Need Help with newest 180A SeaKings

[donhuff]

I got one of these newest Seaking 180s, the ones with the extra 4 caps, about a month ago. I finally got around to using it a couple of weeks ago, and immediately had problems.
Then with a race in south Georgia coming up this past weekend, I ordered 2 more thinking that maybe I just got a bad one. But in racing, you have to have spares. So I rigged out the 2 new ones as usual, and once we got to the race, I tried one in practice only to find out that it does the exact same thing. And the third one does it also!

147458


After launching and getting up on plane, I punch the throttle and bout half way down the back straight, it shuts off. Release the throttle then get right back on it and it goes maybe a couple hundred feet and shuts off again. I can actually keep the boat running and at speed by rapidly letting off and getting back on it.

Before you say LVC, let me say that I have tried EVERY LVC setting, 4 different motors, 4 different battery sets, 3 different boats, and at least 6 different props ranging from so small that it would barely get on plane to large enough that it SHOULD have knocked off earlier. But it usually takes about the same amount of TIME.

They will run at half throttle just fine, but at WOT they stop.

Also let me say that I have 5 or 6 other 180 seakings, and 4 120A SKs, and they all work great. So it's not like I don't know how to program them, unless they have changed something.

[Mxkid261]

Are you running Auto-cell calculate? Or do you have the cell count manually selected? I have 4 of the new v3's and the one in my 32" rivercat is getting worked to its max, if I don't manually select the cell count it will do funky things like cut out.

[NativePaul]

This is me not saying it's the LVC.

[donhuff]

MXkid,

I've tried it both ways, with 4s packs in a P, and 2 s packs in an N. Is this one (with 6 caps on the power wires) the version 3? I've not been doing FE but for 1 1/2 years, so I do not know a lot about any of the older stuff.

Paul,

That's what I thought. I tried EVERY setting and several different packs to try and nail down what I was doing wrong. Does the same thing no matter what I have tried.

I can take this ESC out, and put one of my "two cap" model 180As in, and it works fine. I checked both to see if I had one set different from the other. But both had the same settings.

[Mxkid261]

What kind of packs are you running? What is their discharge rate? Any of my 180a esc's will go into LVC with anything less than like a 50c battery unless LVC is turned off. The v3's seem to be alot more sensitive than the older ones

[donhuff]

Roaring Top 60C (3 different sets) 4s2p and a TP 4070-2200....TP 4050-2390.......TP 3650-3080 on 2s2p.....Leopard 4074-2200

I have run these same setups with some zippy 45C packs, and my older 180A SKs

[donhuff]

Do ya'll have this newest version that I'm describing with the SIX caps on the wires. Is this the V3?

[Mxkid261]

Do ya'll have this newest version that I'm describing with the SIX caps on the wires. Is this the V3?

Yes that is the v3. Like I said I have 4 of them and the only real problem I've ever had with them is from user abuse over-amping it which turned into a smoke show :biggrin:

[donhuff]

Hummm.

I wonder what I'm doing wrong then. I just went out to the shop and checked for the third time, to make sure I had them on the 4 cell setting, and they all were.

Then I Load tested my batteries and the lowest voltage I saw was 14.2V This was dropping from 99% charge to 70% in about 30-45 seconds. So that should be as much or worst than when they were in the boat.

[longballlumber]

Just grasping at straws...

I assume that your using the BEC function to power the RX (NO separate RX Pack). I would try a separate stand alone RX pack. Make sure you disconnect the power line (red wire) between speed control and receiver. I don't really have a reason why that would cause your issue, but it eliminates the BEC function as a cause.

Later,
Mike

[donhuff]

Yep, tried that too!

Look close in the picture in my first post and you can see tape holding the red wire back.

[Mxkid261]

Do you have another receiver and transmitter to try? Might as well give it a shot if you do

[donhuff]

Already tried it in 3 different boats.

[donhuff]

I just rigged up a test bench using a leopard 36x50-2090 motor, 4s pack, and I used APC pylon racing airplane props for the load. with a 7.5x5 it will run till I turn it off. With an 8.5X8, it runs for about 5-6 seconds then shuts off. The green LED is flashing indicating high temp cut off. But I can put my fingers on it and hold them there all day! So it aint really hot. The motor gets hot even with the smaller prop since I do not have water running to it. 142 F was the highest I saw, but I did not run it but maybe 10 to 15 seconds.
And just like when on the water, if I let off of the throttle and get right back on it, it does run again, but only half as long. If it was really hot, it should take a little to cool off, don't ya think.

[fweasel]

You're one hell of a troubleshooter and I think it's fair to say you've spent enough time on this ESC and it should be replaced by the seller you purchased it from.

[Mxkid261]

I think it's fair to say you've spent enough time on this ESC and it should be replaced by the seller you purchased it from.

In his first post he stated he has 3 new controllers that are all doing the same thing. I'd be pretty surprised if he has 3 brand new bad speedo's

[fweasel]

In his first post he stated he has 3 new controllers that are all doing the same thing. I'd be pretty surprised if he has 3 brand new bad speedo'sYou're correct, I missed that. There is something to be said about production batches. So, potentially, all 3 could have the issue.

[Fluid]

The OP states that his old controllers work great, just the three new ones are troublesome. So it seems that either all three new ESCs are defective, or the programming is different/wrong. strange...



.

[Mxkid261]

The OP states that his old controllers work great, just the three new ones are troublesome. So it seems that either all three new ESCs are defective, or the programming is different/wrong. strange...

.

Very strange... :confused2:

[donhuff]

Yes, I don't want to replace it with another one that will do the same thing! And since I have two doing it (haven't tried the third one) I have to suspect that there was something changed in this newest model.

But I still think that "I" may be doing something wrong as I'm sure I am not the first one to buy this new style, and others are not having this problem.

I found this morning that I have a different programming card than what is available today. Mine is a hobbywing, but it only supports four function changes. The newer ones have the ability to change 12 different things, with one of them being over heat protection. If I had one of those, I could turn the heat protection off and see if that "fixed" it. But I don't see why they would have lowered the limit on the new ESCs, to the point that the same setup makes them cut off, and the old ones keep running.

And others have been telling me that running them at less than full throttle will make the ESC run hotter than when at WOT. I don't understand how that can happen but it's what I keep hearing/reading. But I can run these new ESCs at half throttle till the batts are dead, but hit full rabbit, and it'll go about a 1/4 of a lap and shut off.

[donhuff]

I just finished reading some other post and they were saying that the V3 model has been around since 2014. So I guess all of the ones that I have are the V3 since they all look alike....except these last three. They have 4 extra caps in the shrink wrap on the power wires. And those four caps are wired together, but separate from the normal two that are usually there. And those four have a red and black wire that runs down into the potting material like the power wires do.

So I guess this is the newest version of the V3 ?

[Mxkid261]

I had one of the first v3 models from 2014 and it didn't have the 4 extra caps just the 2 on the case and the 2 on the diode board on the power wires, I burned that one up. I've heard from many others that these ESC's are designed to be run at full throttle and running it around at half throttle for a full run puts more stress on the contoller than if you were wide open the entire run. I was going to say you should check which program card you have because I'm pretty sure the v2 program card is different than the card for the V3 esc's

Edit: It looks like the program card is the same, but the listing on OSE says it includes an adapter wire for programming a version 3 seaking ESC

[fweasel]

Can this ESC be programmed without a card using a controller?

[Mxkid261]

Can this ESC be programmed without a card using a controller?

Yes absolutely.

[donhuff]

Yes, but you can only do the basic functions with the tx same as with my simple program card, far as I can tell. Plus I'm 62 years old and can barely hear THUNDER. All that dang beeping and waiting, spinning in a circle, and clicking the heels on you ruby slippers, pizzes me off! I can never get it right, my fault I know, but I still don't like it.

I see that they have an LCD programming card and you can do lots more with it, plus I can READ it! Since between me and my son we have 8 of these things (180s and 120s) it should be a worthwhile investment.

While looking at several you tube videos. I saw that a couple of the helicopter guys turned off the overheat protection because it "jumps in to early".

[Mxkid261]

I don't even have the option to turn off the overheat protection, I'm pretty sure you cannot disable over temp protection on any of the marine controllers. I know there is nothing in my 180a manual about turning off over-temp protection. Which program card are you using exactly? Can you post a link to it or a picture? I'm wondering if the card your using is not meant for the v3 seaking ESC. Even though it might make a tone and show you changed a parameter, it may not actually be changing. Just a thought

[donhuff]

I don't have that option on my old card either. And your right about it not saying anything about it in the manual. But on the hobbywing direct north america web site, you can see it, and several youtube videos show it.

I said that on the new version, and the LCD program card, you DO have that option.

Hummm, well after looking closer. It shows that on the boat escs, you still only have control over the same four settings. Well dern!

[Mxkid261]

Ya the air ESC's might have more parameter's to change than the boat ESC's. Like stated, there are only 4 parameters you can change on the boat ESC's. I'm willing to bet your program card is not actually changing the parameters of the controller. Is this the card your using? http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ker-seaking-pcard

[donhuff]

Mine looks like that other than it does not have but the four parameters on the front.

it changes the battery voltage and timing Im sure.

[Mxkid261]

Hmm...shouldn't be the card then. I'm just about at a loss then Lol. You may want to try contacting Hobbywing North America. They have warehouse's in Los Angeles and Reno.

[donhuff]

I hate sending stuff back and getting the same old "we see that it is within our specs" reply.

I'm tempted to remove the new cap bank to see what that does. I thought that caps were suppose to be on the power wires, but these go into the potted area. I know that should not affect it, but the old ones without these caps don't have this problem.

[Mxkid261]

Ya that shouldn't make a difference and if you do that you will definitely void any warranty it may have

[centralrcmystic]

One of mine on a twin mono is doing the same thing. I have the programming car and have tried every option. Does anyone know what size the bullet connectors are on the V3. I broke one and it needs to be replaced

[Revolt Flash]

One of mine on a twin mono is doing the same thing. I have the programming car and have tried every option. Does anyone know what size the bullet connectors are on the V3. I broke one and it needs to be replacedMost come with 6mm bullets.I also have the same problem with the three of mine. After a lot of R&D I put a 240 esc with data logger and found the only thing going on crazy was was the amp draw I had which was about 229 amps. I found that they were very sensitive to prop size. I bought all these 180 esc's in the last year with one being a tunigy.

[Mxkid261]

So has anyone who is having problems actually contacted Hobbywing North America's tech support? You can email or even text message Charlie@hobbywing.com and you should get a quick response. If they did infact have a bad batch of ESC's the only way they're going to know there are issues is if people are informing them about it. When the controller actually shuts down, has anyone left it alone and gone out to the boat to see what the LED status on the ESC is? For those having issues, what radio system are you using?

[Revolt Flash]

So has anyone who is having problems actually contacted Hobbywing North America's tech support? You can email or even text message Charlie@hobbywing.com and you should get a quick response. If they did infact have a bad batch of ESC's the only way they're going to know there are issues is if people are informing them about it. When the controller actually shuts down, has anyone left it alone and gone out to the boat to see what the LED status on the ESC is? For those having issues, what radio system are you using?Haven't brought it in yet right after it quit. Good idea. Controllers are Traxxas,Tactic and Spectrum. Just sent an email to Charlie as you suggested. Thanks Ralph

[Mxkid261]

Ya I would try to run it as close to shore as you can, get it to act up and immediately try to get it in and see what the LED is doing.

[modvp55]

Mine is also doing it with no LED flashing. LVC is off, auto or set to 6s, different throttle settings same issue. Quick on/off on throttle it keeps running. Have e-mailed Charlie an after a few thinks he had me try no change.

[Revolt Flash]

Mine is also doing it with no LED flashing. LVC is off, auto or set to 6s, different throttle settings same issue. Quick on/off on throttle it keeps running. Have e-mailed Charlie an after a few thinks he had me try no change.

Charlie had said their new digital box will update the 180 esc. I haven't tried that yet. So I know for sure that to big of prop or to much drag being motor alignment or flex cable causing the amps to be to much will cause it to shut down momentarily. The castle 240 Hydra in the same boat did not cut off on me.

[donhuff]

So I got one of the multifunction program boxes, and it will not go past "connecting ESC"

[Revolt Flash]

Which one of the program boxes did you get?

[donhuff]

this one

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ker-100pro

[golfito]

Hello!
I have the previous LCD programmer card and I did not get it to work. Try changing the soft several times and it did not work.

The card that you indicate in your description indicates that it works with the seaking pro line only.
Then you need the LED card for seaking boat esc.

Part Number

30501003

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ker-seaking-pcard


Hobbywing Multifunction LCD Professional Program Box
Overview

This multifunction program box is for programming HobbyWing brushless ESCs. Its friendly LCD interface makes ESC programming easy and quick. With a PC, you can upgrade ESC firmware and further adjust ESC parameters online. Besides, it’s compact, portable and very applicable for field use.

This multifunction LCD program box is applicable for the following HOBBYWING products:

Platinum series of brushless aircraft ESCs,
XeRun series & EzRun series of brushless car ESCs,
Seaking Pro series of brushless boat ESCs

https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/pages/download

For SEAKING ESC

New firmware “SK-3.1.16” for Seaking PRO 160A ESCs is released, which improves the communication capability and strengthens the voltage protection function (of the ESCs) for meeting the racing requirements.
New firmware “SK-3.1.05” for Seaking PRO 120A ESCs is released, which improves the communication capability and strengths the voltage protection function (of the ESCs), for meeting the racing


Unless you find any updates that you can load on the LCD card and work with the Seaking. At the time you can not find the appropriate update. Buy the LED.

Saludos!

[Revolt Flash]

So I got one of the multifunction program boxes, and it will not go past "connecting ESC"

donhuff, Try emailing Charlie at [Charlie@hobbywing.com] and tell him what is going on. I never got around to getting the LCD box he said would work I just happen to run across a Hydra Ice 240 and it cured my problems.

[donhuff]

golfito,

I have the $8.95 LED card, and it has always worked with my older 180a's. But It does not have any effect on these new ones. I don't mean to say that it has no effect, but rather that it does not fix the problem. If it is truly changing the setting, then turning the LVC off, should make the ESCs work. But they do not.

[donhuff]

Flash,

I have sent an email to charlie, now waiting for a return.

[Doug Smock]

Flash,

I have sent an email to charlie, now waiting for a return.

You have had plenty of time to find the fix Mr. Huff. I'm a little disappointed in you honestly.:laugh:
If this had been one of those rotating mass things, the issue would have been solved long ago. :bounce:
Please hurry I have Peter's mono just about ready to test and he has the newer control.:wink:

[Revolt Flash]

Flash,

I have sent an email to charlie, now waiting for a return.Keep us posted. I got a 180 acting up too.

[donhuff]

Doug,

If it had been a carburetor, I would be able to SEE what was wrong! But with this electric BS, I have to wait for something to come down out of the clouds, and then "HOPE" that it works!

And as you know, I've been busy lately trying to get the Q boat ready. I got the stinger, stuffing tube, motor mount/rails all glued in and mounted today. I hope to attach the top deck to the hull tomorrow, and then get the rest of the hardware mounted. I'm trying to get it all mounted solid so we can do some 80-90-??? mph aero-aqua-batics with it, and not damage the hull to the point that we have to start over. So I glued the rails in before joining the hull and deck, lots easier to work on that way. I have a red and a white top ready, and have the bottoms to go with them, gotta look after my record setting buddies. I just want to try the yellow one first to make sure it floats!


Flash, I'll be sure to post what I find out. I still think it's gonna be something I'm doing wrong or something that I'm not doing. Charlie got back to me around 12:00 today, but I was in the shop and did not get back to him before late evening. He wants a picture of the thing so that he knows which one I have. I thought that was odd, but looking back at my post, I forgot to say what I had other than a 180A. "sorry Charlie"

[Doug Smock]

Doug,

If it had been a carburetor, I would be able to SEE what was wrong! But with this electric BS, I have to wait for something to come down out of the clouds, and then "HOPE" that it works!

And as you know, I've been busy lately trying to get the Q boat ready. I got the stinger, stuffing tube, motor mount/rails all glued in and mounted today. I hope to attach the top deck to the hull tomorrow, and then get the rest of the hardware mounted. I'm trying to get it all mounted solid so we can do some 80-90-??? mph aero-aqua-batics with it, and not damage the hull to the point that we have to start over. So I glued the rails in before joining the hull and deck, lots easier to work on that way. I have a red and a white top ready, and have the bottoms to go with them, gotta look after my record setting buddies. I just want to try the yellow one first to make sure it floats!



:laugh::hug1:

[revoltrunner]

I have 2 seaking V3 180s that were acting the same way.
they would get up to full throttle then shut down.
then go again and shut down. in my case it was the bec
browning out and shutting down the receiver.
I'm using these to power the receiver now , no more problems.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-5a-8-40v-sbec-for-lipo.html

[donhuff]

I'm pretty sure that I tried a separate battery for the RX, didn't change anything.

I get the flashing light that sez it's a LVC problem.

[revoltrunner]

Hi Don. I really didn't think that is your issue but I saw other guys having
trouble so I thought it might help them. the bec on the v3 is not very good
and I even have a v2 that had the same problem.

[Doug Smock]

I'm pretty sure that I tried a separate battery for the RX, didn't change anything.

Yes you did.

[HTVboats]

I have 2 180's, one from OSE and one from HK purchased in the last year and both have the same cut out then reset issue. Posted on another thread here and no one has come up with a solution that works. I also tried all the settings and eliminated the BEC with the same results. 4s and 6s. Totally frustrating as my oldest 180 has worked perfectly for years.
Solution is buy another brand ESC or find a short course with 50 ft straightaways, lift and get back on it.
What could have changed from the old to new V-3's? Hardware or software program?
Mic

[donhuff]

Hi Mic,

Thank God somebody else is having the same issues as I'm having. Sorry that it's happening to you, but I was beginning to think that I had bought the only three BAD escs that they made.

Charlie did get back to me, but did not offer a lot of info. He said that I should set the throttle limits (?). This is something that I had not done as "usually" with the seaking 180s and 120s that we have used before, this was not an issue. We just take em out of the box, solder ends on them, set cell count no reverse and timing with a program box, and go racing. The throttle has always been right before, without having to set the limits. The throttle was ok with these units too, just like the older ones were. Doug Smock told me to do the same thing so I'M GONNA DO IT and give that a try even though I have absolutely no faith that it will have anything to do with the problem. We'll see this weekend if that has any effect, and Doug will too as he also has one of these newer units in a boat that he is setting up for another club member.

It really seems like an over heat problem to me, and since I get the green blinking light when it shuts down, this seems to verify it. Then after the first shut down, the second one comes quicker, and the the third even quicker. Sounds like a heat buildup to me. But then it seems to level off and runs the same length of time there after. I'm about ready to send them to Hobbywing usa but I bet that they will give me flack about cutting off the switch and shortening the leads.

[HTVboats]

I wonder if the issue is the program or components to go to a failsafe mode triggered by a heat sensor is kicking in prematurely and then releasing back to full throttle as it recognizes a safe temp? Just thinking. I have always set my end point to 120%. Maybe a less percentage will keep it from triggering the momentary shut down. If I hold the throttle just short of full it doesn't quit? Then again it's a cheap controller and you get what you pay for. Have not tried my $38 Flycolor 150's with more than a 1515 yet. Maybe on 6s they will run a 1521? As for "P" it looks like an MGM or Swordy 240-300.
Mic

[Doug Smock]

Anything new on this fellas?

[Revolt Flash]

I'm still waiting for that magical answer too.

[HTVboats]

Yep, I spent $320 for another MGM (25035 Lite) and have 2 worthless 180's on the "healing Shelf" with some Castles and Swordy's for company. For what I have spent on cheap esc's I could have a few more MGM's or Swordy 300's.
Mic
Solutions are never cheap!

[cocos710]

Note: merged threads.

Hi guys...
We tested 6 new seaking 180 and all of them shut off at full throttle on 6 cells and 4082 1600kv motors. The big issue is that we instaled the older one back and had no problems.

It apears the new overload breaker is to sensitive. Also notice that once shutoff was activate the first time ......it kept going off sooner every next time.

If you have experience similar results please say so.

Several dealers did not believe our claims.

[Tamelesstgr]

It is pretty common among the V3 esc's that they have sensative low voltage cutoff over the V2

Few questions:
What batteries are you using?
What is your LVC set at in the esc?

[Revolt Flash]

cocos710 go to [ Hobby Wing (Seaking) ESC's Q & A] Look up [Electronics Talk] then [ESC] and you find other complaints.

[cocos710]

It is pretty common among the V3 esc's that they have sensative low voltage cutoff over the V2

Few questions:
What batteries are you using?
What is your LVC set at in the esc?

We tried all programing changes possible with the new 180 and had no luck.
Even on 4 cells it would not hold a x448 with out shutting off.

Batteries were very good 100C on 4s and 6s.

[cocos710]

We tried all programing changes possible with the new 180 and had no luck.
Even on 4 cells it would not hold a x448 with out shutting off.

Batteries were very good 100C on 4s and 6s.

[golfito]

Did you consult the manufacturer?
Or in HOBBYWING North America?
There are already 3 or 4 users with the same problem, right?

https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/collections/seaking-v3-manual

[785boats]

Have you tried running them with the lv cutout switched off?
I always switch it off in mine for my race boats.

Also. What is the answer to the question of what setting you have the lvc set at?

[Doug Smock]

Hey fellas,

This seems to be wide spread. A good number of guys have tried everything to resolve this. Too bad too as these have been good controls up until now. I have one for a build I'm doing that I will test this weekend.

I'm going to merge this thread with the other one(s)

It would be great if we could get a manufacturer representative to come weigh in on this.

[golfito]

"Low Voltage Cutoff Protection:

When the battery voltage falls below the preset cutoff threshold for over 1 second, the ESC will cut off the output and stop working, then the Red LED blinks slowly. The controller can be reoperated at the halved power after the throttle returns to zero.

Overheat Protection:

when the ESC temperature goes above the factory preset value, the ESC will cut off the output and stop running, then the Green LED flashes slowly. The controller can be reoperated at the halved power after the throttle returns to zero, the output will resume if the temperature decreases below 80°C.

Throttle Signal Loss Protection:

When the receiver detects no throttle signal (from the transmitter) for over 0.1 second, the ESC will cut off the output. The controller will not resume running until the signal is detected again. Hereby, we suggest users setting the no signal protection (or F/S protection value) on the TH channel (on the transmitter) to “Output off” or “Neutral position”."

[Doug Smock]

Moved from another thread.

Hello, someone who can help me has had problems with the Esc seaking 180 the problem we are having is that they are knocking down you put the boat to run and when you are going to accelerate to the maximum it stops working you remove the trigger and accelerate again and when you go to Max is the same It is not temperature It is not a signal It is not voltage and it is not programmed to be programmed of all the ways and they are finished to buy taken out of the box I have a friend already it takes 5 with the same problem and the other takes 3 with the Same problem to me I spend as recent as yesterday someone knows that is happening thanks




Moved this thread to " Hobby Wing (Seaking) ESC's Q & A forum"

[Revolt Flash]

Did you consult the manufacturer?
Or in HOBBYWING North America?
There are already 3 or 4 users with the same problem, right?

https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/collections/seaking-v3-manual

A couple of us have contacted Charlie at Hobby Wing. I did send a few emails back and forth to him. Nothing he said seem to help me out. He never offered for me to send any of them in to be checked out either.

[donhuff]

I just sent ANOTHER email to Charlie trying to explan our situation, and I included a link to this thread.

[donhuff]

Dang, that was quick!

Just heard back from Charlie. They are aware of the problem and are working on a fix. Here is part of the email he sent me.

"
Hi Don,

Good news is, we have been working on this exact topic. Bad news is that I am un clear as to exactly "when" and "how" we're going to initiate the fix for current owners and users. I need a bit more time, as we're still "confirming" the fix is working in the field, but, as soon as the testers report back, we'll be working on getting updated units exchanged for customers.
"

For anyone having the issue, I suggest that you email Charlie and get you process started charlie@hobbywing.com B

edit... They call the problem "Early Shut Down issues". When communicating with them, I would use this term to describe your problem. Might save you some time trying to explain things!

[cocos710]

Finaly ....That is great News!!!

Thank you so much for the info!!!

[Tamelesstgr]

Thanks for the merged thread and update. I have the Turnigy T180 and fortunately have not experienced any issues with it.

[donhuff]

I'm curious. Does your turnigy have six (6) caps on the power leads?

only the newest batch of seakings hav 6, and they are the only ones that give the problem.

[Tamelesstgr]

My turnigy version has 3 caps on the main body and then 4 caps on the power leads.

[donhuff]

yeah, that's not the bad one. They only have two little caps on the main body.

[Tamelesstgr]

Apologies, the V3 that I have does have 2 smaller caps. I also have a V2 which has 3 larger caps.

149783

149784

[donhuff]

Ah ha, The top pic is the correct one, but on the power leads, red and black, are there 2 or 6 caps?

If just two your good, if 6, then you got a problem. But if you have run it, you would know this.

[Tamelesstgr]

I have 4 caps on my power leads, I'll try and get a pic later

[TRUCKPULL]

Apologies, the V3 that I have does have 2 smaller caps. I also have a V2 which has 3 larger caps.

149783

149784

The bottom picture is a V2 - They are OK

Larry

[Peter A]

I got it! The fix for the problems would simply be to go back to the V2 version that worked well. I have two that get a lot of use and have even been dunked but still keep going. The V3 version isn't as good so dump it and remake V2's. That's some consumer feedback for Hobbywing.

[TRUCKPULL]

Here is the full picture of the V3

The caps are under the shrink on the power wires.
It also has a switch wired to the ESC.

Larry

[Doug Smock]

Dang, that was quick!

Just heard back from Charlie. They are aware of the problem and are working on a fix. Here is part of the email he sent me.

"
Hi Don,

Good news is, we have been working on this exact topic. Bad news is that I am un clear as to exactly "when" and "how" we're going to initiate the fix for current owners and users. I need a bit more time, as we're still "confirming" the fix is working in the field, but, as soon as the testers report back, we'll be working on getting updated units exchanged for customers.
"

For anyone having the issue, I suggest that you email Charlie and get you process started charlie@hobbywing.com B

edit... They call the problem "Early Shut Down issues". When communicating with them, I would use this term to describe your problem. Might save you some time trying to explain things!

Great news. Guys Steven is on this as well.

Thank you Charlie & Co! :thumbup1:

[golfito]

Good thing they're dealing with the problem.
Is there anything that identifies which batch of fa is defective?

[donhuff]

Yes, they have SIX caps on the power leads.

[Revolt Flash]

Hobbywing answered me yesterday and told me to start a couple of RMA's.

[cocos710]

Hi...Were can we find the correct RMA Form?

[Revolt Flash]

What I did was send Charlie [charlie@hobbywing.com] an email about the Seaking 180 v3 esc early shut down issue and Hobbywing sent me the info. and directed me in what to do.

[Mxkid261]

I have three v3's with the 2 caps on the case, 4 wired separately, and 2 on the power/ground wires. I've never had any issues with these controllers thankfully. But they were all purchased over a year ago. They must have a bad batch or something.

[Steven Vaccaro]

I rec a email back from Hobby Wing, they asked me to test an esc with this issue. Unfortunately I had one here but cant find it right now. They are trying to narrow down if its a lvc issue. See below.

"If you want to test whether yours' problem comes from the LVC,you can test with the LVC function off totally,not just turn down,which function caused the power cut off will be obviously."

ALSO If you bought a Seaking 180 from OSE that has this cut out issue, please email me directly so I can start a list.

info@offshoreelectrics.com

[785boats]

We had a guy at our club on Sunday where the ESC would go into limp mode after only two laps. We turned off the LVC but it did the same thing in the next two races as well.
It may be an over sensitive temp sensor. Although nothing in the boat was hot.

[HTVboats]

So everyone is basically on "hold" while someone at Hobbywing is trying to solve the problem? Now that make me really confident in buying their products in the future. I will not send money their way again. What happened to companies just saying send it back and we'll replace a defective unit, with an apology for your inconvenience. Not the current business model.
Mic

[fweasel]

So everyone is basically on "hold" while someone at Hobbywing is trying to solve the problem? Now that make me really confident in buying their products in the future. I will not send money their way again. What happened to companies just saying send it back and we'll replace a defective unit, with an apology for your inconvenience. Not the current business model.
MicI understand your frustration, but what's the point in them sending out replacement product until they know they've corrected the issue? My experience in the consumer electronics industry leads me to believe this will be resolved in the consumers favor. The manufacturer has acknowledged the issue, is actively testing a solution, and has stated they would take care of affected customers. Perhaps this is not all taking place on an ideal timeline, but it is in the works, which is better than many manufacturers I deal with on far more expensive, mission critical components.

[Steven Vaccaro]

There are also people with problem esc's and people with setup issues.

For example, I had a customer that will remain nameless, he is a forum member and can chime in if he likes.

He had on/off problems, he then bought a hydra 240 with data logging and found out his setups were very high current. one of them 240 amps, and the other 260-300 amps. So in his case I believe the esc may have shut down correctly.

IM NOT trying to diminish the issue, but every case does need to be checked.

[Revolt Flash]

There are also people with problem esc's and people with setup issues.

For example, I had a customer that will remain nameless, he is a forum member and can chime in if he likes.

He had on/off problems, he then bought a hydra 240 with data logging and found out his setups were very high current. one of them 240 amps, and the other 260-300 amps. So in his case I believe the esc may have shut down correctly.

IM NOT trying to diminish the issue, but every case does need to be checked.

That would be me Steven is talking about.

[cocos710]

OK, thanks!

[donhuff]

OK ,so I sent in an RMA request that BTW was pretty long with a ton of questions that have nothing to do with boats, but is aimed mostly at car setups. They sent me a message back saying that since I bought these units from OSE that they WERE NOT eligable for an RMA warrenty request! Thats because OSE, IS NOT an authorized dealer/distributor. BUT, they said they would make an exception for me "this time"!

This does not sound like a company that KNOWS it has a bad product, and wants to make it right. I hope I'm wrong about this.
Or maybe, Charlie has not communicated to them about the problem.

[donhuff]

I rec a email back from Hobby Wing, they asked me to test an esc with this issue. Unfortunately I had one here but cant find it right now. They are trying to narrow down if its a lvc issue. See below.

"If you want to test whether yours' problem comes from the LVC,you can test with the LVC function off totally,not just turn down,which function caused the power cut off will be obviously."

ALSO If you bought a Seaking 180 from OSE that has this cut out issue, please email me directly so I can start a list.

info@offshoreelectrics.com






Hi Steven,

Doug Smock and I tried that on the ones I have. It had NO effect on the problem at all. It made me think that my program box was not working. Thats why I ordered the fancy LCD box, and then found out that it does not work with the boat ESCs.

BTW Doug has one of the six cap versions for a friends build he is doing. He tried it Yesterday and it ran ok. But this was in a limited setup and I'm not sure that is enough to make them act up, cause I can run mine at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and they do ok. We should have put it in a full P but this was at a race and there is always something else going on, and we were sorta pushed for time.

[racerr73]

Hi Guys,

Has there been any further updates with the full throttle cutting out problem on these new seaking v3's, a member purchased a new one a fortnight ago and it is playing up on him when on full throttle after only 1.5 - 2 laps, everything is cold electronic wise as its not a hot set up.

Thanks
Trev

[bob horowitz]

I had a similar problem on a 2s setup. On the advice of some of the more knowledgeable people on this forum I hooked up a separate battery to power the rx and the esc. That solved the problem for me. This told me I was having a kind of brown out of my control voltage. I then bypassed the internal bec and connected an external bec directly to my power batteries, and this worked just as well as a separate rx pack. Again this was a 2s setup. I don't know if this helps, but it's worth a try. Don't forgot to disconnect the red wire from the ESC to the rx.
Bob

[racerr73]

Hi Bob,

Thanks for your reply, a separate rx pack has solved the problem.

Trev

[bob horowitz]

Trev,
Glad it worked. Like I said, it did the trick for me.
Bob

[zooma]

Hi Bob,

Thanks for your reply, a separate rx pack has solved the problem.

Trev
I have been going nuts with this problem today. That is good news. I'll try a 4.8v RX battery pack next week.

Are there any more owners who solved the problem with an RX batt or external BEC?

[Mrlocky]

Yes. That was me Trev was talking about a few post back.

I had tried everything. Even tried lifting the strut to get the nose up more until it couldn't bite.
I ended up with a 6v 1600mah pack hooked into the rx and it solved the issue straight away.

Now that it runs I was able to race over the weekend and after a 5 lap race I still have 45% battery left and really cool Temps. Easy to say amp draw was not an issue in my case.

Cheers
Locky

[RCKong]

Hey guys I'm just gonna put this out there for you that the V3 T180's are JUNK... I've been round and round with HK on this. they have replaced 3 of the 4 defective V3 ESC and I've scraped running them period. Every one in our club is or has had problems with these so save yourself a few bucks and the trouble. I've cleaned out BURN residue from my P-Mono Now 3 times from this POS ESC...:flame42:

[Mrlocky]

Hi all just to add some more info.
Even though i got my boat to run fine with a separate battery pack to the rx mine will still only run with a 70c battery. Also propped up some more until coming in with 30% left after a race.

On the weekend some fellow racers loaned me a set of batteries to run a final as i only had the one pack and didnt have time to charge. Ended up on my lid in the last heat and didnt require them for the final anyway.
After racing i went to run the packs down and because of a slightly lower C rating the esc still cut off again.
Conclusion from that was that a high c rated pack is still required regardless.

Cheers
Locky

[topfuel443]

Well, after reading for an hour about this, it seems we still have no solution.

I have the EXACT problem as Don and Mic, and cant get these damn things to work. Don or Mic, have you guys made any progress on the V3 ESCs?

[Steven Vaccaro]

Well, after reading for an hour about this, it seems we still have no solution.

I have the EXACT problem as Don and Mic, and cant get these damn things to work. Don or Mic, have you guys made any progress on the V3 ESCs?I'm not saying you don't have an esc problem because it's impossible to say from this side of a monitor. But This was a big problem when the first v3 esc's came out. It was resolved. The only issues I've seen since then I have been instances where the esc's were over amped and shut down or weak packs were used.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[topfuel443]

Steven, I’m not buying it. I have 4 of these V3s and they are all various versions of V3. I also have 3 of the V2’s and none of them have this issue. They are all on the same exact setup. 4082 Leopard, 1600kv, M445 props with brand New (literally brand new) 75C Graphene 6000 MAH 6S lipos. I’ve run the V2s with this exact setup for 7 years with zero issues. I’m talking about race conditions, not just playing out at the lake.

I talked to Don Huff about it, I’ve talked to Mic Halbrehder about it, I’ve talked to Doug Smock about it. It’s an issue, and Turnigy/Hobby King hasn’t done anything to fix it apparently.

I wish I had known beforehand, I would not have wasted $500 on 4 of these ESCs. It is what it is, now I know. But there is most definitely an ESC problem.

[zooma]

Yeah. I won't buy another Seaking 180 V3 until there are multiple reports of success. Amazing that the manufacturer just won't come up with a version that works. POS.

[ray schrauwen]

Too bad we can't get V2 back. They are shooting themselves in the foot.

[ray schrauwen]

I asked for one and they said they no longer make them. If we or someone asks for 100 or more, maybe they will make a batch?

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/esc-SK180A2-180A-Brushless-ESC-for_249520370.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.norm alList.241.28eb5e77oObHqO

[topfuel443]

Ive got 3 of those Ray and they are bullet proof. Ive been running them for years in my race boats. Too bad the V3's fall short.

[Panther6834]

I see there have been no updates related to the 'ESC early shutdown' problem in over a year. Does that mean the problem has been completely resolved? Or, does this problem still occur? Does the firmware need to be updated to a certain version (or higher), and, if so, what is the minimum firmware version number? Speaking of firmware, can the 180 V3's firmware even be updated?

Moving over to the programming side of things, do both programming devices (ie. Multifunction LCD Professional Program Box, Program Card for Seaking Boat ESCs) work with the 180 V3, or does only one of these work (and, if so, which one)? Going another route...not sure if anyone has even attempted this...can the Hobbywing WiFi Express Module be used for programming (and updating the firmware)? I've read that the WiFi Module can be used with certain HW Seaking ESCs, but I haven't found anything indicating specifically which Seaking ESCs. As I have off-road vehicles, I already have the Multifunction LCD Box, as well as the WiFi Module, and I'm hoping that at least one of them can be used with the 180 V3.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

[Scott T]

Going by the Hobbywing website, only the older LED program box can be used (click on Specifications). http://www.hobbywing.com/goods.php?id=409&filter_attr=6639.6640

Their newer Pro series marine ESCs can use the LCD box or WiFi.

[eric113]

I bought a 180 V3 off a club member. I was running with Leo 4070 1650kv on 4s no problems. Switch the motor to TP 4050 2300kv motor on 4s(yes I realize TP are amp hogs) I started to have cutting out problems. It would run then stop. Then I could go again. I added a bec, seeing if that would help with the cutting out. It was still cutting out. I really wish seaking would remake the V3?s back to V2?s and make them a pro model. Also wish they would up it to 200amp.

[donhuff]

Eric, since you increased the peak rpm of the motor by almost 10,000 rpm, I hope you reduced the diameter of the prop by about 10 mm.

And I'm curious as to why you say the TPs are "amp hogs" ? I guess it's because you have read this before. I keep hearing this about different brands, but I never hear any reasoning for anyone saying this.

[fweasel]

I bought a 180 V3 off a club member. I was running with Leo 4070 1650kv on 4s no problems. Switch the motor to TP 4050 2300kv motor on 4s(yes I realize TP are amp hogs) I started to have cutting out problems. It would run then stop. Then I could go again. I added a bec, seeing if that would help with the cutting out. It was still cutting out. I really wish seaking would remake the V3?s back to V2?s and make them a pro model. Also wish they would up it to 200amp.
As don mentioned, hopefully you propped down. What is the LVC set to? Your batteries may be experiencing more voltage sag on the new setup and tripping the LVC too early. I've had trouble with overly sensitive LVC on the V3 ESC, and usualy just disable it by default since I time my runs.

[eric113]

Eric, since you increased the peak rpm of the motor by almost 10,000 rpm, I hope you reduced the diameter of the prop by about 10 mm.

And I'm curious as to why you say the TPs are "amp hogs" ? I guess it's because you have read this before. I keep hearing this about different brands, but I never hear any reasoning for anyone saying this.

When I went to TP motor I had been trying different props out.

I'm being like everyone out there saying the TP's can pull alot amps.


As don mentioned, hopefully you propped down. What is the LVC set to? Your batteries may be experiencing more voltage sag on the new setup and tripping the LVC too early. I've had trouble with overly sensitive LVC on the V3 ESC, and usualy just disable it by default since I time my runs.
Like I said been trying out different props. I disable the LVC and still cutting out on me even with bec.

My friend has same boat and setup, only difference between our setup is he running Turnigy 180 V2 esc and has no cutting out issues.

We are heat racing though.

[donhuff]

"I'm being like everyone out there saying the TP's can pull alot amps."

Eric, there's a big difference saying that a motor is an amp hog, and it CAN HANDLE a lot of amps. And I agree with that statement that yes, the TPs CAN handle more amps than the typical Chinese motor can.

The TPs have better wire in them and more of it. Not really the actual copper quality, although I wouldn't doubt that it is inferior in the cheap motors. But it's the quality, and the temperature rating of the insulation on that wire.

And there are reasons why they would use the inferior wire.


But to your problem, the only fix that I found was to throw the damn thing in the trash, and get a castle. And I had 4 of them. I only have one left and the reason I keep it is because I only use it to test motors on the bench after rewinding them. I don't have a way to load the motor on the bench YET. And If a rewind wasn't just right, and were to burn up the Seaking, well, I wouldn't shed a single tear. Then for testing, I'll move on to my next most hated esc, my MGMs.

[eric113]

"I'm being like everyone out there saying the TP's can pull alot amps."

Eric, there's a big difference saying that a motor is an amp hog, and it CAN HANDLE a lot of amps. And I agree with that statement that yes, the TPs CAN handle more amps than the typical Chinese motor can.

The TPs have better wire in them and more of it. Not really the actual copper quality, although I wouldn't doubt that it is inferior in the cheap motors. But it's the quality, and the temperature rating of the insulation on that wire.

And there are reasons why they would use the inferior wire.


But to your problem, the only fix that I found was to throw the damn thing in the trash, and get a castle. And I had 4 of them. I only have one left and the reason I keep it is because I only use it to test motors on the bench after rewinding them. I don't have a way to load the motor on the bench YET. And If a rewind wasn't just right, and were to burn up the Seaking, well, I wouldn't shed a single tear. Then for testing, I'll move on to my next most hated esc, my MGMs.

I was able to find a castle XL2 esc and have it converted watercooled. It nice to be able to data log.

[Marley-Buster]

I am looking at the a TFL ZONDA with 3674 2075KV motors and the Seaking 180 ESC?s. I plan on running 2x6S. Am I going to have problems with this setup cutting out?

[tbonemcniel]

I am looking at the a TFL ZONDA with 3674 2075KV motors and the Seaking 180 ESC?s. I plan on running 2x6S. Am I going to have problems with this setup cutting out?

Not if it's propped reasonably and you cut one of the ESC positive wires going to the receiver. The SK180's are fine, until you get close to their limits, then one or both will start to cut out. That just means you need a bigger ESC.

[Marley-Buster]

Thanks for your help. I didn?t know about cutting one of the positive wires.