submerged to surface drive conversion

[cmoo]

Currently have an outdated submerged drive system on a Prather 46 deep vee and I am planning on mounting a surface drive. I understand from reading previous articles that a "wet well" is crucial. Don't exactly know how to go about doing this. I've narrowed down different systems and have decided to go with the stinger 1/4" drive gas strut. Currently have a octura x457 2 blade with a castle 2028. And deciding on an esc but I am leaning toward the swordfish 200a 8s esc as I burnt out my previous castle xl2. Plan to run 8s2p, not racing the boat just strictly for sport. Any input would be great thanks. :thumbup:138434138435

[cmoo]

So here's the update. I made the obvious decision that I didn't want a bunch of extra holes in my transom and I for sure didn't want to re use the home made hard ware from who knows when. Went too my local hardware store and picked up some resin and fiberglass to fill the holes and reinforce the transome. I also plugged the hole underneath where the stuffing tube used to come out from. Aside from paint correction it all turned out quite nicely.
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[cmoo]

I also got around to tearing out all the internals and got to sanding. The owner before me decided it would be a good idea to wrap the stringers with fibre glass while all the components were still in. As you can imagine it was very shotty craftsmanship and on top of that covered all the hardware. The stringers are in terrible shape and I am leaning toward pulling them out then sanding the hull smooth and reinforcing with Carbon fibre. Throughout the hull. Picture of it currently. 138478

[ray schrauwen]

Nice job so far. Although its a pain to clean out shotty work, in the end you will feel great satisfaction with your overhaul.

[cmoo]

Thanks ray, do you know if there are any previous threads on constructing a wet well. I have the basic concept down but not sure how to go about making it. My main concern is if there needs to be supports for the flex cable inside the wet well or if the cable runs from strut to stuff tube and passes through the wet well without contact.

[Fluid]

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?49967-quick-and-easy-flooded-stuffing-tube&highlight=Tube

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?22860-DF-Sniper-45-T-Mono-Build-Target-100mph

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?45106-Flooded-tube-question&highlight=Tube

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[cmoo]

thanks fluid, now i have an idea of exactly what i want, now to start pulling the stringers and sanding down the hull for carbon cloth lining:thumbup:

[cmoo]

Quick update. Pulled the stringers today only to discover that the previous owner did not take any measures in means of securing down the stringers:confused1: the dude just set them in there and laid the fiberglass over them as mentioned in a previous post. any way now that that's over I sanded the hull getting rid of dripped epoxy bumps etc I was able to drop in the motor to start sketching out my drive system in my head. Here's some pics138491138492138493138494

[cmoo]

Quick question ona hull this size if anyone woudnt mind chiming in, if a put a carbon fivbre inlay in this hull, do i still need to reinstall stringers, thanks

[rayzerdesigns]

you could do a layer of carbon on bottom that should help..you just dont want flex on ride pad area..

[cmoo]

you could do a layer of carbon on bottom that should help..you just dont want flex on ride pad area..

cool, thanks for the reply, i wanted a cleaner look because i plan on leaving my hatch clear and dont want to reinstall stringers but will if its crucial to the performance of the boat

[cmoo]

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I know it's been a while but here's an update. I got all the parts to complete the boat, finally. Everything is going together smoothly. I went with the swordfish 240 and I'm still running my octura x457. Hoping to have it finished up by this week. Also included is my servo mount I tigged up and jb welded in, should come out pretty nice��������143320

[cmoo]

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Transom all buttoned up. Still need to silicon. I used the turn fin holes location from the previous setup. Are they fine at the angle they're at or do they need to be vertical

[Beaux]

Man , there was some fonk on the bottom of that baby. Looks much better, nice welding job , slick..

[FlogginHarvey]

I found it!;) nice work. I converted an old Dumas Scarab KV from subsurface to surface drive a few years ago (gas but all fiberglass work is same idea) and it came out pretty well. Looks like you are darn near there!!! Try to get some video when you run her?

[Fluid]

...I used the turn fin holes location from the previous setup. Are they fine at the angle they're at or do they need to be verticalThe fins should be at right angles to the hull bottom surfaces. In their current orientations they will likely not work very well.



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[cmoo]

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A couple of pics from last week. Only have to silicon all the hardware, mount the aluminum battery trays and do all the wiring. And some final touches. The last 20% of the build always takes the longest.

[Beaux]

Looks good, I like the color.

[FlogginHarvey]

How did it go?

[cmoo]

How did it go?


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-xn6sZmtiEU

Video Quality isn't that great. Almost obliterated it into the wall of the pond haha. Would have been a bad day. But it planed out nicely after some adjustment and it definitely has some speed probably too much for me, Definitely a big boat haha

[FlogginHarvey]

That thing ran sweet! Noce work and thanks for posting the video!!! Turning off power is not ideal - as mentioned by the voice on the video. Too funny...thank goodness it was a close call and not a thunk.

I saw a post about the turn fins above. After seeing your quick video I might make the same suggestion on the placement/angle, not to be pushy or rude. Reference once of my 48" gas monos as a quick example. Hull is a little different dead rise and strake layout but the overall principle is the same.

You more or less want the turn fins perpendicular to the hull running surface so the lower one would be pointed (more or less) vertically straight down in a hard corner...the first pic below is probably best example. Both boats are SpeedMaster hardware very similar to what you have.

Dumas Scarab 38KV Gas:

http://i1032.photobucket.com/albums/a409/pricetrey/Dumas%20Scarab%2038KV%20KAAMA/AD6A4FB5-E14E-4B2C-8532-951F0BFD9659.jpg (http://s1032.photobucket.com/user/pricetrey/media/Dumas%20Scarab%2038KV%20KAAMA/AD6A4FB5-E14E-4B2C-8532-951F0BFD9659.jpg.html)

And a Rico Offshore Classic:

http://i1032.photobucket.com/albums/a409/pricetrey/RICO%20Offshore%20Classic/D715D919-3CB3-4569-8BE4-5A69EBDA48AB-25660-000027635BBED429_zps71037141.jpg (http://s1032.photobucket.com/user/pricetrey/media/RICO%20Offshore%20Classic/D715D919-3CB3-4569-8BE4-5A69EBDA48AB-25660-000027635BBED429_zps71037141.jpg.html)

[cmoo]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p54N2vufqwo

another running video. any tuning suggestions based upon the video are welcome.

and to flogginharvey, thanks for the tip, i have them verticle currently, so if the boats on the stand, theyre perpendicular to the ground.

[cmoo]

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Pic of all the internals for anyone that was wondering.

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And I pic of them
Before I did any research and knew nothing what so ever about FE boats

[cmoo]

Looks good, I like the color.

thanks Beaux!! probably why i bought it in the first place haha

[Beaux]

Wow that boat was movin, nice rooster.

[cmoo]

Voice in the video was my over dramatic little brother not me haha

[cmoo]

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Couple of pics after her first run

[cmoo]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Anm10qZotW8

Another running video, after about 5 minutes of running at mostly full throttle the temps are around 95-98 Fahrenheit. Moved the packs back a couple inches and it's running right where I'd like it. A little chop in the turns but I think that has to do with my turn fun placement.
Currently running the octura x457 but id like to prop up if possible, any prop recommendation or how much bigger I can go while still staying in a safe limit of my capacity? Thanks.