220 pro plus waterproofing

[DaveM]

Would it be ok to silicone the ends of the heat shrink to aid waterproofing?

Also I have noticed a lot of heat from the end of the esc, as when I remove the lid, the boat is full of steam?. batts and motor are fine. 4082 m445 2200 kv.

[Luck as a Constant]

I was wondering myself


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bozo586]

silicone? makes everything slippery--tried it on the house sump pump to stop a leak and when you tighten the clamp it slips off----i would not try it.

[tlandauer]

Would it be ok to silicone the ends of the heat shrink to aid waterproofing?

Also I have noticed a lot of heat from the end of the esc, as when I remove the lid, the boat is full of steam?. batts and motor are fine. 4082 m445 2200 kv.

I would worry about my job of sealing it 100%, the trapped moisture will eventually kill the ESC. That would be my main concern.
Just my $.02

[Michlee]

Swordfish Pro Plus 220A is painted with a thick layer of water-resistant coating in factory, it's ok to protect ESC from spill water.

[DaveM]

Thanks for all the input. I did notice the coating. But why all the steam? I've pressure checked the esc to make sure it's not leaking. And the end by the capacitors is quite hot.

[tlandauer]

Sometimes the "air" in your boat has high moisture content, it will steam up.

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

[tlandauer]

Use a temp gun to check the temp on the caps. I will be uncomfortable if it's more than 160 f.

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

[tlandauer]

You should see if you can shorten the wires between the battery(ies) and the ESC, also adding a cap bank will help lower the temp on the cap. They are now working over time. Check if the top has any bulges.
How is your driving style? Constant on and off, part throttle will contribute to high temp. These techniques should all be avoided.
How long do you run non-stop?

[DaveM]

No bulges on top of the esc. I will look into adding a cap bank as the caps did feel quite hot, but not as hot as 160f but will temp next time. I don't think I could run with shorter lipo leads as per set up.

Due to winds conditions at present, I can only really run whole of throttle 10% of my run time at present, mid 60% and low-mid 30%. So if the slower speed is heating up the esc, why do two of my friends T3's still stay cool? (extra cap bank maybe?). I won't run again until I get one!

I only run one set of lipos so run every 40 minutes for approx 5 minutes, and this is it's third run (and 5 mins is long enough with the new set up!!). Lipos are coming in warm after 5 mins, and at 3.9v per cell).

Thanks Dave.



20150327_221648.jpg20150327_221042.jpg

[tlandauer]

If you have to have slower speed, the only sensible way is to use a smaller prop. Driving partial throttle is deadly for the ESC. May be your friends' T3 has a smaller prop or lower kv motor. This is a common misconception.

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

[DaveM]

If u have to have slower speed, the only sensible way is to use a smaller prop..

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

Thanks. I would have not thought of that.

One runs the same set up as me, and the other runs an etti 2600 on an x442 4s2p and gets away with it.

[dmitry100]

If you have to have slower speed, the only sensible way is to use a smaller prop. Driving partial throttle is deadly for the ESC. May be your friends' T3 has a smaller prop or lower kv motor. This is a common misconception.

How would driving partial throttle be deadly to the ESC? I'm not sure why driving it slower would hurt it more than full throttle and so on. Maybe I'm not understanding what is considered to be partial throttle...

[DaveM]

Resistance. Heat. Fire!

[tlandauer]

How would driving partial throttle be deadly to the ESC? I'm not sure why driving it slower would hurt it more than full throttle and so on. Maybe I'm not understanding what is considered to be partial throttle...

The ESC is like a valve attached to a giant reservoir , any partial opening or constant opening-and-closing of the valve is hard on the mechanism because it has to bear a tremendous amount of pressure. If you open it fully water will just flow evenly at the rate afforded by the given size of the valve.
This is the best non electrical engineering jargon that I am capable of giving, it may make a lot of people laugh but it helps me to understand.
The caps are like shock absorber for the valve, they work really hard and the more absorbers you put in there the happier they are and could be more helpful for the valve.
To answer you from another thread, a cap bank will not increase the amp rating for the given ESC. It will help the ESC to run cooler and prolong the life on the FETS, also distributing the work load on the caps that come from the factory.