Delta Force 29 mono

[Mxkid261]

Picked up a df 29 last week. Never put together a mono before so sorry if I have any dumb questions Lol. Got an inlay done over the weekend. Was going to use speedmaster 21 stinger and rudder. Anyone have any suggestions for powering it? Would a leopard 4074 2200kv and t-180 on 4s be an OK setup? Going to just be a sport boat. Any input is appreciated thanks. By the way any pointers on mounting the stinger Im not sure how to measure where the stuffing tube will go through the hull

http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx156/mxkid261/Mobile%20Uploads/image_20.jpeg

http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx156/mxkid261/Mobile%20Uploads/image_19.jpeg

[Jesse J]

Welcome to the build, there are extensive build threads at your disposal on this forum.
You will have best success by doing some research on here and then asking specific questions.
You will get advice from people who have little experience as well as those with lots, so be careful of faulty input. Follow Darin's race prep threads, for example. Also, If fluid ever chimes in, definitely listen to what he says, after all he DID write the book on FE boating! There are plenty of good ways you can go with this boat, have fun!

[Mxkid261]

Finally got some stuff for this darn thing. Should get the hardware mounted and motor tacked in this week. Can't wait to try out the raider ESC.

http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx156/mxkid261/IMG_0229.jpg

[ray schrauwen]

Start with hardware, the turn fins first since they are tightest.

[Beaux]

That is a really good esc.

[Mxkid261]

Start with hardware, the turn fins first since they are tightest.

I didn't get fins yet but I will have room to install them after the stinger and rudder

[boredom.is.me]

Hve you tried threaded backing plates? They eliminate the need for a fiddling with a bunch of nuts and also.eliminate the need for needing to use any tools inside of the hull which is great for tight spots.

[Mxkid261]

Hve you tried threaded backing plates? They eliminate the need for a fiddling with a bunch of nuts and also.eliminate the need for needing to use any tools inside of the hull which is great for tight spots.

I have threaded aluminum stock in a couple of my boats where spaces are very tight. There is plenty of room in this one but I'll still likely build a couple plates just for the added strength

[Mxkid261]

Finally got something done. Stinger and rudder mounted, stuffing tube in, and motor mount tacked in. Also cut some slots in a 2.5mm cf plate for a simple battery tray.

http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx156/mxkid261/IMG_0241.jpg

[fweasel]

Is it just me, or does the angle of the flex cable look a little steep between the end of the stuffing tube and motor collet?

[TRUCKPULL]

The front motor mount - The "V" is sticking up, it should be pointing down into the v of the hull.
This would also lower the motor down into the hull, - giving less bend leading into the stuffing tube.

Larry

[Mxkid261]

Is it just me, or does the angle of the flex cable look a little steep between the end of the stuffing tube and motor collet?

Probably the angle of the picture, it is a pretty gradual bend. Flex spins nice and freely.

[ray schrauwen]

Larry is correct. To each his own.

[Mxkid261]

The front motor mount - The "V" is sticking up, it should be pointing down into the v of the hull.
This would also lower the motor down into the hull, - giving less bend leading into the stuffing tube.

Larry

Thanks. I will flip the face plate and see if I gain anything. The rear of the motor is about as low as it will go in the mount that is why I set it there.

[Mxkid261]

Here is the angle right now. Don't mind the temporary blind nuts. I will try to get the motor lower like you suggested. Thanks Larry

http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx156/mxkid261/IMG_0243.jpg

[ray schrauwen]

What motor did you get? Looks like a tenshock or an eBay motor not Leopard.

[Mxkid261]

What motor did you get? Looks like a tenshock or an eBay motor not Leopard.

I believe it is a rebranded leopard because the box had a part number and then "-Leo" after the number, but I could be wrong. Its a 1400kv 4074 G-force from valuehobby.com. I have their 3674 in my hydro and for $36 it held up great this past summer, just needed some better bearings. This one was only $45 with the cooling jacket, so we'll see how it holds up Lol. Also I flipped the face plate and managed to drop the motor down about 4mm, which is as low as it will physically go. Gave me a little more of a gradual angle now. This is the motor Ray http://www.valuehobby.com/gforce-4074-water-cooled-1400kv.html

http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx156/mxkid261/IMG_0244.jpg

[LarrysDrifter]

Lookin good! :thumbup1:

[Mxkid261]

Got the motor mount, battery tray, and ESC mount epoxied in. Just need to finish the steering and mount up some trim tabs/turn fins. Probably will be closer to when the ice melts that I finish it up. Still trying to decide if I should try a hatch bolt setup, they won't really sit flush on the hatch it looks like.

http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx156/mxkid261/IMG_0249.jpg

[NativePaul]

I would glue the insiders of the motor mount sides as well as the outsides, having double the glue area will make it's attachment much stronger.

[StevenBryant]

I agree with Paul


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[Mxkid261]

I did end up doing the inside later in the night after I pulled the tape on the outside and after I took that picture. I never took the motor out when I did the outside after I had it tacked in, not sure why. Just wasn't thinking at the time clearly, might have been the coors lights haha.