Just joined the MC crew!

[Prodrvr]

Hey guys, the boat showed up today and looks good. I had to adjust the water pick up and the strut. I have a few questions.

Regarding batteries, is lighter better, or is the weight needed to keep it balanced at speed?
I see it runs on two 2s lipo's. I don't have any. Can I just cut the series harness off the esc and just parallel my two 4s lipo's?
On 4s, which prop will give the most mph without cooking everything?
And last question for now, do any of the stock components have to be upgraded immediately?

[JJ1TRXSAton]

Awesome. I'm having a great time with my MC. I'm lucky enough to take my boats to 2 different local lakes. One has more chop and wind than the other... I use the 4S in parallel with some adjustments when I go to the lake with chop & wind to help from blowovers... I use the 2S in series with different adjustments at the lake that has less chop and hardly any wind... Lots of adjusting and tuning to get your MC to plane good on the water... That's just part of it. What works for me may not work out for you... You'll understand the characteristics of your boat the more times you get to take it to the lake and tune... Have fun...

[Doby]

When I race mine in windy conditions, I use a single 8000 Mah Zippy 4S pack placed on the left side. (It really does fit!). The weight on the one side counteracts the prop torque nicely.

There is no need to update the stock components.

[Prodrvr]

Sounds good guys! I already ordered a new prop...I'm not even going to run it with the plastic one. One thing I did notice is that the motor shaft is not perfectly in line with the flex cable. The motor shaft is a touch higher. Now do I make an attempt to bend the stuffing tube up, or do I somehow lower the motor?

[Prodrvr]

Ok, motor mount lowered, shaft lines up perfect now.

[JJ1TRXSAton]

Yes the motor mount is very easy to bend. I had to do the same to line up the flex and motor...
Also the stock flexshaft for the MC isnt the greatest. Ive read many posts where they have broken and the prop is lost. Of course my first time out with the MC and the prop shaft breaks off with my new GR 42 x 55 prop. I kept the broken flex as a reminder. So keep that in mind. Maybe keep the stock prop and flex for spare / backup, and get the OSE flex for the MC and install ur new prop on that 1...

[Prodrvr]

The one from OSE is out of stock, however it's available from Kintec. I didn't bend the motor bracket, I relocated it.

[JJ1TRXSAton]

Oh my mount to stuffing tube wasn;t that far off where I had to relocate my mount. I only needed like a 1mm adjustment down... Let the prop/ flex turn much easier...

[Prodrvr]

I had to lower the bracket 1/8"

[Prodrvr]

Can a 3/16" flex cable fit if I removed the teflon liner?

[Mxkid261]

Can a 3/16" flex cable fit if I removed the teflon liner?

Yes

[Prodrvr]

Yes

Sweet thanks!!

[Prodrvr]

Got her wet for the first time this morning. It runs well, but nowhere near fast enough. Came back in after 5 minutes of full throttle running and the inside was bone dry...awesome! Now I can safely use my gps in it without fear of getting water in it. I'll have to establish a baseline on it next run.

[Prodrvr]

Here's my baseline...all stock using 2 - 4s 4000 25C

Amps: 33.26
Watts: 534.8
Mph: 31.9

[roofintrash]

What prop were you running? Mine,bone stock other than an m445 prop topped out at 45mph. I probably could have got a little more out of it but couldn't leave well enough alone with that motor mount. Ran it for the first time yesterday gutted and switched up and got 51 on a not very good day wind wise. Love this boat.

[Prodrvr]

Stock plastic prop. Have a cnc prop on the way. Didn't touch the rudder. The bottom of the strut is 1/8" up from bottom of sponsons. I can't believe just a prop change will gain me 13 mph.

[roofintrash]

Stock plastic prop. Have a cnc prop on the way. Didn't touch the rudder. The bottom of the strut is 1/8" up from bottom of sponsons. I can't believe just a prop change will gain me 13 mph.

The prop change makes it a different boat. You'll be grinning.

[Mxkid261]

I agree the prop should really wake it up but I never ran mine with stock electrics. It does about 50 with a 1800kv 3674 and m445.

[Prodrvr]

I'm thinking of swapping out the stock motor for a SSS 3674 2075Kv and run it on a 5 or 6 cell. Already have a Seaking 120A esc on the way. Now I can't wait to try the prop that's on the way.

[Prodrvr]

I'm still debating about cutting out the tub and doing a cf interior.

[roofintrash]

I'm thinking of swapping out the stock motor for a SSS 3674 2075Kv and run it on a 5 or 6 cell. Already have a Seaking 120A esc on the way. Now I can't wait to try the prop that's on the way.

If you go this route,I would definitely cut out the tub and beef up the inside. When I decided to do mine it was mainly to get rid of the crappy motor mount, but I also wanted a little more speed without being too hard on the electronics. I went with a TP3675 1935kv, Raider 150,still on 4s. The motor and esc temps were both around 100 degrees and I picked up mph without breaking a sweat. I feel better about it if it does blow off the water because of the inlay. Really stiffened it up. The other thing I noticed was how much better it handled with the batteries down in the sponsons. It seemed to stay settled down in the corners so much better,that alone made the change worthwhile. With the motor, battery combo you're wanting you will probably hurt the stock hull in a tumble, as your speeds will be higher. Make sure you beef up the inside of the hatch also so you don't turn it inside out in a tumble. Just my 2c

[Mxkid261]

This hull really isnt made to take a hard hit. Ive seen people have the side seams split just from a crash at 50. The tub probably adds some rigidity to the chassis. If you take it out I would pour epoxy in tips/transom and lay some strips of cloth down the side seams, and bunch of pool noodle under the front deck to avoid flex. The tub has proven itself well thats why Ive left mine alone. Tony (propperchopper) is going on like this 6th race season with the same stock MC hull, a lot of races with that hull Lol. I've never had my motor mount move but I added aluminum and larger screws to it before I ever ran it.

[Prodrvr]

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll plan on removing the tub.

[Prodrvr]

Here's my next question...is cutting out the tub a straight forward deal, or are there some tricks to it?

[roofintrash]

I just marked a line 1/4" down into the tub and carefully cut it with a dremel cutoff wheel. Once cut, I used a pair of tin snips here and there on the sides until it flexed enough to come out. Took as long to mark it as to remove it.

[Prodrvr]

I just marked a line 1/4" down into the tub and carefully cut it with a dremel cutoff wheel. Once cut, I used a pair of tin snips here and there on the sides until it flexed enough to come out. Took as long to mark it as to remove it.

Very good, thanks Rick!

[roofintrash]

Very good, thanks Rick!

If you have a small pair of scissors like r/c car body type, use them to cut up to the stuffing tube. When I made the last snip, all the glue and sealant popped right off so clean up was a breeze.

[Prodrvr]

If you have a small pair of scissors like r/c car body type, use them to cut up to the stuffing tube. When I made the last snip, all the glue and sealant popped right off so clean up was a breeze.

Yeah, I have both the straight and curved lexan body scissors. I have enough cf fabric and epoxy from another boat to do this one, so I should just get to it. You know, just in handling the hatch a few times, those silly cheap plastic stiffners that they hot glued in, popped right off. I want to lay some cf on the hatch, but I still need to use my gps. Should I leave a "window" of fiberglass so the gps will still work?

[roofintrash]

I ran a 2" strip of cf around the outside of the hatch and JB welded a couple carbon rods in place of the cheesy stock stiffeners. Garmin gps worked fine Saturday.

[Prodrvr]

Awesome! I happen to have a few 6mm cf rods sitting here.

[brian340]

Have not had mine long but have had chance to run some packs. though 4 back to back runs between a cool down,couple drops of water but that may have come off hatch cover,I did post a YouTube vid of a run with some venom 5000mah 30c packs,So far I'm really liking this boat got about 12 runs on it and Just running stock prop with OSE flex cable and yes my motor mount was off as well,not tried the CNC x440 prop yet,did move the strut up a bit.And I lied when I posted would be happy with a 40 50 mph boat HA.anyway enjoy your MC I'm lovn mine right now.

[Prodrvr]

Nooo....50 mph not fast enough!

[NativePaul]

Is the tub glued to the tunnel? Do you lose much or any stiffness when you cut the tub out? I guess if it is not glued to the tunnel you won't lose much if any stiffness.

I know you guys are removing the tub to make more room for more power, and stiffening it up with a layer of carbon in the bottom, but I am thinking of getting one and doing it for different reasons.

I ran a Mean Machine on 4s1p for 5 minute races in my last club and it was OK, but my new club runs for 6 mins, and my MM is a typical terrible Aeromarine heavy moulding, I kind of want to splash the MM and make a light one to race with, but while I would end up with the perfect boat, it would be a lot of work and it would cost a fair bit. For about the same cost and a lot less effort I could buy a MC hull (which I hear are pretty thin and light), and cut the tub out of it to save further weight, I am only after mid 40s and my pond is wadeable all over, so I need stiffness to run well, not strength so much.

[roofintrash]

Is the tub glued to the tunnel? Do you lose much or any stiffness when you cut the tub out? I guess if it is not glued to the tunnel you won't lose much if any stiffness.

I know you guys are removing the tub to make more room for more power, and stiffening it up with a layer of carbon in the bottom, but I am thinking of getting one and doing it for different reasons.

I ran a Mean Machine on 4s1p for 5 minute races in my last club and it was OK, but my new club runs for 6 mins, and my MM is a typical terrible Aeromarine heavy moulding, I kind of want to splash the MM and make a light one to race with, but while I would end up with the perfect boat, it would be a lot of work and it would cost a fair bit. For about the same cost and a lot less effort I could buy a MC hull (which I hear are pretty thin and light), and cut the tub out of it to save further weight, I am only after mid 40s and my pond is wadeable all over, so I need stiffness to run well, not strength so much.

The only place the tub and hull were joined was at the stuffing tube,and servo mount, and that was just extra dripped sealant. The single layer of carbon really got rid of the flex and didn't add anymore weight than the original tub. Being able to put the batteries down in the sponsons really seems to have improved the handling,especially in the corners. I didn't go crazy with motor size because I really wanted it to perform about the same as stock without working as hard. TP 3640 1935kv and same m445 prop gives me 51mph (stock was 45) with more available with additional setup changes I'm sure. Best part is the motor and esc barely get warm after a run. That's what I was shooting for.

[Mxkid261]

Is the tub glued to the tunnel? Do you lose much or any stiffness when you cut the tub out? I guess if it is not glued to the tunnel you won't lose much if any stiffness.

I know you guys are removing the tub to make more room for more power, and stiffening it up with a layer of carbon in the bottom, but I am thinking of getting one and doing it for different reasons.

I ran a Mean Machine on 4s1p for 5 minute races in my last club and it was OK, but my new club runs for 6 mins, and my MM is a typical terrible Aeromarine heavy moulding, I kind of want to splash the MM and make a light one to race with, but while I would end up with the perfect boat, it would be a lot of work and it would cost a fair bit. For about the same cost and a lot less effort I could buy a MC hull (which I hear are pretty thin and light), and cut the tub out of it to save further weight, I am only after mid 40s and my pond is wadeable all over, so I need stiffness to run well, not strength so much.

Mine weighs like 4 lbs without batteries for reference.

[roofintrash]

Just went to weigh mine and when I plugged in my scale it let the magic smoke out. Dammit man. Whole room stinks now. LOL

[NativePaul]

Was it as floppy as all hell before you put the carbon in roofintrash?

I weighed my MM and it is 2038g 4lb 8oz without batteries, so 2598g or 5lb 12oz RTR. I will be shooting for 2kg or 4.4lb RTR, which is 1440g or 3lb 3oz without batteries, think that is doable with a stripped out MC? Do you have carbon in yours MXkid261? Stock electrics? (I think they are about the same weight as my Hacker L can and Suppo 200) I would be interested to see pictures of the inside of yours if you have or can get any, to see where I can save further weight.

[roofintrash]

Was it as floppy as all hell before you put the carbon in roofintrash?

I weighed my MM and it is 2038g 4lb 8oz without batteries, so 2598g or 5lb 12oz RTR. I will be shooting for 2kg or 4.4lb RTR, which is 1440g or 3lb 3oz without batteries, think that is doable with a stripped out MC? Do you have carbon in yours MXkid261? Stock electrics? (I think they are about the same weight as my Hacker L can and Suppo 200) I would be interested to see pictures of the inside of yours if you have or can get any, to see where I can save further weight.

I wouldn't call it floppy overall,but the tunnel floor was quite flexible. The carbon stiffened it up nicely.

[Mxkid261]

Was it as floppy as all hell before you put the carbon in roofintrash?

I weighed my MM and it is 2038g 4lb 8oz without batteries, so 2598g or 5lb 12oz RTR. I will be shooting for 2kg or 4.4lb RTR, which is 1440g or 3lb 3oz without batteries, think that is doable with a stripped out MC? Do you have carbon in yours MXkid261? Stock electrics? (I think they are about the same weight as my Hacker L can and Suppo 200) I would be interested to see pictures of the inside of yours if you have or can get any, to see where I can save further weight.

I got mine last summer in scratch and dent section from tower with no electrics, so never ran it "stock". I do not have carbon in mine because I still run the tub. I bet you could get it right around 4.5 lbs RTR. I can weigh mine with two 6500mah 2s SMC packs if you'd like.

[Prodrvr]

I got the cnc 42x1.4 prop in the mail yesterday. Hopefully I can get a run in after work today to get some numbers.

[NativePaul]

So what electrics do you have in it?

[Prodrvr]

All stock running 2 - 4s 4000's in parallel

[Mxkid261]

So what electrics do you have in it?

I have a couple setups I've ran. Usually just use a 3674 and a T120 or 180. I have a castle 1515 1Y and a new Raider 150 ESC to try, this setup will definitely be a little heavier. I thought of cutting out the tub over this past winter, but it runs so well as is I just left it, plus its kind of convenient. I usually run two 6500mah 2s packs.

[Prodrvr]

Well, I had a very disappointing test session. Installed the new cnc 42x1.4 prop, charged up the 4s x 2, went for a run. Here's the numbers:

34.31 A
536.2 W
28.7 MPH
I thought the stock plastic prop is 42 x 1.4, maybe it's not? I lost 3.2 mph from the stock prop.

[Doby]

put an M445 on it and hang on!

[Doby]

Is the boat running wet? Strut to low? CG to far forward?

[Doby]

Go to the 2:22 mark of the vid...mine with stock electronics running 50.5 Mph on the gps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xcBY3sqrHw

[Prodrvr]

Doby- she's airing out pretty well, but could air out a touch more. I have the strut level...1/8" up from the sponson bottoms. I'll try the M445 and see how she goes. Are you running yours on 4s? I see the motor is rated for up to 5s, so I might pick up a pair to try. The Seaking 120 showed up today, so I'll get it hooked up over the weekend.

[Prodrvr]

How would a 3 blade prop work out?

[Doby]

A single 4s 5800 mah, 25C Turnigy.

Mines strut is 1/2" from the bottom. Running a very modified X452.

[Prodrvr]

Wow a 1/2"! I'll have to get another prop for sure.

[Doby]

That lets the motor spin the big prop...and helps air out the hull.

[Prodrvr]

I think it might be time to start modding the hull and rebuild.

[Prodrvr]

Thinking of going with a SSS 3674 2075Kv on 5s

[Mxkid261]

I would toss a motor/esc in it, an m445, and go let er rip. I wouldn't want to go any faster than 50 unless its reinforced. If you find yourself wanting more speed you may want to look into building something or buying something more capable.

[Prodrvr]

I'm actually waiting on a FC Daytona that I bought to show up

[Fluid]

I agree, don't waste your money on the SSS motor and 5S, the stock setup will push the cat as fast as it can stand. As stated, these hulls are too fragile for high speeds. Mine runs stock electronics, 4S 5000 mAh pack and a modded x445 for top speeds in the upper 40s in race water. The bottom of the SpeedMaster strut is about 3/8" above the bottom and angled up at the prop end by two degrees.

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?35849-My-Motley-Crew-Re-Build&highlight=Motley

The Daytona will be a better choice for higher speeds and would be best, IMO, on 6S and a 40x82 motor, the Kv depending on speed and run time expectations.


.

[Prodrvr]

I agree, don't waste your money on the SSS motor and 5S, the stock setup will push the cat as fast as it can stand. As stated, these hulls are too fragile for high speeds. Mine runs stock electronics, 4S 5000 mAh pack and a modded x445 for top speeds in the upper 40s in race water. The bottom of the SpeedMaster strut is about 3/8" above the bottom and angled up at the prop end by two degrees.

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?35849-My-Motley-Crew-Re-Build&highlight=Motley

The Daytona will be a better choice for higher speeds and would be best, IMO, on 6S and a 40x82 motor, the Kv depending on speed and run time expectations.


.

Planning on going with twin 4082's on 6s

[Prodrvr]

And the stock 1800kv motor will handle 5s, so I'll get a couple and play with props.

[Prodrvr]

Fluid- you run just one pack?

[Fluid]

Yes. For a one-mile race a single pack is plenty. I normally return with 30-40% remaining in the pack. No reason not to run two if you need more run time.


.

[Prodrvr]

That will certainly keep the weight down.

[Prodrvr]

I have a feeling the dremel is gonna be coming out this weekend.

[Prodrvr]

Yes. For a one-mile race a single pack is plenty. I normally return with 30-40% remaining in the pack. No reason not to run two if you need more run time.


.

I'm not much worried about run time as I am about balance. Where do you have your single battery mounted?

[Prodrvr]

Looks like a normal boat on the inside now!

[Prodrvr]

http://i738.photobucket.com/albums/xx25/Prodrvr2006/IMG_1952_zpssiloibgn.jpg (http://s738.photobucket.com/user/Prodrvr2006/media/IMG_1952_zpssiloibgn.jpg.html)

[roofintrash]

Looking good brother. You'll probably end up cutting a nice chunk off the stuffing tube with the new mount. Get that weight down low.

[Prodrvr]

Thanks Rick! I smoothed out the edges right under where the hatch sits, so it looks a little cleaner. The inside of the hull is sanded and ready for the carbon fiber. I have some 2 part super high density foam that I will pour into the sponson tips. I did this to a Hobbyking C1 Flowmaster. I added a bit too much to that hull, but you can probably beat the front end with a hammer and nothing much would happen. On the MC, I'll use a little less foam as to not add too much weight. Then I have to order the carbon fiber. Now I know that everyone and their brother uses West Systems epoxy. In my snooping around online, I came across this place... www.sollercomposites.com They sell West Systems, but then I kept reading and came across this epoxy... http://www.sollercomposites.com/composites/Epoxy.html#nano Now a quart of that epoxy along with a yard of 3K 2x2 twill, will cost $90 shipped. However, I think this hull would take anything after that stuff is applied!! What do you think?

[Fluid]

I'm not much worried about run time as I am about balance. Where do you have your single battery mounted?
150681

I think you are are wasting money with your expensive epoxy and cloth. I have used ZPoxy resin to install carbon inlays for years and it works great. Crashed many boats over 90 mph without inlay separation, etc. the secret for any inlay is to use a minimum amount of resin. I use an epoxy roller to press the cloth down firmly, then wipe the excess epoxy off. Less epoxy = stronger inlay.

The inlay will be very strong, but the sides and top of the hull are weak. Crashing over 50 mph usually results in a cracked hull if not split seams.


.

[Prodrvr]

150681

I think you are are wasting money with your expensive epoxy and cloth. I have used ZPoxy resin to install carbon inlays for years and it works great. Crashed many boats over 90 mph without inlay separation, etc. the secret for any inlay is to use a minimum amount of resin. I use an epoxy roller to press the cloth down firmly, then wipe the excess epoxy off. Less epoxy = stronger inlay.

The inlay will be very strong, but the sides and top of the hull are weak. Crashing over 50 mph usually results in a cracked hull if not split seams.


.

I was going to lay a 2" wide strip along the seams, then one wide piece to cover the floor and up the sides. Then I'll put another piece under the deck and part way down the sides. I'll use the 3M 77 to tack it all in place first, then epoxy it all at the same time. Does that epoxy roller act like a squeegee to get all the excess epoxy up from the fabric? And thanks for the pic!

[roofintrash]

I used z-poxy on mine too. I did the bottom and about an inch up the sides. Then ran another piece from the top down to overlap the bottom. I didn't do anything to the top as I really don't plan to go any faster with this boat (low 50's) I did add a few ounces of epoxy to each tip with some chopped carbon mixed in for the heck of it.

[Prodrvr]

I really don't plan to go any faster with this boat (low 50's)

I want to try for 65-70 tops

[Mxkid261]

Looks good but I pray for that boat when it blows over at 70 Lol

[Prodrvr]

I'll do my best to make it survive lol

[Prodrvr]

Some guy is running his at 72+ so we'll see what happens.

[Prodrvr]

Ok, just did a 67g pour of Alumilte 610 2 part 6lb. density foam in the nose.

[Fluid]

Some guy is running his at 72+ so we'll see what happens.
Be careful of believing what "some guy" on the internet says. Capturing a high GPS speed is not that tough today, just takes money. But like so many YouTube videos, things may not be what they seem. Many internet trolls seem to think they have to inflate the truth (or leave out important details) to build cred...

- may be a complete lie
- may be a false GPS reading (my MC once recorded 160 mph on GPS!)
- may have never crashed it
- may have crashed but was not mentioned
- may have caught fire (right after the video stopped)
- may have overheated, ruining motor
- etc. etc. etc.



.

[Prodrvr]

Wow 160!! A little glitch lol

[Prodrvr]

This is the vid I watched...

https://youtu.be/gJ-3-F6BMNI

[Prodrvr]

But i would be happy with this...

https://youtu.be/OwoDHNroq9I

[Prodrvr]

Just ordered a SSS 3674 2075Kv motor. Should do the trick.

[Mxkid261]

So did this thing go 70 yet?

[Prodrvr]

Still waiting on parts. Carbon fiber is done at least. Slowly getting there. I should have ordered everything sooner.

[Mxkid261]

What parts are you waiting on?

[Prodrvr]

Motor, esc, servo, some assorted hardware, and the most important thing...money! I get paid bi-weekly so it takes me some time to get things. I couldn't make up my mind on hardware to attach the hatch, so I ordered a bunch of different stuff so I can see what would work best.

[Prodrvr]

I did buy a Seaking 120 that's sitting here, but now I'm thinking that it's not enough. I'm going to try a Flier 180 esc. Been hearing a lot of good stuff about them, so I'll try it.

[Prodrvr]

Motor showed up today. It's installed along with the shaft and prop.

[Prodrvr]

Thought about trying a different motor for some more speed. What do ya think? :laugh:

[Prodrvr]

Ok, I'm FINALLY in the testing phase with this project.

https://youtu.be/vnjAzpoje6c

[MADRCER]

I thought I knew you from somewhere......

[fweasel]

Beautiful piece of property.

[Prodrvr]

I thought I knew you from somewhere......

Ahh yes, I get around lol

[Prodrvr]

Beautiful piece of property.

Thanks! Too bad they're making it so I have to move when my lease is up. But there's another apartment about 10 minutes away that has much nicer, bigger lakes on it.

[MADRCER]

What rescue boat is that? AquaCraft Atlantic Harbor tug? Did you make the retrieval hooked float or did you buy it like that?

[Prodrvr]

That is the Hobby Engine Southampton tug, which now Tower sells. The only thing I left alone are the motors. Twin 280 brushed. I installed a better steering servo, esc, and the Spekky radio. She'll pull over 100lbs. I run it on 3s. The retrieval float is from Billy Boy Bobbers and made from balsa. It's attached to the tug with 10 feet of 20lb. test fish line. The hooks are just steel hooks I got from Walmart. They have threads on the one end, so I opened the hooks some and screwed them into the float. Got the rubber caps for the hook ends from ebay.

[MADRCER]

Thanks for the info! What ESC did you use in the HE tug?

[Prodrvr]

Some random 60A 2-4s esc off ebay. It's not even water cooled, it's a car esc. I've test run that tug wide open for 22 minutes and it was starting to get hot, so for a few minutes of rescue operation, it's fine.

[Prodrvr]

What really sucks that I didn't do when I first got it was to buy a pair of kort props for it from the Prop Shop. It has kort nozzles, but standard style four blade props. With the kort props it would have a lot more pulling power. But it looks like the Prop Shop is done since they had that fire back in April.

[MADRCER]

The floats I have found are made of foam. You said yours is made from Balsa wood right? See the links below and point me in the right direction, if you don't mind. Is yours the .050 size (like 5x3 inches)? Looks like these are all foam.

http://www.bettstackle.net/pdf/betts05-06rfloats.pdf
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00689P7BO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

[Prodrvr]

The floats I have found are made of foam. You said yours is made from Balsa wood right? See the links below and point me in the right direction, if you don't mind. Is yours the .050 size (like 5x3 inches)? Looks like these are all foam.

http://www.bettstackle.net/pdf/betts05-06rfloats.pdf
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00689P7BO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

The one you linked from Amazon is the one I have. It was $2 less on ebay. It is made of foam. The ebay listing said it was balsa, but in checking it out further, it is foam. But it must be some high density stuff because it doesn't feel like foam.

[MADRCER]

Thanks! That's the one I thought it was. Might get one and play around with it.

[Prodrvr]

Here's the one I bought. It was a good experience. http://www.ebay.com/itm/351977013045?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[MADRCER]

Thanks. Any info on the hook slip covers? size?

[Prodrvr]

Bada bing...http://www.ebay.com/itm/181792943623?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[MADRCER]

You da man! I would have never guessed them being antenna tube caps!

[Prodrvr]

Yeah man, sometimes my brain works! lol