New 2004 Miss Budweiser T-6 Build

[Tom G]

Basic :Spec’s

1/8 Scale Hull is by RCBc All Carbon Fiber SG121-H running as 2004 Miss Budweiser T-6

ESC: Alien Power Syst. 300 Amp on 8s 29.6 VDC

Motor: NEU 1527 /1.5 /8mm on 8s & Water Jacket
Motor Mount by HRC Mfg. 1527 floor mount
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Motor Coupler by MBP 8mm to ¼
Battery’s: 2ea Nano Tech 6000 Mah in Series for 8S 29.6 VDC

All the running gear is From Acuu-Tech
Authentic Scale Strut , Turn Fin , Rudder Bracket & Tapered single pick-up Rudder

Prop's By ABC # H-2215 -19' rake -38BAR & #H-2315-17' rake-45 BAR 2 blade Cleavers, thinned, sharpened & balanced. by Me:cool:

First Day of the build removed all the release agent ( pain in the BUTT:mad:) established the boats Center line, and mounted the rudder bracket and rear wing vertical stabilizer bracket
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MORE TO FOLLOW Next mount Turn Fin ,Strut ,stuffing box & motor[B][/B

[srislash]

Nice, I have a sport hydro build coming up soon myself. Subscribed

[K.R.Joye]

Nice$$$

[Tom G]

Back to it the installed the turn fin, cut the hole and installed the strut. Roughly set the location for the Motor, battery’s and ESC to get a idea ware the C/G balance point will be .

With battery’s located in the wells for fuel tanks in a nitro boat and the ESC placed in the bow’s forward radio box. The balance point is 3/4 TO 1 inch behind the rear of the sponson, which is close to the Newton Marines drawings c/g’s location

Note : When U move the rudder to the left side of the hull the holes in the rudder pivot block are upside down.
Instead of modifying the rudder. I took a chance and ordered the rudder pivot block for a Speed Master Turn Fin Bracket (they make both right & left hand pivot block’s) which by the way are identical to the Accu-Tech pivot block’s and fit perfectly . PROBLEM SOLVED ::smile::smile:

Motor mount holes drilled an motor installed. .
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Time to layout the locate and cut the hole for the stuffing box :unsure::unsure::unsure::unsure:I always HATE this process TO EASY TO SCREW IT UP

[CraigP]

CG sounds perfect! Is this going to be 1/8 scale build?

[Tom G]

Yes 1/8 Scale

[srislash]

Have you established a finished weight yet Tom? I’m just curious for my build, I have a 2028 and a 1527 and still contemplating which to use. The Castle motor is waaaay heavier

[centralrcmystic]

Perfect exactly what I’m looking for

[Tom G]

157301 My 1/8 Nitro boat RCBC SG118-H 1994 Miss Bud T-3 hull weights 18 lbs RTR with Fuel

I'll probably get torched :doh::mad: for mentioning a nitro boat on a FE site LOL
I think the FE boat might be a little heaver cause the Battery's & ESC weight more then the engine and exhaust system

[srislash]

157301 My 1/8 Nitro boat RCBC SG118-H 1994 Miss Bud T-3 hull weights 18 lbs RTR with Fuel

I'll probably get torched :doh::mad: for mentioning a nitro boat on a FE site LOL
I think the FE boat might be a little heaver cause the Battery's & ESC weight more then the engine and exhaust system

Oh man I’m shooting for 16lbs on my Edge Hydro. Or at least that is what I think I can pull off. I should be good with a 1527 or 1530 then.

[Doug Smock]

157301 My 1/8 Nitro boat RCBC SG118-H 1994 Miss Bud T-3 hull weights 18 lbs RTR with Fuel

I'll probably get torched :doh::mad: for mentioning a nitro boat on a FE site LOL

LOL I think you'll be fine.:thumbup1:

[Tom G]

What scale Hydro are U building 1/10 1/12

good luck Hope U make 16 lbs

My bare hull is 6.5 lbs As it sits in pic with the motor & the of majority hardware is 7 lb 11 oz plus the battery's ESC 6 .7 lbs = 13.7 lbs not including the rest of the other peripherals ,cowls, wings and the rest of the electronics, paint ect:

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[Tom G]

The stuffing box hole has been cut & the tube fiber glass clothed & epoxy-ed into place
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As soon as the epoxy cures I'll grind off the excess e-pucky off and cut the tube to length

More to follow :biggrin:

[Tom G]

The stuffing box install and shaft alignment are done with mock up. I sure like the HRC Mfg motor mount made the prop shaft shaft alignment a snap.

If I hadn't screwed up the only piece of 5/16 tubing I have :mad:for the flex shaft while trying to arc it to align with the strut the drive line would've been finished .:crying:

Next try I'LL use the ole trick of packing it full of ultra fine sand and heat it slightly with a heat gun so it will no kink agn.
HOPEFULLY
If anyone has a Simpler way to bend the tubing I'm open to suggestions

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[pescador]

Steve has that covered :)
https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/bend-brass-tubing.php


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[785boats]

I find the simplest way, without heat or salt or sand etc, is to roll a couple of layers of masking tape around the 1/4" flex shaft to make it a slightly better fit into the tube. The tape only needs to be a bit longer than the bend you want to make.
Then insert it into the tube & form the bend with your thumbs & fingers, a little bit at a time while moving your pressure point backwards & forwards along the length of the curve that you want.

It works much like the bending springs we use at work to bend PVC conduits.

There are also any number of places that sell external bending springs for small tubes.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/spring-tube-bender

[Tom G]

Steve has that covered :)
https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/bend-brass-tubing.php


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Thanks for the input
I had already had annealed the tube. BUT I had a brain Fart a local guy here reminded me to leave the flex in the tube

[Tom G]

I find the simplest way, without heat or salt or sand etc, is to roll a couple of layers of masking tape around the 1/4" flex shaft to make it a slightly better fit into the tube. The tape only needs to be a bit longer than the bend you want to make.
Then insert it into the tube & form the bend with your thumbs & fingers, a little bit at a time while moving your pressure point backwards & forwards along the length of the curve that you want.

It works much like the bending springs we use at work to bend PVC conduits.

There are also any number of places that sell external bending springs for small tubes.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/spring-tube-bender

Thanks for the input
I had already had annealed the tube. BUT I had a brain Fart :unsure:a local guy here reminded me to leave the flex shaft in the tube and slide some heat shrink tube over the flex shaft to help take up the extra space in the tube .

[785boats]

Cool.
I like the heat shrink idea. Sounds easier than rolling the masking tape around the flex.
I'll give that a go next time.

[Tom G]

Cool.
I like the heat shrink idea. Sounds easier than rolling the masking tape around the flex.
I'll give that a go next time.

Plus there is no chance of the tape getting stuck in the Tube. If the heat shrink stays in the tube for some weird reason just take a heat gun and blow hot air down the tube it will shrink the heat shrink tubing and it will fall right out of the brass tube:cool:

[Tom G]

A little more forward progress for the mock up. Add some CF reinforcement to the high stress areas of the rear wing vertical stabilizers.

Fab-d up the attachment point's for the upper rear wing stabilizer rods.

A little more tweaking to get all the angles right ,install some flotation foam & then epoxy the vertical stabilizer half's together and move on too the rear wing and front canard
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[785boats]

Hi Tom.
Looking good.

Could you give a few more details on how the fin braces are attached into the fins please. The photos you have posted won't enlarge when I click on them for some reason.
Where did you get the bits & pieces for the rods & attachments? I need to make up something for my U-3 Turbinator.

Also, in relation to your CoG. Have you measured it with everything in place including the fins & wing & cowling.
I ask this because your batteries seem to be so far back behind the sponson transoms in your earlier posts.
I need to get my batteries right up into the nose pod to get the CoG within an inch of the transoms. And the motor as far forward as practical. Again, that's allowing for everything else in place along the rear of the boat.

Cheers.
Paul.

[Todd Fleury]

That boat in the photo looks really familiar.

[Tom G]

Where did you get the bits & pieces for the rods & attachments? I need to make up something for my U-3 Turbinator.

The bracket is a piece of .065 x 1/4 x 1 1/2 stainless flat stock bent 90deg.s available from Octura for air plane rudder support hardware and held in place with epoxy on the inside an 2 ea 2-56 screws & nuts and washers . Available @ Micro Fasteners
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RC Boat Co sells the rest of the the hardware bracket and rods ect http://rcboatcompany.com/AluminumParts.html

Also, in relation to your CoG. Have you measured it with everything in place including the fins & wing & cowling.
I ask this because your batteries seem to be so far back behind the sponson transoms in your earlier posts.
I need to get my batteries right up into the nose pod to get the CoG within an inch of the transoms. And the motor as far forward as practical. Again, that's allowing for everything else in place along the rear of the boat.

The CG is close to what was mention as pictured all the hardware -motor installed and cowling just sitting on the boat. And balancing on a 1/4 dia rod across the width of the boat, 1 inch behind the sponson transoms. My 300 A ESC is quit heave @ 1 lbs .

With the battery's in the nose forward radio box location it's was quit nose heavy.

Hope that answers all Ur ??

[785boats]

Thanks for the info Tom.
I can easily fashion something up like that from all the Bits'n'Pieces I have lying around. Just needed the visual to kick my old brain into gear.
The rest of the brackets I can also make.
Unfortunately the cost & the exchange rate & the postage to Australia, makes them far too expensive to buy. The Egg pod & ram wings cost me a small fortune & the rear wing & fins were out of the question. That's why I'm making my own.
I'll just have to deal with the weight penalty


I guess the wooden boats are a lot heavier aft of the sponsons than a glass boat. Plus the fact that I am making the fins & wing from ply, makes them a lot heavier too.

I'll keep playing around with the weight distribution. A lifting prop & some negative angle on the strut will help of course.

Thanks again for your help.

Cheers.
Paul.

[Tom G]

Fab of the rear wing vertical stabilizer’s and setting of there camber angles done.

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Time to move on to assembling the rear wing and designing a method so adjusting its caster so is not a total pain in the butt.

I learned a lot on the Nitro boat and the Definitely not going to do the same design:o on this FE Hull

[Tom G]

The CF material I ordered for the rear wing end plates will not be here till Tues. (5 days to travel 500 miles come on USPS Priority Mail :doh: a Chihuahua could make the trip faster )

Since the replacement stuffing box tubing showed up Friday back to that project. So as to keep the build progressing forward. Racing season is stately approaching.

Installing some heat shrink tubing on the flex shaft to take up the gap between the flex shaft and the tubing, worked like a charm the S bent needed coming out of the thru hull tube and into the strut went off with no issues NO DENTS ,NO DINGS & NO KINKS :w00t:and the flex shaft an heat shrink tubing all slide out of the brass tube LIKE BUTTER.

ITS HELL TO GET OLD AND FORGET ALL THE LITTLE TRICKS U USED 20 years ago LMAO :blush::doh:

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[Tom G]

Front Ram wings ,Rear wing and Canard mock-up completed.

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Made a design change from the nitro boats installation
Instead or a just a¼ inch elongated slot in the trim brackets.

I’ve added 3 brass inserts in the sponson & vertical stabilizer side plates in addition to the 1/4 elongated slot in the trim brackets to increase the available amount of canard and rear wing adjustment. ( unused holes will be filled with 4-40 stainless set screws when not in use)

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Now on to mocking up the Cowl , exhaust shroud ,and turbine tray

[Beaux]

Looking good.

[Tom G]

Installed the 2 under deck cooling water and discharge lines.
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Mocking up and fitted the Cowl & Cowl latches, exhaust shroud, and turbine tray close to being done. I just need to clean up and round off of some corners.
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Paint the Driver and Cockpit then I can install the cockpit floor pan and windshield in the cowling.

Then it’s on to the much :angry:hated body & fender work and paint.

[Tom G]

All the decals arrived from Mike @ Thunder-boat Graphics nice wrk as usual :biggrin:TNX MIKE

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[pescador]

Looking great, are you going to seal around the strut or compartment it off?


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[Tom G]

Its in a water tight compartment with a transom drain. I do put some silicon around it to help the seal . I like to be able to adjust the strut to tweak the boats ride attitude for different prop's Ect.

[pescador]

Awesome, I moved the rudder in my Joe’s to its own box in the back to get rid of the long pushrod. See how it works when the water softens.


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[Tom G]

Bore-dumb set in while waiting for some e-pucky to cure. So i wired up the battery's ESC , RX and motor just to make sure everything was wired correctly.

Plugged them all in and no smoke came out ( that's always a good thing) so it looks like that's GTG.

Made a couple of test runs and the motor ran 32,600 + RPM's on 8's @ a little over 30VDC no load And 30,263 RPM @ around 26.6 VDC no load ;)

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Back to the Much HATED body & fender WRK:tongue_smilie::tape:

[Tom G]

Spent a little time away from the body and fender work to align the Strut and Turn fin to the hull center line.


On the original mock-up I spent quit a bit of time setting up the strut holes so only needed some light tweaking needed there
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Since the back of the Sponson is not very flat. I had to set-up the bracket in my milling machine taper from the outside to the inboard side about .020 to bring the turn fin in line. Also bedded the bracket mounting the surface with some Epoxy so the bracket would sit flat on the Sponson surface
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I found this to be a reasonably important step to insure the boat track's right on the straight a ways especially the turn fin.

So I have procrastinated enough today back to slinging plastic (body filler)

All the painting supplies have been ordered the closest color match to the original DuPont Imron #29198 that would cost over $200. (To dam much) to paint the hull plus that stuff is a highly toxic carcinogen.

So after much research found a Urethane bright red for a 1971 Plymouth Barracuda from Touch up Direct at a much more reasonable cost. Hopefully all the body & fender wrk will be finished when the paint arrives next week

[Tom G]

Most of the body and fender works is finished started painting some of the parts with primer. This is going to take some time. I do not have access to a spray booth and my garage is not heated and naturally the WX in Wa.state is lets say CRAP this time of yr so can only make progress when the temp is above 60 deg. Do not think that SHE WHO MUST BE OBEYED would be happy with me stinking up the house painting a boat.:mad:

While that's kind of boring I broke out the Air Brush and painted the cockpit interiors for both the FE & Nitro boats

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[TomG]

Fab of the cowling and drivers cockpit done

I will have to make 1 major change. I have decided to use a different ESC because the one previously listed in the Spec. was not waterproof so swapped-it out to a 200amp ZTW Seal which half the weight of the the other one and totally thru off the boats CG.

I will have too move the battery's forward to what was originally for the electronic''s box area. All my electronics's ESC RX and Servo are water proof so there locations are not critical.:glare:

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[785boats]

Looking good Tom. It's coming together nicely.
I have the same problem with painting here too. Both with the weather & with 'Her Indoors'. Doesn't like the smell of paint throughout the house for some reason.

[TomG]

So, after a motorcycle accident (rear ended by a texting drunk driver) finally able to get back to this build.

Progress after getting back on my feet. Hull and all the other assorted parts primed. Built a boat stand and made an aluminum exhaust tube from .020 6061 T6 sheet.

And now MORE BODY AND FENDER WORK :doh: all those little seam cracks, pin holes, and other imperfection’s that could not be seen in the fiberglass till some paint went ons.

I HATE MIND NUMBING B&F WORK :mad::mad:
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More to Follow:smile:

[Tetefroid]

:popcorn2:

[TomG]

During the ongoing construction of my Miss Bud FE boat I was looking at different type's of chrome coatings for the turbine exhaust tube. Tried several ( 10 in all) of the rattle can spray paints but non of the brands produced and finish that was satisfactory. (not much better the silver spray paint)

On a DIY Custom car show they had a product review of HYDRO CHROMING that can be applied to ANY base material plastic ,fiberglass, ECT. The results looked just like the Electroplating process chrome.

https://youtu.be/c9-wFTUhpT4

Long story short sent the aforementioned exhaust tube to a guy in Cali. the results were awesome but a little $$. That depends greatly!!! on the amount of body and fender work U do prior to shipping the part just like real Chrome preparation is every thing .

I'm quit pleased with the end result the finish is very tough and Nitro fuel safe. Shop around the the cost varies greatly. My cost was only $60.00 cause of all the time I spent on the B&F work.

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[Beaux]

Man , that came out nice!!!

[centralrcmystic]

Soo how are you going to attach the cowling to the hull?
1.Tape
2.Some type of connector
3.Magnets