Project Fast Cat

[kfxguy]

Sold my original Rivercat :( figured it was time to let it go to a good home and build another one later (yea that lasted about 3 days)as I've collected a few hulls (I love this little cat, what can I say?). I go up in the attic to grab the cheetah I'm starting on and grab a Rivercat to sit on my top shelf (I was feeling lonely lol). It sat up there for about a day or two before I got it down and started the inlay on it. Ok, enough about that. My goal for this cat is to make it as strong, nice and as fast as my skills will allow. I'm going to use everything I've learned and apply it to this. I'll be going back and forth on this between 4 other builds. I'll be posting one more different build soon. I encourage any ideas or discussion through this build, in my opinion that's part of the fun and keeps me motivated....so by all means, have at it.

Here's a parts list:
Hull: 32" fightercat carbon fiber Rivercat
Motor: lehner 2250
Esc: castle 8s capable mamba xl2 converted to water cooled
Cap bank: yes of course
Collet: mbp 8mm x .187
Flex: aeromarine .187
Servo: billet spectrum waterproof (new not released yet but on preorder)
Servo linkage: stainless heavy duty rod, polished
Batt connectors: castle green 6.5mm
Batts: revo 427's 5500 70c
Motor mount: kintec adjustable sliding

The inlay is a tad different that I usually do. One layer has always faired good enough and held up well. I decided to do one regular layer on the tunnel only and then go over the whole thing with a heavier layer of honey comb cf.

First layer:

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/A9C1523A-F11D-4B3C-A4B7-AB06774DA2DB.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/A9C1523A-F11D-4B3C-A4B7-AB06774DA2DB.jpg.html)


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/29940A38-A938-4229-BFFC-6488B2E5C844.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/29940A38-A938-4229-BFFC-6488B2E5C844.jpg.html)


Motor mount with a 2260 in it for mockup (2250 hasn't got here yet)

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/0E3EE08D-5148-4793-8619-31EFEF5A0F24.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/0E3EE08D-5148-4793-8619-31EFEF5A0F24.jpg.html)[/URL]

[kfxguy]

Just got these puppies from ose the other day. So glad he starting carrying them!

If you haven't used these, I highly recommend. Well worth price!

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/EC8F0A71-D465-4E3B-91F1-CB05D52B8743.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/EC8F0A71-D465-4E3B-91F1-CB05D52B8743.jpg.html)


Little mockup to see how it's gonna fit. Keep in mind this motor is a tad longer than what I'm using. It still fits tho!



http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/35953406-E6C9-4590-B857-83B1ED96E4E7.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/35953406-E6C9-4590-B857-83B1ED96E4E7.jpg.html)

[kfxguy]

Lining it up

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/12B1CD5F-C591-4BB8-91DB-E7AEE905181A.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/12B1CD5F-C591-4BB8-91DB-E7AEE905181A.jpg.html)

Ready to be sanded. I tried to start last night but the epoxy I bought this go round takes more than two days to cure so it wasn't quite hard enough to sand yet. Should be able to mount tonight.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/0D5D3B72-DD35-4D90-A418-C8074108AF31_1.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/0D5D3B72-DD35-4D90-A418-C8074108AF31_1.jpg.html)

[kfxguy]

Here's the servo I ordered. It's supposed to be available early March. I preordered it. I had a very hard time finding everything I wanted in a servo. I wanted black and billet, waterproof, futaba 25t spline (I'll show you why later, I have some trick servo arms in that spline) and I wanted it compact but powerful. This is the only servo that fit all that criteria. If anyone knows of something else, I'm all ears!

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/559600A2-5975-42F7-96D4-297BBC2AFB8C.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/559600A2-5975-42F7-96D4-297BBC2AFB8C.jpg.html)

[TheShaddix]

is that a custom CF esc cooling block? Can you post some upclose shots of that? looks really cool!

Also got a question for your inlays. Where do you normally cut it off on the sides? In other words, Where do the edges of the cloth end on the wall? I'm wondering where would be a good cut off line so that it doesn't interfere with the motor mounts (for twin setup) and also provides enough coverage.

I also ordered that collet too, been drooling over those for a long time and finally they are here on OSE! Not sure what the difference is between this and a cheap 10 dollar one, but I like the look of it. The only concern I have are those black bolts that go through the main section at the motor side, those seem like they would rust as they are not stainless.

[kfxguy]

is that a custom CF esc cooling block? Can you post some upclose shots of that? looks really cool!

Also got a question for your inlays. Where do you normally cut it off on the sides? In other words, Where do the edges of the cloth end on the wall? I'm wondering where would be a good cut off line so that it doesn't interfere with the motor mounts (for twin setup) and also provides enough coverage.

I also ordered that collet too, been drooling over those for a long time and finally they are here on OSE! Not sure what the difference is between this and a cheap 10 dollar one, but I like the look of it. The only concern I have are those black bolts that go through the main section at the motor side, those seem like they would rust as they are not stainless.



Hey thanks! You must have missed this thread.... http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?50718-Water-cooled-mamba-xl2&highlight=

That thread shows all the details of the esc. Pretty interesting what I did honestly.

The collets...yes I'm glad he did. They seem to grab better and are by far smoother and more precise...and balanced. I've been balancing my cheapie collets but these are far better. On the screws, how would they rust if your boat is completely sealed? Hmmm. Just kidding, I'm making a joke about the people that say their boats are perfectly sealed and never get water. But anyway, I've used these collets a few times and the screws don't rust that easily. Easy to replace if they do. I

I go as far back and as forward as I can reach and go all the way up the sides and curve back in a little. I'd put some 2mm or 3mm plates epoxied at the rear of the sponson where the drive will mount too then do your inlay. I just ordered some west systems today to try on my shocker and a couple other boats I have lined up. If my motor does not come in by the time this boat is done, I have a neu 1521 2900kv and 1900kv motors to try. I want to see how fast I can go on 4s with that 2900kv motor altho that's slated for another carbon Rivercat hull I have that will be built soon also. Just been dying to try this motor. That will be a purpose built, lightweight version.

[rearwheelin]

This is going to be a fast boat !:popcorn2:

[srislash]

Ok, I'll ask a question. Is that little cat going to float with a 2250 and stuff in it? Rofl

So how about a deck brace? If you are gonna break 100 with this one you are bound to have some mishaps.

Though I will add that you seem to be quite good at getting a boat 'trimmed just right'

[rearwheelin]

You do the same thing I do ! Leave lighters and smokes in the pics :bounce:128501

[rearwheelin]

I would laminate the front and back side of the motor plate with 1-2mm cf to give it more strength and bling. JB weld is perfect for this upgrade . Do one side a night. Dremel out the holes before you do the other side . I think that would look really good !

[keithbradley]

The only concern I have are those black bolts that go through the main section at the motor side, those seem like they would rust as they are not stainless.

They can/will, but you can prevent that by putting a little oil on them. They are not stainless for a reason, so don't swap them for stainless. Stainless cannot be hardened with the same processes that are typically used for steel bolts due to a low carbon content, so stainless bolts are actually much softer and prone to galling when compared to quality steel bolts. You will find (at least in high power setups) that you will need to get pretty serious when it comes to tightening those bolts.

These collets used to come with bolts that are a little on the short side and swapping them out for longer bolts helped prevent thread failure...I'm not sure if the bolts have been changed since then though, so take a look at yours. They are far superior to the Chinese collets in terms of run-out. All of the cheaper collets have a significant amount of run-out compared to these, which can lead to premature motor failure on high RPM setups.

A few of us with extreme setups have also found that the "fingers" of these collets will twist if the load/torque is great enough. They don't typically fail because of this but it does make the flex difficult to remove/install. If you have this issue, just consider yourself in the "gotta pay if you wanna play" club.:lol:

[kfxguy]

Ok, I'll ask a question. Is that little cat going to float with a 2250 and stuff in it? Rofl

So how about a deck brace? If you are gonna break 100 with this one you are bound to have some mishaps.

Though I will add that you seem to be quite good at getting a boat 'trimmed just right'


Well I hope it floats lol. I don't see it having a problem tho. Some places in dropping weight over my original Rivercat (servo, motor mount, battery trays) but in others weight is getting added. Of course I'll be weighing it and if it's several oz heavier, I'm sure it'll be ok. Probably help it stay down better. I do know that my last build worked well and I don't want to deviate too far from that build

I know most of you guys like pool noodles and stuff like that but I prefer two part foam. Last Rivercat was done like this and it was very strong. If I have to do repairs I can do them to the outside. Honestly I'm so picky that should it get damaged, I'll toss the hull in the garbage and build another. I'd just be more worried about getting my electronics back.

[kfxguy]

You do the same thing I do ! Leave lighters and smokes in the pics :bounce:128501

No smokes here....that lighter is for my flex making tool...propane torch. Lol

[TheShaddix]

That makes sense, Keith. Same reason they don't use stainless for really tough tools but instead coat the steel with something to prevent corrosion. But what is a run-out?

[rearwheelin]

Ok I just noticed the blade so there goes that thought ha ha

[kfxguy]

They can/will, but you can prevent that by putting a little oil on them. They are not stainless for a reason, so don't swap them for stainless. Stainless cannot be hardened with the same processes that are typically used for steel bolts due to a low carbon content, so stainless bolts are actually much softer and prone to galling when compared to quality steel bolts. You will find (at least in high power setups) that you will need to get pretty serious when it comes to tightening those bolts.

These collets used to come with bolts that are a little on the short side and swapping them out for longer bolts helped prevent thread failure...I'm not sure if the bolts have been changed since then though, so take a look at yours. They are far superior to the Chinese collets in terms of run-out. All of the cheaper collets have a significant amount of run-out compared to these, which can lead to premature motor failure on high RPM setups.

A few of us with extreme setups have also found that the "fingers" of these collets will twist if the load/torque is great enough. They don't typically fail because of this but it does make the flex difficult to remove/install. If you have this issue, just consider yourself in the "gotta pay if you wanna play" club.:lol:

They seem to have long enough screws in them.

[kfxguy]

Ok I just noticed the blade so there goes that thought ha ha

I have those all over the place. I use 12 of them as shims to line the hatch up for the hatch bolts lol.

[kfxguy]

Mount tacked in place.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/F5D6BB0B-F540-4824-A733-0C03A852CF26.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/F5D6BB0B-F540-4824-A733-0C03A852CF26.jpg.html)


And epoxy flowing

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/63B2243C-6D84-41A3-B99A-DD81C7516A19.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/63B2243C-6D84-41A3-B99A-DD81C7516A19.jpg.html)

[keithbradley]

That makes sense, Keith. Same reason they don't use stainless for really tough tools but instead coat the steel with something to prevent corrosion. But what is a run-out?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Run-out

[TheShaddix]

Oh, i see. This is the problem most drills seem to have when the chuck wobbles or runs out. Thanks Keith, now I know the technical term for this.

Totally off topic and not meaning to clutter the thread, but would anyone happen to know of a high quality cordless drill that has no run-off? What do you guys use to drill precisely?

[kfxguy]

And 4 hours layer we peel the tape while the epoxy is still semi soft

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/BC9D4FE9-0177-423A-9263-01AF0D17F344.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/BC9D4FE9-0177-423A-9263-01AF0D17F344.jpg.html)

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/FABEED7D-E4BA-484B-8E9B-E8A1676B178D.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/FABEED7D-E4BA-484B-8E9B-E8A1676B178D.jpg.html)

[NativePaul]

would anyone happen to know of a high quality cordless drill that has no run-off?

A well set up lathe is the only tool for the job, tailstock drilling slightly undersize then tailstock reaming the hole circular.

You have more chance of re-writing the bible by tipping cans of alphabet spaghetti on the floor than you have making a decent coupling with the best hand drill ever made.

[Mr_3_0_5]

Very clean man I admire your work

[Kaotic]

Motor mount looks good!

[kfxguy]

Motor mount looks good!


Thanks! Be watching this evening. I have a different idea on the stuffing tube mount I'm going to do. Will look better and be stronger

[rearwheelin]

:popcorn2:

[kfxguy]

Didn't get to this as early as I had planned. I did get the pass through for the stuffing tube done tho. I'll have to get up at 2:30 to peel tape lol. I have to wait 4 hours before I can peel tape.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/288F11BD-C707-4D43-A65A-2C7F5E92E634.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/288F11BD-C707-4D43-A65A-2C7F5E92E634.jpg.html)

[TheShaddix]

Is this some special masking tape you're using? Or just generic stuff from Lowes, etc? I find that my epoxy goes right through whatever tape I'm using.

[monojeff]

Looks like frog tape.

[rearwheelin]

That collet is almost as big as the the motor !
128535

[kfxguy]

Is this some special masking tape you're using? Or just generic stuff from Lowes, etc? I find that my epoxy goes right through whatever tape I'm using.

Regular 3m masking tape.

[kfxguy]

And stuffing tube. Carbon tube used as a nice touch. I didn't like the look of gold brass in the boat. Doesn't match anything really. I also feel like the carbon would stop driveline vibration better than brass. Just my theory

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/10C47023-2E3D-4ABD-A4FD-CAB9CFA9953D_1.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/10C47023-2E3D-4ABD-A4FD-CAB9CFA9953D_1.jpg.html)

[kfxguy]

I wanted to add, the 2260 lehner actually fits and the hatch will clear it no problem. I layed the motor a little lower than normal. Just in case I decide to try the 2260 for the heck of it lol. The boat is quite heavy with lust the motor in it tho.

[Luck as a Constant]

hey travis, your pm to me was empty on what you're using to mount stuff.
is it jb weld?
thanks

also, i know you did a thread on tapeless hatch or something. got a link to that?

[kfxguy]

hey travis, your pm to me was empty on what you're using to mount stuff.
is it jb weld?
thanks

also, i know you did a thread on tapeless hatch or something. got a link to that?


No idea why lol. Ok, I use jb weld mixed with powdered graphite to turn it dark gray. Otherwise it's light gray. I've had some pretty violent flips and it hold well. Jb quick holds well too but it sets way too fast so I switched to the jb weld. Tip: put your jb weld down and on low heat with a heat gun go over it, it will flow out and air bubbles will be released (stronger bond). Then while your warming it you can shape it the way you want with a paint brush. Mask off your shape with the yellow or green 3m making tape. It's thicker and comes off cleaner. It's not cheap at 10 bucks but if you use the blue stuff it does not stick well and the tan stuff is thin and does not come off cleanly after it sits for a bit.

The hatch. Hmmm. I've posted it in a few threads. I'll find you some links but I may do a how to on its own about it. There's a coule different ways I do it depending on if I use the short aluminum hatch bolts or the stainless ones.

[kfxguy]

hey travis, your pm to me was empty on what you're using to mount stuff.
is it jb weld?
thanks

also, i know you did a thread on tapeless hatch or something. got a link to that?


No idea why lol. Ok, I use jb weld mixed with powdered graphite to turn it dark gray. Otherwise it's light gray. I've had some pretty violent flips and it hold well. Jb quick holds well too but it sets way too fast so I switched to the jb weld. Tip: put your jb weld down and on low heat with a heat gun go over it, it will flow out and air bubbles will be released (stronger bond). Then while your warming it you can shape it the way you want with a paint brush. Mask off your shape with the yellow or green 3m making tape. It's thicker and comes off cleaner. It's not cheap at 10 bucks but if you use the blue stuff it does not stick well and the tan stuff is thin and does not come off cleanly after it sits for a bit.

The hatch. Hmmm. I've posted it in a few threads. I'll find you some links but I may do a how to on its own about it. There's a coule different ways I do it depending on if I use the short aluminum hatch bolts or the stainless ones.

Heres some links

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?47728-New-build-Rivercat-twins/page3

[dude123]

Im really diggin that cf rod dude!!! is that your housing for the smaller shaft? If you already explained , welll my bad

[kfxguy]

Im really diggin that cf rod dude!!! is that your housing for the smaller shaft? If you already explained , welll my bad


My 1/4 stuffing tube slides into it. There will be a bigger piece of carbon rod epoxied over it. Then I will drill through it and thread the carbon. I will screw a small nipple into it and use that to oil the shaft instead of removing it all the time. Just follow along and you'll see.....

[flraptor07]

Travis, give these KST servos a try. I've been using them for about a year and they work great, plus way smoother and quieter than Savox. They are all rubber sealed and are very water proof although they don't claim it. I have submerged one for a week and hooked it up while submerged and worked it for 30mins. with no issues. This one is 250oz. @7.4v and 208oz. @ 6.0v and .06sec./60deg. @7.4v http://www.ebay.com/itm/KST-DS715MG-HV-Servo-550-700-Size-Helicopter-/111562685011 The Heli guys use them alot and all reviews I've read have been good.

[Kaotic]

I tried the JB Weld on a battery tray that was holding a 6s lipo. I filed in V cuts every .125" on each of the tabs for more surface area, sanded it with 120 grit, wiped down with alcohol let it cure for a few days and it held up great for a couple months, but then crashed at 76mph and most of the JB weld joints failed some ripped from the hull but most as u can see sheared in the middle of the JB Weld joint. Just saying :noidea:

128537128538

[flraptor07]

I tried the JB Weld on a battery tray that was holding a 6s lipo. I filed in V cuts every .125" on each of the tabs for more surface area, sanded it with 120 grit, wiped down with alcohol let it cure for a few days and it held up great for a couple months, but then crashed at 76mph and most of the JB weld joints failed some ripped from the hull but most as u can see sheared in the middle of the JB Weld joint. Just saying :noidea:

128537128538

Looks like the problem was you just bonded on top and edge, not inbetween the tray and the hull. Let's see a pic of the bottom surface of the tray where it meets the hull.. Plus I always use the little oval risers that come with the trays, sand those both sides then epoxy those first then the tray.

[kfxguy]

I tried the JB Weld on a battery tray that was holding a 6s lipo. I filed in V cuts every .125" on each of the tabs for more surface area, sanded it with 120 grit, wiped down with alcohol let it cure for a few days and it held up great for a couple months, but then crashed at 76mph and most of the JB weld joints failed some ripped from the hull but most as u can see sheared in the middle of the JB Weld joint. Just saying :noidea:

128537128538


yea i could definately see that failing. i dont use jb weld on my battery trays. I use a two part epoxy my hobby shop sells. i'll get you a name. I dont use the little spacers either on a build like this. I wedge the tray in betweem the tunnel and outer wall and with a syringe i put epoxy the whole way down the tray and shoot some in spots on the underside. I do them like this in all the cats i build and i think i abuse them (not purposly lol) enough to the point if they were going to detach, they would have. I fully trust the jb on the motor mounts, there is a lot used in that area.

also, 120 grit is way too fine. I see a problem there. I use 60 grit or 40 grit. its green. It puts really deep scratches in it. i also measure my jb on a gram scale to get a perfect mix everytime.

one more thing...if your bonding carbon to fiberglass, jb weld isnt the best choice either. jb sticks to carbon and aluminum extremely well but not so well to fiberglass.

[kfxguy]

Looks like the problem was you just bonded on top and edge, not inbetween the tray and the hull. Let's see a pic of the bottom surface of the tray where it meets the hull.. Plus I always use the little oval risers that come with the trays, sand those both sides then epoxy those first then the tray.

thats how i did them the one and only time i had to use the risers. both sides get roughed with 60 grit. epoxy is also spread out the whole length of the tray. I cut slots in mine and dont wrap the velcro around the tray also..




hey i'm gonna order one of those servos. they look nice. I already ordered the compact one for my river so i'll be using it. I still need one for my shocker so that will work because i have more room.

[Kaotic]

Since then I just use 105/207. In my new build I'm going to use G-Flex. I did wedge it between the two CF surfaces. I'm not trying to say to never use JB I was just really surprised the the joint sheared in the middle of the JB. it didn't really loose grip from the hulk surface. 128540

[Kaotic]

Also this was a bad crash. It ripped the servo mount right off. Broke the rudder assembly cracked the hull a little. I was really experimenting with some different concepts when these roofing guys came down to the pond and where amazed how fast I was going soooooo I felt I had to show off and as I was coming back at full throttle (which I never do that, I always wait for the pond settle down for a minute) I hit my own wake and it stuffed. My heart skipped a beat but my 7 year old son was thrilled watching it crash so all I could do was laugh. It was pretty cool to see though.

[flraptor07]

Travis, I think you'll like those servos, I'm using 6.6v LiFe Rx packs so I'm probably about 230oz. on that servo. They do make a DS2509MG servo that's 347oz. @ 7.4v I use those in my bigger Hydros it's red anodized and silver. http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=en&prev=search&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=zh-CN&u=http://www.kstsz.com/threestyle/kstsz/product/16954386.html&usg=ALkJrhjluXTDc0iJhdtFi30m1XTxlDLkAw

[keithbradley]

I tried the JB Weld on a battery tray that was holding a 6s lipo. I filed in V cuts every .125" on each of the tabs for more surface area, sanded it with 120 grit, wiped down with alcohol let it cure for a few days and it held up great for a couple months, but then crashed at 76mph and most of the JB weld joints failed some ripped from the hull but most as u can see sheared in the middle of the JB Weld joint. Just saying :noidea:

128537128538

JB weld and other epoxies will work to a certain point, but because of it's inability to flex, it can always be broken off. The bigger your boat gets the more apparent this will become in crashes. Large surfaces will flex in crashes on even the strongest hulls, and when the epoxy can't flex along with it, it just cracks. The solution is to use something a bit more pliable. I have some stuff I can send you if you want to use it on your mono.

[kfxguy]

JB weld and other epoxies will work to a certain point, but because of it's inability to flex, it can always be broken off. The bigger your boat gets the more apparent this will become in crashes. Large surfaces will flex in crashes on even the strongest hulls, and when the epoxy can't flex along with it, it just cracks. The solution is to use something a bit more pliable. I have some stuff I can send you if you want to use it on your mono.


Man I came up with something on accident the other day. I bought some black epoxy dye to try....I mixed it in with jb weld and it stayed flexible. Well not not rubber but I put a mix of untouched jb next to it and let both cure. The jb was super hard and I could not bend it at all. Then the mix with the dye, I could bend it a little. I might be on to something accidentally for stuff that needs a semi flexible bond. Hmmm

[keithbradley]

Man I came up with something on accident the other day. I bought some black epoxy dye to try....I mixed it in with jb weld and it stayed flexible. Well not not rubber but I put a mix of untouched jb next to it and let both cure. The jb was super hard and I could not bend it at all. Then the mix with the dye, I could bend it a little. I might be on to something accidentally for stuff that needs a semi flexible bond. Hmmm

Interesting. How much dye did you put in it? With most of those dyes you could literally dip a toothpick into the dye, dip it into your mixture, and stir. If you put a lot, maybe that's why it had an effect on the hardness.

[rearwheelin]

Nothing in my opinion holds two surfaces better than JB . It's all about the what your trying to bond. It does like bigger surface areas that are being joined . It's what I use on my mounts but I make sure it has the biggest surface possible for bonding. Once setup it's hard to beet .

[kfxguy]

Interesting. How much dye did you put in it? With most of those dyes you could literally dip a toothpick into the dye, dip it into your mixture, and stir. If you put a lot, maybe that's why it had an effect on the hardness.


Yea I think that's how I found this out. I put 3 or 4 drops in it lol.

[flraptor07]

I mix milled Carbon Fiber (made myself) with 30min. Z-poxy and I've never had anything break loose with that mixture. Don't use it if you think you might ever want to take it back apart someday, or if you do you'll have to cut it apart.

[kfxguy]

Look fellas, need some experienced advice/opinions. I want a sponson water pick up instead of rudder pick up. I've heardits more drag, less drag, same drag. I don't want to do anything that would lose me mph. I plan on making a thinner stainless rudder. So my main question is with a bottom sponson pickup and a thinner rudder would I be faster or at least the same?

[flraptor07]

I doubt there's any difference in a rudder pickup or a sponson pickup. The difference would come in with a sponson or rudder pickup and a tube type transom mounted pickup. If you didn't want to do a sponson pickup or a rudder pickup, I think the next least amount of drag would be a prop wash pickup.

[flraptor07]

I've also done this pickup location that worked real nice if you're using a strut. 128542

[monojeff]

I'd use a prop wash pickup. Done deal KISS no drag no issues.

[kfxguy]

I was trying to get rid of the outside hose too

[TheShaddix]

Think of it this way, your boat is flying at 90 mph with the hull barely touching the water and the only drag is coming from the rudder which isn't much, overall it's like an airplane on water, that's what makes cats so great - the lack of drag. But then you introduce some vertical tube (even with a slanted edge) sticking out of the hull. Common sense suggests it would cause drag. And not only that, but it can affect your stability too when the hull/sponson lifts off and then comes back down, and instead of just smoothly gliding on the surface, the water will catch that pickup of yours. On top of that, it doesn't look that clean aesthetically.

Why not just do flush hull pickups, two on each side for motor and esc? Really easy and gets a LOT of water through. I do those even on mono hulls. They get no drag to speak of and look clean and are super easy to make.

[rearwheelin]

My vote for rudder pickup ! Less bubbles equal better cooling !

[Fella1340]

Travis, just joining in here. Insane motor choice, just crazy. I like it! I think sponson water pickups would be best, eliminate the outside tubing will really clean it up. As far as the other styles of pickups, some look better than others, the word "drag" really seems to get overused. With all the power you have I doubt any style of pickup would noticeably affect speed or handling. I like the stainless steel rudder idea. I have a good selection of 440c stainless and some of the more exotic types I use for knife making. My heat treatment furnace finally gave up and I have yet to replace it so heat treating one for you is out. I could send you some 440c in 3/32" and 1/8" (possibly 1/16" to)if you want to really make an ultra rigid rudder. You'd have to find someone local for heat treating. 440c stainless is pretty straightforward to heat treatment and shouldn't cost more than $10-$15. A good source state side for all your stainless needs is admiral steel. I have a couple blades I already made up somewhere around here. Rigid is putting it lightly! Of course a quality stainless knife blade can be used. Cheap knives just don't compare though. Pm me if you'd like some. I think you'd see some gains from the effort. You should use black epoxy pigment in your jb weld or west systems stuff. Getting everything black will really make things look cleaner inside. I use 2-3 drops for 3 ounces of epoxy, it goes a long way. You could always skim coat what you've already done. It's the one thing that I can think of to really make things look better. I agree the extra weight will help you stay on the water, not like your going to run out of power!! Excellent job, keep the build logs coming!

[rickwess]

Yea I think that's how I found this out. I put 3 or 4 drops in it lol.

GFlex works great for bonding. It's STRONG and as its name suggests it has some flex to it. You can use additives to eliminate sag as well as tint it.

[kfxguy]

Travis, just joining in here. Insane motor choice, just crazy. I like it! I think sponson water pickups would be best, eliminate the outside tubing will really clean it up. As far as the other styles of pickups, some look better than others, the word "drag" really seems to get overused. With all the power you have I doubt any style of pickup would noticeably affect speed or handling. I like the stainless steel rudder idea. I have a good selection of 440c stainless and some of the more exotic types I use for knife making. My heat treatment furnace finally gave up and I have yet to replace it so heat treating one for you is out. I could send you some 440c in 3/32" and 1/8" (possibly 1/16" to)if you want to really make an ultra rigid rudder. You'd have to find someone local for heat treating. 440c stainless is pretty straightforward to heat treatment and shouldn't cost more than $10-$15. A good source state side for all your stainless needs is admiral steel. I have a couple blades I already made up somewhere around here. Rigid is putting it lightly! Of course a quality stainless knife blade can be used. Cheap knives just don't compare though. Pm me if you'd like some. I think you'd see some gains from the effort. You should use black epoxy pigment in your jb weld or west systems stuff. Getting everything black will really make things look cleaner inside. I use 2-3 drops for 3 ounces of epoxy, it goes a long way. You could always skim coat what you've already done. It's the one thing that I can think of to really make things look better. I agree the extra weight will help you stay on the water, not like your going to run out of power!! Excellent job, keep the build logs coming!

Thx. I actually had to sand the stuffing tube epoxy and skim coat it because it was a good bit darker. Easier to do that than the motor mount. I was getting ready to sell the hull and start over had it not turn out right. I'm just too picky.

My father in law has a heat treat oven so I may take you up on a blade or two. I just ordered so west systems so I'll be trying it on the shocker and cheetah.

Before:

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/Mobile%20Uploads/0002-11/10C47023-2E3D-4ABD-A4FD-CAB9CFA9953D.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0002-11/10C47023-2E3D-4ABD-A4FD-CAB9CFA9953D.jpg.html)


After.


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/19729C31-C0C4-4BA5-B551-CA95101AE55A.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/19729C31-C0C4-4BA5-B551-CA95101AE55A.jpg.html)

[srislash]

That is looking real good Travis, I am looking forward to this one running. 100 on maiden? I am kidding of course but if anyone could, I would place money on ya.

[kfxguy]

That is looking real good Travis, I am looking forward to this one running. 100 on maiden? I am kidding of course but if anyone could, I would place money on ya.


Thx! It'll definatly get there. Truth be told, if I finish the boat before my 2250 arrives then I'll throw a 1521 in it and see how it runs. I'm paying more attention to details and mating efforts to cut drag where I can so it should be a touch faster than my other one.

Not sure this makes much of a difference but look how much smoother this one is. This is the stuffing tube exit.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/22DDD9A5-A892-4B10-8EB8-F8718B080027.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/22DDD9A5-A892-4B10-8EB8-F8718B080027.jpg.html)

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/5FD95035-117C-4521-82AE-C846F83CA1C0.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/5FD95035-117C-4521-82AE-C846F83CA1C0.jpg.html)

[srislash]

Very nice, all the 'minute' little things that help in the end can suck up the time. Meticulous is the catch word.

[kfxguy]

Cap bank made while I had some down time.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/7DBC1BBE-8D24-4DE0-B2F2-312898B7C5FA.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/7DBC1BBE-8D24-4DE0-B2F2-312898B7C5FA.jpg.html)


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/4868258F-7945-4C85-A361-1B4F23525914.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/4868258F-7945-4C85-A361-1B4F23525914.jpg.html)


And waterproofed.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/617F9972-2944-4EA6-85C3-A9DF3593B4CC.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/617F9972-2944-4EA6-85C3-A9DF3593B4CC.jpg.html)

[kfxguy]

I didn't get to work on it much in the past few days. I had a hole rot out in my roof from the idiots who built my house...they nailed through the driver vent when installing it and cracked it. Didn't dawn on them to seal it so it's been leaking a little over the past couple years and rotten a section of my roof. Nice. So I cut it out and replaced it with new wood.

On a positive note, I got a shipping notice on my steering servo. Only thing I'm waiting on now is battery trays.

[rearwheelin]

Very nice cap bank :thumbup:

[kfxguy]

Very nice cap bank :thumbup:

Thanks! What do you think about that monster sitting next to it?

[rearwheelin]

It might do better than a T180 :noidea: :bounce:

[kfxguy]

It might do better than a T180 :noidea: :bounce:

It might but it's my buddy's esc. Lol. I'll be getting one very soon.

[rearwheelin]

Sounds like a good tester :lol:

[kfxguy]

Servo came in today. Very nice! This is the first expensive spectrum servo I've ever bought so I'm not sure how good it'll be. It's got 174 oz-in tq and it specifically says it's got tight gears and a tight dead band. Just what I want to have no slack. O and it's waterproof. Too bad it's 23 spline and all I have is 25 spline futaba arms. Ugh. So I just ordered an arm for it. My battery trays are on back order so mono Jeff is custom making me some. They should fit the boat perfect and be very nice.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/D280AEDB-E031-479B-BE68-8D5691DB95B3.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/D280AEDB-E031-479B-BE68-8D5691DB95B3.jpg.html)

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/C61226F9-259E-429A-931F-06F483F0377B.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/C61226F9-259E-429A-931F-06F483F0377B.jpg.html)

[flraptor07]

looks nice, did you get one of those KSTs too?

[kfxguy]

looks nice, did you get one of those KSTs too?

Not yet. I will soon tho. It's for the shocker. I got too many irons in the fire right now lol.

[flraptor07]

Is that top plate aluminum too or black plastic?

[kfxguy]

Is that top plate aluminum too or black plastic?

Plastic

[kfxguy]

Tonight I mounted the strut assy, made the stuffing tube and added an oiler fitting. I did some different things on this. In the stuffing tube I added some brass sleeves every inch or so to help support the flex a little more. I've been wanting to try this. My theory behind it is putting support in a few different places may cut down on vibration and any whip that may or may not happen. The sleeves are soldered in place. For some reason if it don't work, the stuffing tube is removable. Just experimenting for a smoother driveline without using Teflon. We wil see.

Tho oiler. I epoxied the next bigger size carbon tube over the carbon pass through tube to give a little thickness so I can thread the carbon for a nipple then epoxy and screw it in. Of course I put a slot in the stuffing so oil can get to the flex. It's sealed on both sides of the slot with honda bond. Check it out.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/02D2EDB8-9E34-487B-9C28-F96B9D772E76.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/02D2EDB8-9E34-487B-9C28-F96B9D772E76.jpg.html)


And of course a cap to keep oil from flinging out of it

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/B66F925D-3939-4F62-9EB5-42644386B385.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/B66F925D-3939-4F62-9EB5-42644386B385.jpg.html)

[flraptor07]

Lookin awsome Travis, I think the sleeve deal in the stuffing tube should work good, anytime you take up excessive clearance it should be better and the spaces in between will help keep the lubricant in better. I would bet it'll be quieter and smoother running. Exactly what tube sizes are you using? I've been using a flaired strut bushing at the top end for a while now in all my builds.

[kfxguy]

Lookin awsome Travis, I think the sleeve deal in the stuffing tube should work good, anytime you take up excessive clearance it should be better and the spaces in between will help keep the lubricant in better. I would bet it'll be quieter and smoother running. Exactly what tube sizes are you using? I've been using a flaired strut bushing at the top end for a while now in all my builds.

I think it'll cut vibration too. Main reason I did it. I have no way of proving that under load it has vibration or not but at 48k rpm I'm sure anything will help lol.

I use 1/4 tube that the flex goes in and I use 7/32 for bushings. I've been putting a 1" piece in the end towards the flex. I don't like slop there.

[kfxguy]

Esc cover and mount. I really need to get my CNC machine going. Things like this would be much easier then making by hand. Guess I'll mess with it tonight.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/A53F60E5-C6F4-48F5-BB0A-7738D2E10F94.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/A53F60E5-C6F4-48F5-BB0A-7738D2E10F94.jpg.html)


Of course I have to make the stand offs shorter, but you get the idea. Looks pretty familiar....I loved the way the Daytona turned out so...

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/3971F865-79B6-4BF1-AC6C-6911BD73D0B6.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/3971F865-79B6-4BF1-AC6C-6911BD73D0B6.jpg.html)

[paDDY]

So sick! Your boats are so killer. Keep the boat pics coming please.

[kfxguy]

So sick! Your boats are so killer. Keep the boat pics coming please.

Thanks buddy! Hope your happy with your rebuild. I think it came out pretty nice.

[kfxguy]

Well something worth doing is worth over doing, right? Well I drilled a hole in the ride pad so if be forced to do a water pickup there. Didn't like the store bought one. Looked like it would pick up ten gallons a minute of water (exaggerating but still lol) and I didnt want to add more drag. Took Keith's advice and made my own that wasn't overkill. For comparison....regular rudder pickup and store bought pickup

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/FD4C76E9-2F04-4327-B947-A8C93FD47245.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/FD4C76E9-2F04-4327-B947-A8C93FD47245.jpg.html)

First idea was to do this. Then I realized it was too short.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/792A1FEF-739B-4990-9E64-1316D517517F_1.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/792A1FEF-739B-4990-9E64-1316D517517F_1.jpg.html)


Time to make something else.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/706BC313-7848-428C-9598-A0F9C8F17826.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/706BC313-7848-428C-9598-A0F9C8F17826.jpg.html)

[kfxguy]

So after figuring out it may not be easy to get the cooling hose on I decided to change it a little.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/10930CBC-F011-47CB-B421-4526154C0325.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/10930CBC-F011-47CB-B421-4526154C0325.jpg.html)

And mocking it up

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/414FCF5E-8522-4622-8189-EDF9D54503DA.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/414FCF5E-8522-4622-8189-EDF9D54503DA.jpg.html)


And epoxied in. I figured how to tint the epoxy black and still retain its strength.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/3453E5F5-6580-48D3-9C61-6D6CE7551A24.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/3453E5F5-6580-48D3-9C61-6D6CE7551A24.jpg.html)

[kfxguy]

Tape peeled

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/01923E22-1F5A-4439-985B-E7EF957920F6.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/01923E22-1F5A-4439-985B-E7EF957920F6.jpg.html)

[rearwheelin]

I had a dual pickup rudder that supplied 4 T180's and it would still blow hoses until I choked down the hose barbs on the rudder(filled in with solder and drilled smaller) . That pickup looks scary to me for the speeds you run:noidea:

[kfxguy]

I had a dual pickup rudder that supplied 4 T180's and it would still blow hoses until I choked down the hose barbs on the rudder(filled in with solder and drilled smaller) . That pickup looks scary to me for the speeds you run:noidea:

You talking about the big one? That's why I'm not using it. The one I made has a much smaller hole.

[kfxguy]

It the esc mounted. Waiting on caps I ordered. I was going to do a cap bank of 4 but decided to do 6 instead. I'll use the cap bank on something else.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/77641B17-EFFB-46EE-A2B8-FFBA180A704D.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/77641B17-EFFB-46EE-A2B8-FFBA180A704D.jpg.html)

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/5AB7AE5F-1D40-4AEE-AA48-0075BCDB723D.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/5AB7AE5F-1D40-4AEE-AA48-0075BCDB723D.jpg.html)


And juuuuuust in case the castle doesn't last I thought ahead and made the mount fit something else

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/175D16DA-F474-4709-A2C0-D72DABC84F3B.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/175D16DA-F474-4709-A2C0-D72DABC84F3B.jpg.html)

[TheShaddix]

Is the water pickup tube only on one side? And how does it look on the underside? I hope it's not just the tube sticking out!

[kfxguy]

Is the water pickup tube only on one side? And how does it look on the underside? I hope it's not just the tube sticking out!

Yes I'm only using one. I'm waiting on the epoxy to cure and then I'll cut it off flush and block sand the sponsons. It is in there at a fairly sharp angle even tho it may not look it in the pic. I'll finish it this evening.

[flraptor07]

Those water pickups are nice, I don't know what you got into making them but I'm sure you could sell them if you made a couple dozen or so...I'd be good for a few.

[kfxguy]

Those water pickups are nice, I don't know what you got into making them but I'm sure you could sell them if you made a couple dozen or so...I'd be good for a few.

Thanks! They may not be real user friendly to install but if you want some I can make you some.

[flraptor07]

Thanks! They may not be real user friendly to install but if you want some I can make you some.

I'll take 4 of them, let me know what ya gotta have for them..

[kfxguy]

I'll take 4 of them, let me know what ya gotta have for them..

Alright. i have to see if i have (4) 90 degree fittings. you want straight or 90?

BTW, youll owe me nothing for them. I didnt forget you sent me some rudder blades a while back. :)

[kfxguy]

I made an order with ose today. Bought some more 90 degree fittings

[rearwheelin]

Your the BOMB Travis !

Sincerely Your Cheerleader :beerchug:

[flraptor07]

I made an order with ose today. Bought some more 90 degree fittings

Cool bro, 90s will be fine! THANX!!

[kfxguy]

Your the BOMB Travis !

Sincerely Your Cheerleader :beerchug:

Lmao! Thx!

[kfxguy]

Here's the pickup finished. Turned out better than I thought!

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/E6527258-6A0F-40A2-9B77-736A42700525.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/E6527258-6A0F-40A2-9B77-736A42700525.jpg.html)

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/DF9D2926-2256-4723-AC6D-C6BFAE1D21B2.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/DF9D2926-2256-4723-AC6D-C6BFAE1D21B2.jpg.html)

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/8B6A74B7-5556-4344-BF2C-D0CF5993306D.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/8B6A74B7-5556-4344-BF2C-D0CF5993306D.jpg.html)

[Luck as a Constant]

Looks killer. :yesway:


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[flraptor07]

Very nice travis, those will work nice.

[srislash]

That looks very clean Trav. Well done and good idea.

[Fella1340]

Nice job on the pickup, any chance seeing how it looks inside the boat?

[kfxguy]

Nice job on the pickup, any chance seeing how it looks inside the boat?


This?

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/01923E22-1F5A-4439-985B-E7EF957920F6.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/01923E22-1F5A-4439-985B-E7EF957920F6.jpg.html)

[kfxguy]

Got some updates. I decided to go ahead and make sure the sponsons were flat. They were hooked a little. Straight now...

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/E126C605-C087-4777-96D1-6DA31FC5D623.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/E126C605-C087-4777-96D1-6DA31FC5D623.jpg.html)


My servo arms came in today. I couldnt decide between black or polished so I ordered both.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/3BB64D41-A618-4BD3-B325-D5A20256521C.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/3BB64D41-A618-4BD3-B325-D5A20256521C.jpg.html)

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/C58078B5-EDA8-4E84-A7F4-55D9A7ACA630.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/C58078B5-EDA8-4E84-A7F4-55D9A7ACA630.jpg.html)

[kfxguy]

Here's the silver

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/F193C40F-6843-4B8F-B770-5E8ADF62F251.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/F193C40F-6843-4B8F-B770-5E8ADF62F251.jpg.html)


Then I ran into a snafu. The fitting in the right is too short to go through my thick reinforced transom. So I had to make something on my lathe to work. Drilled the hole already at this point. This is where my steering linkage passes through.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/97A6037B-2462-4D19-8DA2-1AB93FA8B4DB.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/97A6037B-2462-4D19-8DA2-1AB93FA8B4DB.jpg.html)


And installed.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/890B0D72-19B5-4109-9289-8FD7991D461E.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/890B0D72-19B5-4109-9289-8FD7991D461E.jpg.html)

[kfxguy]

Then I ran into another problem. I made up the linkage rod. Because I had a few bands in it, it would flex particularly in the pass through area. I even went through the trouble of ordering 3/32" stainless rod which is really stiff (nobrust either) but it still flexed. I tried to heat treat it. Didn't work. So what do I do? After a little thought and looking at where the flex was....I decided to made the pass through hole smaller. Mid I use metal it may be noisy and rough, so I made a nylon insert. The insert does not let the rod flex at this point....which is the only point it was flexing....it's now unbelievable how it has literally no slack.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/6F3C3BBF-1238-45F4-9A09-019DB5B5800E.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/6F3C3BBF-1238-45F4-9A09-019DB5B5800E.jpg.html)

[srislash]

And sealed better

[kfxguy]

And sealed better

It's not really sealed right there. There is about a .010 gap but there's a boot that goes over the fitting not shown. Positive side is if the boot gets torn, it will take much longer to fill with water. I'll be doing this for now on. I just ordered some nylon rod

[rearwheelin]

You should try Titanium turn buckles by Hanger9 . I'm using a 5" 4-40 one on mine . You can bend them a little to if need be.129003

[kfxguy]

You should try Titanium turn buckles by Hanger9 . I'm using a 5" 4-40 one on mine . You can bend them a little to if need be.129003

That would be great but the length of the rod is bout 9" and has several bends. In a mono or cheetah where you have easy acces and a straight shot possible to the rudder, that would work well.

[rearwheelin]

They have long ones ! 7", 6" , 5" clear down to 1 1/2" or 2". You could put them together with a small collar .

[kfxguy]

They have long ones ! 7", 6" , 5" clear down to 1 1/2" or 2". You could put them together with a small collar .

What if I just buy some 3mm titanium rod? It does not need to be threaded. Would that be stiffer than the 3/32 (2.381mm is what it converts to) stainless rod I'm using from k&s metals?

[rearwheelin]

I have made stiffer rods just by sleeving steel rod with cf tubing bonded in place. The shorter linkage no worries with these turn buckles.

I looked at the 2 props I got from you finally . They are nicely done ! Not overly thinned and sharp ! Good job . I'm sure your even better now lol

[kfxguy]

I have made stiffer rods just by sleeving steel rod with cf tubing bonded in place. The shorter linkage no worries with these turn buckles.

I looked at the 2 props I got from you finally . They are nicely done ! Not overly thinned and sharp ! Good job . I'm sure your even better now lol

I am lol. Ive been getting dasboata to do most of my props here lately because I havent had time. Takes me way too long to do one and i get bored easily. I did consider the cf sleeve thing but that would likely not be an elagant solution for me as the straight part that needs stiffening protrudes outside the boot. What ive done as of now is actually a very good solution and its simple and works very well. I have literally no flex.

[srislash]

They have long ones ! 7", 6" , 5" clear down to 1 1/2" or 2". You could put them together with a small collar .

Sorry to interject here fellas but where are these longer rods? I found up to 5" which just may do me but...

[rearwheelin]

I am lol. Ive been getting dasboata to do most of my props here lately because I havent had time. Takes me way too long to do one and i get bored easily. I did consider the cf sleeve thing but that would likely not be an elagant solution for me as the straight part that needs stiffening protrudes outside the boot. What ive done as of now is actually a very good solution and its simple and works very well. I have literally no flex.
Right on !

I guess he can do mine too !

[rearwheelin]

Sorry to interject here fellas but where are these longer rods? I found up to 5" which just may do me but...

I get them at my local shop.... I checked there site and it only said 5" so I would call them and find out because I'm certain I seen longer ones.

[kfxguy]

I'm so excited. My battery trays came in today. I worked with Monojeff on designing some trays that would be CNC cut and fit perfectly. He did a excellent job and had them to me with the quickness!


Store bought on left....too wide to fit the Rivercat.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/F5ED5917-45ED-4250-90EE-751A32D6616D.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/F5ED5917-45ED-4250-90EE-751A32D6616D.jpg.html)

[rearwheelin]

Those look good !

[rearwheelin]

Sorry to interject here fellas but where are these longer rods? I found up to 5" which just may do me but...

Try Great Plains :)
129827

[srislash]

Try Great Plains :)
129827
Thank you
Are those the 6 1/2" ones on the left? Tuff finding these 'in stock'. I may be in touch if I need them.

[littlepooper206]

On your sponsons did you just wetsand them to get them a bit straiter?

[kfxguy]

On your sponsons did you just wetsand them to get them a bit straiter?

Yes, I made them completely flat. 400 grit

[kfxguy]

Well I went to do my hatch bolts the other day and realized I don't have a fiberglass hatch for it. If I do, I can't find it. So I ordered a couple and my buddy down the road had one so he brought it to me. I'm still waiting on my motor so I have a 4s motor I'm going to put in it. I'm actually going to build a 4s saw version of this boat with a goal of 75-80 on 4s. I'm impatient and want to see how this setup will fair although this boat is a good bit heavier than the one I'll build for 4s duty. Still will be interesting. I got my collet and rear support ring in yesterday for this motor setup so it may be running this weekend. Hoping to go maiden voyage on a couple boats at the same time.

[srislash]

I'm watching buddy, it'll take a few amps at 4s to get the job done. What's the plan?

[kfxguy]

I'm watching buddy, it'll take a few amps at 4s to get the job done. What's the plan?

Well I've got a high kv competition wind neu 1521. The esc for now is a castle 240 with a nice cap bank. Wires will be as short as possible. For now (because the way it's wired because this esc is set up really for 6s and 7s) I'll be using (2) 2s 5500 70c revos for mild testing. If I burn up this esc (don't care really) I'm getting an mgm for it anyway. And for the dedicated 4s boat it will have a higher amp version esc and two 4s packs will be run in parrallel to handle the higher amp load better. I am going to start out with an x642 and data log it so I'll know where I'm at with it.

[kfxguy]

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/0C462AE0-87B8-4086-B67E-8E2688F4CD01.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/0C462AE0-87B8-4086-B67E-8E2688F4CD01.jpg.html)

[kfxguy]

Figured out a way to turn the jb weld black and give it a beautiful shiney look.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/F73DC507-3560-4614-AC63-CAC2B223714F.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/F73DC507-3560-4614-AC63-CAC2B223714F.jpg.html)http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/E3DFB97E-2869-4512-962D-BFC5C44781B8.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/E3DFB97E-2869-4512-962D-BFC5C44781B8.jpg.html)

[kfxguy]

Well this boat is finished. All that's left is Velcro. Bench tested, everything works fine. The pics you see above are the completed state. No wires are visible for a clean look. I put the other lehner Rivercat on hold for a bit so I can experiment on mine and apply some things to it. Glad I did, I've got a few things to make his nicer. Anyway, not sure on the maiden but stay tuned.

[Luck as a Constant]

Figured out a way to turn the jb weld black and give it a beautiful shiney look.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/F73DC507-3560-4614-AC63-CAC2B223714F.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/F73DC507-3560-4614-AC63-CAC2B223714F.jpg.html)http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/E3DFB97E-2869-4512-962D-BFC5C44781B8.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/E3DFB97E-2869-4512-962D-BFC5C44781B8.jpg.html)




Well, that looks awesome
:Yesway:


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[srislash]

Yes sir, looks very nice. I like the tunability of having those long trays.

[kfxguy]

Thank you sir. I try. :)

[kfxguy]

Yes sir, looks very nice. I like the tunability of having those long trays.


I do those in all my builds. I've had to move batteries further up front the faster I go.

[srislash]

I do those in all my builds. I've had to move batteries further up front the faster I go.

I have found it is a big diff in CG from 80-90 & 90-100. Huge. Going to be a bit of a task to tune my fast cat down.
Maybe I should just keep going, whatcha think Trav? I still have a few props to try. ;-)

[Nomad]

What is the length on your battery trays?

[kfxguy]

I have found it is a big diff in CG from 80-90 & 90-100. Huge. Going to be a bit of a task to tune my fast cat down.
Maybe I should just keep going, whatcha think Trav? I still have a few props to try. ;-)


Ima keep going. My goal with the Rivercat is 105 and the mono is 100. I'll settle with 95 on the mono however. I do have some more tricks up my sleeve so I'm not quite done yet.

[kfxguy]

What is the length on your battery trays?

They are 12" long. I sent the material to Monojeff and he cut them out for me.

[kfxguy]

Got everything completed. Painted the top last night too. I used a pearlized water based airbrush color from createx. I did some research online and found out you can clear over it and it will be like a base coat clear coat system. The color is so fine looking in person, it flip flops colors. I cleared it with limco automotive clear tonight. I've never mixed up true clear coat and sprayed it before. I've been doing single stage paints which don't look as good or hold up as good. N the sun it ought to really pop. I know some of you guys don't care for a painted top, I don't much either but I had to do something. I may figure out a simple paint scheme for it eventually so the top and hull will match.

131135


This is before clear coat

131136


131137

[rearwheelin]

Looks like "Chronic Green " . But better !

[srislash]

Got everything completed. Painted the top last night too. I used a pearlized water based airbrush color from createx. I did some research online and found out you can clear over it and it will be like a base coat clear coat system. The color is so fine looking in person, it flip flops colors. I cleared it with limco automotive clear tonight. I've never mixed up true clear coat and sprayed it before. I've been doing single stage paints which don't look as good or hold up as good. N the sun it ought to really pop. I know some of you guys don't care for a painted top, I don't much either but I had to do something. I may figure out a simple paint scheme for it eventually so the top and hull will match.

131135


This is before clear coat

131136


131137

Ah C,mon, The boat has to be PURDY

[Tamelesstgr]

Truly impressive, I love the honeycomb CF inlay

[kfxguy]

Thanks! Here's the top, I took a pic this morning before heading to work. The clear has dried. Looks beautiful! Pics do no justice.

131138

[Tamelesstgr]

Have you thought about getting the running hardware anodized or powdercoated black? I think that would really finish off the look of that beast.

[kfxguy]

Have you thought about getting the running hardware anodized or powdercoated black? I think that would really finish off the look of that beast.

I actually have a powder coating setup (I'm pretty good at it too) but getting the sharp edge of the rudder without making it dull or thicker would be a challenge. It may be something I might do but use a carbon rudder. Hmmmmm

[kfxguy]

Here's with the windshield. What if I airbrush Rivercat or fightercat on the sides the same color as the hatch? I have masking templates in the right font.


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/5B4FF481-CCB8-4D0C-BC5E-651E0D1BE7C5.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/5B4FF481-CCB8-4D0C-BC5E-651E0D1BE7C5.jpg.html)

[rearwheelin]

What if I airbrush Rivercat or fightercat on the sides the same color as the hatch? I have masking templates in the right font.


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/5B4FF481-CCB8-4D0C-BC5E-651E0D1BE7C5.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/5B4FF481-CCB8-4D0C-BC5E-651E0D1BE7C5.jpg.html)
I think that would look very good !

[SloHD]

I'm dusting off my old Popeye, lurking the forum, and thinking about finishing the build. I noticed you like to go the extra mile on blacking things out. I dyed my castle connectors black when I started my build. The only trouble was it took a lot of sessions with fresh dye. I used the powdered dyed. I think I'll give them a session of two again since its been so long.

131159

[kfxguy]

I'm dusting off my old Popeye, lurking the forum, and thinking about finishing the build. I noticed you like to go the extra mile on blacking things out. I dyed my castle connectors black when I started my build. The only trouble was it took a lot of sessions with fresh dye. I used the powdered dyed. I think I'll give them a session of two again since its been so long.

131159

Not a bad idea!

[kfxguy]

So tell me what you think of this. I painted this with water base in a hurry. It's messed up but if you don't zoom in it gives you an idea what it looks like. Input? The fightercat head was masked off and the carbon show through.



http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/4B7B8BF9-9A48-4FB1-895A-4D3BCE650B4A.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/4B7B8BF9-9A48-4FB1-895A-4D3BCE650B4A.jpg.html)

[tlandauer]

Love it, especially how the green tapers toward the front, really great conceptualization on your part!

[kfxguy]

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/FC5295BC-CA0C-404C-98CE-91CC1103B81F.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/FC5295BC-CA0C-404C-98CE-91CC1103B81F.jpg.html)



http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/6DA4B38C-5198-4668-9951-3D6139D26CDA_1.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/6DA4B38C-5198-4668-9951-3D6139D26CDA_1.jpg.html)

[tlandauer]

Sorry i got ahead of you, l like it because it presents the front deck in a very lean and purposeful way, fitting for the speed you have.

[kfxguy]

Sorry i got ahead of you, l like it because it presents the front deck in a very lean and purposeful way, fitting for the speed you have.

No worries! So youbthonkni should paint it this way? Everyone I've showed it to, liked it. So far. Lol. Some people, green may not be their thing and I get that. I'll probably never sell it anyway. So I may go ahead and do it.

[tlandauer]

You know, it is as simple as arranging some lines and IMO you hit it right, it really lines out the deck and it looks fast, I like it. I must also admit that originally I wasn't used to the green, but after seeing it for awhile, I think it is a good combination with black especially CF.
If you don't mind, I can't resist to steal some of this idea in the future. lol.....

[srislash]

Yup, I like the bold green Travis. I love the colour yet never seem to think it appropriate anywhere. But you always seem to make it pop

[kfxguy]

Thanks fellas! Do know that it doesn't match perfectly because I have to lay a white base down first. I'll do a primer white. I just ordered a pint of paint so I can do it right. Not sure if I'm going to clear coat the whole boat or not. I have some templates that say fightercat for the sides but i think I'd rather it say Rivercat. Guess I need to hit Jeff up lol

[mattf1000]

A bright green and black always work. That looks awesome

[flraptor07]

That looks awsome Travis, now it ties the hatch in with the rest of the boat!!:thumbup:

[nata2run]

Looks cool dude, I think any color and raw CF is a winner! As mentioned in earlier post, some stripes and logos would do nicely.

[kfxguy]

That looks awsome Travis, now it ties the hatch in with the rest of the boat!!:thumbup:

Thanks! That was the whole thought. The hatch looks good on its own but just didn't go with the boat

[Fella1340]

Liking it! Rivercat in green down the side is a good idea.

[kfxguy]

Hatch bolts came in. I talked to Monojeff about my templates today and he's taking care of that for me. Hopefully paint it next weekend. I'll probably maiden it this week if it ever stops raining.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/98B3D3DF-A84A-4C04-A4A8-105673ECCB1D.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/98B3D3DF-A84A-4C04-A4A8-105673ECCB1D.jpg.html)

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/09D41FFD-9839-44E0-8E01-97E759E5751A.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/09D41FFD-9839-44E0-8E01-97E759E5751A.jpg.html)

[kfxguy]

Maiden run today. 6s. No adjustments. Threw in water and go. Lol.


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/ltzguy/EFEC38FC-A0C3-4C7F-AD97-EE599591B356.jpg (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/ltzguy/media/EFEC38FC-A0C3-4C7F-AD97-EE599591B356.jpg.html)

[Roy Van De Sande]

Not bad at all! How were the temperatures?

[kfxguy]

Not bad at all! How were the temperatures?

I'm very nervous about this Esc in it. It's very much experimental. It's that mamba xl2 I converted to water cooling. I didn't hammer on it from a dead stop but I did drive it around a bit to make sure everything was good. Made a few passes and felt everything after every run. Nothing was even warm to the touch. Had anything been warm I would have put the temp gum on it. I just remembered this Esc data logs so I'm going to pull the logs tonight.

[srislash]

Well done Trav, I'll be curious as to what the Castle logs say. Remember to set pole count and KV in the logging :doh:

[kfxguy]

Well done Trav, I'll be curious as to what the Castle logs say. Remember to set pole count and KV in the logging :doh:

True true....I haven't used the castle logger in quite a while so thanks for the reminder. We should be in the 100's this weekend. Got my fingers crossed. Everything was toned down for the first few passes. I'm pretty stoked.

[srislash]

Well make sure you enjoy buddy, funny how time slows down at those speeds. Or at least when you look at the logs it seems that way I find. It's like 'really??? That was only 1.5 seconds!'

[kfxguy]

Well make sure you enjoy buddy, funny how time slows down at those speeds. Or at least when you look at the logs it seems that way I find. It's like 'really??? That was only 1.5 seconds!'

I know. Wish I could have videoed it yesterday. Son didn't want to go. But it don't matter really, looks the same as all my other videos anyway...just the lehner sounds a little different. It sounds like it's not even trying and I could tell by the sound that the prop is too deep and it's running really wet. I'm super surprised it went that fast like that. I'm gonna tune it in on 6s. I feel confident it's got 93-95 in it on 6s. Then I'll prop down to a 445 and run it on 7s like I set it up for. Should be interesting.

[kfxguy]

Just to let you guys know, I started a new thread on the maiden. I just pulled the data logs from the Esc and I like what I see. The link to that thread and a pic of the log is there if you wanna check it out.


http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?51401-Project-Fast-cat-maiden-run&p=625015#post625015