NEW Pro Boat "ZELOS 36" Twin Cat

[Darin Jordan]

Rafael and Pro Boat have done it again!

New ZELOS 36 TWIN-CAT...

http://www.proboatmodels.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=PRB08021


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wuTc8Hqk294


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Features

Powerful Twin, 36mm x 62mm counter-rotating brushless 6-Pole, 2000Kv motors
Two 120-AMP (6S LiPo compatible) Brushless Water-cooled ESCs
Capable of reaching speeds in excess of 60 MPH with recommended 6S LiPo batteries
Precision catamaran hull
Fiberglass canopy
Stainless steel propellers
Spektrum™ DX2E Transmitter
Waterproof electronics
Boat stand included

Specifications

Length:
36" (914.4mm)
Beam:
11.75" (298.4mm)
Motor Size:
36.68mm, 6 Pole, 2000KV
Weight:
9.65 lb (4.4 kg)
Speed:
60+
Radio:
Spektrum DX2E
Speed Control:
2 Dynamite 120A, 2S-6S
Hull Material:
Fiberglass
Trim Scheme Colors:
Yellow and Black
Prop Size:
2 Counter rotating 1.4x1.65
Hull Type:
Catamaran



Most SOLID hull Pro Boat has ever produced. THIS one is TOUGH!!

[Darin Jordan]

NOTE: I think they have the specs wrong, however...

Powerful Twin, 56mm x 87mm counter-rotating brushless 6-Pole, 2000Kv motors

Unless something has changed, the motors are "36x60mm", 2000-KV...

[arrover]

YES! I am so excited! Just ordered it. First twin and first cat for me. That is excellent to hear that the hull is so beefy.

[Darin Jordan]

YES! I am so excited! Just ordered it. First twin and first cat for me. That is excellent to hear that the hull is so beefy.

I am QUITE certain you won't be disappointed. The hardware is first class, and LOOKS incredibly professional and cool.

Interior is amazing. LOTs of room for upgrading bits.

I've already started... :w00t:

140515

STOCK on LEFT, UPGRADE on RIGHT
140516

[Rafael_Lopez]

Motor specs are definitely wrong. Well update that tonight. Darin, please update your first post.

[skeeler]

A 36-inch twin cat is just what I've been asking for. And bright yellow is an excellent choice for visibility. Come springtime here in Michigan, I will be very, very interested.

[Darin Jordan]

Here it is compared to a TFL CHEETAH and Pro Boat Miss Geico 29. ..

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[JMSCARD]

So I take it this runs on either (2) 4s packs on up to (2)5s and even (2)6s packs? Are two 5000mah 6s packs to heavy for the boat? Wondering what is going to power it batt wise, I take it the two motors aren't sucking off one battery supply correct?

[JMSCARD]

But the while nice job looks Saaaawweeeeet!

[Darin Jordan]

So I take it this runs on either (2) 4s packs on up to (2)5s and even (2)6s packs? Are two 5000mah 6s packs to heavy for the boat? Wondering what is going to power it batt wise, I take it the two motors aren't sucking off one battery supply correct?

They way the boat is supplied, there is a Y-Harness that takes two 3S packs, puts them in series to make 6S, then feeds that one "pack" to both motors.

For mine, I'm not using that Y Harness, choosing instead to run a separate 5S or 6S pack to each motor. At least, that's the plan.

Since we're going to be limited to 5000mAh to each motor (10,000mAh total for Q), it's going to be a balance between power and capacity... and weight.

But then, it always is. :thumbup1:

[gfmarlin88]

What running times can we expect using two 3s 5000mah batteries with y adapter?

[Darin Jordan]

What running times can we expect using two 3s 5000mah batteries with y adapter?

I'll have to let Rafael or one of the other testers answer that question. I rarely test for overall runtime. Too hard on cells. I test for performance and handling, which are optimal in the first 2 minutes of running.

That said, I ran mine for around 3 1/2 minutes or so before I brought it back in. Power system isn't really what I'd consider an "amp hog".

[Darin Jordan]

Here is what that Y Adapter looks like as supplied:

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http://www.proboatmodels.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=PRB18015

[JMSCARD]

Got ya darin, yes I think I'd be running two separate packs also....

Darin, is there room for 40mm can size motors in the mounting area..? Looks like there is... I have way to many castle 1512 2650kv's and this would be perfect for them :) 4s1p per motor should be plenty fast :)

Lastly when are they expected to be avail?

[Darin Jordan]

Darin, is there room for 40mm can size motors in the mounting area..? Looks like there is... I have way to many castle 1512 2650kv's and this would be perfect for them :) 4s1p per motor should be plenty fast :)

Lastly when are they expected to be avail?

40mm will fit easily. If you look up at post #4, that top picture is a 40x82mm motor with fairly thick water jacket on, and it has plenty of room. I just put in an order for two of those motors (40x82mm, 6-Pole, 1650KV) and I'll start by running them on 5Sx5000mAh, one for each. I'll rearrange the connections to be like I did on my Cheetah:

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I might also add some of the movable battery trays down in the sponsons, just in front of the motors, to give me the option of splitting up the packs into a pair of 3S packs per side, or ??? Not sure how that will affect the CG, however. There is a LOT of boat out in front of those motors, do getting enough weight BACK in the boat will be the challenge to get the CG just right. HOWEVER, even with the 2000KV 36mm motors, this boat approaches 60mph, so keeping the CG up around 33-34% should actually work just fine.

[arrover]

I think Darin posted a picture above of a 40mm Voracity motor mounted in this new boat. There is also another thread here that you might want to follow. Good info. http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?54021-pro-boat-has-a-36-quot-twin-cat-!

[Rafael_Lopez]

Here are pictures of the included adapter. We did this because we don't expect our customers, that may be new to boating, to drop major $ for 4 LiPos, on top of the price for the boat. This way, they can get going with just 2 packs. Running 2 packs like this, run time is 3:1/2-4 minutes of full throttle driving. I've had people report as much as 7 minutes moderating the throttle, and I was experiencing about 6 minutes during the making of the official promo video. With 4 packs, full tilt, you will get around 6-7 minutes and upwards of 10 moderating the throttle. This is all with the stock motors of course.


As Darin has mentioned, and posted pictures of, the motor mount will fit 40mm diameter motors but if you go as large as he is, you will have to find a way to support the back. I set the boat up to use the shorter can, 40mm motor from the Impulse as an "upgrade", being that it is only 6mm longer than the stock motor.


http://i961.photobucket.com/albums/ae92/rlopez8/Twin%20Battery%20Adapter_zpsaicducqg.jpg~original (http://s961.photobucket.com/user/rlopez8/media/Twin%20Battery%20Adapter_zpsaicducqg.jpg.html)

[arrover]

Thanks for the picture Rafael. Is there any advantage to running 4 packs other than longer run time?

[Rafael_Lopez]

I discovered a long time ago, before working here, with our 29" hulls that they like weight. In my first MG29 that I got back in 2010, I ripped out the wood battery trays and would run 2, 4S packs in the sponsons. Handled way better than with 2, 2S packs. It made it feel more planted and I could carry more speed through the corners. The boat is also less likely to roll in a tight turn. Since this boat carries the same bottom design as the 29" boats, it reacts the same way to more weight.

With this specific boat though, I'll be honest, it's quite overpowered. With 4 packs, I found that during windy conditions the boat could run in to the wind without the front end wanting to lift. This meant that I could run in rougher conditions as well. 4 Batteries also makes it easier to set CG, without the need to change the struts from a neutral position, because the added weight helps settle the boat it can now plow through ripples/chop that might normally upset it. Just keep in mind that the weight of 4 packs could be equal to the weight of 2 single packs of the total sum voltage, to each ESC; meaning 2 single, 5s or 6s, packs would provide the same outcome with the only drawback being that you would be limited to not being able to shove a battery under the hull and use the entire length of the battery tray if you needed to.

[bigcam406]

nice job guys! love the"bruised banana" color scheme.after looking at the above photo im guesing it might be a tad of a pain to remove collets to lube the shafts though.looks tight.correct me if im wrong.

[JMSCARD]

All great info! Boy looks awful nice, and hence why I thought the 1512's would be nice in there... 2650kv's and 4s per side :) with some dasboata 442's lol... the castles are only 68mm and probably no rear support needed, just plunk in and go! Great work Rafeal... I this is def a nice boat, and perfect size! I'll be trying one for sure. Hoping HH has one of those surveys lol.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Bigcam406, it's the angle of the shot. There is plenty of room to loosen the collet. Also, to access the farthest screw on the motor mount, all you need a ball driver, and an Allen wrench if you really want to crank on it. Trust me, there is nothing complicated about this boat. We designed the interior layout for ease of service. The benefit of working with this specific boat manufacturer is that We/I have 100% control of how the boats get designed and built. We don't buy what they have on the shelf which gives us the creative freedom to do as much forward thinking as possible.

Also, you had me dying with the "bruised banana" comment. That's awesome!!


Hope these pictures help.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e21/jAndrew/Mobile%20Uploads/567A384A-133D-4FC5-900E-201F127434CD_zps9tp0ffn9.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/jAndrew/media/Mobile%20Uploads/567A384A-133D-4FC5-900E-201F127434CD_zps9tp0ffn9.jpg.html)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e21/jAndrew/Mobile%20Uploads/E2B6B2B4-5C96-486A-BACB-2BB3252CCD06_zpsh791y8uf.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/jAndrew/media/Mobile%20Uploads/E2B6B2B4-5C96-486A-BACB-2BB3252CCD06_zpsh791y8uf.jpg.html)

[Rafael_Lopez]

All great info! Boy looks awful nice, and hence why I thought the 1512's would be nice in there... 2650kv's and 4s per side :) with some dasboata 442's lol... the castles are only 68mm and probably no rear support needed, just plunk in and go! Great work Rafeal... I this is def a nice boat, and perfect size! I'll be trying one for sure. Hoping HH has one of those surveys lol.
Thank you.

If you don't find the survey, they sometimes have a summer boat sale during spring, which is right around the corner. ;)

[bigcam406]

thanks for the clarification.the picture was deceiving.nice job.should be a hot seller.

[Darin Jordan]

Guys, also of note, the couplers on these new boats are QUALITY bits. All the hardware is. Just really, really nicely done.

[kfxguy]

Guys, also of note, the couplers on these new boats are QUALITY bits. All the hardware is. Just really, really nicely done.

Raphael was showing me the drives and rudder a while back and I was impressed. I can't wait till they sell the hardware because I think it will fit nicely on a couple hulls I have. The couplers look like octura units which are high quality

[PROP]

What is the reason you chose to run two battery packs in parallel ? Is it not better to run a separate pack to each motor like Darin is going to do ? You are joining them and then splitting them again.

[Darin Jordan]

The couplers look like octura units which are high quality

Actually the couplers (picture doesn't yet seem to appear on the Pro Boat/Horizon site), are more like these:

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Use a pair of 10mm wrenches.

[Rafael_Lopez]

What is the reason you chose to run two battery packs in parallel ? Is it not better to run a separate pack to each motor like Darin is going to do ? You are joining them and then splitting them again.
The financial reason for running both ESCs off one set of batteries is cost to the consumer. Our expectation of every RTR boat is that we will pull in customers that may not have experience with boats, or are possibly stepping up from a beginner boat. This means that if they don't have LiPos with which to operate the boat, the expense will be at least 1/3 the cost of the boat to buy 4 batteries. The cheapest 50c+ 11.1v packs I found on line were $60 + shipping, a each. So as you can imagine, expecting a customer to spend $649.99 for the boat plus $240 to $400+ on batteries could kill a sale. It would make much more sense to sped at least an extra $120+shipping for batteries, and go have fun. Having said this, keep in mind I do all my testing with the recommended packs. I can't vouch for the $60 packs though they may work just fine.

Performance wise, as long as your batteries are close to equally matched, it won't hurt to put them in series and then split them to the ESCs. The only thing you are hurting is run time. Where one may run in to heat issues is when you have 1 weak pack and one strong one, but that can happen any time you series 2 packs; it has nothing to do with splitting them. As for the ESCs, they don't care where the power is coming from. As long as they are both calibrated to the transmitter, which is done at the factory, they will both put out equal RPM to their motor, relevant to throttle position on the transmitter. With the adapter, voltage is constant between the 2 ESCs, and I never experienced one ESC hitting LVC before the other.

Depending on the quality of packs you run, you cold experience better performance, and run time, running an individual power feed to each ESC, but not everyone will have that luxury, so we made it easy for those who don't.

Long answer, I know. Sorry.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Actually the couplers (picture doesn't yet seem to appear on the Pro Boat/Horizon site), are more like these:

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Use a pair of 10mm wrenches.
The pictures should be up soon. The couplers in this boat are the same ones I specified for the Voracity 36. They are very well made and have excellent grip over the .187 cable. The only time I've heard of people having issues is when they get grease in them, which I've experienced with other couplers as well.

[steve p]

i think i"am going to get the 36" ZELOS, with 2 35c 6400mah 11.1v lipos, how long do think on running time???? one thing i really like, is they put 4 hatch locks
on the boat,you doint see that very often!!!!!!

thanks,steve p.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Hey Steve,

It's hard to say. It really depends on your driving style and the true rating of your packs. I've seen 5000mAh packs take back 55-5700mAh with th cut off lowered to 3v/cell. Our ESCs leave the packs at around 3.7v/ cell after cut off; set at 3.2v/ cell. Full throttle runs, maybe 4-4.5 minutes. Moderating throttle, 6-7 minutes, maybe more.

[Crash]

I am new to boating
for a guy just bashing around the lake with mild chop, would you expect the 36 inch cat or the 36 inch deep v to handle the waves better?
thanks, Dan

[Darin Jordan]

I am new to boating
for a guy just bashing around the lake with mild chop, would you expect the 36 inch cat or the 36 inch deep v to handle the waves better?
thanks, Dan

Dan, as a matter of fact, I was planning on mentioning that. I've found sport boating much more enjoyable with these larger boats
They are able to be run in "normal" water conditions, as opposed to having to wait for things to calm down.

Great size, in my experience.

[Crash]

thanks Darin
which style hull would you expect to handle better in normal conditions bashing around ....?

[Rafael_Lopez]

Crash, a cat will mostly never handle like a V in similar conditions, since the V is cutting through the water and has turn fins which help is pivot through turns. The V will mostly always feel like it is on rails. Our cats though, tend to drift around corners because of their wide beam, which means that you can push them harder than you could a "scale" cat with angled pads. The flat bottom of the pads also allows them to lose a bit of traction through the corners to break the rear end loose, again, allowing you to push the boat harder through the corners with less fear of flipping it. As far as general bashing, I feel about 6" chop will be both boat's limits. You can possibly get away with running in rougher conditions if you run length wise, etween the waves, rather than against/over them with mostly any boat.

A V will seem/look to be faster than a cat will, with the equivalent power system. I don't know why, but that is the way it seems to me. But the fact is that a cat will always be faster with the same power system of a V. For example, If we would have made this a single drive boat, and just thrown the motor from the Voracity, it would have easily been 5-10 mph faster than the Voracity, out of the boat. The load on the ESC would have typically been less as well. This is because the V is cutting through the water and the cat is skimming over it.

[Crash]

Excellent explanation Rafael.

[jaike5]

Rafael,
6' chop is for the real boats, I think you meant 6" chop. These new boats look great, and clearly fill a void. Will the 36" cat be offered in a single motor version ?

Cheers, Jay.:thumbup1:

[Rafael_Lopez]

Jay, thanks for catching that typo. 6" is correct.

As for a single 36 cat, I can definitely say no right now. It would be a direct competitor to the twin, which doesn't make sense for us to do.

As a side project, I will be converting 1 of my twins to a single drive, just to see how it handles. I'll be powering it with the Voracity motor.

[jaike5]

Hi Rafael,

Whether you sell a twin or a single motor cat you are selling all the cats in this size seems to be a win win for you. Aq is selling zero, don't want to let them creep in. Stay ahead of the curve.
Just my .02 cents.
let me know how the conversion works out.

Cheers, Jay.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Hey guys, here is a comparison of the twin in between the other 2 latest released from PRB. Hope this gives you all an idea for size.
http://i961.photobucket.com/albums/ae92/rlopez8/Boats_zpsgwwxohf5.jpg~original (http://s961.photobucket.com/user/rlopez8/media/Boats_zpsgwwxohf5.jpg.html)

[arrover]

I love the bow notch shape and the stripes on the inside of the tunnel on the twin. You did a good job on the manual too. It looks like a lot of thought went into it.

[skeeler]

Hey guys, here is a comparison of the twin in between the other 2 latest released from PRB. Hope this gives you all an idea for size.


Very useful. Thanks.

[pistol18]

Sorry your job stinks Rafael.......



:sarcasm1:

[Rafael_Lopez]

Sorry your job stinks Rafael.......



:sarcasm1:
Tell me about it! I'm running out of places to store all these darn boats.:frusty:
:laugh:

[pistol18]

oh your pain.....

I may need a fake email from you congratulating me on becoming your "East Coast Product Tester" and that you will be sending me different boats throughout the year, some that I can keep(most actually) and others that I need to return once testing is complete. That will help keep the better half from asking why all these boats keep showing up.

Thanks in advance! :beerchug:

[Rafael_Lopez]

oh your pain.....

I may need a fake email from you congratulating me on becoming your "East Coast Product Tester" and that you will be sending me different boats throughout the year, some that I can keep(most actually) and others that I need to return once testing is complete. That will help keep the better half from asking why all these boats keep showing up.

Thanks in advance! :beerchug:
Hahaha! Absolutely genius!!

[Rafael_Lopez]

Members of my boat club take a whack at the Zelos 36 Twin.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qgYcXts93XU

[Banzee]

I sub !

[Yellow]

I see they are taking pre-orders. When will it be available? Thanks, Yellow.

[Rafael_Lopez]

We ar not producing white boats for sale. It's in the picture because it's my very first sample and I wanted to post a progression picture.

The boats are scheduled to arrive the second week of March.

[Vortech C5]

Hey guys,

I was one of the fortunate people that got to test this boat when Rafael brought it out to the lake. Its nothing short of incredible. It handles and runs like a dream. You really can't ask for a better "all around" boat. We were all SUPER impressed. Its bullet proof, FAST, and handles like a dream. Congrats to Rafael and Horizon Hobby for an amazing product!
Ray

[bigcam406]

Members of my boat club take a whack at the Zelos 36 Twin.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qgYcXts93XU

very impressive.just wondering if temps were checked after running it that hard.

[Rafael_Lopez]

I'll let someone who was there and drove it answer that. I think it will mean more than if I do.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=33954533&postcount=36

[Vortech C5]

very impressive.just wondering if temps were checked after running it that hard.

Great question. Since I was one of the fortunate people that ran it, I will answer. Yes! The temps were checked.

On a very hot day (mid 80s) the temps were as follows on a very hard full run!

Motors 60-75 degrees (varied on each run) Basically warm (FAR FROM HOT)
Speed controls 60-70 degrees (also varied mildly on each run) (FAR FROM HOT)
Battery packs were 108-110 degrees (VERY mild variation on each run) (Warm, but definitely nothing out of the ordinary) 35C batteries were used.

Hope that helps!
Ray

[Rafael_Lopez]

I have to say, it's wonderful to have people drive these products before they hit the market. It's one thing if I answer questions, but I feel it's completely different to hear people's perspectives of their experience with the product. Neither Ray or anyone else that shares their experience are testers or have anything to gain from sharing their experience. I wish I had the budget to travel to every boat club and let more people drive products before it releases. Feedback like this is invaluable.

Temps remain low because each side is only pulling between 40-45 amps, continously, at a moderate 7.5* of timing. I do not recommend raising the timing over 15*, but that is always an option, if one feels the need to take advantage of the stock system as long as the batteries can keep up.

[Crash]

Excellent video Rafael
That looks fun and fast

[bigcam406]

Great question. Since I was one of the fortunate people that ran it, I will answer. Yes! The temps were checked.

On a very hot day (mid 80s) the temps were as follows on a very hard full run!

Motors 60-75 degrees (varied on each run) Basically warm (FAR FROM HOT)
Speed controls 60-70 degrees (also varied mildly on each run) (FAR FROM HOT)
Battery packs were 108-110 degrees (VERY mild variation on each run) (Warm, but definitely nothing out of the ordinary) 35C batteries were used.

Hope that helps!
Ray

thanks for the response.i watched that video numerous times and wondered,since you were shooting it in CAL,i figured it would be warm.was wondering what is the recommended discharge rate for lipos to be used in the Zelos? ps.thats a lovely place to run your boats.

[Xcessive Carts]

Rafael, My LHS has 2 of them ordered, and I get the first 1. I also would like to know what discharge rate you recommend? I plan on running Two 6a batteries. with at least 5000mah.
Is their any flotation in the sponson's, or on the hatch?
I have a feeling that my modded Spartan is not going to get much water time this spring.

[montymike]

:thumbup1:eNice job,this boat gets my attention!

[Rafael_Lopez]

We recommend our Reaction 50c packs. If you can find good quality 35c packs, that's the minimum I'd run. Run for 1-1:30 minutes and check the pack temps. If they get over 130*, you will more than likely puff them. 100-120* is normal battery temp in this boat.

Here are pictures of the flotation.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e21/jAndrew/Mobile%20Uploads/B062C432-5853-47A3-86E6-9256DD5544F1_zpsmozaebov.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/jAndrew/media/Mobile%20Uploads/B062C432-5853-47A3-86E6-9256DD5544F1_zpsmozaebov.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e21/jAndrew/Mobile%20Uploads/98F81129-1381-4550-A894-4BC2C99FD59B_zps377h1m6i.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/jAndrew/media/Mobile%20Uploads/98F81129-1381-4550-A894-4BC2C99FD59B_zps377h1m6i.jpg.html)

[montymike]

Sweet

[Darin Jordan]

Been prepping mine to use for Q-Cat this year.

One thing that is impressive about the factory boat is the quality of the steering servo. Specs are pretty nice for an RTR... Price is certainly amazing for this quality of a Servo!

http://www.proboatmodels.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPMS605

Specifications

Size Category: Standard
Type: Digital
Torque: 161 oz-in @ 6.0V
Speed: .24 sec/60 degrees @ 6.0V
Bushing Or Bearing: Bushing
Gear Type: Metal

140863

Because I believe in overkill for racing boats, I decided to give one of the new Spektrum S6230 Digital servos for mine. This will provide way more torque than is required, and also a faster transit/response time, which may (or may not) help in traffic or on an offshore course.


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140867

http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPMSS6230

Size Category: Specialty
Type: Digital
Application: 1/10 Buggy, Truck, On-Road
Torque: 311 oz-in (22.4kg-cm) @ 6.0V
Speed: 0.14 sec/60 deg @ 6.0V, at no load
Length: 1.61 in (41mm)
Width: 0.82 in (20.8mm)
Height: 1.18 in (30mm)
Weight: 2.1 oz (59.5g)
Bushing Or Bearing: Bearing
Bearing: Dual
Motor Type: Coreless
Connector Type: Z-connector, removable
Gear Type: Metal
Gear Material: Steel, Aluminum
Current Draw Idle: 9.8 mA @ 6.0V
Current Draw Stall: 4900mA @ 6.0V
Voltage: 6.0V
Deadband: 4µs

[Darin Jordan]

Prepped a couple of props to try on my "modded" Zelos 36. The big motors should turn these ABC 1815's just fine... :) Working on getting some additional sets of props to try as well. Taking this setup to the 2-LAP Time-Trial in LA next month. We'll get a chance to really wring her out there!

140966

[kfxguy]

Prepped a couple of props to try on my "modded" Zelos 36. The big motors should turn these ABC 1815's just fine... :) Working on getting some additional sets of props to try as well. Taking this setup to the 2-LAP Time-Trial in LA next month. We'll get a chance to really wring her out there!

140966


Those 1815's will move that thing well. I'm sure you already know, but in case you don't, they like a couple degrees negative on the strut or the boat will become an acrobat lol

[kfxguy]

Been prepping mine to use for Q-Cat this year.

One thing that is impressive about the factory boat is the quality of the steering servo. Specs are pretty nice for an RTR... Price is certainly amazing for this quality of a Servo!

http://www.proboatmodels.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPMS605

Specifications

Size Category: Standard
Type: Digital
Torque: 161 oz-in @ 6.0V
Speed: .24 sec/60 degrees @ 6.0V
Bushing Or Bearing: Bushing
Gear Type: Metal

140863

Because I believe in overkill for racing boats, I decided to give one of the new Spektrum S6230 Digital servos for mine. This will provide way more torque than is required, and also a faster transit/response time, which may (or may not) help in traffic or on an offshore course.


140866

140867

http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPMSS6230

Size Category: Specialty
Type: Digital
Application: 1/10 Buggy, Truck, On-Road
Torque: 311 oz-in (22.4kg-cm) @ 6.0V
Speed: 0.14 sec/60 deg @ 6.0V, at no load
Length: 1.61 in (41mm)
Width: 0.82 in (20.8mm)
Height: 1.18 in (30mm)
Weight: 2.1 oz (59.5g)
Bushing Or Bearing: Bearing
Bearing: Dual
Motor Type: Coreless
Connector Type: Z-connector, removable
Gear Type: Metal
Gear Material: Steel, Aluminum
Current Draw Idle: 9.8 mA @ 6.0V
Current Draw Stall: 4900mA @ 6.0V
Voltage: 6.0V
Deadband: 4µs


Man I love those servos. I have a few of them. I even have one in my 98mph Rivercat. Smooth, quiet and very powerful. For the price I don't think you can beat them. And they are waterproof! (Which with my luck means a lot! Lol)

[Darin Jordan]

... they like a couple degrees negative on the strut or the boat will become an acrobat lol

Yes... I figured. I'm thinking these will work well on my Cheetah, probably at Neutral strut.

Going to be running my Cheetah in P-Cat, and the Zelos in either Q-Cat, or T-Cat. The later depends on what Rafael is going to be doing. If he can make it out, I'm going to make it my mission to help him get the Q-Cat record. If he does that, I'm going to run mine as a T-Cat (6-10 cells, up to 12,000mAh).

OH, question: Inwards or Outwards rotation??

[Darin Jordan]

Added a couple of "niceties", just for fun...

OSE Front "tow-hook"... these things are styling, and work great!

140967

Also used an old Stiletto cowl screw mounted on the back of the hatch cover to help in the lifting off of the hatch. Just something I do on all my boats with this type of cover.

140968

[Rafael_Lopez]

How the hell did you get your hands way up in there!?:laugh:

[kfxguy]

Yes... I figured. I'm thinking these will work well on my Cheetah, probably at Neutral strut.

Going to be running my Cheetah in P-Cat, and the Zelos in either Q-Cat, or T-Cat. The later depends on what Rafael is going to be doing. If he can make it out, I'm going to make it my mission to help him get the Q-Cat record. If he does that, I'm going to run mine as a T-Cat (6-10 cells, up to 12,000mAh).

OH, question: Inwards or Outwards rotation??



I seem to like inwards. (Left prop clockwise, right counter clock)

I think your absolutely right about the cheetah wanting it neutral. That think is hard to get the nose up. Don't forget, there is 1816's and 1817's too if you need more speed, but I think those 1815's are the best all around prop you can get. It's my favorite and "go to" prop. Brian and Jim hit the nail on the head with that thing!

[paulfromtulsa]

Any better eta on this rafael

[Yellow]

New guy here... I just pre-ordered mine yesterday! Can't wait!

[Rafael_Lopez]

The due date has always been mid March. Check the Pro Boat page for updates.:thumbup1:
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[arrover]

Just got a shipping notification!

[Rafael_Lopez]

Sweet!!

[paulfromtulsa]

Mine shipped today also!

[Yellow]

I just got home a few minutes ago, read this thread, and then check my e-mail too... AND...

My sweet twin is also on her way!!! Man I can't wait!
I hope it arrives in good condition. Fingers crossed.

[arrover]

Got mine today. What an amazing boat. It's very heavy and well built. I swapped the EC5 connector on the harness for 5.5 bullets so I can run my packs. The flexes appeared to be only lightly oiled to prevent rust so make sure and grease them before you run it. The boat is bigger than it looks in pictures! It barely fits in the boat bag I built. Here are a few pics.

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[arrover]

Unfortunately the wind was terrible today. Gusts to 30mph so I couldn't really open the boat up. Here's some video though. It's tough to tell how rough it was but the boat's action kind of gives you an idea. The flip at the end did zero damage and the boat is sealed well. For these runs I was running two 5000mah 3S packs (total of 6S to each motor when you use the included double Y harness). The batteries were as far forward as I could get them while still getting one Velcro strap around each pack. Temps were very low but I didn't measure them. The ESCs were even cool/cold to the touch. Granted I wasn't running super hard....


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBePq9o-O9M

[kfxguy]

Two tips for you. Set the boat on a table, props and rudder hanging off. Look at it from the side, make sure the struts are parallel or level with the table. No positive or negative in the props. That's how mine is. Also, sharpen the props. You do those things it should do very well. My timing is at 15* and I have no heat issues. I wouldn't put the timing at 15 with stock unsharpened props tho. I didn't try it that was and I know a blunt prop will not cut through the water as easily so I'm not sure if it'll live that way or not. This setup in stock trim really doesn't seems to break a sweat no matter what I've done so far. I even had my shafts in a bind and the escs and motors didn't get hot.



*****im not condoning changing the timing as your warranty may be void. I did it myself because I have spare esc's anyway so if I burn them in the sake of testing I'm ok with that.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Arrower, cool video. Nice to start seeing video, other than the ones Travis or I post.


A couple of routine maintenance tips I'd like to share.

When greasing the shafts, don't squirt grease inside the struts. The diameter of the hole on the strut and the liner is nearly the same diameter as the flex shaft. Doing so will force the grease out of the liner when you insert the flex shaft and you'll end up with a huge mess inside the boat. You also don't want grease inside your coupler.

I squeeze some grease on a napkin and run the flex shaft through it, making sure I don't get grease on the first 15-20mm of the shaft, which will go in to the coupler. When I install the flex shaft in to the strut, I rotate the flex shaft in the direction the cable is wound. This will help carry as much grease as possible in to the liner. You will notice a lot of the grease will not make it in to the liner, and it will appear to nearly all end up at the strut's opening, this is normal. Use grease sparingly. This is why the manual recommends greasing about every 20 minutes of use, or less when possible. When you are done running for the day, I recommend removing the shafts and wiping them down, grease and reinstall. This does 2 things. It keeps the used grease from accumulating inside of the liner and on the shaft, and it ensures that your boat will always be ready at short notice to go run it.

Another tip, when greasing always put a drop or two of oil in the front bearing. As the shafts load, they contract putting a load on the front bearing. The rear motor bearing doesn't see this burden. This us useful for any boat, not just this one.

Lastly, carry a 2.5 L wrench with you. I have a long L wrench with a ball tip on the end that I got from my local hardware store in set. Use the short part of the L wrench and periodically check to make sure the motor mount screws are tight. I check mine every time I grease the flex shafts and oil the bearings. The ball end of the wrench comes in handy if you ever need to remove the motors. Break the bolt loose with the short end and then use the ball driver to easily remove the screws.

[shua]

My local hobby shop got one in stock the other day. I got the opportunity to open up the box and put hands on this beautiful boat... All I can say is WOW!

The FG layup really is a lot thicker than anything I've seen from Proboat. Just removing the canopy and holding it I can feel the thickness and quality is top-notch. I love the angles and the lines of this cat. Color is not my first choice but that can be easily changed. The hardware/electronics are incredible too.
After my Voracity I swore to avoid Another RTR boat and focus on building my next ones. But after reading about the Zelos Twin and now seeing it in person I must say that I cannot wait to bring this big boy home!

[Andy micke]

We recommend our Reaction 50c packs. If you can find good quality 35c packs, that's the minimum I'd run. Run for 1-1:30 minutes and check the pack temps. If they get over 130*, you will more than likely puff them. 100-120* is normal battery temp in this boat.

Here are pictures of the flotation.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e21/jAndrew/Mobile%20Uploads/B062C432-5853-47A3-86E6-9256DD5544F1_zpsmozaebov.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/jAndrew/media/Mobile%20Uploads/B062C432-5853-47A3-86E6-9256DD5544F1_zpsmozaebov.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e21/jAndrew/Mobile%20Uploads/98F81129-1381-4550-A894-4BC2C99FD59B_zps377h1m6i.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/jAndrew/media/Mobile%20Uploads/98F81129-1381-4550-A894-4BC2C99FD59B_zps377h1m6i.jpg.html)

I had to re-epoxy the foam put of the box. As it was not even attached when I first opened the hatch. Very very minor.

[Andy micke]

As soon as the weather clears up, I'll be taking my new zelos out. #cantwait

[TheShaughnessy]

If the worst complaint is a 5 sec glue job repair I'd say that's pretty damn good.

[arrover]

I had some time and flat water this morning to finally open the twin up fully. It ran 58.6mph on two 3S packs (6S to each motor) and 36.7mph on two 2S packs (4S to each motor). This is the out of the box stock configuration. I've only changed the battery plugs on the Y harness. No other adjustments. My packs were as far forward as possible while still being strapped down by the most forward velcro strap. The boat bounced quite a bit at full speed and the nose was very light on 6S. I think my next move will be to set the boat up for four 3S packs (still 6S to each motor). I did notice that one of my struts is trimmed up slightly and that may be where some speed is hiding. I'm having a blast with this boat! It is a ton of fun to drive. The twins sound very cool and I really like the way it handles.
141605 141606

[kfxguy]

I had some time and flat water this morning to finally open the twin up fully. It ran 58.6mph on two 3S packs (6S to each motor) and 36.7mph on two 2S packs (4S to each motor). This is the out of the box stock configuration. I've only changed the battery plugs on the Y harness. No other adjustments. My packs were as far forward as possible while still being strapped down by the most forward velcro strap. The boat bounced quite a bit at full speed and the nose was very light on 6S. I think my next move will be to set the boat up for four 3S packs (still 6S to each motor). I did notice that one of my struts is trimmed up slightly and that may be where some speed is hiding. I'm having a blast with this boat! It is a ton of fun to drive. The twins sound very cool and I really like the way it handles.
141605 141606



Sharpen the props. Put the struts level. The strut having positive will make it bounce. You shouldn't need extra weight. I'm only running a pair of 3s in mine. Mine did bounce with the batts towards the rear but Raphael told me to move them up and no bounce at all at any speed. Should we start a modding thread like the voracity? I've got some plans for mine......

[arrover]

Thanks Travis. I realize those things will help it run better but I'm just getting a totally stock baseline since this was only the second time I've run it. Good to know you're still running a pair of 3S. I've been thinking the same thing as you! We need a mod thread! I've got some plans too.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Sharpen the props. Put the struts level. The strut having positive will make it bounce. You shouldn't need extra weight. I'm only running a pair of 3s in mine. Mine did bounce with the batts towards the rear but Raphael told me to move them up and no bounce at all at any speed. Should we start a modding thread like the voracity? I've got some plans for mine......

Agreed. Most every video, other than the one where I'm running laps, has been done with just 2 packs and you will notice the boat doesn't bounce.

The manual explains how to check and adjust your struts. It says use a ruler to measure to make sure they are level. Here is a picture to help. The distance between the hash marks should be 4mm to 3.75mm. The ruler is represented by the black line. It must lay across the middle and rear pad and extend past the strut.
http://i961.photobucket.com/albums/ae92/rlopez8/Zelos%20Struts_zpsmdzgue1n.jpg~original (http://s961.photobucket.com/user/rlopez8/media/Zelos%20Struts_zpsmdzgue1n.jpg.html)

[kfxguy]

Perfect Raphael, thanks for the illustration. I've had to answer this question a few times over the past couple days from people who bought them. Don't mind but the picture says 1000 words.

Arrover I'll start a thread. I've got a few things I've tried that I didn't mention

[zooma]

Saw one run at the club lake today, 2 x 3S, sharpened props. Very nice. The owner is very happy so far. The boat got a lot of attention.

[Rafael_Lopez]

I don't know if I ever shared this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1QOvs-t2OnQ

[arrover]

Agreed. Most every video, other than the one where I'm running laps, has been done with just 2 packs and you will notice the boat doesn't bounce.

Interesting. Thank you for that info. I thought that you included the Y adapter so that it was cheaper for people to get this boat running but that it ran better with 4 packs in it.

[Rafael_Lopez]

For what you were doing in the video you posted, the adapter will work fine. That's the moderate way of running you can do with the adapter, which I mention in our video. If you are going to go do laps for 4 minutes straight, without ever letting off the throttle, you will heat up the adapter and it will come undersold.

With 4 packs, each ESC works better because the amperage is dedicated to each ESC, so things run cooler. Your packs will stress less that way.

[Rafael_Lopez]

I wanted to share with everyone that I was able to beat and set a new NAMBA 2 lap Q-cat record with this boat. It is stock other than sharpened and balanced props. Previous record was 2 laps in 0:33.8. I ran a 0:31.2. My unofficial fastest was 0:30 but it didn't count because I had over 10,000mAh to each ESC. Here is a picture of my unofficial run where my fastest speed was 63 mph. Again, this is all stock, including timing.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e21/jAndrew/Mobile%20Uploads/5E6EBEAC-253C-4862-9032-6AF5297CB0B3_zpsbvwq44zy.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/jAndrew/media/Mobile%20Uploads/5E6EBEAC-253C-4862-9032-6AF5297CB0B3_zpsbvwq44zy.jpg.html)

[kfxguy]

THIS IS SO AWESOME!!!!! rtr boat....bam!

[Rafael_Lopez]

Going back tomorrow, shooting for a 0:29. I just have to tighten up my turn around the right buoys. If I can unofficially get a :30, I know I can officially get a :29 just by tightening my turns. It's amazing how well the boat handles the turns around the buoys, only letting off to head in to the turn. You can get on it and fling the boat out of the corner at full throttle.

[Tamelesstgr]

Makes me want to stop my v-hull build, sell everything and order one of these!

[mavdriver]

Really love this cat thats my next rc purchase :smile:

[Keagan-Z06]

Will the Zelos handle this sort of chop? This is the reason I can't really do any WOT runs with the voracity. Just short burst from time to time.


http://youtu.be/Rs7VzzY6QYk

[Mxkid261]

Will the Zelos handle this sort of chop? This is the reason I can't really do any WOT runs with the voracity. Just short burst from time to time.


http://youtu.be/Rs7VzzY6QYk

That water looks pretty rough Lol. Im sure it will "handle" that chop but your probably not going to be able to use the boat to its full potential if your conditions are normally like that, not saying it still wouldnt be fun :wink:

[Rafael_Lopez]

Mount the packs all the way forward and drop the struts 2mm, maybe 2.5mm. But I've never ran in water that rough, other than with the Zelos 48.

[gfmarlin88]

Other than having exceptional turning at high speed capabilities, what other benefits does the twin 36 have when compared to the 48? They seem to have relatively the same top speed. Is the hull of the 48 just as thick as the 36 because I've seen some having cracked their rockstar hulls which is same as the zelos. Do both boats handle waters not as rough as posted above the same or would the larger be less likely to want to flip when weight is placed towards front? I plan on running on the river where I'm located which is relatively smooth at times and can't help but wonder how a big 48 would be compared to the 36 for overall reliable fun. We never saw any hype with the 48 like the 36 has turned out to be. Already just as many videos of the 36 online as the 48 thats been out for 6 months.

[Keagan-Z06]

That water looks pretty rough Lol. Im sure it will "handle" that chop but your probably not going to be able to use the boat to its full potential if your conditions are normally like that, not saying it still wouldnt be fun :wink:

Yeah that's what I'm dealing with here, until I can get a canoe or dingy, the river is the only calm spot but then again like I mentioned, I'm reluctant to even go get it, 3ft shoulder drop followed by an immediate 50ft. Not my kinda San Andreas rescue. I'm sure the Zelos will be a blast. Have we had multiple prop changes as yet on the Zelos?

[pistol18]

CONGRATS Rafael and Darin too! I wish there was some organized racing closer to me.

[JPriami]

I got my Zelos 36 today. Looks really nice & the hardware looks really good too. Im glad Proboat has been doing good things with their models. I was happy to see the in hull water pickups & nice rudder setup as well.

Im curious about the esc program card. Looks just like a turnigy/seaking/hobbywing esc program box. Will any of the esc programs cards I mention that look similar work all the same on these esc's?
141657141658141659

Also is there enough room to put two 5000Mah 4s 14.8v or two 5000Mah 6s 22.2v packs under the lid & power each esc directly from each pack? Meaning not using a harness. I haven't measured yet so I thought Id ask. Might have to mount in sponsons?

The props look like x442 pair replicas. Anyone try anything else with the stock setup (motors & esc's) other than prop sharpening & balancing?

Also would a couple 40mm by 74mm with cans fit inside there okay on stock mounts?

[kfxguy]

Raphael is at an event with the zelos right now. I'll answer what I can.

The hobbywing Seaking program card does work, the marine version does. The car version I had no luck.

Stacked on top of each other, (4) 5000 3s won't work. So for sure 4s won't work. But smaller mah (4000ish) 3s will work. Now I think you can put 4 batts flat....another pair to the front.

I haven't tried any different props yet (well I did but it flipped in quick order...needs strut adjustment) I do havens few things to try if the weather clears up.

I wouldn't put much heavier or longer motors on the stock mounts without some rear support. They are strong but a longheavy motor may stress the mounts.

It will handle moderately rough water on 4s. I wouldn't run it on 6 s in rough stuff unless you have a way to get it. Also if it's rough enough to unload the props constantly then I definitely wouldn't for fear of motor damage.


There is plent of room for two 4s packs to power each esc seperately

[Keagan-Z06]

Kfx, does dual 4s overheat anything? I assume motor and ESC would need upgrade?

[kfxguy]

Kfx, does dual 4s overheat anything? I assume motor and ESC would need upgrade?

If you are running 4s to each motor. Not in series to make 8s, that would fry the escs. 4s runs mid 40's on stock props and would handle some chop. I posted some vids of mine in my thread.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Kfx, does dual 4s overheat anything? I assume motor and ESC would need upgrade?

Can you clear up what you mean by dual 4s? Do you mean 2, 4s packs total; 4s to each ESC?

[Keagan-Z06]

Hey Rafael,
2 4s packs total I'm referring to.

[Rafael_Lopez]

You can connect 2-6s to each ESC individually. The lower the voltage, the less amps each motor will comsume. Also, everything will run cooler with less voltage.

[Yellow]

So its obviously more efficient to run four (4) 3s battery packs total? Two (2) 3s packs in series for 6s power on each motor?
Whats the little "black" buttons right next to the esc on/off buttons for? I couldn't find that in the manual, so I thought I would ask.
Will four (4) 6s battery packs ran in parallel fit under the canopy?
I have to still purchase batteries, and would like to get an idea of what kind and how many.
What quad charger would you recommend?
With fast strait runs and corner drifting, and just fast fun boating period, how much "average" run time can a person expect with "four" 3s batteries at 5000mah each? 5 minutes?

Thanks in advance for the help.

P.S. Why would anybody want to run this boat on 4s? I'm not trying to sound ignorant, I just don't know.

[Rafael_Lopez]

They say pictures are worth a thousand words. Notice the speed difference between running 4 packs and 2 packs. A lot of your answered are in these pictures. This video will explain more as well. http://youtu.be/yxKhCWo6NVY
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e21/jAndrew/Mobile%20Uploads/5E6EBEAC-253C-4862-9032-6AF5297CB0B3_zpsbvwq44zy.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/jAndrew/media/Mobile%20Uploads/5E6EBEAC-253C-4862-9032-6AF5297CB0B3_zpsbvwq44zy.jpg.html)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e21/jAndrew/Mobile%20Uploads/0E04FEFF-7AB5-4554-A59C-22B13EE71B28_zps5mbi0aqe.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/jAndrew/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0E04FEFF-7AB5-4554-A59C-22B13EE71B28_zps5mbi0aqe.jpg.html)

[JPriami]

Thanks for the pics there Rafael. Im curious why 4 packs at 22.2v vs 2 packs at 22.2v would give you faster speeds? Its only 2.4 Mph though. That could just be variations in water conditions or wind. I'd think the extra weight would cause it to be a little slower if anything.

So my next question is are 3s 5000Mah 11.1v packs the largest that will fit under the lid on the trays? I was thinking of ordering a couple of 5000Mah 14.8v 4s packs and power each ESC directly with no extra crossover plugs.
So far I have two 7.4v 90C 7500Mah packs Ill use for 14.8v & two 11.1v 65C 6000Mah packs for 22.2v

Im still waiting to go run mine I got it this Saturday. I have had time to go over it in depth. I found the prop shafts where they solder to the flex cables are a little bent. It made it very difficult to remove the cables when I inspected the line for lubrication. Also the rudder cable on the left side must have been gripped with a pair of pliers when they put the ball end on it. You could see and feel where the pliers slipped and made a groove. That was preventing the cable from moving as it should. Plus the coating on the wire/cable is coming off easily. So I added a little mercury teflon marine grease on them when I put them back in to help the slide factor.

In the mean time, patiently waiting.
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/20160320_185722.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/20160320_185742.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/20160320_185757.jpg

[Keagan-Z06]

That's a beauty, can't wait to get mine end of the week hopefully.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Please see my comments in bold. Those are some really nice pictures.
Thanks for the pics there Rafael. Im curious why 4 packs at 22.2v vs 2 packs at 22.2v would give you faster speeds? Its only 2.4 Mph though. That could just be variations in water conditions or wind. I'd think the extra weight would cause it to be a little slower if anything.

Those pictures were taken on the same day, within just a couple hours. Parallel systems are less efficient because both ESCs have to share the same amperage. If you have 2, 5000 mAh 50C packs in series, they deliver 250 amps which has to be shared between both system. If you have 2, 5000mAh packs in in series to each system( 4 packs total), now they each get 250A individually. So 1, each system will run more efficiently, and 2, your batteries don't have to work as hard to feed both systems. This is apparent by the increase of speed shown in the pictures I posted. It may not seem lot a huge gain, but my batteries were warmer and I got better run time. As to the weight, we found yesterday at the NAMBA 2 lap event that the boat handles better with the weight. But in all honesty, it really comes down to the type of boating you are doing and the packs you have available.

So my next question is are 3s 5000Mah 11.1v packs the largest that will fit under the lid on the trays? I was thinking of ordering a couple of 5000Mah 14.8v 4s packs and power each ESC directly with no extra crossover plugs.
So far I have two 7.4v 90C 7500Mah packs Ill use for 14.8v & two 11.1v 65C 6000Mah packs for 22.2v

3S packs are the max voltage packs you can fit in the battery tray, under the deck, as shown in both pictures. I run my packs all the way in there because I run my struts with only 1mm of negative angle, which allows me to run the boat is most any water condition without too much risk of flipping backwards. 5000 4s and 6s packs don't fit under the deck to place the batteries that far forward, so you will need to adjust more negative angle than 1mm to trim out your boat. This is also the case with props with high rake, which require 2-3mm of negative angle to compensate for lack of lift. The bot fits 6s packs just fine, but you need to replace the straps with ones that are at least 300mm long. The straps are just long enough to secure 5000mAh 4s packs.

Im still waiting to go run mine I got it this Saturday. I have had time to go over it in depth. I found the prop shafts where they solder to the flex cables are a little bent. It made it very difficult to remove the cables when I inspected the line for lubrication. Also the rudder cable on the left side must have been gripped with a pair of pliers when they put the ball end on it. You could see and feel where the pliers slipped and made a groove. That was preventing the cable from moving as it should. Plus the coating on the wire/cable is coming off easily. So I added a little mercury teflon marine grease on them when I put them back in to help the slide factor. Are you describing score marks on the "plunger" portion of the push/pull system with the red end on it?

In the mean time, patiently waiting.

[JPriami]

Thanks for the info and tips on the batteries Rafael. Yes on the rudder push pull system sore marks on the plunger. The marks were on the steel shafts part that goes in & out of the mock up hydraulics.

I'll get some pictures of her on the lake soon. Photography is another hobby of mine so it's fun to run my rc & get pictures too.

[kfxguy]

Thanks for the info and tips on the batteries Rafael. Yes on the rudder push pull system sore marks on the plunger. The marks were on the steel shafts part that goes in & out of the mock up hydraulics.

I'll get some pictures of her on the lake soon. Photography is another hobby of mine so it's fun to run my rc & get pictures too.

Well Raphael can't control everything lol. If they were all hand build by him I'm sure they would all be perfect, but unfortunately he has a life and can't build them all for us so sometimes things slip through the cracks . Once you run it, your going to fall in love with it :). I know I did. All of my other boats are mad at me right now because they haven't been getting any attention lately. I did finally bring another boat with me yesterday but just to maiden it lol.

[JPriami]

I'm sure he would. I don't post this stuff to complain. I figure since someone from the company is here and might see a post. That maybe they would have some clout to mention these things to production to make sure little quirks like this could be avoided. Long ago one of my past jobs was working at a boat factory for real boats. So I know it can be valuable quality control.

I can't wait to go run. Weather has turned cool again here.

[Rafael_Lopez]

I'd love to have pictures of any "defects" so I can address this with the vendor.

If you have any issues with the steering system getting cought up, let me know and we'll send you out a new set of steering plungers.

I appreciate all the feedback I can get. It helps us stay on our toes and continue to better our products. :)

[Mercer2]

Does the zelos 36 have a low voltage cut off on their esc?

[kfxguy]

Does the zelos 36 have a low voltage cut off on their esc?

Yes. Is programmable with a program box

[Rafael_Lopez]

Default setting is 3.2v/cell, as outlined in the manual.
http://www.e-fliterc.com/ProdInfo/Files/PRB08021_Manual_EN.pdf

[JPriami]

Well I got to maiden her today. Lots of fun. Made me realize how much I miss boating. Here are a few snaps. I wish I knew someone I trust to drive while I took pictures of her running. Id love to get some action shots with spray & high speed shutter mode. I have some video from the drone & on shore I haven't looked at yet.

I think with a simple prop change I could get a few more mph.

http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.21.16/DSC_0416.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.21.16/DSC_0426.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.21.16/DSC_0431.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.21.16/DSC_0435.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.21.16/DSC_0437.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/20160319_204229b.jpg

[Rafael_Lopez]

Absolutely beautiful pictures!! I went from 58 to 63mph with just a sharpen and balance job on the stock props. It's amazing what prepared props can do.

Can't wait to see what you got on video.


By the way, do you mind if I steal 1 of your pictures to use it as the cover photo on my Facebook page?

[kfxguy]

Beautiful pictures! Wish my lake water was that nice!

[JPriami]

Thanks Rafael & Kfx. Your more than welcome to use any of the pictures you'd like. Whats the link to the facebook page?

[kfxguy]

Jpraimi, please post in my mod thread when you swap props. Or even sharpen yours.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Thanks Rafael & Kfx. Your more than welcome to use any of the pictures you'd like. Whats the link to the facebook page?

The link to my page is in my signature, below.

[JPriami]

On my cleaning and inspection before I put her away till next time. I found alot of grease had come out of both the outdrives. It appears there is a small gap between the end of the firber glass wall (transom) & the outdrive where they meet. i dont know how to remedy this other than to use a little epoxy to fill the void? Or loosen the outdrive bolts and see if it will slide up a tich.

http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.21.16/DSC_0447.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.21.16/DSC_0452.jpg

[Rafael_Lopez]

First time I see that. I'd carefully put a little bit of clear silicone over that gap.

I'll reach out to the vendor to tighten up inspection. Thanks for sharing this.

[Keagan-Z06]

I wanted to share with everyone that I was able to beat and set a new NAMBA 2 lap Q-cat record with this boat. It is stock other than sharpened and balanced props. Previous record was 2 laps in 0:33.8. I ran a 0:31.2. My unofficial fastest was 0:30 but it didn't count because I had over 10,000mAh to each ESC. Here is a picture of my unofficial run where my fastest speed was 63 mph. Again, this is all stock, including timing.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e21/jAndrew/Mobile%20Uploads/5E6EBEAC-253C-4862-9032-6AF5297CB0B3_zpsbvwq44zy.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/jAndrew/media/Mobile%20Uploads/5E6EBEAC-253C-4862-9032-6AF5297CB0B3_zpsbvwq44zy.jpg.html)

Hey Rafael,

What batteries are you using in the pic above?

[Keagan-Z06]

Well I got to maiden her today. Lots of fun. Made me realize how much I miss boating. Here are a few snaps. I wish I knew someone I trust to drive while I took pictures of her running. Id love to get some action shots with spray & high speed shutter mode. I have some video from the drone & on shore I haven't looked at yet.

I think with a simple prop change I could get a few more mph.

http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.21.16/DSC_0416.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.21.16/DSC_0426.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.21.16/DSC_0431.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.21.16/DSC_0435.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.21.16/DSC_0437.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/20160319_204229b.jpg

Now that is beautiful. What camera you using and settings if I may ask? I also use my Phantom 3 Pro to capture video but I can't Pilot the drone and Captain the Voracity at once.

[petej]

Can I program the stock Dynamite ESC's using the Seaking LED Program Box (http://www.hobbywing.com/goods.php?id=372&filter_attr=)?

[paulfromtulsa]

Is that stock receiver waterproof

[Rafael_Lopez]

Hey Rafael,

What batteries are you using in the pic above?
Team Orion sends me 90C soft pack LiPos. They don't sell soft packs.


Can I program the stock Dynamite ESC's using the Seaking LED Program Box (http://www.hobbywing.com/goods.php?id=372&filter_attr=)?Some say it works, I've never tried it. If the firmware isn't compatible it can corrupt the ESC.


Is that stock receiver waterproof
It is conformal coated, not potted. If you wet it, open the case and dry it, or discontinue use and leave it in the sun to try. If you get corrosion around the pins, clean it off with an old tooth brush. But in all reality, if you tape your hatch you will never get a drop of water in the boat.

[JPriami]

Keagan-Z06, thank you. In those pictures except for the last picture. I was using a Nikon D5500 & the 55-300mm lens.

[JPriami]

Jpraimi, please post in my mod thread when you swap props. Or even sharpen yours.

Ok. I already balanced and lightly sharpened them. I did that Saturday(3.19.16) night. Then maiden her the following Monday(3.21.16). I'll be going out again Saturday 3.26.16 if weather permits. I have a pair of props I'm gonna try then. I am currently gps poor tho. I need to get another one soon. I just ordered my 2nd pair of the 11.1v 6000Mah 65c graphine packs so more go juice had priority.

[Keagan-Z06]

Ok. I already balanced and lightly sharpened them. I did that Saturday(3.19.16) night. Then maiden her the following Monday(3.21.16). I'll be going out again Saturday 3.26.16 if weather permits. I have a pair of props I'm gonna try then. I am currently gps poor tho. I need to get another one soon. I just ordered my 2nd pair of the 11.1v 6000Mah 65c graphine packs so more go juice had priority.

Can that battery work with ec5 plugs? I just ordered my second set of 11.1v 5000Mah 50c dynamite lipos in preparation for the Zelos

[JPriami]

I put my own ec5 plugs on it. As I always put my own plugs on everything I get. Memory is a little rusty but i think ec5 is rated for 120 amps. Esc is a 120 amp also. I have been known to use larger bullets. But this time I was just trying to keep it simple & match what the boat has. Also I can use my packs for my rc truck that I have ec5 on it. Well not the graphene packs but my other 7.4v 95c 7.500mah ones

[JPriami]

I got a DX4C DSMR 4-Channel AVC Transmitter with SRS4210 reciver to use on the Zelos. I wanted a water proof reciver for it. I figured I'd ask. Should I run it with the AVC on or turn it off?

Edit:*The AVC system is not recommended for use in RC boats. So I'll leave that feature off.

[gfmarlin88]

I can't help but wonder why the zelos 48 never had near as much popularity as the 36 twin.....

[Keagan-Z06]

Keagan-Z06, thank you. In those pictures except for the last picture. I was using a Nikon D5500 & the 55-300mm lens.

Thanks man! I am dying here waiting on my Zelos, I believe I won't get it until next week after the Easter Holidays. I went to my usual spot the other day to just get a run in, not pushing it, just cruising and took the Phantom 3 out with me, took my dad and my girl and both chicken out when it was time to pilot the drone or boat. So I couldn't get any footage. Will try again soon.

[Keagan-Z06]

I put my own ec5 plugs on it. As I always put my own plugs on everything I get. Memory is a little rusty but i think ec5 is rated for 120 amps. Esc is a 120 amp also. I have been known to use larger bullets. But this time I was just trying to keep it simple & match what the boat has. Also I can use my packs for my rc truck that I have ec5 on it. Well not the graphene packs but my other 7.4v 95c 7.500mah ones

Sorry for the dumb ? here but how do you "put on your own EC5 plugs" I don't have the boat in front of me right now, so I can't really picture it, do you make them? Buy adapters? How is it done? I would want to give other packs a try but I always see them with Deans plugs, EC3 or some other type of connectors. Thanks!

[Keagan-Z06]

I can't help but wonder why the zelos 48 never had near as much popularity as the 36 twin.....

I'm thinking most people want fast and Electric boats seem to outrun the gas? Have no idea, just throwing that lame assumption out there!

[Keagan-Z06]

Plz delete

[Rafael_Lopez]

I can't help but wonder why the zelos 48 never had near as much popularity as the 36 twin.....
Unfortunately the Zelos 48 was released during winter, or the beginning of, which is not the ideal time to release a boat. I think that, along with the fact that to get top speed it has to be run on 8s, has put some people off. The 36 seems to be more of what people have been asking Pro Boat to make for some time know, along with being 6s compatible for top speed hits a tighter audience. Now that the twin has been released, I am going to start putting more time back in to the project and getting some more tuning in to, and speed out of the boat.


Sorry for the dumb ? here but how do you "put on your own EC5 plugs" I don't have the boat in front of me right now, so I can't really picture it, do you make them? Buy adapters? How is it done? I would want to give other packs a try but I always see them with Deans plugs, EC3 or some other type of connectors. Thanks! You simple solder them on like you would any other connector. Here is a video to illustrate how to solder on EC connectors to a battery; EC3 or EC5, the method is the same. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYpJI1zJXOo

[Keagan-Z06]

Unfortunately the Zelos 48 was released during winter, or the beginning of, which is not the ideal time to release a boat. I think that, along with the fact that to get top speed it has to be run on 8s, has put some people off. The 36 seems to be more of what people have been asking Pro Boat to make for some time know, along with being 6s compatible for top speed hits a tighter audience. Now that the twin has been released, I am going to start putting more time back in to the project and getting some more tuning in to, and speed out of the boat.

You simple solder them on like you would any other connector. Here is a video to illustrate how to solder on EC connectors to a battery; EC3 or EC5, the method is the same. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYpJI1zJXOo

Was just looking up videos, thanks as always Rafael. Im getting impatient waiting for the Zelos and this damn windy weather here is not helping the Voracity. :mad:

[Rafael_Lopez]

Was just looking up videos, thanks as always Rafael. Im getting impatient waiting for the Zelos and this damn windy weather here is not helping the Voracity. :mad:

I don't know, Apexpredator is having some good runs with his Voracity in wind that he says is gusting to 30mph.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRCjZUwu7c4&feature=youtu.be

[Keagan-Z06]

I don't know, Apexpredator is having some good runs with his Voracity in wind that he says is gusting to 30mph.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRCjZUwu7c4&feature=youtu.be

Not implying the boat can't handle it but i have worse sea conditions than I posted in an earlier video. Mother Nature not having it this week.

[JPriami]

Well I ordered the dynamite program box. It's not doing anything. Just shows the dashes and that's it.
My esc is the DYNM3876 vs the DYNM3875 it states in the manual. Also I can't find this esc program guide (DYNM3876) to do it manually. I'll try the DYNM3875 manual.

141866

[Keagan-Z06]

I assume you got this to play with timing?

[JPriami]

I got it to double check settings.

I figured it out. I had to manually program each esc with the pistol. After that the program card worked.

[Rafael_Lopez]

I got it to double check settings.

I figured it out. I had to manually program each esc with the pistol. After that the program card worked.

That is weird, I have never had that be the case, where you have to program via TX before you can use the card.

Could it be that you had the connections in 180* from how they should be plugged in to the ESC? If you plug the card in backwards you usually just get hash marks.


**Edit, now that I am looking at your picture better, did you plug the ESC lead that goes in to the RX in to the card? The card plugs in to the 3 pins sticking out near where the switch wires come out of the board, not the ESC RX lead.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Program card plugs in here. Don't mind the rust on the screw, I ran in salt water.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e21/jAndrew/Mobile%20Uploads/2F4EC62B-97FE-4F39-A42D-FEBF7FE69D8B_zpssjxhz6xj.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/jAndrew/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2F4EC62B-97FE-4F39-A42D-FEBF7FE69D8B_zpssjxhz6xj.jpg.html)

[JPriami]

Rafael, At first I tried the esc leads. Then I tried the esc prongs that stick up like in your picture. Neither method worked on either esc. I gave up on the program card. Then programmed them manually. After that out of curiosity I plugged the card back in & only then would it work. It was very odd. I've programmed many esc's before. This was a first.

[arrover]

I finally had some time and smooth (glass) water to do some tuning on the stock boat. I still can not get the porpoise/bounce tuned out of this thing. It's bad enough that it concerns me to hold full throttle for very long but I did GPS the first setup below at 55._mph. Here's what I tried this morning:
- Struts level with rear pad, Four 3S 5000mah packs = bounce
- Struts level with rear pad, Two 3S 5000mah packs all the way back = bounce
- Struts almost imperceivably negative/down, Two 3S 5000mah packs all the way back = bounce
- Struts positive/up a small amount, Two 3S 5000mah packs all the way back = bounce
- Struts negative/down a noticeable amount (more than first try negative), Two 3S 5000mah packs all the way back = bounce
- Struts negative/down a noticeable amount (more than first try negative), FOUR 3S 5000mah packs = bounce

I'm not quite sure where to go from here. I thought the four packs would settle it down but it didn't seem to help much. At some points I thought the boat was riding a little wet but bringing the struts up a little just made it wheelie/bounce more at speed. I'm new to tuning a cat and I guess I need a little help!

[Rafael_Lopez]

Do not mount your packs far back. If you mount 4 packs, one set has to be buried inside, under the deck and the others right behind. You have to keep the packs as far forward as possible. Set the struts level again and give it another go. The manual explains where to start with LiPo placement and more forward from there if you get bounce, not back.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Notice how far I run my packs. This is how I ran it at the last NAMBA event.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e21/jAndrew/Mobile%20Uploads/0E04FEFF-7AB5-4554-A59C-22B13EE71B28_zps5mbi0aqe.jpg (http://s36.photobucket.com/user/jAndrew/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0E04FEFF-7AB5-4554-A59C-22B13EE71B28_zps5mbi0aqe.jpg.html)

[arrover]

I completely understand Rafael. That's how I have run them in the past on this boat and it porpoises. Level struts, two 3S packs all the way under the deck. Exactly how you have yours. It's very strange. I was trying different setups today just to see if anything else worked.

[Rafael_Lopez]

I may be misunderstanding. Bouncing woul be the boat teetering off balance on the struts, slapping the water as it run; trying to flatten out. Porpoiseing could be cause by running too nose heavy, too much forward weight and negative strut angle. It definitely sounds like a CG issue, unfortunately it's hard to pinpoint over the web. :/

[Keagan-Z06]

I finally had some time and smooth (glass) water to do some tuning on the stock boat. I still can not get the porpoise/bounce tuned out of this thing. It's bad enough that it concerns me to hold full throttle for very long but I did GPS the first setup below at 55._mph. Here's what I tried this morning:
- Struts level with rear pad, Four 3S 5000mah packs = bounce
- Struts level with rear pad, Two 3S 5000mah packs all the way back = bounce
- Struts almost imperceivably negative/down, Two 3S 5000mah packs all the way back = bounce
- Struts positive/up a small amount, Two 3S 5000mah packs all the way back = bounce
- Struts negative/down a noticeable amount (more than first try negative), Two 3S 5000mah packs all the way back = bounce
- Struts negative/down a noticeable amount (more than first try negative), FOUR 3S 5000mah packs = bounce

I'm not quite sure where to go from here. I thought the four packs would settle it down but it didn't seem to help much. At some points I thought the boat was riding a little wet but bringing the struts up a little just made it wheelie/bounce more at speed. I'm new to tuning a cat and I guess I need a little help!

Thats a lot of testing right there. I certainly wouldnt have the patience to try all that in one day. How long did you spend at the lake?

[zooma]

Thats a lot of testing right there. I certainly wouldnt have the patience to try all that in one day. How long did you spend at the lake?

A related question: How many guys are in the pit crew?

[arrover]

Haha! You guys are soooo funny! No, it wasn't to bad because that was only three changes to the strut angle. The rest was battery placement. Run a few straights back and forth and come in to try something else. It was calm and the sun was shining so it was pleasant.

[arrover]

This video is from my first run this morning. The struts were parallel with the rear ride pads. The boat was carrying four 3S 5000mah packs. Two as far forward under the deck as possible and two behind them (all in the battery trays made for this size battery). I was thinking that the weight of four batteries would eliminate the bouncing. Is it possible that I'm measuring strut height/angle incorrectly? I've been putting a straight edge on the rear ride pad and comparing the strut angle to that.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1A84tiKHRqE

[Rafael_Lopez]

Arrower, that definitely looks like a CG/setup issue.

I posted this back in page 3. Make sure you measure as shown in this picture, not just off the rear pad as it is angled and will give you a false measurement. I use a setup board to set the boat on and measure the distance from the board to the strut. I find it easier than using a ruler. Notice the black runs the length of 2 pads.


Agreed. Most every video, other than the one where I'm running laps, has been done with just 2 packs and you will notice the boat doesn't bounce.

The manual explains how to check and adjust your struts. It says to use a ruler to measure to make sure they are level. Here is a picture to help. The distance between the hash marks should be 4mm to 3.75mm. The ruler is represented by the black line. It must lay across the middle and rear pad and extend past the strut.
http://i961.photobucket.com/albums/ae92/rlopez8/Zelos%20Struts_zpsmdzgue1n.jpg~original (http://s961.photobucket.com/user/rlopez8/media/Zelos%20Struts_zpsmdzgue1n.jpg.html)

[arrover]

Thanks Rafael. I did see that picture before but I didn't take note of the importance of using multiple pads as the reference point. Thank you for the help. I hope you don't think I was trying to blast ProBoat. I was fully aware that it was a setup issue and not a product issue. That video is unlisted on youtube so it will only show up here. So, do you lay your boat on a flat surface and measure the strut from that surface? When I do that, the front sponsons lay flat on the counter, the middle pads are off the surface, the boat is resting on the water intakes, and the back edge of the rear pad is maybe .25-.5mm off of the surface. Is that the correct position to measure strut height from or do I need to put something under the boat to support only the rear two pads?

[Rafael_Lopez]

You bring up a valid point. The water pick ups are in the way if you rest the boat on a table. I forget my setup board is drilled so the water pick ups sit in the holes and the boat sits flush. The way it's explained in the manual is to use a long enough ruler across the rear two pads, making sure the ruler extend past the struts. The ruler would be represented by the black line and the water pick ups would not be in the way.

I'll go back and edit my post regarding placing it on a table. Thanks for catching that.

I didn't take your post in any other way that you trying to tune your boat and then showing me what it was doing.:biggrin:

[arrover]

Thanks man. I think I'm clear now! That is very helpful.

[JPriami]

Some snaps from yesterday at the lake. We had lots of fun & were there for about 2.5 hours. I have some footage from the drone Im working on editing now. These were taken with my camera but not buy me. I was busy flying on and off the water, no wipe outs. I didnt have a gps, but The Zelos was easily doing over 70mph with the other props on 22.2v. Like a boss. I just did a few runs then put the stocks back on. Everyone that stopped Including the cops said that "yellow boat" caught their attention.

http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.26.16/DSC_0608.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.26.16/DSC_0478.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.26.16/DSC_0601.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.26.16/DSC_0574.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.26.16/DJI_0022.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.26.16/DJI_0014-Pano.jpg

[Keagan-Z06]

Some snaps from yesterday at the lake. We had lots of fun & were there for about 2.5 hours. I have some footage from the drone Im working on editing now. These were taken with my camera but not buy me. I was busy flying on and off the water, no wipe outs. I didnt have a gps, but The Zelos was easily doing over 70mph with the other props on 22.2v. Like a boss. I just did a few runs then put the stocks back on. Everyone that stopped Including the cops said that "yellow boat" caught their attention.

http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.26.16/DSC_0608.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.26.16/DSC_0478.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.26.16/DSC_0601.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.26.16/DSC_0574.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.26.16/DJI_0022.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.26.16/DJI_0014-Pano.jpg

Beautiful as always man! The Zelos looks like a beast! I still haven't ran mine yet. Hopefully tomorrow I can.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Sweet, great pictures!! I have no doubt that the stock electronics can handle aftermarket props, within reason. Especially if you go down 1 click on timing, instead of going up. The electronics have plenty of hear room considering stock amperage consumption is relatively low.

What props are they, BTW?

[forescott]

Just picked up the zelos twin. So not sure what the 1.4 x 1.65 prop size is equivalent to in octura sizing. I tried doing the math but my brain hurts!

[JPriami]

Forescott, Octura x442?

Rafael, abc 1816 3 blade I think. I'll have to double check when I get back.

[Mxkid261]

Awesome pictures I have a nice lake I run at right by my house but your spot looks prime lol

[forescott]

Also wondering if the stock props are cast or machined. I hate balancing props so I wanna order a set of CNC counter rotating same size as stock or maybe a hair larger. Was thinking the counter rotating 4314's if the stock ones are 42mm.

[JPriami]

Stock props are cast I believe. Stainless.

[arrover]

I set the struts at 4mm like Rafael described and the speeds came way up. 63.2mph with two 3S packs all the way forward and unsharpened stock props. I swapped to an identical set of fully charged packs and ran them with another set also in the boat just for added weight (same power configuration, just more weight) and it ran 54.7mph. I removed the extra batteries (still running the partially depleted second set of batteries) and the speed came up to 58.2mph and the LVC kicked in shortly after (whoops). Thanks again for the help Rafael. The boat still bounces the same way all the time but the speeds are where they should be. One time in two sets of packs it stopped bouncing at full speed and looked planted at the same time. I think it might have been when I headed into a little breeze but I'm not positive. Anyway, fun times at the lake!
141942 141943 141944

[bigcam406]

Some snaps from yesterday at the lake. We had lots of fun & were there for about 2.5 hours. I have some footage from the drone Im working on editing now. These were taken with my camera but not buy me. I was busy flying on and off the water, no wipe outs. I didnt have a gps, but The Zelos was easily doing over 70mph with the other props on 22.2v. Like a boss. I just did a few runs then put the stocks back on. Everyone that stopped Including the cops said that "yellow boat" caught their attention.

http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.26.16/DSC_0608.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.26.16/DSC_0478.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.26.16/DSC_0601.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.26.16/DSC_0574.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.26.16/DJI_0022.jpg
http://jpriami.com/Photography/Zelos/3.26.16/DJI_0014-Pano.jpg

great pics.beautiful place to run.

[forescott]

Any zelos owners out there that can check the stock prop diameter with a micrometer in mm?

[Darin Jordan]

Any zelos owners out there that can check the stock prop diameter with a micrometer in mm?

Guys, I think it's been mentioned already, but the props are basically X442s.

[arrover]

Guys, I think it's been mentioned already, but the props are basically X442s.

Yes and the diameter of both of my stock props measure 42.35mm.

[Plp350z]

I have a question and the question is I have one battery that keeps on losing connection because it melts the Sauter and then I am dead on the water. Can you help me out

[kfxguy]

I have a question and the question is I have one battery that keeps on losing connection because it melts the Sauter and then I am dead on the water. Can you help me out

Where does it melt connection at?
What batteries are they?
What's the mah and c rating? 5000mah and 50c minimum is highly recommended, for quality packs. (I don't consider nano techs quality packs)
What's the speed of the boat? That will give an idea of how wet it's running.
What cell count?
How long are your battery wires?

Please try to answer all the questions, it's important so we can point you in the right direction

[gman350]

Has anybody used any of the CNC props that OSE has?

They have a 42mm in left hand and right hand rotation, 2.32" total pitch.

Just wondering if they would be a valid option for someone, like myself, that doesn't enjoy sharpening & balancing.

[Keagan-Z06]

Has anybody used any of the CNC props that OSE has?

They have a 42mm in left hand and right hand rotation, 2.32" total pitch.

Just wondering if they would be a valid option for someone, like myself, that doesn't enjoy sharpening & balancing.

While I currently don't plan to change props on my Zelos, I have no way of balancing a prop, I tried sharpening my stock Voracity prop but stopped before I did more harm than good. Right now there is a X452 prop on it as arrover had in one of his videos. I read somewhere on here that props are available that are already balanced and sharpened for around $55.

[Mxkid261]

Has anybody used any of the CNC props that OSE has?

They have a 42mm in left hand and right hand rotation, 2.32" total pitch.

Just wondering if they would be a valid option for someone, like myself, that doesn't enjoy sharpening & balancing.

I ran a 43mm CNC prop when I built my single 32" cat and it had a lot of prop walk/porpoising and just drove kinda funky, travis said try an m445 and it drives perfect now if that helps any but obviously a twin is going to react differently! dasboata can prep a nice pair of props for you, someone with more prop knowledge than me will likely chime in just figured I'd share my experience!

[Keagan-Z06]

Zelos meets Rock! :doh: :sad:

I guess the old saying "patience is a virtue" really holds water. I was so excited to throw the Zelos on the water. It was all prepped for its maiden voyage, seas were calmer than anything that I have ran in, while not anything like you guys run in. So I have my brother piloting the Phantom 3 Pro, I do a couple slow runs in a circle, increased it mildly but never WOT. On its last run, while heading in the direction back to shore, if I had to guess I was doing somewhere between 30-35mph, the Zelos drifted to its left more than I would like and slammed into a rock, HARD! My heart melted at that sound. My brother caught the whole thing on the drone. Upon inspection, I cringed but held it together and told myself this can be repaired. For now I have pictures but the video might be a while for me to upload. For the tight turns I needed to take, I should of adjusted my rudder rate about 3/4. All captain error here, Zelos ran well in mild to favorable conditions. It will return after repairs. On a side note, to save myself a entire day of disappointment, I ran home to get the Voracity with the new Octura x452 and my oh my does that prop wake up that boat. Anyhow, I am taking this much better than I thought. Lesson learned, the Zelos and the Voracity are two different beast and must be treated as such, both have different style of slicing and dicing the waters. Enough of my moaning, pictures below. (screenshots from Drone Footage)

Final turn before crash:
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What I saw before wreck
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Wreck
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Aftermath
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[Keagan-Z06]

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Ended the day with this! Note here the waters got rougher when the Voracity was out, I assure you this was not the conditions the Zelos was in. We took maybe 1hr-1.5hrs before we took out the Voracity!

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[arrover]

Oh man.... So sorry to see that Keagan. But like you say, it can be repaired. The Zelos and Voracity do handle way differently.

CNC props work fine although I prefer copper/beryllium props because they are tougher. Where I run there can be small floating debris. An aluminum CNC prop is more likely to get dented or nicked in that situation. The leading edges on the CNC props are fairly thin and sharp and you can flex the leading edges with your fingers. If you run in clean water, you may never have a problem. The CNC and copper/beryllium props are roughly the same cost and if you sharpen and balance yourself, you end up with a superior prop (in my opinion). If you're talking CNC vs a prefinished Octura/ABC/etc then the CNC prop will be around half price.

[Keagan-Z06]

Oh man.... So sorry to see that Keagan. But like you say, it can be repaired. The Zelos and Voracity do handle way differently.

CNC props work fine although I prefer copper/beryllium props because they are tougher. Where I run there can be small floating debris. An aluminum CNC prop is more likely to get dented or nicked in that situation. The leading edges on the CNC props are fairly thin and sharp and you can flex the leading edges with your fingers. If you run in clean water, you may never have a problem. The CNC and copper/beryllium props are roughly the same cost and if you sharpen and balance yourself, you end up with a superior prop (in my opinion). If you're talking CNC vs a prefinished Octura/ABC/etc then the CNC prop will be around half price.

Yeah man it sucks but hey what can I do at this point? Had the Zelos been my only boat I would of been pissed! Still hurts since all I got in was about 2 mins before wreck. Is there a video for sharpening props that you guys use? I will need to do the X452 for the Voracity but I don't own a balancer. Can you do one without the other?

[arrover]

I would not run the x452 again (or any Octura/ABC props) until you get it balanced. They are pretty much raw castings when you buy them and they aren't meant to be run that way. You will need a balancer to do it.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Keagan, sorry to see what happened to your boat. It looks to me that as hard as the impact was, the thickness of the hull prevented a water breach, right?


If you want to fix it, it's really easy.
1-Knock off all the fiber glass that's hanging off.
2-Seal all the damaged glass with thin CA glue.
3-Scuff the paint around the damaged area with 400 grit sandpaper.
4-Bondo makes a product called "Bondo Hair" or "Bondo Glass"which is Bondo fiberglass resin mixed with fiberglass shavings.
5-Mix harder in to a small portion and apply as best you can to shape the hull back to it's original shape.
6-I add more Bondo than what is necessary and once dry I start shaping with a rough wood file.
7-Once you have the basic shape with the rough file, then you start sanding.
8-Once sanded smooth I use light weight body filler putty to fill in any pin holes.


If it were any other boat, I'd say this stuff may be too heavy, but given the weight of the Zelos 36, I feel this product will do the job well.
http://www.lwill.net/images/vent/IMG_0549.JPG


I've repaired a Zelos 48 that my old Director ran in to a pole this way and a Rockstar 48 that I ran in to a buoy, as well. To finish it off, I'd paint the tips of the sponsons flat black and you'll never know it was ran up on shore.

[JPriami]

...will fix and repost later

[Keagan-Z06]

Keagan, sorry to see what happened to your boat. It looks to me that as hard as the impact was, the thickness of the hull prevented a water breach, right?


If you want to fix it, it's really easy.
1-Knock off all the fiber glass that's hanging off.
2-Seal all the damaged glass with thin CA glue.
3-Scuff the paint around the damaged area with 400 grit sandpaper.
4-Bondo makes a product called "Bondo Hair" or "Bondo Glass"which is Bondo fiberglass resin mixed with fiberglass shavings.
5-Mix harder in to a small portion and apply as best you can to shape the hull back to it's original shape.
6-I add more Bondo than what is necessary and once dry I start shaping with a rough wood file.
7-Once you have the basic shape with the rough file, then you start sanding.
8-Once sanded smooth I use light weight body filler putty to fill in any pin holes.


If it were any other boat, I'd say this stuff may be too heavy, but given the weight of the Zelos 36, I feel this product will do the job well.
http://www.lwill.net/images/vent/IMG_0549.JPG


I've repaired a Zelos 48 that my old Director ran in to a pole this way and a Rockstar 48 that I ran in to a buoy, as well. To finish it off, I'd paint the tips of the sponsons flat black and you'll never know it was ran up on shore.

Rafael,

Aside from my initial shock, the first thing I thought was that the Zelos took that hit like a champ! No water breach per crash. I did have water breach but Im thinking its because of a loose pickup hose to the ESC. I will take the boat to a boat yard here that makes boats. I don't think I will be able to get back the same color, thats my only problem. If I have to order the paint then I will be out another week or 2 before use.

[Keagan-Z06]

I've repaired a Zelos 48 that my old Director ran in to a pole this way and a Rockstar 48 that I ran in to a buoy, as well. To finish it off, I'd paint the tips of the sponsons flat black and you'll never know it was ran up on shore.

Missed this part, my Dad suggested the same thing about the tip of the boat with black paint, I'm just not sure how it would of looked?

[JPriami]

Here is the video I shot & edited of running rc boats at Luther lake. March 26th 2016. Be aware this is a large video file (2gb). So only watch it if you have a fast Internet connection via wifi or PC. You might want to consider downloading it then watching it. The link to download the video directly is the last link. It's a 1080p 60 fps video that's high quality. So if it glitch or buffers your connection isn't able to keep up for Web streaming. Boats run: traxxas spartan, proboat zelos & venom king of shaves. All only running 14.8v so they are not running at top speed. Special thanks to Chris Oliphant & Dickson parks dept.

http://www.jpriami.com/video/3_26_16.html

http://www.jpriami.com/video/videos/3_26_16.mp4

[forescott]

Has anybody used any of the CNC props that OSE has?

They have a 42mm in left hand and right hand rotation, 2.32" total pitch.

Just wondering if they would be a valid option for someone, like myself, that doesn't enjoy sharpening & balancing.

I just ordered a set of CNC 442's to try out. I hate balancing props. My hands are too big and my eyes aren't soo good anymore. I think they are a great option.

[JPriami]

Let me know how those work for you forescott.
I just ordered a pair of abc 1815-17 to try.

[Plp350z]

I have too 5000 50c venoms
The boat is running at max speed it is stock
My battery leads are 4 in long
It is melting at the batter connection on the black wire
In to the y connection

[gman350]

Thanks guys. I bought a set of the CNC props to try.

I was actually intending on buying the S&B X442s, but they were out of stock.

I tried doing some smaller props in the past and just wasn't very happy with my results.

There are quite a few videos on Youtube, I think I have a pdf that Grim Racer made also.

[gman350]

I have too 5000 50c venoms
The boat is running at max speed it is stock
My battery leads are 4 in long
It is melting at the batter connection on the black wire
In to the y connection

The Y connection that is on the adapter harness that comes with the boat?

[Plp350z]

Yes

[JPriami]

They say not to run it at its max speed on 22.2v for more than a good pass. Then do cool down laps then high speed pass. That the solder will melt off that harness.

[Plp350z]

Thanks man I will try it

[gman350]

Here is the video I shot & edited of running rc boats at Luther lake. March 26th 2016. Be aware this is a large video file (2gb). So only watch it if you have a fast Internet connection via wifi or PC. You might want to consider downloading it then watching it. The link to download the video directly is the last link. It's a 1080p 60 fps video that's high quality. So if it glitch or buffers your connection isn't able to keep up for Web streaming. Boats run: traxxas spartan, proboat zelos & venom king of shaves. All only running 14.8v so they are not running at top speed. Special thanks to Chris Oliphant & Dickson parks dept.

http://www.jpriami.com/video/3_26_16.html

http://www.jpriami.com/video/videos/3_26_16.mp4

Nice video. That looks like a neat place to run boats.

[Keagan-Z06]

Cannot get that video to play for the life of me. Even on our "high speed" connection at work. Started off great but never got pass the Spartan

[gman350]

My interwebs is pretty fast and I ended up having to download the video to watch it, took about 15 minutes, it's a 2GB file.

[JPriami]

Yeah a lot of folks have had trouble with the video streaming. I didn't want to shrink it down anymore because you start to loose quality. Thanks for giving it a try tho.

[JPriami]

I decided to try to upload it to youtube. Maybe this will work.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiNhQDzYmsU

[Rafael_Lopez]

They say not to run it at its max speed on 22.2v for more than a good pass. Then do cool down laps then high speed pass. That the solder will melt off that harness.

Yeah, the adapter is really intended for 2, 2s packs, for 4s and can handle moderate running with 2, 3s packs. Like JPriami said, as long as you are not constant on the throttle for the entire time you run the boat, the adapter will hold up just fine.

[Keagan-Z06]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiNhQDzYmsU

Video nuh worky

[JPriami]

Works for me on my phone. It maybe blocked for you. The music in it had it blocked in certain countries tho. I'm about to just give up lol

[Mxkid261]

Video works on my computer and phone. Nice spot to run

[Rafael_Lopez]

Great video! Nice crowd you gathered too.

[Keagan-Z06]

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Update on my Zelos recovery! I didn't take the picture so forgive me, was sent from the boatyard. Should be finished tomorrow.

[Keagan-Z06]

Works for me on my phone. It maybe blocked for you. The music in it had it blocked in certain countries tho. I'm about to just give up lol

Finally got to see it at work. Great Job man! You all gave the drone a workout! The Spartan seems a bit unstable though, or would it be because of the chop?

[JPriami]

Yeah, the adapter is really intended for 2, 2s packs, for 4s and can handle moderate running with 2, 3s packs. Like JPriami said, as long as you are not constant on the throttle for the entire time you run the boat, the adapter will hold up just fine.


More like how Rafael originally said in his video lol. That's where I heard the info. Just didn't realize it was him in the video till now. Haha.

[Keagan-Z06]

All finished. What you guys think?

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The black decal doesn't run all the way up as before but that can be easily fixed, I will have them made locally.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Wow!!

[arrover]

That repair looks really nice. They must know what their doing at that place.

[Darin Jordan]

Very nice!

[Keagan-Z06]

Thanks guys, I thought it came out pretty well, they make boats for a living and ship them off the the islands or Florida. If anything should happen to the Voracity or the Zelos again, I know where I'm
Taking it.

[JPriami]

Nice work

[forescott]

Great job Keagan!

[Keagan-Z06]

Thanks fellas. Having a rack made for the boats now. :smile:
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[Keagan-Z06]

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[Keagan-Z06]

Not finished but will update as it comes along

[Keagan-Z06]

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[Keagan-Z06]

Don't know why some of my pictures keep posting sideways. But you get the idea! Tomorrow it should be finished after stain, seal, varnish!

JPriami, notice anything here??

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[Yellow]

I like that!

[Keagan-Z06]

Thanks man.

[JPriami]

Don't know why some of my pictures keep posting sideways. But you get the idea! Tomorrow it should be finished after stain, seal, varnish!

JPriami, notice anything here??

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I sure do! Looking good.

[TheShaughnessy]

that repair came out great, colors blended great cause I can't see any sort of line.

[Keagan-Z06]

One last pic before I try and hit the waters tomorrow. My packs got delayed so the Zelos and Voracity date will be postponed another couple days.

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[JPriami]

Well I'm having a heck of a time with these outdrives. The grease keeps getting sucked out as I drive. First it was leaking bad where the outdrives meet the transom. I silicone that area. Now I see its also getting sucked out where the adjustable part of the drive goes into the fixed area. I've only driven the boat on the lake 3 times now. It's causing excess wear on my flex cables also.

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[Keagan-Z06]

Have you adjusted strut by any chance?

[Keagan-Z06]

How do you guys use 3 straps when packs are all the way forward? Or is it just two?

[JPriami]

It did this out of the box on the first run. I adjusted the struts maybe 0.5mm the 2nd run & it did it. No adjustments for the 3rd run and it did it.

I just removed both of them for inspection. It appears to be leaking from where the piviot ball screws into the long shank of the outdrive. It was really loose at that connection. That's where the bulk of the grease was & those threads were covered in it. Im guessing water passing by it at a fast rate creates a vaccum. Then the grease gets pulled out. I'll clean the grease and use a little locktite on reassembly.

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[arrover]

My flexes are always almost greaseless after I run. Even if it's only for a packs worth. I also get grease on the rear of the boat and I have found it in the tunnel up near the front of the exterior of the boat. It's strange. One of my drives is slightly lower than the bottom of the boat. If you put a straight edge on the rear pad, the strut body where it mounts to the hull will hold the straight edge off of the hull. JP, let me know how things work out for you.

[JPriami]

Arrover, will do. I put a little locktite on those threads & light grease on the piviot balls. Also put a thin bit of silicone between the strut & transom as I bolted them back on. If they leak now I'll be surprised.

As well one of my stingers are just a hair below the sponson. :sad:

[gman350]

I've been going over my Zelos, tightening bolts, waterproofing rx, etc.

One of the motors had no loctite on any of the endbell screws, and most of them were 1/2-1 turn loose. The other motor was fine and had loctite on all screws.

All of the strut and rudder to transom bolts were loose.

I sure do like the removable electronics tray.

Removing the motors was kind of a pain, was thinking about cutting down an allen wrench to fit, found that Kintec racing has one on their front page that looks like it will make the job a lot easier.

I scribed lines where the mounts were as a baseline, then when reinstalling I slipped the flexshafts in and out and moved the motor until the flex didn't deflect on the collet.

I didn't take apart the struts, but I think I will after reading the above posts.

[gman350]

Is there anything I can put on the ends of the rudder cables ( at the servo end ) to keep them from fraying?

Considering soldering the ends when I do my flexshafts, didn't know how well it would work?

[gman350]

Boy these flexshafts fit tight in the liners.

They had little to no grease on them, as tight as they fit I'll bet they won't hold much grease.

Maybe the liners will "wear" in to allow a tad more clearance?

[gman350]

So I noticed the boat sits flat on my workbench....which seemed a little odd due to the water cooling pickups.....

Is that what is referred to as "hook" on the bottom of the hull at the transom?

[Keagan-Z06]

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Z getting some Air!

[Rafael_Lopez]

So I noticed the boat sits flat on my workbench....which seemed a little odd due to the water cooling pickups.....

Is that what is referred to as "hook" on the bottom of the hull at the transom?

No, that's normal. The steps are designed that way; all of our cats are designed that way. It's parts of why they "drift" and handle so well. Once on plane, the boat should only ride on the back two steps.

[Rafael_Lopez]

It did this out of the box on the first run. I adjusted the struts maybe 0.5mm the 2nd run & it did it. No adjustments for the 3rd run and it did it.

I just removed both of them for inspection. It appears to be leaking from where the piviot ball screws into the long shank of the outdrive. It was really loose at that connection. That's where the bulk of the grease was & those threads were covered in it. Im guessing water passing by it at a fast rate creates a vaccum. Then the grease gets pulled out. I'll clean the grease and use a little locktite on reassembly.

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I'm glad you found that these drives come apart. From time to time they can vibrate loose a little. The grease coming out like that tells you they need service. I didn't see anything like your picture with all the grease during testing, but my boat was the first off the production line. It's likely they forgot to tighten them down all the way on yours.

For those servicing the drives, I wouldn't put loctite on them. Tightening them down too much will prevent them from being adjustable, or will at least make it a PITA to adjust. If loctite gets on the plastic pillow ball seat inside the drives it can damage them. loctite is know to break down composites. If you are concerned about them coming lose, use silicone on the threads when you put them together.


Arrower, if one of your drives sits lower than the other you may have a defective boat. This may be why your boat bounces the way you have described. Share some pictures with me if you don't mind. We may be able to send you a replacement hull if it's as bad as you describe. There is no adjustment for you to loosen and push the drive up. It also concerns me because the drive and the stuffing tube have to be aligned or there will be an excess of friction on the flex shaft. You can PM me the pictures or post them here, up to you.

[Keagan-Z06]

http://youtu.be/RjRU6CiPxyA