zelos 36 problem

[REDLINE1]

Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this. Looks like my stuffing was installed incorrectly. The curve in the brass tube is supposed to curve up from the strut to the motor. Mine is twisted slightly and curves inward toward the rudder. I get some vibration on that side and more resistance as the cable or wire As it's fighting the strut which is straight. I've had the boat for almost a year and never noticed it

[CraigP]

Well, I would get that stuffing tube out and put a new one in. Big job, but it needs to be right!

[dasboata]

What I did is slowly scraped away at the bondo holding it in , with a solder iron , and a heated curved chisel.. I made ,,I then lined it up & re bonded it the whole stinger stuffing box is a poor design without having some flex back there for adjustments


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CraigP]

Yeah, isn't that where the up/down pivot point is? Your right dashbota, something is off there... May have to check the other side. My deep V has an O-ring at the back of the stinger tube to the back of the transom. It's flex at that point in my boat.

[REDLINE1]

I was thinking cut out as much of the brass tube on the inside as I can then cut the brass tube flush with the pad where the strut mounts. Then get a drill the same size (or slightly larger) than the OD of the brass tube and try and drill the tube out where it passes through the transom. The tube is so thin I'm worried the drill will grab the brass and tear everything up. Don't know how if I could get a replacement tube from proboat or if I'd have to make a new one

[CraigP]

It's just standard brass tubing, I wouldn't be shy about that... but what we are saying is the pic looks like you have straight prop shaft where that should be a flex point, unless I'm missing something.

[dasboata]

I was thinking cut out as much of the brass tube on the inside as I can then cut the brass tube flush with the pad where the strut mounts. Then get a drill the same size (or slightly larger) than the OD of the brass tube and try and drill the tube out where it passes through the transom. The tube is so thin I'm worried the drill will grab the brass and tear everything up. Don't know how if I could get a replacement tube from proboat or if I'd have to make a new one

I had changed the stuffing boxes to 1/4" no liner (thanks Doug ) the Teflon is a bit heavy(thick) and it does do develop some heat !

[dasboata]

It's just standard brass tubing, I wouldn't be shy about that... but what we are saying is the pic looks like you have straight prop shaft where that should be a flex point, unless I'm missing something.

he has the stinger drive off to show us its not straight

[CraigP]

It's different than my setup. Not much help here, sorry! Pics of the tube inside the boat and a pic of your stinger could help on the visual.

[REDLINE1]

he has the stinger drive off to show us its not straight
Yes stinger off cable pushed in further to show that it is crooked

[REDLINE1]

I had changed the stuffing boxes to 1/4" no liner (thanks Doug ) the Teflon is a bit heavy(thick) and it does do develop some heat !

Been running wire drives so I think the larger stock stuffing tube might be better because the wire will have a more gradual bend up to the motor?

[REDLINE1]

Thanks for the replys guys

[Rafael_Lopez]

If you notice, the stuffing tube does not go all the way in to the strut and the solid shaft site further out of the tube. There is some play in the strut that allows you to rotate the strut either towards the rudder or away from it. Its no different than adding positive or negative angle to the strut. If your cable is not showing signs of friction at that spot, don't worry bout it; it wont negatively affect anything. I wish I could say that all the boats are perfect but they are mass produced and things happen, but I would not go through the trouble of breaking the stuffing tube loose to spin it a couple degrees, especially if it is only causing aesthetic issues on a part that you can only see when the strut is removed.

[REDLINE1]

If you notice, the stuffing tube does not go all the way in to the strut and the solid shaft site further out of the tube. There is some play in the strut that allows you to rotate the strut either towards the rudder or away from it. Its no different than adding positive or negative angle to the strut. If your cable is not showing signs of friction at that spot, don't worry bout it; it wont negatively affect anything. I wish I could say that all the boats are perfect but they are mass produced and things happen, but I would not go through the trouble of breaking the stuffing tube loose to spin it a couple degrees, especially if it is only causing aesthetic issues on a part that you can only see when the strut is removed.

I pushed the cable shaft further in to show the angle. the issue I'm having is that side vibrates when running and is not as smooth as the other side there's some friction created by the misalignment

[Rafael_Lopez]

IMO, that would cause no any more vibration than adjusting the strut positive or negative would; you're putting a bend on the cable either way. Vibration will come because the nut retaining the ball joint on the strut is loose or your props aren't balanced. I'd be really surprised if that is causing the vibration, but anything is possible.

[REDLINE1]

IMO, that would cause no any more vibration than adjusting the strut positive or negative would; you're putting a bend on the cable either way. Vibration will come because the nut retaining the ball joint on the strut is loose or your props aren't balanced. I'd be really surprised if that is causing the vibration, but anything is possible.

Thanks for the advice. the other side spins smooth as silk. ball joint is tight and props are Dasboata balanced and prepped. That side has noticeable more friction compared to the good side. Had the ESC on that side fail last fall. I wonder if there's more load on the motor on that side

[REDLINE1]

For those who are interested I was able to remove the crooked brass stuffing tube by carefully drilling it out with a 5/16" drill Ended up being a piece of cake was out in 5min. A trip to my local ace hardware and I found a matching k&s brass 5/16" tube

[CraigP]

Excellent! Nicely done!

[fweasel]

Sweet. Interested to see if a quick bench test shows that side spin more freely.

[REDLINE1]

Thanks!

[REDLINE1]

Sweet. Interested to see if a quick bench test shows that side spin more freely.

Seems smoother
Haven't epoxied it yet. That's tomorrow nights project as it's almost time to hit the sack. Gonna put it all back together with stinger and cable installed to hold everything in alignment then load it up with epoxy on the inside. I have some marine rx epoxy left over I thought I might use. Also have some marine jb weld

[dasboata]

I pushed the cable shaft further in to show the angle. the issue I'm having is that side vibrates when running and is not as smooth as the other side there's some friction created by the misalignment

So what I have found is the angle of the stinger drive does not line up with the stuffing box stub, ( hole) that sticks out the back of the transom if you change the angle it will go in smother just remove the 1 screw on the stinger drive and the big nut, look in there and you will see what I am talking about Good luck !

[REDLINE1]

So what I have found is the angle of the stinger drive does not line up with the stuffing box stub, ( hole) that sticks out the back of the transom if you change the angle it will go in smother just rempove the 1 screw on the stinger drive and the big nut look in there and you will see what I am talking about Good luck !

Thanks, I'll check it out

[Rafael_Lopez]

Let us know if this fixed the vibration. I've advised manufacturing to pay attention to this, for future production.

Sorry you had to deal with this.

[REDLINE1]

So far so good got it all back together and lined up straight. Prop spins free no drag. The strut has a little slop in it from wear but overall it seems to run much better

[Erroneous]

https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-oc6ltsb

[REDLINE1]

https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-oc6ltsb

Is it hard to drill the stinger straight by hand to instal those? If I could chuck it in my lathe it would be perfect but the stinger is odd shaped with the ear on it and it wouldn't chuck in a regular 3 jaw

[Erroneous]

Is it hard to drill the stinger straight by hand to instal those? If I could chuck it in my lathe it would be perfect but the stinger is odd shaped with the ear on it and it wouldn't chuck in a regular 3 jaw

I just clamped mine in a vise and used a new 1/4" drill bit on low speed (air nozzle to chase away cuttings).. The main thing to watch out for is the bit grabbing the brass. Lil locktite on the new sleeve and viola.

[fweasel]

I just clamped mine in a vise and used a new 1/4" drill bit on low speed (air nozzle to chase away cuttings).. The main thing to watch out for is the bit grabbing the brass. Lil locktite on the new sleeve and viola.
Thanks for the tip. I thought they had to be pressed in/out.

[REDLINE1]

short video of my Zelos with the corrected stuffing tube and blueprinted sponsons.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPT8Q1O4nqc

Runs much smoother than before but still needs some tweeking. Looks like its running a little wet to me

[REDLINE1]

https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-oc6ltsb

I got these yesterday from OSE. They seem kinda loose on the prop driveshaft. Do they tighten up when you press them into the strut?

[CraigP]

I got these yesterday from OSE. They seem kinda loose on the prop driveshaft. Do they tighten up when you press them into the strut?

Not really, they rely on grease to take up the play. Try greasing them and then see if they are loose.

[REDLINE1]

Got them installed. Once you get the front and back one installed they tighten up a bit . Worked out well. Thanks

[fweasel]

I'll be sending my struts over to your shop for an offseason refresh. That is, if I don't destroy the rest of the boat first.

[REDLINE1]

I'll be sending my struts over to your shop for an offseason refresh. That is, if I don't destroy the rest of the boat first.

LOl least I could do for you letting me use your 1814's

[Erroneous]

Good stuff. They are for sure more slick than brass, easy to change out now.