Impulse 31 V2 Won't Run - Noob Needs Help

[Rufnek100]

Hey all, complete noob here and have a problem with my boat. I haven't run it in quite a while, but when I went to get it set up it the motor won't turn beyond "idle" (for lack of a better term). Thinking I let everything sit too long (probably over a year) I replaced the batteries with the exact same type the LHS sold me with the boat: two Venom 3S 5000mAh 35C packs. And it's still doing the same thing: when I have it on the stand and everything turned on, the rudder operates properly but when I squeeze the throttle trigger on the transmitter the motor turns very slowly (and loudly) - it almost sounds like a machine gun if that makes sense. I disconnected the driveshaft thinking maybe it was bound up (the driveshaft was greased and turned freely), but the motor still turns the same way with no load.

I apologize in advance for my complete lack of knowledge in this hobby - I'm not a serious racer or anything, but it was a rather considerable investment and I had a lot of fun with it when it ran, so I'd like for it be more than a conversation piece sitting on the stand. Speaking of which, it was running just fine the last time I used it.

The setup is bone stock out of the box (RTR, right?!?) - I've read about the issues with 6S and the 80A ESC / 1800 kV motor configuration, is this the problem? Nothing appears to be melted or overheated that I can visually see.

I don't mind doing some replacements / upgrades if that's what it takes, but I'd sure like to feel confident that I'm addressing the problem. Can someone help me troubleshoot this? Or maybe Horizon will make this right since it appears to be a known problem? I was planning on taking it back to the LHS and letting them fix it, but I'm kind of a DIY guy and would like to know what the problem is too. Thanks!

[G-UNIT]

Sounds like a motor wire joint came loose, check your wires to esc, a soulder connection came loose.
also 6s is to much for the stock esc best to go with a 180 esc.

[Rufnek100]

Thanks Gunit - I checked and they appear to be ok as far as I can tell. I unhooked all three motor wires and they had continuity with each other on the motor side. Not sure of the internals on the esc side if a continuity check will work, though. Hooked everything back up and it's still doing the same thing. It will chatter, turn slowly, and then beep (fully charged batteries). For the 4-5 sec it turns the motor heats up, not too hot to hold but definitely warm to the touch.

Is there a way to check the esc leads - they disappear into the unit so I'm not sure how to tell.

[Doby]

Continuity des not mean the solder joints are good. When they are placed under a load (like applying the throttle) they can be intermittent enough to cause what you are experiencing...we call it "cogging".

Take them apart and re-solder them all. Sometimes the heatshrink alone can keep a solder joint "together" enough to show continuity but fail under load.

[Rufnek100]

Thanks for the insight - I'll deconstruct the joints and resolder them next. Once I can get it back to the land of the living, I'm going to take the upgrades under advisement and see what I can do to avoid future problems. Thanks again!