Motor Upgrade????

[Chopper78]

I have been thinking about upgrading the motor in my Voracity. Wondering how everyone is dealing with the brace behind the motor. Cut it out or stick to the stock motor length.

Still have not seen another Voracity hull with a brace behind the motor.....

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170730/27bce855d36715845a4fc813b23593ff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170730/114cf93fc462df95a3962303692b8199.jpg


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[fweasel]

Wow, weird. Maybe a preproduction model or a revised version? I've had two Voracity hulls, and neither looked like that.
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[fweasel]

The more I think about it, it must have been an error at the factory, perhaps first day on the job for someone. I think the plastic brace that you have glued in directly behind your motor is the one that's supposed to be glued in in front of the battery trays, towards the bow. This is the only picture I have handy at the moment looking forwards into my Voracity hull.

152986

[Chopper78]

It has the brace on the bow end of the battery trays. My hull does have some funny things going on. The canopy also has horrible fitment. The sides stick up 5mm from the side of hull but the front and rear are flush. It's so tight front to rear, I need a pliers to lift up on the canopy bolt for removal. I have been working with Horizon, what a treat.... I ordered a new hull and canopy. Once I swap everything over I will send this one in for inspection per their request....
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170731/ccfaa2d6e441212b7a5a76a639a3018c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170731/30b7074ca248e152f2dedf610d873fd8.jpg


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[fweasel]

My replacement hull fits my existing hatch poorly, like yours, but not as bad. I've read several threads about people buying replacement hatches only to find the pins wouldn't align up front. Hopefully your replacements fit together well, but I wouldn't hold your breath until you see it first hand.

[Chopper78]

New hull arrived today. No brace and the old canopy fits excellent! New canopy should arrive tomorrow, hope it fits just as nice!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170801/a0a42d77428a6ecd1d7b7599adadc997.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170801/633689efe9f20bd919f0b586c0f0214c.jpg


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[Chopper78]

Canopy finally arrived. Fitment is excellent Even added some new hardware.... Overall, my replacement hull and canopy are much better quality than my originals.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170807/90950c256434bbdf3e89f09d5a032051.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170807/da686f5d863049b836928a561b9736a4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170807/9c407069ad60422666fbee1620329fef.jpg


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[RCMike]

Has anyone put the set up out of a Zelos 48, 1000kv, in a Voracity?

No amount of reinforcement enough, lol?

[fweasel]

My boat runs mid 60's on the stock setup with a bigger prop. It gets really hot though. My shopping list would be for a more efficient motor of similar size and kv. Sure, you could make this boat do 80 plus, but the hull just won't handle a crash at that speed.

[Steve069]

153179

That sucks, i thought mine was the current release since it has the break-away rudder... So I take it mine is the un-revised version? It would explain why the hatch doesn't fit worth a dang and constantly lets water in.

[Revolt Flash]

You need to tape around the hatch to keep the water out. I use Renfrew Hockey Shin tape.

[Chopper78]

You need to tape around the hatch to keep the water out. I use Renfrew Hockey Shin tape.

With my original hull, the amount of tape I need to use was unexceptionable. The fit was so poor I had to use 1.5" wide tape and that would still lift up.


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[fweasel]

A break away rudder is definitely the most current version of the boat. It appears they've also added a new brace directly behind the motor, likely to help with the hull cracking. I did a carbon fiber inlay across the bottom and up the sides to reinforce the hull and side seams. It made a significant improvement in stiffness.

The hatch sealing issue seems to be a newer issue. Perhaps the plugs/forms are wearing and the new parts aren't as true as some of the earlier parts. The gaps between my original hatch and hull were tight and even. The gap between my replacement hull and hatch are worse. I now tape mine up for every run because if it blows over and lands upside down, it will fill quickly w/o it. I would recommend taping anyway because the motor in this hull sits so low that it very easily gets wet if you take on water during you run, even w/o a flip. The rear bearings are not accessible without removing the rear end cap so simple preventative maintenance is a chore after it gets wet. I've since drilled a hole in my rear motor end cap after installing new Boca bearings so that I can easily add lubrication when needed.

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[Steve069]

A break away rudder is definitely the most current version of the boat. It appears they've also added a new brace directly behind the motor, likely to help with the hull cracking. I did a carbon fiber inlay across the bottom and up the sides to reinforce the hull and side seams. It made a significant improvement in stiffness.

The hatch sealing issue seems to be a newer issue. Perhaps the plugs/forms are wearing and the new parts aren't as true as some of the earlier parts. The gaps between my original hatch and hull were tight and even. The gap between my replacement hull and hatch are worse. I now tape mine up for every run because if it blows over and lands upside down, it will fill quickly w/o it. I would recommend taping anyway because the motor in this hull sits so low that it very easily gets wet if you take on water during you run, even w/o a flip. The rear bearings are not accessible without removing the rear end cap so simple preventative maintenance is a chore after it gets wet. I've since drilled a hole in my rear motor end cap after installing new Boca bearings so that I can easily add lubrication when needed.

Alright cool, so maybe having the brace behind the motor is a good thing..I was planning on copying Arrover's newer setup (turnigy esc/lepoard motor/his current prop) this winter when there is downtime. Just was curious if that motor brace would be a hindrance.


This is the tape I've been using on all of my boat lids, pretty nice stuff IMO.

[fweasel]

I was using the Horizon tape as well, but have since switched to regular vinyl electrical tape, color matched to the hull when available. It's gentler on the paint/graphics and doesn't leave the residue the hatch tape did. The only negative is that it doesn't bend and contour as well as the clear hatch tape.

[Revolt Flash]

I was using the Horizon tape as well, but have since switched to regular vinyl electrical tape, color matched to the hull when available. It's gentler on the paint/graphics and doesn't leave the residue the hatch tape did. The only negative is that it doesn't bend and contour as well as the clear hatch tape.

Have you tried the renfrew hockey tape. It's clear and leaves no residue.:thumbup1:

[ray schrauwen]

Have you tried the renfrew hockey tape. It's clear and leaves no residue.:thumbup1:

As long as you remove it after a run. I use it but, if you leave it on too long it leaves it's adhesive residue behind after a few days.