Hpr 99 ultimate layup.

[pond skipper]

Well my hull and hardware finally arrived today! All I can say is amazing!!! I've never seen this kind of attention to detail put into a rc boat hull and it will take nothing short of an act of God to break this hull! Excited is a HUGE understatement! I will post some photos of it on here later today when I get a chance to one, calm down, and two, to go on lunch brake, I swear if Hanspeter were standing in fron of me I'd kiss the man lol! For those of you who run cats you should really really look hard into purchasing one of his hulls. For the strength, quality, and attention to detail it should cost easily twice as much as it did..

[pond skipper]

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interesting how the drives attach to the hull, hopefully that knurled nut will be enough to hold them in place and not leak, will probably put some silicon rtv against the face of the outdrives to seal them against the hull.

[SANTAVY1]

Hanspeter builds amazing hulls period!!!!! I have had 3 of them and still have 2 one is signed by him.

[Tamelesstgr]

Dam, that is a sexy hull....

[pond skipper]

No doubt! And thanks!

[dmitry100]

Do the drives have ball bearings or bushings?

[iridebikes247]

Nice man, they're beautiful hulls.

The nut will be strong enough to hold them, without question.

If you measure enough times you should be able to get the drive pedestal to fit while still having a tiny bit of bite so you can screw in by hand but not a totally "loose fit," a tiny dab of silicone during installation and you can cross drives off the checklist :beerchug:

[pond skipper]

The drives are dual ball bearing on a a 6mm shaft that's turned to 3/16 on one end (prop end) and bored out on the other to accept a 3/16 flex cable

As for the measuring, once I get things situated the way I want I will be making an aluminum drill teplate that can be used to drill out the pilot holes for the drives themselves and keep everything equal and identical.

[dmitry100]

You mean you're gonna shape aluminum plate to the back of the sponson for the drives?

Perhaps instead you can use something like a sheet of really thick paper or plastic-- but still thin enough to use scissors and then just use masking tape to align it...
I use a 0.5mm thick (black) fiberglass sheet for these things since I could easily cut it with scissors but allows for clean pilot holes, etc. And I also use it the sheet to make ESC mounts, etc. :) Easily cut out 5 layers of the design you want with scissors and then epoxy/cement each layer together and boom... a strong plate.

[pond skipper]

yeah I thought about doing something like that to but for me its much easier to make it from aluminum or even stainless as I work in a machine shop and have access to some FINE milling machines and plenty of scrap material, aside from that if by any chance something ever happened to the hull, god forbid, I would have a set of templates that would last a lifetime for drilling the same holes in a new one.

[dmitry100]

Well, it's an ultimate layup. Have you seen the huge amount of caulking or epoxy of some sort in the front of the hull to keep front seams from separating? I wonder if that's unique to the Ultimate layup or for bulletproof as well... But it is about ~1/4 pound heavier than even the Bulletproof though (which I would assume is plenty of extra carbon). I do wish the hatch came a bit more reinforced like the rest of the hull though...

[pond skipper]

The hatch on this one is probably just shy of 1/4" thick, infact it's more than that in places, it should hold up well. All I really have to figure out now is if it would be better going with 1/4" sst stuffing tubes or the traditional brass 5/16" with a 1/4" inner tube as a replaceable sleeve for the larger one, kind of like a bushing that runs the length of the flex cable. That's how me and my dad always did them but with the way these drives are made and the new style stuffing tube clamp mounts that can be unbolted you can literally remove and replace it without having to cut anything loose in the hull so I'm leaning towards just going 1/4" stainless, that plus I have a super nice set of swagelok 1/4" tubing benders which would be perfect for the job.

[pond skipper]

I basically told Hanspeter when I talked with him through email that I wanted it to have to take an act of God to break this boat which might account for my hatch cover being so thick.

[dmitry100]

Not sure if he does "custom" work, as most of those hulls are in fact already done before you order them. Can you take a picture of the hatch and maybe a caliper reading of thickness-- I'll compare it to mine. Or maybe just weight? Mine is Ultimate as well. So far hatch and all looks the same.

[srislash]

Very nice. This is an awesome sized boat and will be killer on the water. I have yet to build my 115 but the quality is second to none(AC boats being next I think).

[pond skipper]

This one deffinitely wasn't pre built, I had to wait around 2-3 weeks for him to finish it, so it very well may be somewhat different. I'll get my calipers out later and check the thickness, it's deffinitely not thin, it could be used as a deadly weapon without damage.

I have a feeling this won't be my last hpr, possibly a 135 ultimate layup on 10s next.

[dmitry100]

I agree that the hatch is strong... but not rock solid strong as it still has a tad bit of flex in it. I was considering to add another layer or 2 of carbon, I think it would do some good. The Hull is deceivingly super light... At first I didn't think it was the Ultimate when I got it lol.

srislash, if you don't mind, can you send me a few measurements of tunnel width/height and overall width/height of your hpr115? I want to compare it to my radtek mystic... it seems to be completely different design but more similar to mhz in terms of width ratio.

[pond skipper]

My hatch is over .220" thick in the corners and would imagine over the surface of it probably thins out to .130-.150"

[pond skipper]

just ran across a 1.5" dia piece of 316 sst bar stock that im going to turn down and make a drill template out of for the motor mounts, ill drill the hole patterns in it for TP, Lehner, and neu motors. ill turn a pilot onto it to fit in the existing hole in the motor mount brackets to where I can drill out both brackets at once. ill post some photos of it later this week if I get a chance to start on it.

[ls1fst98]

hey look like the same drive on my c5009, and teh nut and upper support make for a strong mount. its a nice and smooth setup with the dual bearings.