What have you done to your " BLACKJACK 29" lately?

[Leadfingers]

Only had mine a couple of weeks and so far, I have drilled out the water inlets on the rudder, added larger waterlines and a splitter. raised the strut a tad, upgraded to a OAS flex shaft and put some 6's 50c in. I'm still running the stock prop, but have a Prather 215 and 220 I plan to try on her later today. I am not sure how fast it's going. but scary fast. Can anyone suggest a GPS?....as always, open for your suggestions.

Lead

[shua]

My stock BJv3 was doing 47 on 6s. Other than the OSE upgraded flex it is box stock. On a pair of 40c 5000mAh.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/27/6bc6f88c534374eef69be33cb1b245f0.jpg

The Garmin forerunner 101 is a great little device for clocking speed.

[Airedout29]

very nice .... i reinforced my hull but now feel its too heavy hope i didnt ruin it.. boat still airs out very nice but you can tell its solid going by... ran 44 mph on 6s quick pass stock 1800 motor and esc.... im installing my leopard motor and my seaking 180 esc shortly


i had to reinforce so much due to my crack when i blew over.... the hull split on the sponson but cracked a good 5 inches down the side along the seam..
133675133676133677133678


added about 1.5 lbs to the hull but now its ready for more jam.... seaking 180 esc and a 1600 kv for 6s? whats a solid 6s setup?

[vette 00]

Leadfingers is this the V3 BJ 29? Just curious what you thought of the Prather 215 and 220?

[Leadfingers]

Yes, V3 BJ 29. I have not had a chance to try them yet. I will let you know how they do on the BJ, been running them on a Spartan and it seemed to like the 215 a little better. Ordered a GPS today, then I can tell for sure about the speed. I really like this little cat. it's a fun boat, just a little tight to work on, compared to the Spartan.

[vette 00]

Thanks, my BlackJack showed up 2 weeks ago but not yet christened :( Before I take her to get wet I am waiting for a dual water pickup rudder and have been curious about props. Good luck with everything, keep me/us posted. Thanks.

[shua]

Thanks, my BlackJack showed up 2 weeks ago but not yet christened :( Before I take her to get wet I am waiting for a dual water pickup rudder and have been curious about props. Good luck with everything, keep me/us posted. Thanks.
What dual pickup rudder are you planning to use? I have been thinking about doing the same for mine.

[Leadfingers]

vette, where did you find a duel water pickup rudder? Does it fit the stock rudder mount or do you have to change that also?

[vette 00]

134021 This is what I plan on trying the rudder pictured on this post, it's about 5mm longer than the stock rudder (similar to OSE's "Speedmaster Dual Pickup Tapered Rudder Assembly"). I hate to mess with the original because the black rudder and mounts look nice. But I am going to try this out, I won't be using the mount itself; only the rudder and the bracket/mounting piece for the servo arm. It appears that it will slide into the original mount assuming the pin diameter is the same. Not sure, but I wanted to try this first before adding any additional pickup tubes or inlets.

[Leadfingers]

Let us know how it goes vette. I was going to try the same thing but, when I tried to remove the set screw on the rudder rod it stripped out, not sure if Proboat put Loctite on it or not, but it would not come out. Maybe some other BJ owners will chime in if they have had similar problems........GOOD LUCK !

[Leadfingers]

I tried the prather 215 prop this weekend, running 6's 50c 11.1 after a couple of runs check the temps, the esc and motor leads were hot about 165F.I put back on the stock prop and put the strut back to the factory settings, but still getting hot temps. I have been following a couple of threads and it seems that lots of other folks are having the same issues with heat, trying to run 6's.

The new BJ 29 was advertised as and here is quote, "Water-cooled Dynamite water cooled marine 120 Amp ESC (6S compatible) and 2000Kv brushless motor", so I am a little confused and disappointed that you need to upgrade to 180 esc and better connectors, because the stock 120 esc and 2000 motor are not compatible.
If that is the case, is Proboat guilty of false advertising or am I missing something here? I have over $250 invested in two new lipos and can't run them with out taking a risk of burning everything up.

[shua]

I have been running mine on 6s with a pair of 40c 5000 3s cheap chinese packs and have been fine. Other than an OSE upgraded flex, it is box stock.

I limit my run time, when on 6s, to 3-4 hard minutes. Dont want to overdischarge the batteries.

I read somewhere that some of the first run V3s had the ESC timing set to 15deg. and later Proboat dropped it down to 7.5deg.
You may need to look at that. If yours is set with the higher timing... It could be the primary cause of heat issues

[Leadfingers]

Thanks for the input shua, I will try changing the timing to 7.5 deg and see if that helps.

[waterproof]

Thanks for the input shua, I will try changing the timing to 7.5 deg and see if that helps.

Have you test it yet with 7.5 timing?
I got lower temp but not on the connectors to the motor.
I maby think 22.2v always going to give hot connectors on the motor?
Anyway im not happy with 165-180F so i have bought a new 2s lipo to make 5s.
Same type battery as the 3s, mh and c. Im going to try it with a stock sharpen and balanced prop that i have order to hope i get 45-50mph on 5s if i adjust it right.
V2 also have burn hot motor connectors, i dont think its going to be a lot cooler when you use high voltage. Question is if it have anything to say.
Connectors are very close to the front of the hull.. It rest in the roof of the hull in front.

[Rafael_Lopez]

I tried the prather 215 prop this weekend, running 6's 50c 11.1 after a couple of runs check the temps, the esc and motor leads were hot about 165F.I put back on the stock prop and put the strut back to the factory settings, but still getting hot temps. I have been following a couple of threads and it seems that lots of other folks are having the same issues with heat, trying to run 6's.

The new BJ 29 was advertised as and here is quote, "Water-cooled Dynamite water cooled marine 120 Amp ESC (6S compatible) and 2000Kv brushless motor", so I am a little confused and disappointed that you need to upgrade to 180 esc and better connectors, because the stock 120 esc and 2000 motor are not compatible.
If that is the case, is Proboat guilty of false advertising or am I missing something here? I have over $250 invested in two new lipos and can't run them with out taking a risk of burning everything up.

Hi Leadfingers,

Can you please elaborate on why you feel the 120A ESC and the 2000kv motor are incompatible? Please tell me more about why you are unable to run your boat as advertised.

The connectors getting hot is not something that we, Pro Boat, see as an issue with this boat. Can you please tell me the following about your experience?
1-Is the heat shrink over the connectors deforming, or getting so hot that it splits?
2-Is the heat from the connectors damaging the finish of the hull, where they are tucked under?
3-Is the solder melting and are the connectors coming loose off the wire?
4-Is the ESC going in to thermal shutdown?

I would love to look in to this further if you have some hard data you can share with us that supports the fact that we are making a false claim for this product; the compatibility of the electronics. We don't see someone's opinion of " I don't feel they should be this hot" as a valid reason to re engineer this product.

Keep in mind that brushless RC car motors now days get over 200*,and this is normal, at least for some of our products it is and I can guarantee you that we are not replacing electronics because of this.

I can tell you that amperage wise, the ESC is not even functioning at 80% of it's maximum rated amperage capacity, with high timing.

[vette 00]

Rafeal, I share the same concerns about these temps from the "proboat" electronics as well as many others who use this forum. I didn't see any thread asking "proboat" to re engineer or replace these systems but rather post an observation on a forum used by other modelers that these temps seem excessive. Proboat could have done us all a favor by mentioning these operating temps "motors now days get over 200*" in their user instructions/manuals. FYI - 3rd degree skin burns happen 1 second after exposure to 155 degrees - I would think it would have been mentioned somewhere so that proboat customer/users don't get hurt. Maybe you can tell that I didn't appreciate the manner of your response to a user of this forum let alone one of your customers. I purchased my Blackjack 29 V3 from OSE and if this is the type of response customers can expect back from proboat on proboat products I will gladly take my modeling investments (over $500 on this one alone) elsewhere.

[Leadfingers]

Refeal, I only made two short runs with the 6's and checked the temps, the wires and connectors did not melt, but they were smoking hot. I did not want to take a chance on burning something up so I discontinued the run until I could get more information about the heat issues. I did a couple of searches and found that apparently lots of other BJ owners are having similar problems with the new set up. Here's a link to a thread, that you responded to about some of the same issues, interesting reading!
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2300607 I am just a novice, but some of the guys that responded, seem to know what they were talking about.You have to be aware that this has been an on going problem. Now is a good time to straighten us all out

[Rafael_Lopez]

Vette 00, I apologize if my response offended you, or anyone else. I didnt intend to be disrespectful or offensive towards anyone with my response; text is very one dimentional. I was asking for factual information that supported the idea that we may be misleading people with our product. I personally feel it's fair to ask for information that supports the need for a larger ESC to handle the 2000kv motor on 6s. If a person chooses to upgrade the ESC for piece of mind, it should be justified as that, a want, rather than a need to operate this product.

As far as your concern for burns, that is a valid point. When I made mention to not being concerned about the heat from the connectors, I wasn't referring to the possibility of someone getting injured by them. I was referring to concern for their operation. Customers safety is always our #1 priority. We will look in to this and try and find the best possible solution and explore the use of warning labels.

Leadfingers, I understand your concerns as well. I've been through that thread plenty of times and it seems like it's mostly information based on people's personal feeling on this situation. Some people see the heat as concerning, though everything is operating "normally", nothing is melting, or shutting down. That was the purpose of my bullet points. Customers are very good at contacting us and reporting problems. I will check with Product Suport tomorrow and see how many people have contacted us regarding this concern. Unfortunately there is no criteria for how hot a bullet connector should get. It's obvious that what we feel is acceptable, is not well received by some customers. Each combination of ESC and motor will generate a specific amount of heat based on the design of the hull, relative to operating voltage. My personal feeling due to my years of experience in the fast electric segment of R/C is that temperature depends on the application. I personally have put together plenty of power systems in my boats where the connectors were over 250* and never experienced any issues.

My presence on these forums is by choice, because I'm passionate about our products and the hobby, in general. Some facts that I've chosen to share with customers has been passed off as a political smoke screen for the company I represent. I'm ok with that, I don't take it personal. All I'm trying to do is put our customer's mind at ease by pointing out that this concern is normal during this products operation.

[waterproof]

Rafael, i understand you about that, it works and it have not burned up.
Would be worse if the esc burned up because of this but everyone are just affraid when they touch so hot wires.
Boat works and run fast and stabile on 6s if you look away from the hot motor wires.

I also think the boat should be programmed to 7.5 out of the box so the beginners that dosnt know anything about boats not get so mutch heat after a run.

But we get concerned when the wires is so hot that you burn your fingers when you hold them for 3 seconds.
Absolutley a great boat and i think this is the best rtr boat on the marked!
Solid and more layers of fiberglass.
Very stabile, you realy get mutch more for the money.

Like i said only concern is the hot motor wire, and when you say they could be hot on the high voltage its fine.

The wires rest on the roof inside the hull, i have not get melt marks but im affraid to get it.
I think that is maby the only issue i could see here with hot wires inside the fiberglass hull?

[shua]

My presence on these forums is by choice, because I'm passionate about our products and the hobby, in general.

I am greatful that you are here, and spending your own personal time to try to help out and further the "fun factor" for us all

THANK YOU Rafael!:buttrock:

My BJ29v3 is doing well on 6s. Temps are in line as far as I am concerned.

The key for me on Temps is NOT running the boat until the battery packs hit LVC. I will do some mixture of sport and aggressive driving while using a timer to find how long is long enough. Pushing the batteries down close to or all the way down to LVC, for me, causes excessive heat and other problems. Once I find that threshold of time... I reduce it by a minute and then I know how long I have to really drop the hammer, yet not overstress the batteries or electronics.

[Leadfingers]

I finely had a little time to get the BJ out for a test run. I lowered the timing to 7.5. and was hoping this would help with the hot wire temps. After a couple of short passes, I brought her back in and to my disappointment found the timing adjustment didn't help.
The motor connectors were 185F, and esc connectors about the same, "HOT" !
I really like the BJ 29, it handles well and hit 51mph, running 6's, a fun little boat, but I am very disappointed that I can't run the 6's, as advertised, without dealing with what I feel (and many others) are excessive temps. I am sure Proboat will say, as long as nothing melted, caught fire or shutdown, it's okay and not a problem, but for me and apparently lots of other BJ owners it is a problem. After reading several threads relating to this issue, I have decided to upgrade the esc and ordered a seeking 180 from OSE today and hope that helps lower the temps, will keep you posted. Thanks to OAS for this forum and to those who responded.

Leadfingers

[vette 00]

Thanks for the update Leadfingers. If the 180 esc works for you I will be doing the same as I am not a fan of those temps on a water cooled boat.

[waterproof]

I finely had a little time to get the BJ out for a test run. I lowered the timing to 7.5. and was hoping this would help with the hot wire temps. After a couple of short passes, I brought her back in and to my disappointment found the timing adjustment didn't help.
The motor connectors were 185F, and esc connectors about the same, "HOT" !
I really like the BJ 29, it handles well and hit 51mph, running 6's, a fun little boat, but I am very disappointed that I can't run the 6's, as advertised, without dealing with what I feel (and many others) are excessive temps. I am sure Proboat will say, as long as nothing melted, caught fire or shutdown, it's okay and not a problem, but for me and apparently lots of other BJ owners it is a problem. After reading several threads relating to this issue, I have decided to upgrade the esc and ordered a seeking 180 from OSE today and hope that helps lower the temps, will keep you posted. Thanks to OAS for this forum and to those who responded.

Leadfingers

What was the lipo temp and what type of lipo do you use?
This is the same experience that i have when i tried 7.5 timing. Same tempratures.
I guess everybody got the high temp, its a lot of people that is not on a forum to share, and many do not check temp on the wires after use and just run it and put it back of the car.

I understand you, i feel it the same way. OK the connectors is hot, but i do not want to risk any melt on the hull, and i dont want to risk the esc to be in fire eighter.

You are going to try the 180A seaking with stock motor first?
Very excited, when do you get it?
Give us a report in this thread :-)

What if we lower the timing to 3.5? Or even lower?

[Leadfingers]

I'm going to try the 180 esc with the stock motor first and see how that works, but I also ordered a 3674/1900k motor as a back up. If the new esc doesn't bring the temps down, I plan to add it later. Thanks again to Steven at OSE for taking time to help.

[waterproof]

Today i got new cooling line so i change them out, its same size like stock but i put it on the esc first and so on the motor and exit, think that would help a bit on esc temp.
Anyone other that runs the water trough the esc first ?
It was water to the esc on v2.

134489

[vette 00]

I am starting to think that the BJ3 could use 3 water pick ups, one for the motor, one for the esc and one for the connectors.
I did just receive my new rudder with dual pick ups and hope to get it painted and installed sometime in the near future. I am hoping that a separate fresh water line will help keep the esc a little cooler.

[Mxkid261]

If I were you I would remove the 2 caps/diode in the SK-180 battery wires and install a nice cap bank. I burned up a new v3 SK-180 and I think it would have held up had I installed a nice cap bank. The caps are way to small IMO. One of the caps in the wires literally split all the way down one side of it.

[Leadfingers]

vette, I spit the lines just inside the boat; near the transom and ran separate water lines to the esc and motor, that way each component is getting fresh cool water. I also have them to exit on opposite sides of the boat.....that way you can tell if the esc and motor are getting good water flow.

Mx thanks, will keep that in mind and I thought I was getting one of the best esc's out there. why does everything have to be upgraded to work properly?

[waterproof]

Leadfingers, do you loose some of the pressure/speed of the waterflow when you use a splittet adapter?
It is stupid that everything need upgrades, but i have read good thing about the seaking 180A.

I got my esc colder just to add a longer line in to the esc so it get the water first and the motor get it last.
Temp on esc capitors is 10c lower, and the esc about 5c lower.
Esc cap 45c
Motor connectors 55-60
Ec5 45-55
This is on 5s. But i think i maby would try 6s tomorrow and check the temps, maby a little colder esc would help just a bit on the motor connectors, maby not?

I like it on 6s, heavy batteries and it super stabile.
That was the reason for i bought it.
Very excited about what your temp will be with stock motor and 180A esc.
Are you going to use stock 5.5 connectors on the motor?

[Leadfingers]

I drilled out the rudder inlets and the outlet on top to make them larger, along with a larger water lines and the splitter, not sure about pressure but it did increase the volume of water. I like having the water coming out on both sides of the boat, easer to see. I am going to try the stock connectors first and see how they do, upgrade later if need be.

[waterproof]

I drilled out the rudder inlets and the outlet on top to make them larger, along with a larger water lines and the splitter, not sure about pressure but it did increase the volume of water. I like having the water coming out on both sides of the boat, easer to see. I am going to try the stock connectors first and see how they do, upgrade later if need be.

Ok, Sounds like a great upgrade!
How is your strut adjusted?
I maby think that the boat would use less amp if it in stock posission?
Stock was the top of the strut plate goes in the same line as the top of the rudder mount..

Have read about that now, and my first stock run on 6s gave me good temp, but i saw it looks like it run to wet or have the strut to long negative since anyone says theas 29 proboat cat like the strut to be about 1-2mm over the rear of the sponsons..

[Mxkid261]

The caps are just too small on it mine got pretty hot a couple times before they went.

[Mxkid261]

Put it this way I regret not just ponying up and getting the swordfish pro+ right away Lol

[waterproof]

Today i tried 6s and im happy with the temp! But i think it should run a bit faster.
I took the strut back to the stock posission, also lower it a bit vs have the strut flat on a table with the sponsons.
Its about 1/8" or 3mm lower than when its flat with the rear sponsons and sure this help a lot to the motor connectors.
This was the issue and the stock timing on 15, the boat runs cooler on 6s vs 5s with higher strut!
Always run 7.5 timing.

Temp on 6s after 3 min:
Motor cable 55c
Esc 55c
Esc capitors 50c
Lipo 28c
Motor 40c
Battery connectors 47c

After this 3 minutes i run it again for 4 minutes:
Motor connectors 55-60c
Esc capitors 52
Esc 50-55c
Lipo 38c

My thought is that the small upgrade as changing the directions of cooling lines, timing 7.5 and stock strut posission make it mutch safer to run on 6s, but i see that it could run faster, if i raise the strut from stock the heat will come.
Any tip to make it run light and easy without raising the strut from stock?
Lipo 5200 3s was almost at rear but i could put them littlebit longer back.

[Leadfingers]

Sounds good, waterproof.....we will get it figured out sooner or later. I tried to run mine yesterday with the strut set back to factory settings and stripped the collet, I had the updated flex shaft, but new Aeromarine collet I got was to long and I can't use it without moving the motor back or cutting off the stuffing tube and flex shaft and I'm not sure about doing either.....................any advice? I tried to order the short collet, but they are out of stock at OSE.
Interesting thread below on the water pressure/flow thing. I learn something new everyday about this hobby, that's what makes it fun and interesting.......anyway I'm down and out until I can fix the flex connector.

Mxkid, thanks for the info on the cap banks......looking forward to seeing your new build complete, good job!

[waterproof]

You could try to cut the shaft or get someone to do it for you.
Can you use the stock flex system?

I have run it 4 more times and it still work, but the yellow motor connectors was little hot the last time.
Have used it 8 times total on 6s now.

Just wait for my stock balanced and sharpen prop arrive from rcchiefhobbies.
Looking forward to see how it goes with your boat with 180A esc and stock motor.
Sure it works now, but i want to adjust the strut in every posission and not get very hot connectors.

I also change out the cooling lines the same time as i set the strut to stock posission, but the cooling line change dosnt help so mutch on the connectors?
Could just raise the strut and try again but im affraid to burn something, have you check the temps after you set the strut back to stock posission vs raising it a bit?

What is your experience with the battery posissions on stock strut posission?
The 5200mh 3s all way back and it runs fast, but its bump a bit. Not very mutch and it have never blow over yet. Want littlebit less bumping before im happy and its not easy to eliminate it.

[Leadfingers]

When I did the waterline upgrade, I used the small ID tubing on the exit lines from the motor and ecs, so it would keep some pressure on them, but you are right not much help, heat wise, with the connectors. I guess the stock electronics are going to run HOT 185F +if you keep them.

If I shorten the tube, I would have to shorten the flex shaft also. just not sure if this is a good move or not, in order to use the larger collet..............anyway the BJ is down for now, hope to get her up and going again next week.
Just keep playing with the battery placement, you will find a happy spot......good luck with the new props, keep us posted.

[waterproof]

Yes sure :-)

Many buy a raw flex and cut it to the lenght they want, i dont know how you could do it.
But if you get the parts soon its more easy to just wait :)

What type of lipo do you use? I maby want to change mine out for some dinogy 65-120C, just to see if it get more power.

The speed is ok, i dont have gps but its around 45-50mph i think, on the YouTube videos it not looks like mine is slower than 45-50, would be nice to have a gps.
If the 180A esc keep it colder i will order it, are you going to upgrade the seaking v3? Or would it be fine stock from offshoreelectrics?

What do you think about fan cooling on a rc boat?

Could use a castle motor fan on the wires or esc, easy to plug it in to the rx, but i have never seen that before on a boat. This is just an idea and maby someone in here know more about that will help or not.
Tfl hobby also have cooling plate for esc, could mount the wires around the cooling plate maby.
Would have been nice with two water pickup but i dont want to drill a hole in the hull.

[Brewbud]

For those of you with hot connectors -what connectors are you using? The stock connectors do get hot. It is just a function of physics. High current with resistance = high temp. You could try switching out to 6mm or larger bullets. They have less resistance so will run a little cooler. In turn it will help the whole system.

Edit: Just realized this is v3. What are stock batt connectors on v3?

[waterproof]

Stock battery connectors is ec5.
They work fine for me without getting to hot.

I dont know if it worth the job to change out 6 connectors to 6 since it just littlebit bigger than stock.
Would maby help a bit but the version 2 had almost the halv of size and they also get the same hot temprature.

I have run it many times now on 6s after i set the strut to stock posission and that helps on the connectors.

Now i have take a empty coolingline around them so they dont hit the roof inside the hull and so they not are too close so they get alone, think that also help so they dont lead the temp or collecting temp.

[waterproof]

I got help from Chief in here to sharpen and balance a new stock prop, thank you Chief :-) Very happy for your help.
The prop arrived just after one week, i must say wow what a difference!!
It almost run smooth even i had the batteries all way back, before i must have them almost at the front to not get it to bounce very fast, i think it give more torque, and maby 3-4 more mph.
It is a must to give your stock prop a good work! It was very different to drive it vs a stock prop out of the box.
Now it jumps more perfect and i like the way it handles.

Im still run 6s for around 6 minutes with mixed trottle.
The esc got a few less degrees after i got the new prop, but the water was also little colder.
Motor connectors is around 55-60c but the black one reach 80c on todays run.
Maby going to order a seaking 180A but om not sure.
Have you got your new esc yet leadfingers?

Could also get a 1500kv proboat motor.
Anyone that know how the speed would be with v2 1500kv vs stock 2000kv motor?
It do works today but i like to be more safe..

[Gopherboy6956]

Hey Guys - Sorry to jump in to this thread - But I wanted to see where the best place to sell my Blackjack 29 might be? I have a MG29 and a Shockwave, and I just don't need three boats. Any help or pointers would be awesome. I looked in the FE main list and didn't see and FS/WTB threads.

Thanks!

[Gopherboy6956]

Hey Guys - Sorry to jump in to this thread - But I wanted to see where the best place to sell my Blackjack 29 might be? I have a MG29 and a Shockwave, and I just don't need three boats. Any help or pointers would be awesome. I looked in the FE main list and didn't see and FS/WTB threads.

Thanks!

Sorry - I eventually figured it out! - http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?52338-Proboat-Blackjack-29-for-sale

[Pedro Ramos]

134994134995

i used to run my bj3 on 6s all the time, never had a problem, I just lower the timing on the motor and do not run the batteries to death, I believes that is the problem with all you folks, set a timer on your radio or your cell for around 8 minutes and problem gone.

[waterproof]

Yes, timing on 7.5 helps on everything.
What timing do you use?

I got 77kph/47,8mph on a gps today, was a bit Wind and not flat water.
Hope to reach 80kph next time.

This speeds is with this setup:

Strut in stock posission
Timing 7.5
Sharpen and balance stock prop from Chief in here (it is a must and give you a few mph and mutch better handling)
5000mh 3s 35c lipo almost at rear in the battery tray, could only get a finger between the battery and rear of the tray.

Water temp was only 14.5C and everything runs cold, low temp even on the motor connectors.

Is it other here that have a gps and could tell the setup on the boat? :)

[TheShaughnessy]

What is the logic behind thinking a 180 amp esc will make the connectors on the motor be cooler than a 120 amp esc?

[waterproof]

Todays run i hit 79km/49mph on stock setup with s/b stock prop and the strut is still in stock posission.
Have now run it about 15 times on 6s and i have good temps on esc and motor, the motor connections have sometimes 60c and other times 80c, it realy works just fine on 6s if you just have 7.5 timing and stock posission on the strut, if you raise it you will get hot electronics.

Any other in here with stock blackjack/ miss geico with a gps that could tell the setup and speed? :-)

Now i want more speed but i also understand this is around maximum speed in this size of hull.
I maby want to try a x440 octura s/b how will this be vs the stock? Is the stock prop also 1.4 pitch?
It seems like my 35c goes a bit faster the first minute on a full charged battery than rest of the runtime..

[captain kirk]

in my BJ v2 I installed an os 150a esc and a 3674 2200kv motor and an x642 s&b prop on 4s 5000mah 50c hoping for around 50mph

[Pedro Ramos]

142845
i run 440/3 with a leo 3674 1900kv with a turnigy 180a with timing set at 3.75, OSE strut and .187 OSE shaft, on 6s runs low 60's all day long with temps no more that 130 degrees. I'm very happy with it!!! :thumbup1:

[dtacmed]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZoCHt49sIg Leopard 4082 2000 kv, Seaking 180 esc timing at 3.75. X642 S&B Prop on 4 s

[Erroneous]

149749 Allmost done. Turnigy180, Poseidon1515 2200kv, Revo 5000mah hv gopacks, ABC 1615-17 prop. Still need to blueprint the sponsons but want to run it first.

[Ken Love]

I bought my BJ29 back in November 2016 and have never had any issues with heat on 6S. The only problem was after a couple of months wanted more speed so I bought a Zelos 36 Twin that is an absolute blast. Since I have boat to play with I decided to upgrade the power a bit. I've only made the motor mount and the speed control/servo/radio mount so far out of 3mm and 2mm CF plate. I have a laundry list of other upgrades to go. I've only been into RC boats for a about 6 months and advice would be helpful. I do plan on cooling system mods and hull blueprinting/refinishing also.

Here are a few pics

151931
151930
151929

[Leadfingers]

Great looking work, keep us posted .

[fweasel]

Looks great. That Voracity motor is going to scream, but I wonder if you're going to need to run your batteries further back than the trays allow to compensate for the heavier motor.

[Ken Love]

I played with the CG when I was laying out the components, putting the esc behind the motor instead of in front kept the CG real close to stock with the batteries in the middle I hope to have enough adjustment when I get done. I also slotted the motor mount to allow some adjustment there also. Here are the planed upgrades:

1. Finish coat the inside of the hull with a coat of West Systems 105 dyed black.
2. Replace factory flotation in the front of the hull with a 2 part pour in expanding foam. (this along with the epoxy should make the hull stronger, i hope)
3. 187 flex cable
4. Rudder with dual water outlets and an overhaul of the cooling system.
5. Blueprint and refinish hull.
6. Props - I have a CNC 1.6 de-tongued in 42.44.46 and 48 mm's to start.
7. Throw in a Futaba receiver.

Again any suggestions are welcome

[TheShaughnessy]

an epoxy coating by it self will add more weight than extra strength. If you do any damage to the front half of the hull it will be nearly impossible to make a repair with the 2 part foam in there.

[Ken Love]

an epoxy coating by it self will add more weight than extra strength. If you do any damage to the front half of the hull it will be nearly impossible to make a repair with the 2 part foam in there.

Good Point - If this anything like my other R/C habits there will probably be damage.

[Mxkid261]

Looking good. Interested to see it run, should rip with that combo. I like pool noodles instead of the foam. If they ever need to come out its easier than 2 part foam lol

[Ken Love]

154198
Finally got a chance to do the CF inlay on the hull and mock up the internals. After hull blueprint and paint and I hope to get it on the water before it gets to cold, work seems to find a way of getting in the way of projects like this.