Burnt up 180A v3 hobbywing ESC?

[Mxkid261]

Long story short my spartan ESC finally started giving me issues after a year, so a month ago I purchased a 180A v3 hobbywing from the OSE store. Then about 2 weeks ago I purchased a Rivercat hull from Travis and decided to use the ESC for that. Well I had to try it out Lol so Ive ran about 8 times with it in the spartan and possibly burnt it up today. Boat cut out after about 5 minutes, got it quick with my jetski and when I pulled the top off there was a very small amount of smoke. Capacitors look burnt or something. Motor timing was 3.75 degrees on stock castle motor. Am I out $120 or is there any warranty on these? Thanks http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx156/mxkid261/Mobile%20Uploads/image_12.jpghttp://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx156/mxkid261/Mobile%20Uploads/image_13.jpg

[kfxguy]

Man that motor that comes in the Spartan seems to be a serious AMP HOG. Another thing to think about is your batteries. If your not running at least a 5000mah 50c battery.....your asking for problems.

[Mxkid261]

I either run the traxxas 5000mah 25c or I have a set of SPC 7200mah 70c thats what was in it when it cut out. So this things is pretty much junk toss it in the garbage Lol? Sucks cus I wanted to use this for my rivercat you sold me! What ESC should I save my money for? Also the ESC blinks red and beeps once a few seconds apart if powered up

[kfxguy]

I either run the traxxas 5000mah 25c or I have a set of SPC 7200mah 70c thats what was in it when it cut out. So this things is pretty much junk toss it in the garbage Lol? Sucks cus I wanted to use this for my rivercat you sold me! What ESC should I save my money for? Also the ESC blinks red and beeps once a few seconds apart if powered up


Don't use the low c batts in that for sure. Spc batts are very good. The seaking 180 will work fine in the Rivercat. If you want the best you can get for it, swordfish 240 pro plus 2 fits the bill there but it's about $270. I don't like the lower model swordfish. They are cheesy looking. I highly recommend eliminating the built in bec in the seaking (that's probably the issue with it, or programming) because it created more heat in the Esc. Pull the red wire out the receiver plug, tape it and then add an external bec. I've been using some really cheap ones in my lower voltage stuff that hold up really well.

[Mxkid261]

What kind of BEC do you recommend? Should I toss this ESC in the garbage or should I try to get it warrantied??

[kfxguy]

I've been using these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HOBBYWING-RC-UBEC-5V-6V-3A-Max-5A-Lowest-RF-Noise-BEC-/321776973611?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aeb66f72b

[kfxguy]

What kind of BEC do you recommend? Should I toss this ESC in the garbage or should I try to get it warrantied??

Maybe contact hobbywing and see.

[ray schrauwen]

Is the Castle motor a Y wind or a D wind? Best I know is Castle only does Y winds I think? If the motor is a Y wind and most likely is, the timing is way too low and should have been 10 to 15 degrees. The 3.5 timing cooked you're caps, kinda voids warranty imo but, try anyway.
The caps are toast but, you may be able to sacrifice the esc. You would have to pull off the caps from the main unit with pliers making sure any leftover metal leads are remove and or insulated with some glue. Remove the caps from the power leads and add new ones, Rubycon ZL or ZLH caps from Steve at OSE. A Castle cap bank from OSE would be simplest. If you can find just a polarized cap of some kind in the 480uf, 35vdc rasnge first, solder in and bench tested before spending money on a cap bank, maybe it can be saved.

Stop using internal bec and dont use low c batts.

[ray schrauwen]

Double post

[ray schrauwen]

Is the Castle motor a Y wind or a D wind? Best I know is Castle only does Y winds I think? If the motor is a Y wind and most likely is, the timing is way too low and should have been 10 to 15 degrees. The 3.5 timing cooked you're caps, kinda voids warranty imo but, try anyway.
The caps are toast but, you may be able to sacrifice the esc. You would have to pull off the caps from the main unit with pliers making sure any leftover metal leads are remove and or insulated with some glue. Remove the caps from the power leads and add new ones, Rubycon ZL or ZLH caps from Steve at OSE. A Castle cap bank from OSE would be simplest. If you can find just a polarized cap of some kind in the 480uf, 35vdc rasnge first, solder in and bench tested before spending money on a cap bank, maybe it can be saved.

Stop using internal bec and dont use low c batts.

[Mxkid261]

Awesome thanks a lot for the info I was not aware of the timing difference between a Y/D winding motor. So I can pull the caps from the actual speed controller body and seal that off, then pull the caps off the positive/negative wires and just solder in a castle cap bank? If I just cooked the caps could I possibly fix it with the cap bank? Also do I need to heat the caps up on the ESC or just grab with a pliers and give them a yank Lol? Thanks again I appreciate

[ray schrauwen]

If the esc is considered dead at this time yes, just pull off the caps with pliers from main unit, no heat or more can be damaged. Unsolder the caps from the main leads and toss out.

It would be cheapest to get one capacitor first to solder onto the leads to test the esc if it will still live before buying a whole cap bank.

Just make sure when you pull the caps of main board that you don't have any remaining wires that can short out. If it works, seal up the holes where caps were and solder in a nice cap bank. Don't waste more money than you have to.

[Mxkid261]

Thanks a bunch for the info I will try that first. I will pull the caps off my spartan esc and try those to see if its actually dead

[Jamey]

Mxkid,
What prop were you running? I have had the caps get really hot on my 180 also. Not like yours, but still really hot. Have since increased the motor and prop sizes and it has been fine. Weird. I try not to hammer the throttle as much now.

I don't believe the timing was the issue. I have ran 0 timing forever on castle y motors and never had an issue. They draw less amps with less timing, they just lose rpm. Just because Ys benefit from extra timing doesn't mean they have to have it to run right. This of course in my experience only.

[dmitry100]

Get some of the 560uf rubycon caps off of ebay... I got a pack of 10 of them for like 6 bucks or something.

[mihelone]

Good evening everybody. since I do not want to open a new thread, I continue on this one.
I have an osprey running on a leo 4082 1800 kv,seaking 180a v3 esc, 2x5000 mah pararel 40c lipos and an octura m445prop.
Yesterday I test run the boat the motor kept cutting for small periods, ie for 0.5 second.
After returning home I removed the esc and I saw that the diode in the cap bank on the power cables was cut horizantally in 2 pieces (diode data can be seen in the attached photo).
I think that this was the cause of the motor interupting.
The question is if I can run the esc without the diode .
Thank you in advance,
Demosthenis

[Mxkid261]

I was running a 40mm 3 blade CNC from the OSE store, maybe this was too much prop?

[Mxkid261]

Which type of capacitor do I need? How is a 1000uF 35V 20% radial-lead electrolytic capacitor from radioshack?

[ray schrauwen]

I didn't know there was a diode in there???

Now, I'm not sure how to advise.

Are you sure it's a diode and not a capacitor or resistor?

Mxkid, you can us that capacitor only for a quick test. We need to find out exactly what that extra component is. We should ask Dr. Wayne.

[mihelone]

I didn't know there was a diode in there???

Now, I'm not sure how to advise.

Are you sure it's a diode and not a capacitor or resistor?

Mxkid, you can us that capacitor only for a quick test. We need to find out exactly what that extra component is. We should ask Dr. Wayne.

Good morning.
Its a diode, what is writen on it is PJ4196 SX34. Asearch in wikipedia showed that its a Schottky diode.
I removed it and the esc works fine. I am going to test on water later today and report the results....

[tlandauer]

The V3 has this diode, that is part of the bulge on the wires. Replace the whole thing with a cap bank, the stock ones will need any help they can get.

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

[Mxkid261]

Ok so thats a diode soldered to the capacitors on the wires?? I removed the capacitors from the ESC body and they were puffed and one had a crack. Im just trying to find something from radio shack to just test this ESC quick before I go wasting money on a nice cap bank. This is what I was looking at but Im not sure if it will work? Thanks http://comingsoon.radioshack.com/1000uf-35v-20-radial-lead-electrolytic-capacitor/2721032.html

[mihelone]

The V3 has this diode, that is part of the bulge on the wires. Replace the whole thing with a cap bank, the stock ones will need any help they can get.

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk
After the test 'flight' I have all the replies I needed.
The small cuts in the motor's operation occurred due to a defective receiver antenna, almost cut from the receiver's pcb. I replaced the receiver and all went smooth.
I continued testing after the replacement and what I noticed was that the ESC cut after 2 or 3 minutes of mild game. After cutting it began nipping. I assumed that something was going on with the esc's bec so I put an external bec with a 2s 800 man lipo. Tested again with a pair of fresh lipos and everything was fine and the ESC ran cooler too. So what I can say is similar to what is written in previous posts: do not use the esc's bec.....and I don't think that the diode has a serious job to do there.
Please the most experienced comment on this so as we become better and more wise...
PS: I have already replaced the 2x370 uf caps on the power wires with 2x1000 uf ones....if this means something.

[ray schrauwen]

Ok so thats a diode soldered to the capacitors on the wires?? I removed the capacitors from the ESC body and they were puffed and one had a crack. Im just trying to find something from radio shack to just test this ESC quick before I go wasting money on a nice cap bank. This is what I was looking at but Im not sure if it will work? Thanks http://comingsoon.radioshack.com/1000uf-35v-20-radial-lead-electrolytic-capacitor/2721032.html

That will work for a quick test. Make sure the capacitor is wired in correctly with white negative side on black wire or it will pop in a bad way as soon as you plug in a lipo.

[kfxguy]

After the test 'flight' I have all the replies I needed.
The small cuts in the motor's operation occurred due to a defective receiver antenna, almost cut from the receiver's pcb. I replaced the receiver and all went smooth.
I continued testing after the replacement and what I noticed was that the ESC cut after 2 or 3 minutes of mild game. After cutting it began nipping. I assumed that something was going on with the esc's bec so I put an external bec with a 2s 800 man lipo. Tested again with a pair of fresh lipos and everything was fine and the ESC ran cooler too. So what I can say is similar to what is written in previous posts: do not use the esc's bec.....and I don't think that the diode has a serious job to do there.
Please the most experienced comment on this so as we become better and more wise...
PS: I have already replaced the 2x370 uf caps on the power wires with 2x1000 uf ones....if this means something.



1) I always replace that dinky little cap bank on the wires with a real cap bank.
2) I don't use the built in bec for the same reason you experienced. It's easier on the Esc to not use it.

[Mxkid261]

Awesome I will give that a try and report back later when I bench test it. What size lipo do you recommend for an external BEC?

[mihelone]

Awesome I will give that a try and report back later when I bench test it. What size lipo do you recommend for an external BEC?

I use a 2s 800 mah lipo, its just a receiver and a servo to power...its ok for a rc boat.

[mihelone]

Or you can either attach 2 cables on your main power cables which will go to the external bec, so no aditional battery this way. This method is ok if i.e your received is near your esc's main power cables...Your choice.

[Mxkid261]

What do you mean by "near" my ESC's main power cables? Like in close proximity to them? Thanks for the replies

[mihelone]

Yes, in proximity, as you don't have to have a long cable from the ESC cables to the bec and the receiver.

[ray schrauwen]

I use a 2s 800 mah lipo, its just a receiver and a servo to power...its ok for a rc boat.

I use 800mah 2S up to 1200mah 2S but, high C rating so they can be charged fairly fast and handle the demands of almost any servo.

Zippy 1000mah 20C are nice or similar. Don't go super cheap on ebay with no name lipos. Steve sells some I think?

[Mxkid261]

Ok cool. So Im pretty sure this thing is fried. I got a capacitor and soldered it in. ESC powers up but the led blinks red/beeps every 2 seconds, and the motor jerks slightly when it blinks. Bummer lol

[Mxkid261]

Im looking on hobbyking and noticed the v3 180a has an extra cap bank on the wires with what looks like 5-6 caps
and mine had 2 anyone know what this is? Thanks
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__74074__Turnigy_Marine_180A_BEC_Waterproof_Speed_ Controller_with_Water_Cooling.html

[domwilson]

Have you contacted Steven on OSE yet? He is really helpful with these matters.

[Mxkid261]

I have not contacted him, but I already ripped the caps off of the main unit so unfortunately I think Im SOL at this point lol.

[Jeff]

Long story short my spartan ESC finally started giving me issues after a year, so a month ago I purchased a 180A v3 hobbywing from the OSE store. Then about 2 weeks ago I purchased a Rivercat hull from Travis and decided to use the ESC for that. Well I had to try it out Lol so Ive ran about 8 times with it in the spartan and possibly burnt it up today. Boat cut out after about 5 minutes, got it quick with my jetski and when I pulled the top off there was a very small amount of smoke. Capacitors look burnt or something. Motor timing was 3.75 degrees on stock castle motor. Am I out $120 or is there any warranty on these? Thanks http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx156/mxkid261/Mobile%20Uploads/image_12.jpghttp://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx156/mxkid261/Mobile%20Uploads/image_13.jpg


Five minutes is an awful long time to run anything with a hotter set up. Have you ran this set up checking heat every minute so you know you can push this that far?

[Jamey]

Im looking on hobbyking and noticed the v3 180a has an extra cap bank on the wires with what looks like 5-6 caps
and mine had 2 anyone know what this is? Thanks
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__74074__Turnigy_Marine_180A_BEC_Waterproof_Speed_ Controller_with_Water_Cooling.html

Wow you are right, good catch! It is strange HW would let Turnigy sell their esc with improvements for less money then they do. I think it is pretty clear to me at this point the hw version needs some help in the capacitor department.

[Jamey]

Ok cool. So Im pretty sure this thing is fried. I got a capacitor and soldered it in. ESC powers up but the led blinks red/beeps every 2 seconds, and the motor jerks slightly when it blinks. Bummer lol

A slow blinking Red is the low voltage cut-off (but no beep) according to the manual. Did you test with charged packs? Also blinking Red with beep can mean it is in throttle calibration mode. There is still hope!

[Mxkid261]

Yes I tested it with charged packs. I guess I try rebinding or something?? I ran it about 5 times before it did this and for around 8-10 minutes and temperatures were never really that hot.

[Mxkid261]

I would like to think that this ESC should be capable of running longer than 5 minutes but maybe Im wrong? I beat the living crap out of my spartan for over a year always on 6s and never had a hiccup up until a month ago so thats why I bought the hobbywing 180, and this was with 10-12 minute runs sometimes 3 sets of packs in a row. I find it hard to believe I wouldnt be able to do the same with a 180a esc but again maybe Im completely wrong.

[domwilson]

Did you remove the older caps before you installed the new ones? Many times when caps blow, they effectively become shorts.

[dmitry100]

domwilson: Can caps ever blow or get screwed up in any way without changing form or getting leaky, etc? I ask because a leg on all 4 of my stock caps on my SF 200A 8s look like they have either burnt and shorted or bent to the point of ripping the legs in half... which I find hard to believe that I could mess them up that badly when repacking/retaping the ESC. Especially since it happened to all 4 of the caps. Though... I resoldered them back-- the ESC works fine and has an additional big cap bank. I noticed this sometime after a meltdown of 2 tp4050 motors... this ESC was the only one without an additional cap bank (the other ESC had the additional one) so I'm starting to think it might actually be a good idea to just replace them with new ones.

[dmitry100]

mxkid261: I have had a similar episode with a Seaking180 ... except the ESC literally blew up and the pressure ripped through the front of the carbon fiber hull blasting into my leg lol. But anyways... my point is that it seemed like it could have been caused by the motor shorting and overheating. These ESC don't seem as bulletproof as people make it seem to be. Perhaps check out your motor and your soldering on the plugs.

[mihelone]

This is the link for the video with the osprey I am talking about with all the mods (replace caps, external bec).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9Zam3OEoac

[Mxkid261]

Domwilson yes I removed all 4 old caps before soldering in 1 new one to bench test. Dmitry that must have been quite the pop LOL. I have a feeling the pos castle motor maybe took it out. I hooked up the vxl-6s and everything powered up as normal.

[domwilson]

domwilson: Can caps ever blow or get screwed up in any way without changing form or getting leaky, etc? I ask because a leg on all 4 of my stock caps on my SF 200A 8s look like they have either burnt and shorted or bent to the point of ripping the legs in half... which I find hard to believe that I could mess them up that badly when repacking/retaping the ESC. Especially since it happened to all 4 of the caps. Though... I resoldered them back-- the ESC works fine and has an additional big cap bank. I noticed this sometime after a meltdown of 2 tp4050 motors... this ESC was the only one without an additional cap bank (the other ESC had the additional one) so I'm starting to think it might actually be a good idea to just replace them with new ones.

Yes. Electrolytic caps can dry out over a period of time or heavy duty cycles. In addition, After you replace the caps with similar or higher values, I would still investigate why they blew in the first place. Perhaps check the drive train for any binding. Your strut adjustments, weak batteries, too long battery wires, etc. These all can contribute to this failure.

[dmitry100]

domwilson: Well, the main reason was that my shocker flipped and the throttle failsafe was not setup correctly since the throttles are set to reverse on that radio... so both of the motors were at full throttle (50k rpm) for like 5 minutes by the time I can get to it... and they melted along with the whole drive lines and tubes. Thankfully the ESC's were fine except for the cap legs on one of them which may or may not be related to the incident. The ESC's were brand new and had no other use before that though.

So better safe than sorry and just replace them then?

[domwilson]

Yes. Even with a cap tester, I still would.

[Jamey]

Hi domwilson, same sea king 180. I thought I had it under control but I noticed my caps get hot at times. Not sure if it driving style or what. Batteries, esc, and motor seem fairly cool but the caps are noticeably hotter. Will not having enough capacitor cause this and would it be beneficial to replace the 2 390uf caps with 1000s? How many would you use and not be overkill? (32" mono, 4092 1480kv 5s & 6s)

[domwilson]

Yes you could try the larger caps. But I would look at why the caps are working so hard. Do you have a different, higher capacity, batteries you can try?
Refresh my memory, What batteries are you using? What size connectors on the battery and motor ends? Can you take a pic of the insides of the boat?

[IRON-PAWW]

Ok. I've got popped caps on my v3 as well. System was running fine with no real heat anywhere and a pretty conservative setup. Just so I'm clear. I can remove the 2 popped caps on the body of the esc and seal off the holes. Then remove the caps on the leads and install a new cap bank, and this *may* fix the esc? Then stop using the internal bec also.

Are the 220 amp swordfish esc's any comparison to the 180v3?

[Jamey]

Iron-paww, I am not sure anyone has been successful yet removing the on board in the v3. I guess unless you are going to pursue warranty you don't have much to lose trying it. The op did remove his but it sounds like his esc is still doa.

Domwilson, for batteries I use series 2s and 3s 7200mah 60c from SMC with ose 6mm bullets. I only use 3000mah to 3400mah after about 4 minutes. On paper I should be okay I think. I have just installed an external BEC with a 1000mah 2s. Curious to see if that helps any. I'll try to get a picture posted.