Hydrocarbon82
04-16-2016, 09:18 PM
I recently purchased a PB Shockwave (green version), here's the story so far.
I got it for stupid cheap because it just needed a few parts: motor coupler, flex cable, drive dog, and prop. After purchasing them I was still under half price. After the 2nd battery pack I knew I had a bunch more work left - the flex shaft had ovaled out the stuffing tube where it was wearing on the strut! I was using Lucas wheel bearing grease that exceeds all marine specs, so it's just a horrible design. An aluminum tube?? lol
Anyways I wanted to get capitalize on the weather finally breaking so I figured I'd rig it before going all-out on a plastic hull. They use a 6x5mm aluminum stuffing tube, 5x4mm liner, and 0.150" flex with a 5mm shaft (stepped for a 3/16" prop). I tried a twist on the Speedmaster bearing design to work with this. I drilled out the existing tube halfway into the gummy seal and enlarged the strut to 1/4". I slid a stub of a 1/4"x0.014" K&S tube into the strut & transom hole, then drilled out a 7/32" brass tube to 5mm ID. Several 3s batteries later and it's still working great - FAR less wear than before. The shaft still shows the previous scars but was polished with 1200 grit. I'm making 2 more cross-drilled inserts to improve lubrication, the 1st was made quick and dirty.
Another mod I did right away was to enlarge the strut holder holes so the strut angle was adjustable. If you look close you can see a few degrees vs a stock boat. The old location is visible in the pic with the bearing half installed.
http://i.imgur.com/KHzvTKc.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/60xyw67.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OYXKZ4e.jpg
I also had to make a new motor mount. This was because the Octura coupler was a bit longer than the stock part. I also shortened the stuffing tube so I didn't have to move the motor that far forward.
http://i.imgur.com/L6EmjRD.jpg
Right now it's not that fast since I followed the wrong recommendation on prop. I've tried a 1440 and a y536 (20mph vs 21mph), which are probably a lot better on the OLD Shockwave. I believe the stock prop is actually 1.6"x1.6"; I have an x445 on order since I plan to run 4s and maybe 5s later. I built my own magnetic tire balancer a while back, so I did some work on the y536. The key bits are the white teflon pads in front of the recessed magnets. This balancer is so sensitive and friction-free that it can balance the shaft alone. The shaft is precision-ground 4140 steel from Mcmaster, the magnets china neodymium discs, the rods 1/4-20 stainless, the sides 1/8" 6061.
http://i.imgur.com/EPO8jux.jpg
This was my first time using 3s packs and I was annoyed with the sparks I got upon attaching batteries. I did a method I haven't seen anywhere else: I used the balance lead for the anti-spark connection. I took a 2s balance plug extender, cut it in half, then soldered it on. When I attach a battery, the 100 ohm resistor on the female will charge the ESC slowly. This split plug will work on a 2s the same as a 6s and doesn't need any complicated harness nor procedure. Just connect the balance connector then the main connector. If you worry about it sharing current, just disconnect the hot lead. Works real slick.
http://i.imgur.com/LwUUIni.jpg
You can also see the cheap flysky receiver I replaced the original with. I tried my first waterproofing job with it, so far so good. I used GB-brand liquid electrical tape from Home Cheapo. I did one main coat & a 2nd touch-up to get some spots I missed. It's since been soaked w/o issue.
Yeah, it's a lot of work for a cheap boat but I'm the kind of guy that mods EVERYTHING he owns.
Future mods:
x445 prop
OSE 3/16" flex cable
1/4" stuffing tube with wet well
Seaking 120A ESC
PS: sorry if the pics are a bit big
I got it for stupid cheap because it just needed a few parts: motor coupler, flex cable, drive dog, and prop. After purchasing them I was still under half price. After the 2nd battery pack I knew I had a bunch more work left - the flex shaft had ovaled out the stuffing tube where it was wearing on the strut! I was using Lucas wheel bearing grease that exceeds all marine specs, so it's just a horrible design. An aluminum tube?? lol
Anyways I wanted to get capitalize on the weather finally breaking so I figured I'd rig it before going all-out on a plastic hull. They use a 6x5mm aluminum stuffing tube, 5x4mm liner, and 0.150" flex with a 5mm shaft (stepped for a 3/16" prop). I tried a twist on the Speedmaster bearing design to work with this. I drilled out the existing tube halfway into the gummy seal and enlarged the strut to 1/4". I slid a stub of a 1/4"x0.014" K&S tube into the strut & transom hole, then drilled out a 7/32" brass tube to 5mm ID. Several 3s batteries later and it's still working great - FAR less wear than before. The shaft still shows the previous scars but was polished with 1200 grit. I'm making 2 more cross-drilled inserts to improve lubrication, the 1st was made quick and dirty.
Another mod I did right away was to enlarge the strut holder holes so the strut angle was adjustable. If you look close you can see a few degrees vs a stock boat. The old location is visible in the pic with the bearing half installed.
http://i.imgur.com/KHzvTKc.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/60xyw67.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OYXKZ4e.jpg
I also had to make a new motor mount. This was because the Octura coupler was a bit longer than the stock part. I also shortened the stuffing tube so I didn't have to move the motor that far forward.
http://i.imgur.com/L6EmjRD.jpg
Right now it's not that fast since I followed the wrong recommendation on prop. I've tried a 1440 and a y536 (20mph vs 21mph), which are probably a lot better on the OLD Shockwave. I believe the stock prop is actually 1.6"x1.6"; I have an x445 on order since I plan to run 4s and maybe 5s later. I built my own magnetic tire balancer a while back, so I did some work on the y536. The key bits are the white teflon pads in front of the recessed magnets. This balancer is so sensitive and friction-free that it can balance the shaft alone. The shaft is precision-ground 4140 steel from Mcmaster, the magnets china neodymium discs, the rods 1/4-20 stainless, the sides 1/8" 6061.
http://i.imgur.com/EPO8jux.jpg
This was my first time using 3s packs and I was annoyed with the sparks I got upon attaching batteries. I did a method I haven't seen anywhere else: I used the balance lead for the anti-spark connection. I took a 2s balance plug extender, cut it in half, then soldered it on. When I attach a battery, the 100 ohm resistor on the female will charge the ESC slowly. This split plug will work on a 2s the same as a 6s and doesn't need any complicated harness nor procedure. Just connect the balance connector then the main connector. If you worry about it sharing current, just disconnect the hot lead. Works real slick.
http://i.imgur.com/LwUUIni.jpg
You can also see the cheap flysky receiver I replaced the original with. I tried my first waterproofing job with it, so far so good. I used GB-brand liquid electrical tape from Home Cheapo. I did one main coat & a 2nd touch-up to get some spots I missed. It's since been soaked w/o issue.
Yeah, it's a lot of work for a cheap boat but I'm the kind of guy that mods EVERYTHING he owns.
Future mods:
x445 prop
OSE 3/16" flex cable
1/4" stuffing tube with wet well
Seaking 120A ESC
PS: sorry if the pics are a bit big