Repair Hobbywing Seaking T180???

[78MaicoRider]

I need to repair or replace the ESC in my recently completed 29" Sprint Cat. Seems they don't like HV operation. I have 2 sets of Lipos for the boat. 1 set 5200mah 3s 45C to run in series. Another set 2600mah 6s 45C to run in parallel. Well, the first time to the lake but second test run I put the two 6s packs in and plugged them in (You guessed it) in series. One huge snap and spark and my new T180 with custom cap bank built from DrWayne's instructions.... now most likely scrap. I haven't got the set up sorted out yet let alone painted or put any cosmetic touches on the boat. First run it was a dog. (SC 6S 4082 1800kv T180 M445) About half as fast as my Apparition (4S 3740 2000kv mystery 200A Prather 215) and it's running on 4S.

Does anyone have experience repairing these? Is there a component that would act as a fuse that would blow and prevent damage to the rest of the ESC?

[montymike]

So turnigy t180? Contact manufacturer, i know seaking repair don't know aboat turnigy.fyi. in future ir u get one from o.s.e steven is good aboat
helping out i like the new seaking 180 better.
1 reconsider ur packs , when i went to 50+ c battery 4500+c rating big amp draw problems went away.

[78MaicoRider]

It is a seaking. I thought they were the same. They look like only the name is changed. I bought this one from a fellow member here. It was unused and a good deal. Need to support Steven and our fellow Members!

[montymike]

Hobywing might be able to repair it but at cost to u. Have to send in.

[gsbuickman]

Thats gonna be a smokin' setup in the sprint kitty when you get her dialed in (1800kv, t180, m455 & 6s) . Jorn Marlset runs the same setup in his sprint kitty, and also with a 2000kv mill and it's squirrely insane. I also ran a 29" mean machine (basically the same hull) with 2350kv, m455 & 5000 45c 5s power. That thing was also gonzo fast.

As you start to get her dialed in you'll start spinning out. You'll need a longer rudder. I quit spinning out once my rudder was hanging 3" below the transom. The angle of the Sprint kitties tunnel is a little bit different so you might have to play with the length of the rudder blade a touch :biggrin: .

[78MaicoRider]

Thats gonna be a smokin' setup in the sprint kitty when you get her dialed in (1800kv, t180, m455 & 6s) . Jorn Marlset runs the same setup in his sprint kitty, and also with a 2000kv mill and it's squirrely insane. I also ran a 29" mean machine (basically the same hull) with 2350kv, m455 & 5000 45c 5s power. That thing was also gonzo fast.

As you start to get her dialed in you'll start spinning out. You'll need a longer rudder. I quit spinning out once my rudder was hanging 3" below the transom. The angle of the Sprint kitties tunnel is a little bit different so you might have to play with the length of the rudder blade a touch :biggrin: .

I don't think it will be spinning out much. In fact rudder length (drag) may be one reason for the slow speed. I will be cutting an inch or so. Right now it's about 4.5 inches below the ride pads. 133499133500 When I bought this it had sat almost new in the box for 14 years intended for a nitro engine. Just stuffing tube installed. So the 4082 sits farther forward than most. But it gives a real gradual bend to the driveline. And CG is 30-32%.

[gsbuickman]

Holy smokes :w00t: . That rudder is way too long and definitely creating too much drag. Rather than cutting the rudder down make a new blade for it if possible. I quit spinning out at 3", but I called it good at 3.25" below the ride pads. Set your cog @ 30% (9.75") from the rear transom. Don't change the prop either, it doesn't get any better than the m455 for your Sprint kitty or the mean machine.

[tlandauer]

I am not familiar with this hull, the Mean Machine needs a long rudder in order not to spin out. You may be able to cut yours shorter but don't cut so much at a time. Do it in increments.
To try out for the correct length is sometimes an expensive endeavor. You cut little by little until it starts to spin out or to have difficulties to turn , then back off to the previous point. Therefore you need to have a new rudder. I don't think it's necessary for you to go thru this ritual so go easy.
My take on the ESC is that it may not be practical to have Hobbywing to repair it for you considering the expense that might be involved. Not trying to tell you what to do but just don't expect too much.
Cheers.

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

[tlandauer]

The rudder does give drag, but it doesn't account for all the slow speed you observed. You need to tune the strut more and from the pic. in my opinion it is positioned too low and too much positive attitude. If this is similar to the Mean machine hull then the bottom of strut should be close to 3/16" or in some cases more above your flat table surface.

[montymike]

Strut 1/8 inch above sponsons slightly negative angle.

[tlandauer]

Strut 1/8 inch above sponsons slightly negative angle.

^^^^
What the man said!:thumbup1:

[kevinpratt823]

Is that a series of typos, or are you guys really talking about a m455 prop? Are you sure you don't mean a 445 or a 545? A 55 mm prop is huge for that boat with those rpm's........

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[montymike]

Is that a series of typos, or are you guys really talking about a m455 prop? Are you sure you don't mean a 445 or a 545? A 55 mm prop is huge for that boat with those rpm's........

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Yeah agree m445 m545

[oscarel]

I need to repair or replace the ESC in my recently completed 29" Sprint Cat. Seems they don't like HV operation. I have 2 sets of Lipos for the boat. 1 set 5200mah 3s 45C to run in series. Another set 2600mah 6s 45C to run in parallel. Well, the first time to the lake but second test run I put the two 6s packs in and plugged them in (You guessed it) in series. One huge snap and spark and my new T180 with custom cap bank built from DrWayne's instructions.... now most likely scrap. I haven't got the set up sorted out yet let alone painted or put any cosmetic touches on the boat. First run it was a dog. (SC 6S 4082 1800kv T180 M445) About half as fast as my Apparition (4S 3740 2000kv mystery 200A Prather 215) and it's running on 4S.

Does anyone have experience repairing these? Is there a component that would act as a fuse that would blow and prevent damage to the rest of the ESC?

It's possible the caps are the only thing that need replacing. Try swapping out the onboard ones and see if it works. Make sure to use a motor and lipo's you don't need and do it way out in the open and not in your boat.

[78MaicoRider]

I connected the other set of batteries properly and nothing. No spark on connection and no response from ESC. It just lays there. So something blew and went open. I run a separate battery pack for receiver so I don't know if BEC is dead or not. This could make a interesting dissection. Maybe later I'll open it up and find out what damage was inflicted. If it was just the caps, I would have gotten a response from the ESC or a hellava spark on connection. The caps would have gone to a short or open. The caps charging is what causes the spark when connecting Lipos. I ordered a Hobbyking T180 from east USA warehouse $89 with shipping. Linger a bit when on the page and wait for the discount before ordering if you want one at this price. They have a dozen in stock. West USA warehouse is zero stock. This ESC even has a waterproof on off switch so you can connect and seal up hatch then turn on.

[78MaicoRider]

Is that a series of typos, or are you guys really talking about a m455 prop? Are you sure you don't mean a 445 or a 545? A 55 mm prop is huge for that boat with those rpm's........

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

It is M445 as I said "(SC 6S 4082 1800kv T180 M445)" I have a M545 for it as well.

[785boats]

I've had ESC's that stopped working & the only problem was the caps had gone open circuit. Replaced the caps & the ESC worked again.

[78MaicoRider]

Strut 1/8 inch above sponsons slightly negative angle.

The strut is even with the ride pads and as high as it will go with this prop. I will need to machine some clearance to raise higher. This strut is also massive. It could easily be bored for a 1/4 driveshaft and bushings. The walls so thick I was thinking of boring it for 3/16 sealed ball bearings. (Ball bearing O.D. larger than bushing O.D. for same I.D.) Thicker walled than any other 3/16 drive I have. So what I am saying is, at level with ride pads the centerline of the shaft is about the same as other struts set 1/16 to 1/8 above the ride pads.

[oscarel]

If it was just the caps, I would have gotten a response from the ESC or a hellava spark on connection. The caps would have gone to a short or open. The caps charging is what causes the spark when connecting Lipos.

Not necessarily true. Blown caps normally cause an open and there would be nothing to charge so no spark. Replace with a couple cheap ones so you're only out a few bucks if it doesn't work.

[78MaicoRider]

Not necessarily true. Blown caps normally cause an open and there would be nothing to charge so no spark. Replace with a couple cheap ones so you're only out a few bucks if it doesn't work.

True. And there wasn't a spark when I tried it again. An open cap would not prevent the ESC from reacting in some way. At least that's what I believe. Unless there is a analog circuit (R/C time constant) on the input necessary for operation. But that would be sensitive to changes in capacitance on the input. Which isn't the case.

[montymike]

Less of :frusty:Might be worth buying a new e.s.c. so can get boat running right, so the boats not down and use the other one as a backup when u get it fixed. Just my 1.5 cents after taxes

[78MaicoRider]

Less of :frusty:Might be worth buying a new e.s.c. so can get boat running right, so the boats not down and use the other one as a backup when u get it fixed. Just my 1.5 cents after taxes

You mean 1 cent after taxes!!!!!

[78MaicoRider]

I plugged a 6s pack in again. Got a normal cap charging spark. Hmmm. All caps look ok. Unplugged and checked with voltmeter, 24.1 volts. Caps charge and holding. No bleed off by ESC. No voltage on BEC output. Looks like something blew open circuit right at the input. There maybe a chance of fixing this. Maybe just a trace on PCB fried that can be repaired with a piece of wire. I'll dig in and keep you posted.