Long enough water jacket?

[Drkrieger]

I got this combo as a great deal. 2200kv 3674. 4 pole 2400 watt motor with a water jacket. The water jacket seems a bit short. 48mm long.

Is this enough coverage?

[rol243]

its only about 10mm each end shorter than the motor so it should be ok.

[CraigP]

What did you pay, if you don't mind me asking...

[ray schrauwen]

GOOLRC makes a very long one with large water capacity but their o-rings are crap.

This is your best bet an best deal. Fits your motor too: https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ham-spartan

[denboy01]

If you want longer then try here
http://www.rcboatbitz.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5&zenid=brqv2bkl410tpbjbaisudeden1

[Drkrieger]

What did you pay, if you don't mind me asking...

$43.90, and was able to pick up from local warehouse. I know it is a serious maybe when it comes to quality. But I also wanted to have a bit to experiment with

http://www.valuehobby.com/power-systems/brushless-motors/inrunner-car/leopard-3674-2200kv-inrunner.html

http://www.valuehobby.com/36mm-water-jacket-5547.html

I will definitely report my results here.

[CraigP]

Good deal! Look, lots of talk on motor quality. What I'm seeing, is many of us are degrading our motors inadvertently. When we bring them in to shore, there is a tremendous amount of heat stored in the rotor. This heat radiates out and causes the temp to sky rocket. If the temp goes much over 175 deg F on a Neo motor, the magnets will degrade. Loss of magnetic power means less torque output, higher running current and higher temps, which continue the degradation process. Get or build a shore cooler, a bucket with a 12VDC water fountain pump with a line(s) for your hookup. I pull the silicone tubing off the rudder barb fittings and have a tube to catch and return the outlet water. Many ways to do it, all should be inexpensive. Start cooling your boat on the shore immediately after running, and just see how long that "lower quality" motor will last!

[martin]

Is the motor you got like the one pictured with the front end cap ( shaft end ) held by the 3 allen cap screws of like the drawing further down the page where the motor is like most 36 size motors with no screws in the end cap & a thinner end cap.

[Bp9145]

Good deal! Look, lots of talk on motor quality. What I'm seeing, is many of us are degrading our motors inadvertently. When we bring them in to shore, there is a tremendous amount of heat stored in the rotor. This heat radiates out and causes the temp to sky rocket. If the temp goes much over 175 deg F on a Neo motor, the magnets will degrade. Loss of magnetic power means less torque output, higher running current and higher temps, which continue the degradation process. Get or build a shore cooler, a bucket with a 12VDC water fountain pump with a line(s) for your hookup. I pull the silicone tubing off the rudder barb fittings and have a tube to catch and return the outlet water. Many ways to do it, all should be inexpensive. Start cooling your boat on the shore immediately after running, and just see how long that "lower quality" motor will last!

I don't know if this is advisable or not and I know only one person that does this besides me, but I have the convenience of home. I have a big pond in my backyard and I have a big cup full of ice water. When I bring my boats in I take a big gulp and blow super cold water into the tubes either through the rudder or water outlets several times to cool the motors and escs. I don't know if super cold ice water will damage anything but I've been doing this for a long time and it has worked great for me. I can actually run the boat after 5 minutes or so with different sets of batteries. I've also done this when I'm at a different pond but there's nothing like having the convenience of a nice pond out back., although, I wish it was bigger because I can't reach maximum speeds for many of my boats because I'm running out of water. I could put wheels on the boat and continue onto land. . .LOL. . .If what I'm doing is wrong PLEASE SOMEONE LET ME KNOW! ! !

[CraigP]

Besides the inconvenience, that's a way to get it done. But note: it takes time to get the heat out of the rotor because there is no direct cooling contact. I have about a Litre of fluid that I circulate and my temp gun is indicating I need to circulate the water just about five minutes. The temp starts about 82 deg F in the tub and goes up to 96-97. So that's a bunch of BTU's I'm getting out. If I put ice in the tub, it is much quicker. I doubt your effecting rotor heat much with a single blow of water... but heart is in a good place!

[Drkrieger]

Is the motor you got like the one pictured with the front end cap ( shaft end ) held by the 3 allen cap screws of like the drawing further down the page where the motor is like most 36 size motors with no screws in the end cap & a thinner end cap.

6 screws shaft side, looks quite well made there. the other side is 3 Allen screws holding the cap to the can. It definitely looks better made than the 6 pole 1500kv from Dynamite.

[rol243]

i wonder if this motor [ G Force ] is made by the same company that make G Force glow engines ? if so there not to bad.

[martin]

6 screws shaft side, looks quite well made there. the other side is 3 Allen screws holding the cap to the can. It definitely looks better made than the 6 pole 1500kv from Dynamite.
When you say 6 screws shaft side do you mean 6 allen screws holding the end cap to the can as the picture you show only has 3 cap screws shaft side.

[Drkrieger]

That must be an outdated photo. The one i picked up is 6 recessed allens on the shaft side, and the other side(by the wires) is 3 larger pan head allen screws.