Zelos 36 - More Noob Questions

[mikiek]

After my 2nd outing I figured it was time to relube the flex shafts. While disassembling everything I have noticed that one of the stuffing tubes (the outer brass tube) is not perfectly straight. It's got a slight curve to it. Not bad but it is noticeable. I suppose that's why we have the flex cable. Can't think of an easy way to straighten the tube. Maybe it's no big deal?

Instructions say to look for water ejecting from the cooling system. Still haven't seen that. I do see water in the tubing. Is that good enough? No parts were particularly hot.

Instructions mention calibrating the transmitter. I understand how to, but why?

Same question on programming the ESC?

I have not yet started to make any adjustments yet and I'm still running with only 2 3S batteries for now. I would think prop adjustments would vary based on battery configuration - 2 3S vs 4 3S vs 2 6S. Do you guys usually stick to one battery configuration?

Lastly, when I flipped the boat on my first outing water got inside. I realize most of the electronics are waterproof but how about the batteries?

Thanks in advance...

[fweasel]

For what it's worth, you caould have just added this to your existing thread. Here goes...

The stuffing tubes are supposed to have bends in them. As you said, that's why the cable is flexible.

Some boats are easier than others to see the water coming out the cooling outlets while running. The real issue is a blockage. If you can blow through the two outlets, one on either side, you're clear. It's been recommended to scrape out the paint from the inlets on the bottom of the hull and file a tear drop shape in front of them to improve water intake.

When you setup a new radio to an ESC, you need to calibrate the throttle range so neutral/idle and full throttle are defined limits. Without it, its possible to not be ever running full throttle and your boat will be slower as a result.

Strut adjustments are effected by center of gravity, which is affected to how many, how heavy and where you place your batteries. Unless you're upping the voltage, more batteries in parallel wouldn't change what prop you're going to run. It will net you longer run times and a heavier boat. I ran mostly on 2 3S packs last seasons for budget reasons. I only purchased additional packs to make even sets of four late in the season. The added weight completely changed the ride attitude and I ran out of good weather before I had time to tune the struts accordingly.

Buy a can of Corrosion X. It will be your friend. I routinely blow out everything with compressed air after I get home from the lake. If the batteries got wet at all, I blow out all the connectors, the balance leads, and even run air under the shrink wrap. If I deep six a boat, I'll spray the corrosion-x into the motors and lubricate the bearings with appropriate oil. Servo and ESC receiver connectors get a shot of it too.

[mikiek]

Good stuff as always fweasel. Thank you.

Wow, shut down for the season - that's a foreign concept in S.E. Texas. That does make me wonder, does cold lake water have an effect on performance of the electronics? Lake water in my usual haunt can get down in the 40s in winter. Not cold by your standards, but I imagine all the components stay pretty cool.

[Mxkid261]

Good stuff as always fweasel. Thank you.

Wow, shut down for the season - that's a foreign concept in S.E. Texas. That does make me wonder, does cold lake water have an effect on performance of the electronics? Lake water in my usual haunt can get down in the 40s in winter. Not cold by your standards, but I imagine all the components stay pretty cool.

Cold water = cold electronics. No difference in "performance". We ran the day the ice melted here in S.E. Wisconsin in single digit temps, nothing even got warm that day. Now about a month later water temps are up probably in the 50's in the smaller ponds and ambient temps have been as high as 70, so things are starting to run warmer.

[mikiek]

Hey everyone - got some more questions - one big one really. I have been researching more about the various components of my boat, particularly motor, esc and props. By individual pieces I understand some about each. What I can't get my head wrapped around is how you know what pieces can be combined and what cannot be combined. I see so many posts here where someone wants some particular motor and the replies are "with that prop you can't do this" or "that esc will burn up your motor unless you get a different prop". How do you know?

Where can I find some general information on how to piece together a "drivetrain"? I'm not looking to upgrade anything right now, but I do want to understand it.

[Mxkid261]

What do you mean "piece together" a drivetrain? Are you talking specific to this boat? The setup in my 28" rigger would smoke instantly in my 29" mono which uses the same m445 prop. Someone that races might have a different setup than someone else that just zips around the lake with longer run times theres a handful of factors ya know

[fweasel]

Most of it revolves around the electrical and mechanical limitations of the various components. Motors, for example, need to be physically the correct size to fit in the boat, rated for a specific RPM determined by the prop you will run and size/quantity of batteries, i.e. voltage. The amount of current the motor/prop combination will draw is where the amperage rating on your ESC comes into play. Prop size is often determined by motor Kv and battery voltage needs as well as what the hull can handle.

That only scratches the surface. The intricacies and nuances are what separate the successful veterans from the newcomers.

[RandyatBBY]

Most of it revolves around the electrical and mechanical limitations of the various components. Motors, for example, need to be physically the correct size to fit in the boat, rated for a specific RPM determined by the prop you will run and size/quantity of batteries, i.e. voltage. The amount of current the motor/prop combination will draw is where the amperage rating on your ESC comes into play. Prop size is often determined by motor Kv and battery voltage needs as well as what the hull can handle.

That only scratches the surface. The intricacies and nuances are what separate the successful veterans from the newcomers.

Well put.

[mikiek]

Mxkid261 - that was just my terminology for adding/replacing one component with another. Or for that matter, just starting from scratch. It's obvious even to me that one can't walk into a hobby shop and buy the first motor, esc and prop that he sees and hope to be successful. So what numbers are you looking for to know that this motor goes with that prop.

fweasel - assuming a start from scratch, would you choose a motor first then add on based on that? Again, is it listed somewhere that prop 'x123' would work on a 1750kv motor? Or do I perpetually have to ask the smart guys here what to do :smile:

[fweasel]

My best advice is to slow down, walk before you run. Stop creating ways to spend more money on this boat and just run it as it was designed. In between weekend trips to the lake, read, read, read. There are metric tons of useful information on this and other RC forums from members more than willing to share their knowledge and experience about this hobby. As you educate yourself, you will better understand some of these now foreign concepts, how they interact with one another, and when its appropriate to change them for your benefit.

In light of your recent electrical mishap, I suggest you replace the ESC's with stock units so that everything is plug and play. Run the boat, have fun, and start tinkering with it one variable at a time.

[mikiek]

Thanks for the "slap in the face". It's just what I needed. I'll come back down to earth and just run the boat - which is all I wanted to do anyway. Problem is it's been laid up more that it has been available. I did order the stock ESC replacements - no point in potentially introducing a new problem by messing with the formula. They won't be here until next week.

Thank you fweasel!