Best ways of *completely* waterproofing Swordfish ESC?

[dmitry100]

Hi guys,

I just bought a Swordfish Pro+ 200A 8s. To my surprise its not exactly completely waterproof, but just "water resistant"... figured it would be for the money being a marine ESC and all. Probably would cost the manufacturer next to nothing to do it properly at the factory... I don't get it.

So, What would be the *best* way possible to waterproof this thing completely?

I read a tutorial about using "3M Scotch-Weld Epoxy Potting Compound DP270 Clear" to do it. >> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X5G6O6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
But I want to make sure this thing is 100% bulletproof when it comes to water-- No build up of moisture, no nothing... even if it ends up underwater for an hour :)

This is what I have on hand:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/596x795q90/540/dGM6bw.jpg (http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/596x795q90/540/dGM6bw.jpg)

Will the Plasti Dip and Silicon be suitable for this? Or should I just go ahead and buy/use that 3M Epoxy Plotting compound... and then wrap it up with the waterproof fuse tape. Since I don't have a heat gun... I was thinking to put the original wrap back on somehow since I want the SF sticker intact. How should I put it back together without needing a new heat shrink for it?

Also, is this the newest Swordfish version of the 200A 8S? Just want to make theres no V2's of this around.

Thanks!
Dmitry.

[ray schrauwen]

About the sticker... I just cut off the whole shrink wrap and cut the sticker off to glue on top after it's all done.

This is a picture of my mods to this esc. I prefer to stick with DP270 and non-conductive Arctic Silver to mount new heat sinks on it.

[Norwest]

Ray thinks I'm messy! Sorry for posting on this site.

[ray schrauwen]

I understand Corrosion X but, that stuff is really messy. I use it in my motors...

[dmitry100]

Should I put on a final layer of heat shrink on it after putting the Fuse tape once the DP270 dries ... to make it look clean and fast, or would that be overkill? :) Any ideas where I can get heat strink that is big enough for this ESC?

I figure a final heat shrink would keep the DP270 layer and fuse tape snug together to avoid any potential leaks or tape pealing off.

[dmitry100]

Ray, is the stock heat sinks not enough or does it run hot without some extra ones?

[Norwest]

Ray, messy, not at all, to each his own and i'll erase my posting if it offends you. Better yet i'll quit posting.

[ray schrauwen]

Try it first dmitry, just don't push it on your first run, make it short and check heat. It depends on what you run it in and how hard you run it, try it stock first. I run mine in a heavy 36" Whiplash sport hydro with a huge 4070 TP power motor, 6S2P 8800Mah total, it's a pig.

Norwest, no problem my friend, You don't need to stop posting. Corrosion X works great for some people, I just think the stuff can be messy is all. I like dry clean boats as best as I can make them :hug1:

[ray schrauwen]

BTW, the heat sink material is actually or originally designed as a battery cooling tray from a TFL Kit that was given to me by Doby my friend.

I haven't actually water proofed this esc shown since it runs in a dry boat. It has some clear conformal coating on it from factory. The killer is getting the driver board soaked but, mainly the interface connection between the boards.. The interface on these is hard to see unless it's opened up.
What are you running it in?

[dmitry100]

Have any of you guys tried adding a layer on top of the heatsink plate using a Steelstik with the Arctic Silver or any similar steel-based epoxy? Hoping it would actually transfer heat... I guess I'll maybe give it a shot :)

[Luck as a Constant]

i was curious about this, as i also have the 220. the best method for me has been to keep the inside of the boat dry, but ill be watching to see what you do.

[dmitry100]

I'm thinking to give it a test ... submerged in water once its done... but only maybe if Steven gives me a discount for a new one if it does go up in flames. :)

[srislash]

I'm thinking to give it a test ... submerged in water once its done... but only maybe if Steven gives me a discount for a new one if it does go up in flames. :)

Just do your best to keep the boat dry and do all god ideas in waterproofing all electronics. I have had more issues with wet Rx's than ESC's.

And a couple tips, BE VERY CAREFUL WITH BATTERY LEADS IF THE HULL IS CF, and if you submerge the boat(soak the inside) don't run again. Don't even 'pull the trigger'. Disconnect and put away for a few days.

Just sound advice from experience, Shawn

[dmitry100]

Well you probably saved me a hull down the line :P

Does the wet carbon fiber create a short?

[srislash]

Well you probably saved me a hull down the line :P

Does the wet carbon fiber create a short?

Carbon fiber is a VERY good conductor of electricity. This is why they make spark plug wires out of it for automotive industry. It takes a decent layer of epoxy over the CF to form insulation.

[dmitry100]

Here is my progress on waterproofing the ESC so far:

I'm using Marine Epoxy and filling the inside of the ESC with Silicon... Its kind of hard to get it to go inside (between the 2 boards) since silicon is sticky but I tried my best to squeeze as much of it in there as I can. I gave the silicon a coat of epoxy as well... just to make sure its air tight in there. I think it'll hold up quite well!

I'm ordering some plate of aluminium on amazon... perhaps something 3x thicker than the original plate at a slight longer size.
Perhaps it would help to wrap the edges of the aluminum plate down so that its long enough to have direct contact with the cooling lines.

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