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View Full Version : Darin's Voracity "Race-Prep" - Taking it "One-Step-Beyond"



Darin Jordan
08-31-2015, 07:34 AM
Well... It looks like you guys have the "bolt-in" performance tinkering part of the Voracity covered here.

Rafael and Pro Boat sent me back my Test boat, which had a pre-production 3D-Printed tray assembly in it that was for proof-of-concept, not longevity, and it needed to be replaced if things were going to stay in place. Rafael sent along a brand new factory motor tray, so....

I've started chiseling out the original tray. Naturally, I can't leave things well-enough-alone, so I've decided to do a full "Race-Prep" on this hull. It's not "out of the box" factory anyhow, so why not! Let's see what this thing can REALLY do. :w00t:

DISCLAIMER: In NO WAY am I condoning, suggesting, or otherwise recommending that ANY of you try this, or that any of you might have more fun, have a better boat, or will gain any significant performance of ANY KIND, if you were to go down this path. You will VOID your warrantee, as well as cause yourselves ALL kinds of extra work, that may, or may not, help performance. I'm doing this because I already have to replace the tray, and I figured, "what the heck". That's it. PLEASE DON'T ATTEMPT this at home unless you are willing to take ALL the risks with your investment that I'm about to take. Plus, I doubt that any of you would have access to a new, factory motor tray. This is something Rafael arranged for me from the vender. I don't think it's something that's available as a replacement part.

OK, that out of the way, time to get started...

Not much to see here. Pliers and a chisel and a lot of time and I have most of the 3D Printed structure out. Need to go over it with a sanding disc to carefully grind away the remnants and get the hull smooth again. Delicate operation to keep from going down into the hull structure. And, want to keep from warping the glass.

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I think that I'm going to do all of this and leave the battery trays in place at this point in order to keep from disturbing the hull bottom at all. They add rigidity and I'll try to work around them.

I'm likely going to be adding a layer of Carbon Fiber inside this hull, and I'll work that up in between the existing battery trays, which I think will help to hold them in place for the long-term.

Banzee
08-31-2015, 11:56 AM
Do you think that the batteries trays can be closer each other ? Do it will change something like chine walk at very high speed or torque roll ?

Darin Jordan
08-31-2015, 04:52 PM
Do you think that the batteries trays can be closer each other ? Do it will change something like chine walk at very high speed or torque roll ?

Possibly, but you can only put them so close before they started butting cells together.

I'm actually an advocate for having a single pack right down the middle. If I feel so inclined, I may modify these to add that ability to use a single 6S pack.

Banzee
08-31-2015, 05:52 PM
Possibly, but you can only put them so close before they started butting cells together.

I'm actually an advocate for having a single pack right down the middle. If I feel so inclined, I may modify these to add that ability to use a single 6S pack.

I like the idea of the single pack ! For sure , you need to keep some space between the packs and putting something soft to prevent damage !

Darin Jordan
08-31-2015, 11:58 PM
I'm in this for the full meal deal now!

Chissiled and sanded out the remainder of the structure and glue, managing not to go through the hull.

Removed the hardware and the stuffing tube. I annealed the brass to allow for easier strut adjustment. More,on that later.

Decided that I'd upgrade to a flooded stuffing tube arrangement, so drilled up the transom.

Decided to run with the battery trays in place. Easier to manage two 3S packs, and also allows for a pair of 4S packs, should I feel so inclined.

Next step will be a layer of carbon. More to come.

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Darin Jordan
09-01-2015, 12:00 AM
I should probably make note...

IF this was a factory, out of the box boat, I would NOT be going to these lengths. I'd leave it as stock as possible and race it.

But, since this was a test sample and needed the tray replaced anyhow, well... here we go!

Rafael_Lopez
09-01-2015, 01:08 PM
Admit it, even if it were a production boat, you wouldn't leave it alone. It's who we are.:roflol:

kfxguy
09-01-2015, 03:53 PM
Can't wait to see it run!

Vaportrails311
09-21-2015, 08:17 PM
Motor upgrade esc ? Can't stop now! Lol

Darin Jordan
01-08-2016, 12:53 PM
I suppose I should actually pull this off the shelf and get back on it one of these days...

angrycat
01-21-2016, 12:31 PM
i think you should lol im in the process of modifying an old blackjack hull and this is giving me some incentive to finish the build now that i really dont feel like laying the rest of the carbon/kevlar..... (still peeling epoxy off my arms and hands lol)

Darin Jordan
03-13-2016, 09:38 PM
Got back to work on this, finally.

Reinforced the area where I removed the 3D printed mount with, what else; carbon fiber.

While that was still wet, I mixed some epoxy, milled fiber, and cavasil and installed the mount. Drilled some homes along the mount just to help with adhesion. Used some wood blocks to try to keep the bottom flat while it all set up.

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Keagan-Z06
03-15-2016, 09:25 PM
That looks quite nice. Why did you drill a bigger hole? Going with a larger motor and tube?

Mxkid261
03-21-2016, 12:08 PM
That looks quite nice. Why did you drill a bigger hole? Going with a larger motor and tube?

He is running a flooded stuffing tube on this one probably for more strut adjustment

Tamelesstgr
03-22-2016, 11:50 AM
I like the idea about wood blocks and the clamp while setting the mount. I need to devise a similar idea when I finally set my tray in place in my mono.

T.S.Davis
03-22-2016, 12:08 PM
Darin, ever try this?

I was thinking that if you 3M double side taped two pieces of aluminum angle to the bottom of the boat while you glue in mounts and rails that you would have a higher probability of coming out with a dead straight bottom. Then just use the fishing line trick to remove the angle. No hooks maybe in the surfaces. Less fiddling with the bottom later.

Just a thought. I've not tried it.

Old Vetter
04-28-2016, 11:23 AM
What happened? Where did Darin go?

Darin Jordan
04-28-2016, 12:17 PM
What happened? Where did Darin go?

I'm still here.. project was set aside momentarily because I bought a '92 4Runner for a 3rd vehicle (have a 16-year old son... :) ) and have been doing some restoration/updating to it to get it reliably drivable, and, well, "cooler"... :)

The Voracity project is now back on the workbench. Flooded Chamber stuffing tube is in the process of being installed. Shouldn't take to long from there. :)

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Tamelesstgr
04-28-2016, 12:43 PM
That 92' is pretty clean!

Darin Jordan
04-28-2016, 12:53 PM
That 92' is pretty clean!

Thanks... got the new windshield and window molding in last night, and getting tires for the new 17x9" wheels tonight! The kid is pretty stoked. :)

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Sorry, gang... I'll get this back on topic shortly. :)

Darin Jordan
05-02-2016, 10:30 AM
OK... I'm back on it...

Quick follow-up on the 4Runner though... Got the Wheels/Tires all taken care of. Unfortunately, the Big-O that did the work also decided to back the car out of the shop with the driver's door open, catching it on the lift and bending it back. SO, I'm without the 4Runner and it's hopefully getting repaired, CORRECTLY, this week. Wheels/Tires sure look nice though!

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Darin Jordan
05-02-2016, 10:34 AM
Back on topic...

Got a piece of Carbon Filament wound large diameter tubing from Brian Buaas. Cut it to length, then laminated some carbon fiber weave around and across the top of one-end to seal it up. Drilled a hole in it for the original stuffing tube to fit through and then epoxied the assembly up against the original mounting location. Tacked the tubing at the back to hold it all in place.

I'll now seal up the back at the transom and flood around the tubing at the back to seal it. The hole back there was drilled WAY to big, but I had anticipated getting a larger diameter piece of Carbon tube, so I'll use some epoxy filled with Milled Fiber and some Cavasil to seal it all back up.

Once that's cured, I'll cut and sand down the bit extending out the transom.

After this, the rest should just be a matter of bolting all the hardware back on, and applying some graphics. :)

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properchopper
05-02-2016, 02:43 PM
OK... I'm back on it...

Quick follow-up on the 4Runner though... Got the Wheels/Tires all taken care of. Unfortunately, the Big-O that did the work also decided to back the car out of the shop with the driver's door open, catching it on the lift and bending it back. SO, I'm without the 4Runner and it's hopefully getting repaired, CORRECTLY, this week. Wheels/Tires sure look nice though!

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I love those wheels. Would look great on my Exploder. Next trip down here park it in my driveway for a time. Won't hurt a bit................

Darin Jordan
05-02-2016, 02:53 PM
I love those wheels. Would look great on my Exploder. Next trip down here park it in my driveway for a time. Won't hurt a bit................

UMPH! :hide:

kfxguy
05-02-2016, 02:55 PM
Back on topic...

Got a piece of Carbon Filament wound large diameter tubing from Brian Buaas. Cut it to length, then laminated some carbon fiber weave around and across the top of one-end to seal it up. Drilled a hole in it for the original stuffing tube to fit through and then epoxied the assembly up against the original mounting location. Tacked the tubing at the back to hold it all in place.

I'll now seal up the back at the transom and flood around the tubing at the back to seal it. The hole back there was drilled WAY to big, but I had anticipated getting a larger diameter piece of Carbon tube, so I'll use some epoxy filled with Milled Fiber and some Cavasil to seal it all back up.

Once that's cured, I'll cut and sand down the bit extending out the transom.

After this, the rest should just be a matter of bolting all the hardware back on, and applying some graphics. :)

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If you can hold off till this evening I'll see what I have and sent you a piece of tube tomorrow. I think I have 18mm diameter.

Darin Jordan
05-02-2016, 02:59 PM
If you can hold off till this evening I'll see what I have and sent you a piece of tube tomorrow. I think I have 18mm diameter.

I appreciate that a lot, but I think this will be good. I have more than enough adjustment. As most of you already know, not a lot of adjustment necessary, but being able to move this a bit allows for a wider array of prop diameters.

No turning back now! :)

kfxguy
05-02-2016, 03:01 PM
I appreciate that a lot, but I think this will be good. I have more than enough adjustment. As most of you already know, not a lot of adjustment necessary, but being able to move this a bit allows for a wider array of prop diameters.

No turning back now! :)

No problem, was trying to help. :)

kfxguy
05-02-2016, 08:56 PM
I looked for you just in case. I have 4 feet of 16mm od. I have to go to the post office tomorrow. If you need it, I'll send it to you. Just pm me your address and the length you need.


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/FF25CE93-DA18-4BE8-9B57-F97F60D24265.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/FF25CE93-DA18-4BE8-9B57-F97F60D24265.jpg.html)

Darin Jordan
05-03-2016, 09:43 AM
I looked for you just in case. I have 4 feet of 16mm od. I have to go to the post office tomorrow. If you need it, I'll send it to you. Just pm me your address and the length you need.


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/FF25CE93-DA18-4BE8-9B57-F97F60D24265.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/FF25CE93-DA18-4BE8-9B57-F97F60D24265.jpg.html)

Nice stuff! Thanks again. Already have it all glued in place, so I'll just go with this. I really appreciate the offer, though. Thank You.

Where did you purchase this, by the way?

kfxguy
05-03-2016, 10:39 AM
Nice stuff! Thanks again. Already have it all glued in place, so I'll just go with this. I really appreciate the offer, though. Thank You.

Where did you purchase this, by the way?


eBay. It is very nice stuff. I've been getting a lot of my carbon from China off eBay and if you pick the right stuff it is quality stuff. (China and quality usually aren't used in the same sentence lol) I've sent some plate to Monojeff and he's been pretty impressed with it. I bought some USA made stuff a while back and it was coming apart on him when cutting it. We haven't had an issue with the China stuff. Sometimes it takes three weeks to get but I got two plates in yesterday I ordered just last week.

kfxguy
05-03-2016, 11:06 AM
Nice stuff! Thanks again. Already have it all glued in place, so I'll just go with this. I really appreciate the offer, though. Thank You.

Where did you purchase this, by the way?


eBay. It is very nice stuff. I've been getting a lot of my carbon from China off eBay and if you pick the right stuff it is quality stuff. (China and quality usually aren't used in the same sentence lol) I've sent some plate to Monojeff and he's been pretty impressed with it. I bought some USA made stuff a while back and it was coming apart on him when cutting it. We haven't had an issue with the China stuff. Sometimes it takes three weeks to get but I got two plates in yesterday I ordered just last week.

Darin Jordan
05-05-2016, 08:49 AM
I decided I wanted to have a bit more rudder chord, get a bit more prop clearance, and to run a slightly tapered rudder, so I cobbled together a break away rudder assembly for my Voracity "One Step Beyond" project.

Consist of an older rudder blade I had laying around, a Pro Boat IM31 rudder pivot, and a little machine work and drilling.

Also modified the bracket to add a third mounting screw for lateral stability, as well as cutting and drilling/tapping the back section to 1) move the rudder outboard, and 2) allow castor adjustment.

Turned out nicely.

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Darin Jordan
05-05-2016, 08:51 AM
A few more shots of the rudder and mounting...

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Darin Jordan
05-05-2016, 08:53 AM
Also finished epoxying in the flooded stuffing well. Should prove to be solid. Once the epoxy was set, I trimmed up the back... almost flush.

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Darin Jordan
05-05-2016, 08:57 AM
Next step will be to mount some upgraded Trim-Tabs, which I'm thinking of doing as a PAIR of tabs on each side:

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-83022

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And mount my preferred Turn-Fins:

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-1400

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kfxguy
05-05-2016, 09:00 AM
Nice work

Darin Jordan
05-06-2016, 12:48 AM
Tonight's Project : replace the stock 120A ESC with a "slightly " larger one that will give some headroom and allow me to run up to 8S.

Using the 160A Dynamite ESC from the Zelos 48 for this one.

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Pretty basic. Trim off the original mounting studs, which allow this bigger ESC to about sit flat, locate, drill, and tap two of the 160A's mounting holes, and lay down some velcro.

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Darin Jordan
05-06-2016, 12:51 AM
To keep the wiring neat and to allow me to directly use replacement motors without having to alter the leads, I fabled some wiring adapters. 6.5mm males on the ESC, 5.5mm females towards the motor.

Will heat shrink them once I fire this up and verify rotation. Then I'll shrink with matching colors.

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arrover
05-06-2016, 08:43 AM
This thing is really coming together!

Darin Jordan
05-09-2016, 09:35 AM
Was about ready to start mounting the rest of the hardware this weekend, when I went to move the hull off the workbench by grabbing it from the side, wrapping my fingers in around the lip on the side by the water pickup, when I heard a "cracking" sound.... Well... Turns out I stress/cracked the area where the deck meets the side.

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Wanted to avoid adding the extra weight, as the hull itself is plenty rigid and strong, but decided this area needed to get reinforced.... SOOOO.... Time for some carbon inlay work.

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I already had some 5.5oz Carbon Twill that I had adhered a 1.5oz veil cloth layer of glass to, so I cut a couple of pieces of that for the job.

Using my trusty Scotch 77 Spray Adhesive, I misted a light layer onto the carbon side, letting it tack up for 30-seconds or so.

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Then, I carefully began placing the layer into the hull, starting towards the middle and working it back up into the hull side:

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Darin Jordan
05-09-2016, 09:43 AM
I work the piece down with a plastic bondo blade to make sure it's set into the hull nicely:

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Once the part is in place, I mix up my epoxy and wet the piece out:

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After all the epoxy has been applied, you can squeeze it into the layer, as well as remove any excess, by using one of these rubber squeegees. They sell these at Fiberlay or other epoxy suppliers. I have several, and have cut some into smaller pieces to help me get into tight places.

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Once the parts were all wetted out and squeeged out, since it was a nice day, I set the hull out into the warm sun to set up. If I'm inside and/or it's cold outside, I'll actually use a ceramic heater and a large box to make an "oven" that I can get into the 120-150-degree range to cure the parts in. Really helps get the epoxy to cure harder. As you can see here, the part is completely wetted out, but it's NOT all glossy. NO excess epoxy to weight things down. Looks a lot cleaner this way too.

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And, YES, the carbon wraps all the way up the sides and comes back under the deck all the way to the deck opening. MUCH more rigid now. ;)

Mike Caruso
05-09-2016, 10:07 AM
Big thank you Darin

Darin Jordan
05-10-2016, 12:43 PM
Got more done... Almost ready to clean up and start adding Graphics!

Replaced the stock turn fins with my IM31 Fins (available here at OSE: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-1400 ).

Had to slot the mounting hole 0.250" forward to get them fitted right up against the hull using the stock brackets. Also, opened up the hole in the brackets to allow the use of 3mm mounting screws, as opposed to the 2.5mm that comes standard. A little bit better "hold" that way.

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Also fitted a set of SpeedMaster 1.5" x 1.5" trim-tabs. Was going to go with the fancier cast aluminum tabs, but honestly, these trusty old SpeedMaster designed fins offer more tuning options. Went with just a single set for now. The bolt pattern is identical, but you'll want to open up the holes in the stainless tabs to allow them to be slid up above flush with the bottom of the hull. I also opened up the holes in the hull just a size, which let the SpeedMaster supplied mounting bolts to fit.

OH, and you need to replace the adjusting bolt on the right tab with a shorter one, because the longer one hits to bottom of the rudder bracket.

Overall, pretty simple addition.

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Darin Jordan
05-10-2016, 12:45 PM
Used my Mill to open up the hole in the stock water outlet fitting to a full 1/8".

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Finally, mixed up two 30-oz pours of epoxy and milled fiber to reinforce the nose of the hull. Shouldn't be splitting open if it hits a buoy! :thumbup1:

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Tamelesstgr
05-10-2016, 01:46 PM
Help me understand the use of Epoxy over 2 part expanding foam? Is that just to keep the seams together? Is there much of a weight difference?

Darin Jordan
05-10-2016, 01:59 PM
Help me understand the use of Epoxy over 2 part expanding foam? Is that just to keep the seams together? Is there much of a weight difference?

Expanding foam isn't an adhesive. It's for flotation, though it does add some rigidity.

At the end of the day, 2-Part foam will blow apart with the seam if you hit something. Epoxy will drive right through it. :)

Not concerned about weight, really... I'm going to have to add weight to the BACK of the boat, ultimately, so I can get it to balance with the battery config I'll ultimately be running, which will be 6S2P 8,000-10,000mAh. (a pair of 4000 or 5000mAh packs.)

Tamelesstgr
05-10-2016, 02:20 PM
So 60oz of Epoxy went into the nose, would you mind snapping a picture of that for my reference? I'm trying to understand if it's just one big epoxy "Brick" in there or is it more coating the seams with a void still in the nose? Will you be adding foam flotation?

Darin Jordan
05-10-2016, 02:27 PM
So 60oz of Epoxy went into the nose, would you mind snapping a picture of that for my reference? I'm trying to understand if it's just one big epoxy "Brick" in there or is it more coating the seams with a void still in the nose? Will you be adding foam flotation?

Not going to be able to see anything regarding the epoxy. Look at it this way... the first 2" or so of the inside of the nose of the boat is now a solid epoxy block. The rest of the front of the boat is still open.

I will be adding pool-noodles for floatation. I try to avoid 2-Part foam if possible. Once it's there, it's there, and if you break the outer layer, it'll absorb water. It also can expand or contract with high-temps, actually drawing the deck or sides of the boat in. Want to avoid that.

Tamelesstgr
05-10-2016, 02:37 PM
Understood, thanks! :thumbup1:

kfxguy
05-10-2016, 03:59 PM
Used my Mill to open up the hole in the stock water outlet fitting to a full 1/8".

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Finally, mixed up two 30-oz pours of epoxy and milled fiber to reinforce the nose of the hull. Shouldn't be splitting open if it hits a buoy! :thumbup1:

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Most people don't realize how much insurance it is to add epoxy in the tips to keep the hull from splitting. To me it's a given on EVERY build I do.


Also this hull seems to be a little nose light anyway.

Tamelesstgr
05-10-2016, 04:09 PM
Do you also reinforce the length of the seam down the hull as well?

Darin Jordan
05-10-2016, 04:23 PM
Do you also reinforce the length of the seam down the hull as well?

On some hulls. In this one, that got done a little along the open area (the length of the hatch and to the transom) a couple of posts up.

Generally speaking, no.

T.S.Davis
05-10-2016, 05:04 PM
Darin, that's where Tom broke the one he modified for open offshore Atlanta style against the gas leviathans.

He had blueprinted the bottom. Sand fill, sand fill, the usual. More stringer etc. Ran 6s/15,000mah with a 1527/1y and a big fat prop. A LOT of battery weight for this hull. It ran fantastic but as he had not reinforced that seem at the hatch opening it flexed plenty enough to split er open. We actually for a second thought "hatch tape it up and go" for the last heat. haha Too much gear to risk losing though.

It's fixed now but good call on reinforcing a bit.

Darin Jordan
05-12-2016, 10:18 AM
I'm waiting for a new RX to arrive to complete setting up the power system, so I figured it was time to get this dolled up and ready to do some racing. Used a few of the standard Voracity decal package bits, enough to maintain the product identification. The rest is to thank all those who support my racing endeavors.

I painted the tip Safety Orange as kind of a throwback to Offshore Racing, and also because the tip of the boat got damaged during testing and I needed to repaint that part anyhow.

Just about ready to go!

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kfxguy
05-12-2016, 10:23 AM
I like the orange tip!

Darin Jordan
05-12-2016, 10:48 AM
A couple more shots. I know that Pro Boat really isn't in the "race boat" market, but DAMN!! Racing looks GOOD on this boat!

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shua
05-12-2016, 11:46 AM
Darin. Your Voracity looks AWESOME

T.S.Davis
05-12-2016, 03:14 PM
Tom had his out last night. Really runs nice with sane mah's on board. Looked better on 8k than 10k.

Darin Jordan
05-12-2016, 04:16 PM
Tom had his out last night. Really runs nice with sane mah's on board. Looked better on 8k than 10k.

Is he running stock power system??

A pair of 4000mAh 6S packs in parallel is workable. ;)

T.S.Davis
05-12-2016, 04:41 PM
4s2p, 1527/1y. Built a bare hull from scratch.

Darin Jordan
05-15-2016, 01:34 AM
Wrapped the Voracity up last night.

Let's see....

1) opened up the holes in the strut bracket and milled out the strut slot to accept larger M4 sized fasteners.

2) Installed strut, putting some heat shrink over the strut to stuffing tube connection. Helps keep water from climbing up the stuffing tube when sitting idle.

Strut is set dead neutral and about .250" up from the keel. We start there.

3) installed heat shrink on motor wire adapters. Turns out I nailed the wiring order first try. I actually won a 50/50 chance for a change.

4) Installed, bound, and setup RX.

5) Installed the battery straps.

Guess it's time to order a pair of 6S packs and get to testing.

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Old Vetter
05-15-2016, 06:22 PM
Darin, I would like to change the water outlets on my motor cooling sleeve to 90 degree fittings. Could you tell me what size threads to get? Thanks for all the info!

Tamelesstgr
05-16-2016, 12:36 PM
Darin,

Where your stuffing tube passes through your flood tube inside the hull, how did you decide to secure/seal that joint? Thanks for the heat shrink tip, I am using a proboat strut on my deep-vee and was wodering how to seal where the stuffing tube enters the strut as well. Didn't want to epoxy the stuffing tube into the strut. I think on my dad's Blackjack 29 the stuffing tube is just held in position by the strut.

Ken

lucdesorel
07-05-2016, 09:09 AM
how did you make to get the mount out of it in the first place??? what method and tool did you used?

Darin Jordan
07-05-2016, 09:46 AM
how did you make to get the mount out of it in the first place??? what method and tool did you used?


From the very first post...


Pliers and a chisel and a lot of time and I have most of the 3D Printed structure out. Need to go over it with a sanding disc to carefully grind away the remnants and get the hull smooth again. Delicate operation to keep from going down into the hull structure. And, want to keep from warping the glass.

Warning... you are HIGHLY at risk for damaging the underlying fiberglass if you attempt this. Mine did not come through undamaged, but it's all damage that I expected and was willing to fix. Be aware of that before you dive in here...

Banzee
07-11-2016, 11:18 AM
What is the Best way Darin to remove the battery tray without damaging the Hull ?

Darin Jordan
07-11-2016, 11:51 AM
What is the Best way Darin to remove the battery tray without damaging the Hull ?

I have no idea. They are glued in pretty heavily, and even being careful, as I was, I still damaged the hull (cracks in the exterior, etc...

I went into this knowing I'd have to do some repair/blueprinting on the bottom.

My advice on these would be to run them as is. They've been pretty nicely laid out. IF you need to get the CG back more, it's better to just add some weight to the back of the hull. You're most likely overpowered anyhow, so the extra weight will only help.

Banzee
07-11-2016, 04:17 PM
I have no idea. They are glued in pretty heavily, and even being careful, as I was, I still damaged the hull (cracks in the exterior, etc...

I went into this knowing I'd have to do some repair/blueprinting on the bottom.

My advice on these would be to run them as is. They've been pretty nicely laid out. IF you need to get the CG back more, it's better to just add some weight to the back of the hull. You're most likely overpowered anyhow, so the extra weight will only help.

My voracity is all stock électronic except the receiver , just asking if i want to put cf inlay cuz mine crack under !

Darin Jordan
07-11-2016, 04:26 PM
My voracity is all stock électronic except the receiver , just asking if i want to put cf inlay cuz mine crack under !


When I removed mine, I used a very sharp wood chisel and a hammer to get the majority of it out. Then I used a 2" sanding disk on a high-speed drill to work it all down. Lot's of mess/dust, and it really is a delicate process to get it down to bare glass without breaking through or cracking the outer paint coat.

Clearly it can be done, however. I'm just not sure that you can actually buy just the inner insert (haven't looked)...

Banzee
07-11-2016, 05:32 PM
I don't if you can see , but all the bottom of the hull got crack in the gelcoat , i just want to try to reinforce her to stop that !! Sorry , if you feel i'm off topic , just tell i will remove the post ! I'm agree that is a very delicate process to execute ,but you give me some tips ! Thank's ! I will take a look at !!


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lucdesorel
07-14-2016, 11:55 AM
hi! i can see that you are using 2 pack of 3s lipo, is it better to put 2 pack of lipo 3s like you do or 2 pack of 6s? and why?

Darin Jordan
07-14-2016, 01:38 PM
hi! i can see that you are using 2 pack of 3s lipo, is it better to put 2 pack of lipo 3s like you do or 2 pack of 6s? and why?

Funny you should ask...

The boat is designed to run a pair of 3S packs in SERIES, making for 6S total at whatever mAh packs you are using.

I just placed an order for a pair of 4000mAh 6S packs, which I'll run in parallel. We'll see if I can get the boat to balance properly with those. Even with the 3S packs, I think the cells have to be all the way back, so more weight might not help. If I have to, I'll add lead to the rear of the boat to get the balance point aft enough.

lucdesorel
07-14-2016, 09:17 PM
Funny you should ask...

The boat is designed to run a pair of 3S packs in SERIES, making for 6S total at whatever mAh packs you are using.

I just placed an order for a pair of 4000mAh 6S packs, which I'll run in parallel. We'll see if I can get the boat to balance properly with those. Even with the 3S packs, I think the cells have to be all the way back, so more weight might not help. If I have to, I'll add lead to the rear of the boat to get the balance point aft enough.

well its not about weight but more about energy, volt and amp.... my friend run in with 2 packs of 6s and it run great... just wanted to know if it was better one way or the other... more or less heat...etc... you should become facebook friend with us... you could see our video of our voracity and zelos too..

Darin Jordan
08-25-2016, 12:09 PM
Hey gang... anyone who might have followed this thread... Found out 2 things from racing it at the 2016 NAMBA FE Nationals.

1) Dynamite 160A ESC has a 180A "Safe Mode" limit. When you hit 180A, it engages "safe-mode", and you are now stuck in "limp-home" mode. Will get you back to the dock, but not at any kind of speed. Only way to reset is to remove power and rearm. Cost me several laps off Offshore, as I'm pretty sure that the motor could have handled the additional Amps. Not sure if this can be disabled. That said, the ESC is ROCK solid and performed great, so this IS a nice fail-safe to have for sport boaters who may not have the tools to tune to the levels racers do.

2) NEEDS BIGGER TURN FINS! At racing speeds, if you want to keep the boat cornering at high-speed, you need much bigger turn fins. The ones I added in this thread are NOT adequate. I need to make some new ones, but in the meantime, I dug these out of my spares box and did a makeshift fix, which allowed me to run WOT through the entire Offshore course. Had I done this earlier, I think I would have placed much better in the class, and might have even won it.

145701 145702

Finally, I ran the boat on a pair of 4000mAh 6S packs in parallel. The extra weight helped a lot. Batteries were placed about 1" forward in the battery trays, and the balance seemed about perfect.

Just wanted to provide a little feedback. Boat definitely handles race conditions great, once setup as described!

Banzee
08-25-2016, 05:48 PM
Hey gang... anyone who might have followed this thread... Found out 2 things from racing it at the 2016 NAMBA FE Nationals.

1) Dynamite 160A ESC has a 180A "Safe Mode" limit. When you hit 180A, it engages "safe-mode", and you are now stuck in "limp-home" mode. Will get you back to the dock, but not at any kind of speed. Only way to reset is to remove power and rearm. Cost me several laps off Offshore, as I'm pretty sure that the motor could have handled the additional Amps. Not sure if this can be disabled. That said, the ESC is ROCK solid and performed great, so this IS a nice fail-safe to have for sport boaters who may not have the tools to tune to the levels racers do.

2) NEEDS BIGGER TURN FINS! At racing speeds, if you want to keep the boat cornering at high-speed, you need much bigger turn fins. The ones I added in this thread are NOT adequate. I need to make some new ones, but in the meantime, I dug these out of my spares box and did a makeshift fix, which allowed me to run WOT through the entire Offshore course. Had I done this earlier, I think I would have placed much better in the class, and might have even won it.

145701 145702

Finally, I ran the boat on a pair of 4000mAh 6S packs in parallel. The extra weight helped a lot. Batteries were placed about 1" forward in the battery trays, and the balance seemed about perfect.

Just wanted to provide a little feedback. Boat definitely handles race conditions great, once setup as described!

Did you notice any difference with the 6s in parallel compare to the 3s in serie for the power and punch ?

properchopper
08-25-2016, 06:29 PM
Hey gang... anyone who might have followed this thread... Found out 2 things from racing it at the 2016 NAMBA FE Nationals.

1) Dynamite 160A ESC has a 180A "Safe Mode" limit. When you hit 180A, it engages "safe-mode", and you are now stuck in "limp-home" mode. Will get you back to the dock, but not at any kind of speed. Only way to reset is to remove power and rearm. Cost me several laps off Offshore, as I'm pretty sure that the motor could have handled the additional Amps. Not sure if this can be disabled. That said, the ESC is ROCK solid and performed great, so this IS a nice fail-safe to have for sport boaters who may not have the tools to tune to the levels racers do.

2) NEEDS BIGGER TURN FINS! At racing speeds, if you want to keep the boat cornering at high-speed, you need much bigger turn fins. The ones I added in this thread are NOT adequate. I need to make some new ones, but in the meantime, I dug these out of my spares box and did a makeshift fix, which allowed me to run WOT through the entire Offshore course. Had I done this earlier, I think I would have placed much better in the class, and might have even won it.

145701 145702

Finally, I ran the boat on a pair of 4000mAh 6S packs in parallel. The extra weight helped a lot. Batteries were placed about 1" forward in the battery trays, and the balance seemed about perfect.

Just wanted to provide a little feedback. Boat definitely handles race conditions great, once setup as described!

I tend to agree...........:wink:

145719

LuckY07
09-09-2016, 11:14 AM
Hey gang... anyone who might have followed this thread... Found out 2 things from racing it at the 2016 NAMBA FE Nationals.

1) Dynamite 160A ESC has a 180A "Safe Mode" limit. When you hit 180A, it engages "safe-mode", and you are now stuck in "limp-home" mode. Will get you back to the dock, but not at any kind of speed. Only way to reset is to remove power and rearm. Cost me several laps off Offshore, as I'm pretty sure that the motor could have handled the additional Amps. Not sure if this can be disabled. That said, the ESC is ROCK solid and performed great, so this IS a nice fail-safe to have for sport boaters who may not have the tools to tune to the levels racers do.

2) NEEDS BIGGER TURN FINS! At racing speeds, if you want to keep the boat cornering at high-speed, you need much bigger turn fins. The ones I added in this thread are NOT adequate. I need to make some new ones, but in the meantime, I dug these out of my spares box and did a makeshift fix, which allowed me to run WOT through the entire Offshore course. Had I done this earlier, I think I would have placed much better in the class, and might have even won it.

145701 145702

Finally, I ran the boat on a pair of 4000mAh 6S packs in parallel. The extra weight helped a lot. Batteries were placed about 1" forward in the battery trays, and the balance seemed about perfect.

Just wanted to provide a little feedback. Boat definitely handles race conditions great, once setup as described!

Great info Darin!

I was checking out a build online (45" Thurgarcraft) and came across these turn fins from Australia.

I wonder if these would be a good upgrade on this boat.. They are 90mm x 43mm.

146111

http://shop.rcboatbitz.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=283#prettyPhoto