SG-121-H unlimited hydro build.

[CatBoi]

Hello, its been quite awhile...

building a 1/8 scale F.E. unlimited hull. RCboat Company's SG121-H.

I am considering power options.. I have been out of it for a few years so any suggestions are welcome!

I was thinking- a neu 2215? 8-10 cells? 200 amp esc or more?

?

I think this was the last boat I built...

[RayR]

Welcome back Sandy,

Most of the 1/8th scale folks are running a Neu 1527 1.5Y on 10S or a 1530 1Y on 8 or 9S. A 200+ amp HV speedo is the norm. If you don't care about the competition scene, the motor choices are almost limitless. Which livery will you be modeling? I am certain it will look as fantastic as all of your previous builds.

If you need any further assistance, feel free to give me a shout.

All the best,

Ray

[CatBoi]

ok, thanks for the info...so to refresh my neu motor memory, 1y produces more rpm than 1.5y? I kinda forgot what that meant...

here is the ambitious paint scheme-

[Agitator]

The 1530 1Y is 1100 rpm per kv=on 8s=32500 rpm with a fairly high amp draw. 1527 1.5Y is 850kv-on 10s=31450 rpm with less amp draw. cooler and more efficient. Most of us use a 1/4" drive cable with a 3/16" step down on the prop.
Mike McKnight@Thunderboat Graphics should have those graphics available in a few months.

[CatBoi]

ok, thank you all for the infos! another question is what is the average size packs they run, 4000, 5000?

[Agitator]

6000mah, if you can get them in. These are Giant Power 6000mah 5s packs in my ML Boatworks '89 Winston Lobster. With Steve's hull, you have to build a watertight box for everything-batteries-motor-scu-Rx, etc. Batteries should go in the bow as far forward as possible. 144680

[CatBoi]

does anyone have a photo of thier set-up they would like to share? motor, esc, etc...

[CatBoi]

Power plant, Neu 1527 . Hull should be here in a week or so..

[nichismo]

Hey Catboi, I actually have the exact same hull from Steve and have been on a very long project with it for a very long time now. Im sure I can at the very least provide you with some decent insight on anything you need to know regarding an electric powerplant in this hull.

For starters, I must say that im actually building the boat to replicate the U-88/U-37 drop sponson hull that Billy Schumacher owns, so this hull as pulled from Steves molds is far from correct in this perspective, and in addition to a few other specific characteristics of the hull that I wasnt keen on (regardless of the full size boat I chose) led me to do a very extensive list of modifcations to make it right.

Also, in my opinion, Steve implemented a somewhat outdated design philosophy for this style of hull when it comes to the bottom of the hull, and even worse, the hull is EXTREMELY HEAVY. When it was shipped to me, the package was over 15lbs.... I also own a Phil Thomas T5 and I dont remember what that package weighed when I received it, but the bare hull was about 6lbs.... So this led to even more substantial modifications on my part, but in the end, im still satisfied at this point. On a positive note, Steve uses excellent materials and does a good job cleaning up the hull overall before he sends it. The wing mounts are fantastic, quality flotation is already installed in virtually every spot possible, and aside from the underside of the hull as mentioned, the overall aesthetics and scale accuracy of the boat is superb, specifically the front curves and shapes of the boat (im a fickler for sponson shape and cockpit shape, and he really nailed these parts).

I have a ton of pictures if you need any, starting from the moment I began opening the packaging until now. Heres a picture of the most recent mock-up I did with all the components, except the ESC which ill be placing in a compartment I made on the starboard side of the boat. I should note that in this picture, I had already opened up the radio box area by removing the enclosing wall to make the tub open all the way through the length of the hull...... and then i proceedingly removed virtually all of the tub and floor between the cockpit and rear strut area.....The floor section that runs from the nitro engine mounted blocks he has epoxied into the hull towards the back was 1.25 pounds alone.... Since then ive closed the tub back up with plywood.

Let me know if you have any other questions, im happy to help if I can. BTW, that motor mount configuration pictured is excellent, you need a narrow setup similar to that for these boats. and as stated already, its absolutely critical that you get the batteries as far foward as possible. Thankfully with this particular hull, the radio box is already big enough to fit a 10s, 5500mah setup as molded.

http://cdn.intlwaters.com/uploads/monthly_03_2016/post-21450-0-84163800-1458139809.jpg
http://cdn.intlwaters.com/uploads/monthly_03_2016/post-21450-0-43804500-1458139808.jpg
http://cdn.intlwaters.com/uploads/monthly_02_2016/post-21450-0-87393800-1456203376.jpg

[CatBoi]

Ok,

We start with the bare hull as supplied from RC Boat Company... Most of the parts I got from OSE or other sources.


We Start by dry fitting everything, starting with the batteries. There is enough room to move the packs back and forth about 2 inches so fine tuning the balance should easier this way. I choose to mount the motor mid-ship as to keep the model balanced and driveshaft short. I can always add a few ounces of lead to the nose if needed, but taking weight off would be much harder... this also allows room for the esc to be mid mounted between batteries and motor keeping the power leads as short as possible....

[CatBoi]

Next, I re-made the motor mount rails from scrap 3mm carbon fiber so I could bond them to the floor easier than the alu plates...

[CatBoi]

Now you can see the layout a bit better, only a slight notch was needed to produce a good fit for the motor, carbon was added to the floor during the layup process.

I had to close up the battery box area so scrap fiberglass was used to make the filler panels.

[CatBoi]

The stock brass cooling tubes we replaced with larger stainless steel lines and their position adjusted for F.E. .

A small carbon back up plate was used for the exits.

[CatBoi]

Let's move onto some part fitment... the turbine tray was enhanced with carbon fiber and west system epoxy to stiffen it.

[CatBoi]

I decided to cut the cockpit free and make separate sections of the cowl using carbon bulkheads made from scraps.
The cockpit is attached separately from the main cowl as per the full size boat. A lot of patience and care used here , more on the cowl later....

[CatBoi]

Ok,

Now onto the fins and wings... this is bit involved, they will be attached to the stock mounting tabs which are very clever, using 3mm blind nuts and nylon bolts. I used carbon fiber here again to stiffen and add strength. 4mm carbon tubes add further bracing attached with BVM epoxy.This is superior epoxy I used in all my builds.

You can see here in the last photo the little 1mm thick carbon squares, this is used to bolster the mounting bolt area to prevent the glass from ripping out in a blow-over. Also, scale spacing is used to space the fins off the deck, they dont touch here about a 3/16 gap is used.

Important: a slight extra gap is used just about everywhere since this model will be painted with 3 part system using clear coat, so the extra space will be needed.

Also in photo 2, you can see the 2mm thick carbon band added to mounting tab for blind nuts.

[CatBoi]

The blind nuts on mounting tab can be seen here more closely in the 1st photo.

The fin brace tabs were mounted in a scale way using s.s. hardware only.

[CatBoi]

All of the wings get the same treatment, carbon cloth, carbon spar (tube) and s.s. hardware.
Plus flotation foam where needed.
A 1mm thick carbon bulkhead is made for the wing using 3mm blind nuts for attachment points, 2 are used per side, later mounted with
3mm nylon bolts.

[CatBoi]

The Canard wing mounting tabs, carbon fiber and flotation foam with alu bracket using carbon back up plate for added strength. later the alu bracket will get shaped more completely.

More of the fins and wings getting their foam and final assembly.

[CatBoi]

Briefly, the struts mounted in their final position. Prop strut is scale and mounted even with transom.

[CatBoi]

Here is the scale strut mounted with countersunk holes...

[CatBoi]

More on foam in the wings.

[CatBoi]

The rear compartment bulkhead made from 1mm thick carbon fiber sheet. Here you can also see the 1/8" carbon square tube used to support the turbine tray. Motor is now glued into place on its mount.

[CatBoi]

The cockpit needs to be rasied to fit the way I am mounting the cowl..the cowl will float slightly over the deck instead of touching it directly. A gasket will prevent chafing. the spacer is used and made from carbon fiber sheet 1mm thick. Here you can also see the cockpit mounting pin... the end of this pin gets taped with the hatch to keep it in. A small fiberglass box seals the area from dripping into battery compartment not shown yet. A carbon tab with brass bushing is glued to canopy to key into this slot an grab the pin... very tight and secure!
the carbon plate by the pin end, just squares off the hatch area for easier taping.

Here you can see in the last two photos, the rear cowl mounts with clevis pins and back up plates glued to cowl, the front of the cowl is located with 2mm pins like the front of the cockpit.

[CatBoi]

More on the back up plates and cowl.

Also the rear plate for hatch added with turbine tray in place.

[CatBoi]

The snorkel was made to be removable, yet very strong when mounted. Using 3mm tabs of carbon and spacers, this system is used to mount the snorkel now with 3mm blind nuts and bolts.

Here you can also see the impression made using packing tape and BVM epoxy to mate the two parts together when mounted... this is a touchy area because it has to look good when no snorkel is in place as well.

1/64" ply added to main cowl to finish intake. Front mounting pins shown in last photo.

[bob horowitz]

Sandy,
Impressive workmanship and attention to detail.
Bob

[ray schrauwen]

Hey Catboi, I actually have the exact same hull from Steve and have been on a very long project with it for a very long time now. Im sure I can at the very least provide you with some decent insight on anything you need to know regarding an electric powerplant in this hull.

For starters, I must say that im actually building the boat to replicate the U-88/U-37 drop sponson hull that Billy Schumacher owns, so this hull as pulled from Steves molds is far from correct in this perspective, and in addition to a few other specific characteristics of the hull that I wasnt keen on (regardless of the full size boat I chose) led me to do a very extensive list of modifcations to make it right.

Also, in my opinion, Steve implemented a somewhat outdated design philosophy for this style of hull when it comes to the bottom of the hull, and even worse, the hull is EXTREMELY HEAVY. When it was shipped to me, the package was over 15lbs.... I also own a Phil Thomas T5 and I dont remember what that package weighed when I received it, but the bare hull was about 6lbs.... So this led to even more substantial modifications on my part, but in the end, im still satisfied at this point. On a positive note, Steve uses excellent materials and does a good job cleaning up the hull overall before he sends it. The wing mounts are fantastic, quality flotation is already installed in virtually every spot possible, and aside from the underside of the hull as mentioned, the overall aesthetics and scale accuracy of the boat is superb, specifically the front curves and shapes of the boat (im a fickler for sponson shape and cockpit shape, and he really nailed these parts).

I have a ton of pictures if you need any, starting from the moment I began opening the packaging until now. Heres a picture of the most recent mock-up I did with all the components, except the ESC which ill be placing in a compartment I made on the starboard side of the boat. I should note that in this picture, I had already opened up the radio box area by removing the enclosing wall to make the tub open all the way through the length of the hull...... and then i proceedingly removed virtually all of the tub and floor between the cockpit and rear strut area.....The floor section that runs from the nitro engine mounted blocks he has epoxied into the hull towards the back was 1.25 pounds alone.... Since then ive closed the tub back up with plywood.

Let me know if you have any other questions, im happy to help if I can. BTW, that motor mount configuration pictured is excellent, you need a narrow setup similar to that for these boats. and as stated already, its absolutely critical that you get the batteries as far foward as possible. Thankfully with this particular hull, the radio box is already big enough to fit a 10s, 5500mah setup as molded.
]

What kv HET motor did you pick?

[CatBoi]

The Turbine exhaust made from sheet alu .019" thick. a crimp holds it together.

[CatBoi]

Here you can see the 1/4" square carbon tube that makes up the lip of the water tight compartment for motor-esc. Also shown is the 1/8 tube for holding up the turbine tray.
The motor cover is made from 1mm carbon sheet bent and formed to clear the motor tilt. The tape will now run from the deck to the lid seamlessly for a great seal.

[CatBoi]

More on the motor cover...will be sanded then cleared. BVM epoxy is run on the seams underneath-not shown.

[CatBoi]

The turn fin is enhanced with a scale -like brace. Not fully scale, but it works extremely well and is easily adjustable via the turnbuckles. Alu control horns are added with carbon plate for a very stiff mounting.
Zero flex!

[CatBoi]

This is just a better shot of the cockpit spacer and finished inside of the battery compartment.

[CatBoi]

Front Canard wing and ram wing completed and mounted. s.s. hardware is used here as well.

[CatBoi]

The STS from Aeromarine, used to keep water out and the shaft lubed. Love this product.

the others are fuel dots from central hobbies, I use them in boats as dry out ports... they will be placed in the wet area under the turbine tray so the boat can be aired out from time to time.

[CatBoi]

The drive shaft system installed. Super short which I like... the motor angle is very flat which is an added bonus.

[CatBoi]

Here is a better shot of the shaft arrangement- no Teflon is used.
11/32 Hull tube,3/8 stuffing tube, 5/16 shaft tube.

[CatBoi]

Hull vent installed both sides...Wing made adjustable...

[CatBoi]

Rudder Servo and mount. A carbon fiber pushrod will be used with 3mm ball links.

[meangenesracing]

Rudder Servo and mount. A carbon fiber pushrod will be used with 3mm ball links.

where did you get the servo mount looks nice

[CatBoi]

Parts going to primer... Alu parts going to Anodizer. Only the E.S.C. to mount now...Probably going with a big Etti.

Carbon fiber rudder pushrod from Central Hobbies, Servo Holder from Esprit model.

Ok, its going to slow down for a bit now while I begin the painting process. I would rather build several hulls, than paint just one!
Painting is very labor intensive considering time for body work, priming and prepping.

[CatBoi]

The final body work and windshield frames going into place.

[CatBoi]

ready for paint!

[lambo]

Catboi,
Looking awesome, can you post a picture showing how the waterproof hatches and the cowlings are configured. I see that you made a motor cover, this gets [taped] down? Did you do the same under the cockpit?

[CatBoi]

Yes, Here is the completed cover. the rear area under the turbine tray is a wet area, only the two front compartments (as one now) are sealed.

[CatBoi]

PROBLEM! (time to back track- ugh! )

Building so many aspects of the model, I overlooked the drop down pan in the turbine tray when placing the rudder servo... I thought I had enough clearance but the tray does not lie! So I made a recessed mount from Carbon sheet, watertight and allowing the servo to drop down and stay out of the way. New cooling lines were installed as the old ones were in the way and now too short. I wanted to keep the pushrod short and stout. So I doubled up on the tubes to create a very stiff pushrod with titanium ends (central hobbies).

This is a very cramped space but I drew the divide line at the turbine tray for the radio- motor compartment. So keeping enough room to swing wrenches on the collet was important and the rudder is on the scale side of the boat so this made it tough to fit it all in and still have ample room. Again I needed to keep the pushrod short and front area of the compartment clear for the ESC and cooling lines. so the pretty blue servo holder goes in the next model :) no room for it here.

[CatBoi]

Here is the finished pushrod one tube glued over the other. You can see the outline of the turbine tray in the last shot, and new pushrod exit which works far better now. Glad I caught it before paint! Now to finish up up cleaning up the hull, sanding, scrubbing clean and masking off for the first color-white. All colors will be over white to make them pop. Found a great blue, a perfect match so it should be looking very close. All of the inner compartments get gloss black or maybe something else.....?

[CatBoi]

getting the white on....

[worthing3104]

Been following your build and it's nice to see what tricks you've come up with and it's helping me in figuering out how I'm solving situations, I'm in the process of building the 1991 Winston Eagle.
You do nice work and hope that at least my white coat turns out that good. Great job! and looking forward to the finished product.

[CatBoi]

Thank you!

The hull with white. I used alu supports screwed the motor mount and strut holes, then attached to a 2x4 , then that is slid into a weighted ladder. Makes the perfect paint stand.

[worthing3104]

That's killer!! Did you paint that in your garage? Thinking about setting up a paint booth in my garage but it's windy here in Las Vegas most days. Pretty sure I can pull it off though, will do the white and red and add the graphics but have a buddy that owns a auto body shop and will probably have him do the final clear coat,

Would love to see some videos of your boat running when you finish.

Do you have any idea what props your going to try out, When I had my Circus Circus an Octura X457 was my go to prop but was running a os80 nitro engine back then. Would like to know what your prop of choice is when you get it dialed in.

[CatBoi]

Actually RC Boat company has a recommended prop to start with...when I get there I will post it.

Blue going on...really pops over the white.

[CatBoi]

black is next...

[romspacenut]

Awesome job and progress. Can't wait for the final product.

[worthing3104]

Sweet!! What brand of paint did you use?

[CatBoi]

center section painted.

Dupont Nason Urethane system is used.

[CatBoi]

tape off, now to trim stripes...

carbon parts in center section will be clear coated later...

[CatBoi]

More taping and masking for the Black stripe but now it is ready for graphics and details.

[CatBoi]

The windshield is marked and cut using tape as a guide.... access hatches painted on deck for an extra detail, these will die down a bit under the clear.

the windshield will be masked for painted borders around the glass before final install. More on this soon.

[CatBoi]

A better shot of the windshield tape off method.

a cut out panel which it taped down during a run, is removable allowing access to air out or clean the glazing from time to time. a drive head can be added here as well.

[CatBoi]

re cut the exhaust and added some detail...

[CatBoi]

some parts clear coated....

[worthing3104]

Looking Good!!

[CatBoi]

ok, the outer surface of the windows are sanded with 1200 paper, then masked off for the black border, once dry the border is scuffed with scotch brite fine pad, then the whole window and border are cleared at once.
You can remove minor flaws in the lexan with this method, and they stay clear and glossy for many years more than untreated lexan. The first photo is the finished result.

[CatBoi]

the turbine tray completed, an off-black custom color was used to match the heat deflector, this area will be wetsanded dull in the final stage.

[worthing3104]

Hey Catboi,
What's your set up going to be (motor-neu1527),esc and batteries (in series or parallel)?

[CatBoi]

10S, 200-300 amp esc..

painted bottom pads,waiting on graphics.

[CatBoi]

Graphics due next week !:banana:

parts are gloss anodized and ready for installation...just gotta get the graphics on and clear before that can happen.

[worthing3104]

Very nice!...Can't wait to see it all assembled.

[bob horowitz]

Who did you have do the anodizing? Really nice job.
Bob

[CatBoi]

http://www.qualityanodizing.com/

Here is the stand, made from ply.

[WestJL21]

:popcorn2:

[CatBoi]

Still waiting on graphics, was told they would ship weeks ago!

[JimClark]

Let me guess Mike?

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

[lambo]

Throw us a bone, post some more pics of the work in progress.

[CatBoi]

Well, graphics shipped, due next week.

Here is the turn fin assembled.

still need- ESC, thinking of MGM?
Water cooling hose.
bag of money.

[lambo]

very nice, how about some more pics of the hull -top, front, back, side, etc.

[CatBoi]

see post 75.

In the interim, here is a hull I did about 20 years ago... still holding up well,Aero-Marine hull with .67 CMB power.
This is long before Graphics were available, they gave you a plan sheet of the layout which was nice, but that's it.
all the graphics I hand painted using variegated gold leaf and pin stripe paint with a brush. Very tedious. I sold off the motor which had an carl brey exhaust throttle and mixture control-still with boat-.

[meangenesracing]

Man, you got mad skills

[CatBoi]

Ok, finally my favorite part begins!

[MrUnlimited]

Looks great!

[CatBoi]

very close now- some more parts cleared...

[Shooter]

Hey Sandy,

What clear coat do you use?

Thx.

[CatBoi]

dupont select clear-

hull shot today!

[meangenesracing]

dupont select clear-

hull shot today!

Nice idea on the bracket for painting. can you tell me how you got it secured to the boat?

[Speed810]

Morning Sandy....

Been following your build and I love the workmanship on this boat. I built an ML Boatworks 171 extreme 1/8 scale Elam kit a few years ago, so I know the work and detail that goes into these boats and yours truly reflects the work of a craftsman.

I also built this boat around the NEU 1527 1.5Y, 10S. (A few pictures attached)

The boat did turn out heavy though, so I am really interested to see if you could share a ready to run weight /w batteries? Be great to see when you get it running. I started with an X450 (3) cupped and it runs pretty good on that. But tried going to an X452 (3) worked by Andy Brown was just to much for the 1527 and the weight of the boat. Ended up burning up both the motor and Etti ESC last summer.

So have been looking at other motor options. Just thought it would be interesting to see the overall weight of yours and how the performance is.

Keep up the awesome work!!

Mike

[CatBoi]

wicked nice! You know, I have not weighed it yet, but it is much lighter than it looks.. I only added a few bits of carbon fiber to the main hull,so we will see...

Here is the final on the exhaust- deflector -stack.Just gotta build the air damm for sponson and the outside is done, still need an ESC.

[lambo]

I love the access panels!

[meangenesracing]

Morning Sandy....

Been following your build and I love the workmanship on this boat. I built an ML Boatworks 171 extreme 1/8 scale Elam kit a few years ago, so I know the work and detail that goes into these boats and yours truly reflects the work of a craftsman.

I also built this boat around the NEU 1527 1.5Y, 10S. (A few pictures attached)

The boat did turn out heavy though, so I am really interested to see if you could share a ready to run weight /w batteries? Be great to see when you get it running. I started with an X450 (3) cupped and it runs pretty good on that. But tried going to an X452 (3) worked by Andy Brown was just to much for the 1527 and the weight of the boat. Ended up burning up both the motor and Etti ESC last summer.

So have been looking at other motor options. Just thought it would be interesting to see the overall weight of yours and how the performance is.

Keep up the awesome work!!

Mike
what's the total weight with batteries I'm doing the squire shop

[Speed810]

what's the total weight with batteries I'm doing the squire shop

Evening meangen.....The total weight came in at just under 20lbs. Actually 19lbs 10oz. Was thinking of going to a bigger power plant (TP 5660 840kv) but then I put myself outside the motor rules in IMPBA to race it. So thinking I'll stick with the 1527 and really start tweaking things to get some better speed. If I can come close to 60 I think it's very competitive at those speeds. There's a lot of talk in the IMPBA rules forum right now looking at the motor rule. Lot of good points from a lot of good 1/8 scale builders and drivers.

I think you'll be fine weight wise with the Squire boat. That appears to be a much lighter hull. I know Doug Smock has that boat and it's is fast. I've actually thought of just picking up an 8255 1/8 kit from Mike and build that in the KISW boat. Mike said that is a fast boat also with the 1527 power plant.

What are your thoughts? Be interesting to hear back.

Mike

[meangenesracing]

Evening meangen.....The total weight came in at just under 20lbs. Actually 19lbs 10oz. Was thinking of going to a bigger power plant (TP 5660 840kv) but then I put myself outside the motor rules in IMPBA to race it. So thinking I'll stick with the 1527 and really start tweaking things to get some better speed. If I can come close to 60 I think it's very competitive at those speeds. There's a lot of talk in the IMPBA rules forum right now looking at the motor rule. Lot of good points from a lot of good 1/8 scale builders and drivers.

I think you'll be fine weight wise with the Squire boat. That appears to be a much lighter hull. I know Doug Smock has that boat and it's is fast. I've actually thought of just picking up an 8255 1/8 kit from Mike and build that in the KISW boat. Mike said that is a fast boat also with the 1527 power plant.

What are your thoughts? Be interesting to hear back.

Mike

hello Mike, I have been in touch with Doug he's been a lot of help with my setup. I'm still in the process of final build stage not sure of total weight I'm running a new 1527 1.5y with a etti 220 esc and 2 5s 5000 mah batteries. I need to get scale to get the weight will keep you posted thanks, geno

[CatBoi]

Final Paint shots...Still need to finish rigging ESC and a few other items.

[CatBoi]

Bit more..

[CatBoi]

bit more...

[CatBoi]

Last one for now...

[JimClark]

Very nicely done

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

[worthing3104]

That's beautiful...nice work!!

[fweasel]

Amazing.

[WestJL21]

I hope there's more to come, video ? Beautiful !!! :drool:

[Speed810]

Eugene......Simply Amazing and Beautiful!! The attention to detail is outstanding. Can't wait to see the video! Don't forget to get a weight for me...LOL

[romspacenut]

Beautiful work!

[meangenesracing]

Eugene......Simply Amazing and Beautiful!! The attention to detail is outstanding. Can't wait to see the video! Don't forget to get a weight for me...LOL

you do know this is not my boat correct? I could never do this great of a masterpiece

[WestJL21]

:popcorn2:

[worthing3104]

Soo, have you had it in the water yet. Was just wondering how your setup works or what changes you've had to make. I'm really interested in what prop you ended up with.

[CraigP]

That boat is so beautiful, I'd be a bit apprehensive about getting it wet! But every boat is made to run, so let us know!

[Moonie]

Sweet!

[Beaux]

beautiful boat !!!

[Tom G]

The blind nuts on mounting tab can be seen here more closely in the 1st photo.

The fin brace tabs were mounted in a scale way using s.s. hardware only.

Ware did U get those The fin brace tabs

[Tetefroid]

OMG! where did you get those turnbuckles? Me want.

[785boats]

Absolutely beautiful work.

[worthing3104]

Just saw this beauty on Ebay, $4999.00

[WestJL21]

:tiphat:

[centralrcmystic]

What size packs were you able to fit in the nose?

[Tetefroid]

Woa woa woa....back up...how did you bend those landing gear straps that way?

[Fluid]

Woa woa woa....back up...how did you bend those landing gear straps that way?

This is an old thread, the OP won’t see your question. He hasn’t been back to the OSE site since 2017.



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