Shockwave 26 Repower/Improvements

[Tamelesstgr]

Hey everyone, I started updates in another thread, so I wanted to start my own build thread. Backstory is that I bought this for my son last summer. Learned a bit about batteries (one dead on arrival from Proboat/Dynamite). Was pretty fun running it during the summer, fast enough not to get into too much trouble, and about 8-9 minutes of run time with the stock bruched motor and 8.4v nimh 5000mah pack.

This year my dad bought a PB Blackjack 29 and will be running 4S, then my uncle picked up a nearly new SV27 and he will be running 12 cells nimh, so we obviously needed up step up our game with the SW26!

Thanks to Bruce on the board we are set up with a 3000kv brushless motor and ESC to run a single 8.4v nimh 5000mah pack. I wanted to address some hull issues so I ordered Kintec 2 part foam to add some flotation. I need to fix some transom cracks with Epoxy and get her painted. We came up with the name Slingshot since we want to try and hang with the big boys.

130789130790130791

[Tamelesstgr]

Pics of the Foam I did this past weekend, and the initial concept for paint layout.

130792130793

[Tamelesstgr]

Transom cracks, and I need to add some epoxy to the sides of the inner / outer hull since the white bond was brittle and was removed.

130805130806130794130795130796

[Tamelesstgr]

My custom made engine cover from a toy car hood scoop. I just started cutting and figured out something that worked.

130797130798130799130800130801

[Tamelesstgr]

Mock up of the new power, I want to add some fiberglass cloth and epoxy near the motor mount. I also need to bend up a metal servo bracket since the plastic flimsy one broke on me.

130802130803130804

[Tamelesstgr]

Added some more epoxy last night, still need to tackle the other side and the transom.

130859130860

[Tamelesstgr]

Does anyone have any tricks for getting a nice even pour of epoxy into a certain spot? I have tried a slow pour and tilting the hull in a direction to allow the epoxy to flow where I want it to go.

[kfxguy]

A syringe

[Tamelesstgr]

Ah, that makes sense!

[Tamelesstgr]

All of the epoxy has been added where needed. Need to start sanding the transom flat and then scuff up the hull while I decide on the paint scheme.

131150131151

[Tamelesstgr]

- Fabricate Aluminum Servo Bracket
- Fabricate Aluminum Trim Tabs
- Fabricate Aluminum Turn Fins
- Fabricate Aluminum Trim Tab Adjusters (L-channel)
- Stainless Steel Trim Tab Adjustment Screws
- Stainless Steel Servo Screws
- Velcro For ESC / Battery
- Sand Transom Epoxy
- Sand Entire Hull 400 Grit
- Finalize Paint Layout
- Paint / Sand / Apply Effects and Logos / Clear / Cut and Buff
- Waterproof Electronics
- Reinstall All Hardware / Lube Flexshaft
- Testing

[ECSURFER84]

Hows the progress on the boat? Im waiting on a few parts to come in and my new 3s lipo packs (2) to get my boat singing across the water :)

Really interested to see when i start cutting the plastic away from the transom how flemsy it may become. i dont anything on the back to move and a LOT more weight is being added with new 5" rudder assembly, adjustable trim tabs, cnc prop, stainless bullet for prop and 8mm tubs... hmmm maybe a layer or so of FG might help if i feel like drag might buckle the transom or allow it to move. anyone have that thought or have worked with plastic hauls before?

[Tamelesstgr]

There is some re-inforcing on the transom on the Shockwave 26, but I would suggest adding more. I am not sure what material ProBoat used, it may be a wood or plastic backing up the transom. As you saw, just adjusting my trim tabs caused the stress cracks.

I hope to get back to this project next week, the weather is getting nice.

[Tamelesstgr]

Made a little progress on my crude trim tabs and turn fins. Using my scroll saw with a metal blade I cut these shapes out. I need to make sure they are square and sand them down on a belt sander. I was going for a little more curve on the turn fins, might try to shape them more on a belt, the scroll saw wasn't very smooth, might try a finer blade.

131947

131948

131949

131950

131951

[Tamelesstgr]

131952

131953

[Tamelesstgr]

I really need better fabrication skills lol, trying to make nice tight bends is challenging, but I managed this servo strap since the plastic ProBoat piece broke on me last year.

132014

132015

132016

132017

[ECSURFER84]

how does it tie down? glue or screw?

[Tamelesstgr]

Screws, but I need to get some stainless ones and drill the holes for them in the bracket.

[Tamelesstgr]

Making some slow progress, trim tabs and turn fins mock up (and side by side pics against stock ProBoat combo):

132248

132249

132250

132251

132252

[Tamelesstgr]

132253

132254

132255

[kfxguy]

What did those bigger tabs come off of?

[Tamelesstgr]

I made them out of some flat stock, see posts above ^^^

[Tamelesstgr]

Things should start getting serious in the paint department this coming week. Didn't want a bunch of fumes and over spray in my basement, so I built a temporary spray booth in the garage.

[Tamelesstgr]

Finally starting the painting process!

132615

132616

132618

132619

132617

[Tamelesstgr]

132620

132621

[Tamelesstgr]

Sides coated Metallic Gray and the start of the Red topcoat:

132812

132813

132814

132815

132816

[Tamelesstgr]

Well, I am pretty happy with the basecoat paint job. Frog tape worked very well in my opinion. I was going to mask and spray logos, but instead I am looking to have some UV vinyl logos printed. Meanwhile, pulled everything together last night, should be testing in the water this weekend!

132889

132890

[Tamelesstgr]

Well, it was an "interesting" weekend of testing. 3000kv setup with 45amp AQ esc is performing better than the brushed setup that was originally in the boat. Still turning the stock ProBoat plastic prop, I have other sizes to try: 40, 42, 45, 48, but I need to get my battery and esc ends changed to XT60 so I can hook up my wattmeter. I'd like to do some testing in the tub before letting those larger props rip out on the lake. This setup is no match for grandpa's BlackJack 29 on 4s.

My son did manage to flip the boat, and the hatch popped off, and the inner hatch too! Within seconds the Shockwave 26 had taken on water and was bobbing there in the lake all by itself. Panic set in lol! I hopped on my buddies waverunner and retrieved the hull and canopies (thankfully) Dried everything off and was sure glad I added extra foam flotation in the nose and coated all my electrical connections with corrosion X. Retested (with hatch tape) about 30 minutes later, and all systems were functional.

Still need to finish up some logo work, paint windshield, and final clear coat.

Whatever material I used to cut the trim tabs and turn fins out of is rusting, so I will probably bite the bullet and purchase some official units.

[RCBoaterGuy]

here's how mine looked after the intial foam treatments....

The entire left side is now filled in and the high spots sanded down. Need to add a bit more to right side, then finish sanding to bleand everything in.

Last batch of foam I got expanded too fast in one of my boats & f'ed up the hull. So gotta do experiments too figure out what caused that - bad batch??

In of his posts Darin Jordan mention marine foam becoming like a sponge (absorbs water) if sanded, so I'll spray a couple coats of clear to put the sheen (and waterproofing) back on.

[RCBoaterGuy]

NO - those custom jobbies you did are very nice!! - Just need to make another set out of the correct materials... http://www.ksmetals.com/30.html - Given the rust issue's I've seen in your pix I would go with SS for obvious reasons.

With your setup I would try a CNC alum or S&B Octura x442 if you have access to one. 45 & 48 are going to be too big for your setup.

Also try it out on a 2S pack (30C minimum) & see how she does. 2S off the charger = 8.4v same as your NiMH but LiPo's pack a lot more wallop.

Because that ESC doesn't have LVC \ LVD you'll either need to time your runs & get one those cell voltage checkers like \ similar to this one... http://www.hobbypartz.com/ms-battery-voltmeter.html - they connect to the balance tap so need to disconnect \ the main battery leads.

You'll know when the battery is getting tired because performance will really fall off - that's how I do it with my mini boats becuz the ESC's in them don't have LVC \ LVD.

FYI: I get 15-mins easy with my SW26 on a 4000mAh 3S pack - our setups are very close.



Well, it was an "interesting" weekend of testing. 3000kv setup with 45amp AQ esc is performing better than the brushed setup that was originally in the boat. Still turning the stock ProBoat plastic prop, I have other sizes to try: 40, 42, 45, 48, but I need to get my battery and esc ends changed to XT60 so I can hook up my wattmeter. I'd like to do some testing in the tub before letting those larger props rip out on the lake. This setup is no match for grandpa's BlackJack 29 on 4s.

My son did manage to flip the boat, and the hatch popped off, and the inner hatch too! Within seconds the Shockwave 26 had taken on water and was bobbing there in the lake all by itself. Panic set in lol! I hopped on my buddies waverunner and retrieved the hull and canopies (thankfully) Dried everything off and was sure glad I added extra foam flotation in the nose and coated all my electrical connections with corrosion X. Retested (with hatch tape) about 30 minutes later, and all systems were functional.

Still need to finish up some logo work, paint windshield, and final clear coat.

Whatever material I used to cut the trim tabs and turn fins out of is rusting, so I will probably bite the bullet and purchase some official units.

[Tamelesstgr]

Bruce,

I did about 5 or 6 smaller batched of the expanding foam and ended up with smaller strips that extend from the opening through the nose. It was difficult to keep the foam even, but so glad I did that.

I measured my Uncle's SV27 trim tabs and the holes match up correctly, however, the way they set up the rudder on the shockwave limits me somewhat (especially with adjustable trim tab options) because the offset rudder uses one of the trim tab holes for mounting. I wonder if cutting stainless will be too difficult for my recripicating saw? Maybe Aluminum?

[RCBoaterGuy]

I've away from boats for quite some time, that's why I haven't been checking this acct much. Wanted to focus on finishing other projects since boats seem to be a never ending nightmare.

Really interested to see when i start cutting the plastic away from the transom how flemsy it may become...
I have this feeling you won't like the results. Keep something in mind, that hull was molded as two pieces - top & bottom then glued together. If chop up sections of it, you'll mess up the structural integrity of the whole unit. Based on what I've read, the consensus seems to be that adding CF or FG sheets to the interior is the best way to make ABS hull's stronger.

....added with new 5" rudder assembly - Why are you adding such a large rudder??
I did a lot of searching on eBay & various Asian vendors awhile back looking for an aluminum rudder setup for my SW26. I was not able to find exact matches, but did come with nice setups that are close. I attached pix of one setup that's about as close as I could find to stock dimensions.

I like those custom spin fin \ trim tabs Ken came up with, 1/2 tempted to send him a sheet of SS stock & $$ to make a set for me. Functional & lightweight, perfect for the SW26's.

Once there set, shouldn't be any reason to mess with them - so why the extra weight of adjustable ones?? I'm guessing your referring to something like these... http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-tab1015 -- or these -- http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ros-spdt-150

CNC props are very light & an excellent choice for dialing in a boat, can always get S&B octura's from Dasboata once you know the best size for your setup

8mm tubs... sorry never heard that term before, not sure what your referring to.



Hows the progress on the boat? Im waiting on a few parts to come in and my new 3s lipo packs (2) to get my boat singing across the water :)

Really interested to see when i start cutting the plastic away from the transom how flemsy it may become. i dont anything on the back to move and a LOT more weight is being added with new 5" rudder assembly, adjustable trim tabs, cnc prop, stainless bullet for prop and 8mm tubs... hmmm maybe a layer or so of FG might help if i feel like drag might buckle the transom or allow it to move. anyone have that thought or have worked with plastic hauls before?

[ECSURFER84]

I've away from boats for quite some time, that's why I haven't been checking this acct much. Wanted to focus on finishing other projects since boats seem to be a never ending nightmare.

Really interested to see when i start cutting the plastic away from the transom how flemsy it may become...
I have this feeling you won't like the results. Keep something in mind, that hull was molded as two pieces - top & bottom then glued together. If chop up sections of it, you'll mess up the structural integrity of the whole unit. Based on what I've read, the consensus seems to be that adding CF or FG sheets to the interior is the best way to make ABS hull's stronger.

....added with new 5" rudder assembly - Why are you adding such a large rudder??
I did a lot of searching on eBay & various Asian vendors awhile back looking for an aluminum rudder setup for my SW26. I was not able to find exact matches, but did come with nice setups that are close. I attached pix of one setup that's about as close as I could find to stock dimensions.

I like those custom spin fin \ trim tabs Ken came up with, 1/2 tempted to send him a sheet of SS stock & $$ to make a set for me. Functional & lightweight, perfect for the SW26's.

Once there set, shouldn't be any reason to mess with them - so why the extra weight of adjustable ones?? I'm guessing your referring to something like these... http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-tab1015 -- or these -- http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ros-spdt-150

CNC props are very light & an excellent choice for dialing in a boat, can always get S&B octura's from Dasboata once you know the best size for your setup

8mm tubs... sorry never heard that term before, not sure what your referring to.

I wasnt necessarily cutting away the structure if you will but cutting away the little parts along the transom to get the new rudder assembly and bolt block installed. I used a dremmel to grind down those areas just enough to get it installed. So as far as using the 5" rudder, this decision was made after many hours reading up on the spartan chine walk. Im running a spartan not a SW, fyi. 8mm tubing for the cooling system. see attached for parts (minus the prop which came in later) and the finished build. want to see how it runs with all the stuff on it now. been using the dremmel to grind down the leading edge and bottom of the stock turn fins as i feel the surface area of these will help pull the boat in the direction of the turn vs the teardrop ones i see many of us purchasing. They arnt as pretty but its the result im looking for. this isnt a light frame anymore, after all the upgrades.
133047133048133049

[ECSURFER84]

really wish the pickups were on the other side of the rudder, im afraid the wash from the prop is gunna reduce actual water flow. instead send a bunch of air up the tubes.

[RCBoaterGuy]

First off, my apologies, thought you were working with a SW26 like Ken & I are.

Now things make much more sense:biggrin:

What a lot of guys that have boats with rudder water P/U's with intake holes only on one side like yours do is add an auxiliary pickup to the transom. Have one pickup feeding the ESC & the other feeding the motor.

I got an aeromarine pickup in my parts box - yours if you want it. https://rocketcityracing.com/images/product/AER-7020__90622.jpg - painted the bracket a nice medium blue, should look good on your boat, too big for my (real) boats.

Have Proboat IM31 & MG29, the rudders on both boats have inlets on both sides of the rudder to solve the issue you expressed concerns about. Attached pix of BJ29 to show what I'm referring to.



really wish the pickups were on the other side of the rudder, im afraid the wash from the prop is gunna reduce actual water flow. instead send a bunch of air up the tubes.

[RCBoaterGuy]

Ken - did the foam in my SW26 same way you did, in stages.

What happened is: I used this stuff for most of the boat... http://www.funrcboats.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=FOAMSHOT - got tired of continually running out of foam.

So last order got the large size... http://www.funrcboats.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=FRCBFOAM - that's the stuff that went haywire - in my Mini-V.

Finally just said "F" this, boxed up both the IM31 & MG29 indefinitely, I'd list them in the classifieds, but I know what will happen, so... turned my attention to my trucks. Don't have all these issues with them, everything always goes real smooth.

See post #33 - never ending nightmare. For some reason I just cannot seem to get boats figured out, constant problems, except the SW26...

Redid the ESC mount couple months ago, strapped one of these to it... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Venom-Atomik-Pro-Brushless-Marine-Water-Cooled-120A-Boat-ESC-/311011369961?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2F i.html%3F_nkw%3D311011369961%26_rdc%3D1&nma=true&si=rjaoJtec3mzgg%252FIMMgFcJ%252BKkPvw%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 came out real nice. But still need to test the latest batch of foam before trying use it with this boat. Not doing a repeat of the Mini-V fiasco.

This boat did reeeellll good on her maiden, I do not want her getting fouled up.

But my hobby allowance is going to the trucks till all four are done - almost there.



Bruce,

I did about 5 or 6 smaller batched of the expanding foam and ended up with smaller strips that extend from the opening through the nose. It was difficult to keep the foam even, but so glad I did that.

I measured my Uncle's SV27 trim tabs and the holes match up correctly, however, the way they set up the rudder on the shockwave limits me somewhat (especially with adjustable trim tab options) because the offset rudder uses one of the trim tab holes for mounting. I wonder if cutting stainless will be too difficult for my recripicating saw? Maybe Aluminum?

[ECSURFER84]

First off, my apologies, thought you were working with a SW26 like Ken & I are.

Now things make much more sense:biggrin:

What a lot of guys that have boats with rudder water P/U's with intake holes only on one side like yours do is add an auxiliary pickup to the transom. Have one pickup feeding the ESC & the other feeding the motor.

I got an aeromarine pickup in my parts box - yours if you want it. https://rocketcityracing.com/images/product/AER-7020__90622.jpg - painted the bracket a nice medium blue, should look good on your boat, too big for my (real) boats.

Have Proboat IM31 & MG29, the rudders on both boats have inlets on both sides of the rudder to solve the issue you expressed concerns about. Attached pix of BJ29 to show what I'm referring to.

"Real" boats huh? :) Sure if you are willing to part with it, i'll gladly accept and install!

I might just shave down the inlets to the front of the rudder like they did for the stock rudder.
133084

[Tamelesstgr]

Some progress this last week. Was able to test and gps with 2s Lipo pack, about neck and neck in terms of speed compared to the 8.4v nimh pack I have been using.

Painted the windshield and trimmed with pinstripe tape, a hair dryer helped with getting the curves to blend nicely and lay flat. Just waiting for my logo sheet to come in and then I can apply them and get the clearcoat on.

I just ordered a 3s pack and GT Wattmeter that will log max values (amps, volts, watts) so I can see what the boat is actually doing out on the water versus estimating by holding it in a hot tub and trying to record the highest value on the screen.

I'm also not completely happy with it's turning attitude, seems to skip a little on turns, I don't know if that has more to do with the hull and chines, or the turn fins? I'm going to try making a little longer pair that has more curve to them.

133548

133549

[Tamelesstgr]

Figured out a way to run aftermarket turn fin brackets with the stock Shockwave rudder set up. The bracket will overlap one hole on the trim tab and I'll even it out on the backside with a flat washer. On the Starboard side I trimmed half of the bracket away, so only 1 bolt through the transom, but I think it will hold up. Just waiting on new stainless hardware to arrive and we will be good to go this weekend. Logos and final clearcoat are drying, should have some pics posted in a few days. 3s lipo, GT watt meter and props packed up for testing.

133726

133727

133728

133729

133730

[RCBoaterGuy]

When I said "real boats" I meant the Proboat IM31-v1 (close in size to Spartan's) & Miss Geico 29-v2. Not the mini boats.

Lotta talk in the "RTR Fast Electric Talk" section about the new IM31-v3; don't get the impression that people somehow think its not a "real boat", so not quite sure why my V1 should be any different :confused1: -- maybe I should just throw my boats in the dumpster & stick with what I know... R\C trucks.

About the mini boats...
The lake I normally goto was practically dry when I took the SW26 for her maiden late Sept last year. I honestly didn't think they would be able to refill it for this summer (so I would be limited to going to ponds).

When it did start filling up there was driftwood everywhere; at one point there was a pile of it at lake side big enough to build a two bedroom house. Smack that stuff with a MG29 going a good clip & you might as well pack it in, cuz your coming home empty handed.

But somehow they managed to get it most of the way full. With a triple digit heat wave + a major league drought in full force I have my doubts about how long the water will last.

Got the Mini-V couple years ago but never finished it cuz everybody on this site thinks they know more about designing boats than the engineers @ PB. So they whack off the outdrive & bastardize the transom on any\all boats so equipped.

Several months back I decided to scourer this forum & read everything I could find about that boat. Finally found a thread where a member said he wants to keep the OD, but make it so he can use standard 1/8" smooth bore props.

When I saw the solution a light bulb lite up (like Wiley Coyote when he gets one his brite idea's). I just said... no f'ing way, it can't be that simple, well it is & best of all I had the parts on hand because nobody took me up on my offer back @ xmas time.

From there I just started fiddling with it in effort to get 'er dialed in. Unfortunately, that process has not gone very smoothly.

Set the IM17 up very similar to the MV, only diff was the ESC, dam boat barely moved on the maiden. Was trying to establish a baseline prior to going brushless. Next time I take one of the other boats to the lake I'll take this one too & see what happens. Make decisions afterwards.



"Real" boats huh? :) Sure if you are willing to part with it, i'll gladly accept and install!

I might just shave down the inlets to the front of the rudder like they did for the stock rudder.
133084

[ECSURFER84]

When I said "real boats" I meant the Proboat IM31-v1 (close in size to Spartan's) & Miss Geico 29-v2. Not the mini boats.

Lotta talk in the "RTR Fast Electric Talk" section about the new IM31-v3; don't get the impression that people somehow think its not a "real boat", so not quite sure why my V1 should be any different :confused1: -- maybe I should just throw my boats in the dumpster & stick with what I know... R\C trucks.

About the mini boats...
The lake I normally goto was practically dry when I took the SW26 for her maiden late Sept last year. I honestly didn't think they would be able to refill it for this summer (so I would be limited to going to ponds).

When it did start filling up there was driftwood everywhere; at one point there was a pile of it at lake side big enough to build a two bedroom house. Smack that stuff with a MG29 going a good clip & you might as well pack it in, cuz your coming home empty handed.

But somehow they managed to get it most of the way full. With a triple digit heat wave + a major league drought in full force I have my doubts about how long the water will last.

Got the Mini-V couple years ago but never finished it cuz everybody on this site thinks they know more about designing boats than the engineers @ PB. So they whack off the outdrive & bastardize the transom on any\all boats so equipped.

Several months back I decided to scourer this forum & read everything I could find about that boat. Finally found a thread where a member said he wants to keep the OD, but make it so he can use standard 1/8" smooth bore props.

When I saw the solution a light bulb lite up (like Wiley Coyote when he gets one his brite idea's). I just said... no f'ing way, it can't be that simple, well it is & best of all I had the parts on hand because nobody took me up on my offer back @ xmas time.

From there I just started fiddling with it in effort to get 'er dialed in. Unfortunately, that process has not gone very smoothly.

Set the IM17 up very similar to the MV, only diff was the ESC, dam boat barely moved on the maiden. Was trying to establish a baseline prior to going brushless. Next time I take one of the other boats to the lake I'll take this one too & see what happens. Make decisions afterwards.

I was torn between a proboat and the spartan when i bought my first boat, the spartan. I really like the proboats, they are well made and good looking, i just needed/wanted something bigger and faster. Impulse was my first choice but I was also torn between buying a RTR vs ARTR. Having absolutely no experience with boats i started with an RTR. I was stuck on fiberglass hulls, so i was completely surprised to receive a "plastic" hull. guess we'll see how she holds up in the long haul.

Just upgraded all the exteriors (except the turn fins which im modifying the stock to have a clean sharp lead and bottom edge using a dremmel). Need to lower the trim tabs and i hope this helps with the out of the hole issues i see. if i slam the gas it acts like it wants to do a full rotation upside down because of the torque im assuming. so i have to walk it out of the hole and up on plane. maybe some extra trim tabs will help.

Im a complete noooooooob to this hobby, but i grew up around boats and love them. this was perfect (minus the non ability to ride it, altho i could probably hold on to the back and it pull me around like a tug boat :) Aside from that i wanted to find something that i could play with/modify/tinker that was more affordable than a real boat. i love rc, had trucks and cars in the past, nothing to talk about but i was into them. thought about planes and said, if i wreck this thing im gunna be at square one again.... boat it is, less chance of smashing it into hard ground and more opportunity to salvage parts if i somehow beach it. PLUS it gets me out on the water!

So i chose the spartan because most of the time im at my dads beach house on the river, which happens to be next to a harbor, and boats come and go from there all day long, i wanted a boat that could handle the 1+ foot chop rolling into the beach. this boat does amazing with it, skipping across like it was in a field of daisies.

i think once i get the hang of taking the boat apart, learning the dynamics that go into it and the fine measurements, i'll build the next one. probably a twin 51". there is a beautiful p-1 fountain hull that i want. some guy in germany makes it, but it costs more to ship than the damn hull costs all by itself!!!

[RCBoaterGuy]

Ken,
First off, I really like the design of the one's you hand made. I think you were going in the right direction with those. As far as fabrication & working with various materials, remember I live in an apt so don't have a proper workshop - or room for 29 & 31-inch boats.

I use a dremel tool ( http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/rotary-tools/heavy-duty-variable-speed-rotary-tool-kit-31-pc-68696.html ) with that hobby vise for most of my fabricating needs. Get dremel #420 cutoff wheels in 20-piece paks. Also keep plenty of course & fine sander drums on hand. Wally Mart, Lowe's & Home Depot have them.

Those cutoff wheels hack through everything I've thrown at them, brass stock, stainless stock, some over 1/8" thick, stainless bolts, wood, you name it. The thicker metals chew them up pretty quick, but that goes with the territory, part of being an RC hobbyist.

Aftermarket...
Also thought about them. While checking out all the available options kept thinking to myself.... remember, Darin Jordan designed shorter + rectangular fins for your IM31... http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-1400

So kinda steered away from the raked \ angled type fins. Just feel like Darin knows a lot more than I do & that he had to have a dam good reason for that design. So decided to follow his lead & found a nice set @ Kintec (see attached). If memory serve's me right, I found aluminum versions somewhere on the net.

What's nice about those is: you can trim some material off the back's & bottom's till you find the sweet spot for your boats setup.

BTW: how did you come up with that painted? window \ windshield you put on the canopy?? That is very nice!!

That was my primary fear about painting my boat, having seen that, no more fear.



Figured out a way to run aftermarket turn fin brackets with the stock Shockwave rudder set up. The bracket will overlap one hole on the trim tab and I'll even it out on the backside with a flat washer. On the Starboard side I trimmed half of the bracket away, so only 1 bolt through the transom, but I think it will hold up. Just waiting on new stainless hardware to arrive and we will be good to go this weekend. Logos and final clearcoat are drying, should have some pics posted in a few days. 3s lipo, GT watt meter and props packed up for testing.

133726

133727

133728

133729

133730

[ECSURFER84]

Ken,
First off, I really like the design of the one's you hand made. I think you were going in the right direction with those. As far as fabrication & working with various materials, remember I live in an apt so don't have a proper workshop - or room for 29 & 31-inch boats.

I use a dremel tool ( http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/rotary-tools/heavy-duty-variable-speed-rotary-tool-kit-31-pc-68696.html ) with that hobby vise for most of my fabricating needs. Get dremel #420 cutoff wheels in 20-piece paks. Also keep plenty of course & fine sander drums on hand. Wally Mart, Lowe's & Home Depot have them.

Those cutoff wheels hack through everything I've thrown at them, brass stock, stainless stock, some over 1/8" thick, stainless bolts, wood, you name it. The thicker metals chew them up pretty quick, but that goes with the territory, part of being an RC hobbyist.

Aftermarket...
Also thought about them. While checking out all the available options kept thinking to myself.... remember, Darin Jordan designed shorter + rectangular fins for your IM31... http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-1400

So kinda steered away from the raked \ angled type fins. Just feel like Darin knows a lot more than I do & that he had to have a dam good reason for that design. So decided to follow his lead & found a nice set @ Kintec (see attached). If memory serve's me right, I found aluminum versions somewhere on the net.

What's nice about those is: you can trim some material off the back's & bottom's till you find the sweet spot for your boats setup.

BTW: how did you come up with that painted? window \ windshield you put on the canopy?? That is very nice!!

That was my primary fear about painting my boat, having seen that, no more fear.


I left the rectangular on mine as well because i felt there was more surface area to pull the boat into turns vs. the teardrop ones. Im doing whats shown in that kintec image with my dremel, and also across the bottom of the turn fin too.

[ECSURFER84]

i went with this dremel because of the flex shaft, makes getting in those tight spots easier, and also easier to hold
http://www.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435634754&sr=8-1&keywords=wen+rotary

[Tamelesstgr]

Here is the finished paint job and I finished assembling the transom hardware. Custom printed logos and 3 coats of clear ontop of everything. Should be ready to rip while I'm on vacation.

133851

133852

133853

133854

133855

[ECSURFER84]

Here is the finished paint job and I finished assembling the transom hardware. Custom printed logos and 3 coats of clear ontop of everything. Should be ready to rip while I'm on vacation.

133851

133852

133853

133854

133855

looks awesome, what a great paint job and really dig the name too. make sure to get a video of the main voyage!

[kfxguy]

Very nice looking!

[Tamelesstgr]

Thanks guys, It's not quite what I hoped for a flawless paint job, but I think I did pretty good for Rustoleum rattle cans. I built a temporary spray booth, so I think that really helped with the dust control and crap getting into the paint. The Epoxy fix that I did on the transom left some air bubble pockets that I should have filled, but oh well. Learned a lot I can apply to my 32" v-Hull build.

[lt130th]

Paint looks good. Something unlike all the others. I like that.

[Tamelesstgr]

Well, some changes for project Slingshot. Sticking with the 1500KV ProBoat motor and ESC. Testing revealed that it ran much cooler with lower overall amp draw than the 3000kv setup. I'm stepping up to 4S and I'll choose an approperiate prop and think that will suffice. This has been a really challenging way to learn about boats, and I all ready see that this would have been so much more worthwhile in another beefier hull, but I bet a lot of you can relate. I'll post some updated pictures soon.

[Tamelesstgr]

Updates from the last 5-6 weeks. The 1500kv runs nice and controlled on 3s with cool temps on every prop I have. On 4s I'm cracking 30mph and have been able to hang with a Blackjack 29 and Supervee 27. I was noticing some chine walk, but dialing in my trim tabs and making sure the rudder was not sloppy has seemed to help that issue. Current state is running 4s with the ProBoat 1500kv and 45amp ProBoat esc. I plan on upgrading that ESC this winter to something like a 120 amp unit so I can run some more aggressive props. Learned a lot this summer!

136376

[Tamelesstgr]

So Update for the wintertime, it just started snowing in Chicago (UGH) it's not even Thanksgiving, expecting 4-6" into tomorrow. I'll be running an Aquacraft 2030 with a new ESC, just trying to decide if I go 180amp or not, thought it might be nice to have a backup since that is what I will be using in my 32" mono. Wanted dual water cooling for this hull going forward, decided to try something similar to what ProBoat uses. I always get great waterflow out of the port, much more than rudder pickups i've seen on my dad's BlackJack29 and Uncle's SuperVee27. Also picked up some props to try my hand at sharpening and balancing.

138984

138985

140339

138986

[Tamelesstgr]

I decided I wanted to go with a .187 felx cable assemble from OSE and run without the liner in 2016. So New motor collet is nearly touching the stuffing tube when loosened up. Needed to move the entire motor back so that I have room to clean the tip of the cable and tighten the collet. Took some aluminum and made an extension bracket that bolts to the existing motor mount. This gives me enough room, but I think I am going to make some type of support for the opposite end of the motor to provide some support. Turnigy 120amp ESC will also be going in to manage the AQ2030 motor.

140334

140335

140336

140337

140338

[Tamelesstgr]

Almost ready now, upgraded Turnigy 120amp ESC in place and plumbed, motor support piece epoxied in, rudder linkage cut and bent. Need to measure and cut my new .187 flex and put the rudder back on her, then leak test.

140570

140571

140572

140573

[Tamelesstgr]

For the most part everything weny well Sunday on the first water test. Nothing blew up, nothing was leaking! I'll be starting to sharpen and balance props, collect data and GPS in the upcoming months.

Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygpCC-rH9tM

[Tamelesstgr]

First Data Log:

AQ2030 on 4S
40mm Graupner Prop

RPM = 29,761
Motor Temp = 100.3
Max Watts = 1,135
Max Amps = 75.63
GPS (Garmin Forerunner 205) = 26.0mph (Seems kind of low to me, runs were straight for over 7 seconds, need to validate with my cell phone GPS)

Attached graph & EagleTree Dashboard

142764 142765

[Tamelesstgr]

Garmin GPS definately not accurate, I ran it on my son's Traxxas Slash and was getting 20mph while my phone app recorded 27. Need to retest with my phone in the boat I guess.

[Tamelesstgr]

Two new sets of turn fins to try. Fabbed out of aluminum, tapered leading edges. Modeled after Darin's OSE turn fin and also the Aquacraft Revolt 30 turn fins. Trying to eliminate some of the skipping in turns for this hull.

144091

144092

144093

144094

144095

[fweasel]

Nice progress on this build. Where do you run your boats locally? With Google Maps and some weekend scouting in the car, I've got two spots within 30min of my house downtown.

[Tamelesstgr]

Luckily in my back yard in my subdivision pond. Ultimately I will be swapping out the power train into a new hull in the fall. With the increased speed this narrow hull doesn't have very good handling anymore. Going bigger and wider over winter with a Jet Chopper hull.