Newcomer with a question

[Old School]

Firstly, I am new to this site and reside in Australia. My adult son has rekindled my interest in boating and has convinced me that fast electrics are the way to go. He has a Zonda which has been clocked with GPS at the magic 160 kph, however, my direction is not to achieve a speed anywhere near this. I would be happy with around 60 kph.

Now my question. A friend recently gave me an old 70 cm shallow vee mono hull that had been set up with a brushed 540 motor, although this has been lost years ago. The drive ran through a reduction gearbox with a ratio of 0.734. The design is not surface drive and has the conventional drive through a 3 mm shaft with a basic 37 mm plastic propellor. As the shaft is firmly bonded to the shell I am reluctant to remove and replace with a 4 mm shaft. Thus the 3 mm shaft plus the reduction drive will be limiting factors.

The hull design is quite sleek so I do not think the hull design will be a problem. I have started to reinforce the shell by filleting the inside join with epoxy.

Now to the drive. Personally, I would prefer a 35 amp 540 size Leopard brushless inrunner to enable easy install to the existing mounting, however, my speed enthused son thinks that a 65 amp Leopard would be better. The ESC would be a 120 amp model, with both the motor and ESC water cooled. Turn fins and trim tabs will be fitted. A 35 mm two-blade CNC propellor is planned.

Any thoughts please, Tim

[iop65]

Picture?
ABS hull?
35amp inrunner,65amp inrunner.....?.

[Old School]

Many thanks. The hull and deck are ABS with a relatively 'flimsy' cabin although this has been strengthened. Basically, my question is would the 65 amp Leopard 36XX size be too much for this 70 cm hull considering the 3 mm drive shaft and reduction gearbox? The conservative part of me is partial to the 35 amp motor although my son wants the boat to run relatively quickly.

I realise that I am starting with an older design but the elderly part of me wants to restomod this boat.

[Old School]

These are my possible choices -

Leopard Hobby 3650 30 amp 3200kv 2 pole
3650 35 amp 3570kv 2 pole
3650 65 amp 2930kv 4 pole
3650 72 amp 3930kv 2 pole

[rol243]

with a reduction gearbox arrangement you do need a relatively high reving motor depending on the gear ratio it has. the hull in pic doesn,t look to bad but it would be nice if you could remove the drive line and reduction drive and fit a surface drive assembly which would be direct drive and the prop would be positioned at the lower rear of transom plus the rudder behind as well. doing this mod would make for a much better and more reliable boat and its not a big job to do this conversion. if your in Australia have a look at some motors and hardware from [ r/c boat bitz . com. au ] they have some nice T.P. motors . let us know what you think about modding this hull . are the Leopard motors your looking at coming from Ebay Aust ?

[Old School]

Modifying to a surface drive would be possible and achieve a higher speed, however, due the fact the drive is permanently bonded in I am reluctant to pursue this route although my son has expressed his eagerness to get me to do it. I am getting on in years and do not have the lightning fast reflex reactions a faster boat would entail. The transom is also angled so either bevelled spacers or a complete revamp of the transom is required to mount a stinger and the rudder.

The reduction gears would give a 25% rpm decrease at the prop. I was initially concerned with a high speed motor driving a reduction gear but then realised that all RC cars utilise reduction gears.

Due my son's previous experience in fast electric boats I am aware of RC Boat Bitz and am actually awaiting some water cooling items from them. The motors are from a Hong Kong source on eBay.

[Peter A]

What I am hearing hear is that you just want a boat to play with, that will be reasonably fast and reliable. I am guessing that you will run on 2S, so the 3200kv leopard motor will be enough to make that boat perform better than the original 540 did. It should also give some reasonable run times. There is no need to overdo things on this hull. The next best upgrade would be a metal prop, around the same size and no more than 1.4 pitch. You may need a new shaft to suit the prop, but I'm sure that will not be too much of a problem. Keep it simple and have fun.

[Drkrieger]

You are gonna have a lot of downward thrust with the drive set up. Will Cause a lot of unneeded load on the motor batteries and ESC

[Old School]

Many thanks for your responses. Yes, I am just after a boat that will get up on plane and sound like it is going reasonably quickly. If I get around 60 kph then I will be happy. I have sourced a CNC 35 mm 2-blade propellor to suit the 3 mm shaft (dog clutch drive).

The conventional drive is of cause going to cause issues as it will induce a nose down attitude which will limit performance, but then I am not after ultimate performance as the 3 mm drive shaft and the reduction drive will also greatly impact. At one time all boats had a similar drive until surface drives were developed. If the performance is far less than anticipated then I can resort to the surface drive option with the assistance of my Dremel to remove the offending conventional drive. As stated previously, due the sloping transom, a lot of work will be needed to manufacture a suitable surface to mount the stinger and rudder mount.

[Old School]

After more consideration I have come to the conclusion that a surface drive is the only way to get this hull performing. Perhaps a few suggestions as regards a suitable motor given that the boat is 70 cm (28 inch) in length and the shaft will be around 320 mm long. I am prepared to cut out the old drive shaft but will call a stop in removing the motor mount.

I assume the shaft would exit the transom at the base of the vee shape. The slope of the transom is evident. It is this that I feel will make fitting the hardware difficult.

[rol243]

for the shaft exiting the transon base i would go for a Stinger type which is fully adjustable up and down so all you need to do to mount this is drill 4 holes in the transon plus 1 hole for the shaft log. for the rudder which you would preferably mount on the right [ starboard side ] or buy a long mount rudder that will go behind the stinger / prop, you can modify the rudder bracket so the rudder will vertical 90 degrees to the hulls bottom keel. i am sure when you do this mod the hull will perform alot better than its original design. i am not sure on motor / esc and battery size but no doubt someone on this forum with more knowledge will let you know. nice looking hull.

[rol243]

http://www.rcboatbitz.com/images/IMG-8831.jpg this is something you want just need to drill and re set the rudder so its vertical on transom as mentioned.

[Old School]

Many thanks. I came to the conclusion that the current drive had too many limitations. The hull is from twenty plus years ago and the owner stated that it did get up on plane although its performance was most likely very mediocre.

[rol243]

nothing wrong with a 20 plus old hull, some of the best mono hulls came out in the 80,s.

[CraigP]

Some of that older ABS is suspect, especially after being in the sun (UV resistant). Just have to watch for embrittlement.

[Old School]

Many thanks. I believe this hull was stored in a dark environment so hopefully no damage.

[RandyatBBY]

If the hull is painted it will protect form UV. If it is the hard plastic (injected) and not formed it is a lot stronger. I sugest that a thin layer of FG or CF is layed on the inside to reinforce the plastic. Make sure you know exactly what material you are dealing with when choosing adhesive.

[rol243]

Old School , i think it would be good for both yourself and your son if you did take on this hull mod as your never to old to play with boats and theres alot of water around you when boating . you must have a hobby / interest.

[MadProps]

I have a similar 80's hull, it too is ABS plastic and I didnt feel it was capable of handling the power and stress I intended so I reinforced the hull ...
I laid in some fiberglass cloth and painted it in place with plumbers abs glue 1 good soak coat....this when dried adhered to the hull well and the glass cloth was still very porous, I then epoxied a sheet of 1/8 ply to the transom .. I then painted in a very thick coat of epoxy over all the cloth inside the hull, now the hull is considerably much stronger than previously and handles the abuse I put it thru....

it was worth the effort

[Old School]

Many thanks to all.

[Old School]

I took the plunge (point of no return) this morning and ground out the stock 3 mm drive shaft stuffing tube where it enters the hull interior and where it exits the skeg). One thing that I am reluctant to do is remove the drive "skeg" on the boat underside (seen in photo in third posting above). How will the skeg impact on the surface drive, please? A little voice inside me thinks it may improve directional stability but have an adverse effect in turns. That said, surface drives do not have this "fin" on the undersurface.

[CraigP]

Can you cut that whole thing out, FG patch and fill, and go with a transom mounted stinger? That really looks like a high drag driveline to me... It's a mono, and they're supposed to ride on the very back. This hull can't do that with the strut the way it is... am I missing something here?

[Old School]

I am now going with a transom mounted stinger, having this morning removed all trace of the stuffing tube on the inside of the hull, but am reluctant to remove the old driveline skeg unless absolutely necessary. I could remove the "skeg" but am concerned impacting on the integrity of the hull.

[CraigP]

If the hole is bigger than a 1/4" across, you can shape a piece of basswood and create a fill, then FG that in. FG on outside and inside, it will be plenty strong. I would make the wood piece fit from the inside with a overhang so you can sand flush with the outside. Once all done the new stuffing tube should just fit over the top of it. You can do this!

[Old School]

Many thanks. I know that I can do it but I take of bit of convincing before doing so.

[CraigP]

You can't do anything that bad that some FG and Bondo can't fix. Just try to make the cutout as small as you can. I would use a fill piece, because the FG needs something to support it. Depending on your motor location, this could be 1/2 of a stuffing box support! That helps to hold down flex vibration a lot...

[RandyatBBY]

I would cut it and put masking tape on the surface. Then fiberglass the inside after the FG has set then sand and bondo the low areas. You are right the stuffing tube skeg will cause troubles in the turns. get rid of it.

[Old School]

Many thanks. I bit the bullet this morning and removed all traces of the stuffing tube skeg. Now awaiting some resin and fibreglass to carry out the repair. While I am at it I will reinforce the interior of the transom as it will now be supporting both the stinger drive and the rudder mount.

[Old School]

This is the 20 plus year old moulded ABS hull that I am in the process of bringing up to today's standards. Perhaps the maker may jog someone's memory.

[Bp9145]

This is the 20 plus year old moulded ABS hull that I am in the process of bringing up to today's standards. Perhaps the maker may jog someone's memory.

that's nice looking hull. . .I actually like it. Definitely keep us posted on your progress

[Beaux]

Cool looking boat. There is a lot of good info on here so don't mind asking.

[Old School]

While I am awaiting the slow boat from China with my carbon fibre cloth, I have regularly revisited this project making little changes to the interior each time. My first thoughts were to simply modify the hull but still retain the original look of the interior with its plastic mount brackets. Common sense eventually dictated that the entire interior had to be scrapped and start with a clean sheet, regarding placement of motor mounts, servo, batteries and ESC. With everything cleared out I can now look at this project in a positive way.

My first question is in regards to motor placement. I have secured a 36 series longitudinal carbon fibre motor mount and need to determine its placement as it will be bonded to the shell after the shell interior has been strengthened with carbon fibre cloth. As the motor is relatively heavy should I position the motor longitudinal centreline over the C of G and then allow the batteries (one either side of the motor) to balance out the moment weight of the rest of the hardware (stinger and rudder aft and ESC forward of the motor on the centreline)?

I am taking the theoretical C of G as approximately 30% of the 'wetted' waterline measured from the stern.

[rol243]

its wise to place all gear in the hull and balance c.o.g. from there before the motor / mount is fitted , its not good to place batteries port and starboard in a mono hull as the V of the hull will amplify a bad balance . keep the batteries in front of motor when setting c.o.g. balance.

[Old School]

Many thanks

[Old School]

Upon receipt of my HK Osprey, I have removed the 3/16" stinger and now modified it to fit the 60 degree sloped transom on this hull. The sloping transom problem has now been overcome as both the rudder mount and the stinger are now modified to fit. Now awaiting carbon fibre cloth to arrive.

The Osprey had a two-piece flexshaft so this will not be used on this hull. Hopefully, I will be able to salvage the stuffing tube, teflon liner, dog drive and 40 mm propellor from the Osprey to use on this hull.

Edit: I have removed the stock stuffing tube from the HK Osprey and will fit to this smaller mono. I noted that the stuffing tube is two tubing sizes too small for the stinger strut tube, so have cut tubing to allow the stuffing tube a neat fit inside the strut tube. I will allow approximately 1/4" insertion and seal on final install. I will also fit a Speedmaster rotating bushing to the stinger with a one-piece flexshaft.

[Old School]

The slow boat from China arrived this afternoon with my carbon fibre cloth. I quickly set to work and mixed a small quantity of West System G-flex (designed for adhering to ABS plastic after first keying the surface with coarse sandpaper) with some chopped carbon fibre strands and filled the void in the hull as a result of me removing the old skeg.

Once cured I need to then complete the task of reinforcing the hull. I need to purchase some acetone, white vinegar and disposable brushes. I have never worked in carbon fibre but about fifty years ago I did do a little fibreglassing as part of my apprenticeship. Fingers crossed!!!!!!!!

[Old School]

This is my "kit" of carbon fibre cloth. When I lay the cloth the thin tape side will be unseen.

Edit: carbon fibre now added. I used a West System epoxy formulated for use with ABS plastic (G-flex). The use of white vinegar as a cleaning solvent has been a godsend, saving me a fortune in acetone. For a week or so I have been cutting the bottoms from empty plastic milk bottles to use as mixing containers for the resin. These were perfect. I am happy with the result, but it could have been better executed if I had a little more experience. I applaud those who carry out perfect results on their hulls.

[Old School]

I have hit a stumbling block installing my stinger. The transom is angled at 60 degrees and coupled with a 'vee' hull and the addition of carbon fibre to the interior, I have found that when the holes were drilled for the lower mount holes on the stinger there is no room to fit a nut and washer. The mount bolts enter the hull right where the transom intersects with the floor.

I have refilled the lower holes in the transom with an epoxy resin and feel that my only alternative is to use self tapping screws on the two lower mounts holes. This is not ideal but what alternative do I have?

[NativePaul]

Drill and tap a backing plate?

[Old School]

Drill and tap a backing plate?

Paul,
I wish that I could however, the threaded end of the mount bolt enters the inner face of the transom right where the lower edge of the sloped transom intersects with the floor of the hull.

[rol243]

can you fit Thread Inserts into the existing bottom holes then all you have to do is screw on the bolts.

[Old School]

Unfortunately not. I tried last night to enlargen the recess on the inner side of the transom to get a nut in there but to no avail. I have extended the stuffing tube through the transom about 1/4" - 3/8" so this will support the lower edge of the stinger tube, while still allowing some trim angle if needed. I feel the self tapping screws should be sufficient as in reality I have little choice.

Similarly with the trim tabs. These will need to be attached with self tapping screws for the same reason as there is no way a nut can be fitted to a machine screw mount. Also, I will have to revert to my initial idea of using the simple Traxxas Spartan stock release turnfins as mounting the 'expensive' fins I later purchased will have the same problem. There is just no room at the transom/hull interface to fit retaining nuts - the 60 degree sloped transom has caused me multiple issues.

[CraigP]

Can you get pics with a flashlight in there to light it up? Maybe someone can see an out of the box solution...

[Peter A]

How about this. Either use some epoxy metal repair, or build up the area with epoxy glue and when cured, drill and tap the holes you need.

[rol243]

you do know what a Threaded Insert is don,t you ? these will fix your issue.

[Old School]

Many thanks, gentlemen

[Old School]

A couple of technical questions please. The photographs show the trouble the sloped transom has given me. I need to source a longer 3 mm securing bolt for the trim angle adjustment. I have simply reversed the original stubshaft to represent the position of the prop as I do not have a replacement flexshaft as yet. The stinger is simply placed in position and is not secured at all.

My research indicates that a stinger should be 5% - 7% of hull length. I have taken this stinger from my recently arrived HK Osprey (a much larger hull than this one) and at roughly 10 cm from the transom to the far edge of the prop the percentage of hull length is almost 15%.

With my rudder temporarily in position the far edge of the prop from the transom aligns with the trailing edge of the rudder. I unfortunately had to get an "oversized" rudder as these were the only ones that the mount to the transom could be separated from the rudder support arm (all courtesy of the sloping transom) as the support arm needed to be modified to compensate for the transom angle.

Should I reduce the length of the stinger? Will an overly long stinger effect performance? I have read that the prop should be mid span on the rudder blade. Is it possible to cut the stinger tube shorter? How does one remove the lead/teflon bushings? I intend fitting a Speedmaster rotating bush so the bushings need to come out anyway.

[rol243]

you can still have the stinger / prop coming out past the rudder blade and still have good turning control. the Lead Teflon bushings are ok as long as you keep the shaft stub greased up after each run. to fit the speedmaster bushing you need to have an outer sleeve for the speedmaster bushing to spin in, this is normally done by using a suitable sized brass stuffing tube that goes into the stinger , stinger adjustment will be limited with this speedmaster bushing set up as opposed to using the lead teflon bushings. if you want better quality lead bushings go to a bearing supply shop as they sell them for around 60 cents a piece., when they wear out just tap them out and tap in the new ones.

[Old School]

Many thanks. I sourced the 1/4" brass tubing for when I eventually get the Speedmaster bushing.

[CraigP]

I would have made a box that squares that up and glassed it to the 60 degree transom. It could be an ingress or an external placement. When I'm hit with stuff like that, I start cutting and glassing!

[CraigP]

you do know what a Threaded Insert is don,t you ? these will fix your issue.

I think you're right... Grind off one side of the insert's nail head. If there's room to drill a clearance hole for the bolt, there's room for the threaded insert. Personally, I would have squared it up with a glassed on structure. You gotta be willing to do some cutting and glassing in this sport, especially when in repair mode!

[srislash]

You can fit the brass tube into the stinger to facilitate the speed master Bushing. It may take a couple sizes or you may have to lightly drill the stinger to fit the brass. As I guarantee that stinger is all metric. The brass tube does not necessarily need to run right thru as a stuffing tube as this would mix any stinger adjustments. Just Loctite the brass tube inside the stinger.

[Old School]

Many thanks gentlemen. My first thoughts were to either remove the transom and refit sitting upright or to build a pod to enable the stinger and rudder to mount vertically. I then decided too much work was involved. Initially this was to be a quick and dirty brushless conversion. Alas, it has become a monster, so perhaps I should have invested a little energy squaring up the transom. Too late now!!!!!!!

Many thanks on the info on the stinger conversion.

[Old School]

Still a long way to go, however, external components now temporarily fitted. The interior is strengthened with two layers of carbon fibre. I need to epoxy (JB_Weld?) the motor mount frames, epoxy the ESC mounting, mount the servo and receiver then balance the C of G once the batteries are sourced. Will need to fit flotation and paint the hull.

Pity the rudder support arm is oversized but unfortunately smaller rudder assemblies do not have removable transom mounts. As stated earlier, I needed a removable mount so that the rudder support arm could be modified to accommodate the 60 degree transom.

[rol243]

Looks good, you have done a fine modification job on this hull and no doubt it will go well once it hits the water.

[srislash]

Nothing wrong with that. I like the look of the hull. So what type of batteries are you looking for? One can use wood blocks to make provision for placement of the real thing. Then use fishing weights on the wood to replicate battery weight for CG

[Old School]

Thanks gents. This project has been a steep learning curve. My dilemma now is C of G. At present a rough mapping out at a static 30% from the stern. Alas, even with the motor as far to the rear as I would want (motor is actually midspan on the C of G), I need to have the batteries basically aft of the motor. On port side it is not a problem, however, the servo and receiver occupy the starboard part of the stern. The right hand battery will need to be closer to the C of G which effectively rules out its total weight as a counterbalance.

I would have liked the battery/batteries to be on the centreline, however this is not possible. I hate to suggest it but is "dead" weight acceptable. I realise that it would be parasitic adding unnecessary overall weight, however, if I cannot balance the boat with batteries what alternative do I have please?

The motor chosen (3660 size 2070KV Brushless Inrunner) will be taken from a Hobbyking Libero that I am expecting any day now and will be run on 4s2p. Battery choice will be critical due limited available room either side of the motor mounting. Most likely will be in the region of two off 4000mah 4s 45C lipo batteries. I need to run through a list of batteries to find a suitable battery with the right dimensions and available locally otherwise expensive shipping penalties are incurred. Airmail shipping companies do not like lipo batteries.

Edit: with approximately 100 gms lead at the stern I can statically balance, minus batteries, at 33% "wetted" hull length. This would give me a better tolerance to position the batteries if the boat proves to be difficult to get on plane or nose down attitude. The single battery used initially weighs in at around 600 gms. This was a 4500 mah 4s 45C lipo. Thus with the parasitic lead left in the stern, two batteries around 300 gms - 350 gms each may be able to balance out the hull.

[rol243]

it would be better if you could get the battery packs in the center part of hull line as with the packs on each side of center the hull will want to rock left / right as the deep -v hull will allow this, a shallow - v hull can handle this battery position better. isn,t there any room for the batteries behind the motor ? if not can you make some room ?

[Old School]

The aft face of the motor is 13 cm forward of the transom. The area aft of the motor is occupied by the locking collet (approximately 3 cm in length and the stuffing tube. There is simply no centreline location for the battery/batteries aft of the motor. The position/angle of the stuffing tube dictates the motor location so this cannot be altered so to keep flexshaft alignment. The servo needs to be located on the starboard side close to the stern so this also would intrude on battery considerations. I do see numerous hulls with side mounted battery packs. No doubt this impacts on lateral stability but given my space limitations it is something I need to live with.

[rol243]

could you place the batteries cross ways [ east / west ] over the flex shaft log.?

[Bp9145]

just a side note. .It seems you have aligned the turn fin with the side edge of the transom. I usually make sure I install my turn fins 90° from the bottom of the hull. . .making a L shape with the turn fin blade and the bottom line of the hull. It will make a big difference in performance.

[Old School]

Thankyou. Actually, it does not show in the photographs but there is a bend in the turnfins so that they do sit at 90 degrees to the hull.

[rol243]

well they are some big fins hanging off the transom there. drag .

[Old School]

well they are some big fins hanging off the transom there. drag .

Thankyou for your comment. In fact the turnfins are actually smaller in dimensional area than the commonly fitted CNC aluminium fins fitted to most RTR hulls. Also, unlike most RTR boats, the fins do not extend below the keel, so should the boat be up on plane will have negligible impact on drag and certainly far less than most manufacturer supplied RTR hulls.

[rol243]

majority of time when the mono is up on the plane the turn fins are not in the water , only in the turns is when they make full contact with the water and if there too long there is more surface area in the water and speed will be lost quickly. normal practise is to have the larger turn fin on the starboard side and a shorter fin if any on the port side. i have a 53 inch Deltaforce mono that doesn,t even need turn fins in race set up. so a small hull like yours only needs very small fins., see how she runs in the water as you can always cut the fins shorter if needed.

[Old School]

Many thanks. Hopefully its first shakedown run will not hold too many surprises.

[Bp9145]

Many thanks. Hopefully its first shakedown run will not hold too many surprises.

make sure you post a video to share with us. . .much luck to you, have fun and enjoy that nice looking boat of yours.

[Old School]

Many thanks.

[Old School]

I revisited this project after a long hiatus. I really could not see the original degraded Lexan cab withstanding a high speed impact so after a lot of thought went with a simple runabout type superstructure. A combination of carbon fibre sheet and strip achieved the simple shape I wanted. The original Lexan cab would have been a nightmare to tape up before a run.

I will detail the infill deck sheet with a recessed cockpit complete with a couple of driver figures. The hull is reinforced internally with a carbon fibre inlay plus two-part expanding foam in the bow to help reinforce the ABS skin. West System G-flex 650 was used throughout and while expensive has achieved an incredibly torsionally strong body.

First image shows the original Lexan cab that I painted several months ago. I intend an SSS 3682 2200kv on 4s, running a Turnigy Marine 120A ESC. Unsure of prop size but I do have a preference for three-bladed props. The stinger has been converted to a Speedmaster rotating bushing insert (very simple operation with just an electric drill).

[Old School]

A temporary deck panel to sort out final shape and clearances. I will recess the cockpit area as low as possible but will still need to reduce the height of both driver figures. The rear deck will have a raised engine access panel.

[srislash]

Hey that is looking pretty slick, nice work

[Old School]

Thankyou, it was looking a little dated with that older style raised Lexan canopy. I actually spent several hours repairing the canopy as it had deteriorated badly and then too much time painting it. After a few months sitting idle (due other builds) I decided the raised canopy would not stand the impact from the speed this revised hull will be capable of.

I am just awaiting some 1 mm carbon fibre sheet to curve to make the deck infill, plus awaiting the Leopard 3674 (2200kv 4s) that will power it as I may need to modify the deck to accommodate the motor clearance. I went with a less powerful motor as I wanted to use a Turnigy 120 amp ESC onhand. I would have preferred a TP motor however, due power requirements, I thought that I may have had to use a Turnigy 180 amp ESC that I have earmarked for another project.

[Old School]

The carbon fibre deck now finished, awaiting an additional driver figure plus motor to complete the boat. It will be a simple paint scheme. It will be good to finally get this project finished.

[hughb]

Yep that looks heaps better. Really well done!

[Old School]

Many thanks. Hope you are enjoying "sunny" Queensland.

[Old School]

By sheer coincidence almost three years to the day and this toy boat is finally completed. Leopard 3674 2075kv running 4s with 150 amp Turnigy Marine ESC. Prop is merely what I had. The worst part of this build was converting a very old, but sound, ABS toy hull with a submerged drive, fitting a carbon fibre inlay, building a new superstructure and adjusting the rudder and stinger to cope with an approximate 60 degree sloping transom.

[srislash]

Congratulations, mission complete

[Old School]

Many thanks

[1coopgt]

Great looking boat

[Fluid]

Yes, that turned out great! Now we need to see video.

I hope you get the ESC issue sorted, by this time you may have to bite the bullet and order a new, non-Turnigy model like Steven’s Raider 150.



.

[Old School]

Many thanks. Yes, I am thinking that a Raider may be on the cards, although I just tested it now and it actually worked without having to jog its memory (it has been almost 24 hours since last tested). Simple enough to set the throttle range but a little annoying. I have purchased a 1/10 scale representation of the upper half of a supercharged V8 motor so that will be added to the hatch to finish this boat off (finally).