Twin powered carbon Rivercat build

[kfxguy]

I've been putting off building a twin. Why? I dunno. I guess I get bored quick and it it takes too long I'll lose interest. Maybe I'm just in denial? I dunno, but I can't back out now. I've been collecting stuff since my other Rivercat sank to build this. I also have another single I'm building but the motor is being custom made so that's gonna take a while. I've already collected everything I need for this one so I guess I might as well start before I back out again haha. Anyway, here's the plan:

Castle 1415 2400kv motors
Seaking 120's with castle cap banks
Lhs waterproof servo
Ose .187 flexes
Custom built ball bearing drives.
32" carbon hull
Octura stainless collets
Center mount rudder
Carbon motor mounts. These are neat because you put screws in the motor, slide in the big holes, then twist the motor a tad and tighten
Ose cooling jackets
Cnc 442 props to start then abc 1615-17-45 counter rotating beasts after
3s or 4s pack per motor
Dual cooling

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/FC5418E0-A87A-4C64-9E3F-253B9C372819.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/FC5418E0-A87A-4C64-9E3F-253B9C372819.jpg.html)

[kfxguy]

I just got through making the drives. I'm using carbon tubes. One size the 5 ball bearings go into. Then there's a tube epoxied into the larger tube that the bearing back up to and the 1/4" brass slides in. After much research and talking to Rocstar and Keith, I've decided on fixed drives. They will be fixed level. I'll have to make any adjustments with Cg and prop choice/mods.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/F6E1D4E0-C2AF-4949-9C2D-ADC1ED78EB89.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/F6E1D4E0-C2AF-4949-9C2D-ADC1ED78EB89.jpg.html)

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/770E5D5B-A9E5-4ECA-B3A0-6069DC13E492.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/770E5D5B-A9E5-4ECA-B3A0-6069DC13E492.jpg.html)

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/55766F0E-82D8-4D4A-8A83-301C71A814FC.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/55766F0E-82D8-4D4A-8A83-301C71A814FC.jpg.html)

[kfxguy]

It's sitting in a bucket of water right now. Poured 20 grams of epoxy and chopped Carbon in each tip and the tunnel. The water helps to keep the heat down in the tips while the epoxy cures



http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/5DF4D3A3-21EC-43DB-84B9-A064E46F99A5.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/5DF4D3A3-21EC-43DB-84B9-A064E46F99A5.jpg.html)

[dmitry100]

You sure love those rivercats, man!

What kind of inlay are you going to be doing for it... CF? Wouldn't mind to see how you lay that stuff down on that thing if you are.

[shua]

Very nice! subscribed!

[kfxguy]

You sure love those rivercats, man!

What kind of inlay are you going to be doing for it... CF? Wouldn't mind to see how you lay that stuff down on that thing if you are.

Yea I guess so, I had a couple more of these hulls so why not? Lol. I'll be doing a regular weave carbon inlay in it. What did you want me to show?

[Apophis]

Uh oh, you know what they say, once you have twins you never....

Oh wait that's something else :lol:

Travis building a twin, something must of froze over lol!

Looking forward to the build, curious to see your drives.

[kfxguy]

Uh oh, you know what they say, once you have twins you never....

Oh wait that's something else :lol:

Travis building a twin, something must of froze over lol!

Looking forward to the build, curious to see your drives.



Lol. See those two carbon tubes with the bearings? That's the drives, not much to them. They will be braced at the overhang of the transom. I may end up switching motors but these will do for now. I figure it should do 70ish on 4s per motor. Heck, my little mono is doing almost 62 on 4s with one motor so I'm sure it's doable.

[dasboata]

try 2 part foam Travis I have been using it for 30 years in model boat builds it adds strength and flotation, I also use it around the hull to deck joint to straighten it I do use Aeromarine brand but pretty much all the same, just don't use great stuff home depot stuff,,,,,,,,,,,,, LOL http://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-Part-Liquid-Urethane-Expanding-Foam-2-LB-Density-4-LB-Kit-/111701333600?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1a01eb1660

[kfxguy]

try 2 part foam Travis I have been using it for 30 years in model boat builds it adds strength and flotation, I also use it around the hull to deck joint to straighten it I do use Aeromarine brand but pretty much all the same, just don't use great stuff home depot stuff,,,,,,,,,,,,, LOL http://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-Part-Liquid-Urethane-Expanding-Foam-2-LB-Density-4-LB-Kit-/111701333600?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1a01eb1660

That's all I use. I've been using us composites 2lb foam but I had a "foam day" Saturday and ran out so I ordered some from elite motoring on eBay. I had to do 4 boats Saturday so I used up a lot. I did an experiment yesterday.....in one of my boats you can see the foam and the tan color looks bad....so I added some black epoxy dye to it....turned it carbon grey. Worked perfect so I may be doing this for now on....

[dmitry100]

dasbota: Whats so bad about the Great Stuff foam to fill the void in the tips? ;) Is it too heavy of a foam?

[kfxguy]

dasbota: Whats so bad about the Great Stuff foam to fill the void in the tips? ;) Is it too heavy of a foam?


The way it expands is from oxygen getting to it...so what happens is the area exposed expands first, hardens and then the inner part slowly hardens. It takes the path of least resistance, usually busting open the hull. And I speak from experience, I had an extra hull and tried it. Yea, never do that again. The two part works great because it cures from a chemical reaction.

[dasboata]

dasbota: Whats so bad about the Great Stuff foam to fill the void in the tips? ;) Is it too heavy of a foam?

Plus the pour in makes for a very nice finish,,, the great stuff will expand more when you bring the boat in the sun !

[dmitry100]

dasboata: Do you know if they sell any of that Composite foam in smaller amounts? like 2LB worth? or is the 2 part foam from Kintecracing for $10 bucks just as good?

Product description of the one from Kintec:
"Expandable Marine Foam: This expandable 2 part polyurethane water proof flotation boat foam is low density and closed cell. It weighs 2 pounds per cubic foot. Each kit contains 3oz of each part A and B. $10.00 per kit."

[kfxguy]

Got a little done tonight. Didn't get the inlay done but got the carbon cut out. Then I laid several pieces in the transom area. Hard to get in there so I had to do it in pieces. I also made a thick aluminum plate that reinforces the rudder mount area and I can drill and tap right into it. If you e ever had to get to the nuts in one of these hulls, you know why it's easier this way. I flooded the transom area with epoxy and chopped carbon fiber too. Im going to put epoxy and chopped carbon in the bottom of the sponsons where it recesses. Nothing special but the little plate I made.

Got a little done tonight. Didn't get the inlay done but got the carbon cut out. Then I laid several pieces in the transom area. Hard to get in there so I had to do it in pieces. I also made a thick aluminum plate that reinforces the rudder mount area and I can drill and tap right into it. If you e ever had to get to the nuts in one of these hulls, you know why it's easier this way. I flooded the transom area with epoxy and chopped carbon fiber too. Im going to put epoxy and chopped carbon in the bottom of the sponsons where it recesses. Nothing special but the little plate I made.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/6419C99B-3A64-4B97-99B0-29C5C3950593.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/6419C99B-3A64-4B97-99B0-29C5C3950593.jpg.html)

[Fella1340]

I can't believe what I'm reading, twins! Look forward to seeing how the drives work out.

[dmitry100]

Is weight a concern when filling those tips with epoxy/carbon? I'm thinking to fill the tips with epoxy/micro balloons/fiberglass millings and redo the foam on the front of my hull... as I have great stuff foam in there right now lol. Dasboata kind of changed my mind about using it. Thought it'd work just as well and could absorb impacts, etc.... guess not.

I just wouldn't know how much epoxy I should be using in the tips... and don't want to go overboard by putting too much and adding more weight than necessary.

Also, how far into the hull do you lay the carbon cloth... as soon as the foam starts or closer to the tips?

[kfxguy]

Is weight a concern when filling those tips with epoxy/carbon? I'm thinking to fill the tips with epoxy/micro balloons/fiberglass millings and redo the foam on the front of my hull... as I have great stuff foam in there right now lol. Dasboata kind of changed my mind about using it. Thought it'd work just as well and could absorb impacts, etc.... guess not.

I just wouldn't know how much epoxy I should be using in the tips... and don't want to go overboard by putting too much and adding more weight than necessary.

Also, how far into the hull do you lay the carbon cloth... as soon as the foam starts or closer to the tips?



These hulls are light to start with. A little extra weight actually helps to keep it down at high speeds. I actually sand as far up as I can and put carbon as far as I can reach. My inlay piece is 14.5" x 16". I need to show pics on how I'm doing this one but I've used a couple separate pieces in the transom area to get all back there. The foam and the inlay do join. The foam does add some strength to it. I add epoxy and chopped carbon to the whole bottom on the sponsons from front to rear. I'm also trying to come up with a way to make a sanding tool to reach farther up towards the tip so I can sand the seam. I want to add a strip of carbon across the seam. I'm trying not to make this boat too heavy as its already going to have two motors and two escs. I wish I could use one big Esc to drive both motors. That would be awesome.

[shua]

I wish I could use one big Esc to drive both motors. That would be awesome.

http://alienpowersystem.com/shop/boat-esc/alien-300a-3-12s-boat-esc-hv-twin/

The owner/builder of these power systems, Bruno, is super nice and very helpful. I have one of his surface controllers running my Losi 5ive T with a Castle 2028 motor on 12s. It is a Beast!

The controller I linked here is not in stock, but shoot him an email, perhaps he would put a custom one together for you!

[kfxguy]

Finally got the inlay done.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/540030B7-1EEF-4F0F-9417-C2DCB0C3D56B.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/540030B7-1EEF-4F0F-9417-C2DCB0C3D56B.jpg.html)

[kfxguy]

I wanted to try out a tp motor because I was thinking about changing kv to a little higher if this boat runs right. I ordered a 3040 a few days ago from straight from tp (I checked ose store first and they don't carry them) and it showed up yesterday. They started screwing on the end caps instead of glueing them. Good move. The older tp motors I've run across were glued so I'm not sure how long ago they started screwing them. I've go a boat to try this one out to directly compare with the same case motors I'm running in here. So I should know this weekend how these little motors fair. It's exactly the same size as a 1415.


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/8D734C79-C2FB-4AD6-919F-6CAA990321DD.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/8D734C79-C2FB-4AD6-919F-6CAA990321DD.jpg.html)

[dmitry100]

Why not TP 4050's ? It would probably haul alot of ass on a small hull like that :)

Btw, how short is too short when shortening the motor wires on these TP's ? They shouldn't be like the Neu's where they are soldered onto the winding wires and cause issues if they are too short or overheated when soldering right. I was thinking to leave only like 1-2 inches max... Seemed like the cleaner way to go since the SF motor leads are long enough and would remain untouched.

[kfxguy]

Why not TP 4050's ? It would probably haul alot of ass on a small hull like that :)

Btw, how short is too short when shortening the motor wires on these TP's ? They shouldn't be like the Neu's where they are soldered onto the winding wires and cause issues if they are too short or overheated when soldering right. I was thinking to leave only like 1-2 inches max... Seemed like the cleaner way to go since the SF motor leads are long enough and would remain untouched.


Yea a 40mm motor don't fit. I've got to squeeze these is as it is. I also have to watch the weight on this thing too.

You can't cut these wires. They are hard ones like the neu motors. These motors are actually built pretty well. I may be switching the castles out. These look better too. Trying to get the drives installed tonight. It'll be downhill shortly.

[Brushless55]

I wanted to try out a tp motor because I was thinking about changing kv to a little higher if this boat runs right. I ordered a 3040 a few days ago from straight from tp (I checked ose store first and they don't carry them) and it showed up yesterday. They started screwing on the end caps instead of glueing them. Good move. The older tp motors I've run across were glued so I'm not sure how long ago they started screwing them. I've go a boat to try this one out to directly compare with the same case motors I'm running in here. So I should know this weekend how these little motors fair. It's exactly the same size as a 1415.



Really looking forward to what you think of the TP vs the Castle 1415

[kfxguy]

Well I wanted to take some pics but you won't see much. The drives are being tacked in place and the boat is taped to a glass table with the drive tubes shimmed and clamped in place in a level position. I'll take some pics tomorow and I've also got to make some sort of braces for them. One flip at high speed and they may break off. Stay tuned.

[dmitry100]

kfxguy: So no point of shortening these motor wires at all then? I'm assuming long battery wires are the most important...

[kfxguy]

kfxguy: So no point of shortening these motor wires at all then? I'm assuming long battery wires are the most important...

Shorter wires are always better but these are already short somewhat and these are the type you can't shorten because of the coating on the wires.

[kfxguy]

Here's the drive tubes. I've got to make some supports and support blocks when get home this evening

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/DF336B92-1865-4634-8C23-FDFE6A02D972.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/DF336B92-1865-4634-8C23-FDFE6A02D972.jpg.html)

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/A1FBCA4F-D73D-4D6F-AD78-29A68C12A433.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/A1FBCA4F-D73D-4D6F-AD78-29A68C12A433.jpg.html)

[Fella1340]

They sure look cool! You would know much better than most if running a fixed strut will give you what you need. Did you find most boats, singles included end up with the strut or stinger in the neutral position once dialed in? I'm looking forward to seeing this come together and you on the water with a twin, finally!

[kfxguy]

They sure look cool! You would know much better than most if running a fixed strut will give you what you need. Did you find most boats, singles included end up with the strut or stinger in the neutral position once dialed in? I'm looking forward to seeing this come together and you on the water with a twin, finally!

I'm kinda just winging it lol. I guess I've got a decent knowledge base to get somewhere. Everything I've built fast liked the strut level at high speed for sure. At lower speeds some like a little positive. It's gonna take a couple days to finish these struts. They were just tacked in in the pics. Now I'm epoxying them from the inside. Then an aluminum block for support on the outside along with a 3mm plate from the overhang to the tube.

[srislash]

I really like the look there Travis. Maybe make sure you have plenty of CG adjustment to deal with that fixed stinger setup.

[kfxguy]

I really like the look there Travis. Maybe make sure you have plenty of CG adjustment to deal with that fixed stinger setup.

Yea.....in this little hull I won't have much adjustment. I'm going to mount the motors first because I have no choice where they go, then I will mount the battery trays. Put batteries in. Then start laying out the rest of the stuff to set my Cg where my other rivercats were. I'll probably end up doing the Cg a tad further up because the twin props will likely give me more bow lift than a single prop. Then there is always a little ballast I can add. I'll do my best!

[kfxguy]

Really looking forward to what you think of the TP vs the Castle 1415



The tp did go a little faster but ran noticeably hotter. The tp went 64.5 and the castle went 61.8

[littlepooper206]

How much of the carbon drive shaft "tube" is in the hull ? Do you think it would help to have a good amount of the carbon tube in the hull so that you can attach them and get a good bite of support for them?, Well besides the normal support under the rear overhang of the hull where the support point comes down and attaches to the shafts when it comes to the drives ? Im just wondering for myself because when i saw this i really liked the idea and would like to try and implement the idea of your drives "carbon tubes" and i would like to put them on my next build... But if that is alright with you first of all ? If you object i will understand but if your cool with me borrowing your idea that would be great. I look forward for your reply on my many questions i have asked ya lol

[kfxguy]

How much of the carbon drive shaft "tube" is in the hull ? Do you think it would help to have a good amount of the carbon tube in the hull so that you can attach them and get a good bite of support for them?, Well besides the normal support under the rear overhang of the hull where the support point comes down and attaches to the shafts when it comes to the drives ? Im just wondering for myself because when i saw this i really liked the idea and would like to try and implement the idea of your drives "carbon tubes" and i would like to put them on my next build... But if that is alright with you first of all ? If you object i will understand but if your cool with me borrowing your idea that would be great. I look forward for your reply on my many questions i have asked ya lol

I have a little more than 1/2"'coming in the hull. Keep in mind that things are tight with this little hull and I'm running fairly large motors. Your welcome to do this if you like but I must warn you, it's a pita. It's hard keeping them lined up while the epoxy is drying. I had to jb weld the bearings in because the loctite sleeve retainer didn't hold them. Also put the bearings in last because I had to run a drill bit through the tubes because epoxy ran into the tubes (so it's a good thing the loctite didn't hold!!). I tacked one motor in place last night. I have had much time with it as I'm bouncing between 5 builds at once right now. I'll have to set my Cg once the motors are in place.


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/74D4E44E-737E-4E32-AEFE-724B380BEBB3.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/74D4E44E-737E-4E32-AEFE-724B380BEBB3.jpg.html)

[RCKong]

With those stingers you made, looks like moving your packs back and forth will be your only adjustment. Are your motors back far enough ? you might want to get those motors to the back as far as you can if you are putting your packs in the sponsons.
I hear ya about being a PITA... I built one of these out of spare parts and it is VERY useful installing bolts in these things. 134477

[kfxguy]

With those stingers you made, looks like moving your packs back and forth will be your only adjustment. Are your motors back far enough ? you might want to get those motors to the back as far as you can if you are putting your packs in the sponsons.
I hear ya about being a PITA... I built one of these out of spare parts and it is VERY useful installing bolts in these things. 134477


Man I have some awesome motor mounts. They are twist slotted. You loosen the screws a touch and twist motor and come right out. Easy.

I could not move the motor any further back because of the motor length and angle. Where it's at is as far back as I can get it. I'll figure it out. I have some ideas and I also know what the Cg needs to be on this hull.

[RCKong]

I could not move the motor any further back because of the motor length and angle I see what your saying. do you build the motor mounts ? i like the twist out mounts but not confident enough to make the slot and mount hole right.

[kfxguy]

I see what your saying. do you build the motor mounts ? i like the twist out mounts but not confident enough to make the slot and mount hole right.


I had Monojeff make them for me. I'll post a pic of the other. I have a template to trace if I ever need to. Once I get my cnc up and running (yea I still haven't fooled with it, been too busy) then I'll make a file for them.

[kfxguy]

I see what your saying. do you build the motor mounts ? i like the twist out mounts but not confident enough to make the slot and mount hole right.


Here's a short video I made just for you :)


http://youtu.be/b23VStItVss

[RCKong]

Man I'd get spoiled havin it that easy... LOL

[kfxguy]

Man I'd get spoiled havin it that easy... LOL

That's how I roll...I'm not fighting with screws in that little space.

[kfxguy]

Guys, give me some ideas on how to support those drive tubes. I'm not crazy about just gluing some carbon plate to them and calling it a day.....

[Brushless55]

The tp did go a little faster but ran noticeably hotter. The tp went 64.5 and the castle went 61.8

Thanks for the update :thumbup1:

[keithbradley]

Guys, give me some ideas on how to support those drive tubes. I'm not crazy about just gluing some carbon plate to them and calling it a day.....
Are you familiar with "The force"?

[kfxguy]

Are you familiar with "The force"?



Lol

[keithbradley]

I typically machine mine out of aluminum, with a threaded hole and grub screw at the top, or make a "clamp" from aluminum or carbon fiber. Do you know what I mean?

[kfxguy]

I'm not very happy how the epoxy came out on the motor mounts. My fault. For one I decided to use west systems with some colloidal silica. Well I must have a bad batch of it because mine has clumps and I've got to mix it forever to get it mixed. But it leaves little air bubbles from the mixing, even if I apply heat to it, the bubbles stay. So luckily I didn't do the whole mount that way, I ended up switching to west systems and some chopped carbon. Those areas look better so I'm going to go over the other areas with it. I also coated the brass tube with 5 minute epoxy dyed black so I don't see an ugly gold tube. It's just for looks an looks pretty good. Had I known I had some carbon sleeve laying around I would have done the tubes in that. But when I found the sleeve I had already glued them in. O well, my next build I'll do that. This thing has no dang room so there not much I can do anyway.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/644134F5-9BB4-4094-A064-EB8888142990.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/644134F5-9BB4-4094-A064-EB8888142990.jpg.html)

[Luck as a Constant]

An easier way to make your stuffing tubes black is to just put some heat shrink over them


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mxkid261]

Man that has to be super tight in there Lol, I thought it was tight working on my single but that looks real fun. Those motor mounts look super trick!!

[Mxkid261]

Also, Im just curious how far in the sponson your drive tubes go?

[kfxguy]

An easier way to make your stuffing tubes black is to just put some heat shrink over them


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I thought about heat shrink but it would be hard to replace it on the other side of the stuffing tube support that I haven't made just yet. The epoxy does look good tho.

[kfxguy]

Also, Im just curious how far in the sponson your drive tubes go?

Bout little more than 1/2"

[keithbradley]

Travis, are you mixing with a brush or a tongue depressor (or something else)? A brush will put a lot more air into the mixture.
Also, if you ever do make the bayonet mounts yourself, consider the (counter) rotation of the motors and make them appropriately (left and right versions). Otherwise, with powerful motors, they can spin off the mount over time.

I think you will love the twin. Have you considered what props you will be running yet?

[kfxguy]

Travis, are you mixing with a brush or a tongue depressor (or something else)? A brush will put a lot more air into the mixture.
Also, if you ever do make the bayonet mounts yourself, consider the (counter) rotation of the motors and make them appropriately (left and right versions). Otherwise, with powerful motors, they can spin off the mount over time.

I think you will love the twin. Have you considered what props you will be running yet?

The way the slots are cut, the rotation on the motors force them to stay at the end of the slot instead of twisting it out to the hole on the end. I'm mixing imwith a mixing stick. I may be mixing it too fast. I'll adjust my speed. I'm pretty stressed out at the moment as I put an aluminum backing plate in the transom so I can drill and tap it so I don't have to fight with the nuts down in that tight area and while tapping it, I broke the tap off in it. Let me tell you there was almost a bunch of holes punched in the wall. Luckily I was mounting the rudder up high and I ended up moving it down some and it looks better any way.

Props... Well I've got some cnc 442's to start off with. Then I've got some abc 1615's and 1715's for it.

[keithbradley]

The way the slots are cut, the rotation on the motors force them to stay at the end of the slot instead of twisting it out to the hole on the end. I'm mixing imwith a mixing stick. I may be mixing it too fast. I'll adjust my speed. I'm pretty stressed out at the moment as I put an aluminum backing plate in the transom so I can drill and tap it so I don't have to fight with the nuts down in that tight area and while tapping it, I broke the tap off in it. Let me tell you there was almost a bunch of holes punched in the wall. Luckily I was mounting the rudder up high and I ended up moving it down some and it looks better any way.

Props... Well I've got some cnc 442's to start off with. Then I've got some abc 1615's and 1715's for it.

So they are left and right (the motor mounts)? Are they made to spin the motors so the props rotate in, or out?

Been there with the tap man...What a giant pain that can be. :thumbdown: :sad:

[lt130th]

So they are left and right (the motor mounts)? Are they made to spin the motors so the props rotate in, or out?

Inboard rotation would keep the motors torqued into the slots. The mounts that tiqueman sent with my Shocker share the same direction in the twist slots, but they also have the top and bottom hole for four-bolt config, that will keep it locked in. Looks like Travis' mounts are the same. Is this not common for carbon plate motor mounts, cut to the sponson contour (the twist slots)?

134523

By the way, Travis, you better hurry up and finish this twin build so you can stay caught up with current trends. Keith is about to start building twin turbine HPR's (unless you just bought that bundle 'cause you didn't know what else to spend $15K on, haha). The next thing you know, everyone will be putting JetCat's in their Daytonas and Fantasms.

[kfxguy]

I just double checked. I have a left and right. Truth: first time building a twin. The motor mount direction is not something I thought about. Until now. I had planned on making the right side prop spin ccw and the left side spin clockwise. I guess this is called spinning inwards? Well just so happens the mounts are setup this way. I guess I had a 50/50 chance and I got lucky.

I got the servo mounted tonight a lot with the steering rod made up and mounted. All I've got left is a pass through fitting I have to machine for the boot to seal to. I'm thinking about a trim cover to cover the escs, bec, receiver and servo. I've got to figure out a shape I guess.


I also mocked most of it up. The Cg seems like it's going to end up exactly where I want it. It was an 1/8" forward of the Cg from my previous rivercats. I keep thinking that two props may create a little more bow lift than a single prop. I could be wrong.

[kfxguy]

Nothing special, just a couple pics of where I'm at.


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/A2006367-3375-45B5-AC0C-41B86841BE4D.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/A2006367-3375-45B5-AC0C-41B86841BE4D.jpg.html)


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/88ABA111-21D0-40C8-91B4-C488B628AFF4.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/88ABA111-21D0-40C8-91B4-C488B628AFF4.jpg.html)

[shua]

I'm really digging all the custom Carbon Fiber on this build! Awesome!!:buttrock:

[dmitry100]

Btw, wouldn't you have alot more space in the overall motor's length area if the motors mounts were not mounted so much at a downwards angle? Or is that done to keep water from coming out from the stuffing tubes?

Also, are you using any particular kind of servo rod there for the rudder... is it a typical 2mm in thickness rod?

[kfxguy]

Btw, wouldn't you have alot more space in the overall motor's length area if the motors mounts were not mounted so much at a downwards angle? Or is that done to keep water from coming out from the stuffing tubes?

Also, are you using any particular kind of servo rod there for the rudder... is it a typical 2mm in thickness rod?



1) the motors are as low as I can fit them. As a matter of fact I had to clearance some epoxy because the cooling jacket was hitting. The motors have to be at an angle, if they weren't, you'd never get the flex lined up unless you did an s bend. I'm not a fan of s bends.

2) for mockup I'm using a 4-40 rod. I'm likely going to be swapping that out for a thicker rod. I do have some carbon rod but I have to have a slight bend in the rod so carbon will not work.

[srislash]

I think you will love the twin. Have you considered what props you will be running yet?

And on this note, I do have a few prop choices here if you want to try them Travis, 4019/2, 4019/4, 4217/3, 4513/2, 4518/2... May have a few more but I am just throwing them out there buddy. Just letting you know you can try em.

[kfxguy]

And on this note, I do have a few prop choices here if you want to try them Travis, 4019/2, 4019/4, 4217/3, 4513/2, 4518/2... May have a few more but I am just throwing them out there buddy. Just letting you know you can try em.


Thanks buddy! I'll let you know if I need anything.


Should I run seperate cooling lines or can I split them? I plan on drilling the fittings for mor flow and using larger line. Thoughts?

[kfxguy]

Getting it wired up. Checked the Cg again and it's sooooo close to what I want it at. I think once the trim plate and flexes are added, it will be dead on. Hopefully. Lol.


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/5D769747-831D-494F-9ED5-DFB618A2FF57.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/5D769747-831D-494F-9ED5-DFB618A2FF57.jpg.html)


Of course the wires will be tidied up but this shows the layout. I wasn't sure how I was doing it until tonight. Winging it I guess on this part.


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/24DEBDD8-3FBD-402A-A31C-D95C57254EBA.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/24DEBDD8-3FBD-402A-A31C-D95C57254EBA.jpg.html)

[srislash]

I would think splitting the cooling lines would be adequate Travis. I usually do thru hull pickups for each side but I am talking larger hulls here. At first look it looks like you would have too much rear CG there but then your packs are going to be hefty for this size hull. I found 32% right on the Fantasm with the ABC's but there is a ton of neg dialed in as well.

[dmitry100]

kfxguy: How do you check Cg ?

[kfxguy]

kfxguy: How do you check Cg ?

Well I've always been a build it how everything fits kind of guy but when you try to approach high high speeds, little things like this make a difference. So I put it on a 3/4" round rod and measure where it balances.

[dmitry100]

What kind of water jackets are those? They look like some nice heavy duty ones.

Was actually thinking to upgrade the TP jackets I have for better cooling... I think those 1715 props might be heating things up like the 448's. (Clocked about 87 mph first them with them btw on the short distance run using a 10hz refresh Garmin Glo). :)

[kfxguy]

What kind of water jackets are those? They look like some nice heavy duty ones.

Was actually thinking to upgrade the TP jackets I have for better cooling... I think those 1715 props might be heating things up like the 448's. (Clocked about 87 mph first them with them btw on the short distance run using a 10hz refresh Garmin Glo). :)

I have 36mm motors so keep that in mind. I get those jackets from the ose store. Second page. They are for a fiago motor or something weird but they work perfect.

[dmitry100]

kfxguy: What are those carbon fiber looking jackets you sometimes use? Do you custom make them yourself?

[kfxguy]

kfxguy: What are those carbon fiber looking jackets you sometimes use? Do you custom make them yourself?


I made one out of carbon tube once and mostly it's very thin carbon that I epoxy around a cooling jacket. I was thinking about doing it on this boat.

[Fella1340]

Looking great Travis. How do you like building a twin versus a single? You mentioned the carbon fiber sleeve awhile back. I sent that to you after your second build. I was wondering when it might show up in a boat. I thought they may be more trouble than there worth, make sure the tube is already black before using or you'll be seeing gold through the sleeve fabric.
I'm excited for you on this build, you've pulled almost 100 with a single. Will double the cost and work of twins be worthwhile on this size cat (for sport running). You could do a comparison, say you hit 110 mph, what did each additional mph cost over your previous best as a single. I could see it getting into the $100 plus for each additional mph. I hope you end up liking twins a lot, you can really start pushing the envelope then!! You are a boat building machine, keep it up😀. Sorry for rambling so much, not really.

[kfxguy]

Looking great Travis. How do you like building a twin versus a single? You mentioned the carbon fiber sleeve awhile back. I sent that to you after your second build. I was wondering when it might show up in a boat. I thought they may be more trouble than there worth, make sure the tube is already black before using or you'll be seeing gold through the sleeve fabric.
I'm excited for you on this build, you've pulled almost 100 with a single. Will double the cost and work of twins be worthwhile on this size cat (for sport running). You could do a comparison, say you hit 110 mph, what did each additional mph cost over your previous best as a single. I could see it getting into the $100 plus for each additional mph. I hope you end up liking twins a lot, you can really start pushing the envelope then!! You are a boat building machine, keep it up��. Sorry for rambling so much, not really.

Had I remembered I had that sleeve you sent me before I epoxied in the first tube, I would have used it. I tried it an an experiment on a piece of brass and the weave on it is thick enough you don't see brass through it. Honestly this build cost me less that a high end single build. These motors are cheap and so are the escs. It definitely cost me a lot less than my last Rivercat. That motor in there was $450. At this point if it does 75-80 I'd be happy. That's all I expect out of this setup. If the boat is stable then I will move forward with getting more out of it.

[keithbradley]

Dude, you're going to love this thing. When comparing a single to a twin, don't think in terms of speed. After all, the FASTEST official record by an RC boat is held by a single motor/prop machine. Single prop boats are actually more efficient than twin prop boats, in the same manner that 2 blade props are more efficient than 4 blade props.
However, using two motors helps to unload the boat and make aggressive setups more reliable and "sport" worthy. It also completely changes the way a boat handles and accelerates. Nothing drives like a TWIN!

[kfxguy]

Wife has been restricting my shop time during the week lol (says I don't spend enough family time and she's right) so I haven't made much progress. I did wore it up really quick last night and run most of the cooling lines. Bonded the receiver and Calibrated escs. Did a bench test and everything is working properly. I really need a set of collets now. My pinion adaptor sleeves I had in the collets allow too much runout and I'm not doing that. Vibrates too much too. Not good. If anyone has any ideas where to get some 1/8 to .187 collets from let me know. Right now the plan is I ordered a set of octura 1/8 to 4mm that I was going to drill in my lathe .030 bigger.


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/65522CF9-6887-40F5-8F0B-91A4BF2541DC.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/65522CF9-6887-40F5-8F0B-91A4BF2541DC.jpg.html)

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/988787C7-DAD0-4E17-A012-ECFB13B16627.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/988787C7-DAD0-4E17-A012-ECFB13B16627.jpg.html)



What can I put up front? It looks so empty! Lol

[dmitry100]

You should throw in 2 of these >> http://www.rc-raceboats.de/shop/lng/en/lmt-basic-xxl.html

[kfxguy]

You should throw in 2 of these >> http://www.rc-raceboats.de/shop/lng/en/lmt-basic-xxl.html


Yea I have no idea how this boat is even going to run so I hate to spend that much money on it. Im probably going to buy a set of tp motors if I can't find collets. I could make my own but at this point time is money and I don't have the time, I'd rather buy them or buy new motors to save time. No to mention I don't have ac in the shop that my lathe is in and it's been in the high 90's here lately. Yea, I'd rather buy new motors lol.

[kfxguy]

O well. I ordered a pair of tp 3640 motors and had them 2 day shipped. Don't like waiting and I don't like rigging something up that needs to be perfectly centered.

[dmitry100]

Btw, any ideas where I can buy a double sided carbon fiber servo horn? I'm sure I seen you use some in the past... but This is the closest thing I found >> http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10072__Carbon_Fiber_servo_arm_58mm_2pcs_bag_.htm l
Just not sure how I would mount it. I think it'd make things look nice...

[readyfireaim]

What KV are those 3640?

[kfxguy]

What KV are those 3640?

2540kv I'll be running 3s for sport and 4s for speed. I'm not dead set on these, I may get a set of neu 1415's if the boat runs good

[kfxguy]

Btw, any ideas where I can buy a double sided carbon fiber servo horn? I'm sure I seen you use some in the past... but This is the closest thing I found >> http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10072__Carbon_Fiber_servo_arm_58mm_2pcs_bag_.htm l
Just not sure how I would mount it. I think it'd make things look nice...

You screw it to a round servo horn.

[dmitry100]

Have you considered maybe running some Wolt's wire drives for this? I think it would work perfect since you have fixed angle drives..

[kfxguy]

Have you considered maybe running some Wolt's wire drives for this? I think it would work perfect since you have fixed angle drives..


I have too much of an angle.

[readyfireaim]

Are you gonna be able to get her in the water this weekend?

[kfxguy]

Are you gonna be able to get her in the water this weekend?

Not unless my collets make it here. I paid for two day shipping from tp and bought them in the morning but for some reason they shipped yesterday instead of Thursday.

[dmitry100]

Yea. TP has a bit of a shipping delay. Maybe I'm just spoiled by Amazon's same day processing + 2 day free shipping.

[kfxguy]

Yea. TP has a bit of a shipping delay. Maybe I'm just spoiled by Amazon's same day processing + 2 day free shipping.


Yea. I left them a note in the note section. They apologized and said it won't be here till Monday. Collets didn't come either. On a positive note my replacement screen for my iPhone 6 I shattered the other day, showed up and some really nice battery straps I'm trying out showed up too.

[dmitry100]

I really don't like velcro straps... mostly because they almost always tear in a flip, etc.
Unless you're using some sort of industrial velcro. But you can also stick some of this on the bottom of the batteries so that they don't move around:
http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Industrial-Strength-Wide-Black/dp/B00006RSP1/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1437862494&sr=8-1&keywords=velcro+heavy+duty
http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Industrial-Strength-Extreme-Titanium/dp/B005756516/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1437862495&sr=8-2&keywords=velcro+industrial+strength

You can prob use the Extreme one w/o straps (sticking them on the batteries) and it would prob hold just fine since its super strong.

Regular velcro tears off really easily... so I bought myself some reusable/releaseable cable ties: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105801-12-Inch50LBS-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B004C4U3KM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1437862712&sr=8-3&keywords=cable+ties+reusable+12+inch

BTW ... What are you using for the weather seal on your hatches? You mentioned it somewhere just don't remember where...

[kfxguy]

I really don't like velcro straps... mostly because they almost always tear in a flip, etc.
Unless you're using some sort of industrial velcro. But you can also stick some of this on the bottom of the batteries so that they don't move around:
http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Industrial-Strength-Wide-Black/dp/B00006RSP1/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1437862494&sr=8-1&keywords=velcro+heavy+duty
http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Industrial-Strength-Extreme-Titanium/dp/B005756516/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1437862495&sr=8-2&keywords=velcro+industrial+strength

You can prob use the Extreme one w/o straps (sticking them on the batteries) and it would prob hold just fine since its super strong.



Regular velcro tears off really easily... so I bought myself some reusable/releaseable cable ties: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105801-12-Inch50LBS-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B004C4U3KM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1437862712&sr=8-3&keywords=cable+ties+reusable+12+inch

BTW ... What are you using for the weather seal on your hatches? You mentioned it somewhere just don't remember where...

I use straps with a buckle on it. I've never had one let go. I use Velcro on the battery and battery tray to keep it from sliding out the straps. I've crashed many times over 90mph and never had them let go. I use only the industrial Velcro. I would trust just Velcro with no straps at the speeds I'm doing. The battery would most definitely come loose then it may hit something in the inside of the boat and get punctured.

I use a thin narrow foam seal on my hatches. I got most of it from Keith Bradly but I found an alternate source in Florida to get some stuff almost as good. I need to post more details during this build I see. I'll try to find time.

[kfxguy]

I got the tp motors in last night. They fit much better. I forgot to take a pic. Get to it tonight.

[larryrose11]

Subscribed

[kfxguy]

Any ideas to dress up the plainness of it? The front part is just too empty. What about a pair of voltage gauges for each power system?

[readyfireaim]

How did you end up supporting those drive tubes?

[kfxguy]

How did you end up supporting those drive tubes?


I haven't yet. I was going to run it on 3s and small props first to see how the ride attitude is. Then I'm going to epoxy 3mm carbon plate to lock them in place.

[kfxguy]

Nothing special but a crucial part of the build. The linkage boot fitting. I always make my own for several reasons. One is because the diameter is smaller allowing the small boot I use to fit better. Then I make a smaller hole in it where the rod passes through. I find this stops a lot of bending and deflection the rod could have. This linkage is pretty much a straight shot and I want it tight as can be. I also make my own because I reinforce the transom with epoxy and chopped carbon so it has to be able to pass all the way through it of course.


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/BF5945B7-488C-422B-8381-CAAC0B5F7127.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/BF5945B7-488C-422B-8381-CAAC0B5F7127.jpg.html)


I also got these little things in. I'm making som trim plates to flush mount them in to give me the voltage of each individual battery. They are able to be calibrated so I calibrated them exactly the same with my multi meter. They are perfect size with a number display at .300" tall.



http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/6BE85FE7-047D-4B03-964A-AC46849BA4AA.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/6BE85FE7-047D-4B03-964A-AC46849BA4AA.jpg.html)

[kfxguy]

And how it looks. It's jb welded in. Perfect spacing.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/3E3CC828-AB8D-4466-88AF-D1DEEAE5DA3E.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/3E3CC828-AB8D-4466-88AF-D1DEEAE5DA3E.jpg.html)

[kfxguy]

So the hold up is I'm having custom battery trays made and some trim plates made. Monojeff is cutting all of it out for me. Sent me some pics last night and I'm excited. I drew up the trim plates the other day and he's gonna do them this week too. The battery gauges will be flush mounted in a lower tier plate. The trim plates are going to be overlapping and two levels. Then there will be a spot for a gps. Should turn out pretty nice! I can't wait!

[Fella1340]

Sweet looking boat man! I'm digging your doing a twin and your going all out on it. Just finish it and get it in the water!!

[kfxguy]

Sweet looking boat man! I'm digging your doing a twin and your going all out on it. Just finish it and get it in the water!!

Thanks! I'm thinking about painting something on it while I wait for parts. Or I can have the wife cut me some vinyl out. Honestly I could run it the way it is without battery trays but there's no need to rush it. I am anxious to see how it's gonna run.

[kfxguy]

Monojeff just cut out my trim plates. Awesome!!! I can't wait. He also cut my battery trays. Should have it all mid week and finish this thing up. I think it's gonna turn out nice. He didn't have time to deburr the plates if he was shipping them today. I was plenty on with that. I can sure sand the edges myself if I get them quicker! Excited!


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/DF8BF6C9-76CF-41B9-915E-FC91497DFCA2.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/DF8BF6C9-76CF-41B9-915E-FC91497DFCA2.jpg.html)

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/10339DBA-DD09-4379-9F66-D4A6518719C3.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/10339DBA-DD09-4379-9F66-D4A6518719C3.jpg.html)

[shua]

The voltage gauge plate is going to look sweet! Can't wait to see that completed!

[monojeff]

Here is a photo of one of the plates that is all clean and pretty.
The one with the ragged edges was when the bit started to get dull but easily sanded/filed smooth.

[kfxguy]

The voltage gauge plate is going to look sweet! Can't wait to see that completed!

I can't wait either. Gonna have the wife cut a decal out or something so it's not so plain. Maybe say "Rivercat twin" or something. In green of course.

[monojeff]

Funny it would have use to been ill have Jeff cut me a decal for the plate.
I been replaced. :(

Glad your having success in house and she is enjoying it and making things work!
I've got bigger fish to fry and carbon dust to make!

[kfxguy]

Funny it would have use to been ill have Jeff cut me a decal for the plate.
I been replaced. :(

Glad your having success in house and she is enjoying it and making things work!
I've got bigger fish to fry and carbon dust to make!

Lol, if you insist! I was almost going to have you engrave something but I wasn't sure what.

[monojeff]

I was thinking the same thing on the engraving!
You could even paint fill it for a neat new look.

[kfxguy]

Here's the plate with the voltage gauges. Turned out nice I think.


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/188FA9ED-9F4B-4A20-8F54-4BAD699E35E7.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/188FA9ED-9F4B-4A20-8F54-4BAD699E35E7.jpg.html)

[Mxkid261]

Very cool those look handy, are those just tied into each of your batteries?

[kfxguy]

Very cool those look handy, are those just tied into each of your batteries?

Yes that's how they will be hooked up, individual to each battery.

[readyfireaim]

Lookin good. I'm really looking forward to seeing this baby hit the water!

[Mxkid261]

Is the plate with the volt gauges your ESC top plate also?

[Fella1340]

I'm liking the gauges, they look sharp and are good insurance as a last check before the deck goes on. I may use them in one of my boats if I ever get one in the water:-/ How many boats do you have in progress right now?

[kfxguy]

Is the plate with the volt gauges your ESC top plate also?

No, it's going to baca two layer trim plate assy. I'll get it done soon and post some pics.

[kfxguy]

I'm liking the gauges, they look sharp and are good insurance as a last check before the deck goes on. I may use them in one of my boats if I ever get one in the water:-/ How many boats do you have in progress right now?
Thx. It took a while to find these things. They are two wire and very small and adjustable.

O man. I got quite a list. I've been turning people down. I don't even have a running boat for myself right now except my mini Rivercat. The mono is pretty much done but I haven't bent tested it yet and programmed the Esc. Maybe tonight. I've had to turn people down lately. Getting too backed up. I had someone try to buy my mono and I haven't even run it yet. Same thing for this boat. Lol. I've had a few people try to buy this Rivercat. I'm anxious to see how it runs.

[boilo56]

kfxguy, is there any benefit running the strut tubes that close and down the center of the boat?

[readyfireaim]

Gonna get her in the water this weekend?

[kfxguy]

kfxguy, is there any benefit running the strut tubes that close and down the center of the boat?


Not that I know of. Just did it the way most twins I've seen are done.

[kfxguy]

Gonna get her in the water this weekend?


I doubt it. I've been preoccupied with other things and haven't quite finished it yet. I still have the hatch bolts and seal to do, work props, put battery trays in, cut flexes

[Rocstar]

kfxguy, is there any benefit running the strut tubes that close and down the center of the boat?

Not that I know of. Just did it the way most twins I've seen are done.
Yes, we usually try to keep the drives as close to the tunnel as possible. Helps with steering and handling. How crucial it is to do so is debatable, but it doesn't hurt.

[kfxguy]

Yes, we usually try to keep the drives as close to the tunnel as possible. Helps with steering and handling. How crucial it is to do so is debatable, but it doesn't hurt.

There you go! I would take what Joel says to the bank. He's done quite a few more twins than me! I think one of the boats I looked at when positioning the drives was a Rivercat he built.

[Rocstar]

Looking good by the way, but be careful.....Once you do twins, one motor just isn't as satisfying.

[kfxguy]

Looking good by the way, but be careful.....Once you do twins, one motor just isn't as satisfying.



Yea...I haven't even run this one and I've got something else in the works :)

[readyfireaim]

How's she coming along?

[kfxguy]

How's she coming along?


I kinda dropped the ball on it. Trying to get other people's stuff done. I ordered the last pieces to the puzzle today....the smaller diameter rivet nuts. The hatch bolts should be getting here any day. I'm going to untape the whole boat tonight and put battery trays in and clearance the side rails for the 4s packs to fit better. I may end up making a quick harness to change up how I'm running the batteries, whether in series or parallel.

[kfxguy]

Finished this last weekend and went ran it. Loads of fun. Love the sound and stability. Noting got even warm. I ran 56 on 3s and 67.8 on 4s. Not even the props I was going to end up with. It kept pushing the rudder back and the bow was lifting wanting to flip. That cheesy plastic breakaway screw isn't good enough at this speed. I have some brass ones coming. That was also with 40mm props. Real mild setup. Here's a video even tho I rolled it over in it own wake



http://youtu.be/Jf0HcnvPviM

[srislash]

Ahh, now the twin bug has bitten!

[kfxguy]

Ahh, now the twin bug has bitten!

Yes I can't deny it. I like it but I still don't like the extra cost, complexity and extra build time. This boat was actually sold a couple days ago which is what prompted me to finish it. Too many irons in the fire do I had dropped the ball on it. Now that I finished it I'm sorry I sold it but I'm planning another build like it with a few changes. This was more or less practice and to see if I'd like it so I didn't put a ton of time or money in it. Here's some pics


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/B8539632-1E92-4874-933E-628FA0B19F0C.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/B8539632-1E92-4874-933E-628FA0B19F0C.jpg.html)



This was on 4s (2 2s packs in series) with cnc x442 un modded props) you can see my esc connector configuration. One way I can run an individual battery to each esc and the other for higher voltage (up to 5s) I can run two smaller packs in series.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/08DD0967-8417-4414-A143-A6F79849B272.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/08DD0967-8417-4414-A143-A6F79849B272.jpg.html)

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/104E0E0D-AC6B-4569-9CDF-5EF255F6891C.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/104E0E0D-AC6B-4569-9CDF-5EF255F6891C.jpg.html)

[srislash]

So that was 4s1p on twin motors?

[kfxguy]

So that was 4s1p on twin motors?


Yes. I'm not up to speed on the 4s1p thing but it was a 2s pack on each side run in series to make 4s and then feeding both motors. Had good runtime too that way. The 3s setup (seperate 3s pack per motor) should be well over 5 minutes. I ran it for about 4 minutes and packs were at 4.0v per cell. I'm mapping out my next twin build...

[Rafael_Lopez]

Looking good Travis. What KV are your motors?

[srislash]

Yes. I'm not up to speed on the 4s1p thing but it was a 2s pack on each side run in series to make 4s and then feeding both motors. Had good runtime too that way. The 3s setup (seperate 3s pack per motor) should be well over 5 minutes. I ran it for about 4 minutes and packs were at 4.0v per cell. I'm mapping out my next twin build...

Amazing, I guess it is uber light so it does not take much oomph to get it going and keep it there.

[kfxguy]

Looking good Travis. What KV are your motors?


Little 36mm 2550kv tp motors

[kfxguy]

Amazing, I guess it is uber light so it does not take much oomph to get it going and keep it there.

Weighs 8.172lbs with batteries

[readyfireaim]

It came out great!