Challenger 43

[fred 75]

151984151985151986151987151988

[fred 75]

151989151990151991

[Brushman]

You here?

can't believe it!:tongue:

:tiphat:

[fred 75]

My dear Brushman,
Very happy to read you here...:laugh::thumbup:
OSE forum since 2012...Great forum...I learn a lot...:thumbup1:
No choice when you love american V Hulls, especially Aeromarine ones ...:wub::tongue::usa:

[785boats]

Some great pics there.

[Monsterbrad]

That is my favorite boat.
Have one of Chris Fine's builds with an 11HP in it.
Super fun boat....
I have had that boat out in some 3 foot waves and it takes it.

[fred 75]

162274162275162276162277162278


Some others pics … 2x2 hours race...Electric and gas boats :smile:

[fred 75]

162279162280162281162282162283

[fred 75]

162284

[Peter A]

162274162275162276162277162278


Some others pics … 2x2 hours race...Electric and gas boats :smile:

Hi Fred
Are you running endurance races? What set up do you have in the boat?

[fred 75]

Hi Peter,
Yes...My set up is : TP 4070-440kv ( real kv is 460- 0 timing), Hobbywing 130 HV V3- X457- 12S 16000 mah-COG: 32 %.

:tiphat:

[Peter A]

Hi Fred
Great to see more electrics doing endurance. I have been running an Osprey this year,
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?58859-Osprey-Offshore-Endurance-Boat.

I would have been keen on a Challenger 43, but it is just too difficult and pricey to get down under. I have a 46" boat for next year running a Leo 5692 540 kv on 10s, same esc, 20AH packs. I may change over to 12s later as the 20AH packs seem to have become unavailium.
What prop(s) are you running and what sort of speeds are you doing?
Any chance of some pics of your set up?

I really enjoy the endurance racing, especially when you just keep going round without the gas issues. There can always be other problems at times though. I have been taken out several times by gassers and their bad driving!

[fred 75]

162363162364

I read your thread...The prop is an X457. Top speed is 72 Km/h with Multistars...Run Time: 21 to 23 mn. I Really like endurance Racing too...In France, it’s quite different : most of the gassers accept Electric boats...No problem...and some of them also have fun with electric boats...it’s effective for example in my club (Viry).

[Peter A]

162363162364

I read your thread...The prop is an X457. Top speed is 72 Km/h with Multistars...Run Time: 21 to 23 mn. I Really like endurance Racing too...In France, it’s quite different : most of the gassers accept Electric boats...No problem...and some of them also have fun with electric boats...it’s effective for example in my club (Viry).

Nice. How do you hold your batts in? Do they just have velcro to hold them to the hull? How do you seal your hatch, tape? My top speeds have been in the region of 70kph. In rough water you cannot use it so well, if you want to stay upright that is. I like the rough because it slows the gassers down, some of them here put in ridiculous horsepower and have boats of 65"+ in length. It does show though at times with reliability issues.
It has been great this year proving that electric can do endurance racing. I am hoping that there might be one or two more take it on.

[fred 75]

Hi Peter,
I only use Velcro to hold My batts In...But i’m not an exemple...too lazy and it’s hard for me to finish a boat...:tongue:...with the Weight and the dimensions of the 6S 16000, and a good Velcro, it’s ok for me...No particular issue... to seal the hatch, I’m using a large tape at the rear of the Hull...and I use a sheet of polycarbonate (lexan) under the hatch...Four races this year with the Challenger...and a first participation In the 24H of Viry, as member of the winning team...Great fun...A Great Way to learn about endurance boats...:thumbup1:

[tebby2]

Hello Fred 75,

I would like to build a Challenger 43 similar to your boat with the TP 4070 440KV motor, the 130 amp HV Seaking ESC, an Octura X457 prop, and a pair of 6S 200000 mAh Multistars wired in series for 12S Operation. I noticed that Peter A is drawing roughly 50 amps with his Osprey equipped with a TP 4060 540KV motor and a Prather 240 prop. How many amps is your Challenger 43 drawing with the TP 4070 440KV motor and X457 prop?

Could you indicate what hardware and running gear you are using in your boat. Are you running with a 3/16" flex cable & 3/16" shaft for the 3/16" bore X457 prop? What type of strut or stinger do you use, the size of your trim tabs, and the size of your turning fins. Does your boat employ a separate rudder assembly or an integrated rudder/strut assembly. Are you satisfied with your choice of the running gear and hardware. I have tried to get recommendations from FE boat equipment retailers, but have not heard back from any of them. Perhaps they are too busy with holiday sales this season to have time to respond to my emails.

Charlie

[Peter A]

Hi Tebby
If you use a similar/same setup as Fred you should get the same results. For hardware use whatever is most easily available or your preference. Most common would be either Speedmaster or TFL parts, either you can get here at OSE. It looks from the pics that he is using 3/16" shafts. that is no problem with a relatively short shaft. I have broken one this year in rough water, but I was running pretty hard and it was a cheap shaft.
My guess is that Fred's average current draw is around 40 amps. Going smaller on props, 55mm?, would lower both current draw and speed, and vice versa. The TP motor and SK HV 130 will be a good combination. Another motor option would be a 400kv HET motor http://www.highendrc.com/index_eproduct_view.php?products_id=338

[tebby2]

Hello Peter,

Thanks for your quick response. A 40 - 50 amp draw is pretty awesome for a 43" boat with twin 16000 or 20000 mAh 6S Lipos. Is the set back distance of the rudder assembly on your Osprey 4" or longer?

I will email OSE info with my parts and hardware list for this setup and see if they have other suggestions or recommendations.

Charlie

[Peter A]

Hello Peter,

Thanks for your quick response. A 40 - 50 amp draw is pretty awesome for a 43" boat with twin 16000 or 20000 mAh 6S Lipos. Is the set back distance of the rudder assembly on your Osprey 4" or longer?

I will email OSE info with my parts and hardware list for this setup and see if they have other suggestions or recommendations.

Charlie

The Osprey rudder is around 100mm, the stinger is the same as my Pursuit.
I would use the OSE quick change mount for a 40mm motor (I did!). My set up was drawing 50A average, so I could do 20 mins on 20000mah batts. I am planning on running 12s this year on the leo 540kv motor but will run smaller props to get around 70-75 kph and keep the current draw at 50A. I just have to get the boat painted, the prep is taking ages, as and when the weather and time permit. I was almost ready for colour but have had to grind out and epoxy the hull/deck join as it all cracked the paint around!! Painting will be a Christmas break job. I will be having some time off starting end of next week.

[fred 75]

Hi Tebby,

Peter answered most of your questions (Thank you Peter...:tiphat:). Pesonally, I do not use trim tabs because they could increase Amp draw; and, in most of the situations, they are not necessary to set correctly a boat. In my opinion, 12S 20 000 mah is maybe too heavy for the Challenger 43 (It could degrade the handling).
One last thing: with that kind of set up (low kv, 12S and a 130 HV esc) you can also go quite fast if you want (I don't speak about Endurance of course… ) with a different prop and different bats (For Example with the Challenger 43: 92kmh-57mph, 12S2P 5000 mah 30C, and X465). It's a quite versatile set up …

[tebby2]

Hello Fred 75,

Yes indeed, Peter was very helpful.

Thanks for the information about Challenger 43. Interesting about your choice to eliminate trim tab usage. Upon completion construction, I will do for initial trail runs without trim tabs to see how it performs. Assuming I get the hull trimmed and balanced correctly, and the boat doesn't porpoise or act erratically, I will choose to go without them. Less equipment and hardware is always better - there are less things to break down. Do you also eliminate turning fins for less drag?

Thanks also for the suggestion of not using the 20000 mAh batteries. The 16000 battery is less money and right now HK is sold out on the less expensive 20000 Muitistars. Also thanks for the input about the lighter weight higher C 6S batteries for more speed with a larger prop. Are you using two bladed props or three bladed props. I generally prefer three bladed props to get my larger and heavier hulls moving and keeping them up to speed without falling off plane going through turns.

Merry Christmas and happy holidays,
Charlie T

[fred 75]

Turn fines are very helpful to secure your turns in racing conditions (especially when you race against bigger boats … choppy water). It's a good thing if they don't touch water during straight lines (less drag).
I use two bladed prop, but, as you said, a three bladed prop can also do a good job …

[tebby2]

Thanks Fred,

I will take your suggestions, and run my initial trails with the Challenger 43 - with turning fins but without the trim tabs and see how it performs. Thanks for the tip about adjusting the turning fins so that they are out of the water while going straight, but dig in going around a corner.

I have a stock HK Pursuit that came with a SSS 3660 1620 motor and have never adjusted any tabs or turning fins in three seasons. Guess I don't like to tinker with things if they run well - especially if I'm not sure about what I'm doing. Thanks for your help.

Charlie

[rearwheelin]

Turn fins are very important 2nd to trim tabs

[rearwheelin]

Mine don’t hit the water at all going straight, Hope this helps 163032


https://youtu.be/tqZvBA90DqA

[tebby2]

Thanks rearwheelin for your photos. The aft view will be very helpful when it comes set up time for my endurance Challenger 43.

Charlie

[rearwheelin]

Thanks rearwheelin for your photos. The aft view will be very helpful when it comes set up time for my endurance Challenger 43.

Charlie

Your welcome! I’ve learned a little over the years. I made the outer turn fin/tab combo. The fins I can duplicate if you ever need a pair hit me up .

[Peter A]

Hello Fred 75,

Yes indeed, Peter was very helpful.

Thanks for the information about Challenger 43. Interesting about your choice to eliminate trim tab usage. Upon completion construction, I will do for initial trail runs without trim tabs to see how it performs. Assuming I get the hull trimmed and balanced correctly, and the boat doesn't porpoise or act erratically, I will choose to go without them. Less equipment and hardware is always better - there are less things to break down. Do you also eliminate turning fins for less drag?

Thanks also for the suggestion of not using the 20000 mAh batteries. The 16000 battery is less money and right now HK is sold out on the less expensive 20000 Muitistars. Also thanks for the input about the lighter weight higher C 6S batteries for more speed with a larger prop. Are you using two bladed props or three bladed props. I generally prefer three bladed props to get my larger and heavier hulls moving and keeping them up to speed without falling off plane going through turns.

Merry Christmas and happy holidays,
Charlie T

Hi Charlie
For an offshore endurance boat weight is not a disadvantage. In rough water you cannot use top speed, by rough water I mean chop that is over 6" and up to 1-1/2'. It is fine in race water too. My Osprey was running 10s 20000 mah at 65-70 kph for 20 mins.
Trim tabs are a tuning add on. I know boats that do not use them and are extremely competitive in offshore. If a boat is trimmed right trim tabs are not needed, I will not be using them on my new boat. I find that a COG of 32% is pretty much the magic number to keep the boat running smooth, stable and balanced through rough water.

[rearwheelin]

Thanks rearwheelin for your photos. The aft view will be very helpful when it comes set up time for my endurance Challenger 43.

Charlie

Sorry for another vid , this is how my boat handles in choppy conditions. I don’t change anything on it ever , it’s set and forget. A vid you might be able to reference to when thinking of how you need your setup and the pic I post . Cheers
https://youtu.be/4QkJDLGG1uU

[tebby2]

Hello Fred 75

Just one last question about your HV set up. Are you using a separate battery pack to power your RX and SK HV ESC or an external BEC? The SK 130a HV v3 does not have an internal BEC. I have purchased a CC BEC 2.0 WP external BEC to use with the SK 130 HV, but am starting to have second thoughts - in that a failed external BEC could fry my electrical components including my expensive SK ESC by sending direct 12s battery pack voltage into the RX circuit. Also I have read information as to the correct method of connecting the SK 130a HV v3 anti spark (resistor) bullet plug after connecting the main battery plug to allow the ESC capacitor bank to slowly charge through the resistor wire (to prevent the spark discharge). If you are using an external BEC, are your BEC power leads connected to the ESC lead inside the resistor plug or outside the resistor plug - at the main battery connector plug. My concerns are that the spark discharge could harm the BEC when connecting the main battery connector plug.

What are your thoughts and experience with the SK HV ESC

[fred 75]

Hi Charlie,

In my opinion, the Seaking V3 is the best ESC that you could find for endurance use, with a 12S set up: waterproof, very easy to program with the card, reliable, and not expensive. It's a 2 years experience.

I personally use a receiver pack. I do not like external BEC. For me, the separate battery pack is the best solution: reliable and simple.

One last pic to tempt you...:tongue: :thumbup1:163098

[tebby2]

Thanks for your input Fred. It appears that other members in the ESC forum agree with the use of a separate receiver pack - so that will be my set up also. Since you have experience with the SK 130A HV V3, I wanted your thoughts also. The $181 (US) SK HV ESC is not something I want to replace should the external CC BEC fail. I like the convenience of an internal BEC with an arming switch, but don't want to fry my electronics. Do you use an inline power on-off switch with the receiver pack, or do you plug it into the receiver each time you run your boat. Awesome pic by the way!

Charlie

[Peter A]

Hi Charlie
I will second Fred on the separate receiver battery. I use a trackstar switch in my setup. Any on/off switch is sufficient. Turn on rec., then arm esc, and yes you plug in batts and the use the SK plug with resistor in line to arm esc.

[tebby2]

Thanks for your input Peter. I was reading information from other members in the ESC forum that indicated a significant amount of CC external HV BEC failures. These failures would result in the main battery voltage jumping through the BEC into the RX circuit - frying RX's and servos. It was my assumption that the spike voltage could also fry the ESC throttle circuit via the attached RX cable.

The ESC power shut off switch is also important to me in that it allows me to safely arm or disarm my boat's ESC while the boat is carried to and from the water. As a rule my main battery pack connector plug is difficult to plug into or unplug from the ESC power plug unless the boat is firmly resting in its cradle - on the shore. Thanks for the advice about the Trackstar Power Switch. I was wondering if the Trackstar Power Switch is somewhat water resistant as is typical with the SK ESC's equipped with BEC circuit switches.

Charlie

[fred 75]

Think «*!**simple*!**»...On/off switch is ok...:thumbup1:...I also use an external safety cut off loop, with anti Sparks....Very Nice and secure during test phases if you want to change a prop, for example...And last but not least, during races if your boat has troubles....

[tebby2]

Thanks for the input Fred. My boat will be used from time to time used in brackish water, so I'm not too thrilled with the idea of an external power loop. My idea is to keep the water out of my boat as much as possible and keep my electronics as dry as possible. I've had some hard luck in the past with damp electronics - especially the ESC to RX throttle cable servo connector plugs. Nothing quite as embarrassing as a FE boat going in reverse in slow speed loops with the rear deck plunging under like a submarine. Thank goodness for positive floatation foam in the bow of my HK Pursuit. It's happen to me twice (in fresh water ponds) and both times the bow of the Pursuit has stayed afloat long enough to be rescued by my kayak. So my motto is to have no hull or deck penetrations other than cooling water hose fittings, a steering linkage tube boot, a well epoxied drive shaft tube and of course - plenty of hatch tape around the cockpit joint.

Charlie

[Peter A]

Hi Charlie
I use a safety loop as part of the circuit. The loop is glued into the hull deck so does not leak. It can be protected against salt or brackish water with dielectric grease on the plugs. The safety loop is just there to isolate the main power pack in the event of a rescue or when retrieving the boat. I used a trackstar switch because I had one, it is mounted inside the hull (on top of my steering servo). I also waterproofed it, because it is possible for things to go wrong!
Also set the failsafe options on your radio, that way if you lose signal or turn off your tx if things go wrong then the esc will shut down.
Have a Merry Christmas.

[tebby2]

Hello Fred,

Thanks for the info about the safety loop.

I just received delivery of my Challenger 43 hull with classic deck from Aeromarine Laminates on Thursday. The hull came equipped with 5" wide mounting stringers for a gas engine. My question is - did you use the stringers in your boat with an 5" motor mount bracket , or do away with the stringers completely for a traditional motor mount? The reason that I ask is that there does not seem to be enough space to secure the twin 6S 16000 mAh batteries outside the 5" stringers and alongside the motor for a 32 - 34% hull weight trim distribution. Also how far forward of the transom did you mount your TP 4070 motor? It appears from the profile of the stringers, that the gas boys mount their engines quite a bit forward of where a traditional FE motor mount is located. Did you use manufactured battery mounts for securing your batteries or just plain Velcro strips glued directly to the hull. I would love to see a pictures of the inside layout of your boat.

Charlie

[rearwheelin]

The stringers make the hull stronger . All my boats utilize stringers especially Aeromarine hulls as they are “apart of its structural integrity “... keep the stringers if at all possible with your battery investment and all

[fred 75]

Hi Charlie,
No stringer In my hull. You can find a picture of my boat In the first page. The beginning of the shaft is 13,5 cm away from the transom...In my opinion you can’t find a good batteries position with the stringers, especially with 6S 16000 mah batteries.

[tebby2]

Thanks for the information Fred.

Steve from OSE indicated that the typical Challenger 43 set up for FE does not come with the 5" rails. I know the lighter construction Osprey and other FE's in this size don't have stringers either. I assume the current stock of (sale price) Challenger 43's from Aeromarine are set up for gas engines. I will carefully remove the stinger rails and use OSE's quick change motor mounts for the 4070 TP motor. This arrangement should allow a good amount of space for the twin 6S 16000 Lipo's and provide for the correct weight trim distribution.

Charlie

[Peter A]

Hi Charlie
You can cut out the stringers and do a layer of carbon through the bottom of the hull. That is what I have done on my current build. Last year I did a carbon inlay on the Osprey as well, it puts a lot of strength into the hull which is needed to support the battery weight.

[tebby2]

Hi Peter,

The extra carbon or Kevlar bottom layer in the hull sounds like a good idea after removing the stringers. I will give Chris at Fine Design a call and see what he does with his FE Challenger 43 hulls. He lists the Challengers as light weight electrics, so I'm inclined to think that he add little or no extra layers of glass in the bottom of his boats. However, running a Challenger for speed with a pair of 5000 - 6000 mAh Lipo's is a lot less weight and hull load as compared to a endurance boat using a pair of 16000 mAh Lipo's.

[Peter A]

Hi Peter,

The extra carbon or Kevlar bottom layer in the hull sounds like a good idea after removing the stringers. I will give Chris at Fine Design a call and see what he does with his FE Challenger 43 hulls. He lists the Challengers as light weight electrics, so I'm inclined to think that he add little or no extra layers of glass in the bottom of his boats. However, running a Challenger for speed with a pair of 5000 - 6000 mAh Lipo's is a lot less weight and hull load as compared to a endurance boat using a pair of 16000 mAh Lipo's.

Hi Charlie
I'll let you in on a little secret I have discovered. Weight in the boat is not your enemy! There is no down side to adding in a decent extra layer of carbon or glass. It is better to have a strong hull and with endurance you are only looking for speeds in the 65-75 kph range. My Osprey weighed in at 9kg with 10s 16000mah and ran slightly faster than with 5000mah packs. I suspect my new boat will come in at over 11kg. I will know in a couple of weeks as I am putting it together ATM. Just started gluing the motor mount in. Hardware is on, I should start taking some pics I guess!

[srislash]

Hi Charlie
I'll let you in on a little secret I have discovered. Weight in the boat is not your enemy! There is no down side to adding in a decent extra layer of carbon or glass. It is better to have a strong hull and with endurance you are only looking for speeds in the 65-75 kph range. My Osprey weighed in at 9kg with 10s 16000mah and ran slightly faster than with 5000mah packs. I suspect my new boat will come in at over 11kg. I will know in a couple of weeks as I am putting it together ATM. Just started gluing the motor mount in. Hardware is on, I should start taking some pics I guess!
This in my experience is very true. Weight doesn’t seem to matter on a boat once on plane and kept there. Getting it there and on/off plane is what will use battery up. This shouldn’t be an issue at moderate speeds.

[tebby2]

Hi Peter

Thanks for your input, and be looking forward to seeing pics of your new boat. Are you building another Osprey hull or something different?

[Peter A]

Hi Peter

Thanks for your input, and be looking forward to seeing pics of your new boat. Are you building another Osprey hull or something different?

No it is an AB Marine Intimidator 46" hull. My ultimate preference would be a Aeromarine Challenger 48, but sort of like hens teeth to get one either here or to here in NZ.

[fred 75]

No it is an AB Marine Intimidator 46" hull. My ultimate preference would be a Aeromarine Challenger 48, but sort of like hens teeth to get one either here or to here in NZ.
I really like that hull...:wub:very good choice In my opinion...:thumbup:...

[fred 75]

164200164201164202164203164204

Windy sunday...:tongue:

[fred 75]

164205164206164207164208

[tebby2]

Hello Fred

Great pictures of your boat in action. Looks like pretty rough seas with 6" - 8" waves. Your boat seems to be running fairly light on that stiff chop. Are you using two 16,000mAh 6s batteries? What was the speed of your boat in those rough seas?

Charlie

[fred 75]

Yes, 12S 16000 mah...and X457 prop...Detongued. No GPS that particular day, but fast enough for these conditions...

[srislash]

Yes, 12S 16000 mah...and X457 prop...Detongued. No GPS that particular day, but fast enough for these conditions...

Yuuup, anything over 30mph in that is silly. Oh but so much fun!!

[Peter A]

"And that's the way aha aha I like it"!
So much fun in rough water.

[fred 75]

Hi Peter,

:thumbup:...rough water is super fun...It also improves your driving skills...( very sad to read your thread...:crying:...I think that everybody here has met that kind of moments...Keep the faith...:thumbup1:)

First race of the season, next sunday...:banana:

[Peter A]

Hi Fred
Thanks for the sympathy, it was my own fault though. I am just about to order the new motor. BTW what program card are you using on your esc? My existing one the I use on other Turnigy/Seaking esc's doesn't work at all, neither does a generic Turnigy one.

Good luck with your first race. Ours is April 13 on our Pond.

[fred 75]

I’am using the Hobbywing one ( It works for my 120 A, 180 A and 130 HV HW ESC)...the only one that I have...164217

[Peter A]

Mmmm I have the same, but it does not light up on the 130 hv. Maybe I've been doing it wrong? I will try again when I get my new motor. I have previously set it up manually, but following the beeps is nutty!

[fred 75]

164252

Hi Peter,

Maybe, it will help you…

[Peter A]

Thanks Fred
I'll give it a try when I get the new motor.

[fred 75]

Rough water last Sunday afternoon (better conditions in the morning...Less Wind)... Maximum Runtime: 35 minutes. Top speed: 66 km/h (41 mph).

https://www.flickr.com/photos/laurent_lamacz/sets/72157706030919511

https://youtu.be/t1qVFVnV-zA



164333164334

[tebby2]

Very nice run. How did you do against the gas boats?

[fred 75]

First place. It was a 2 hours race.

:smile:

[tebby2]

Awesome job Fred, keep up the good work! I would have kinks in my neck for a week following the event. Standing, holding your transmitter and racing for 2 hours is hard work. Personally I like sitting if I have open water and a run time of 20 or more minutes. Don't think you can sit and race with the competition is right on top of your boat. March is a little too cold in New England - USA. It will be another month before all the ice has melted from the outdoor ponds. Looks like it was chilly where you were holding the race. There appeared to be quite a few winter coats among the participants in the YouTube video.

Charlie

[Peter A]

Excellent job Fred. Love that rough water, it slows the gassers down, and turns them upside down!

[Peter A]

Fred, I have a question. How are you getting a top speed of 70+ kph with an X457? The speed calc, which I have found pretty close, gives a speed of 60kph. 65-66 is what I get with a Prather 245, and what the speed calc says it should do. What am I missing? I know you are a bit lighter with the 16AH batts, but the weight does not make a great deal of difference IME. What am I not getting right here? The Prather has a bit more pitch but similar diameter to the 457, therefore gives higher speeds.

[Brushman]

Hello,

this is also very surprising for me to have this 70Kph speed with this prop. some people are very good for speed/runtime optimization. the secret is a combination of distance at the transom and height of the prop, work on the prop, some work at the rear of the hull... Some french racers are really talented to extract 5-10% more speed, and also 10% in run time...
This challenger hull is also exceptionnal for its low drag...

[fred 75]

Hi Charlie and Peter,

First of all, there is a misunderstanding: I am not alone during the race. It’s a teamwork: 1 or 2 friends are with me for 2x1 hour race or 2x2 hours race. That’s the spirit of that kind of race for me (and In France, generally speaking...a kind of tradition...)... «*!**pilot*!**», «*!** co-pilot*!**», and someone for mechanical things and packs changes. And we switch. It’s a kind of training for the main event: 24 H race (Viry). It’s a very nice feeling to see your friends race with your boat. They can give you good advices and their perception.

For the speed, all is about tuning, time, work...and Luck sometimes :tongue:...Speed calculator is just a good starting point. Many ways to impove slippage.

Brushman is right ...about the hull particularly...:iagree:

[Peter A]

Hmmm would have been good to get a Challenger hull, but difficult to get one here, certainly costly, but I may save my pennies and see. And I understand Aeromarine can be hard to communicate with.
My boat is running clean and free. I put on some trim tabs and that has improved the ride and turning, especially left turns. I can turn hard rudder at full throttle and the boat does not 'misbehave'. I might look at making some spring steel turn fins that are a bit thinner, but I don't know where I can make a lot of gains. I think a bit of prop work is in order, de-tongueing a bit should unload it and improve current draw, perhaps gain a little speed.

Any hints on improving that 'slippage'?

[fred 75]

In my opinion:
1. No trimtabs.
2. Detongued prop could be a good option.
3. As Brushman said : height of the prop, lenght from the transom, angle, could make a Big difference.
4. Weight is not neutral...

I would like to see your boat...and drink a beer with you...:beerchug: :laugh:

[Peter A]

Trim tabs are close in by the stinger, the hull handles better with them so far. More testing when I get the new motor.
Will detongue the prop. I want to get a hold of an X457, shouldn't be too hard as that was a nitro prop and not many nitros running these days.
Drive line centre height is around 1/2" from bottom of V.
I have a servo adjustable stinger and bringing the angle up while running brings an audible difference in rpm. I am going to play around with end points on this to find the optimum range. My initial settings are reasonably good.

Come down under! Bring your boat with you. I don't drink anymore but...already consumed more than my share. Lol.

[tebby2]

Hello Fred,

Just one more question about your Challenger 43 set up. I finished my boat last week and have had it in the lake four times since the weekend. I'm running the same set up as your boat with the COG at 33% from the stern. I was wondering about the trim angle of your stinger. On my boat the stinger is set parallel with the keel. At high speeds the boat wants to become airborne and jumps off any waves into the air and likes to do 180's if it doesn't come doesn't come down straight and level. I'm very pleased with the 2X6S 16,000mAh setup that includes the TP 4070 440KV motor and an Octura 457X/3 prop. The boat tops out at around 50 -51 mph (on calm seas) according to the Taranis GPS telemetry - plenty fast enough for my needs. However I would like to keep the boat in the water at high end speeds not having it airborne at any bounce off the water.

Charlie

[Peter A]

Hi Charlie

You just cannot run high speeds in rough water, the faster you go, the less control you have. I would suggest that you prop down and use throttle. You need to keep in mind that the scaled speeds are way past that which full size boats do, and even they cannot run flat out in rough water. It is all about running to the conditions. Propping down will give you longer run times also, I would suggest an X457 two blade or Prather 245. Also move your cg back to 32% or so that when the boat jumps it stays level and lands flat.

Peter.