Fightercat Cheetah Twin Build Question

[Finest Racing]

Hello, I am building a Fightercat Cheetah. I did a carbon fiber inlay this week and also did the chopped carbon fiber into the sponsons. The area I am stumped is the location of the rudder in relation to the props. I have attached a picture of the stinger resting against the boat and I am holding the rudder. From all the reading and pictures of Cheetah builds, I have seen the props between the boat and the rudder. Any suggestions? Anyone try this? I am building the boat to race in NAMBA P Offshore. Thank you
Would the rudder have any effect in the performance of the props or the performance of the boat since it is only an inch away from the boat?

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[Finest Racing]

Installed the stingers todays and smeared some epoxy across the rear panel with carbon fiber chips.
Tomorrow I am installing the rudder and expandable foam in the front.
Sunday I hope to epoxy the motor mounts in place.

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[TheShaddix]

Solid progress! To answer your question, the rudder will have no affect on the props, especially at speed. For the rear section I would suggest just flooding it with epoxy and cf bits instead of smearing it over the surface.
Also, when you do the expandable foam, fill your bathtub full of cold water and when the foam is expanding dip the bow into the water to avoid deformation due to heat. Pour foam in 2-3 stages, this way it will look much better. If you mix your second batch too small, it will just sip into the side cracks of the first foam batch and look quite uneven. So it's best to just pour fewer but larger batches and not try to go up to the very top. If you end up pouring too much, do not try to scoop it out! Just let it cure, then cut out the excess.

[Finest Racing]

Thank you for the tips. I did mix the cf in with the epoxy as I was mixing it. Amazing how it cured so quickly when I mixed the cf in it as I was mixing it. I was still able to spread it across the rear evenly.
The bath tub is a neat trick. Thanks.
I figured I would need to do the foam a few times to get the correct amount and to also make it look good.
Thanks again, great advise.

[ls1fst98]

I'd prefer to not use expanding foam and instead use that pink foam sheet insulation cut to fit. So in case you ever needed to make a repair it's easy to remove and gain access

[Finest Racing]

I'd prefer to not use expanding foam and instead use that pink foam sheet insulation cut to fit. So in case you ever needed to make a repair it's easy to remove and gain access

Good point. It would be a challenge to make a repair with the foam. I have been using pool noodles and thought I would try the foam. Thanks for the thought.

[Fella1340]

+1 on not using expanding foam. I dropped my unfinished genesis on the sponson tip and created a small hole. Easy to fix properly and disturbed very little of the painted outside surface. Had it been foamed in it would have been a messy patch job that couldn't be repaired properly. Lots of guys love the foam though. Still mixed reviews of how it stands up over time, many mentions of hull sucking down after a couple years etc.

[Finest Racing]

+1 on not using expanding foam. I dropped my unfinished genesis on the sponson tip and created a small hole. Easy to fix properly and disturbed very little of the painted outside surface. Had it been foamed in it would have been a messy patch job that couldn't be repaired properly. Lots of guys love the foam though. Still mixed reviews of how it stands up over time, many mentions of hull sucking down after a couple years etc.

Thanks, Did not hear about the long term results. I was thinking that the foam would help with strength on a fast boat bouncing on the water. I know that is one idea, with many negative thoughts.

[rickwess]

Once cured, 2 part polyurethane foam is stable. Full size boats use it for mandated floatation requirements. Perhaps if you take it on a plane the drastic change in pressure could affect the air bubbles.

Some people don't distinguish between spray foam and 2 part foam. Run away from spray foam.

[keithbradley]

Once cured, 2 part polyurethane foam is stable. Full size boats use it for mandated floatation requirements. Perhaps if you take it on a plane the drastic change in pressure could affect the air bubbles.

Some people don't distinguish between spray foam and 2 part foam. Run away from spray foam.
Are you 100% sure that there's no way it could shrink or grow over time? Keep in mind that telling someone it's stable could cost them a significant amount of money if you're wrong.

[Fluid]

Several of us have found out the hard way that at least some popular two-part foams are not 100 percent stable. I know that one boat in which I poured foam sold by a popular FE on-line store almost had the deck collapse after sitting in the sun on several days. The foam shrunk and sucked the deck down. Fortunately I was able to slip a hacksaw blade between the foam and deck and cut them apart. The deck eventually rose back to it's original shape - almost. Now when I use foam I use a release agent on the underside of the deck. I can't always keep my boats out of the sun.

[rickwess]

I've talked to the manufacturer, distributor (Composites Canada) as well as the builder of my custom ski boat who has used it for over a decade to meet Coast Guard regulations. I've done as much due diligence as possible before I let the bow of my ski boat to be foamed.

I obviously can't speak to all 2 part foams, but I did the research on this:

http://www.compositescanada.com/product-catalog/resins/product/305-pour-in-place-polyurethane-foam

[Finest Racing]

I did not say in my post that I was using a two part mix. The only time my boats see the sun are when they are running. I would think that would be a few hours a day and when racing maybe 5 to 6 hours. This past season I had a towel over my boat. I noticed that it was cooler then ambient temp.

[kfxguy]

I much rather two part foam. If you.crash and break the hull apart bad enough, your pool noodles or pink foam is all your gonna see floating...so what's the point? Two part foam is going to strengthen the hull and it also sticks to it. Break apart, good chance you'll still be able to get some stuff back besides pool noodles. To each their own tho....

[Finest Racing]

I much rather two part foam. If you.crash and break the hull apart bad enough, your pool noodles or pink foam is all your gonna see floating...so what's the point? Two part foam is going to strengthen the hull and it also sticks to it. Break apart, good chance you'll still be able to get some stuff back besides pool noodles. To each their own tho....

This was my first thought for using the two part foam. I see there are pros and cons to both. I think I will try the two part foam. Fingers crossed. I will post updates and pictures. Thanks everyone.

[kfxguy]

This was my first thought for using the two part foam. I see there are pros and cons to both. I think I will try the two part foam. Fingers crossed. I will post updates and pictures. Thanks everyone.

I guess the way I look at it is, hulls are cheap. Motors, esc's and batteries aren't. I'd rather destroy a hull and have to build the whole boat over but still get my electronics back rather than worry if I can make a repair to it. I'm so picky that a repair would nor be ok with me anyway. I'd rather just start over. But that's just me...and I'll have my electronics....just my .02

[keithbradley]

Several of us have found out the hard way that at least some popular two-part foams are not 100 percent stable. I know that one boat in which I poured foam sold by a popular FE on-line store almost had the deck collapse after sitting in the sun on several days. The foam shrunk and sucked the deck down. Fortunately I was able to slip a hacksaw blade between the foam and deck and cut them apart. The deck eventually rose back to it's original shape - almost. Now when I use foam I use a release agent on the underside of the deck. I can't always keep my boats out of the sun.
Read this post carefully. There's absolutely no reason NOT to follow this advice.

For the record, I thought mine shrunk from the cold here in Michigan. It's possible that any temperature too far on one end of the spectrum could cause issues.

[Fella1340]

Just throwing in pool noodles isn the best solution either. Run two bulkheads on the tunnel floor all the way to the tips then cut closed cell foam to fit the forward area precisely and cap with a header will give you similar flotation qualities to foam. The other benefit being an extremely strong rigid hull that isn't relying on foam for all its strength. It's a lot more work but is also quite satisfying once it's done.
It all depends on your goals, if the hull is a means to achieve 100 plus mph and is considered sacrificial in meeting that goal then foam may be the way to go. If it's something you want to keep for years with no intention of selling then spending the extra time and effort is well worth it.

[tlandauer]

Several of us have found out the hard way that at least some popular two-part foams are not 100 percent stable. I know that one boat in which I poured foam sold by a popular FE on-line store almost had the deck collapse after sitting in the sun on several days. The foam shrunk and sucked the deck down. Fortunately I was able to slip a hacksaw blade between the foam and deck and cut them apart. The deck eventually rose back to it's original shape - almost. Now when I use foam I use a release agent on the underside of the deck. I can't always keep my boats out of the sun.


Read this post carefully. There's absolutely no reason NOT to follow this advice.

For the record, I thought mine shrunk from the cold here in Michigan. It's possible that any temperature too far on one end of the spectrum could cause issues.

I agree, been there, seen it and wished the previous builder/owner didn't do it.

[ray schrauwen]

A full sized boat has a far thicker hull than our models and can deal with some expansion and contraction than our toy boats.
Doby has used hardware store spray foam consisently in all of his boats BUT, he is very slow, patient and cautious when using it a little bit at a time. I used 2 part foam in a Titan 33 and the deck sucked in really badly. Sometimes the problem is the product, sometimes it's the user. Personally I don't like it



I've talked to the manufacturer, distributor (Composites Canada) as well as the builder of my custom ski boat who has used it for over a decade to meet Coast Guard regulations. I've done as much due diligence as possible before I let the bow of my ski boat to be foamed.

I obviously can't speak to all 2 part foams, but I did the research on this:

http://www.compositescanada.com/product-catalog/resins/product/305-pour-in-place-polyurethane-foam

[Finest Racing]

Sounds like a release agent is needed to use a two part foam. Thanks for all the hands on info.

[ls1fst98]

I much rather two part foam. If you.crash and break the hull apart bad enough, your pool noodles or pink foam is all your gonna see floating...so what's the point? Two part foam is going to strengthen the hull and it also sticks to it. Break apart, good chance you'll still be able to get some stuff back besides pool noodles. To each their own tho....

id love to see a boat with 2 part wreck as bad as you state above and you be able to use your electronics after. in that kind of wreck, 2 part of pink foam is not going to save it.

[Finest Racing]

I have been trying different motors. I have tried the Castle 1515 2200KV, 1517 2650KV and now TP 4070 2200KV. When trying the Castle 1515 I was only able to hit 55mph. When I tried the 1517 I was able to go 57mph. Both motors where propped to there limit using a temp gun after making 4 minute runs. When I tried the TP last week, I hit 62mph and then the flex went swimming. I think I have more in it. I was using a three blade X446 with the TP. With the Castle motors, I was using two blade X props. I will try X448 two blade prop when I have my parts.

[kfxguy]

I have been trying different motors. I have tried the Castle 1515 2200KV, 1517 2650KV and now TP 4070 2200KV. When trying the Castle 1515 I was only able to hit 55mph. When I tried the 1517 I was able to go 57mph. Both motors where propped to there limit using a temp gun after making 4 minute runs. When I tried the TP last week, I hit 62mph and then the flex went swimming. I think I have more in it. I was using a three blade X446 with the TP. With the Castle motors, I was using two blade X props. I will try X448 two blade prop when I have my parts.


I'm currently tuning one myself. It's a single but still. The props like to be high up and have some positive in the prop angle. I got 63.1 out of it but it's got more. Just gotta figure out what it wants. It seems to be hard to get the nose up some.

[Finest Racing]

I'm currently tuning one myself. It's a single but still. The props like to be high up and have some positive in the prop angle. I got 63.1 out of it but it's got more. Just gotta figure out what it wants. It seems to be hard to get the nose up some.

I read your write up about the KBB Mono build. I race in NAMBA and I am searching for another P Mono boat. I see how you have been able to hit high mph but how does it turn? There are about three or four mono's I am looking at. The Cheetah can run a full oval (NAMBA race) at full throttle. Amazing how it handles.

I wish the flex did not let loose on me. I was hoping to try different props to see what the limits are. The old motors I had flex/cable savers. New motors have 8mm shafts. The new couplers reduced the space for the flex savers. I will trim the flex tube for them to fit so I am not going through this again.

[kfxguy]

I read your write up about the KBB Mono build. I race in NAMBA and I am searching for another P Mono boat. I see how you have been able to hit high mph but how does it turn? There are about three or four mono's I am looking at. The Cheetah can run a full oval (NAMBA race) at full throttle. Amazing how it handles.

I wish the flex did not let loose on me. I was hoping to try different props to see what the limits are. The old motors I had flex/cable savers. New motors have 8mm shafts. The new couplers reduced the space for the flex savers. I will trim the flex tube for them to fit so I am not going through this again.



I mainly built it for straight speed but it will turn decent. Keep in mind I have small turn fins on it that are about right for a 26" mono. I don't have many turning videos but here you go.


http://youtu.be/JJj2JpZB9BY

[kfxguy]

This is 50 something and not letting off towards the end. I'll reiterate tho, small turn fins and they are swept back


http://youtu.be/KYAGs7KvPtk

[Finest Racing]

Excellent running boat. I would be racing with other boats which will cause rough conditions. Thank you for posting the videos. I need to think if this would be the best boat for racing.

[kfxguy]

Excellent running boat. I would be racing with other boats which will cause rough conditions. Thank you for posting the videos. I need to think if this would be the best boat for racing.

I would highly consider it for what your doing. I have some other videos of it running around about 60 mph and turning well. It can do much better but I had a short rudder on it, drag prop, trim tabs way far into the middle and short turn fins. I guarantee it's got a lot of potential. It has some weight to this hull too, it's very heavily and nicely laid up.

[Bduncan]

running 86 here on 8s. http://youtu.be/8rpnSrjC_-8

[Finest Racing]

Nice. To run in P Offshore, I need to be running 4s. I went out today using HobbyWing 180A on each motor. They went into overload. The red light was flashing when I opened her up. Everything was below 90 degrees. I am running TP 4070 2Y motors - 2200kv, with three blade 446 props. After about two minutes she will have this problem. The ESC are version 3 (V3). Strange how both are doing it. I plan on going back out tomorrow and trying again.

I am amazed how it is able to turn on a dime at full throttle like a slot car. I think I found the sweet spot for the batteries. This was my first time out with the ESC's. I hope I can get them to work. A twin drive I need to buy two of everything. LOL

When I figure the problem with the ESC's, I would like to play with props. Try a blade and three blades. What the heck, its only money. I can't take it with me. LOL

[kfxguy]

You are using the wrong props and it was probably running very wet. If both escs are going into protection I truly find it hard to believe they wer 90 degrees unless:

1) they were 90 degrees Celsius
Or
2) you waited a while to check the temps and your in a freezing cold climate.

Chances of having two defective units at one time are slim to none. Maybe you had it go into battery cutoff early. Try moving the cutoff to the lowest voltage selection and make sure it's on auto calculate cells. When you get tired of wasting time and money on props, pm me and I'll tell you what you need. :)

[rayzerdesigns]

Nice. To run in P Offshore, I need to be running 4s. I went out today using HobbyWing 180A on each motor. They went into overload. The red light was flashing when I opened her up. Everything was below 90 degrees. I am running TP 3670 motors - 2200kv, with three blade 446 props. After about two minutes she will have this problem. The ESC are version 3 (V3). Strange how both are doing it. I plan on going back out tomorrow and trying again.

I am amazed how it is able to turn on a dime at full throttle like a slot car. I think I found the sweet spot for the batteries. This was my first time out with the ESC's. I hope I can get them to work. A twin drive I need to buy two of everything. LOL

When I figure the problem with the ESC's, I would like to play with props. Try a blade and three blades. What the heck, its only money. I can't take it with me. LOL

I would venture to say with a 36x70 motor a 3 blade 46 is a tad too much prop

[kfxguy]

I would venture to say with a 36x70 motor a 3 blade 46 is a tad too much prop

Agreed not to mention the characteristics of that prop doesn't work well with that hull.

[keithbradley]

Agreed not to mention the characteristics of that prop doesn't work well with that hull.

Based on what?

[Finest Racing]

Hello, sorry for the delay in responding and thank you so much for the suggestions. I think I found some problems. When I checked the ESC, they were not programmed for full throttle. I did do this at the lake individually. Explains why the temps were low and it shut down. I ran the boat again and I had left side ESC went in to protection mode. The temp was 125 degrees. I installed a dual pick up rudder to feed the left side and to continue using the twin pick up from the bottom for the right side. I went back to the lake to try and I had a problem with two battery packs. I called it a day and winter came. I will going this Monday 2-22-2016 to test. When I was able to make runs without any issues, I was able to hit 58 mph using the three blade 46mm. Turning at full throttle as if I was running a NAMBA race. I know, no wake. The water was was not smooth, it was a little rough.
Keith, I will send you a pm on your thoughts about a prop. I have been trying two blade and three blade props. I am looking to run P-Offshore and also P Cat. I am sure I will need to swap props for each class. Thanks and I will make a post Monday.

[TRUCKPULL]

Rob

You said that you have 3670 2200kv motors??
I checked the TP web site NON their.
They do have 4070 2200kv motors.
You also state that your motors have 8mm shafts.
I don't think anybody makes a 36mm motor with a 8mm shaft.

Another question
I am also running a twin Cat for "P" Offshore (NAMBA)
With a 4 min race plus a full mill lap and a Max of 10,000mAMP's onboard (2 - 4S -5000 packs)
you need to keep your AMP draw at or below 60A average per motor to be able to run for 4 1/2 min.

446/3 seems to be too much prop to be below 60A's per motor.

I think this is why you are hitting the low voltage cutoff at about 2 min.

Larry

[Finest Racing]

I do have the TP 4070 2Y 2200kv motors, sorry for the mistake.

Thanks Larry. I found some problems going through the programming. I did notice the full throttle was not set (again). Not sure why I need to keep resetting the full throttle. I am testing tomorrow. I installed two blade 448 props to start with. They spin out. I will post results. Thanks

[Finest Racing]

I went out for the first time since November 2015. I I had the timing at zero, 448 two blade props and I went 59.2 mph. I found out that the first set of batteries were the only set that had a 100% charge. I charged all the batteries a week before. Not sure why all dropped off but the Nano Tech's. I will charge the batteries and try again next Monday.

[TRUCKPULL]

You are running a "Y" wind motor
Why would you set the timing at 0 ????

That motor should be set a 12 Minimum and about 20 Max.
I would say 14 or 15 would be fine.

Larry

[Finest Racing]

You are running a "Y" wind motor
Why would you set the timing at 0 ????

That motor should be set a 12 Minimum and about 20 Max.
I would say 14 or 15 would be fine.

Larry

I had the timing at zero because when I had it at 15 (factory) the ESC was going into default mode. I also noticed other problems. Next time out I will have the boat set up the same with the timing set at 15. I ordered new battery's, current battery's will be topped off the night before. I have no reason for a Y motor. I bought this motor due to the size thinking that it would be efficient. My options with this size were 1650 5D, 2050 4D and the 2200. When I was doing my research on the winds, it became and overload for the brain. LOL
I am going out Monday to test. My goals are to be able to run with timing at 15 degrees, be able to run 4 minutes (running hard) with cool temps. Play with props.

[modvp55]

I have a similar yet different set up. I am running 40x82 2000 KV sss motors. Since they are a d wind timing is at 0 degrees. Our club only runs 4 lap races so that allows for a little more aggressive set up. For this time of year when the water is cool I have run X452 with good results, temps are safe all around. In summer when the water here reaches 80 plus I run X450 to be safe. Props are worked including a minor blade reshape. Both props run nice and free with neutral trim settings. Last week I had 54% left in the batteries after the race but was able to take the last lap easy since had a good lead.

[TRUCKPULL]

Your choice of a "Y" wind is GOOD
They are more efficient then a "D" wind
But there is still a big problem with your AMP draw, to be able to run 4 1/2 minutes.
With only one 4S 5000 pack per motor allowed in NAMBA
As I have mentioned before you need your average AMP draw for each motor below 60 Amp's, or you will KILL your batteries.

I run a twin cat in "P" Offshore
Motors are only 3674 - 1700kv "Y" winds
Props are 442/2 blade, with 2 - 4S - 5000 packs onboard , I run for 4 1/2 minutes and my packs are down to 18%
This works out to 60 Amps per motor average
I am testing with 440/3 blades, the Amp draw is working out to be about 65A average, so I need to cut them a little.

In the attachment you will see that running for 4min. 20 sec. at 60 Amp's --- Your batteries are at your lower limit before you KILL them

Larry

[Finest Racing]

I have a similar yet different set up. I am running 40x82 2000 KV sss motors. Since they are a d wind timing is at 0 degrees. Our club only runs 4 lap races so that allows for a little more aggressive set up. For this time of year when the water is cool I have run X452 with good results, temps are safe all around. In summer when the water here reaches 80 plus I run X450 to be safe. Props are worked including a minor blade reshape. Both props run nice and free with neutral trim settings. Last week I had 54% left in the batteries after the race but was able to take the last lap easy since had a good lead.

Thanks for the input. I think testing is the key, but also having the correct size motors will help.


Your choice of a "Y" wind is GOOD
They are more efficient then a "D" wind
But there is still a big problem with your AMP draw, to be able to run 4 1/2 minutes.
With only one 4S 5000 pack per motor allowed in NAMBA
As I have mentioned before you need your average AMP draw for each motor below 60 Amp's, or you will KILL your batteries.

I run a twin cat in "P" Offshore
Motors are only 3674 - 1700kv "Y" winds
Props are 442/2 blade, with 2 - 4S - 5000 packs onboard , I run for 4 1/2 minutes and my packs are down to 18%
This works out to 60 Amps per motor average
I am testing with 440/3 blades, the Amp draw is working out to be about 65A average, so I need to cut them a little.

In the attachment you will see that running for 4min. 20 sec. at 60 Amp's --- Your batteries are at your lower limit before you KILL them

Larry

Thanks Larry, looks like I need to prop down to be more efficient. I am still baffled of how it ran for about 2 minutes with the 448 props with the heating issues and the batteries were at 80%. I checked the battery's when I arrived home. I think the other battery's were not charged 100%, possibly adding to the problems. If I need to replace the motors to correct the problem, I will. I would like to try to see if I can get them to work, be efficient and to be competitive. With the boat running 59mph, that is where I need to be to run with the others in the class - especially P Offshore. Thanks again Larry. I have new battery's arriving tomorrow and hope to do more testing on Monday. If I remember correctly, we run laps. Our classes are a lap race with time.

[Finest Racing]

I have a thought, thinking out loud (typing). What if I replace the ESC's with Swordfish Pro+ 240? Yes, it be costly $501.28. It would cost less to replace the motors. I understand how the chart is showing the results. Just a thought.

[TRUCKPULL]

I have a thought, thinking out loud (typing). What if I replace the ESC's with Swordfish Pro+ 240? Yes, it be costly $501.28. It would cost less to replace the motors. I understand how the chart is showing the results. Just a thought.

ROB

Changing ESC's is not going to lower your AMP draw.

The 180,s should be fine.

Just make sure they are programed correctly.

I did have trouble programing and syncing mine to my radio.
I had my ESC,s wired so that each one saw 4S2P -power (this way the two batteries stay equal, instead of the outside motor pulling the outside battery way down)
I had to disconnect the two black wires between the two ESC,s
Then program them separately and sync them to my radio.
Instead of soldering the two black wires back together, I connected them with a plug.
So now when I want to change the program, I can just unplug them from each other,
The ESC;s will not program correctly if connected in parallel.

Larry

[RayR]

If I remember correctly, we run laps. Our classes are a lap race with time.

This is confusing, are you running 6 lap sprints or 4 minute Offshore heats? Is this the class called "P Sprint Cat" in NAMBA District 1?

[Finest Racing]

This is confusing, are you running 6 lap sprints or 4 minute Offshore heats? Is this the class called "P Sprint Cat" in NAMBA District 1?

This is in NAMBA District 1. P Offshore is a 6 minute heat. P cat is a 5/6 lap race. running.

I decided to purchase two new motors verse two new ESC. I bought two TP 4050 2200kv motors. Total amp draw will be sufficient for my ESC's.

Sorry for and confusion.

[TRUCKPULL]

This is in NAMBA District 1. P Offshore is a 6 minute heat. P cat is a 5/6 lap race. running.

I decided to purchase two new motors verse two new ESC. I bought two TP 4050 2200kv motors. Total amp draw will be sufficient for my ESC's.

Where id you find these,( TP 4050 2200kv motors)???
TP does not list them.

Larry

[RayR]

Where id you find these,( TP 4050 2200kv motors)???
TP does not list them.

Larry

larry,

they are not on the list. Look here:

http://www.tppowerusa.com/motors/in-stock/tp-4050-2200-kv

[TRUCKPULL]

This is in NAMBA District 1. P Offshore is a 6 minute heat. P cat is a 5/6 lap race. running.

I decided to purchase two new motors verse two new ESC. I bought two TP 4050 2200kv motors. Total amp draw will be sufficient for my ESC's.

Sorry for and confusion.

ROB

Nice find on the 4050 - 2200Kv
They are still a "Y" wind -GOOD
and the No-load current is almost 1/2 of the 4070 motor.

Larry

[Finest Racing]

Thanks Larry,
I need to share the credit with a friend. My friend Ken is building a Cheetah single. We were exploring our options since the 4070 had to much draw. I went to the TP website since most places were either out of stock or had limited sizes. TP is located in NJ, I was charged sales tax. LOL I ordered three motors. I think RayR has been communicating with Ken on his build. Ken thought this would be a good motor for his single build. I will need to order 5mm collets, the 4070 motors have 8mm shafts. I think this is all starting to come together. LOL Now I need to decide on props. I would like to buy a couple of props to give me a base line in which directions I need to go. Like we all know, everything is double. I will check to see what I have, I think I have a pair two blade 445's.

[RayR]

This is in NAMBA District 1. P Offshore is a 6 minute heat. P cat is a 5/6 lap race. running.

I decided to purchase two new motors verse two new ESC. I bought two TP 4050 2200kv motors. Total amp draw will be sufficient for my ESC's.

Sorry for and confusion.

6 minute Offshore heats? You will run out of battery capacity if you run those motors.

Also, this must be a new class? As of last years results there was no full P-Offshore class in District 1, just P-Limited.

[Finest Racing]

If we have enough to make a class for P Offshore, we will run. No points - all fun. The idea is to see who is the last man standing. When I had my Geico, I would chug in. At the point where I would almost need to be rescued.
The Cheetah boat is becoming popular and to see if interest was high enough to have them run. The class is also open to other styles meeting rules. As of last year there are to P mono classes. There is a 1P and a 2P. I made a suggestion over the 2014 winter for this class, many were interested. Also not to loose interest in the original 1P class as it is a budget build class.