My first Build

[Newboater]

First time build and I'm pretty clueless but I never let that stop me before:laugh: Using the forum info and pictures for the build.
A nice little Mean Machine 2. The better half helped by adding the extra carbon fiber for the rest of the bottom and the sides of the hull. I installed bind nuts in the transom to mount the strut so I don't have to ask the boss for help because my hand don't fit inside there. Also strengthened the hatch with 2ounce fiberglass. Didn't use carbon fiber as I was worried that the carbon fiber would limit the radio receiver signal. I think I am going to try and mount receiver and antenna inside the hull as the receiver is a SR201 with a really small antenna length. If that receiver doesn't work then I will switch to a 301, and move the antenna to outside the boat. Also made a nice little PVC boat stand for working on and transporting the boat.

Running gear will be:
OSE offset rudder.
Leopard 1500KV 4082
Seaking 180 ESC
Spektrum DX2e
Travis's Hatch bolt kit.

[golfito]

Excellent!
Not be occurred had the reduction with carbon fiber signal. I hope not to be so... late for my.
Also gonna to use Spektrum, but the old sr3500 or sr3001.
Beautiful hull.

[Newboater]

Okay motor mount installed and strut mounted. Next up stuffing tube.............

[Newboater]

Did a little more work today. Motor strut and stuffing tube done. Next ESC and steering servo

[NativePaul]

Sorry, but that stuffing tube is no good, if used as is the flex will be very inefficient, heat up and quickly break where that hard bend is, you want a gradual bend over nearly the whole length of the stuffing tube.

Remove the liner (if fitted), and the strut, then heat the stuffing tube with a soldering iron (or heat gun if you protect the hull from the heat), when hot it will weaken the JB weld locally and let you pull it out with pliers. You will have to extend the length of the slot in the bottom much further back as well, to put a stuffing tube with a more reasonable bend in.

[Newboater]

Okay going to redo the problem is the distance on the mean machine for the stuffing tube is pretty short.

[Mxkid261]

My rivercat tube is about that same length you need it like this

http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx156/mxkid261/Mobile%20Uploads/image_22.jpg

[Newboater]

My rivercat tube is about that same length you need it like this

http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx156/mxkid261/Mobile%20Uploads/image_22.jpg


Thanks,
Can you show me a picture of the inside by the motor also..

[Mxkid261]

Sure thing. Motor is as low as it could go with a long cooling jacket.

http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx156/mxkid261/Mobile%20Uploads/image_17.jpg

[Newboater]

Thanks,
going to try again tomorrow hopefully with better results

[Newboater]

Okay redid the stuffing tube does this one look good before I JB weld it in??

148377148378

[fweasel]

The bend radius is much improved, but the tube/strut looks really low in relation to the bottom of the sponsons. Can you post a picture or take a measurement of the bottom of the strut in relation to the bottom of the sponsons?

[Newboater]

The bend radius is much improved, but the tube/strut looks really low in relation to the bottom of the sponsons. Can you post a picture or take a measurement of the bottom of the strut in relation to the bottom of the sponsons?

Here is a picture with a 1914 prop. The strut is as positive as it can go to accommodate this prop a small prop I can go more positive. Is it okay for the stuffing tube to be above the sponsons.

[fweasel]

I have no experience with that hull, but on my 29" cats, the strut sweet spot was a good 3-4mm above the bottom of the sponsons, at a neutral trim angle. I could place the boat on a flat table without a prop, and the strut and stuffing tube would not touch.

[TheShaddix]

As a general rule you want the strut always inline with your sponsons, not below or above. This way it won't be creating any drag. Only your prop and the bottom of the strut should touch the water. When you set the boat on a flat table you should have all of the 3 parts touching down evenly. If you find that your prop is too small, put a bigger prop on. Only half of your prop needs to be in the water when it's on plane.

[boredom.is.me]

Find a prop that fits your boat, not the other way around.

[Newboater]

Find a prop that fits your boat, not the other way around.
Motor is 1500kv going to need a bigger prop as going to be running on 6s

[Newboater]

I have no experience with that hull, but on my 29" cats, the strut sweet spot was a good 3-4mm above the bottom of the sponsons, at a neutral trim angle. I could place the boat on a flat table without a prop, and the strut and stuffing tube would not touch.

The hole through the hull I made is probably too small. going to increase it a bit to get a better angle. Started small as I didn't want to have to try and add material back to the hull.

[Newboater]

Native Paul set me straight:bowdown: The hole I made in the hull was to small. Increased it by 1/4" and the universe aligned. Perfect stuffing tube just need to trim the length a touch as straightening out the stuffing tube made it a bit closer to the motor and the tube is almost straight.
Pictures

[fweasel]

and all is right again with the world. Glue away!

[Tamelesstgr]

Just curuois how hard was it to get rid of the JB Weld when you re-did the stuffing tube?

[Newboater]

Just curuois how hard was it to get rid of the JB Weld when you re-did the stuffing tube?
Actually really easy. I used a hot air gun till it started to soften and it came right out.

[Newboater]

and all is right again with the world. Glue away!

Yea I am so excited. Spent the last 3 days outside in 25* weather fixing my daughters jeep. It is nice to finally have something go well.

[Tamelesstgr]

Thanks for the tip

[Mxkid261]

Looks better

[Newboater]

Looks better

Thanks by opening the hull a little I was able to keep the bend at 10-15* angle which is pretty mild.

[Newboater]

Well between the problems with my daughter's jeep and then loosing both the front wheel bearings in my Toyota, I didn't think I would find time to do anything on the boat. Anyway yesterday and today were quiet and rainy so I took advantage of it. Also added the hatch bolt kit. Basically ready for paint.

[rayzerdesigns]

As a general rule you want the strut always inline with your sponsons, not below or above. This way it won't be creating any drag. Only your prop and the bottom of the strut should touch the water. When you set the boat on a flat table you should have all of the 3 parts touching down evenly. If you find that your prop is too small, put a bigger prop on. Only half of your prop needs to be in the water when it's on plane.

I disagree..on my gas cat it's almost even.. but everyone of my electric cats are at least 2-5mm above bottom of sponsons..

[TheShaddix]

Any reason yours are 2-5mm above bottom of sponsons...? Is there any advantage? I am not trying to argue the point, I was just under the impression that it's best to have the prop hub as close to the water as possible so the full blade (one of the blades when it's down) is in the water.

[fweasel]

Any reason yours are 2-5mm above bottom of sponsons...? Is there any advantage? I'm not experienced enough to tell you why, but when I was tuning my Blackjack 29 V3, the sweetspot for the strut was about 3mm above the bottom of the sponsons, all other factors being equal. I started with it dead even and picked up speed as it was raised.

[rayzerdesigns]

Picked up speed .. but the biggest thing I found was that it helped settling it in corners..less trying to hook

[TheShaddix]

Ah, that makes sense! The picked up speed is probably due to freed up rpm with less blade in water, and the strut most likely was still grabbing a bit on acceleration. Come to think of it, even on cats the stingers always sit about 2-5mm high due to the slant on the sponson surfaces. Never saw any negative effects.