I've done proved your running portion of the vid was edited and you backed me by not being able to duplicate the run speed in three runs today, not even coming within 3-4mph of the edited 74mph run and one run being 8mph off the blistering pace you claimed in the video....If your run video is the same as the one on YouTube now, you are wasting your time. Because it has clearly been edited at the 5"13 minute mark. No one cares about the "Life of Pie" canoe ride, its the run part and you say it is the same one as on the tube now then that's not going to clear you of anything. I guess you avoided my question of why the flooding water was coming out of the water cooling exit tubes in the slow mo portion of the video at the end also...huh?

[sammyha]

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[MADRCER]

I'll bet you can't run another 71.8 mph pass either...

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Still avoiding my water cooling question from above I see....The difference between me and you is I don't talk about what I'm going do... it just happens and everyone else talks about it for me...

[sammyha]

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[MADRCER]

I haven't lost nothing...LOL! Again still avoiding the question why the water cooling is spitting water out the side of the boat in the slow mo clip....

3:40 is the magic number in this video.....still been edited....same crap except without the life of pie portion...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0zDgz9SGKs


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0zDgz9SGKs

[TheShaughnessy]

I agree something seems off with the video and the whole cooling line thing is red flagish. However, from a pure theoretical standpoint 74 should be an achievable speed on the stock prop using 6s

[sammyha]

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[Newboater]

Putting up a strong run...

https://youtu.be/OJot1DGyXvo

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Good job Sammyha video looks totally legit to me. How about we all just get along now and stop quibbling over the much smaller gap in speed.

[sammyha]

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[Scratcher405]

Dear MADRCER, 95 mph isn't too bad for a Veles 29, but my calibrated eyeballs are getting readings over 100 mph every time with my Veles :)

But seriously, thank you for all your help getting my boat set-up. You've helped so many of us new to the sport by taking the time to answer every question regardless how obvious they seem.

[sammyha]

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[CraigP]

Nice speed bursts! Looks fast! But I think you’re missing the whole point on the UL-19. The boat is meant to corner. It’s much more exhilarating to turn a hydro such as that at full speed, see it carve and wonder/worry about it coming out clean. Personally, I think you should build a model drag boat, something designed for what you’re interested in. Just seems like you’re not getting the true hydro experience... Tuning for fast corners AND decent straightaway speed is a challenge to any boat tuner! Thank you for the videos!

[martin]

Yeah build something like a Zippkits JAE 33 rigger, relatively cheap to build & will turn like its on rails. Can also be set up for SAW running with some blistering speeds, you also don't need glass water all the time.

[sammyha]

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[CraigP]

Class racing for the UL-19 would be restricted to 4s, by rule. So to race, you must master the low volt, high amp setups. I run all my boats on high voltage, lower amp setups, to enjoy extended run times. Being a sports boater, I would probably set up the UL-19 for 8s on a 1050kv motor... A rigger is an excellent all around hull!

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[CraigP]

Notice I said a 1050kv motor... About 30K rpm’s, put a ABC 1715 on it. Folks have trouble wrapping their heads around high voltage setups for the intent of lowering current draw. Twice the volts, half the amps. What draws the batteries down? Amps! I think the UL-19 stock has the wrong KV in it to run 6s reliably. You need a 1400kv motor in there to make the boat really fun to run and enjoy the longer run times. I’d put that Leopard 4074, 1400kv motor in there. I got that setup in my UL-1. It’s smaller than your boat and I have to prop down to keep it sane, but it runs for 5-6minutes turning some blistering laps!

[sammyha]

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[MADRCER]

160791

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_xgzEDXuGM


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_xgzEDXuGM

[sammyha]

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[boatsrnew2me]

160797

[sammyha]

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[boatsrnew2me]

Oh man! That is a good one!!! [emoji23]

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oh you caught that before i changed it ...lol. yeah couldnt get a gif to load

[sammyha]

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[MADRCER]

The second gps is about 10 years old and has a refresh scan rate of 1hz (reads 1 time per second) and it can't think as fast as the new technology the Dynamite has. The Dynamite scans on 10hz (reads 10 times per second). That's why I explained the gps data log in my video. I've seen that on several test if you don't hold the speed for more than a few seconds the old outdated garmins won't pick up the speed the boat "peaked at" if you just hit the speed for a split second. Below is a member on here's test of the two gps devices. Clearly the new technology is faster...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZfRoMprTro


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZfRoMprTro

[sammyha]

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[CraigP]

Guys, this is becoming a cat fight... let’s just drop the rhetoric and get along. You guys both have fast boats and unless you bring them to a SAW event and get them officially timed, you could go back and forth forever!

All GPS units don’t have sub MPH accuracy or repeatability you both are claiming so just go and have fun. I’m sure if you guys got together, you’d just pull some beer tabs together and have a good laugh. But I think the rest of us are getting a little tired of coming on the site and seeing these posts. I ask that you guys raise the bar in the conversation.

I’m wondering about the absence of any moderators....

[Newboater]

It seems the Moderators only get involved when you violate the rules in the "For Sale section" ……………...

[sammyha]

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[CraigP]

Very nice machining and fitting! This is a big part of the sport, and where you really make a connection to your boat. Please keep posting your upgrades!

[sammyha]

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[martin]

Make sure that the Aeromarine coupling releases on the flex when you undo the coupling, these type of couplings with the separate brass piece can tend to be a bit of a pig either getting the brass collet to release from both the coupling taper & the flex.

[sammyha]

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[martin]

A lot of the Chinese couplings of this design can be a problem getting the brass collet to release from the flex even after getting them to release from the taper, you can also use some anti seize paste on the outer taper & thread parts to get the coupling nice & tight without putting to much pressure on the wrenches, this stops galling of the stainless. only put this on the outer tapers & threads & not on the flex, a number on the forum use anti seize on their coupling threads to good effect.

[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

This whole thread is amazing. Well done

[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

Thanks! That's good to hear...

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I may pick your brain a bit as I begin this journey with mine. It's on its way to me :-)

[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

[


QUOTE=sammyha;723334]Perfect. That is why I started this post. I believe most anyone with a bit of talent and the right info can succeed at anything.

Many times the right info is out there, but scattered.

I'll be super interested in your progress, so definitely share it here.

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I will for sure!

[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

Sam,

I just got my boat delivered this weekend and have done a LOT of reading about the correct set-up etc., much of that content coming from you. I have a question to pose to you: this being my first venture into RC boats, I am definitely interested in going fast but probably not full blown pure speed runs, or "SAW's" as they are reffered to, at this point. I would simply like to be able to cruise the boat around at somewhere in the 60mph range and not have it overheat. To accomplish this, I have ordered a Chris Hoffman (Dasboata) prop, the dual intake rudder, an upgraded (stronger but same diameter) flex shaft from OSE and a few sets of 3S batteries to run the boat at 6S. That being said, if you had to pick the top 1-2-3? things I need to do to accomplish this goal, what would you recommend? From all that I've read it sounds like it really comes down to just rasing the strut height from how it comes stock. Thanks

[sammyha]

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[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

Thanks Sam! What eaxctly is a prop saver? I have a couple bullet nuts but I've heard they're dangerous to use as they can come off.

[scottyp]

Great stuff as always!

[sammyha]

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[JJROTOGEEK]

Hey this is a great thread, keep up the good work [emoji869] something to consider on your next boat and cooling mod, use an under hull dual intake, 8$ great cooling


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[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

Sam,

How in the world did you get the existing water outlet nipple out of the boat to replace with the 2 larger diameter outlets from OSE? I simply cannot get mine out. When I manage to get a socket around the bolt on the inside (not an easy feat in itself) and then stick a flathead screwdriver into the slot on the outsode of the nipple and start turn it, the flathead just strips the slot away as the aluminum is so soft. I feel like maybe the applied some sort of glue to the threading where the bolt is that caused it to bond solid.



For the rest of the cooling system upgrade I used...

Large 9/32" tubing.
The grommets for 6.8mm or large tubing.
Large outlets.

All purchased from Offshore Electrics website...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180729/4b2512586dce9717dc33c0cc719cb848.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180729/a759351979cf6e24740e53afc18d9878.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180729/36b19c108287f7efe049afeaffdf6566.jpg

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[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

Thanks as always. My boat is here and I'm feverishly starting all of the upgrades!


They were tough to get out. I chewed my screwdriver slots up some too, but got them out. Try heating the outlet with a small soldering iron. Or drill the outlet out completely.

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[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

I actually just bought one- what a handy little device! I'll keep you posted on the progress. Hoping to have her ready for water within 2 weeks given my busy travel schedule. I've got a S&B Dasboata 1716 prop ready to go, dual intake rudder (the one from RC Boat Bitz in AU which has two intake holes on each side of the rudder which I am hoping will alleviate the need to do your brass tube mod), an after-market turning fin that is apparently superior to the one that comes with it, both an upgraded OSE drive shaft and larger diameter one and just about everything else I need from connectors and larger bore nipples to keep the temps down. Once all that is installed I will do some adjustments to the strut height based off your posts here and hopefully be ready to go. I probably won't take my strut height/angle quite to the level you did as I'm not looking for all-out brute speed but I'm sure some small adjustment will help. Thanks again for all the intel.



Great! Sounds like you're getting right to it.

Do you have a temperature gun?

My cooling system upgrade on 6S with stock 1716 prop is good for 5 laps as hard as I can push it. Hitting 55ish plus mph. That's around 1-1/2 minutes.

I have run a fresh charge on my Revolectrix lipos for 3-1/2 minutes just mucking around. Running circles with some straight speed bursts of 60mph plus mixed in there. So, that's a pretty short run. But a ton of power and fun!

Comes in for both at 135ish on the esc and 125ish on the motor. Lipos were done after the 3-1/2 minute run at 3.8 volts per cell.

Just keep an eye on it, find out for yourself what it can handle...

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[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

Interesting, not sure how I missed that you had the same one. Any thoughts as to which system I should connect to the left side inlet? Motor or ESC?



Same rudder I bought. Had two inlets. Whichever system you hook up that gets water from the left side inlet will run hotter turning laps to the right. Be fine if you're not pushing it hard...

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[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

Good to know. The AU one is definitely better equipped to draw more water. Along with more intake holes (and larger diameter as well) the nipples on the top of the rudder have a larfer internal diameter as well. Did you by chance think about drilling out the intake/outflow nipples on your ESC by chance? Seems logical that if all of the intakes, exit nipples and internal diameter of the tubing is larger, it would all get bottlenecked with the smaller diameter holes on the ESC nipples. I drilled out my motor cooling jacket intakes/outflow nipples very easily. Thinking of doing the same with the ESC

[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

Well I'll be damned, I've actually possibly helped you! lol


Dang, that's a good tip. No, I didn't think of it , but I'll do it.

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[sammyha]

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[REDLINE1]

Sam,

How in the world did you get the existing water outlet nipple out of the boat to replace with the 2 larger diameter outlets from OSE? I simply cannot get mine out. When I manage to get a socket around the bolt on the inside (not an easy feat in itself) and then stick a flathead screwdriver into the slot on the outsode of the nipple and start turn it, the flathead just strips the slot away as the aluminum is so soft. I feel like maybe the applied some sort of glue to the threading where the bolt is that caused it to bond solid.

They put a lot of locktite on those outlets. On my Blackjack I actually had to drill it out. I was adding a second outlet so I just bought two new ones

[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

Sam,
DO NOT try to drill out those nipples. I just went to do it and one went ok and the next one snapped right off. Got super hot and snapped the whole nipple off then I couldn't get the nipple off the drill bit so I held the nipple with a pair of pliars and put the drill in reverse and it snapped the drill bit in half. I effectively ruined the ESC before I ever enven got to use it and it happens to be the most expensive part in the boat as well :-(. Unless I can somehow get Horizon or Amain or one of the Dynamite retailers to sell me just the cooling plate I've just ruined a brand new ESC :-(161376



Yes. You did. And that doesn't surprise me. You have good ideas of your own too. Try them out, pass em on...

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[sammyha]

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[sammyha]

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[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

You damn well might be onto something there! Well played, sir, well played. I'm going to give it a shot.




Like this...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180908/11c7d11249ebb28ca62768f5f755c765.jpg

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[sammyha]

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[sammyha]

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[sammyha]

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[sammyha]

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[sammyha]

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[sammyha]

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[sammyha]

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[sammyha]

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[sammyha]

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[sammyha]

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[sammyha]

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[dasboata]

I not trying to bust your balls and I'm not getting into a debate with you about this ,, but adding those tubs are only restricting your water intake your probable decreased your intake area by 80% and,,, 1 into 2 is still only one the rudder should have a flat bottom because it adds lift to the boat

[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

Chris (Dasboata), I’m curious why all of these rudders, stock and upgraded, come with a taper that comes to a sharp edge on the bottom if what your saying about the bottom of the rudder needing to be flat is true? Not doubting what you’re saying, just wondering why the manufacturers wouldn’t have that as standard. Thx

[scottyp]

By the way Sam, I was actually able to drill out the three remaining nipples on my esc quite easily. The problem on the first one is that I tried to drill to deep and the bit locked and tore the nipple right off. I drilled that one out like you suggested and am now just waiting on the parts for the fix you suggested which I have a feeling is going to work. 👍

[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

I’ve got a few of those coming so I should have options regardless

[dasboata]

Chris (Dasboata), I’m curious why all of these rudders, stock and upgraded, come with a taper that comes to a sharp edge on the bottom if what your saying about the bottom of the rudder needing to be flat is true? Not doubting what you’re saying, just wondering why the manufacturers wouldn’t have that as standard. Thx

Your going to have to ask pro boat that ????

[fweasel]

Careful with drilling out the 120A Dynamite ESC cooling nipples. Don't get to aggressive on the drill bit size, even when there appears to be plenty of meat to bore out on the tip of the fitting. The narrow circumference portion is actually quite thin walled and is very easy to crack when too much material is removed. I prefer to re-tap the heat sink and install a larger diameter fitting for better flow.

[JJROTOGEEK]

Are u still digging the negative pitch on the prop????


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[JJROTOGEEK]

https://youtu.be/p6Djit-7R14 handling isn’t great on 5s on. Neautral prop angle. I did have my batts to far back tho. I’m going to try the negative angle and mod the tube as u suggested


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[sammyha]

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[dasboata]

This looks like as clean of a setup as it gets to me.

Same result as with the enlarged cooling slots...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180913/e056233aa934959fac3dfb80dbd74ba5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180913/90cf5b28449cc73413ef8ff55490b591.jpg

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put your water pick up threw the front right sponson just drill the tubing threw on a angle that's no good,,what you have ,dragging,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, unless you want to do a prop wash pick up

[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

Worked like a charm Sam!161472



Like this...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180908/11c7d11249ebb28ca62768f5f755c765.jpg

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[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

Very good, well done! Running it soon?

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Not quite yet. I have been traveling for work so i decided to let some guys at the local hoppyshop do some of the wiring work while I'm gone. Shortening the wires between the motor and ESC and all connectors will be Castle 6.5mm bullets...including all the batteries. Should be ready when i get back in a week for me to switch out the servo, install the cooling lines, add an after-market turn fin and then, of course, the strut height/pitch adjustment which, frankly, seems to be the most complex of anything to me.

[scottyp]

Sam,

Fortunately, with all the time I had waiting for the boat, I did manage to build a nice custom carrying case for it as well as a retrieval rig which i am hoping will be large and powerful enough...161473161474161475

[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

Oh WOW! Very nice! Are you putting floatation foam around the pipe on the rescue boat?

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Oh, yeah, absolutely. Cutting the noodles as we speak!

[sammyha]

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[sammyha]

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[sammyha]

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[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

Interesting post. This is the exact situation I want to avoid because I've been close with one of my cars and realized I was spending more time tinkering and upgrading than I was actually just having fun driving it around. Of course, I'm not looking to hit 70+mph speeds but rather be able to run it around at 60+ with good control and at least a few minutes of battery life. I do salute the work and experimentation you've done however as, at least speaking for myself, you've allowed me to avoid a great deal of trial and effort and I've learned a ton from reading these posts. Much appreciated!

[boatsrnew2me]

Then I applied a thin layer of E6000...

Next time I knock one off, it will be floating in the area of the wreck...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180917/b11b5333a4110704cca66e3f83719983.jpg

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nice work .

[Norwest]

I would say the dual water is the problem, They extend to far down and what I would do is cut some off the pickup pipes off and bend forward close to 90 degrees and leave the pipes inline. The current long pipes cause drag. BTW, nice BOAT.

[sammyha]

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[srislash]

Sounds like a bit of a ‘Ah hah’ moment. We all have them. Can’t see the forest thru the trees, blah blah.
I have limited hydro experience but one thing I have had success with is pulling water off the sponson bottoms. IF you are having cooling issues. This should be less for you as the water cools now. I love fall/spring running for this reason.

Also if you are going back to stock on the rudder you can take a debuting ball(Dremal) and just teardrop the inlet of the rudder. This is usually plenty.

[sammyha]

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[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

Do you know how thick that piece of wood is? Meaning, my local hobby shop has tons of variable thickness wood sheets and it would be great to be able to just go but the exact pieces I need. Sorry, may be a few questions coming in- I'm now in the heat of setting my boat up :-)


My hydro setup on the countertop.

The wood under the sponsons is the same thickness as the measurement from the bottom of the strut to the prop shaft centerline.

Study that statement carefully...


This means the bottom of the sponsons and the prop centerline are on the same plane.

I recommend to zoom in on this photo too.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180729/9abe962f8c93af3436b69b1c0365d5aa.jpg

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[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

Thanks as always!


It's a piece of 3/16" luan under layment... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180923/f1b8455de7b83da943edc314ce8c634b.jpg

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[sammyha]

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[scottyp]

Good stuff. I'm not looking for 70, but a solid easy to manage 60-65 is perfect for me!


Scott, I should add this to the thread. The 1" measurement in the back is a fairly loose setup.

With batteries all the way forward, you can blow it off at speeds over 70mph. But that's how you get over seventy too! That and a good sbp prop.

It runs real solid up to 65-68mph tho...

If I get out again this year, I'm going to try 1-1/32" in the back.

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[Hawcer]

Oops, sorry. I bought mine from OSE. I remembered looking at one on Ebay from AU. Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

I ordered one of those from eBay. Shows from AU, actually ships from China. I have not received it yet. So you all know...

This is a great write up. Tons of info. I purchased my UL-19 solely on seeing vids from the two members I see here “competing” for the fastest speed on YouTube.

Kinda sad to see what started off good, take a dive off the deep end. instead of putting their heads together to find the ultimate setup. But competition does drive you past your comfort zone. Just don’t let it ruin your passion.

I like to fiddle around just for fun. I’m still enjoying stock 4s at the moment....but things are in the works.

[MADRCER]

I ordered one of those from eBay. Shows from AU, actually ships from China. I have not received it yet. So you all know...

This is a great write up. Tons of info. I purchased my UL-19 solely on seeing vids from the two members I see here “competing” for the fastest speed on YouTube.

Kinda sad to see what started off good, take a dive off the deep end. instead of putting their heads together to find the ultimate setup. But competition does drive you past your comfort zone. Just don’t let it ruin your passion.

I like to fiddle around just for fun. I’m still enjoying stock 4s at the moment....but things are in the works.

Hi Hawcer! I want to congratulate you on your FIRST post here on OSE as well as becoming the NEWEST member on here! Maybe you misinterpreted something in this thread on my behalf that's made you sad....So let me clarify for you....I'm not competing for NOTHING and my boats go as fast as I need them to go and I'm not obligated to help a struggling member on here if I don't want to either...But I do currently have and have had for 9 months or so the Fastest (true for true) UL-19 that is on YouTube. Does that mean I get a trophy or something? BTW l'm never out of my "comfort zone" and feel like I have a decent grasp on my setups and that I already have the "ultimate setup" in mine already.... Good luck with your boat and again and I'm flattered that my videos helped you choose the UL-19 as your boat of choice. WELCOME to OSE!

[sammyha]

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[sammyha]

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[Hawcer]

I just glad there are people out there that take the time to post vids and all their steps, thoughts, mishaps, and findings in forums for others to follow of find later.

I have many, many hobbies. So when I have an idea on something that I haven’t seen anywhere else, I try to share it somehow. Even if it only helps one person 10 years from now. if the idea sucks, I get feedback and learn from it.

The author of this thread really put in a lot of time and energy and details to help others while he was on his own learning curve. I’ve never messed with boats before, so I need all the help I can get.

After dealing with OSE the last couple days and burning up their email, hounding them with questions. I was very impressed and came here hoping that trickled down into their forums.

I can say I’m glad I came here.

[sammyha]

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[MADRCER]

I just glad there are people out there that take the time to post vids and all their steps, thoughts, mishaps, and findings in forums for others to follow of find later.

I have many, many hobbies. So when I have an idea on something that I haven’t seen anywhere else, I try to share it somehow. Even if it only helps one person 10 years from now. if the idea sucks, I get feedback and learn from it.

After dealing with OSE the last couple days and burning up their email, hounding them with questions. I was very impressed and came here hoping that trickled down into their forums.

I can say I’m glad I came here.

Awesome Hawcer! How you been man? If you ever get into a jam just hit me up on here or over on RCG (like you have in the past) and you know I'll do my best to help you out. Also, feel free to check out my YouTube channel (just search UL-19 there or if that don't work try "FASTEST UL-19 on YouTube" one of those two searches should pull something of mine up). I do my best to answer EVERY single question that I am asked there as well and if I'm down for a bit one of my AWESOME followers usually step in and answer for me. It's an AMAZING group of guys and gals over there as well as here. We're all like a good ole' pack of "Dogs" everyone watching out for one another and calling it like it is and just helping one another (well most everyone).. I'll have to admit that this "trial and error thread" could be a challenge to understand for someone just getting their feet wet in boating for sure, since it starts off in one direction and about halfway drastically shifts in another direction (then I guess it starts going back in another direction).... but anyways, hey no flashy threads for me just a few lousy unedited (true for true) videos floating around with a few proven tips of what one needs to do to help them get a boat going. The first tip I'll give you is contact dasboata on here for one of them Awesome props. Have fun with that New boat and as always good luck with it and welcome aboard!

[Hawcer]

Thanks guys.

I have a sharpened and balanced OSE Oct. x442 prop coming for a nitro hydro I’m going to convert. I’m gonna give it a try on the UL-19 in the meantime for fun. I have voltage and temp telemetry in it now so I’ll be able to compare the the readings between it and the sharpened and balanced stock prop.

[scottyp]

Thanks! I've got myself a bent turn fin now as well. Definitely in the stage of working out the kinks

[scottyp]

161970

Oct. 442 B&S

[Arcangel572]

That prop looks like it's on backwards.

[1coopgt]

Um this thread is 3 years old and the prop is on correctly just not tightened down all the way.