New to hydro boat building

[Franksteer]

Just bought a 1/12 blaster hydro from OES, first time builder. Can anyone give me an idea what KV motor and battery combo I can use. Thanks for any help.

[785boats]

I ran mine on 4s with a couple of different motors in the 2200kv range.
A 450/500 size heli outrunner motor 2200kv.
And a DR Madthrust EDF motor. 2960 2200kv
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__29354__Dr_Mad_Thrust_2200kv_1600w_70mm_EDF_Inrun ner_6S_version_29mm_.html

Props were X642 & X440/3 blade.

This might interest you .
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?46549-Blaster&highlight=

Keep us posted on your build.
Cheers.
Paul.

[Franksteer]

Thanks for responding I am going to use a leopard 3650. 2090 kv motor with a octura. X642 prop.with 4s lipos I do have a guestion where do you locate the motor mount in the boat? I guess that's pretty important.

[785boats]

A good choice with the motor. Good kv range. A seaking 120A will be good for the ESC.
Unfortunately I've sold my Blaster, so I can't measure the exact spot for the motor. But there are two positions offered for the motor depending on whether you are using as straight shaft or a bent shaft.
Didn't you get a set of instructions with the kit?
I used the bent shaft but made sure that I could fit 2 x 2s packs on the tub floor in front of the motor.
I did just manage to find the motor layout page so I took a photo of it for you. It also shows the strut angles & drivelines for the two options. And also attatched is a pic of the inrunner motor & mount.
IMPORTANT. Pay close attention the the COG point marked on the drawings. Fit all your gear to achieve that balance point With the hatch on & batteries installed etc.
Cheers.
Paul.

[Franksteer]

Thank you so much, I didn't get any Teck sheet like that in my box, the information you gave me will give me somewhere to start. Still painting the boat so I got a lot of time to think about it. Again thanks.

[785boats]

No worries . Anytime.

Just something to think about though. I always like to dry fit all the hardware on the transom, the motor mount, stuffing tube, & turn fin bracket etc, before doing the final paint work. Less chance of damaging a beautiful paint job when drilling holes. Or gettin epoxy fingerprints on the hull when gluing in the stuffing tub. I'm bad for that.
Then I remove the hardware before painting.
Any split wood or dings etc are easy to fill & sand etc before a pristine paint job.
It's so easy to bolt it all back on without damaging the paint.

[Franksteer]

Good plan I will do the same,question how did you bend the stuffing tube, that is some hard tubing is their a trick in bending it ??

[785boats]

All I use are my thumbs & fingers. I first install a bit of liner in it & the flex shaft. If it is a loose fit I might wrap a couple of layers of masking tape around the flex, then just gently bend it.
You will read all sorts of info from heating up the tube to anneal it, to filling it with salt or sand. But I've never needed to.

[Franksteer]

Thanks I will try it today.

[revoltrunner]

Here's the link to the boat on classic hydros.
http://www.classichydros.com/#!/Blaster-30-Scale-Picklefork-Unlimited-Hydroplane-Kit/p/28344040/category=4581162
and the pic of motor location.

[Franksteer]

Thanks I got it right, if I can figure out how to post a picture I will. Computer stupid sorry