View Full Version : 3 Bladed prop request....

10-07-2008, 04:00 PM
Hi, i've been trying to find a 3 bladed 38mm prop for my hydro, been told it with stop the torque roll which it does. Any idea where's the best place to get one...or 3? They'll have to be carbon filled tho....I'min UK, but doesn't really matter where they are from. Any info will help!:thumbup1:


10-07-2008, 04:44 PM
Forgot to put in that it's for a 3/16 shaft.....

10-07-2008, 09:50 PM
I do not believe anyone makes a 38mm 3 blade prop. You either would have to buy a 37mm 3 blade or cut down a 40mm prop.

10-08-2008, 03:22 AM
I would get in touch with Egneg on this forum. He might be able to help you out with your prop situation.

10-08-2008, 07:49 AM
Egneg can turn down a 3 bladed 40 to a 38 for ya, I'm sure.

10-09-2008, 03:46 AM
Ok Guys, thanks for the help....guess i'll have to try a 37mm first...think it'd be cheaper!!! Anyone know where's the best place to get one?

10-09-2008, 04:09 AM
What about the prop shop in the UK he has a lot of different props. I don't think they will be carbon though.


Ub Hauled
10-09-2008, 05:54 AM
Prop shop is great, they sometimes take a long while to deliver.... it'll depend if they have your prop in stock.

10-09-2008, 06:04 AM
Just a sugestion but I think OSE sells an octura 3 blade 37mm. As this is Steves forum and he has the best service of anyone out there. If he does not then Chuck will do you one. Or better yet get a raw prop and work her yourself. Steve has the raw props in stock most of the time.

10-09-2008, 06:06 AM
As a matter of fact they are in stock as I type this!

10-09-2008, 05:00 PM
From what I can find all the Graupner 3 blade CF props are made for 4m threaded shafts.

10-09-2008, 05:18 PM
Why do they have to be carbon filled?

10-10-2008, 03:43 AM
Gotta be carbon filled as the other guys at the club don't really like metal props, they can't drive and it'll tear there boat to bits.....they are a bit slower (lot) than me and 2 others.....only 3 of us run brushless, others use 700BB's.

Oh Edneg....your right! I can only find them for 4mm threaded too.........(Must be hidden!!!)

10-10-2008, 06:13 AM
Well I have the opinion and I may be wrong but I think that you do what you have to to get each boat running as best you can whether you run brushless or not a metal prop properly sharpened and balanced is a must, you can cup and back cut and plenty of other tricks to get it just how you want. You never know it might just start a trend....

ron Olson
10-12-2008, 01:34 AM
It's their problem if they can't drive. Andy Brown at www.cmdracing.com has this nice 3872BSL/3 that is right up your alley. It's made for hydro's and 'riggers. It's CNC machined aluminum and weighs not more than a couple of grams. It's also balanced and sharpened so you can just bolt it on and has the 3/16" bore.
Once your boating buds see one, they'll all want one!

10-12-2008, 06:25 PM
Ron....i totally agree it's there fault they can't drive...but i gotta foot the bill when i break a prop after mashing there hull! Hence going for a carbon as they are cheaper! Not too fussed at this moment in time about the speed as it's usually only between me and 2 others out of the 8-10 that race.....others are sooooo much slower!

Thanks though, I'll mail that guy though and find out a price......maybe buy in bulk!!!

ron Olson
10-12-2008, 11:43 PM
I paid $32.00 shipped here in the US but the $30.00 may have been an introductory price. Most places will charge you that for just a sharpening and balancing job plus the price of the prop so you can see how good of a deal it is.
I bought it originally to try on my .12 mono but with it being a hydro prop it didn't work out so hot so it's going on my Sport 12 hydro that I'm building using a Delta Force Vortex. It was made more for electric power and small-block nitro hydro's so you might want to try just one before going gung-ho on getting a pile of them.
To break down Andy's numbering system is just about like an Octura. 38mm diameter, 72mm pitch, the "B" for his class of lift (A, B, and C), the "S" I don't remember what that's for and the "L" for left rotation and of course the "/3" for a 3-blade.