***NEW*** Pro Boat UL-19 30" Sport Hydro

[Darin Jordan]

FINALL I get to speak.... Introducing the latest offering from Pro Boat Models: The UL-19 30" Sport Hydro!

https://www.horizonhobby.com/ul-19-30-inch-hydroplane-rtr-prb08028

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[RayR]

Is this a brand new motor offering?

[Darin Jordan]

Is this a brand new motor offering?

Yes. It's designed after the 1500 and 1800KV Dynamite motors. Great power.

[Darin Jordan]

Here is an early video from the initial testing of the first Production Sample. This was using a Dynamite 1800, as the new 2000 wasn't available at the time. Hits 53mph in this test...


https://youtu.be/8qLudWuHoCw

[stratus]

Really nice....damn it if you had it announced a bit earlier i had the money ready,but again till is available in Europe ill have the money ready again :).Anyway can you pleases check if this size of baterys can fit in each side :169x69x26mm those are turnigy graphenes 6000mah 3s

[Brushless55]

I will be getting one for sure.. :thumbup1:

[fweasel]

I like the new motor can design with access to the rear bearing.

[Darin Jordan]

Mine is all ready to go for P-LTD Sport...

Consider this my "Race Prep" thread... just add stickers. :thumbup1:

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[Mxkid261]

Awesome.

[tlandauer]

Wow, this I have to get, in love already!

[Keagan-Z06]

Nice!

[revoltrunner]

Wow, this I have to get, in love already!

you already bought yourself one birthday present today....lol
Happy Birthday
Have a great day

[Rafael_Lopez]

Some 5s testing on a windy day. Top speed was 56mph with a balanced and sharpened stock prop. I'm sure you could get more if it were thinned and polished, but I just did a quick and dirty.

https://youtu.be/JVheo5COCds

[stratus]

can you pleases check if this size of baterys can fit in each side :169x69x26mm those are turnigy graphenes 6000mah 3s
One of you that you have the boat please check and tell me if this dimensions for battery will fit or what the available room is

[Rafael_Lopez]

Hope this helps.

[ray schrauwen]

Purdy... Looks like a cross between BBY UL-1 /UL-125 and a Phil Thomas SS.

[TheShaughnessy]

I like that the fin is stainless. It should take a good edge and keep it.

[tlandauer]

Wow, this I have to get, in love already!


you already bought yourself one birthday present today....lol
Happy Birthday
Have a great day

:bounce::rofl:
:beerchug:

[stratus]

Hope this helps.

I must be really on the limits for the length.Thanks a lot Rafael

[Peter A]

Nice!
Does the new motor mean you guys have a new P-Ltd 'spec' motor for racing? Darin are you saying that you didn't need to mod it as per your normal for racing? Is this a true out of the box race ready boat?
ProBoat have been bringing out some nice boats lately, it's just a shame they are pretty rare here in NZ as no-one brings them in.

[Darin Jordan]

Nice!
Does the new motor mean you guys have a new P-Ltd 'spec' motor for racing? Is this a true out of the box race ready boat? .

My comments are based on capability. I can't comment on legality for a particular class, as rules differ. It is NOT presently a legal motor per NAMBA P-LTD rules, as it's not on the approved motor list.

[golfito]

Nice!!!

[IRON-PAWW]

Been waiting for a Proboat Hydro for years. Will there be a bigger hydro hull hull in the works aka the Zelos 48 and 36? A little bigger hull is what I'm truly after to cope with a little rougher conditions. Just asking. If not I may just give this hull a try. Got an FE30 that *does* suffer when the ripples come up a bit.

[Darin Jordan]

Here is the official Pro Boat video, posted yesterday:


https://youtu.be/32MaQaM1Uxw

[TRUCKPULL]

Darin

What is the Dia. and length of the new motor.
Our racing rules go by Dia. and Length.

Do you think this new 2000kv motor would be better then the UL1 motor for "P" Lim. Sport Hydro?

Larry

[Darin Jordan]

Darin

What is the Dia. and length of the new motor.
Our racing rules go by Dia. and Length.



It fits within the "M-Spec" rules...



Do you think this new 2000kv motor would be better then the UL1 motor for "P" Lim. Sport Hydro?

Larry

I do...

[TRUCKPULL]

Darin
PM coming your way.

Larry

[ray schrauwen]

test ...

[Erroneous]

Looks like another payday for the Proboat team. Good stuff!

[ChevyPrerunner]

Nice well done!

[GixerGuy1978]

Nicely done Rafael, Darin and Proboat! Congrates!

[bigcam406]

whats a good aftermarket prop for this boat?

[Keagan-Z06]

It might be too early to tell, the boat ain't even hit customers yet.

[Brushless55]

Darin posted this.
https://youtu.be/8qLudWuHoCw

[Tamelesstgr]

He's cheatin! ABC 1815-17-45(2) prop :bounce:

[Tamelesstgr]

another video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVheo5COCds

[TRUCKPULL]

He's cheatin! ABC 1815-17-45(2) prop :bounce:

He ran the bigger prop because he used a 1800kv motor since the 2000kv motors were not ready yet.

Larry

[Darin Jordan]

He's cheatin! ABC 1815-17-45(2) prop :bounce:




He ran the bigger prop because he used a 1800kv motor since the 2000kv motors were not ready yet.

Larry

How do you "cheat" when developing a hull??

[TRUCKPULL]

Darin
I sent you a PM

Larry

[Tamelesstgr]

How do you "cheat" when developing a hull??

Just messin around, would be sweet if it came with an ABC 17 degree rake prop.

[TRUCKPULL]

Just messin around, would be sweet if it came with an ABC 17 degree rake prop.

Kenneth

It says in the information that it comes with a 1.7 (43.18mm) X 1.6 Pitch and if you look closely at the pictures it looks like a 17 degree rake prop.

So it would be very close to a ABC 1716 - 17-45/2 which is a 17 degree rake prop,

https://s7d5.scene7.com/is/image/horizonhobby/PRB08028_a17

Larry

[Tamelesstgr]

oooh, I did not notice that image, the parts listing showed what looked like a stock proboat prop.

[Darin Jordan]

People need to stop upgrading the boat before they even have one. You may find that it's pretty well equipped out of the box. :spy:

Do a proper sharpening, perhaps a little thinning, and balance the stock prop. I think you'll be surprised. From there, getting more speed is relatively easy, especially with the selection of ABCs available.

[bigcam406]

People need to stop upgrading the boat before they even have one. You may find that it's pretty well equipped out of the box. :spy:

Do a proper sharpening, perhaps a little thinning, and balance the stock prop. I think you'll be surprised. From there, getting more speed is relatively easy, especially with the selection of ABCs available.

that is why I asked. not all of us have access to people in their area who balance and sharpen props.

[Darin Jordan]

that is why I asked. not all of us have access to people in their area who balance and sharpen props.

You don't need access to anything other than YouTube to resolve that. Go do a search on "Balance RC Boat Prop". There are tons of videos there explaining the process.

If you want to buy prepped ABC Props, you're best bet in my opinion is Brian Buaas: brain@raptorrc.com

If I were starting out with something other than the stock prop, on 4S, I'd probably get myself an ABC 1716-17-45(2). Whether that's "ideal" or not remains to be seen. Boats need to get here first.

[Darin Jordan]

Also, keep in mind... I'm NEVER going to attempt to recommend a prop that'll give you the "best speed". Maybe I can make it work, but maybe you can't. It's not as simple as just bolting a pinion gear into an RC Car. If I suggest a prop, and you end up burning up a power system, then I'm the bad guy, because you did everything "just right" and it was my prop recommendation that was the problem.

So, the props I would recommend are for "normal" sporty running. If you want to race GPS readouts, you'll have to build up your prop inventory from there.

Sorry, just being prudent, based on past experience.

[bigcam406]

Also, keep in mind... I'm NEVER going to attempt to recommend a prop that'll give you the "best speed". Maybe I can make it work, but maybe you can't. It's not as simple as just bolting a pinion gear into an RC Car. If I suggest a prop, and you end up burning up a power system, then I'm the bad guy, because you did everything "just right" and it was my prop recommendation that was the problem.

So, the props I would recommend are for "normal" sporty running. If you want to race GPS readouts, you'll have to build up your prop inventory from there.

Sorry, just being prudent, based on past experience.
Just wanted to know what aftermarket prop with similar specs as the factory one would suffice. I would rather just buy a sharpened and balanced prop than try and balance one myself.

[Darin Jordan]

Just wanted to know what aftermarket prop with similar specs as the factory one would suffice. I would rather just buy a sharpened and balanced prop than try and balance one myself.

Brian Buaas @ Raptor RC : brain@raptorrc.com

That's your guy!

[TRUCKPULL]

Just wanted to know what aftermarket prop with similar specs as the factory one would suffice. I would rather just buy a sharpened and balanced prop than try and balance one myself.

Nobody knows yet what all the factory specs are, all they know at this time is that it is 1.7" Dia and a 1.6 pitch.
It does look like it has some Rake to it, could be 15, 16, 17, Degrees, or just a 10 degree prop with some Backcut.

We will have to wait until either the factory releases more on the specs or until someone gets a factory prop in hand, that knows how to measure it.

If you want one completely Balanced and Sharpened, Buy one and give it to the person that you want to do the work.

Larry

[Darin Jordan]

Nobody knows yet what all the factory specs are, all they know at this time is that it is 1.7" Dia and a 1.6 pitch.
It does look like it has some Rake to it, could be 15, 16, 17, Degrees, or just a 10 degree prop with some Backcut.



If I were starting out with something other than the stock prop, on 4S, I'd probably get myself an ABC 1716-17-45(2).

With the 2000KV motor, as I stated above, this is a solid place to start and I think you'll find that it performs VERY well.

[AndyKunz]

Purdy... Looks like a cross between BBY UL-1 /UL-125 and a Phil Thomas SS.

I wasn't involved in it at all, Ray - and didn't even know about it until I saw the release! Rafael didn't know me or that I'd be interested. Now I have to rethink my pulling for getting Darin on the Spektrum Team ... :D :D

I'm planning on getting one (already working on it) myself. I was going to laser cut a scaled-up UL-125 to 30" this summer anyway - this just saved me some time.

Andy

[AndyKunz]

that is why I asked. not all of us have access to people in their area who balance and sharpen props.

You can do it! http://psfastelectrics6.tripod.com/balancing_props.htm

Read the article - you don't have to go as extreme as I did.

Andy

[Darin Jordan]

Other than the rather generic UL styling, I don't see this hull being that similar to these others. Of course there are some standard racing hull geometry and features, like the sponson cutouts, etc., but otherwise what it is is a concept that Rafael and myself sat down and sketched out, based on the current crop of GP boats... my concerns was regarding the geometry and performance, and Rafael did all the styling, layout, graphics, and fought the good fight to get it into Production.

If it resembles the AQ UL-1 in any way, it's because that boat was designed after the same idea...

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[Brushless55]

People need to stop upgrading the boat before they even have one. You may find that it's pretty well equipped out of the box. :spy:

Do a proper sharpening, perhaps a little thinning, and balance the stock prop. I think you'll be surprised. From there, getting more speed is relatively easy, especially with the selection of ABCs available.

I agree with this 100% !
cannot wait to get my hands on one...

[REDLINE1]

Anybody taken delivery on one of these yet? Waiting to hear some feedback

[704Authentic]

:smile:

[AndyKunz]

Just got word this morning that mine will be here late July, along with the container shipment. My employee order list just got a little bit longer :laugh:

Can't wait!

Andy

[ray schrauwen]

Just got word this morning that mine will be here late July, along with the container shipment. My employee order list just got a little bit longer :laugh:

Can't wait!

Andy
Nice to hear from you Andy.

[andygoesfast]

Anybody taken delivery on one of these yet? Waiting to hear some feedback

My buudy got one! There in stock in oakdale, CA right now.. I am mad at HH right now or I would buy one for sure. My buddy took it out of the package and tossed two traxxas 3s 500mahs, its fast with no anything! We learn really quick that you cant come on the throttle fast or it try's to sub, will run again with lighter packs this weekend. New to hydros but I think its semi common(the throttle)? Once on a plane its fast and rides on rails! no gps # but it was running fast. Great boat, will buy one soon as I find it used so my money doesn't go to HH. I didn't post up the video but I have a couple on my cell phone.

[AndyKunz]

Why are you mad at us?

Andy

[fweasel]

Why are you mad at us?

Andyproblems with his new gas Zelos

[Rafael_Lopez]

My buudy got one! There in stock in oakdale, CA right now.. I am mad at HH right now or I would buy one for sure. My buddy took it out of the package and tossed two traxxas 3s 500mahs, its fast with no anything! We learn really quick that you cant come on the throttle fast or it try's to sub, will run again with lighter packs this weekend. New to hydros but I think its semi common(the throttle)? Once on a plane its fast and rides on rails! no gps # but it was running fast. Great boat, will buy one soon as I find it used so my money doesn't go to HH. I didn't post up the video but I have a couple on my cell phone.
This is the first time I hear that it subs when trying to take off. One of the purposes of the ride pad design is to prevent this and we have not had any issues with it subing other than when trying to take off slow. The boat should jump on plane as soon as you hit the throttle, full pin.

Here, see the boat run, stop, and take off with no issues. This is on 6s with the CCW prop from the Zelos 36 (X442).
https://youtu.be/VbGvYRecbI0

[Rafael_Lopez]

problems with his new gas ZelosIf this is the same Andy I am thinking about, I talked to him on the phone and gave him some advice that should help him get going. I'm waiting to hear back from him, but I'm sure it's not going to be the boat but rather an engine tuning issue. We'll get him going either way. :)

[REDLINE1]

This is the first time I hear that it subs when trying to take off. One of the purposes of the ride pad design is to prevent this and we have not had any issues with it subing other than when trying to take off slow. The boat should jump on plane as soon as you hit the throttle, full pin.

Here, see the boat run, stop, and take off with no issues. This is on 6s with the CCW prop from the Zelos 36 (X442).
https://youtu.be/VbGvYRecbI0

Looks nice ! I may have to add another boat to my fleet in the near future

[CraigP]

Nice sponsons! They look like they're laid out flat. Can't tell how low the riser angle is, but it certainly isn't extreme like the other RTR's out there. Nice work Darin!

[andygoesfast]

This is the first time I hear that it subs when trying to take off. One of the purposes of the ride pad design is to prevent this and we have not had any issues with it subing other than when trying to take off slow. The boat should jump on plane as soon as you hit the throttle, full pin.

Here, see the boat run, stop, and take off with no issues. This is on 6s with the CCW prop from the Zelos 36 (X442).
https://youtu.be/VbGvYRecbI0


We tried to take off slow(getting to know the boat).. Rookie mistake! You have to give it full throttle to get it up on a plane. Once we figure that out the boats rides like it on rails, unstoppable power and speed, until lipo cut.. This is a awesome boat! I will be ordering one up once available again!


Yes its the same Andy, Thanks for your help with the zelos!

[limitedr1]

anyone still talking about this boat I could use some help...

[ray schrauwen]

Post your question.

[limitedr1]

I have only had this boat for about 4 days and taken it out twice. on both outings it has died after about a 2 min run. the first it took a very long time to get it. the second it was very close to shore. when I got hatch open the esc was in touchable it was so freaking hot. I'm assuming that was why on the first run as well. I guess my question is more of a two part. 1st is does the esc have an overheat protection and that is what is shuting me down? then secondly if this isn't actually capable of a 6s set up wouldn't I be better to get like a turnigy/seaking esc in a 160a or a 180a rather then buying two new 2s batteries. I'm currently running 2 3s 5400 venoms I don't remember the c rating honestly but I run my genesis and kos of them and seem to run no problem till low voltage cut off but different power systems and both have 180a esc ;/

[Raydee]

My buddy ran his on 6s right from the start. First run was only 1 minute and just about fried the motor. Pulled the boat out of the water and could smell something burning. Decided to pull the motor and put a Neu 1515 1.5y in so he could run it on 6s. The esc seems to be handling the Neu motor and the boat runs fast but real loose. He also had the flex cable snap on the third run and replaced it with a .187 cable. Ran a few times since then and seemed to run good. He is now playing with turn fins to calm the boat down a bit. I would say they should have just introduced this as a 4s boat only, with the high kv motor 6s is just to much for oval running. He also made a aluminum plate under the motor mount after the stock mound stripped on him. I would love to buy the hull and hardware only and rig my own electronics but buying it part by part just isn't economical.

Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk

[limitedr1]

thank you for your reply Raydee. I guess my main frustration stems from the fact that at least in my mind, proboat is an "upscale" r/c company. And when I drop that kind of money for an rtr boat I expect to put batteries in and be able to take it out with out worrying if the boat is gonna make it back to shore. versus buying a kit off say hobby king and piecing it together motor, esc ect. and wondering if I have a good combination for a fast, reliable set up. I need to purchase one maybe two more boats in the next week maybe week and a half and my heart was set on the blackjack 29 but after my experience with this boat I'm wondering if I should just try my luck with a kit and put something together myself. idk maybe I'm asking to much from them :/

[Zondar]

I am having to:
Replace shaft
replace fin
and find lipos that will fit under cab.
Ran one outing. FYI

[JimClark]

Can't you guys have fun what the stock setup? Stay with 4s maybe sharpen a prop. You can easily get 55 on the stock setup.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

[limitedr1]

well that's kind of my issue. I bought this boat with the understanding that it could be ran stock with 6s. I have a couple of paris of 3s batts which is why I went with this boat when I seen on website and the box that it could be ran stock on 6s. and clearly that is not the case. so now I'm a little pissy lol

[Darin Jordan]

well that's kind of my issue. I bought this boat with the understanding that it could be ran stock with 6s. I have a couple of paris of 3s batts which is why I went with this boat when I seen on website and the box that it could be ran stock on 6s. and clearly that is not the case. so now I'm a little pissy lol

Did you READ the manual?? It states the VERY SPECIFIC conditions under which you can "safely" run 6S...

Most of those of us who are experienced with RC Boats in general, KNOW you don't use a 2000KV motor on 6S for anything other than a pair of very brief straight-line passes. The manual clearly states this for the UL-19...

[Doby]

Nobody reads manuals.....

[Mxkid261]

well that's kind of my issue. I bought this boat with the understanding that it could be ran stock with 6s. I have a couple of paris of 3s batts which is why I went with this boat when I seen on website and the box that it could be ran stock on 6s. and clearly that is not the case. so now I'm a little pissy lol

Directly from the manual, took me all of 2 minutes to look up.

"The included electronics are rated for 2S–6S LiPo
batteries; however, running the stock propeller nonstop
on a 6S battery could overheat your electronics or
damage your batteries. If you run the stock propeller on
6S, we recommend using full throttle on straight line
passes only. Return passes should be at half throttle
to reduce the heat of the electronics. If you want to
run 6S nonstop, use optional propellers (PRB282006 or
PRB282027)."

"The included propeller provides the best performance
between 4S (14.8V) and 5S LiPo (18.5V). 5S configuration
can be achieved by mounting a 3S LiPo battery
(DYNB3811EC) on the left side of the boat and a 2S LiPo
battery (DYNB3810EC) on the right side of the boat.
The added weight of the 3S battery on the left side will
counteract torque twist caused by the propeller spinning
at high RPM."

[ray schrauwen]

Can't you guys have fun what the stock setup? Stay with 4s maybe sharpen a prop. You can easily get 55 on the stock setup.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

I hate to say it but some people don't look past the advertisement of it running on 6s and since car, plane and heli guys have 3s packs all around and few if any 4s packs, you get this myopic reading of manuals. With the exception of boats there aren't that many RC vehicles running on 4s and I say this in reflection to what is offered many places for battery selection. Hobby King has far less 4s pack selections than 2s or 3setc. Other shops are similar.
It makes it harder these days to buy budget cells in 4s.

Rant over. Darin spelled out the issue.

[limitedr1]

my most sincere apologies to everyone here. I did not know there was a revised manual online. in the manual that came with the boat that section that was quoted above is not there. no where in my manual is that stated. I have read several times. I'm guessing it was revised and put online after the boat was launched. I did not mean to offend darin or anyone else with my post for help with overheating issues. I would think a simple " yes there will be heating issues with the stock prop, we have done some testing and to run consistently on 6s we recommend these two props etc. I did not expect to be belittled here. especially by a rep of the boat company that probably knew that it was revised and not in the customer paper copy that came with the boat. but chose to respond in that way. craigP....I am trying to further my knowledge of these things, I thought it would have been a good place. again I apologize to everyone here. an honest thank you to the others that did post and try to help.

[CraigP]

Limited, I have re-read my post and you are right, there is frustration there. For that, I apologize to you and the forum. But the content is dead on. Those of us who have been involved in rc boats for a while get frustrated when new member after new member do the same thing. Disregard stock trim, shoot for the moon, then complain when the outcome is not good. There is so much information on this site. There are the calculators that can guesstimate to an extreme degree of precision what prop, motor and battery will do with a setup.

For us that are serious about this sport, much enjoyment is derived from the "exploration" of a given hull. The finding out, the learning, tweaking, reading and filling out the experience of mastering a hull. Perhaps there will always be this disconnect between folks that just want to drop an RTR in the water and go, and those that what to push lines and experiment. The sport needs them all! Sorry, but you turned out to be the "whipping boy" on this topic, and you didn't deserve that. Bottom line, that's a good boat! It's SO much better that a UL-1. So please try to do some research on stuff you would like to try. If you got questions about the research, we are all in to help, as this site has demonstrated thousands of times. I guess the heat has got us seeing red!

[Mxkid261]

my most sincere apologies to everyone here. I did not know there was a revised manual online. in the manual that came with the boat that section that was quoted above is not there. no where in my manual is that stated. I have read several times. I'm guessing it was revised and put online after the boat was launched. I did not mean to offend darin or anyone else with my post for help with overheating issues. I would think a simple " yes there will be heating issues with the stock prop, we have done some testing and to run consistently on 6s we recommend these two props etc. I did not expect to be belittled here. especially by a rep of the boat company that probably knew that it was revised and not in the customer paper copy that came with the boat. but chose to respond in that way. craigP....I am trying to further my knowledge of these things, I thought it would have been a good place. again I apologize to everyone here. an honest thank you to the others that did post and try to help.



No need to be sorry. I can see how that would be a little frustrating if the manual that came with the boat isn't the same as the full pdf manual online. I would expect it to come with a full manual.

[fweasel]

Most of those of us who are experienced with RC Boats in general, KNOW you don't use a 2000KV motor on 6S for anything other than a pair of very brief straight-line passes.
Unless you're running a 29 V3 cat or Zelos...

[limitedr1]

153053 I don't know it its a matter of full manual or if it was changed after the fact. but page 5 online is clearly different then my manual I received with the boat. kind of a mute point now, just didn't want you all to think I'm a bigger jack ass then what some of you probably already do. but clearly it was added after I think

[Mxkid261]

Unless you're running a 29 V3 cat or Zelos...

The veles looks like more of a 4s boat. Sure, it CAN run on 6s, but that probably doesn't mean you should be doing wide open oval laps till LV kicks in. My s10 with a 4.8 LSX and a borg s475 can push 20 psi, but I know what the risk is running it at that. Daily drive it on 8 psi and be safe, take it to the track for a couple passes and jack the controller up. My buddy never ran his stock v3 geico on 6s unless it was for a couple SAW passes, he KNEW it would run hot if he did any more than that.

[bigcam406]

153053 I don't know it its a matter of full manual or if it was changed after the fact. but page 5 online is clearly different then my manual I received with the boat. kind of a mute point now, just didn't want you all to think I'm a bigger jack ass then what some of you probably already do. but clearly it was added after I think

Makes me wonder why they updated the manual in the first place. Someone forgot to input the original information or was the problem discovered after the initial release and Proboat is just covering their behind? Its not your fault at all. Hope it gets sorted for you.

[CraigP]

Seems like some marketing bozo threw "6s compatible" in there... the stock motor clearly is not the right speed for 6s. Man, I run a 1250kv in my 8s setup... BTW, it's not the size of the motor that makes it cell compliant, it's the kv. The size comes into play when you run larger props. It kinda looks like to me the stock motor should be a 4072 or equivalent. 36 seems a bit wimpy...

[dtacmed]

Any initial reconditions. Strut setting, battery placement etc. Mine just came in will be running 4s 5000 50c . Thanks

[CraigP]

I don't have that boat, but from the recent posts and discussions, that boat is pretty fast stock. I would start there and see if it's quick enough for you. You can search for the UL-19 and pick up prop info and strut depth on this site. I believe they are setting the strut neutral and the same depth as the back of the sponsons.

[MADRCER]

The Pro Boat prop has slightly less pitch than the ABC 1716.


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[CraigP]

Man, huge rake on those props!

[ray schrauwen]

Thanks for posting! Nice to see them side by side.

[Darin Jordan]

The Pro Boat prop has slightly less pitch than the ABC 1716.


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Most likely because it's more similar to a 1715...

[MADRCER]

Most likely because it's more similar to a 1715...

Thanks for clearing that up Darin. I saw a post on FB and Rafael stated it was similar to the 1716. The 1716 works great on my Geico set up with the 3831 motor. I'm going to run the stock s&b prop soon to see how well it does prepped and compare the results. Thanks again to everyone involved with Pro Boat for continuing to bringing us good RTR products.

[dasboata]

Also, keep in mind... I'm NEVER going to attempt to recommend a prop that'll give you the "best speed". Maybe I can make it work, but maybe you can't. It's not as simple as just bolting a pinion gear into an RC Car. If I suggest a prop, and you end up burning up a power system, then I'm the bad guy, because you did everything "just right" and it was my prop recommendation that was the problem.

So, the props I would recommend are for "normal" sporty running. If you want to race GPS readouts, you'll have to build up your prop inventory from there.

Sorry, just being prudent, based on past experience.

so true me either !!! I quickly put marks stock SS prop on my pitch gauge came up with 2.50 of pitch

[Rafael_Lopez]

Seems like some marketing bozo threw "6s compatible" in there... the stock motor clearly is not the right speed for 6s. Man, I run a 1250kv in my 8s setup... BTW, it's not the size of the motor that makes it cell compliant, it's the kv. The size comes into play when you run larger props. It kinda looks like to me the stock motor should be a 4072 or equivalent. 36 seems a bit wimpy...

The manual was updated because the boat is intended to be run on 4s, being that it fits the P-LTD class, but the electronics are 6s capable. The issue is that people never think of propping down and then complain that there is a heat issue or blow up the electronics. The recommended packs are 2, 4s packs, it's on the box and in the manual. The optional packs are 6s as is a smaller prop, also in the manual, in the parts list. I rewrote the manual so that it was 100% clear on what to expect and to prevent people from over heating or blowing up their electronics by running the stock prop on 6s.

[CraigP]

Thanks Rafael, that's good info. Still think the motor is a bit small, but understand that brings other factors into consideration. It's my understanding the boat is quick stock, so that's where folks should start...

[Rafael_Lopez]

Darin has proven the boat will swing an 1815 or 1816 (cant remember) on 4s and get 53 mph. It may even swing an 1819 and get closer closer to 55+. To me, that's where a P-LTD boat should be speed wise, to be competitive. Why didn't we include a prop closer to 18XX instead of one close to the 17 series? Because people would have thrown 6s at it and definitely burned stuff up. When you're in our shoes, you learn that you have to put competitive products on the market but also do your best to protect people from themselves; unfortunately.

[dtacmed]

My 1st hydro. Running stock on 4s and got 46 mph. Now to figure how to balance and tune it for a little more speed

[CraigP]

Let us know what you find out! I'm curious....

[Rafael_Lopez]

46 is great! I was seeing 44-46 depending on water conditions when testing with a raw prop.

[CraigP]

The video on that boat is just bloody awesome! Proboat did a great job! I'm not sure how you and Darrin are connected to them, but if you're part of the product development, I say job very well done. It's a boat to be proud of, for sure!

I got to tell you, I got a couple of the vertical stabilizers from the UL-19 to put on my DFVortex 34. Here's a pic..

[dtacmed]

46 is great! I was seeing 44-46 depending on water conditions when testing with a raw prop.

Very Impressed so far (except for a prop shaft flex cable separation) . To this point my BJ-29 V3 has been my favorite of my 7 boats but this one may just pass it. Great job Quality build really a nice package.

[dtacmed]

Can someone tell me where or how to determine the correct balance point on the UL-19 Thanks Again !

[Darin Jordan]

Can someone tell me where or how to determine the correct balance point on the UL-19 Thanks Again !

Well, you're limited somewhat on this boat do to the restrictive movement in the battery trays. Only so much wiggle room.

I'd say basically push the batteries ALL the way forward in the trays and run it. Ideally, the "correct" balance point should be about 1" aft of the sponson ride-surfaces, but I'm not sure that's achievable with the stock battery trays, and it'll likely be a little further aft.

Generally speaking... if the boat is flying off the water (speed dependent, obviously), then your balance point is too far aft, assuming correct strut position. IF it's running very wet (lots of weight on the nose) and not coming anywhere near getting loose, then move the batteries back to loosen up the front end (get more air under it).

[CraigP]

Well, you're limited somewhat on this boat do to the restrictive movement in the battery trays. Only so much wiggle room.

I'd say basically push the batteries ALL the way forward in the trays and run it. Ideally, the "correct" balance point should be about 1" aft of the sponson ride-surfaces, but I'm not sure that's achievable with the stock battery trays, and it'll likely be a little further aft.

Generally speaking... if the boat is flying off the water (speed dependent, obviously), then your balance point is too far aft, assuming correct strut position. IF it's running very wet (lots of weight on the nose) and not coming anywhere near getting loose, then move the batteries back to loosen up the front end (get more air under it).

This is good, basic advice for all hydros. Weight and strut are critical adjustments. Take time, do one change at a time. When working on strut, move in very small increments. This is the most sensitive adjustment. Make sure the bottom is f your turn fin is parallel with the bottom of the boat. Then rotating it CW should hold the right sponson down more. CCW should make it raise. You gotta be patient and change each tuning point one at a time until you learn what your hull likes!

[dtacmed]

Thanks for the information. Definitely different from Vees and Cats.

[eric113]

I finally got run mine.
I ran it 5-6 laps box stock.
I brought it in then temped the esc and motor. Both around 138-140 on 4s. My battery's were very warm. I didn't temp them. They Gen Ace 5000mah 50c 2s.

So if I'm racing P limited hydro will I need higher C rating packs?
Also I felt the turning was too wide even with the steering wheel cranked all the right in the corners. Do I need to adjust the turn fin to get it more responsive in the corners along with the maybe adjusting the rudder turning?

[Livnonthedge]

I finally had a chance to run the ul-19 on some older 30c 5300 packs and it ran great.i can't wait to try some real packs(65-135c),the boat was super stable and temps were good 😊 For out of the box this thing does everything well,my faith in proboat is back on plane
Nice job pb

[TRUCKPULL]

I finally got run mine.
I ran it 5-6 laps box stock.
I brought it in then temped the esc and motor. Both around 138-140 on 4s. My battery's were very warm. I didn't temp them. They Gen Ace 5000mah 50c 2s.

So if I'm racing P limited hydro will I need higher C rating packs?
Also I felt the turning was too wide even with the steering wheel cranked all the right in the corners. Do I need to adjust the turn fin to get it more responsive in the corners along with the maybe adjusting the rudder turning?

If you need some Better batteries, look here;
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?58023-Batteries-For-Sale&p=700756#post700756

More info and pictures at the top of the thread;
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?58023-Batteries-For-Sale

Larry

[limitedr1]

just wanted to give a quick update as my previous posts probably looked like I was hating on proboat. when in fact that is not the case. in the last 4 months I have spent over 1200.00 dollars with proboat/horizon hobby. and possibly more with the veles out now. as far as my disappointment in the ul-19 when I first posted and the manual thing, my ul-19 has turned into the boat I wanted now. my new zelos 36 had the recommended prop down listed for 6s run. being as it was not runnable when I got it I figured I might as well steal the prop off it on put on my ul-19 and run on 6s.....and wow. this is what I wanted when I bought it. it absolutely flew down the lake. and best part was the run time and speed I was more than happy with. I'm sure I sounded like a giggling school boy as it made quick work of the space I was running. and.....ran all the way to low volt cut off. I wasn't going to take it with me to my reunion to red fish lake this weekend but now I must !! hopefully I can get my new zelos figured out b4 the weekend and it can come to I'm dying to get it wet. thanks again everyone!

[fweasel]

ran all the way to low volt cut off. Good to hear you're back running in the fun column again. Do yourself a favor and don't run your packs down past 3.8-3.75V which happens well before the LVC cutoff kicks in. Your batteries will thank you for it.

[Brushless55]

I agree, keep atleast 20% left in the packs.
Me personally I try having 25-35% left after a run.
Battery life is much better.

[limitedr1]

thanks for the advise! I usually try to stop b4 lvc but I was just to tickled about what it was doing I lost track of the time I had been out lol. seems like I read somewhere about being able to change that setting in the esc or am I mistaken? Ill do some digging around and see if I can find something. I think I can get more out of her still as I just threw the batteries in the middle of the trays and still had my strut picked up a bit. my turn fin is straight vertical and I can tell its dragging the right side down quite a bit at the speed its going. I started out by just seeing if it would run the whole time without shutting down and just got side tracked goofing off. I was just gonna sell it or give to my son but now I'm thinking I'm keeping it

[eric113]

IF it's running very wet (lots of weight on the nose) and not coming anywhere near getting loose, then move the batteries back to loosen up the front end (get more air under it).
I have my packs all the way to back and still running very wet.

Do I need to tilt the turn fin? What about the strut? I ran a 1816 prop with strut in stock position do I need to drop it down 3/16"?

[H00t]

thanks for the advise! I usually try to stop b4 lvc but I was just to tickled about what it was doing I lost track of the time I had been out lol. seems like I read somewhere about being able to change that setting in the esc or am I mistaken? Ill do some digging around and see if I can find something. I think I can get more out of her still as I just threw the batteries in the middle of the trays and still had my strut picked up a bit. my turn fin is straight vertical and I can tell its dragging the right side down quite a bit at the speed its going. I started out by just seeing if it would run the whole time without shutting down and just got side tracked goofing off. I was just gonna sell it or give to my son but now I'm thinking I'm keeping it

I am new to boats, so someone else may need to correct me.
I set my ESC for ~3.2-3.4 volts. Then I put additional voltage testers on each battery. I set them to 'scream' at ~3.6 volts.

Here is the 'screamer' i use....others exist....

https://www.horizonhobby.com/lipo-voltage-checker-warning-alarm-dynf0002

That way I hear when the battery is getting low but the ESC never stops the boat.

The 'Pros' need to suggest the correct threshold, but when it starts screaming constantly at 3.6. after they sit idle, they creep back to 3.75 and stay there.

[Rafael_Lopez]

For those that need an updated flex shaft, please call Product Support.

Monday-Friday: 8 A.M. – 7 P.M. CST
Saturday 8 A.M. – 5 P.M. CST
Sunday: Closed

Surface Vehicle Questions? Call 888-959-2306

[nitrous8e]

what cell batteries have people been using i am thinking of running 2 4s in par. 4500 to 5000 mah.

[eric113]

These are what I run.
https://giantpowerlipos.myshopify.com/collections/graphene-2-0-giant-power-70c-140c-lipos/products/2s-7-4v-2-cell-5000mah-graphene-2-0-pro-boat-race-ready-2-pack-set-up-for-4s-power

155454

[nitrous8e]

in series ?

[TRUCKPULL]

in series ?

Yes - they are 2S packs, in series to give you 4S at the Motor.

I have a pair of them from Giant Power for sale seeing that I retired my Spec boat.

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?58440-2X-2S-6500mAh-65C-130C

Larry

[JAZA NZ]

Any 1 know if the ul-19 and the veles 29 run the same flex cable and prop?

[Clintnz]

Need some help on setting the strut height / angle if anyone can help
Thanks

[CraigP]

There’s a bunch of topics on the UL-19 on this forum... Just do a search for UL-19 and I’m sure you’ll find it.

[Clintnz]

Yer I have done a search but I’m unable to find anything

[MADRCER]

I wonder how fast my new boat will go? :popcorn2:



156638 156639

[JimClark]

Depends on how you prep it

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

[MADRCER]

Depends on how you prep it

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

I don't know what that means...:biggrin:

[JimClark]

Then not very fast


I don't know what that means...:biggrin:

[MADRCER]

Then not very fast

Yea, that's what I was afraid of Lol... I'm guessing low to possibly mid 70's with one of my good props on it...:popcorn2:

[Brushless55]

Then not very fast

That's awesome! LOL

[CraigP]

Well, maybe this will help... on the initial setup, strut depth set so mid-line of prop shaft on the strut is the same as the depth of the back of the sponsons. Use a flat surface like your kitchen countertop, granite is best. The bottom of the boat should be parallel to the granite top for the first 4-5” from the transom. No angle on strut to start. Bottom of turn fin should be parallel with bottom surface mentioned. Bottom of rudder should also be co-planer, so all three surfaces are parallel. For this setup, need to measure the distance from the mid-line of the strut to the bottom of the strut, probably about 0.15”, but measure it. Move the strut up by this distance, so when the boat sits on the granite, it will be resting on the back of the sponsons and the strut. This position is how it will ride. When rudder and strut are set, move the strut back down that measures distance. Tighten it all up. Set the batteries so that the COG falls at about the mid point of the turn fin. I have a work bench with two, 4” X1” boards attached, running parallel and width set so it sits inside the tunnel. Need at least 1/8” of space between boards and the sides of the tunnel. Get a 1/4”, straight copper tube, place it on the boards and straddle the boat across the air traps. Move the boat back and forth and find the balance point. Tube needs to stay perpendiculr to the boat. Check where the tube is relative to the turn fin, move batteries to the position so it balances midway on the turn fin. Mark the location for easy placement. All gear should be on the boat, including the cowl. Now go out and let her rip! Strongly advice a prop on the smaller side for first run, or your boat could end up looking like this!

[MADRCER]

That's a lot of good stuff there Craig! I hope mine don't end up on the bank like that one! Lol. I need to put my GPS units back on charge and take it out for a spin sometime soon. I'm curious to see how it will stack up against my green boat in the end. Maybe my lake won't freeze over anymore and we might find out sooner than later. :drool:

[eric113]

I found when I owned my UL-19 the CG was way off even with moving the battery’s all the way forward. It still was tailheavy.

I raced it on 4s 5 Laps with borrowed ABC1816 prop and it woke it up and was in 135 range in temps for both. During the summer when in 90’s.

I also suggest the OSE UL-19 eletricronics tray. It will help lighten it up. Also may think about picking a speedmaster hydro round bottom strut.

The stock turn fin is too small. If you plan on doing saw passes it won’t matter. You plan on running ovals, then look into a new turn fin. Mojo makes a nice stainless steel one much bigger too.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180202/f1c2764760083ee7629dcf89744758e6.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180202/58e7f552c4ccee30b28a5503c87741e8.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180202/e685746876900681da561e7d54bb7bdc.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180202/1bf873e83b06b89818f998aa75a7df63.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180202/6fa92b35475c2816373e8634937d32fe.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180202/b5228ce8ee07e0d2738f58ef75961645.jpg

[MADRCER]

Thanks Eric! The Carbon tray looks real nice and I will be picking one up if I keep this boat very long. I got a quick run in a few minutes ago right at dark in freezing temps (lol). With that being said it does look like I got a stable platform to work with. I'm going to wait for better days and the upgraded cable before I put my good props on it though.

[MADRCER]

I always seem to get a scuff here and there and of course after my first run I found a couple. So I got to looking for a paint solution and I found one that is a near exact match. Back in the day I used to build some scale trucks in my spare time and I came across a can of Pactra True Blue Pearl in my paint cabinet and it flat out matches perfect. See pictures below.


156714 156715 156716156717 156719

[Darin Jordan]

Those of you using that Carbon Tray. It's nice, but if you'd like to retain the extra rigidity of the factory tray, here is a little mod that helps tie it into the front mounts.

156730

156731

156732

156733

156734

[Darin Jordan]

Carbon filler piece is drilled, then I tapped into the top plate with 4-40 threads, and opened up the holes slightly on the filler plate side.

Then I epoxied and screwed together the pieces using 4-40 aluminum socket-head cap screws. Now solid, with little flex. A little Velcro over it all and the ESC mounts right in front of the motor.

156735

156736

156737

156738

[MADRCER]

Here is my 100% stock boat run on 6s. Not my best battery packs by no means. My best ones along with my best hardware will go on the boat after I get the upgraded flex installed. All I got was 63.5mph on this run before the rain came. Thanks to Chris for the s&b on the stock prop as always!

156754


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uyHuPh9Qlv0&feature=youtu.be

[MADRCER]

Below is my 4s run.

156755


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZ5mynahVtA&feature=youtu.be

[vinnyp]

Looks like you are getting that new boat sorted out. I am surprised at how badly that boat submerges under light acceleration. :sinking-guy:

[MADRCER]

Thanks VInny! It does decent and I don't think I'm to far off on my speed guess of low to mid 70's after it's equipped with my "good stuff". Yes, as you noticed this boat is nose heavy and can go scuba diving if you take off very slow with it Lol! I've searched around online for a benchmark and the best speed I've found with this boat is like 68mph running an ABC prop. With that being said I guess a bone stock run of 63.5mph isn't too bad. So just maybe I can get the Blue boat in the 70+ mph club as well....

[CraigP]

Looking good Madrcer! Is that a neutral setup as I was describing or something else?

[vinnyp]

Mark,
You have to add the new ride to your list.....

[MADRCER]

Mark,
You have to add the new ride to your list.....
We need a reference somewhere!


Looking good Madrcer! Is that a neutral setup as I was describing or something else?
Thanks Craig! Yes sir, I did adjust to be as neutral as possible, but I did go ahead and add a touch of positive to the strut because I knew what my water and wind was going to be like at the time of the run.

[CraigP]

That’s great! It works real good on my hydro too... I think some of the compensations on the rudder and turn fin are masking other issues, and just add drag. Good luck on your speed quest, please keep us posted.

[MADRCER]

I figured that I would share my 68mph run with you all from a few days ago... so here it is if anyone's interested (it didn't end without a rescue though). The boat was still set up fairly wet and conservative (still feeling it out) and I made three pretty decent passes, then I was waiting on the water to calm down for a couple of more passes and as I was taking off the flex came loose from the collet (should have changed it out from the start with) and it was dead in the water. So the risk taker that I am and I was being lazy and didn't want to get the Tug out of the car for the rescue, so I tried to rescue it the Veles and it didn't go very well as you will see from the video. The boat got 67 and 68mph on the GPS and the data logger. I was able to later retrieve my flex and prop since I was able to see when it fell out during the retrieval process. The flex looks like it could be reused but I'm not risking it anymore. Now I'm now ready for calmer weather with my upgraded shaft to give it a go again. Thanks again to Chris for the Awesome prop work!

157165 157166


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pm2RsDaTzRE&t=18s

[MADRCER]

Got the blue boat out today and of course the rain came and shortened my play time...The boat is handling pretty decent and I'm able to get WOT runs on 6s with no lift hardly at all. I don't want to jinx my next run, but unofficially on this run I did get a new best speed out of it. Thanks to Travis for the flex and Chris for the prop!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7szs0wS4nM

[vinnyp]

Nice and smooth run. Too bad the weather bit you. The weather sucks here as well.

[Cougar33]

Well, maybe this will help... on the initial setup, strut depth set so mid-line of prop shaft on the strut is the same as the depth of the back of the sponsons. Use a flat surface like your kitchen countertop, granite is best. The bottom of the boat should be parallel to the granite top for the first 4-5” from the transom. No angle on strut to start. Bottom of turn fin should be parallel with bottom surface mentioned. Bottom of rudder should also be co-planer, so all three surfaces are parallel. For this setup, need to measure the distance from the mid-line of the strut to the bottom of the strut, probably about 0.15”, but measure it. Move the strut up by this distance, so when the boat sits on the granite, it will be resting on the back of the sponsons and the strut. This position is how it will ride. When rudder and strut are set, move the strut back down that measures distance. Tighten it all up. Set the batteries so that the COG falls at about the mid point of the turn fin. I have a work bench with two, 4” X1” boards attached, running parallel and width set so it sits inside the tunnel. Need at least 1/8” of space between boards and the sides of the tunnel. Get a 1/4”, straight copper tube, place it on the boards and straddle the boat across the air traps. Move the boat back and forth and find the balance point. Tube needs to stay perpendiculr to the boat. Check where the tube is relative to the turn fin, move batteries to the position so it balances midway on the turn fin. Mark the location for easy placement. All gear should be on the boat, including the cowl. Now go out and let her rip! Strongly advice a prop on the smaller side for first run, or your boat could end up looking like this!

thanks for all the tips here Craig . I am new to hydros and new to this section and i can use all the help i can get . more information the better.. never even thought of the counter top test.. but it makes sense.. i am not sure how the rudder works with the test. my prop will sit not that deep.. i am getting a 90 mm rudder.. Dont know about the pop being that deep.
thanks for the information
LLoyd

[vinnyp]

Thanks Vinny! Yes, I've been testing some of my smaller boats in some smaller wind resistant waters because of all the bad weather here lately and I finally thought that I could have a decent outing yesterday before the scheduled rain came and what do you know... the meteorologist blew the forecast again...

Here we are getting hit with one major storm after another. Another is coming in tomorrow, bringing it to 3 in 10 days!!

[CraigP]

thanks for all the tips here Craig . I am new to hydros and new to this section and i can use all the help i can get . more information the better.. never even thought of the counter top test.. but it makes sense.. i am not sure how the rudder works with the test. my prop will sit not that deep.. i am getting a 90 mm rudder.. Dont know about the pop being that deep.
thanks for the information
LLoyd

On the strut, I move the boat onto the stuffing tube and find a spot up the curve of the tube that lines out with the center of the prop shaft. Another way is to measure with calipers from the bottom of the boat to the center of the propshaft in the strut. I then cut a block of wood and sand in so it’s the indicated height of the calipers. Then set the boat onto the block, moving the boat back off the edge of the countertop until the strut is hanging clear.

Note: the recommended depth applies to 1/10 scale models, like the UL-19.

The rudder should be square with the back of the sponsons as a starting point. The depth of a rudder is a cut until it doesn’t turn good anymore, then buy a new rudder. Another way is the make it about 1-1/4 to 1-1/2” below the strut. That’s a pretty safe depth. Some angle the bottom of the rudder towards the transom, which has the effect of putting the bow down, on a hydro. Angling it back tends to raise the nose. This all comes at the cost of adding oversteering characteristics with it forward and understeering with it back. Personally, I think moving the rudder other than square, is trying to fix another problem by putting in a correction with +/- traits somewhere else.

[BHChieftain]

Well, I've been running this boat for a couple of months, and I must say I am very impressed. Hull is very stable, looks great, and I love the new motor. My boating buddy also has been running one, the only mod we made is a new turn fin (curved, stiffer) which holds it better in the corners.

4s, stock prop (sharpened), hitting 48mph


https://youtu.be/GPBWVcFla0o

Chief

[BHChieftain]

If you wanted to know what happens when you remove a turn fin from a hydro...


https://youtu.be/ZQwgGM3CS6g

Chief

[MADRCER]

I like the added yellow vinyl on the boat Chief! It looks good! I turned the fin in on mine just a tad and it helped in the corners. With an abc prop from Chris on 5s I was able to run full throttle laps at 59-60mph. This boat turns very well.

[BHChieftain]

60 on 5s is pretty darn good. Which ABC prop are you running?
Chief

[MADRCER]

Thanks! I was running one of my 1716-17-45 props on 5s.

[CraigP]

I love that prop, I run it on my boat, just in the low 60’s

[BHChieftain]

I'll give that prop a go on 4s. I'm at 48mph on stock, trying to break 50 on 4s.
Chief

[TRUCKPULL]

Chief
With the stock motor from a UL-19, I run a 1815-17-45 on my limited Sport Hydro, on 4S

Larry

[ray schrauwen]

Chief
With the stock motor from a UL-19, I run a 1815-17-45 on my limited Sport Hydro, on 4S

Larry

What prop would you suggest for that same motor in my RSX 310 rigger LArry?

Sorry I had to cut the call short tonight. I am unpacked and ready to crash now.

[eric113]

I ran 1816 prop on my UL19 for heat racing. My boat liked it. This last summer with 80-90* water temps. My motor came back at 130-140*

[TRUCKPULL]

What prop would you suggest for that same motor in my RSX 310 rigger LArry?

Sorry I had to cut the call short tonight. I am unpacked and ready to crash now.

ABC - H5 -rigger prop with some lift. 45mm -1.5 pitch
Grim Racer- AQUB9768 45mm - 1.5 pitch -with lift
The two above are basically the same Prop, The Grim has a little thicker hub, therefore a little stronger
or a
ABC - 1815-17-45(2) CLL with some extra cup, this would be less lift with a higher pitch. This may be a better choice with the shoes on the rear of the rigger
or a
ABC - 1816-17-45(2) CLL with some extra cup, (Check the heat with this one.)

Larry

[ray schrauwen]

..............edit off topic

[MADRCER]

I'll give that prop a go on 4s. I'm at 48mph on stock, trying to break 50 on 4s.
Chief

Chief, I saw your video and congrats on obtaining your goal of 50mph+ on 4s! 51mph not too shabby with that 1716. Good Job!

[MADRCER]

I wanted to share another video of my latest run of my UL-19. This run I only got 73mph from the data logger and 72mph from the gps unit. The boat is all stock except for another spectacular ABC 1716 prop from Chris! Thanks again for all your great work! Also a shout out goes to Travis (kfxguy) for the Awesome dependable flex cable.

158172 158173


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2oFKQKRYms&feature=youtu.be

[BHChieftain]

Chief, I saw your video and congrats on obtaining your goal of 50mph+ on 4s! 51mph not too shabby with that 1716. Good Job!

Thanks! Appreciate the tip on the prop,
Chief

[BHChieftain]

I wanted to share another video of my latest run of my UL-19. This run I only got 73mph from the data logger and 72mph from the gps unit. The boat is all stock except for another spectacular ABC 1716 prop from Chris! Thanks again for all your great work! Also a shout out goes to Travis (kfxguy) for the Awesome dependable flex cable.


Wow! Impressive!
Chief

[vinnyp]

Great run there Mark. Seems you quickly got a handle on running that UL...

[dasboata]

solid Pass Mark great job Bro

[jerry123]

Looks good, The motor that comes with boat will need to be replaced with a legal motor to conform with namba p limited hydro or they might include the new motor?

Jerry

[M3Bluegsr]

Here is my UL-19 in action

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[jerry123]

Did you use the stock motor that comes with boat? I was told for namba p limited hydro I have to use the motors listed in the rule book. What batteries did you use?

Thanks. Jerry

[MADRCER]

Thanks! Appreciate the tip on the prop,
Chief
No problem! It's about time I returned the favor to you.


Wow! Impressive!
Chief
Thanks Chief!


Great run there Mark. Seems you quickly got a handle on running that UL...
Thanks Vinny!


solid Pass Mark great job Bro
Thanks Chris! ��


Looks good, The motor that comes with boat will need to be replaced with a legal motor to conform with namba p limited hydro or they might include the new motor?
Jerry

Thanks Jerry! My boat was all stock except for the prop in that run. I'm not sure on the legalities of the stock motor for spec racing this season. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[MADRCER]

Here was a 52.4mph 4s run from yesterday with a 1716 prop from Chris for anyone interested as well.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-pBAuOVWJTA

[MADRCER]

Here is my UL-19 running 5s stock at 59.3mph with a 1716 by dasboata. I just wanted to try 5s and didn't do too bad for the windy conditions. It may have another mph or two in it with calmer water.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8aRT9Y5Cd4&feature=youtu.be

[JPT44]

How does one get ahold of dasboata in order to get some props? PM here on the boards?

[MADRCER]

PM Him on here or it's best to email him at dasboata@aol.com If you're looking for abc props most of them are out of stock but he has a backorder list that hopefully should be filled soon.

[JPT44]

Great thanks! I pm'd him, so hopefully will hear from him soon, and once he fills all his orders.

John

[jerry123]

Boat runs great!! Where did u get the turn fin? Did u have to make a new bracket for it? What lipo's/brand are u using?

Take care. Jerry

[eric113]

Boat runs great!! Where did u get the turn fin? Did u have to make a new bracket for it? What lipo's/brand are u using?

Take care. Jerry

Jerry, are you talking to someone specificity? If you are, hit the "reply with quote" on their post so they know you are.

[MADRCER]

Boat runs great!! Where did u get the turn fin? Did u have to make a new bracket for it? What lipo's/brand are u using?

Take care. Jerry

Thanks Jerry. I replied to your PM. Good luck with it.

[eric113]

Thanks Jerry. I replied to your PM. Good luck with it.

I been meaning to tell you, if you aren’t planning on racing or doing oval time laps. You really don’t need a curve turn fin. Stock is fine for straight lining. I do heat racing and needed the curve turn fin.

[Njpp21@aol.com]

This UL 19 is my first ever Hydro, forgive me if I sound a bit uneducated here. It’s because I am lol. This boat is designed only for RTO? (Right Turn Only) Correct? I really don’t want to damage anything when it’s only been in the water for 7 minutes lol. Thanks in advance guys.

[TRUCKPULL]

Correct - Right Turn Only - at speed.
You can turn Left at slower speeds.

Larry

[Njpp21@aol.com]

Thank you Larry

[Darin Jordan]

Finally got some video of my "Race Prepped" UL-19 in action. Updates are pretty basic... Mojo Racing Sport 21 sized Turn-Fin, OSE Carbon Interior motor tray, OSE Flex Cable and Octura Coupler. Spektrum digital Hi-Torque Servo. Basic tuning.

THIS is how the UL-19 is intended to be used... :)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yh4J_DW0c0U

[tc11]

What does a flashing red LED on the speed control mean? Cant find it in any manual. Thanks!

[tc11]

Thanks!

[kevin11]

Darin, long time no see! Found a club in Spokane to race with. We have pretty much a class of all UL-19s. Would you mind telling us what prop you are running in the video above and if you are running 4S, 5S or 6S?

Thanks,
Kevin

[NEDan]

Trying to help a friend.
His new completely stock UL19 is running into what appears to be LVC limp mode 30-45 seconds into his run.
He is running 2, 2s 60c batteries, 4s. Nothing is hot and it rockets away at first then slows to a crawl which makes it hard to get back due to the submarine-ing when traveling so slow. He's tried other batteries.
With good batteries, good connectors, and esc parameters verified what is your first thought that comes to mind?
Is there any known out of the box issues with stock UL's resembling this he should be aware of?
He is about to replace the esc and motor.
I think there might be a better less extreme solution than that.
What conditions cause this?
Any help, guesses appreciated.

[fweasel]

Trying to help a friend.
His new completely stock UL19 is running into what appears to be LVC limp mode 30-45 seconds into his run.
He is running 2, 2s 60c batteries, 4s. Nothing is hot and it rockets away at first then slows to a crawl which makes it hard to get back due to the submarine-ing when traveling so slow. He's tried other batteries.
With good batteries, good connectors, and esc parameters verified what is your first thought that comes to mind?
Is there any known out of the box issues with stock UL's resembling this he should be aware of?
He is about to replace the esc and motor.
I think there might be a better less extreme solution than that.
What conditions cause this?
Any help, guesses appreciated.

Have him contact Horizon tech support. They should be able to assist with sending him replacement parts if deemed necessary. I just read about a similar situation with another new UL-19. They first replaced the ESC, but the issue continued. They then swapped the motor, and the issue was resolved.

The two of you can do some initial troubleshooting looking for conditions that might cause the ESC to shut down. Because you've said that you've eliminated settings and batteries, I would look at driveline alignment. Is the flex cable rubbing on the stuffing tube as it exits before the motor collet? Is there a 3mm gap between the drive dog and strut? Does the flex cable slip into the collet easily, indicating proper motor alignment?

[NEDan]

Have him contact Horizon tech support. They should be able to assist with sending him replacement parts if deemed necessary. I just read about a similar situation with another new UL-19. They first replaced the ESC, but the issue continued. They then swapped the motor, and the issue was resolved.

The two of you can do some initial troubleshooting looking for conditions that might cause the ESC to shut down. Because you've said that you've eliminated settings and batteries, I would look at driveline alignment. Is the flex cable rubbing on the stuffing tube as it exits before the motor collet? Is there a 3mm gap between the drive dog and strut? Does the flex cable slip into the collet easily, indicating proper motor alignment?

Seems that's the right route.

[Thetrums17]

I have an Almirola built P-Hydro and a Delta Force Pathfinder P-Limited Cat. I am looking for a Glass ARTR competitive P-Sport Hydro. Can you get a Proboat UL19 with correct motor and 4s parallel batts to be competitive in this class? or does anyone have suggestions. I do not like to build and would prefer a glass hull. Maybe someone has something real nice for sale. Live in Lakeland Fl. Thanks Chris.

[Bwhitmore42]

I apologize for not understanding the process here to post a question but I just registered because I am brand new to the RC Boat owners and I have a question to post(not sure where to post).
After several runs with my Traxxas Spartan this last attempt the reverse has stopped working, not sure how to fix this??