PDA

View Full Version : 3D Printing Parts for my Revolt



Hydrocarbon82
04-26-2017, 02:07 PM
A while back I got a 3D Printer for mostly business-related reasons (or so I tell myself lol). I got a used Aquacraft Revolt 30 that was mostly stock, but I had some other gear to transfer to the boat. The interesting thing about these parts is their weight - less than 1/3 an ounce for all of them. The orange is PLA and the black is PETG.

First was to find a way to stuff a 150A Flycolor ESC (essentially an OSE Raider) into this cramped boat w/o moving the battery tray. The first pic shows the final wedge holding up the ESC (tape for the hull, velcro & zipties for esc) and the small test wedge above for reference. The 10awg wires and the wedge lips keep the zipties in place, which are to keep the ESC from wiggling.

http://i.imgur.com/iaQ9zl3.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/wttwGoM.png

Next was the servo tie bar. I found a file for a Traxxas battery bar then resized it to fit. The original mount relied mostly on wedging the servo between the uprights, this keeps it really stiff.

http://i.imgur.com/t8UG4jD.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/JmBLVVL.png

Last was the antenna mount. The previous owner had a good idea with a horizontal tube glued under the lip, but it was too easy to accidentally rip it off. My solution was a glorified base & tube with a hole at the bottom. It's tapered to fit a FlySky tube, has a curved entry for a no-headache wire feeding, and a 30 degree base to match the hull. I tried modding some FPV Copter antenna mounts, but decided to make it from scratch. It's VERY tedious, but each model teaches me a lot more about the Blender software I use.

http://i.imgur.com/bFfTDZw.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/HyxbBBc.png

lt130th
04-26-2017, 02:22 PM
That antenna mount is pretty slick. I hate external mounts sticking up through the hull. I have always tried to manufacture an internal antenna holder using carbon fiber plate and rubber grommets. Have you thought about an internal antenna mount that would essentially be the same as flipping an external, through-hull mount upside down, and mounting it from the inside...only instead of any threads coming through the exterior of the hull, simply glue the mount on the inside? What I'm picturing in my head ressembles an orange traffic cone, but with a through-hole the diameter of the antenna tube. Glue the base to tge underside of the hull deck, and run only a clear tube up through the exterior. That seems to me to be the most imvisible antenna solution. 3D printing is a game-changer. Nice work.

Tamelesstgr
04-26-2017, 02:50 PM
Love the ingenuity in designing your own solution. How expensive is the material used in the printer?

Mike Caruso
04-26-2017, 02:53 PM
Very nice parts that makes what if?.............fun because its I MADE THIS

longballlumber
04-26-2017, 02:58 PM
Nice... I recently purchased a small filament printer and have many ideas boat related. What glue type are you using between the boat and the PLA? I assume they are stating in place OK? I have been concerned about getting a good joint between the PLA and the epoxy I use.

Later

Mxkid261
04-26-2017, 04:18 PM
Where is WI are you? I'm in between Madison and Milwaukee (Lake Country area)

Hydrocarbon82
04-26-2017, 05:26 PM
Mxkid, I'm roughly the same area. I do my boating on the west side of Waukesha County. I'm a bit spoiled since my parent's lake has almost no weeds and the other areas see regular de-weeding.

lt130th, I think I understand your design - it still has a small bit sticking thru the hull? It would be possible. I picked this design because it was easy to mount, kept the antenna upright (Tx and Rx should be pointing in the same direction), is a few MM's from the hatch roof, and didn't require any drilling/sanding. Mounting it under the top-side of the hull wouldn't be any different.

As far as glue epoxy should work with PLA and PETG, paricularly if you have it flow over a lip at the base. Most plastic RC parts are made from ABS, so I'd recommend that if you worry. PLA can be lightly sanded for more grip and doesn't gum up like many plastics. I think the only worry with PLA is it can absorb a little moisture & therefore swell to some degree, but most hulls flex more than that from torque, waves, flips, etc.

For these parts I just used 3M double-stick tape (grey for automotive molding) and it has crazy grip. When I pulled the ESC off my other boat (1x2" chunk), I used 2 full-sized screw drivers to get it off & feared I'd crack the case. I sanded the wedge & cleaned the hull under it but didn't even clean the residue off the antenna base (in a hurry) and it is really stuck!


So far I've been impressed even with the no-name filament my QIDI printer came with. I printed some rock crawler beadlock wheels based on 3-pc Axial design - they are holding up and have a lot more "structure" than the originals despite the same weight. The trick is the parts are mostly hollow with internal honeycomb bracing (% of bracing can be adjusted).

lt130th
04-26-2017, 05:36 PM
lt130th, I think I understand your design - it still has a small bit sticking thru the hull? It would be possible. I picked this design because it was easy to mount, kept the antenna upright (Tx and Rx should be pointing in the same direction), is a few MM's from the hatch roof, and didn't require any drilling/sanding. Mounting it under the top-side of the hull wouldn't be any different.

Oh, I didn't realize your antenna was internal. All of my boats have carbon inlays and carbon on the hatch so I have to get the antennas through the hull, to the top side. I WISH I could keep ALL the antennas on the inside.

Hydrocarbon82
04-26-2017, 05:57 PM
I get your idea better now. My pic is misleading due to how I cropped it. Your idea is simply puts the base just under the deck with the antenna whip passing into the open. All that would be needed is a larger base for the epoxy to grab. You could epoxy the base & tube then either seal & secure the antenna with silicone, or use a cap & internal ziptie to secure the antenna.

Here's a design I had found that you'd just have to invert the tube placement on: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:585395

If you really want to minimize an exterior antenna, you could just find a small grommet with a "zero" diameter then leave the antenna whip direct exposed. Only the last 28mm creates the signal on a 2.4ghz antenna, which is the silver part under a clear tube. The remainder is a grounded coax shield. You could even pass it out and seal it under a decal if crazy range isn't needed. You won't have perfect reception at 1/2 mile with a fluttering or horizontal antenna, but certainly more than the old skool FM radios.

Hydrocarbon82
04-26-2017, 06:03 PM
Here's a better pic of the antenna height and an overall shot:

http://i.imgur.com/O75NVuU.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/un7mPFd.jpg

lt130th
04-26-2017, 06:06 PM
I get your idea better now. My pic is misleading due to how I cropped it. Your idea is simply puts the base just under the deck with the antenna whip passing into the open. All that would be needed is a larger base for the epoxy to grab. You could epoxy the base & tube then either seal & secure the antenna with silicone, or use a cap & internal ziptie to secure the antenna.

Here's a design I had found that you'd just have to invert the tube placement on: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:585395

If you really want to minimize an exterior antenna, you could just find a small grommet with a "zero" diameter then leave the antenna whip direct exposed. Only the last 28mm creates the signal on a 2.4ghz antenna, which is the silver part under a clear tube. The remainder is a grounded coax shield. You could even pass it out and seal it under a decal if crazy range isn't needed. You won't have perfect reception at 1/2 mile with a fluttering or horizontal antenna, but certainly more than the old skool FM radios.

Yeah, that would do the same thing. I usually do something like this on the interior...

151256

...but a little poly base would be so much easier. I only leave about 1.5in of antenna tube outside the hull, and let that last 28mm of antenna wire exit the top. Sometimes, not even a tube...I put a rubber cap on the aluminum antenna tube base, and pass the end of the antenna wire through it.

lt130th
04-26-2017, 06:10 PM
There are a lot of guys over on RCGroups.com that post 3D printing services. You send them a model and they'll print as many as you want for a set rate. Maybe you can jump in on that venture to help justify the business purpose for the printer.

Hydrocarbon82
04-26-2017, 07:48 PM
So ya or nah? I figure a bit of silicone in the tube with the antenna pulled thru would both seal it & hold the wire in place. The upper hole could be reduced depending on tube size (or bare antenna).

http://i.imgur.com/POk1wLF.png

lt130th
04-26-2017, 07:57 PM
That would do it, too. I'm sure there is some part in existence already that is very similar or would work, but finding it is the hard part. I wonder why everyone drills big holes in the top of the hull for an aluminum antenna tube base, rather than something like this.

Hydrocarbon82
04-26-2017, 08:08 PM
Only thing I can guess is it's a carry-over from when we needed a yard of copper for 27mHz AM radios. It needed to carry quite a load at speed.

http://cdn.leanblog.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/dangerous.jpeg


Here's a pic of my Shockwave 26's stock mount. I've only had the tube fly off once despite many wipe-outs and lost 2 rubber caps last year. I ran it for a good hour nearly each week for 6 months. This is the most you really need sticking out of a hull for 2.4gHz, anything more would only help get over ocean waves.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vy4L6G5X6D3maIcS2U8uYxIKnP9b5JQMY61f5RUMSCUsY3P-Kd62FaW2693OWNGEbsj_poUMgn9QHUeJBczHKjHigWF7yV16-rGSyhhE-a4OciJlfkYJYEqMiEklSdBDE1c0Yc6LHrE39d3Kr_EqkIaWk-xJJq9ge3CXFpRV2PcRNvD7M5g3h8DXaeHOgOmAxU-7kNNj-TlcXomUCPoURZ-zGQaaX5L3BEkVHLrPSo6C5YQruabaDh2bUvKN8A1RQjXB3p_Md flCULgG1SQpjSFKmXUkklPUJNYkMUyq4XmA5n1D89t9QXX4Wk5 JoQ5iktsdK1NUKwIQrAoc9TWdSledaLHpF95IGh8rzpg9fIetl UCRDJvP01NNQLrmXVM0OF6DpQh7ZncZfbQQ2cmgnfhpTYoPS2T 7z-bEg_WJOerT7-YcAB8IBO5M9pLndMGAzXZ4YkwSuZWE51q-IGX4Q1133CrwZsiNjol4a3dh7um3Uq4Zem5a9eSfTiEDh0i725 2MD3CHpYeaSW6Zt6g_ihsOZXo6MVwNSmTdCKvIhyLuN2ZrFFLU 70mr7GfKcjiCRJCzo7zeycclqIz_UeCv6SUA5jG3gthgRCOeTs oIdmv-ZcwwnhrE=w1024-h768-no

Mxkid261
04-26-2017, 08:40 PM
Mxkid, I'm roughly the same area. I do my boating on the west side of Waukesha County. I'm a bit spoiled since my parent's lake has almost no weeds and the other areas see regular de-weeding.


Very cool! I live right in Merton. I keep my jetski at family friends on Lake Keesus. Your little antenna mount is awesome I'd love a few of those for my 1/10 buggies Lol.

Hydrocarbon82
04-27-2017, 12:46 AM
Small world! I used to work near Songbird Hills years back.

If you guys want I could make a few. I could make one with a flat base for buggies and a boat version with an adjustable base.

Mxkid261
04-27-2017, 08:28 AM
Small world! I used to work near Songbird Hills years back.

If you guys want I could make a few. I could make one with a flat base for buggies and a boat version with an adjustable base.

Yes small world indeed haha! I would love a handful if you could whip some up. A few of each would be great. PM me if you want. We may have to meet up and run sometime after all this crappy weather passes.

ray schrauwen
04-27-2017, 12:02 PM
Nice... I recently purchased a small filament printer and have many ideas boat related. What glue type are you using between the boat and the PLA? I assume they are stating in place OK? I have been concerned about getting a good joint between the PLA and the epoxy I use.

Later

Marine GOOP or UHU glue may do the trick.