Swordfish 300amp HV Lite Wiring

[electric]

First time to deal with one of these ESC's. I can see that the two positive wires go together and the two negatives go together. Then I would solder them to the capacitor on one side and out to the other side for + and - ? My two questions are:
1. How do you join the two positive wires into one? To big to solder well together? I was thinking maybe I make up a Y connector and do it with plugs?
2. Should the one positive(after the "Y") go on to one of the solder pads for the capacitor and then a second wire go out to the batteries on the other solder pad for positive? Same for the negative. I actually have wired a castle with the capacitors, but they were soldered to the wire, but not terminated to the capacitor and back out like this might be?

3. Perhaps a picture is worth a thousand words on this one. Someone have pic of it set up?

The castle was in the picture just as a comparison for a friend.

Thanks,
Jim

[kfxguy]

man i juist did one for a guy. cant find any pics even tho i thought I took some. Anyway, I cut the two red and two black short....maybe an inch long. then I soldered each pair into large bullets, 8mm or 8.5mm I cant remember. then I made up my harness going to the battery plugs with a fairly short 8ga wire.

[klbo]

130414
Soldered 8 mm bullets to all connections drilled a hole through the solder whole soldered a brass rod soldered the brass rod to the capacitors

[electric]

130414
Soldered 8 mm bullets to all connections drilled a hole through the solder whole soldered a brass rod soldered the brass rod to the capacitors

Wow, that took some work. Nice solution though. I was staring at it this morning and thinking if I strip a piece of 8 gauge wire and then strip the wires coming out of the esc. Then take piece of copper wire and wind the three wires together and then solder it might work. I had not figured out the capacitor connection though. I think I like the way castle does their capacitors better. Very nice work you did.

[klbo]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]
I got this capacitor with the swordfish 300

[electric]

Yes, I was going to show an alternate way to solder up one of these ESC's, but after finishing perhaps its just a cautionary tale. I pre soldered each wire. Flattened them with a hammer and then held them together with vise grips. Then I wrapped it with solid copper wire and then soldered the three together. Seemed like a reasonable approach, but the darn wire is just too thick and you end up with way more wire and solder than you want. I went forward with it and here is what I ended up with. :ThumbsDown01:Not proud of it. At this point though, I just hope it functions correctly and I will live with the ugliness of it. Would have preferred to not have clear insulation so you can't see it, but that is all I had available in the shop today. Next time I will use bullets and a harness. Just did not have any big ones available to me today.

Suddenly I really, really appreciate the quality of Klbo's work.

[electric]

By the way, could we have some bigger solder pads for the capacitors please. You have these giant wires and the tiny solder pads they leave you. I am left wondering whether those contact points are big enough considering the amps that are being pulled etc...

I like these castle capacitors because they have bars coming up to solder to that you can put right in line.

[klbo]

Are you running one battery pack or multiple battery packs

[electric]

This one will be a 10s set up. four 5s batteries. Running a Castle 2028 in 48" mono.

[klbo]

I'm running the same motor and battery configuration in my 58 Central marine fountain
I think you'll definitely have to revisit your wiring then that is going to be a high amp draw system
what size bullet connectors are you running 8mm minimum you really should do something more like what I've done you'll be able to plug-in 10s per side130430130431
i'm going to be running A 455x prop


yours looks like its soldered well should work

[iridebikes247]

This is one of the only useful pictures I have to show how I've setup these escs. You can solder the two wires together and can solder a third wire on without getting a cold joint, just takes a decent amount of heat.

[electric]

Thanks for ideas and pics guys. The castle 200hv you see in my pics is being used for a Backlash I am running 10s with yet another Castle 2028. Big fan of those motors and what they can do at the price point they are at is amazing. On the 48" mono that uses this swordfish I am going to start with a cut down, pitched up x452. then a x455, then 457 depending on the speeds and what I get with each run.

If I get some video's of it I will post it. Can't find my pivot head sunglasses (camera built in) some maybe not.

[oscarel]

Hey Jim, I was planning on sharing this on Saturday but forgot. Here's what I did with mine. This frees up the leads to use as you want. I also added more conformal coating on the main board. Notice the water line was kinked on this one. Also, the wrap around lines are smaller than the in/out and notice how little cooling there is :-).

132208132209132210132211132212

[oscarel]

And here it is shrink wrapped back up with cap bank underneath.

132213132214

[RaceMechaniX]

Oscarel,

If you still have the shrink off can you take a pic of the other side of the SF300lite?

Thx

[oscarel]

Oscarel,

If you still have the shrink off can you take a pic of the other side of the SF300lite?

Thx

Here you go

132215

[RaceMechaniX]

Perfect Thanks.

[kfxguy]

Is that thing coated with clear epoxy?

[oscarel]

Is that thing coated with clear epoxy?

They're coated to make them water resistant, not sure what they use.

[kfxguy]

They're coated to make them water resistant, not sure what they use.

So the whe thing is coated? I didn't want to cut the shrink off and void my warranty but if it's not coated I'll coat it anyway.

[oscarel]

So the whe thing is coated? I didn't want to cut the shrink off and void my warranty but if it's not coated I'll coat it anyway.

The whole esc appears to be lightly coated.

[kfxguy]

And here's how I wire mine (part of what I do but I'm sure you can figure out what I do.


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/92ADCDF9-CB8A-4DA4-AE15-2FC433DBFF79.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/92ADCDF9-CB8A-4DA4-AE15-2FC433DBFF79.jpg.html)

[RaceMechaniX]

The coating is called a conformal coating. They are commonly used to insulate electronics. There are Silicone and Urethane based conformal coatings plus several other specialty ones. Most hobby coatings are silicone based.

TG

[kevinpratt823]

On my 1p setups, I brought soldered both wires into the connector end of a female 8mm bullet, then a short wire out the other end, along with a pigtail for the caps.
On the 2p setup, I soldered each wire into it's own 8mm bullet normally, then stripped the main wire an inch or so back and piggyback soldered on wire that jumps from one to the other. This jumper wire was stripped in the middle and soldered to the cap bank. I'll see if I have any pics when I get to my computer.....
These have worked well for my applications.

[kevinpratt823]

1phttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/20/9ae96353e3b756a25c639568d58dd2ad.jpg
2phttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/20/376f5d3af7c0131c5697533a218b7df4.jpg

I know the pigtail methods are not perfectly ideal because they are not directly on the power wires, but I have plenty of headroom on both the capacitors and esc., and this was far more feasible for the space i had to work with. The 2p setup has run flawlessly for a few seasons in my Sniper 45" @well over 225 amps, the 1p setup is in the KBB45 twin, and has only seen about 10 runs, but was good enough to break 100mph on gps @ 160 amps.