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View Full Version : Atomic Barbwire XL Direct Motor Swap



rayray9
07-26-2017, 09:44 PM
Seaking #2848 direct bolt-up, larger motor @ 3900kv, inrunner. Keep you folks posted with results, need to reset timing during this weekend run. Upgraded ESC already with 60A Seaking.

martin
07-27-2017, 10:58 AM
Just a heads up, the Barbwire XL with an inrunner motor will lose its self righting ability. Many have tried with fitting the heavier inrunner motors in this boat with no success. The heavier motor upsets the balance of the upturned boat + it also relies on the inertia of the spinning can of the original outrunner motor to aid selfrighting.

fweasel
07-27-2017, 10:37 PM
Yes, what Martin said. I ran a Leopard 2850 3850kv motor in my Atomik XL. It ran high 30's and turned on a dime, but would not self right on its own. It only took a little nudge with another rescue boat to knock it over. That hull definitely requires the mass/inertia of an outrunner to flip it over. This is why I sold my and moved the upgraded gear over to a similar sized Joysway Offshore Infinity with a much larger flood chamber. It rolls over on it's own without even engaging the motor.

Bp9145
07-28-2017, 04:20 AM
AAAHHH. . .Ryan so you have an Offshore Infinity as well. I have two, actually had three but gave one to a kid in the neighborhood that was always helpful to me around the yard and was good to my two young boys. He always enjoyed watching me run my boats in my backyard pond. So I gave him one with lipos and a charger. . .felt good promoting the hobby. The two I have and the Super Monos are among my very favorites since I can take them with me on vacation. .lol

rayray9
07-28-2017, 05:50 PM
Thanks for the advice guys, fweasel - I was looking closely at the barbwire xl you had for sale. I thought the flood chamber filled, places the prop underwater just enough for torque roll to correct. Hmmm.
I know the ProBoat Recoils (17 & 26) have the outrunner w/counter weight minus a flood chamber, thinking here

martin
07-28-2017, 06:59 PM
You will find the Recoils don't only rely on the outrunner motor along with the flywheel to right them, they also use the shape of the deck & hatch to help the hull roll over. This is why they have a curved bulbous deck & hatch.

rayray9
07-28-2017, 10:31 PM
Like an over-inflated football? The Barbwire Xl is a completely different hull. Ordered several different motors from different sources, boat was designed with a flood chamber. I will try all motors as long as it direct bolt up, find the best suited and then mod-it-up.
I got a (OSE) TFL Pursuit w/intergrated drive, making me nervous now.

rayray9
07-31-2017, 06:38 PM
Weekend try-outs.
Should buy a lottery ticket, I was able toggle the throttle enough to self-right after the upgrade. Takes more effort than before but it is possible with this motor combination

Going to need some advice here, the inrunner jacket seems to have an air / vapor lock. Im reading that the outlet fitting should be the highest fitting - is this correct? Getting no water through outlet fitting on this Barb. Single pickup setup, would like to swap to dual.

rol243
07-31-2017, 09:06 PM
yes you need to have the water inlet going to the lowest fitting on motor and the outlet coming out of the highest fitting., this way the total cooling jacket fills up with water before it exits through the outlet. if you want dual inlets for water just fit a Y connector inline on the water hose and run one hose to motor and the other to esc etc .

rayray9
07-31-2017, 09:47 PM
Thanks

fweasel
07-31-2017, 09:54 PM
I would not recommend Y fittings in your cooling lines. There's no way to guarantee equal flow through the lines, in fact, it will simply follow the path of least resistance, potentially leaving one device under serviced. If you want more water, add an additional pick-up. I did just fine with a single rudder pick-up with enlarged passages, a slightly oversized cooling line vs. stock, and ported water fittings.

As for your cooling jacket, make sure you can at least blow air through it. I've read about clogged jacket fittings with sealant, metal filings, or simply just too close to the surface of the motor housing.

rayray9
07-31-2017, 10:05 PM
MacBook Pro breaking my nuts.
No Y fitting on the intake, only on the output fitting


Thank you FB

rayray9
08-10-2017, 12:25 AM
Motor ripped out of stock mounts, fail indeed. Back in the lab - stock mounts = *!***!***!***!**. Dam fast boat in SAW on the water

martin
08-10-2017, 10:09 AM
Motor ripped out of stock mounts, fail indeed. Back in the lab - stock mounts = *!***!***!***!**. Dam fast boat in SAW on the water
Was it the entire long plastic section that came away from the hull or the watercooled metal motor mount coming away from the plastic mount.

rayray9
08-12-2017, 12:08 AM
Just the motor cooling mount, took the entire drive line out and bent the motor shaft. I upgraded the mount screws before to no avail. Back too the drawing board for this boat.

CraigP
08-12-2017, 09:32 AM
I would not recommend Y fittings in your cooling lines. There's no way to guarantee equal flow through the lines, in fact, it will simply follow the path of least resistance, potentially leaving one device under serviced. If you want more water, add an additional pick-up. I did just fine with a single rudder pick-up with enlarged passages, a slightly oversized cooling line vs. stock, and ported water fittings.

As for your cooling jacket, make sure you can at least blow air through it. I've read about clogged jacket fittings with sealant, metal filings, or simply just too close to the surface of the motor housing.

I agree about using a Y to different components. I have Y's on my ESC. I branch to each side then combine them again on the other side. Tubing needs to be the same length and no bends. I don't like the loop flow line, one side of the ESC gets hotter than the other... I think everyone using 4s or 3s should have two water pickups. Those setups run a lot of amps!

rayray9
08-18-2017, 10:16 PM
Found one bottle neck;
The original rudder pick up ABS tube outbound, way smaller ID than tubing. Drill out and epoxy 3/16 tube

CraigP
08-18-2017, 10:52 PM
Didn't quite follow you there Ray.. looks like the spell checker got ya!

rayray9
08-19-2017, 12:00 AM
The rudder pick up reduces the I.D.
EDIT;
Stock Barbwire XL - the plastic fitting at top of rudder strut, the barb that holds the line.
Look at it, it's a bottle neck.
Reduces the I.D. of the entire cooling system for a single pick up.

rayray9
08-22-2017, 07:05 PM
Fixed (edited), alright - back to self-righting. Flood chamber or lack of, new thread new thought.
If a mod wishes to combine please do.